U.K. Hi Stu. I have a a lady friend near Sydney. She was going out of town to stay with a friend over Christmas, not heard from her since. Seeing that smoke makes you think. She is a good mate, I'm married 44 years and 10,000 miles away so she is not a bit on the side. Seen the photos' Stu, it's about time the old country got it's wallet out, you have stood by us always. Look after yourselves.
For battery connections for that type of battery terminal, you need to use a ferrule as it will help with the wire strands not getting fatigued and breaking thus lowering your wire amperage capacity. If you can not find copper ferrules a small piece of copper pipe would work just fine. Make sure you dimple and crimp from opposite sides and 90 degrees offset for each pair of crimps (crimp top with bottom and right with left). Do not use solder on any connections at the battery as it can melt and compromise the electrical connection. Best of luck!
Take care on the fire lines. I watched Northern California fires burning out people in the twisties where I used to ride bikes and enjoy their hospitality. It all goes so damn fast from Paradise to charred memories and dreams, from beauty to rubble. Know my heart is with the people of Australia, and so too are the hearts of anyone who knows even a little about what it's really like. Best wishes, Friend.
We are all hoping it pours rain in Australia fire areas, thinking about the people and animals who are impacted by these terrible fires. Best wishes from Canada its minus 42 here where i live. Looking forward to seeing the Detroit Diesel spinning the prop.
1:25 mark right about here the old song "Cruuuusty....Crusty Crustaceans..!" started playing in my head. If I ever get a ship, I'm gonna call it " A Bigger Boat "
Thanks for the tip on bending welding rod. That's a new one on me. Every welding rod I've ever used was so old that if you look at it wrong the flux shatters into powder.
Thanks once again Stu ,love how you spend that extra time cleanining up,being house proud afloat never fails. Good ship's husbandry makes sense. Keep up the excellent work. Stay safe if you are helping out with the fires. Love how your pigeons like prawns.......
What can I say that hasn't already been said? Always looking forward to my weekly "Stu" fix. Getting excited now, soon she'll be moving under her own steam. Keep up the great work, and thanks again for taking the time and trouble to share it all with us.
Very exciting getting close to installing the Detroit deisel. 2 summers ago our skys were that smokey. You could taste the smoke in the air. Very nasty. Good thing rain is coming for you guys and the animals
try an make sure you put drip loops on all your wires!!! if not water runs down your wires right onto all your connections hence electrolasiss / corrosion.
ha.....you need to make D-Squad long sleeve T's....that is great Stu. Another good update, thanks for that. Look forward to info on the fires, we have some news feed on it up here but many of us are worried about how it's really going. Rain would be a blessing, good luck with that and if you go help stay safe!
Got stuff Stuey, don’t worry about the moaners mate people can’t help it. Looking forward to having the sun back in the uk from you as you had it long enough now! Looking forward to the next one 👍🏴
FYI I would cut the pipes 3" below the deck and make a new set of risers on a flange that bolts to the deck and sticks down about 2" below the deck. Then bolt he flange with riser to the deck with sealant and use hose and hose clamps to connect to the risers. That way you can unbolt it and work on the deck anytime. Looks good and not to long before the engine is in the bay.
I don't know every time I watch your videos I learn something new, LOL. Is it because you're so smart or I don't know enough! I will remember the trick with the welding rod though, it never occurred to me to gently bend them, and be careful of the flux, to get it in somewhere where you normally can't reach. Super good tip thank you very much!
Quick suggestion - why not have two outlets? One acting as a high flow outlet and one acting as a sort of telltale to allow visual indication of cooling water flow? Then it would be similar to an outboard where you can visually see some water getting to the top of the block
I replaced my old rubber flexi hose from sea strainer with a reinforced clear hose and there's nothing better than seeing the solid flow through the hose into the engine.
Great video as always. I love seeing all the amazing progress. You will want double hose clamps on any hoses below the water line. A survey would flag that as a deficiency in the US
Thanks mate. You tend to double hose clamp with worm gear clamps because they really aren't that great. T-bar clamps are much, much better but are also wider so you often don't have room for two, but it's a bit like walking across a bridge made from balsa wood with a spare one below it also made from balsa wood. I'd rather just walk across the single steel bridge next to it. ;)
I always tighten a skin or tank fitting down onto the silicone or siccaflex just lightly , leave overnight and then tighten up,for the same reason, to keep a decent gasket thickness. If you have time this works really well for almost everything that needs a gasket !
