Had a 1990 mk 4 escort 1.4, and when I did the cambelt on that a ford mechanic friend advised me to set the cam sprocket 1 tooth past ford's timing mark, the difference it made to the running of the car was amazing, more responsive and used less fuel. Couldn't believe it. Great work, hate torx bolts, horrible things!
We have always changed the water pump and all pullies too. You are a great teacher. The Astra Van is a great van and drives as well as an estate. Mine was a 53 reg. Many miles never a problem. Only replaced with a Vectra SRi V6 and I did 86K miles in 6 months. Never a problem with that either. Actually, front tyres changed at 70K miles and swapped from with back for a lot more miles.
Great job sir, I believe the water pump bolts are Alan key size 6-8. Hope this helps anyone else reading this or doing this . But very informative video. Thanks.
Great video mate. Im a self employed sparky and the bearings on my ac compressor failed mid last week. Two days no work. Sourced a new unit and fitted over the weekend with the help of your video.. As i was so deep in anyway i changed the timing belt too. Cheers for the guidance, big thumbs up... V
Really good video. It inspired me to change my own timing belt + water pump on my 2015 insignia. The only difference i really noticed was the water pump came out without moving cam sprocket. Unfortunately my torque wrench snapped when tightening to 25nm. So i tightened to what i thought was appropriate. Reassembled then started it over, very nervous times! I intend on buying another torque wrench and checking all appropriate bolts and their respective tightening instructions at the weekend when i fit engine tray (left off to inspect any possible leaks) Thanks again 👍
Same engine on my Saab93. I done my first TB job on this and them crank markings made me nervous but i had the pin to lock it, no problem there. Mine leaked from the water pump, after stripping it again i noticed a little bur in the block that must of nipped the o ring gasket. Next time i left aux belt off and run it looking for leaks. Im going to cold chisel a new notch in the 9pm location next time im down there as the pin isn't needed. RUclips is a great source of information but sometimes bad, good work!
Great vid..... balls of steel correcting the timing marks. I'm guessing you stood back the first time you started it. Still great video showing all mistakes as well. Not saying "oh no point in filming this for you or I can't get the camera in to show you......best vids on here showing mistakes is what makes vids real life and a lot more valuable.
Just changed the timing kit and water pump again recently and i had a leak after re-installing everything. The 2 bolts on the pump, it's advised to add a little threadlocker (like you have done). I thought this step was solely a precaution against vibration loosening the bolts. So i took a closer look and the left bolt hole is open into the water jacket of the block, wtf, didn't know this. So mine leaked cos i thought "its not really needed" but i now know its ESSENTIAL on the 8v engine. Also after fitting TB and pump, i started the engine minus the serp belt and mount etc to see if all was good this time, and it was, tf. (This will throw a code as maf is disconnected, i cleared it with a cheap code reader. Thought id share my experience relating to this invaluable video!
Thank you so much for this informative video, I just did my first timing belt on 2.0cdti. I struggled putting belt on as it would always spin camshaft sprocket, but using zip ties did the trick. The old marks on mine didn't align at all, so I made my own, and the belt lines perfectly matched which indicates It's timed perfectly, cranked it over 6 times just for sanity check lol. Thank you again!!!!
Great video Martin ! I have a 57 plate Vauxhall Vectra 1.9 cdti 120 bhp ( exact same engine as this ) , I had to pay twice to have the timing belt and water pump done on my car at the start of 2018, the first guy who fitted it had fitted it wrong as it was apparently 2-3 teeth out ( according to second mechanic ) , it would not start after being switched off for at least a minute so had to use easy start to get it to run. The timing belt was removed done by a different mechanic a day or 2 later , it was very lucky no damage was done to the engine
I used to be the master of the Pinto cambelt, my trick was to carefully trim 50% of the cambelt away leaving a good section of teeth exposed, slide on the new belt and do all the down below gubbins to get it to be lined up etc then cut the remainder of the old belt away leaving it free to slide new belt on without having to time it all up, quick whack on the tensioner and done in half the time hehe :D Great vid as always :)
Excellent video, thank you. Doing mine tomorrow on a Saab 9-5 Tid Z19DTH...my crank looks like one tooth off, advanced, but waiting for my timing tool kit to confirm.
