Hey Stu, Thank you for the videos! I was watching this one, just minding my own business and you dropped the KY story - had to stop the show for a minute. You made my day man.
When working in Key West, FL as a Caterpillar Marine Mechanic, (1976 to 1984), many of the head boats that did charter fishing in shallow waters around the mangroves had problems with their sea strainers plugging. I came up with an idea to replace their trim tabs on the transoms with a longer/wider one that was also hollow 1 3/4 inch thick. I had Steve's Welding on Stock Island make these of Aluminum with thin aluminum strips put inside to direct coolant back and forth from one corner close to the outside near the transom to the inside close to the transom. A coolant fitting was welded at these two points. Each engines coolant went to each skin cooler with radiator hoses connected to a thru-hull above the water level in the transom. They were hinged and adjusted just like any other trim tabs but coolant was cooled directly from the engine water pump without a heat exchanger, rubber impeller pump or a sea strainer. I talked to several trim tab companies and non had any idea what I was talking about. There are still two boats I put these cooling trim tabs still operating in Key West.
Hey Stu, Hope you’re in good health! My boyfriend is a dedicated watcher of you channel. We are quarantined and he is driving me up the wall. Please update soon! I might not make it...
True story: watching this video in a restaurant with headphones, at the moment Stu is holding the KY the waitress comes by and looks down at my phone and awkwardly at me. 🤦♂️
Been subscribed for awhile and really following the steel trawler restore. I've learned for gasket maker and RTV in general you get a much better seal by spreading it around then tapping your finger lightly around the surface. This give it an air gap around the peaks of the RTV to allow for better expansion. There's several good video on youtube showing the results of both and the surface area after it spreading out. A small easy to access flange is one thing but on something like motorcycle gear case it keeps from having to do the work twice.
@@tishbrett after a google search for said bird it is written they are less than palatable, and as a native, relocating was very responsible of Sir Stu
Reminds me of the two old maids asking the grocer how much is two zucchinis. He said 3 for a dollar. One old maid said to the other I suppose we could eat one.
I'm looking forward to doing the exhaust now. I know it is going to have its challenges, particularly in that cramped space, but it will be nice to see it done.
@@DangarMarine too bad you can't cut away part of the deck above the exhaust for easy access, then reweld it back over the exhaust pipe..... just like heart, sorry colon surgery on one of us! Haha
Having been a plumber in a previous life, I was telling you to "Go get a Half inch BSP brass plug, bore it out and tap it to whatever you need". Then from out of your hat you pull out a half inch brass plug. Wonderful medium this You Tube, it even carries mental telepathic waves. "Where Do Ya Get it" NPT tap that is....??? Blackwoods or any good engineering supiies stores hould have any amount of NPT taps for that little job of drill and tapping that plug. If you get a drill larger that the tap size you can drill out the underside of the half inch plug so that there will be sufficient water flow around the sensor I think Stu. Pity I don't live close as I have a lathe and can do all those sorts of jobs in less time than it takes to think about it. You're going well mate. Looking forward to the first sea trials. I enjoy the little update on the D squad each episode also. Thanks mate.
A suggestion about your probe adapter, drill and tap your plug for the probe and then remove the material from the threaded end of the plug. Them take it to your local machinist and have him re cut the pipe threads to get proper amount of threads. This way you don't need any special socket down the line.
Stu your timing is impeccable, was just having a spot of brunch when you came out with the KY story, almost choked trying to swallow and laugh at same time
Looking good!!! Easiest way I found for priming a jabsco, was to shut of the sea cock, take the top of the the strainer and pour in water until everything is full, put the top on the strainer so the system is sealed, then open the sea cock and go for a start. The pump will have water immediately then. Works well if you just come of the hard stand and you dont need to worry about the lube drying out! Looking forward to seeing the boat move under it own power.