For sure, that is definitely what I am going to do here too. Now it is a few days later I'll give it another tighten now the Sikaflex has set and can't be squeezed out.
I would have second thought cutting of the crimp battery connections and resort to mechanical connections. Just from my experiences as a auto, bus and truck mechanic. You need to put some type of corrosion deterrent grease or dielectric grease especially in the marine environment where corrosion is hard to prevent. Keep those connections checked for torque. There is no comparison from when you started to now on the troller. Great workmanship partner.
You what I would have done stu about a few things you did Nothing cos I don't have a steel boat 😂🤣😋 great channel stu been watching since before the steel trawler and as I am new to boating you have taught me a lot with all your vids and given me the confidence to try repairing and maintenance myself thanks mate
I much prefer seeing the water coming out of the engine. You won't get a feel for the flow looking at the strainer. Alternatively you can install a flow alarm sensor in-line. That is actually a requirement for commercial boats in Canada.
The clock is ticking again! Have you considered placing a car camera (or two) in the engine room & little monitor in the wheelhouse to keep any eye on things? They run off of 12VDC and most of the monitors can view two different camera inputs so maybe a fore & aft set to watch for problems while traveling...just a thought. Super glad the weather is changing in favor of helping fight the fires...been very concerned about you, Brupeg and all my other friends in Australia with these fires being set.
I've been talking to Raymarine about an engine bay camera they sell that is a composite infrared / visible spectrum unit. It allows you to define polygons on the display in the wheelhouse an define maximum temperatures for each polygon with an alarm that goes off if that temperature is exceeded. Very cool!
You are making fine progress. My take is a visible raw water outlet is the most functional solution, not the prettiest but the safest low tech (fool proof) one.⛵️
starting to get real excited Stu .you deserve this mate ,from fixing a johno 35 2stroke to the detroit with blower .fu---ing great i hope the bus grease monkey is proud of you and adrian .so stoked you found him cheers duncan
Hope to get the Landy back soon. It is currently at a garage waiting on the blue slip because I cancelled the registration after 6 weeks of being missing.
At 13:54.. the multi tap battery terminal.. instead of chopping the crimped on ring terminals off.. take out one of the allen set screws and change it for a longer allen set screw so you can put a Jam nut on.. the ring terminal on the battery cable and the top nut to hold it in place.. hint.. you can still use that opening for bare wire by just loosening the jam nut and screwing the long allen set screw in.. EDIT.. you can also drill and tap another blind hole in the top of the cable end for a stud to put your cables on.. second tip.. take some RTV or maybe some sikaflex.. and put a small bead around the battery posts where they come up thru the plastic top of the battery.. the lead posts are poured and it shrinks slightly when it cools.. leaving a tiny gap that acid vapors can come up and cause corrosion... blocking the acid vapors cuts down corrosion forming components in the years to come.. to crank or not to crank. that is the question. weather it be the buzz or the clicks of despair.. the wish to be somewhere else at that point may not be answered..
Good welding on those upright pipes. It's hard to see, hard to keep the rod angle, tough to get a good bead. Makes you appreciate the skill of those guys who weld boilers. Some places that are hard to get to, they have to bend the rod into a hook shape and work with the stinger in one hand and an inspection mirror in the other.
Forget the media hype and hysteria bru. The people who lost their houses are fools who werent prepared with petrol powered pumps and lots of water. Fire is a normal part of life in the Australian bush. Get used to it.
You should put in a “T” in the cooling water line and run a small diameter hose from the “T” to up near the skin fitting for the bilge pump, add a skin fitting for that hose that turns down when it exits. This way you’ll have a small stream of water to indicate you’re cooling properly, and it faces down so you’re not spraying water obnoxiously. Similar to an outboard I guess 👍🏻🤷🏼♂️
I did consider doing that. It will give you can indication that the water is flowing. It might just take a bit of tuning is figure out where to put it given the outlet pipe isn't filled or under any pressure like in an outboard.
@@DangarMarine Could have a gate valve on the main output to tune the overall flow/backpressure out of the main fitting. Then it if really starts pissing out the top fitting you know something is blocking the main output, or something has changed. This is from my Reef Aquarium experience, using gate valves to tune flow to either hush up intakes, and direct flow to certain pieces of equipment.