Very good video! , very informative and detailed, the gripe I have is why the hell do manufactures use torx bolts, which can chew up very easy, rather than just standard bolts.
"Use a dfferent technique"..? Thought the breaker bar was coming out. Who needs one when you have a perfectly good first hahaha. Thanks for the help man.
Very interesting Martin, wish I had the courage to tackle mine as it's due , but seeing your video reasures me best left to someone qualified like yourself.
for those stubborn or stripped bolts there is a special socket set you can get(I've got a set ) basically they fit over the bolt/nut as normal but the difference is that they have special groves cut into them where they grab the bolt and bite in tight and you can undo them without too much problem,after getting them off it is best to replace them. came in very handy when I changed engine mounts in my 89 camry a some of the bolts had rounded off so I used those sockets to undo the mount .
Had a Leon 1.9 tdi had a vw garage do cambelt the 1st time really hard to start sent it back turns out they didn't time the pump up properly must have been slightly out , second time the pump didn't self prime properly and sucked in air the non vw specialist had car and said pump had failed ,so I diagnosed it myself and bled the injectors myself , I don't think even some garages are any good sometimes if I had another older woukd attempt myself . Good video and you know it's been done properly . Cheers , Steve
Martin Brilliant job done you made it look easy I you should do a check with your local garage the cost of them doing this work then compare your cost witch will include parts only has you saving labour cost Phil in stoke
Not sure why I’m watching this, but dude, I totally said “don’t like that at all” at the same time you did at the 22:00 mark. Ugh I was wincing at that, I know the feeling. Alright off to watch the rest of the video of a repair of a car that they don’t sell in the states
brilliant job there. there will soon be a video up regarding EGR though lol. great video and I like how you didn't edit any troubles you had and showed us how to sort them nice work Martin
Great video Martin . I was cringing over those bolts had visions of the drill and taps coming into play' I am not a big fan of locktite ,I think some people overdo it then you have the problems when trying to remove bolts next time . Well done enjoyed watching the video especially how you got round the awkward bits. I bet it runs a lot smoother now its timed correctly.
He's only just got it so not a lot of driving it apart from bringing it home. I was lucky to get away with it as they were solin and are only supposed to be 25nm.
Nice work Martin, think you got the engine codes mixed up though the one you got the 120HP one is the Z19DT the 150HP one is the Z19DTH. Only know this as I did a fair bit of work on both lol. The 120 is bulletproof though less things go wrong in it that the 150.
Great job Martin I've had many of that experience with incorrect cambelt fitting in my garage mechanic days with bad timing marks makes you wonder how engines run and lucky it hasn't done any damage.
25 past 8 , didn't you 20 to 9 Martin 😉 superb tuturiol as usual . Nice to see the refurb jack make an appearance. You seen those new ecoboost fords the cambelt runs through oil ment to last 150k lifetime of the engine ! Cheers shout me out one Sunday 👍👍👍
Hi Martin, not sure if this is your van but if so worth changing the box fluid (Fuchs titan a good bet) and checking any movement of the stick when engaging the clutch in first, you may already know but the M32 box is a well known problem, bearings are undersized for purpose and take a hammering. They can be changed with the box in place if needs be, just lower it and remove end casing. Good vid cheers
Sometimes on those Torx bolts you can clamp a pair of vice grips on them so it kind of squeezes around the outside of the bolt head so the torx bit doesn't slip and churn the bolt head as you undo
I do miss old intros as well , or perhaps do a new one with all of you in it with the same music as you all looked so young in the original titles , def wont put me off watching if it stays the same thou. 👍
thanks for this video it helped amazingly for doing my zafira 1.9cdti 8v 👍 just curious to how you tensioned the belt as i struggled, i asked a vaux tech he said simply to leaver ageist the idler thats what they do, apparently a special tool is required to turn the tensioner, im not sure however this is what i did in the end,, also just like yours mine was one tooth out, now drives better, better fuel economy, better heater too funnily anough, vast improvement! however i gotta go back in there soon as need to do camshaft end seal, didnt have one to fit sadly and am miles from civilization 😂 but yerhh thanks agen top vidio 5☆
Perfect positioning of the belt and drive teeth etc. Personal I would remove the wrong mark (s). I ould have checked the air filter when you removed it, or at least have checked.
