I've just done this same job on my 11 plate Astra 2.0 CDTI. It had the original GM timing belt, and the tensioner indicator was pointing at the slot not the hole. I lined the new pointer up with the centre of the hole. As a side note, the pully on the fuel pump doesn't need to be locked or even lined up, all it does it produce the fuel pressure, it's not part of the timing cycle. As long as the camshaft pully is locked, and the crankshaft is lined up and doesn't move it's all good.
A word to the wise. Always replace the bottom pulley and bolt when doing a timing belt on these A20DTH engines. They're known for slipping and sheering the forged on keyway at the back of the pulley. The parts are cheap, even from main agent, the only issue is that the bolt is torqued to 380ft/lb! And it's left hand thread, meaning most cheap torque wrenches won't work backwards🙄. For removal a large air impact wrench is recommended. For refitting you will also need to either buy a crankshaft holding tool, which fits onto the pulley to stop it rotating, or you can make one using your old pulley as a pattern. I really can't stress enough how important it is to change both the bolt and the pulley. I've come across several of these engines where the timing has been out because of pulley slipping on the crank, in one case far enough for pistons to hit valves. Another recommendation. If you have the engine out like this, replace the oil pump pickup pipe seal. This is known for going brittle and cracking with age leading to the engine being starved of oil. The seal lives between the oil pump and the sump which has the pickup pipe built into it. Replacing it means removing the sump which is a mare in the car as two of the bolts holding it on are inside the bell housing, which of course means unbolting the gearbox so you can slide it off far enough to reach these two bolts that sit behind the flywheel 🥺. Again it's something I would strongly recommend anyone with that engine get done. By the time you start getting low oil pressure warnings on the dash during start ups the damage is already significant! Again I've seen plenty of seized A20 engines for exactly this reason.
Does this also apply to the A20DTE engine? I was planning on perform a cam belt replacement on my friends car this weekend with 148000km on it and just now have seen your comment and I am not sure what to do.
Thank you for a quick response! I’m probably gonna change it, only issue I’m having is how I’m gonna torque the bolt to spec. My torque wrench only goes up to 350nm/260lb/ft..
@@sinaniii That is probably the hardest part! I advise that you first get hold of a locking tool for the crank. You will be putting a hell of a pull on so make sure you have it locked up properly. There are two ways to do it but both are tricky while the engine is in the vehicle due to access. First way is to remove the starter motor and fit a toothed type locking tool onto the ring gear. The second method is to make or buy a tool that will fit over the toothed timing belt drive sprocket that you hold in place using the four bolts that hold the drive belt pulley on. You will then need to find a big long piece of pipe to slide over the tool so that you can counter the rotation while undoing the main bolt at the center, which as mentioned is left hand thread. Undoing the crank bolt is an achievement in itself, they are usually extremely tight after they've been on a while. You need a good powerful impact wrench ideally, or a 3/4" socket set and a long sturdy piece of steel pipe, but you'll need the car up on a proper car ramp if you try to do it like that so you can get a swing on it. You'll be amazed how spring there is in everything when you start putting that much pull on it! 😁. Impact wrench wise I've found that the DeWalt DCF900 will usually takes them out (not always) , whereas my Aircat 1250k fails most of the time. Both of these guns were at one time the most powerful 1/2" guns available! Torquing the bolt down is another thing. By rights you need a proper torque wrench, but finding one that will work on left hand threads at that spec is tricky. You can buy digital ones that you use with a big breaker bar that work both directions, but they are a bit pricey. I'm lucky in that I have the use of a big snap on digital torque wrench that's for doing truck wheel nuts at the local garage, but I have done these crank bolts without a torque wrench at all in the past and they've been fine. The bolt itself is a very fine thread, so feels a bit slow to start taking a load, but eventually you can tell when it's getting to where it needs to be, it will suddenly just bite down and become very hard to torque down any further. If you really want to make sure just put a dab of the weaker locktite on it, but do make sure it's torqued down enough or after a while the sprocket can start to move and eventually snap the moulded keyway, possibly killing the engine. Best of luck anyway. Regards
Pro tip...get a small piece of hose or something that will fit between the belt and the lower housing below the crankshaft pully. Put the belt on the crankshaft pulley first and stuff the pieces of hose in the small gap and it will hold the belt in place as you line everything else up. The service manual calls for 25 Nm final torque on the tensioner pully bolt.
Hi, I know you deal with lots of these engines, so you are probably right, but Ive just replaced the timing belt kit and waterpump on the same engine but in a 2013 astra. I was led to understand that the pointer on the tensioner should point to the little hole just above the slot where the tensioner slides on the "nipple" as you call it. Have I tightened the belt too much?