Anzor Fasteners in Brisbane will have the NPT to BSP adapter in 316 st/st, I work for one of the NZ branches. If the NPT size is 1/2" you can use a BSP one instead as they have the same TPI. Hope this helps.
Putting different fitting together can be fun. I have had to adapt oxygen tank, or fire extinguisher tank fittings to BSP (for air cannons) before. I just drilled them, cut them, and brazed them together. Brazing is more than strong enough for either air, or water fittings. This way, you don't have to worry about finding specialty taps or dies.
Stu those Vetus Couplings are great, Old perkins 4154 with 10,000hours on her and only had to change the rubber bushes once in it. Note for future( if you pull it apart after several hundred hours ) mark which rubber bushes go where ! nice progress this week ! keep up the good work!
For quality taps I use LPR toolmakers Len and the boys are pretty good switched on and helpful their advice has got me out of a pickle once or twice. If you have any can't get an adapter sorted locally yell out.
Cut 10mm off the end of the pipe adaptor and run a larger drill in the water end, to create a slight cavity. The end of the sensor can be partially shrouded without issues for the sensor to work.
Stu, a friend made a stainless steel box (Sea Chest) too hold the right amount of sea water, then put a top with gasket, and put 4 hose connectors in the top for different equipment. then into sea filters and into the equipment. so all he had to do is put the box leveled and connect the bottom to the out side. saved a lot of problems.
Stu, Regarding your brackets you made. You may want to put a brace on the angle iron. When they fill with water and the boat is rocking in high seas it will act like a fulcrum lever and might break the weld. A piece if flat stock might work as a gusset and not rely 100 on the weld to resist the fulcrum. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for posting all of these videos. I love them.
I was thinking about gussets but I'm actually starting to lean towards a third brace going up to the deck beams. I'll take a look and see which will work best.
I love the way the attention to detail hasn't slipped either. I am sure now the temptation to cut corners is very high, stick with it or something will fail prematurely all it could cost heaps and sideline you for way too long
Ha! _Bilge rat_ and 'is life vest! Nevermind the KY and, 3-zuchinis! Just the kind of thing we need, these days! Thanks Stu and, to folks like you and Scott at BusGreaseMonkey - doing what you do and, sharing it with us... seems to have taken on a whole new, greater significance! (just me?) Best regards and, cheers-
Wow! Nice Bush turkey story. When you say that you took it to the mainland is that a euphemism like "don't worry soon the dog has gone to the farm". Those birds are delicious!
You've come a long way on this rebuild in what I reckon is quick time. Soon it will be off on some interesting and fun times exploring diving and fishing
It's funny, in some ways it feels like it has been a very long project but when I consider the bigger projects that Doug and Damien and Jess have taken on I guess it has gone quite quickly.
I think Hare and Forbes have the taps in their catalog .With the coupler sleeve you may be able to remove the tapered flange off the prop shaft that has the correct taper and have it machined down to fit inside the new coupling
Hey Stu they make some fireproof spill mats for Barbeque grills that might work well under the engine but test it with a lighter first. I believe they are made of carbon felt.
Love the workboots for welding and all of the safety gear, who would have thought that oil absorbent mats placed underneath welding would catch fire ? Its just the aussie way. Love your work.
Great stuff Stu. Your video's have inspired me to refurbish an old girl that I came my way recently. Thank you and please keep up the great and entertaining work. Say g'day if you are ever in Kiama. Regards, Dave.
i am changing the water pump impellor and rebuilding the carby on my very low hour 77 johnson 35 horse motor...serioudly less than 200 hrs on the motor...sat for over 20 years...
You can use what's called a thermal well for your temperature sensor. It protrudes into the coolant flow, and the sensor fits into it. They are made in BSP and NPT. You could install your sensor into BSP on a thermal well, because the sensor is isolated from the actual coolant. Google thermal well for info. They are widely used. Greg
Hi Stu I’ve seen a boat where they welded a tube to the inside of skin and cut it off above the water line. So the seacocks were all above the waterline and required very little servicing and lasted for the life of the boat. Also no water ingress when servicing or replacing. Might be a good idea for Damian as well. André
That does make a lot of sense, particularly with braced pipes as you said. The big trouble is that the sea strainer is usually below the water line to help with priming.