I got the wrong type of crankshaft locking tool at first, sent it back, ordered a new tool and it was a faulty production and gave up, screwed the bolt to the camshaft. with an air nut driver and held back the drive to the Camshaft with a half-inch extender I towards the cylinder head and went to the torque of 120 nm that it should be, it went fine, took a couple of rounds by hand to make sure there was nothing wrong, before the same installation and start-up of the engine
Nice job. Good instructional video. I was going to ask about the missing mirror cover, then door handle, then bumpers missing. Then heard you say he is going to paint it. Another prep video maybe?
The best tip I've seen for replacing the belt is to cut the old belt in half lengthways while it's still on, pull off half the belt, then put the new belt on and cut the rest of the old belt off. Works wonders.
great vid mart ,worked on a lot of Vauxhalls (earlier ones) on the older engines the camshaft pulley used to be a taper fit so you had too lock the camshaft as there was no locating pin. funny you called it a jockey wheel ,I allways knew them as a idler pulleys.oh ps if it was one tooth out it would run like a dog .
nice work mate. love the new intro much more professional looking ... fits in nice with the title graphics too good thing about your vids is you show potential issues somebody might face. .. most how to vids skip over these. looks like the van has had new engine mounts at some stage ;-)
Interesting to watch - I presume the engine was a hard starter one tooth out (and a bit rattly) I've had to put belts back timed different to what was on - it takes a lot of confidence in understanding the principles to not just copy whats there.I guess if you can do two turns you know you've got your thinking right. Renaults are positioned how yours was wrong - maybe whoever did it was used to Renault. Im not a fan of sealant either , nice to see how clean you got it and just used what should be used.
It doesn't matter that the marks don't line up with anything on the casing. You just need to line up the lines on the belts with the marks on the pulleys.
My corsa had damaged bolts on the water pump. They were naughty though, who ever the previous owner took it to. The log book said that the belt had been changed but when I had my mate do it, he saw that it actually had the original belt on. Looked like they gave up on the bolts.
This is the Fiat 1.9 JTD engine, which Vauxhall used. This guide works for both only the engine stabilizer mounts are different and the Fiats use the RIBE bits for several of the bolts.
Top tip: Refill coolant after installing water pump so you can check for leaks before reinstalling the tensioners belts etc.
Had a 1990 mk 4 escort 1.4, and when I did the cambelt on that a ford mechanic friend advised me to set the cam sprocket 1 tooth past ford's timing mark, the difference it made to the running of the car was amazing, more responsive and used less fuel. Couldn't believe it. Great work, hate torx bolts, horrible things!
We have always changed the water pump and all pullies too. You are a great teacher. The Astra Van is a great van and drives as well as an estate. Mine was a 53 reg. Many miles never a problem. Only replaced with a Vectra SRi V6 and I did 86K miles in 6 months. Never a problem with that either. Actually, front tyres changed at 70K miles and swapped from with back for a lot more miles.
Great video, kinda cool you had a problem so we can see how it's handled. you're one hell of a teacher.
Great job sir, I believe the water pump bolts are Alan key size 6-8. Hope this helps anyone else reading this or doing this . But very informative video. Thanks.
