For those flare fittings from the block to the oil cooler/filter and any other fittings of the same type. Need no thread sealer on them. The sealing surface of that type of fitting is the JIC 37.5° or AN 45° flat angle at the end of the fitting, and putting anything on the threads does nothing to seal up the connection. In fact it can create a leak. As a former race mechanic and industrial mechanic I have seen many people do exactly what you did to this fittings and they leaked afterwards after I cleaned all that stuff off of it, and reconnected the fittings, the leaks were gone. Pipe sealant is good for pipe threads from the holes in the block to the fittings themselfs, but not the JIC, or AN end of the fitting to the hoses.
I think his intention was as a thread lock. But yes I have never used sealer on any AN fittings before. But then I have never fitted a detroit 2 stroke to a boat before either.
Agreed. The only place a sealer should be used is on the pipe thread where is screws in to the block. Also thread locker is not required on the flare threads. In my 42 years as an aircraft mechanic we never put thread locker on the fittings. All we use is an assembly lube so we get an accurate reading on the torque and the mating surfaces of the flare do not gall.
It’s not a thread sealer, it’s a thread locker. The point is to keep the fitting from coming loose from vibration. We do this on any AN fuel or oil fittings.
That motor is the heart of the beast and the personalty underway. Well worth being the pain in the wallet. You will have a smile on your face the first time you need it to perform. It's looking great and good to see the community knowledge while we get to watch. James got it spot on with the oil cooler fittings, we just put light oil on the threads to ease in servicing the lines. Thermal expansion cooling and heating need the mechanical assembly to move together so even pressure can be maintained at the seal. Keep up the good work, I think it's going to be the best thing you can do to your boat. Prettiest too lol.
Glad you are paying Attention to the Oil Flow to/from the Filter. When I bought my last Boat, I had the Dealer install Volvo's Remote Oil Filter. Oil Lines were reversed, and at about 120 hrs(2 summers) the Engine sounded like it had Mechanical Lifters. I touched the Oil Filter and it was cold, after 2 hours of 3500 - 4000 rpm. I took it back the Dealer and Explained what I found. Next day the called and said I had guessed correctly. All the bearings, Crankshaft, Camshaft, Cylinders, and Pistons were badly worn. Dealer got a New Long Block from Volvo and replaced it. It has now given me 14 yrs of trouble free use
Thanks for the update Stu... Despite this small setback you are going great guns mate. When she fires up soon I can hear those resounding words from the great Rocky Balboa.... "Yo Adrian ...we did it !!! "
Always something more than you expected isn't it. Good that your doing it right. Last thing you want is to break down at sea. It's coming together nice.
Really just shows that having a specialist is so important to the Finished Engine, Imagine kicking the Detroit in the Guts and hearing the blower reboring its self into the housing, OOOPS, Well caught
I have been concerned about you and your country people, about the fires that are raging not that far away from you. Although our fires do not affect me directly in the middle part of California where I live, even some of the large fires that are several hundred miles to the north, the smoke will drift here and turn the sky milky white and you can smell it. Our news media does not spent but a brief time talking about your fires but with the smoke you showed in this video, make me know that massive destruction is raging not far from where you live. Hopeful you will stay safe and that rains will come soon to put those fires out. Enjoyed another chapter in the rebuilding of you boat and look forward to the next video.
Hey doing it right is never a bad thing, it’ll cost more but in the years ahead when your cruising it you’ll be glad you did. Great Video Stu, every morning I’m checking my mail to see if your here and everyday you are I enjoy it. I’m in the process of putting a new Cummins in my 2008 3500 Dodge Ram 4x4 so I know about huntin parts. Have a great day and stay safe!!!!
A good catch with the blower, it it had been started with rotors rubbing the housings you would be looking for an entire new blower and taking the engine apart again to get the aluminium shavings out of everywhere. They only spin for a few seconds before enough heat is made to expand the rotors and make them tear up the surfaces and lock.
Good work Stu , you remembered my recommendation on using WIA 16TC rods. I could tell by the sound of the molten pool, that you had your amps set correctly. And the absence of splatter too, it’s right amps. Even if you pressure tested it and decided it wasn’t satisfactory, you could still put two more passes around that pipe and it would be totally fine only staggering the stop starts from the previous bead underneath. Another tip, before you start the weld, do a dummy run and make sure you are able to complete the longest possible weld in one go by making sure you have enough lead from the electrode handle and not snag on anything on the ground including your legs and full range of movement for your wrist and elbow to complete the longest possible weld pass going around the pipe or around a right angle corner or square tube to help with less stops and starts and smoother weld contour. Also your welds are looking better too mate . Well done
That are great rods, I don't think I'll ever use anything else again. I do need to get in the habit of doing the dummy run as I often don't start supporting my arms in the right position.