I was also going to suggest a valve to build a little pressure. Love this build as well! Makes me want a trawler with a crane just to pick up my inflatable 🤣🤦🏼♂️
Tannor Reynolds I had 16' Zodiac, 50hp Marc, bench,windshield, forward controls, etc! John Wayne walked up to me an asked, Hey Pilgrim wheres best place to eat? I told him, then kidded him for having Zodiacs as dingy! That's my dive boat! Come out an ill show you! 2 days later I come by his wild goose an brought me on board to see an met his friend Ben Johnson, leading on most beautiful wood bar!
Consider putting a T in the cooling water out hose and discharge that through the hull (like an outboard's tell-tale). That way you get to see if it is working while the majority of the water out goes out under the waterline...
Great News Stu. I can't wait for the engine install and start. Good work. I share the American sentiment for your countries terrible fires. Also, I love your birds!
Rule #1: keep the water on the outside. I'd personally put the raw water outlet where you can see it. It is very comforting once you start the engine to be able see cooling water leave the boat. Not only do you know that the heat exchanger is getting coolant, but also that the discharge is not filling the bilge. As a side benefit, it means you can have one less hole in your hull under the waterline.
I agree with this Stu, I’d rather be able to have a quick glance at the outlet when ever I felt like it instead of having to go down in the engine bay every time it crossed my mind. If it’s in sight you’ll monitor it more.
One advantage to the flow meter is that people generally only check the overflow at startup. If a hose pops off while underway you won't notice where the meter will give an alarm.
To protect electronics I've seen washing up bowls cut in half and attached as spray and drip covers. Obviously, the rim is screwed and sealed to the hull/bulkhead and the bottom extends low enough to keep any water away from the equipment. Very cheap, very simple...
Looking good Stu. Won't be long now and she'll be locked and loaded... Can't waiting to see her back where she belongs, tied in and running... Done a great job mate, have a great week. Cheers for now mate... ;-}
Looking forward to the next vlog it will be good to see the engine in. Never seen a chook eating prawns, it must be a N S W thing I noticed that you got your clock working look good there anyhow good vid. John
Flow alarm in end of cooling water discharge, buzzer and light up on dash I swear by these as have pulled too many engines out that have been cooked for simple things like a hose blown off or s/w pump impeller gone. Having a alarm for it means you catch it as soon as anything happens , a very cheap investment.
Yes, in that respect a flow meter is better than an outlet about the water line as you only even check those on startup but a flow meter will be monitoring all the time you are underway. That's a big advantage.
Having a quick way to check water flow is far more important than a little water on the wharf/dock. Having to lift the engine hatch repeatedly or in rough seas is a pain. With the Detroit, getting it hot can be very damaging very quickly.
take a good advice from who got a problem with 2 boat where the transom got rotted out, dont only use silicone to seal the hole that u made for the ubolts in the digny. Use either epoxy or polyester first to soak in the wood inside the holes and after use the silicone as u did. greets from sweden.
Hey Leif, yes, the same thought did occur to me. In this case I don't think it is going to be a huge issue as this was a pretty cheap boat and is living in the water full time on a island with rocky shores covered in oysters. Somehow don't think the transom is going to be the first thing to go. ;) Having said that, the next inflatable I get will be of a higher quality and in that case I will definitely go the epoxy route as I will be looking to make that boat really last.
@@DangarMarine you have a good point haha, never thought you reply, i would like to say, thanks to all good and well informed movies during the years, most i already know but i also learned allot, unfortunately i cant give any money but i try spread the channel to some who maby have "deeper pockets". Keep up the good work and when you done with the trawler please start fixing outboards again and maby start a other boat project :D. CHEERS!
Just wondering at 11:08 it looks like a copper line laying on a metal cross piece. Don't know what will be in the copper line, but maybe insulate it to keep it from rubbing on the steel. Lookin' good
All thru hull holes should be above the waterline unless they have to be below. That and you can see it when starting the boat long before your temp gauge hits red or steam starts flowing out of the motor box.
@@DangarMarine Dude, I 'm serious. I have wet exhaust in all my boats and always walk to the transom to make sure the water is flowing when I first drop them in. Maybe not so much the rest of the day after the first start (I can hear if there is a change in the exhaust tone) but after they sit you never know what can happen. A valve left closed, vain in the water pump took a shit after sitting.... Heat exchangers wont tell you crap until they are glowing red or smoking. I would want the drain out the transom being you use a tender, a few inches above the waterline. Get it started, take a walk to the transom to make sure you have flow and anything else you want to check on and then you are off for the day.