@@KamilJan95s Hi, no, I'm still not sure, no-one got back to me. I've also looked in the Haynes manual which also isn't very clear. It just says, "move the adjusting lever on the tensioner until the tensioner pointer is aligned with the mark on the backplate." A bit vague, but I'm guessing that the mark is the little hole. Hope this helps you.
Brilliant video, I have a 2017 B Insignia Tourer Turbo D B20DTH Engine: I have had a look but not had much joy as yet with this and there is a bit of history. I have just replaced a broken cam chain and thankfully the car had no other damage, since then I have encountered a P017D Fault code with the engine management light coming on. The car is working perfectly and deffo no over heating so it looks like the sensor. The temp gauge sits at 0 or hard left, when you cancel the code momentarily the gauge goes to the middle as it should and the engine light goes. My question is where is the sensor, I have checked all the plugs etc and cant find anything missing/broken or not plugged up? Any picture or help would be brilliant because after all the work something this simple is doing my nut! Thanks.
I have watched several videos but yours is the best one yet, you don't use locking tools on the engine, another video says that they are not really needed as you can change the cambelt without any, would you say this is the case as I am about to do mine (2.0 diesel) thank you. Joe
I am in the process of changing mine and have royally screwed timing up I’ve even got tdc using screwdriver in cylinder 1 locked cams with the correct pins when reassembled turn engine by hand doesn’t line up, ami just best making sure the lines on the belt (INA) line up on the pulley’s or am I looking at destroying the engine
hello, if the crankshaft makes a full turn and marks together, are the pistons in the correct cycle? How can I get the fuel pump in the right position, the gear has a mark but not on the housing? I can get the camshafts in place with a tool. My belt broke, all the timing is wrong. Thanks in advance. Quick!
Hi did you get yours timed properly as i have same problem, not sure if crank pully is 180 degrees out , not sure fuel pump needs to be timed, can you give me any advise many thanks
@@paulymc5851 I still let the master set everything up. but the timing kit I bought was rusted. the crank must be screwed in place first and then the cams. otherwise, if the piston is up, the valve cannot move. There is also a locking rod for the fuel pump, turn it until it clicks. it is also worth looking for old marks made in the past.
I did a timing belt on 131 vw passat b7, it had a rubber gasket on it, didn't put sealing on it and the water pump leak, clean everything before putting it in and still leaked.
Hi Leon, great video! I'm not a great fan of the sealant either where gasket should do the work, however when I done wet timing belt on my Focus 1.8 tdci I had a an oil leak from metal gasket and coolant leak from water pump gasket 🙈 Was well pissed off as done everything by the book but I think aluminium oxidation must have left enough erosion in surface for fluids to leak. I eventually sorted it by using tiniest bit of Dirko on oil pump gasket and using Wellseal on water pump gasket. Also had to put tiny bit on corners of rocker cover gasket as that was leaking too 🤦♂️ Sorted 😜 But the amount of sealant some people use when it's hanging off everywhere is absolutely ridiculous.
Will they let you figure out the problem with the new/old engine every one seems to blame the oil pickup seal and I've had it end up being a oil bypass valve I have no idea what it bypasses the oil from
Good help is hard to come by so hold on to the newest member of the team. If he works out he might even get to star in a video one day. Cheers for the video.
Its first timd you do that job, 🤔, i gess only with all the marks you made, Crankshaft at 9 ' o clock , if the not are mark on campolly, remove the valvecover and look fore closed valve at cylinder one , the fire order its 1-3-4-2, that all you yoo have controll over
Incorrect tensioner installation!! The tensioner indicator should be pointing at the hole to be tensioned correctly not at the slot.
Correct👍
I've just done this same job on my 11 plate Astra 2.0 CDTI. It had the original GM timing belt, and the tensioner indicator was pointing at the slot not the hole. I lined the new pointer up with the centre of the hole.
As a side note, the pully on the fuel pump doesn't need to be locked or even lined up, all it does it produce the fuel pressure, it's not part of the timing cycle.
As long as the camshaft pully is locked, and the crankshaft is lined up and doesn't move it's all good.
Isn’t he arrow indicator on the tensioner meant to point to the hole stamped on the tensioner not where the slide is ?
You are correct. This tensioner was incorrectly installed.
Yes it should. The example given in the video (three times!) is incorrect.
A word to the wise. Always replace the bottom pulley and bolt when doing a timing belt on these A20DTH engines. They're known for slipping and sheering the forged on keyway at the back of the pulley. The parts are cheap, even from main agent, the only issue is that the bolt is torqued to 380ft/lb! And it's left hand thread, meaning most cheap torque wrenches won't work backwards🙄. For removal a large air impact wrench is recommended. For refitting you will also need to either buy a crankshaft holding tool, which fits onto the pulley to stop it rotating, or you can make one using your old pulley as a pattern. I really can't stress enough how important it is to change both the bolt and the pulley. I've come across several of these engines where the timing has been out because of pulley slipping on the crank, in one case far enough for pistons to hit valves.