Great video mate. Im a self employed sparky and the bearings on my ac compressor failed mid last week. Two days no work. Sourced a new unit and fitted over the weekend with the help of your video.. As i was so deep in anyway i changed the timing belt too. Cheers for the guidance, big thumbs up...
V
Nice one Vince. Cheers.
Really good video. It inspired me to change my own timing belt + water pump on my 2015 insignia. The only difference i really noticed was the water pump came out without moving cam sprocket. Unfortunately my torque wrench snapped when tightening to 25nm. So i tightened to what i thought was appropriate. Reassembled then started it over, very nervous times! I intend on buying another torque wrench and checking all appropriate bolts and their respective tightening instructions at the weekend when i fit engine tray (left off to inspect any possible leaks) Thanks again 👍
Courageous effort and brilliant employment of of the "bigger hammer" theory. Very nice job!
Martin, I must say a very clear and well explained video , well done! I might even have a go myself one day.
Same engine on my Saab93.
I done my first TB job on this and them crank markings made me nervous but i had the pin to lock it, no problem there. Mine leaked from the water pump, after stripping it again i noticed a little bur in the block that must of nipped the o ring gasket. Next time i left aux belt off and run it looking for leaks. Im going to cold chisel a new notch in the 9pm location next time im down there as the pin isn't needed. RUclips is a great source of information but sometimes bad, good work!
Thanks bud.
I send you Martin a big thank you for your useful instructions.I change the timing belt in a Opel zafira 1.9 cdti. Greetings from Athens Greece.👍
You are welcome
Great vid..... balls of steel correcting the timing marks. I'm guessing you stood back the first time you started it. Still great video showing all mistakes as well. Not saying "oh no point in filming this for you or I can't get the camera in to show you......best vids on here showing mistakes is what makes vids real life and a lot more valuable.
Just changed the timing kit and water pump again recently and i had a leak after re-installing everything.
The 2 bolts on the pump, it's advised to add a little threadlocker (like you have done). I thought this step was solely a precaution against vibration loosening the bolts.
So i took a closer look and the left bolt hole is open into the water jacket of the block, wtf, didn't know this. So mine leaked cos i thought "its not really needed" but i now know its ESSENTIAL on the 8v engine.
Also after fitting TB and pump, i started the engine minus the serp belt and mount etc to see if all was good this time, and it was, tf. (This will throw a code as maf is disconnected, i cleared it with a cheap code reader.
Thought id share my experience relating to this invaluable video!
Nice one bud. Cheers
Thank you so much for this informative video, I just did my first timing belt on 2.0cdti. I struggled putting belt on as it would always spin camshaft sprocket, but using zip ties did the trick. The old marks on mine didn't align at all, so I made my own, and the belt lines perfectly matched which indicates It's timed perfectly, cranked it over 6 times just for sanity check lol. Thank you again!!!!
Glad it helped. Well done too.
These kinds of videos make my life a bit happier! Thank you very much Martin, TOPJOB !!!!! Greeting's from the Netherlands.....
Is it all bolts with treadlock are so hard to remove?
Great video Martin !
I have a 57 plate Vauxhall Vectra 1.9 cdti 120 bhp ( exact same engine as this ) , I had to pay twice to have the timing belt and water pump done on my car at the start of 2018, the first guy who fitted it had fitted it wrong as it was apparently 2-3 teeth out ( according to second mechanic ) , it would not start after being switched off for at least a minute so had to use easy start to get it to run.
The timing belt was removed done by a different mechanic a day or 2 later , it was very lucky no damage was done to the engine
What a pain, Glad you got it sorted though.
I used to be the master of the Pinto cambelt, my trick was to carefully trim 50% of the cambelt away leaving a good section of teeth exposed, slide on the new belt and do all the down below gubbins to get it to be lined up etc then cut the remainder of the old belt away leaving it free to slide new belt on without having to time it all up, quick whack on the tensioner and done in half the time hehe :D Great vid as always :)
Yes I remember the pinto well Ian lol
Hey man, great videos!