My father was in the RAAF on crash boats in 1943. I herd a story of a ghost boat, every morning it would try to start. Winding over with nobody on board. Turns out the starter solinid was wires up , condensation was forming and shorting the starter.
U.K. Hi Stu. I have a a lady friend near Sydney. She was going out of town to stay with a friend over Christmas, not heard from her since. Seeing that smoke makes you think. She is a good mate, I'm married 44 years and 10,000 miles away so she is not a bit on the side. Seen the photos' Stu, it's about time the old country got it's wallet out, you have stood by us always. Look after yourselves.
I was ready to give up on the internet, then I get a bit of dangar content and my faith is restored
Never knew you could bend a welding rod for a purpose like that. Awesome thing to learn...thanks!
For battery connections for that type of battery terminal, you need to use a ferrule as it will help with the wire strands not getting fatigued and breaking thus lowering your wire amperage capacity. If you can not find copper ferrules a small piece of copper pipe would work just fine. Make sure you dimple and crimp from opposite sides and 90 degrees offset for each pair of crimps (crimp top with bottom and right with left). Do not use solder on any connections at the battery as it can melt and compromise the electrical connection. Best of luck!
Take care on the fire lines. I watched Northern California fires burning out people in the twisties where I used to ride bikes and enjoy their hospitality. It all goes so damn fast from Paradise to charred memories and dreams, from beauty to rubble. Know my heart is with the people of Australia, and so too are the hearts of anyone who knows even a little about what it's really like. Best wishes, Friend.
Thanks Lee.
Mate , I am very glad you fixed the clock. Now its just a race against time.
"Because the bilge has been really dry I decided Im gonna drill a hole thru the side and see if we can bring things back to normal"
villian loudness Classic Stu. 🤣
LOL!
... he said with a straight face.
I thought that was funny too. ;-)
We are all hoping it pours rain in Australia fire areas, thinking about the people and animals who are impacted by these terrible fires. Best wishes from Canada its minus 42 here where i live. Looking forward to seeing the Detroit Diesel spinning the prop.
Awesome as always! Love the "turning the pin in the lathe" :D Oh, and you forgot to prime the... never mind.
1:25 mark right about here the old song "Cruuuusty....Crusty Crustaceans..!" started playing in my head. If I ever get a ship, I'm gonna call it " A Bigger Boat "
Good name. :)
Really jazzed to see you at this point. Can't wait to see the lump back where it's meant to be, chugging merrily along.
Stu you have the best boat in the harbor. Be safe fighting those fires. Countdown to engine on!
Thanks mate.
That lathe made me chuckle, We are all guilty of doing it at least once.
It looked just like a factory piece when I was done!
I'm now thinking of getting a drill press so I can do that!
Standard practice !
Thanks for the tip on bending welding rod. That's a new one on me. Every welding rod I've ever used was so old that if you look at it wrong the flux shatters into powder.
Yes, old welding rods definitely go brittle, or soft if they are wet. Either way they make the job much harder than it needs to be!
Thanks once again Stu ,love how you spend that extra time cleanining up,being house proud afloat never fails. Good ship's husbandry makes sense. Keep up the excellent work. Stay safe if you are helping out with the fires. Love how your pigeons like prawns.......
david Woods , those pigeons are called Chickens
@@CaptMarkSVAlcina really??? look like pigeons to me
Thanks David. Can't wait to get all the topsides cleaned up now. :)
@@DangarMarine Yes she is gonna look really good soon thats for sure
david Woods , ok ,maybe where you come from.
What can I say that hasn't already been said? Always looking forward to my weekly "Stu" fix. Getting excited now, soon she'll be moving under her own steam. Keep up the great work, and thanks again for taking the time and trouble to share it all with us.
Thanks mate. Engine went in yesterday so won't be long now!
Very exciting getting close to installing the Detroit deisel. 2 summers ago our skys were that smokey. You could taste the smoke in the air. Very nasty. Good thing rain is coming for you guys and the animals
Hey Tim, yes, very glad the rain has finally arrived. Pouring down today! :)
try an make sure you put drip loops on all your wires!!! if not water runs down your wires right onto all your connections hence electrolasiss / corrosion.
ha.....you need to make D-Squad long sleeve T's....that is great Stu. Another good update, thanks for that. Look forward to info on the fires, we have some news feed on it up here but many of us are worried about how it's really going. Rain would be a blessing, good luck with that and if you go help stay safe!