Great advice on making a dummy run. Another bit to add onto it is thinking about clearance for the electrode with a fresh rod or one partially burned down. "Will it fit under that bracket with a half rod or do I need to weld it out in a different order." That one's got me more than once.
Scott Maschino , yeah I know mate , I try not to give out too many trade secrets, as too many amateurs will start looking at chasing my job. I only tell stu coz he’s a good bloke 😉
Good catch on the cracked blower end plate. If you had fired it up with the rotors contacting the housing, you'd have had a very rude surprise. Adrian is a talented mechanic.
17K views in less than a day.... well done! The Dangar Stu Fan Club shows up in force. And thank God for all the Detroit 'gurus' out there. While I think the Detroit Diesel may be the greatest powerplant ever made, it DOES have to be treated with respect(well, some, at least...) Keep up the good work, Stu! Greetings from Florida, USA.
I really enjoy seeing the community of people coming together to share their expertise. People such as Adrian are worth their weight in gold. Of course you pay it forward too Stuart by helping out with the outboard issues. Great job!
You should have shot off an e-mail to Roger Penske. He loves this kind of stuff. And he owns Detroit Diesel . Wear one of his T-shirts, no telling what he would send you . Good catch on that blower. I had one come apart on me many years ago on a 671. it blew the whole housing right off the top of the motor. The repairs were over $3,000.00 . And that was over 30 years ago. Again, great videos ! Keep up the good work !
Getting so close to hearing her roar!!! We all are rooting for ya Stu! Good catch with the blower, not disappointed at all. I think you would have been more disappointed hearing it self destruct when you fired it up. Stay well! Hope everyone is staying safe from the fires.
Just a thought, on the fresh water pipe you made up, a small weld bead on the ends where the hose clamp goes will help prevent the hose from comming off.
Wow are you lucky! At least this guy Adrian caught all that. At least you didn’t have to take it apart in the boat. Better to get it right the first time. Keep it up Stu!
One man's simple fix can drive another nuts. The guy with the Detroit experience might've spent all day trying to get the outboard shifting properly. It's just the nature of the beast and you have to go with it now and again.
I tossed the factory bearing plates and bought some nice billet aluminium ones with much better bearing retainers. Much stronger too. You can get the front and rear ones on eBay for around $100 us each.
You may want to put a "T" on the oil pressure port and plumb in a pressure gauge at the engine. You'll end up needing to start, run, and check engine operation at the engine and not just the pilot house sometime in the future. It's best to do that now before installing the engine in the boat. A small engine control panel at the engine will be very nice to have. Instead of a pressure gauge at the engine you could just put in a low oil pressure switch and light. That would also allow adding an low oil pressure audible alarm that can be heard out on the deck so when you are running the engine while doing something away from the pilot house or at the engine you can be warned you have a serious engine problem. I'd do the same with engine temp as well. Detroit Diesels don't take over temp or low oil pressure condition's at all.
Hey Stu, that is a great job you are doing.. all new parts, its gonna serve you well for many years! Love the Tenacious D tshirt haha, Cheers from Croatia!
That blower shaft drive is the old, original fine-spline setup. At some point in the 80's, they updated them to a coarse spline arrangement, so when yours failed, you would have the privilege of buying not only a new shaft, but also new sprockets to mate up with the coarse splines. I know this, because I had the privilege of sitting in a small town in Western Ohio for 5 days and 4 nights while the parts supplier kept sending the wrong (incompatible) parts to the shop where I had been towed. The owner of the truck had the parts sitting on the shelf back home, and he finally got ticked off and over-nighted them, which he probably should have done 4 days sooner. Once the correct (and matching) shaft and drive and driven sprockets arrived, we were rolling again in short order. To be fair though, even before the update, you would/should have replaced the sprockets anyways, as you wouldn't want to trust the splines anymore once they had stripped out the splines on the shaft. That truck had an 8v-92 in it, and it was a replacement for a big silver-92 that had blown up. The green replacement itself was pretty well whipped by the time I got my hands on it. I've never been much of a fan of the old green leakers, always figured they were man's best invention for converting diesel fuel into noise. But for applications where climbing up mountains with heavy loads isn't the main focus, they're probably suitable powerplants. Not bad motors if you're drifting across the flatlands, but any truck I had with a -71 or a -92, I had to turn off the headlights so that the truck couldn't see the big hills coming up ahead of us.