Do you have one for Astra 1.7 diesel?
Thanks
Proper job Martin as always 👍
Excellent video, thank you. Doing mine tomorrow on a Saab 9-5 Tid Z19DTH...my crank looks like one tooth off, advanced, but waiting for my timing tool kit to confirm.
Very good. I laughed when the coolant peed out. You have lots of patience.
Very good video! , very informative and detailed, the gripe I have is why the hell do manufactures use torx bolts, which can chew up very easy, rather than just standard bolts.
What a great job Martin well done is there nothing you can't do your a very knowledgeable man . Jimmy looks a happy chappie.
"Use a dfferent technique"..? Thought the breaker bar was coming out. Who needs one when you have a perfectly good first hahaha. Thanks for the help man.
Very interesting Martin, wish I had the courage to tackle mine as it's due , but seeing your video reasures me best left to someone qualified like yourself.
I'm not qualified Chris, its the first time on one of these for me.
Top video Martin, proper down to earth bloke with some good mechanical advice 👍🏻
Cheers Will
for those stubborn or stripped bolts there is a special socket set you can get(I've got a set ) basically they fit over the bolt/nut as normal but the difference is that they have special groves cut into them where they grab the bolt and bite in tight and you can undo them without too much problem,after getting them off it is best to replace them.
came in very handy when I changed engine mounts in my 89 camry a some of the bolts had rounded off so I used those sockets to undo the mount .
brilliant mate two many videos out there not good is yours mate thank you again 5 star
Amazing quality video for such a small channel
I always enjoy your videos Martin
Excellent video Martin, again! I can’t believe it. I’m just about to do this job on mine! Brilliant “timing”! Thanks.
Haha, brilliant timing lol see what you did there lol
nice job Martin I used to work with vehicle radiator's and with the colour off the coolant the hole system could do with a flush out
Nice work Martin love the way you take the time explain things in detail. Hope you and the good wife are well?
Thanks Dave, yes, we are fine bud.
Had a Leon 1.9 tdi had a vw garage do cambelt the 1st time really hard to start sent it back turns out they didn't time the pump up properly must have been slightly out , second time the pump didn't self prime properly and sucked in air the non vw specialist had car and said pump had failed ,so I diagnosed it myself and bled the injectors myself , I don't think even some garages are any good sometimes if I had another older woukd attempt myself . Good video and you know it's been done properly . Cheers , Steve
Martin
Brilliant job done you made it look easy I you should do a check with your local garage the cost of them doing this work then compare your cost witch will include parts only has you saving labour cost
Phil in stoke
Nice job, sure am glad the water pump bolts didn’t break, that would have been a disaster. Good save.
Not sure why I’m watching this, but dude, I totally said “don’t like that at all” at the same time you did at the 22:00 mark. Ugh I was wincing at that, I know the feeling. Alright off to watch the rest of the video of a repair of a car that they don’t sell in the states
Another good video and great close up footage and explanations. Perfect for the home do it your selfer. Keep them coming
Thanks 👍
brilliant job there. there will soon be a video up regarding EGR though lol. great video and I like how you didn't edit any troubles you had and showed us how to sort them nice work Martin
Great job Martin, very informative and detailed view of changing the belts and water pump. Look forward to more great videos.
Cheers, Jeff.
Cheers Jeff
Hi martin..
BIG THNKS..just followed your vid and have changed my cam belt and bits .. fab vid cheers
Well done Mark.
Del boy would be proud!!
Brilliant Martin, fantastic channel- learning so much from you. Keep it up. Tom
Thanks Tom
nice one martin good job there always better safe than sorry with timing belts .