Thanks mate. Have been thinking about a D-Squad shirt. :) Yes, looks like a week of rain on its way which will be very welcome.
Got stuff Stuey, don’t worry about the moaners mate people can’t help it. Looking forward to having the sun back in the uk from you as you had it long enough now! Looking forward to the next one 👍🏴
Thanks mate, yes, winter does wear thin pretty fast for sure.
Love the safety gear, not even a pair of Japanese safety shoes but bare feet, you're a classic Stu, love your work mate!!!
Nappie's to keep your bilge dry, wonderful! And to keep your puppy clean.... a bilge pump''s spray.
Sure looks better than first time we saw this engine compartment, Your Still Doing Really Good!
Thanks Tim. It's funny to think back now!
"So I quickly just threw that in the late and turned it down a bit" 😂 Spot on
Perfect, just had a 20 hour study session to finish my deadlines due in 3 hours and you post a video to relax after frying my brain!
20 hour session is hardcore. Hope it went well!
I've always wanted a lathe, thanks Stu as I think I can afford one now.
FYI I would cut the pipes 3" below the deck and make a new set of risers on a flange that bolts to the deck and sticks down about 2" below the deck. Then bolt he flange with riser to the deck with sealant and use hose and hose clamps to connect to the risers. That way you can unbolt it and work on the deck anytime. Looks good and not to long before the engine is in the bay.
Sounds like a nice design.
I don't know every time I watch your videos I learn something new, LOL. Is it because you're so smart or I don't know enough! I will remember the trick with the welding rod though, it never occurred to me to gently bend them, and be careful of the flux, to get it in somewhere where you normally can't reach. Super good tip thank you very much!
You're welcome. :)
Is it the extremely hot temperatures in Aus that make the sense of humour so dry - love it!
Ha, love it. ;)
Quick suggestion - why not have two outlets? One acting as a high flow outlet and one acting as a sort of telltale to allow visual indication of cooling water flow? Then it would be similar to an outboard where you can visually see some water getting to the top of the block
I replaced my old rubber flexi hose from sea strainer with a reinforced clear hose and there's nothing better than seeing the solid flow through the hose into the engine.
That Grinder transparent safety guard is holding up well
Looking forward to dropping in and starting in up. Great work Stu.
oh so much closer now! keep up the great work.
Great video as always. I love seeing all the amazing progress. You will want double hose clamps on any hoses below the water line. A survey would flag that as a deficiency in the US
Thanks mate. You tend to double hose clamp with worm gear clamps because they really aren't that great. T-bar clamps are much, much better but are also wider so you often don't have room for two, but it's a bit like walking across a bridge made from balsa wood with a spare one below it also made from balsa wood. I'd rather just walk across the single steel bridge next to it. ;)
Hey,,.You got your port hole clock working...great.
I always tighten a skin or tank fitting down onto the silicone or siccaflex just lightly , leave overnight and then tighten up,for the same reason, to keep a decent gasket thickness. If you have time this works really well for almost everything that needs a gasket !
For sure, that is definitely what I am going to do here too. Now it is a few days later I'll give it another tighten now the Sikaflex has set and can't be squeezed out.
I'm a sikafant for sikaflex since discovering it 6yrs ago I use it to the point of obsession on every conceivable thing that needs adhesion.
It is great stuff.
As a reminder to the Dangar community viewership, every time Stu says .”Sikaflex”, we drink a shot of whatever is handy! Good times, good luck to Stu!
Welding around corners! Loving it!
Keep it up Stu, one step at a time!!!
I love it. Shorts no shoes and welding. My kind of man.
Can't wait to see that thing running
What an amazing work ethic. Congratulations on your progress!
Another great video Stu can’t wait to see the engine in!
I would have second thought cutting of the crimp battery connections and resort to mechanical connections. Just from my experiences as a auto, bus and truck mechanic. You need to put some type of corrosion deterrent grease or dielectric grease especially in the marine environment where corrosion is hard to prevent. Keep those connections checked for torque. There is no comparison from when you started to now on the troller. Great workmanship partner.
Yes, still need to tidy those connections up and put a bit of grease and loctite on them.
I'm totally stoked to see you bring this thing back to life.... too cool.