You've doubled my resolve to carry spares Stan! Fortunately they work pretty well on the ocean where you have a constant load and no big hills to get up. :)
Square hole in blower drive is probably for the mechanical tach drive. I've got the same 4/71 in my boat. Took me a while to find an original AC tach, cable and reduction drive. I'm enjoying your video's and finding the insite invaluable. I've also got a left hand engine and finding most on RUclips are right hand not that it makes much difference.
3:10 you're welcome Stu. Sorry I didn't put enough cold gal on it to keep it looking pretty. I've seen it sitting on your bench a few times. Kept hoping it didn't fall off and break your foot.
You know, Stu, if there weren't any setbacks: a) We wouldn't learn as much, and b) this rebuild would end too soon, my friend. Can't wait to see her cutting through the waves, but in the meantime, getting her ready is fascinating. Thanks for this outstanding series. One of the things on my "Yankee Bucket List" is getting "down under." If that happens, I'll get some cold ones to you for the fridge you installed a few episodes ago. Just save one for me. Keep up the outstanding work.
I'm totally sold. I can't imagine using anything else now. Glad visibility of puddle tool. General 6013 rods and it's all smoke and slag but these you get a really clear view.
Every time I see those Austarc electrodes, i have to google them to see what they are in North America. I am Canadian, but for the most part, we follow AWS. These are 3/32" E7016, which we have, but they are not as common as E7018. Both low Hydrogen and are supposed to be kept in a rod oven at 250 Deg.F once the cellophane sleeve is opened. Interesting!
You might need thread sealant on the bolts into the water jacket on the exhaust manifold. Looks like the holes extend into the jacket at the 3:25 point.
Great work Stu! Not sure if you know already but if you set your camera to 50fps instead of 60 you're gonna get rid of alot of that light flickering because the powergrid use 50hz mate.
Hi Stu, I love your videos...a great blend of two passions...boats and Detroit 2-strokes. I scrolled through almost all the comments and didn't see this mentioned. And by now I'm sure Scott or someone has said this...but for others reading these comments...Detroit 2-stroke engines require CF-2 rated oil. That Turboil is the proper viscosity/weight, but it's CF-4 rated and I don't see that it meets the CF-2 specs. I'm working backwards through the videos, so I know the ending! Great stuff. - best wishes to you!
With a project as complex as yours is Stu it's always 2 steps forward and 1-1/2 steps back... but there is a dim light beginning to show at the end of this long rebuild/refurbishment tunnel.
This is all very well and good, however Johnny saw an error back in episode one when you put a left handed flenagel on a right handed pitman rod. Pull it all apart and start again, Mr K doesn't want the show to end!
these old 2stroke detroits the dipstick was off from factory the reason people pointed this out was when under hard load and after wear was put on them they had to have total oil volume removed aka reduce max fill because of a issue with these engines running away running on theyre own crank case oil due to blow by forcing crank oil into the intake making them run away till they went boom LOL. I think total volume reduction was around 1-1.5 quarts after they were wore in this was common for tow truck service vehicles and dump trucks and school buses and such they removed the oil capacitty to reduce the blowby forcing raw oil into the super charger where it was atomized and turned into raw fuel making them run away and when they went into run away they then started extreme RPM's which caused even more blowby and raw oil to be dumped into super charger aka horrible chain reaction meaning it will scream till it blows LOL.
witness marks on everything when you take it apart is the only way to go. have you thought about puting a compressor on the rear gearcase. would be great if you ever use airbags for salvage lifting.
G’day Stu you’ve done a great job on the engine if nothing else it looks terrific. It’s good you have people like Adrian who know a lot about these engines it’s a bit strange that there is no specs or instructions on how to do things when assembling it, anyway it makes for great viewing all the best John
G'Day Stu,,Mate those oil lines look to be JIC,,No need for loctite as they seal metal to metal on the taper,Some even have bleed of holes for when the fitting is loose,,Just weaps,, before getting to exciting,,AND,,Typical with the hydraulic community,,are measured in 1/16's of an inch,I.E.1/2 inch is really 8/16's..or size 8..I Think,,always used BSP fittings,on most of the gear i had to maintain, Hmm,,TC 16 was the right choice,,how ever would have just warmed pipe and the electrodes, make 's for better weld bond,,Get some of the water in the metal out,less boiled water in weld metal.
Another great video mate, so glad you found the blower issue. Still wondering about that 1 bolt that is either too short or stripped out threads in the block. A coopers to ponder over it might help. Look forward to the follow up. Russ.