Good idea to use the tie strap to hold and stop the belt from moving
Well done mate was worth watching
Great video Martin . I was cringing over those bolts had visions of the drill and taps coming into play' I am not a big fan of locktite ,I think some people overdo it then you have the problems when trying to remove bolts next time . Well done enjoyed watching the video especially how you got round the awkward bits. I bet it runs a lot smoother now its timed correctly.
He's only just got it so not a lot of driving it apart from bringing it home. I was lucky to get away with it as they were solin and are only supposed to be 25nm.
Nice work Martin, think you got the engine codes mixed up though the one you got the 120HP one is the Z19DT the 150HP one is the Z19DTH. Only know this as I did a fair bit of work on both lol. The 120 is bulletproof though less things go wrong in it that the 150.
This is the 120 so I got that bit right lol
Great job Martin I've had many of that experience with incorrect cambelt fitting in my garage mechanic days with bad timing marks makes you wonder how engines run and lucky it hasn't done any damage.
Yes, it seemed to be running fine but it just shows you Nick.
Great vid Martin 👍 top job on the cambelt
Thanks Jamie
This vid will help so many folks.. great share man !
25 past 8 , didn't you 20 to 9 Martin 😉 superb tuturiol as usual . Nice to see the refurb jack make an appearance. You seen those new ecoboost fords the cambelt runs through oil ment to last 150k lifetime of the engine ! Cheers shout me out one Sunday 👍👍👍
Good Job Martin and well explained.
Great video Martin, gives me the push to do mine on the Alfa (similar engine).Thanks again
Hi Martin, not sure if this is your van but if so worth changing the box fluid (Fuchs titan a good bet) and checking any movement of the stick when engaging the clutch in first, you may already know but the M32 box is a well known problem, bearings are undersized for purpose and take a hammering. They can be changed with the box in place if needs be, just lower it and remove end casing. Good vid cheers
Great vid as always but that is the Z19DT engine, The Z19DTH is the 16 valave 150 bhp version :)
Great video Martin. It's like watching Wheeler Dealers. :)
Runs sweet as a nut. Another job well done Martin. Great video.
Very well explained , love it
Thank you 🙂
Great video as normal Martin hope Sharon had a lovely birthday😊
Yes she did Col, thanks
great video as always Martin
top man, this will make doing my saab 93 easier .
Sometimes on those Torx bolts you can clamp a pair of vice grips on them so it kind of squeezes around the outside of the bolt head so the torx bit doesn't slip and churn the bolt head as you undo
Please bring back the old intro Martin 😊 I do miss it! Brilliant stuff though 👍
Yes me to
I preferred the old intro too.
I do miss old intros as well , or perhaps do a new one with all of you in it with the same music as you all looked so young in the original titles , def wont put me off watching if it stays the same thou. 👍
thanks for this video it helped amazingly for doing my zafira 1.9cdti 8v 👍 just curious to how you tensioned the belt as i struggled, i asked a vaux tech he said simply to leaver ageist the idler thats what they do, apparently a special tool is required to turn the tensioner, im not sure however this is what i did in the end,, also just like yours mine was one tooth out, now drives better, better fuel economy, better heater too funnily anough, vast improvement! however i gotta go back in there soon as need to do camshaft end seal, didnt have one to fit sadly and am miles from civilization 😂 but yerhh thanks agen top vidio 5☆
Well done bud.
Perfect positioning of the belt and drive teeth etc. Personal I would remove the wrong mark (s). I ould have checked the air filter when you removed it, or at least have checked.
Another great video Martin, I love this type of video that you put out, I always look forward to seeing your videos. All the best. Steve. Shared 😉
Thanks Steve.
Don't you have use the locking tools to set it .or is just a case as long as the 2 marks line up your good to go ??