It's not even my boat yet I'm so excited to see this engine go in!
Your proof you can't stop a thinking Captain! Good work!
Thanks mate.
Great video. Your boat is looking good, almost new again. So I understand being house proud. I’m looking forward to seeing the engine install.
Like your bending welding rods tip.
Tim Lole , I don’t know you could do that.
Great progress Stu love the chicken updates, engine in oh yeah, Jeff in LA USA
Bring on the rain. Not just for the fires, but for the drought also. Can't wait to see the donk in. Tic, tic, tic nice to see. Cheers Stu.
love the fact you are now house proud about the engine bay... bet those hours with the needle gun seem a long time ago
Yes, it's funny to think back to that first video with a rusty flooded engine bay. :)
Great progress Stu. You should smear some vaseline or copper grease onto your battery terminals to prevent corrosion
Yes, I'll give them a spray with something once they are all finished.
Thanks for the great tips in your video. Can't wait to see you underway in your boat. 😄
You're welcome Jeff, me either!
Your welcome for the tip on the dingy.
You what I would have done stu about a few things you did
Nothing cos I don't have a steel boat 😂🤣😋 great channel stu been watching since before the steel trawler and as I am new to boating you have taught me a lot with all your vids and given me the confidence to try repairing and maintenance myself thanks mate
I much prefer seeing the water coming out of the engine. You won't get a feel for the flow looking at the strainer. Alternatively you can install a flow alarm sensor in-line. That is actually a requirement for commercial boats in Canada.
The clock is ticking again!
Have you considered placing a car camera (or two) in the engine room & little monitor in the wheelhouse to keep any eye on things?
They run off of 12VDC and most of the monitors can view two different camera inputs so maybe a fore & aft set to watch for problems while traveling...just a thought.
Super glad the weather is changing in favor of helping fight the fires...been very concerned about you, Brupeg and all my other friends in Australia with these fires being set.
I've been talking to Raymarine about an engine bay camera they sell that is a composite infrared / visible spectrum unit. It allows you to define polygons on the display in the wheelhouse an define maximum temperatures for each polygon with an alarm that goes off if that temperature is exceeded. Very cool!
Damn...that is really cool!
You are making fine progress. My take is a visible raw water outlet is the most functional solution, not the prettiest but the safest low tech (fool proof) one.⛵️
I may go flow indicator in the end, but I must say, I do love simple and low-tech too.
You should have non return values on the bilge pump discharge or a foot valve at the pump outlet stu.. many a boat been flooded from back feeding
Yes, the pumps came with check valves.
starting to get real excited Stu .you deserve this mate ,from fixing a johno 35 2stroke to the detroit with blower .fu---ing great i hope the bus grease monkey is proud of you and adrian .so stoked you found him cheers duncan
Thanks Duncan!
Love your work from Port Hedland.
Thanks mate. :)
... the clock is ticking.
no, not the countdown of the engin, the one on the wall!
you beat me to it was going to say the same
Hooray, I can put my watch right again, it’s says 9am right now!
It's a new clock.
Yay!
Yes, just replaced it in the end as the other instruments weren't accurate any more either.
Hope the landy is safe now. Great vid as always stay safe (ish) and fair winds
Hope to get the Landy back soon. It is currently at a garage waiting on the blue slip because I cancelled the registration after 6 weeks of being missing.
Red boat proving Charles’ Law, great teaching moment!
Thanks Art.
Always enjoy your vids. Informative and therapeutic.
Looking forward to seeing the engine in though, it's been a while. Will be good when she moves under her own power.
battery chargers gets a better flow aswell when the cables are going downwards :)
Good thinking! ;)
@@DangarMarine haha yeah nopt many peaople knows about it but ye its kinda usefull :D awsome vids like allways :)
Gravity fed charging system.
@@damn3putts thats why the solar is best on the roof as well 😉
Chickens and prawns yeah! Thanks Stu
At 13:54.. the multi tap battery terminal.. instead of chopping the crimped on ring terminals off.. take out one of the allen set screws and change it for a longer allen set screw so you can put a Jam nut on.. the ring terminal on the battery cable and the top nut to hold it in place.. hint.. you can still use that opening for bare wire by just loosening the jam nut and screwing the long allen set screw in..