I went back and rewatched that portion of the video to make sure I hadn't dozed off when Stu was telling us what was up with that bolt. Stu commented on it in another question about it with this: Dangar Marine 4 hours ago: "I'm going to stick a borescope in next time I'm at the workshop and look. "
Please consider getting a master plumbers opinion on the way you've got the pipe reduction inserted as opposed to butt joining. I've been told that the inserted lip will cause eddys in the flow which not only causes reduced efficiency but over time can cause pin holes through the metal pipe. I'm no expert, just thought I'd make mention of it .🤙🏾😎
Videos are good but the hardest part is sitting through the excessive on screen time you spend. Talk over video and keep it interesting. Thanks for your work.
Stu says to chickens as he steals their egg; "sorry guys, its a fair swap"...your kids for some scraps :)...sorry Stu, couldn't help myself finishing that sentence...now to watch the rest of the video!
Hey Stu did you put some sealer on the bolts and fittings on the water side of the manifold ! Yep your right mate, put the recommended amount of oil in the engine with the filter plus a bit and then cut the dip stick to length !! Great vid thanks mate. Seeya Rob
The 71 series. A world wide proven motor time and time again. It will out last anything manufactured today. Love your commitment to it.
For those flare fittings from the block to the oil cooler/filter and any other fittings of the same type. Need no thread sealer on them. The sealing surface of that type of fitting is the JIC 37.5° or AN 45° flat angle at the end of the fitting, and putting anything on the threads does nothing to seal up the connection. In fact it can create a leak. As a former race mechanic and industrial mechanic I have seen many people do exactly what you did to this fittings and they leaked afterwards after I cleaned all that stuff off of it, and reconnected the fittings, the leaks were gone. Pipe sealant is good for pipe threads from the holes in the block to the fittings themselfs, but not the JIC, or AN end of the fitting to the hoses.
I think his intention was as a thread lock. But yes I have never used sealer on any AN fittings before. But then I have never fitted a detroit 2 stroke to a boat before either.
Agreed. The only place a sealer should be used is on the pipe thread where is screws in to the block. Also thread locker is not required on the flare threads. In my 42 years as an aircraft mechanic we never put thread locker on the fittings. All we use is an assembly lube so we get an accurate reading on the torque and the mating surfaces of the flare do not gall.
It’s not a thread sealer, it’s a thread locker. The point is to keep the fitting from coming loose from vibration. We do this on any AN fuel or oil fittings.
@@hightide9513 No 21:12 shows clearly enough that it is a thread sealer. A Google of their site also shows it as a thread locker.
That motor is the heart of the beast and the personalty underway. Well worth being the pain in the wallet. You will have a smile on your face the
first time you need it to perform. It's looking great and good to see the community knowledge while we get to watch. James got it spot on with
the oil cooler fittings, we just put light oil on the threads to ease in servicing the lines. Thermal expansion cooling and heating need the mechanical
assembly to move together so even pressure can be maintained at the seal. Keep up the good work, I think it's going to be the best thing you can do to
your boat. Prettiest too lol.
Thanks mate, it's definitely going to be worth it in the end.
Glad you are paying Attention to the Oil Flow to/from the Filter. When I bought my last Boat, I had the Dealer install Volvo's Remote Oil Filter. Oil Lines were reversed, and at about 120 hrs(2 summers) the Engine sounded like it had Mechanical Lifters. I touched the Oil Filter and it was cold, after 2 hours of 3500 - 4000 rpm. I took it back the Dealer and Explained what I found. Next day the called and said I had guessed correctly. All the bearings, Crankshaft, Camshaft, Cylinders, and Pistons were badly worn. Dealer got a New Long Block from Volvo and replaced it. It has now given me 14 yrs of trouble free use
Ouch. That's an expensive mistake to make!
Thanks for the update Stu... Despite this small setback you are going great guns mate. When she fires up soon I can hear those resounding words from the great Rocky Balboa.... "Yo Adrian ...we did it !!! "
Thank Mark. Slowly getting there. Any day now I'll be swapping money for noise! ;)
I can't believe you didn't get in a crash in that smoke...you were driving on the wrong side of the road the whole time
The ubiquitous "something of an inch to something other of an inch" adapter, I use those all the time too! Loving your channel, mate.
Thanks mate. :)
My boat has a Detroit 12 v71. And it’s a tank absolutely love it. All mechanical no electrical. And can fix everything on my own.
That's certainly what makes them so good in single screw boats!
Always something more than you expected isn't it. Good that your doing it right. Last thing you want is to break down at sea. It's coming together nice.
Really just shows that having a specialist is so important to the Finished Engine, Imagine kicking the Detroit in the Guts and hearing the blower reboring its self into the housing, OOOPS, Well caught
Yes, I'm certainly not regretting getting Adrian in for a final checkover of everything before turning the key.