I got the wrong type of crankshaft locking tool at first, sent it back, ordered a new tool and it was a faulty production and gave up, screwed the bolt to the camshaft. with an air nut driver and held back the drive to the Camshaft with a half-inch extender I towards the cylinder head and went to the torque of 120 nm that it should be, it went fine, took a couple of rounds by hand to make sure there was nothing wrong, before the same installation and start-up of the engine
Nice job. Good instructional video. I was going to ask about the missing mirror cover, then door handle, then bumpers missing. Then heard you say he is going to paint it. Another prep video maybe?
He's so busy Bri, and so am I so no time to film the prep on those i'm afraid.
Have you got a video on how to clean the egr valve mate?
Great job 👌👍,I've got a insignia 2.0 ecoflex diesel,it is similar like the Vectra ???
The best tip I've seen for replacing the belt is to cut the old belt in half lengthways while it's still on, pull off half the belt, then put the new belt on and cut the rest of the old belt off. Works wonders.
No good when the water pump lives behind it mark
retrorestore yes, like I said, just replacing the belt.
great vid mart ,worked on a lot of Vauxhalls (earlier ones) on the older engines the camshaft pulley used to be a taper fit so you had too lock the camshaft as there was no locating pin. funny you called it a jockey wheel ,I allways knew them as a idler pulleys.oh ps if it was one tooth out it would run like a dog .
Same thing Pete. One tooth out can make them a pig to start when warm as well.
nice work mate. love the new intro much more professional looking ... fits in nice with the title graphics too
good thing about your vids is you show potential issues somebody might face. .. most how to vids skip over these.
looks like the van has had new engine mounts at some stage ;-)
Yes, they were changed by the last owner not long ago.
How did he turn the camshaft without the belt moving to fix the one tooth out thanks
Slacken the belt and turn the crank.
Ok thanks for reply 👍
I like Jimmy's screwdriver door handle that looks like a job for another video
great vid Martin saved a few quid doing yourself.. atb Steve
very informative as usual martin and very helpful really enjoy m8
Never ever ever change the timing belt on a VX CDTi without changing the water pump!
Never ever not change the water pump on any car when doing timing belt false economy
@@john-vh1hz exactly, the only time you can getaway with leaving it is if it’s run by the auxiliary belt .
well done martin great vid
Martin what signs do you get if the timing belt or water pump is on his way out to keep my eye on
No signs with the belt. Water pump can leak or get noisey.
Very interesting vid mate thanks martin
Thanks John
Interesting to watch - I presume the engine was a hard starter one tooth out (and a bit rattly) I've had to put belts back timed different to what was on - it takes a lot of confidence in understanding the principles to not just copy whats there.I guess if you can do two turns you know you've got your thinking right. Renaults are positioned how yours was wrong - maybe whoever did it was used to Renault. Im not a fan of sealant either , nice to see how clean you got it and just used what should be used.
Very well explianed Martin, thank you
Brilliant video thanks very much
Thanks bud.
Hi Martin did you use a socket to move bottom crank to 9pm position! At all wanna do mine save myself a few quid
Yes Shane. Cheers
Martin
Good job, hope jimmys going to paint the bump strips and put a nice set of alloys on 👍
Nice job! Martin Great vid
Great video well explained
Do you all have vice grips plyers over there? You could have used a vice grip to get those bolts loosened.
Yes I do but I think they were too tight for that.
'When in doubt-give it a clout' lol
Excellent video 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Great work
Good job Martin where is the door handle
Jimmy took them off and the bumper to paint them.
It doesn't matter that the marks don't line up with anything on the casing. You just need to line up the lines on the belts with the marks on the pulleys.
Nice one Martin.
My corsa had damaged bolts on the water pump. They were naughty though, who ever the previous owner took it to. The log book said that the belt had been changed but when I had my mate do it, he saw that it actually had the original belt on. Looked like they gave up on the bolts.
Oh dear, that's terrible.
This is the Fiat 1.9 JTD engine, which Vauxhall used. This guide works for both only the engine stabilizer mounts are different and the Fiats use the RIBE bits for several of the bolts.
Phenomenal video 👌