I'm thinking: shorten the plug on both ends by a bit, put your sensor hole thru the middle, drill a fairly large recess hole in the top to allow the sensor to seat lower, get a cheapie Amazon/eBay NPT tap, and bada-boom, bada-bing, Bob's your Auntie! As for the ladies hanging out with you while you're in the shop, I'm betting that they're thinking with their stomachs. I'd wager that they know that if they hang out with you, they prolly stand a really good chance of scoring some tasty tidbits! Not to mention the fact that I'm pretty certain they feel safe with you there to protect them. Another fine episode!!! Thanks for sharing!
You could try a temperature sensor from a piece of agricultural equipment or heavy equipment, they use a bigger type of sending unit, it might match your system better. I have updated older motors like yours to electrical sensors before. You just need to find the right type of signals. You'll get there! Good luck!
One thing I haven't had a chance to do yet is learn about how to know if a sender and gauge are a matched pair. I presume there are standard resistances that map to temperatures.
@@DangarMarine I usually just hook them up, use a lighter or heat gun and see what happens after I do my homework, that way you don't loose antifreeze.
G'day stu. I've been loving ya gig virtually from the start...and love it. Im a retired naval arch, worked for 30 years in that jondra, love boats, fat ones, skinny ones, tall ones and short ones any materials cept fiberglass. Bloke you need a cam man to take some of the load of ya, check out 'acorn to arrabella' those blokes have got the system wired... keep up the GREAT work cheers
Yes, I was just thinking to today about the guys from Arabella having Alix film and another guy again to edit. Bliss! I did a video together with them while I was in the states.
Drill the proper size hole for the pipe tap all the way thru the brass plug Then counter bore the hole as big as you can till the tip of the sender extends out the brass plug then tap the smaller hole I used to make a bunch of werd adapters while working as a truck mechanic As long as you have correct taps and drills Its easy Banks tubo killing a duramax just showed a nice parker/racor fuel water separator really nice but a bit pricey
Hate to be a killjoy but glycerol (or glycerine) is main ingredient in KY . Westerbeke supply a little packet of glycerine with their impeller pump kits , glycerine sells for about $30/ gal......many many industrial , food and pharma uses...... was even used as antifreeze .....cheers Warren
I'm nursing slashed feet from running a dinghy sailing course for adults in Brisbane yesterday. I didn't realise till I left blood trails (from my feet) talking a comfort break at 3am. Boats on barnacles on rocks! We aren't tough, just too much of a woose to complain, after not being careful enough.
Gooday Stu. Being an Engineer myself And a lecturer of Engineering, Retired. It was surprising to note that O.S.H. and PC hasn't caught up with you folks In Dangar. LOL. Of course I am referring to those magnificent bare feet while you were welding at your bench. I won't attempt to lecture you on safety Equipment LOL.
Thanks Pieter Weatherall. Stu is 800 km south of me in the Hawkesbury, Australia. There are guys working on boats for another 3000km north of me. They just do not put stuff on RUclips. But they get things done. Maybe google 'Bush Mechanics' if you want to see some really interesting stuff? In Australia, we have RFDS to conduct aerial medevac if required. That's just part of our State and national medical system. www.flyingdoctor.org.au/qld/ frontierservices.org/about/history/
G'Day Stu..Worried about them bolts,well don't can get a loctite product called wick in,usually green and just add a little to expose threads and will seep in and stop bolt from coming loose, we used it to stop idle mixture screw from moving and still allow easy adjustment but would not turn with vibration,,Normal hand tools for removal,Have used it to seal porosity in castings as well,
G’day Stu well that cracked me up, it was a great video it’s looking good in the engine room poor chook getting bashed by a Bush turkey. Anyway good to see you and the boat and that’s a lovely place you live. Regards John
Great video, as always. Regarding the oil fill... Detroit has lots of engines with a fill port in the valve cover. If you have clearance, perhaps you can just cut a hole in your valve cover and weld in a fill port. Or get a new valve cover with the port already in there? The one on my 8V71 uses an expanding rubber stopper, which should work in your engine as well.