I have been concerned about you and your country people, about the fires that are raging not that far away from you. Although our fires do not affect me directly in the middle part of California where I live, even some of the large fires that are several hundred miles to the north, the smoke will drift here and turn the sky milky white and you can smell it. Our news media does not spent but a brief time talking about your fires but with the smoke you showed in this video, make me know that massive destruction is raging not far from where you live. Hopeful you will stay safe and that rains will come soon to put those fires out. Enjoyed another chapter in the rebuilding of you boat and look forward to the next video.
Its interesting that your shop/work space is open to the outside. Even here in California the weather isn't that agreeable all the time.
Yes, it never gets that cold here even in winter.
I haven't checked in for a little bit but the engine looks beautiful. Congratulations! your are almost there looking back through the hole journey.
Thanks mate. :)
Hey doing it right is never a bad thing, it’ll cost more but in the years ahead when your cruising it you’ll be glad you did. Great Video Stu, every morning I’m checking my mail to see if your here and everyday you are I enjoy it. I’m in the process of putting a new Cummins in my 2008 3500 Dodge Ram 4x4 so I know about huntin parts. Have a great day and stay safe!!!!
Thanks mate, you are right it is worth doing right. Good luck with your Cummins!
A good catch with the blower, it it had been started with rotors rubbing the housings you would be looking for an entire new blower and taking the engine apart again to get the aluminium shavings out of everywhere. They only spin for a few seconds before enough heat is made to expand the rotors and make them tear up the surfaces and lock.
For sure Ray, I'm glad I didn't try to start it.
You have put in a ton of work on that old boat. May she give you years of reliable and enjoyable service.
thanks mate. :)
Good work Stu , you remembered my recommendation on using WIA 16TC rods. I could tell by the sound of the molten pool, that you had your amps set correctly. And the absence of splatter too, it’s right amps. Even if you pressure tested it and decided it wasn’t satisfactory, you could still put two more passes around that pipe and it would be totally fine only staggering the stop starts from the previous bead underneath. Another tip, before you start the weld, do a dummy run and make sure you are able to complete the longest possible weld in one go by making sure you have enough lead from the electrode handle and not snag on anything on the ground including your legs and full range of movement for your wrist and elbow to complete the longest possible weld pass going around the pipe or around a right angle corner or square tube to help with less stops and starts and smoother weld contour.
Also your welds are looking better too mate . Well done
That are great rods, I don't think I'll ever use anything else again. I do need to get in the habit of doing the dummy run as I often don't start supporting my arms in the right position.
Great advice on making a dummy run. Another bit to add onto it is thinking about clearance for the electrode with a fresh rod or one partially burned down. "Will it fit under that bracket with a half rod or do I need to weld it out in a different order." That one's got me more than once.
Scott Maschino , yeah I know mate , I try not to give out too many trade secrets, as too many amateurs will start looking at chasing my job. I only tell stu coz he’s a good bloke 😉
Good catch on the cracked blower end plate. If you had fired it up with the rotors contacting the housing, you'd have had a very rude surprise. Adrian is a talented mechanic.
Yes, I'm really glad he knew how it should feel. He said the best thing from the whole situation is that the engine had never been started.
You don't want to have to replace a damaged rotor. Not cheap.
It's great to have friends that you can count on in a time of need and to reciprocate the favor.
Wow. Complicated Stu. Glad you found a person to help. Thanks Adrian.
I'm glad I found him!
That’s awesome that you have friends that are knowledgeable and helpful. You’re doing a great job and thanks for bringing us along.
Good job pluggin away at it.
17K views in less than a day.... well done! The Dangar Stu Fan Club shows up in force.
And thank God for all the Detroit 'gurus' out there. While I think the Detroit Diesel may be the greatest powerplant ever made, it DOES have to be treated with respect(well, some, at least...)
Keep up the good work, Stu! Greetings from Florida, USA.
Thanks Steve.
It’s almost 5 o’clock somewhere, but not in your shop!
yet another top vid thanks.
so you have a clock on the boat and one in the work shop and both dont work ha. make one good one out of the two.
Steve
UK
I really enjoy seeing the community of people coming together to share their expertise. People such as Adrian are worth their weight in gold. Of course you pay it forward too Stuart by helping out with the outboard issues. Great job!
That part with oil on camera lens was so dreamy...
I should have done a dream sequence where it actually started. :)
Jeremy Clarkson would call it "soft focus."