Another recommendation. If you have the engine out like this, replace the oil pump pickup pipe seal. This is known for going brittle and cracking with age leading to the engine being starved of oil. The seal lives between the oil pump and the sump which has the pickup pipe built into it. Replacing it means removing the sump which is a mare in the car as two of the bolts holding it on are inside the bell housing, which of course means unbolting the gearbox so you can slide it off far enough to reach these two bolts that sit behind the flywheel 🥺. Again it's something I would strongly recommend anyone with that engine get done. By the time you start getting low oil pressure warnings on the dash during start ups the damage is already significant! Again I've seen plenty of seized A20 engines for exactly this reason.
Does this also apply to the A20DTE engine? I was planning on perform a cam belt replacement on my friends car this weekend with 148000km on it and just now have seen your comment and I am not sure what to do.
@@sinaniii Unfortunately these issues persist with all the A20 series engines, from 2008 all the way up to 2017!
Thank you for a quick response! I’m probably gonna change it, only issue I’m having is how I’m gonna torque the bolt to spec. My torque wrench only goes up to 350nm/260lb/ft..
@@sinaniii That is probably the hardest part! I advise that you first get hold of a locking tool for the crank. You will be putting a hell of a pull on so make sure you have it locked up properly. There are two ways to do it but both are tricky while the engine is in the vehicle due to access. First way is to remove the starter motor and fit a toothed type locking tool onto the ring gear. The second method is to make or buy a tool that will fit over the toothed timing belt drive sprocket that you hold in place using the four bolts that hold the drive belt pulley on. You will then need to find a big long piece of pipe to slide over the tool so that you can counter the rotation while undoing the main bolt at the center, which as mentioned is left hand thread. Undoing the crank bolt is an achievement in itself, they are usually extremely tight after they've been on a while. You need a good powerful impact wrench ideally, or a 3/4" socket set and a long sturdy piece of steel pipe, but you'll need the car up on a proper car ramp if you try to do it like that so you can get a swing on it. You'll be amazed how spring there is in everything when you start putting that much pull on it! 😁. Impact wrench wise I've found that the DeWalt DCF900 will usually takes them out (not always) , whereas my Aircat 1250k fails most of the time. Both of these guns were at one time the most powerful 1/2" guns available!
Torquing the bolt down is another thing. By rights you need a proper torque wrench, but finding one that will work on left hand threads at that spec is tricky. You can buy digital ones that you use with a big breaker bar that work both directions, but they are a bit pricey. I'm lucky in that I have the use of a big snap on digital torque wrench that's for doing truck wheel nuts at the local garage, but I have done these crank bolts without a torque wrench at all in the past and they've been fine. The bolt itself is a very fine thread, so feels a bit slow to start taking a load, but eventually you can tell when it's getting to where it needs to be, it will suddenly just bite down and become very hard to torque down any further. If you really want to make sure just put a dab of the weaker locktite on it, but do make sure it's torqued down enough or after a while the sprocket can start to move and eventually snap the moulded keyway, possibly killing the engine.
Best of luck anyway. Regards
@@Altair885man you are a legend! Thank you so much for the precise explanation and quick response.
Best regards!
Wrong information, the arrow should be lined up with centre of the hole.
Pro tip...get a small piece of hose or something that will fit between the belt and the lower housing below the crankshaft pully. Put the belt on the crankshaft pulley first and stuff the pieces of hose in the small gap and it will hold the belt in place as you line everything else up.
The service manual calls for 25 Nm final torque on the tensioner pully bolt.
Hi, I know you deal with lots of these engines, so you are probably right, but Ive just replaced the timing belt kit and waterpump on the same engine but in a 2013 astra. I was led to understand that the pointer on the tensioner should point to the little hole just above the slot where the tensioner slides on the "nipple" as you call it.
Have I tightened the belt too much?
Did you find out if you overtightened it? I seen the exact same thing that it’s meant to go up to the middle of the hole
@@KamilJan95s Hi, no, I'm still not sure, no-one got back to me. I've also looked in the Haynes manual which also isn't very clear. It just says, "move the adjusting lever on the tensioner until the tensioner pointer is aligned with the mark on the backplate." A bit vague, but I'm guessing that the mark is the little hole. Hope this helps you.
@@stephenclark5941 another RUclipsr got back to me and said autodata says you tension it to the little dot. So I believe you did it the right way
@@KamilJan95s That's good news.