I took a look at the video where I removed the engine and the water pipe actually snuck just inside the filler cap so I'll try to recreate that arrangement. It is a great idea to find a rocker cover with a filler cap (or add one), that would actually be more accessible than the existing filler cap.
@@DangarMarine should have considered a reverso system before putting the engine in place. a hose from the drain plug to the reverso, a hose from the reverso that is loose at the other end. put loose end into an empty bucket and turn it on, oil pumped out of engine into bucket. change oil filter put loose end of hose into new bucket of oil and flip the rocker the other direction, oil pumped back into the engine. can also have a line to the transmission to handle it's fluids. but these need to be put in place before the fluids are in.
Bunnings Hardware has Gripset Betta 15L Bitumen Rubber Waterproofing Membrane 22.5 sqm Coverage for $132 which would deal with your water, rust, oil leaks below the engine & many other places that you can use to prevent sea water from rusting out the steel hull.
a little smear of silicone on the exposed threads will stop the nuts coming off if they do come loose (an old bike racing trick). getting closer mate, can't wait to see her cruise.
Cut a vee out on one flat of the angle iron, bend to adjusted angle, weld up the gap. Is that one or two cuts? Bend a lesser angle for the other side. Weld. Less sharp points to work with as well. Bracket done.
Here I go again just a quick idea, the brass sender plug could you not just chop 10 mm or so off the top, the hex head bit then drill and tap what you have left, in effect shortening the length of the brass adapter
Factory is a mechanical tripped plate not pretty if they run away your doing a great job my truck had a 8v92 turbo 15 speed 475 HP good site vancouver Canada
Thank you for another great video. Loved the KY and zucchini story, lol. Almost choked on a coffee cake when I heard it, lol. Finally had a sunny warm and dry day that hit 66*f here and got started on fabricating the fiberglass half cabin shell for my boat. That was last Wednesday. Been either pouring or windy and below 20*f here since, so 6hrs work was better than none. Hey, came up with an 'idea' for your boat seeing you are on the fire dept. How bout rigging up a deck gun that can be used to help fight boat fires out on the water or for helping wash down other boats?? Thanks again, keep up the awesome work and we shall see you in the next one. Oh, how are you guys getting along with the pandemic? We're holding our own here so far. Losts of media 'misinformation' but so far, all is ok.
It's always frustrating when the weather gets in the way of a project. I actually have a fire pump that we used when raising Andy's boat that will be living on the trawler once it gets underway. Great for fires and salvage work.
Hey Stu, Thank you for the videos! I was watching this one, just minding my own business and you dropped the KY story - had to stop the show for a minute. You made my day man.
Hi, regarding the brackets, you could cut a small section out of one leg of the angle then bend it and weld, cheers
Nice idea!
When working in Key West, FL as a Caterpillar Marine Mechanic, (1976 to 1984), many of the head boats that did charter fishing in shallow waters around the mangroves had problems with their sea strainers plugging. I came up with an idea to replace their trim tabs on the transoms with a longer/wider one that was also hollow 1 3/4 inch thick. I had Steve's Welding on Stock Island make these of Aluminum with thin aluminum strips put inside to direct coolant back and forth from one corner close to the outside near the transom to the inside close to the transom. A coolant fitting was welded at these two points. Each engines coolant went to each skin cooler with radiator hoses connected to a thru-hull above the water level in the transom. They were hinged and adjusted just like any other trim tabs but coolant was cooled directly from the engine water pump without a heat exchanger, rubber impeller pump or a sea strainer. I talked to several trim tab companies and non had any idea what I was talking about. There are still two boats I put these cooling trim tabs still operating in Key West.