You should have shot off an e-mail to Roger Penske. He loves this kind of stuff. And he owns Detroit Diesel . Wear one of his T-shirts, no telling what he would send you . Good catch on that blower. I had one come apart on me many years ago on a 671. it blew the whole housing right off the top of the motor. The repairs were over $3,000.00 . And that was over 30 years ago. Again, great videos ! Keep up the good work !
For sure, things would have been much worse had we tried to start it!
Good on ya remembering the zinc additive, too many people forget that for older engines.
Great episode Stu, nothing more valuable like having someone to catch on some issues before hand. Thank you Adrian ;)
Getting so close to hearing her roar!!! We all are rooting for ya Stu! Good catch with the blower, not disappointed at all. I think you would have been more disappointed hearing it self destruct when you fired it up. Stay well! Hope everyone is staying safe from the fires.
For sure Mike, would have been terrible to have tried to fire it up like that.
I like it----another wall clock in your shop that's not working!
Bit by little bit! The suspense is delicious. Great update. Nice to get a glimpse of Eddie.
Pick of Destiny! Love it....
Just a thought, on the fresh water pipe you made up, a small weld bead on the ends where the hose clamp goes will help prevent the hose from comming off.
I did experiment with that but it is already 3mm over sized and a very tight fit so I couldn't get it over the bead.
If it's not one thing, it's the other! :)
Thanks for taking us along.
Slow but with confident steps twards the end good and first class work done
Keep the good work and vids up stu
God bles you and family
Thanks mate.
Well, all hail Adrian. Sounds like a pretty useful contact. Nice one Stu. Take care, enjoy.
Wow are you lucky! At least this guy Adrian caught all that. At least you didn’t have to take it apart in the boat. Better to get it right the first time. Keep it up Stu!
For sure, it would have been a disaster if it had been started like that. Chances are metal would have gone into the cylinders.
One man's simple fix can drive another nuts. The guy with the Detroit experience might've spent all day trying to get the outboard shifting properly. It's just the nature of the beast and you have to go with it now and again.
Got to love JB and KG!
I tossed the factory bearing plates and bought some nice billet aluminium ones with much better bearing retainers. Much stronger too. You can get the front and rear ones on eBay for around $100 us each.
Nice, I'll see what I can find. Even if I can't do it now it could be a good upgrade down the track.
That engine looks Amazing!!!
It would be great if you could film Adrian working on those parts.
I would like that too!
I admire the detail and dedication. Big thumbs up for what is a quality job.
Holy crap Stu! Those fires are no joke man. Good thing you live on an island!
Christ, I thought that was fog. Some bush fire's! Gonna have to Google them, looks scary.
LOVE THIS BUILD
These old Screaming Jimmies are worth the effort once completed.
Wow, Allot more going on externally on this than I thought. Good thing you have locale help on this.
You may want to put a "T" on the oil pressure port and plumb in a pressure gauge at the engine. You'll end up needing to start, run, and check engine operation at the engine and not just the pilot house sometime in the future. It's best to do that now before installing the engine in the boat. A small engine control panel at the engine will be very nice to have. Instead of a pressure gauge at the engine you could just put in a low oil pressure switch and light. That would also allow adding an low oil pressure audible alarm that can be heard out on the deck so when you are running the engine while doing something away from the pilot house or at the engine you can be warned you have a serious engine problem. I'd do the same with engine temp as well. Detroit Diesels don't take over temp or low oil pressure condition's at all.
A T is a good idea. I would like to put a simple mechanical one in for first start up.
@@DangarMarine You will definitely want a "local start" provision in the engineroom.
Might want to install a drain hose for oil drain for easier oil change. I think it is called flock system.
Hey Stu, that is a great job you are doing.. all new parts, its gonna serve you well for many years! Love the Tenacious D tshirt haha, Cheers from Croatia!
Thanks mate.
The beauty oil filter on Pete was great, its like watching a soap!
Lot's of good progress today. Good work, men.
That blower shaft drive is the old, original fine-spline setup. At some point in the 80's, they updated them to a coarse spline arrangement, so when yours failed, you would have the privilege of buying not only a new shaft, but also new sprockets to mate up with the coarse splines. I know this, because I had the privilege of sitting in a small town in Western Ohio for 5 days and 4 nights while the parts supplier kept sending the wrong (incompatible) parts to the shop where I had been towed. The owner of the truck had the parts sitting on the shelf back home, and he finally got ticked off and over-nighted them, which he probably should have done 4 days sooner. Once the correct (and matching) shaft and drive and driven sprockets arrived, we were rolling again in short order. To be fair though, even before the update, you would/should have replaced the sprockets anyways, as you wouldn't want to trust the splines anymore once they had stripped out the splines on the shaft. That truck had an 8v-92 in it, and it was a replacement for a big silver-92 that had blown up. The green replacement itself was pretty well whipped by the time I got my hands on it. I've never been much of a fan of the old green leakers, always figured they were man's best invention for converting diesel fuel into noise. But for applications where climbing up mountains with heavy loads isn't the main focus, they're probably suitable powerplants. Not bad motors if you're drifting across the flatlands, but any truck I had with a -71 or a -92, I had to turn off the headlights so that the truck couldn't see the big hills coming up ahead of us.