EDIT.. you can also drill and tap another blind hole in the top of the cable end for a stud to put your cables on..
second tip.. take some RTV or maybe some sikaflex.. and put a small bead around the battery posts where they come up thru the plastic top of the battery.. the lead posts are poured and it shrinks slightly when it cools.. leaving a tiny gap that acid vapors can come up and cause corrosion... blocking the acid vapors cuts down corrosion forming components in the years to come.. to crank or not to crank. that is the question. weather it be the buzz or the clicks of despair.. the wish to be somewhere else at that point may not be answered..
Nice tips, thanks!
As a Californian I'm all too familiar with Wild Fires , our heart goes to the Australian people who have had so much destruction & loss .
Thanks Greg.
7:30 welding in the wind while using an inflatable rescue skiff as a shield. wow
Good welding on those upright pipes. It's hard to see, hard to keep the rod angle, tough to get a good bead. Makes you appreciate the skill of those guys who weld boilers. Some places that are hard to get to, they have to bend the rod into a hook shape and work with the stinger in one hand and an inspection mirror in the other.
Thanks mate. They certainly aren’t great welds but they should do the job. All these odd angles certain does make you appreciate the pros!
Danger Marine, I don't know anybody in Aus. Just know that we From Namibia is praying for Aus in their fight against the fires.....
Forget the media hype and hysteria bru. The people who lost their houses are fools who werent prepared with petrol powered pumps and lots of water. Fire is a normal part of life in the Australian bush. Get used to it.
Exactly, A'sR. And add in the Green filth with their non-removal of undergrowth using 'cool' burns.
We used scouring powder and a damp sponge to scrub rust years ago.
You should put in a “T” in the cooling water line and run a small diameter hose from the “T” to up near the skin fitting for the bilge pump, add a skin fitting for that hose that turns down when it exits. This way you’ll have a small stream of water to indicate you’re cooling properly, and it faces down so you’re not spraying water obnoxiously. Similar to an outboard I guess 👍🏻🤷🏼♂️
I did consider doing that. It will give you can indication that the water is flowing. It might just take a bit of tuning is figure out where to put it given the outlet pipe isn't filled or under any pressure like in an outboard.
Tannor Reynolds very nice, I was thinking of T but you bet me to comments, haha! Love his build!
@@DangarMarine Could have a gate valve on the main output to tune the overall flow/backpressure out of the main fitting. Then it if really starts pissing out the top fitting you know something is blocking the main output, or something has changed.
This is from my Reef Aquarium experience, using gate valves to tune flow to either hush up intakes, and direct flow to certain pieces of equipment.
I was also going to suggest a valve to build a little pressure. Love this build as well! Makes me want a trawler with a crane just to pick up my inflatable 🤣🤦🏼♂️
Tannor Reynolds I had 16' Zodiac, 50hp Marc, bench,windshield, forward controls, etc! John Wayne walked up to me an asked, Hey Pilgrim wheres best place to eat? I told him, then kidded him for having Zodiacs as dingy! That's my dive boat! Come out an ill show you! 2 days later I come by his wild goose an brought me on board to see an met his friend Ben Johnson, leading on most beautiful wood bar!
Thanks for another interesting video Stu.
Best wishes from NZ 👍👍👍
Hey Stu,
probably a good idea to put a bit of gauze in that tank breather. Anything bigger than 1/2" needs it for survey.
I'll look into that.
Consider putting a T in the cooling water out hose and discharge that through the hull (like an outboard's tell-tale). That way you get to see if it is working while the majority of the water out goes out under the waterline...
Great News Stu. I can't wait for the engine install and start. Good work. I share the American sentiment for your countries terrible fires. Also, I love your birds!
Thanks Wally.
Rule #1: keep the water on the outside. I'd personally put the raw water outlet where you can see it. It is very comforting once you start the engine to be able see cooling water leave the boat. Not only do you know that the heat exchanger is getting coolant, but also that the discharge is not filling the bilge. As a side benefit, it means you can have one less hole in your hull under the waterline.
I agree with this Stu, I’d rather be able to have a quick glance at the outlet when ever I felt like it instead of having to go down in the engine bay every time it crossed my mind. If it’s in sight you’ll monitor it more.
I like hanging my head over the side and seeing the wet exhaust, gives me confidence. And I caught a blocked inlet before it caused overheating.
One advantage to the flow meter is that people generally only check the overflow at startup. If a hose pops off while underway you won't notice where the meter will give an alarm.