There certainly are some clever designs for keel cooling around. I've always liked the idea of parts that serve two purposes like that.
She's coming along nicely mate 👌
Thanks Dean.
As much as i want you to finish this boat, i also dont want it to end, because these videos are soo damn goooooood.
Thanks mate. The good thing is boats like this are never finished, but it will be nice when it is usable!
Thanks Stu it’s all coming together now. That coupling sounds like a good investment.
Hey Stu,
Hope you’re in good health! My boyfriend is a dedicated watcher of you channel. We are quarantined and he is driving me up the wall. Please update soon!
I might not make it...
Great to see the steady progress Stu. It feels like it is all coming together. It will be great to get the exhaust assembled.
Thanks Brian, I'm really looking forward to the exhaust too.
Welding with bare feet. Total hardcore. I have never done that before. Dangar island sure is laid back! Tinker on with all those toy's!
Will never stop tinkering. ;)
True story: watching this video in a restaurant with headphones, at the moment Stu is holding the KY the waitress comes by and looks down at my phone and awkwardly at me. 🤦♂️
LMAO
Did she wink at you?
Dangar Marine no, just a disgusted wince..... 😖
salute as always for editing out all the swearing, or for somehow having inhuman patience with annoying mechanical problems
It's editing. ;)
Love the servicing paint, works for reconditioning as well.
Reconditioning needs two cans of paint.
Been subscribed for awhile and really following the steel trawler restore. I've learned for gasket maker and RTV in general you get a much better seal by spreading it around then tapping your finger lightly around the surface. This give it an air gap around the peaks of the RTV to allow for better expansion. There's several good video on youtube showing the results of both and the surface area after it spreading out. A small easy to access flange is one thing but on something like motorcycle gear case it keeps from having to do the work twice.
Sounds like an interesting technique.
The weekly adventures of Dottie, Daisy and Daffy........oh yeah Stu is fixing his boat
You were kinder to the bush turkey than most of us would have been.
Windword most would put the turkey in the dinner pot
@@tishbrett after a google search for said bird it is written they are less than palatable, and as a native, relocating was very responsible of Sir Stu
Gavin B they were a very wanted and tasty bird yrs ago great in a stew now because of this they are now protected
Reminds me of the two old maids asking the grocer how much is two zucchinis. He said 3 for a dollar. One old maid said to the other I suppose we could eat one.
Funny, as the cucumbers were on sale at half price...
LOL
I recently bought some npt taps on amazon here in the US. Tapped some aluminum for a heat sensor and it worked as one would expect.
Cool, I'll do a search on Amazon. Good to hear it worked well.
Make sure you need NPT and not NPS, made that mistake with a Nema 7 enclosure and some power buttons.
@@peterg.8245 So many different standards.
Maybe someone should come out and make another standard to unify everyone, wait....
@@DangarMarine Also look on Mcmaster Carr... www.mcmaster.com/stainless-steel-bspp-to-npt-pipe-adapters
I love the chicken updates!
Hot damn, raw water and dry exhaust, almost there!
I'm looking forward to doing the exhaust now. I know it is going to have its challenges, particularly in that cramped space, but it will be nice to see it done.
@@DangarMarine too bad you can't cut away part of the deck above the exhaust for easy access, then reweld it back over the exhaust pipe..... just like heart, sorry colon surgery on one of us! Haha
Leaving the angle in one piece and notching is stronger and more attractive. Cheers Adam
We used to use KY on our hair for 60s era Rock and Roll revivals, water soluble, it rinsed out more easily than anything else...