You've doubled my resolve to carry spares Stan! Fortunately they work pretty well on the ocean where you have a constant load and no big hills to get up. :)
Square hole in blower drive is probably for the mechanical tach drive. I've got the same 4/71 in my boat. Took me a while to find an original AC tach, cable and reduction drive. I'm enjoying your video's and finding the insite invaluable. I've also got a left hand engine and finding most on RUclips are right hand not that it makes much difference.
3:10 you're welcome Stu. Sorry I didn't put enough cold gal on it to keep it looking pretty. I've seen it sitting on your bench a few times. Kept hoping it didn't fall off and break your foot.
Thanks Warren! :)
It's getting there Stu won't be long now
Its coming along nicely Stu No rush Do it once do it right
... or do it several times just so long as the last time is right, eh.
@@amascia8327 Ahahaha, or in My case the Third Attempt!
Thanks mate!
So glad to see this one. Great dedication and courage .
You know, Stu, if there weren't any setbacks: a) We wouldn't learn as much, and b) this rebuild would end too soon, my friend. Can't wait to see her cutting through the waves, but in the meantime, getting her ready is fascinating. Thanks for this outstanding series.
One of the things on my "Yankee Bucket List" is getting "down under." If that happens, I'll get some cold ones to you for the fridge you installed a few episodes ago. Just save one for me. Keep up the outstanding work.
Thanks Scott, glad you've been enjoying it. :)
16tcs are every aussie boilermakers favourite rod. They are so easy to run especially out of position.
I'm totally sold. I can't imagine using anything else now. Glad visibility of puddle tool. General 6013 rods and it's all smoke and slag but these you get a really clear view.
Us Boily’s say if ya can’t weld with a 16tc ya may as well give it up now 😂
Best rod out and such an easy rod to start
16tc ripper rod
Every time I see those Austarc electrodes, i have to google them to see what they are in North America. I am Canadian, but for the most part, we follow AWS. These are 3/32" E7016, which we have, but they are not as common as E7018. Both low Hydrogen and are supposed to be kept in a rod oven at 250 Deg.F once the cellophane sleeve is opened.
Interesting!
Nice practical overhaul and should give you a long cruising time.
Thanks for the video.
So glad you found these details. 👍🏼
You might need thread sealant on the bolts into the water jacket on the exhaust manifold. Looks like the holes extend into the jacket at the 3:25 point.
Great work Stu! Not sure if you know already but if you set your camera to 50fps instead of 60 you're gonna get rid of alot of that light flickering because the powergrid use 50hz mate.
Unfortunately it only does 30 or 60.
@@DangarMarine ah yee unfortunate!
Hi Stu, I love your videos...a great blend of two passions...boats and Detroit 2-strokes.
I scrolled through almost all the comments and didn't see this mentioned. And by now I'm sure Scott or someone has said this...but for others reading these comments...Detroit 2-stroke engines require CF-2 rated oil. That Turboil is the proper viscosity/weight, but it's CF-4 rated and I don't see that it meets the CF-2 specs.
I'm working backwards through the videos, so I know the ending! Great stuff. - best wishes to you!
Frustrating - but better to get it 100% before installing in the boat! Look forward to the next episode...
,,good idea to have a pro. look at your repairs, a bit of fine tuning always helps in the long run, great vid..
With a project as complex as yours is Stu it's always 2 steps forward and 1-1/2 steps back... but there is a dim light beginning to show at the end of this long rebuild/refurbishment tunnel.
Nice to see those safety shoes on again when you were using the cutoff saw 😬
radio talk show star in our presence! Another day in paradise. the red boat needs ''jus more duck tape''
Mate, its a quarter to five!! For ever!
Even a stopped clock tells the right time twice a day!
Oil on the camera lens ? Naw , just say that is special effects like Star Wars . Great work Man and knock back a few coldies !
This is all very well and good, however Johnny saw an error back in episode one when you put a left handed flenagel on a right handed pitman rod. Pull it all apart and start again, Mr K doesn't want the show to end!
LOL
The oil cooler fittings that you put thread sealer on do not need sealer. They are JIC or SAE and they actually sealy on the flare not the threads.