Thanks for your interest and help. Thankyou.
Brilliant video, I have a 2017 B Insignia Tourer Turbo D B20DTH Engine:
I have had a look but not had much joy as yet with this and there is a bit of history.
I have just replaced a broken cam chain and thankfully the car had no other damage, since then I have encountered a P017D Fault code with the engine management light coming on.
The car is working perfectly and deffo no over heating so it looks like the sensor.
The temp gauge sits at 0 or hard left, when you cancel the code momentarily the gauge goes to the middle as it should and the engine light goes.
My question is where is the sensor, I have checked all the plugs etc and cant find anything missing/broken or not plugged up?
Any picture or help would be brilliant because after all the work something this simple is doing my nut!
Thanks.
I have watched several videos but yours is the best one yet, you don't use locking tools on the engine, another video says that they are not really needed as you can change the cambelt without any, would you say this is the case as I am about to do mine (2.0 diesel) thank you. Joe
They don’t have OEM marks on the cam pulley and the crank shaft?
Yes the engine has OEM marks for all pulleys.
I am in the process of changing mine and have royally screwed timing up I’ve even got tdc using screwdriver in cylinder 1 locked cams with the correct pins when reassembled turn engine by hand doesn’t line up, ami just best making sure the lines on the belt (INA) line up on the pulley’s or am I looking at destroying the engine
hello, if the crankshaft makes a full turn and marks together, are the pistons in the correct cycle? How can I get the fuel pump in the right position, the gear has a mark but not on the housing? I can get the camshafts in place with a tool. My belt broke, all the timing is wrong. Thanks in advance. Quick!
Hi did you get yours timed properly as i have same problem, not sure if crank pully is 180 degrees out , not sure fuel pump needs to be timed, can you give me any advise many thanks
@@paulymc5851 I still let the master set everything up. but the timing kit I bought was rusted. the crank must be screwed in place first and then the cams. otherwise, if the piston is up, the valve cannot move. There is also a locking rod for the fuel pump, turn it until it clicks. it is also worth looking for old marks made in the past.
I did a timing belt on 131 vw passat b7, it had a rubber gasket on it, didn't put sealing on it and the water pump leak, clean everything before putting it in and still leaked.
so what was replaced, just the water pump?
Hi Leon, great video!
I'm not a great fan of the sealant either where gasket should do the work, however when I done wet timing belt on my Focus 1.8 tdci I had a an oil leak from metal gasket and coolant leak from water pump gasket 🙈
Was well pissed off as done everything by the book but I think aluminium oxidation must have left enough erosion in surface for fluids to leak.
I eventually sorted it by using tiniest bit of Dirko on oil pump gasket and using Wellseal on water pump gasket.
Also had to put tiny bit on corners of rocker cover gasket as that was leaking too 🤦♂️ Sorted 😜
But the amount of sealant some people use when it's hanging off everywhere is absolutely ridiculous.
Those metal gaskets have been hit and miss for me in the past on the 1.8 tdci, an absolute ballache to redo.
Does the insignia engine make it far enough to have a timing belt interval?
hahahahahahah
@@bodgitandleggitgarage its a great engine block also used in Saab 9-5, Alfa Romeos, Fiats, Suzukis and others
Will they let you figure out the problem with the new/old engine every one seems to blame the oil pickup seal and I've had it end up being a oil bypass valve I have no idea what it bypasses the oil from
@@tobiascat6173 good to know thanks one more pointless over engineered idea to deal with as usual 😉👍
Is it just me or is the ingenium 2.0d a bit soft?
I hope it gets sorted for your customer thanks for the video
Good help is hard to come by so hold on to the newest member of the team.
If he works out he might even get to star in a video one day.
Cheers for the video.
Thanks for showing how to tension it up, most just skip it. Give me a auto tensioner or 6mm alley key all day long😂
BIG thank you!! Awesome explanation. 👌🏻
Sorry but he hasn't got a clue, these belts etc are so easy to do, could do one of those in the car in just over an hour
Its first timd you do that job, 🤔, i gess only with all the marks you made,
Crankshaft at 9 ' o clock , if the not are mark on campolly, remove the valvecover and look fore closed valve at cylinder one , the fire order its 1-3-4-2, that all you yoo have controll over
Super video
Is it zafira car same way to do on them 1.7 cdti or not thank you
Ist wohl, ein zwei Liter Fiat Motor, die sind ziemlich gut.
You guys should start selling your cars to private buyers in other European countries if its legal to do that anyway.
First
Boom
Cheers mate
So many things wrong with this video lol
This guy has no idea what he is doing.
This is one of the easiest belt kits to replace and he can’t even do it.
Please don’t follow this guide.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