To protect electronics I've seen washing up bowls cut in half and attached as spray and drip covers. Obviously, the rim is screwed and sealed to the hull/bulkhead and the bottom extends low enough to keep any water away from the equipment. Very cheap, very simple...
Nice idea. :)
Looking good Stu. Won't be long now and she'll be locked and loaded... Can't waiting to see her back where she belongs, tied in and running... Done a great job mate, have a great week. Cheers for now mate... ;-}
Allways interresting content. Thank you !
Looking forward to the next vlog it will be good to see the engine in. Never seen a chook eating prawns, it must be a N S W thing I noticed that you got your clock working look good there anyhow good vid. John
Thanks John.
moving right along!!!
Flow alarm in end of cooling water discharge, buzzer and light up on dash I swear by these as have pulled too many engines out that have been cooked for simple things like a hose blown off or s/w pump impeller gone. Having a alarm for it means you catch it as soon as anything happens , a very cheap investment.
Yes, in that respect a flow meter is better than an outlet about the water line as you only even check those on startup but a flow meter will be monitoring all the time you are underway. That's a big advantage.
Having a quick way to check water flow is far more important than a little water on the wharf/dock. Having to lift the engine hatch repeatedly or in rough seas is a pain. With the Detroit, getting it hot can be very damaging very quickly.
take a good advice from who got a problem with 2 boat where the transom got rotted out, dont only use silicone to seal the hole that u made for the ubolts in the digny. Use either epoxy or polyester first to soak in the wood inside the holes and after use the silicone as u did. greets from sweden.
Hey Leif, yes, the same thought did occur to me. In this case I don't think it is going to be a huge issue as this was a pretty cheap boat and is living in the water full time on a island with rocky shores covered in oysters. Somehow don't think the transom is going to be the first thing to go. ;) Having said that, the next inflatable I get will be of a higher quality and in that case I will definitely go the epoxy route as I will be looking to make that boat really last.
@@DangarMarine you have a good point haha, never thought you reply, i would like to say, thanks to all good and well informed movies during the years, most i already know but i also learned allot, unfortunately i cant give any money but i try spread the channel to some who maby have "deeper pockets". Keep up the good work and when you done with the trawler please start fixing outboards again and maby start a other boat project :D. CHEERS!
Just wondering at 11:08 it looks like a copper line laying on a metal cross piece. Don't know what will be in the copper line, but maybe insulate it to keep it from rubbing on the steel. Lookin' good
Yes, it still needs to be insulated and secured properly.
I think keeping inlets well primed is set-and-forget advice. Flow can and should be mechanically alarm-switched anyway.
Yes, I've decided to go with a flow monitor.
Really enjoying the progress, can't wait to see the engine going in...cheers!
Next video for sure. (ie. it's in now)
@@DangarMarine any idea when the vid will be up? 👍🏻
All thru hull holes should be above the waterline unless they have to be below. That and you can see it when starting the boat long before your temp gauge hits red or steam starts flowing out of the motor box.
Yes, some indication that the water is flowing would be very good to have.
@@DangarMarine Dude, I 'm serious. I have wet exhaust in all my boats and always walk to the transom to make sure the water is flowing when I first drop them in. Maybe not so much the rest of the day after the first start (I can hear if there is a change in the exhaust tone) but after they sit you never know what can happen. A valve left closed, vain in the water pump took a shit after sitting.... Heat exchangers wont tell you crap until they are glowing red or smoking. I would want the drain out the transom being you use a tender, a few inches above the waterline. Get it started, take a walk to the transom to make sure you have flow and anything else you want to check on and then you are off for the day.
The excitement grows!
Bilge rat approves of your hard work in the engine compartment :) That cheeky little gobble guts ate them all lol.
She is top of the pecking order and seems to be quite happy with that arrangement. :)
Great vid as normal Stu, AND !! A new clock in the wheelhouse woo hoo, now what about the home workshop clock ?.
Hope the Detroit goes in OK .
Thanks mate. Engine went in OK, heading off today to grab a chain hoist so I can start doing the final alignment.
The excitement and expectation is growing! Looking forward to see the engine in his place. Cheers mate! (Nice chicken ending ;)
See you finally got your new clock up on the boat.
My father was in the RAAF on crash boats in 1943. I herd a story of a ghost boat, every morning it would try to start. Winding over with nobody on board. Turns out the starter solinid was wires up , condensation was forming and shorting the starter.
That would be really freaky!