I thought they were called "A-N fittings" (Army-Navy).
@@dustyfarmer it depends on the angle of the flare. 45 Deg is a SAE fitting (Some call them AN) and 37.5 Deg is a JIC fitting
these old 2stroke detroits the dipstick was off from factory the reason people pointed this out was when under hard load and after wear was put on them they had to have total oil volume removed aka reduce max fill because of a issue with these engines running away running on theyre own crank case oil due to blow by forcing crank oil into the intake making them run away till they went boom LOL.
I think total volume reduction was around 1-1.5 quarts after they were wore in this was common for tow truck service vehicles and dump trucks and school buses and such they removed the oil capacitty to reduce the blowby forcing raw oil into the super charger where it was atomized and turned into raw fuel making them run away and when they went into run away they then started extreme RPM's which caused even more blowby and raw oil to be dumped into super charger aka horrible chain reaction meaning it will scream till it blows LOL.
Just stumbled on to your videos Great imfo. Howdy from Texas.
Welcome!
@12:35 Dean does his disappearing ghost act 😊
Great stuff Stu !
witness marks on everything when you take it apart is the only way to go. have you thought about puting a compressor on the rear gearcase. would be great if you ever use airbags for salvage lifting.
Yes, I have thought about putting a compressor on. It would certainly save a lot of space over the big petrol compressor.
G’day Stu you’ve done a great job on the engine if nothing else it looks terrific. It’s good you have people like Adrian who know a lot about these engines it’s a bit strange that there is no specs or instructions on how to do things when assembling it, anyway it makes for great viewing all the best John
Thanks John. The lack of info on the marine side is a bit frustrating.
Stu, you gotta remember that every silver lining has a cloud
They do. ;)
I keep looking away when people weld on video.......doh 🤣
Some habits are hard to break!
Not alone. lol.
For future disassembly, consider using loctite marine never-seize on the bolts.
Good to see you got your saftey boots on lol
You can see the Money in a Big Boat on Man Hours Alone, less the parts!
Awesome Show DM,, Unreal.
Thanks Jono. Dean was watching this all unfold and said later, "I'm glad I don't own a boat!" :)
Awesome as always Stu
G'Day Stu,,Mate those oil lines look to be JIC,,No need for loctite as they seal metal to metal on the taper,Some even have bleed of holes for when the fitting is loose,,Just weaps,,
before getting to exciting,,AND,,Typical with the hydraulic community,,are measured in 1/16's of an inch,I.E.1/2 inch is really 8/16's..or size 8..I Think,,always used BSP fittings,on most of the gear i had to maintain,
Hmm,,TC 16 was the right choice,,how ever would have just warmed pipe and the electrodes, make 's for better weld bond,,Get some of the water in the metal out,less boiled water in weld metal.
Great video. I know you are disappointed, but it sure makes a good video! Thanks from the Chesapeake!
Thanks Jeff, hopefully it will all be fixed up next week. :)
Another great video mate, so glad you found the blower issue. Still wondering about that 1 bolt that is either too short or stripped out threads in the block.
A coopers to ponder over it might help. Look forward to the follow up. Russ.
Me too, we did not find the answer to that question
I went back and rewatched that portion of the video to make sure I hadn't dozed off when Stu was telling us what was up with that bolt.
Stu commented on it in another question about it with this: Dangar Marine 4 hours ago:
"I'm going to stick a borescope in next time I'm at the workshop and look. "
Please consider getting a master plumbers opinion on the way you've got the pipe reduction inserted as opposed to butt joining. I've been told that the inserted lip will cause eddys in the flow which not only causes reduced efficiency but over time can cause pin holes through the metal pipe. I'm no expert, just thought I'd make mention of it .🤙🏾😎
Yes, may get something specially made down the track when time is one my side. It will be an easy swap out.
Wait to mark the dipstick until in the boat. Fill with factory spec, mark it. I would not cut it.
Videos are good but the hardest part is sitting through the excessive on screen time you spend. Talk over video and keep it interesting. Thanks for your work.
Stu says to chickens as he steals their egg; "sorry guys, its a fair swap"...your kids for some scraps :)...sorry Stu, couldn't help myself finishing that sentence...now to watch the rest of the video!
Great job as usual Stu. Take care with the smoke and the fires over there mate... Cheers for now... ;-}
Hey Stu did you put some sealer on the bolts and fittings on the water side of the manifold ! Yep your right mate, put the recommended amount of oil in the engine with the filter plus a bit and then cut the dip stick to length !! Great vid thanks mate. Seeya Rob
@10:00 thought I was watching Bus Grease Monkey there for a minute ;-)
Always enjoyable