Having been a plumber in a previous life, I was telling you to "Go get a Half inch BSP brass plug, bore it out and tap it to whatever you need". Then from out of your hat you pull out a half inch brass plug. Wonderful medium this You Tube, it even carries mental telepathic waves. "Where Do Ya Get it" NPT tap that is....???
Blackwoods or any good engineering supiies stores hould have any amount of NPT taps for that little job of drill and tapping that plug. If you get a drill larger that the tap size you can drill out the underside of the half inch plug so that there will be sufficient water flow around the sensor I think Stu. Pity I don't live close as I have a lathe and can do all those sorts of jobs in less time than it takes to think about it.
You're going well mate. Looking forward to the first sea trials. I enjoy the little update on the D squad each episode also. Thanks mate.
Sorry re he spelling of Supplies. Old eyes, that's all.
Thanks Bruce. Great minds think alike. ;)
A suggestion about your probe adapter, drill and tap your plug for the probe and then remove the material from the threaded end of the plug. Them take it to your local machinist and have him re cut the pipe threads to get proper amount of threads. This way you don't need any special socket down the line.
Stu your timing is impeccable, was just having a spot of brunch when you came out with the KY story, almost choked trying to swallow and laugh at same time
LOL :)
Looking good!!!
Easiest way I found for priming a jabsco, was to shut of the sea cock, take the top of the the strainer and pour in water until everything is full, put the top on the strainer so the system is sealed, then open the sea cock and go for a start. The pump will have water immediately then. Works well if you just come of the hard stand and you dont need to worry about the lube drying out!
Looking forward to seeing the boat move under it own power.
Yes, have certainly done the same thing many times.
Anzor Fasteners in Brisbane will have the NPT to BSP adapter in 316 st/st, I work for one of the NZ branches. If the NPT size is 1/2" you can use a BSP one instead as they have the same TPI. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tips!
Yes the thread count is the same but BSP is a55deg thread and NPT Is 60deg thread if I recall correctly
Told the KY story to my wife, haven't seen her laugh like that for a while,
Putting different fitting together can be fun. I have had to adapt oxygen tank, or fire extinguisher tank fittings to BSP (for air cannons) before. I just drilled them, cut them, and brazed them together. Brazing is more than strong enough for either air, or water fittings. This way, you don't have to worry about finding specialty taps or dies.
Looks like I'm going to be doing a similar thing brazing a new fitting to my old fuel line.
Stu those Vetus Couplings are great, Old perkins 4154 with 10,000hours on her and only had to change the rubber bushes once in it. Note for future( if you pull it apart after several hundred hours ) mark which rubber bushes go where ! nice progress this week ! keep up the good work!
Almost enjoy how you wrap these up the chickens the most. 😁👍
For quality taps I use LPR toolmakers Len and the boys are pretty good switched on and helpful their advice has got me out of a pickle once or twice. If you have any can't get an adapter sorted locally yell out.
I wish i had half your skills man.
Excellent work !
Very good progress, excited to see when you can finally enjoy the fruits of your labor. Nice job buddy!
Thanks mate, getting there one step at a time.
Good captain. The safety of your crew first Rat vest was very responsible.
They came with big resivours for cooling up front top. 3 inch hose connect
These babes are no joke
Cut 10mm off the end of the pipe adaptor and run a larger drill in the water end, to create a slight cavity. The end of the sensor can be partially shrouded without issues for the sensor to work.
Stu, a friend made a stainless steel box (Sea Chest) too hold the right amount of sea water, then put a top with gasket, and put 4 hose connectors in the top for different equipment. then into sea filters and into the equipment. so all he had to do is put the box leveled and connect the bottom to the out side. saved a lot of problems.
A seachest certainly is a great way to go. If I was building a boat from scratch I bought definitely build one in.
Stu,
Regarding your brackets you made. You may want to put a brace on the angle iron. When they fill with water and the boat is rocking in high seas it will act like a fulcrum lever and might break the weld. A piece if flat stock might work as a gusset and not rely 100 on the weld to resist the fulcrum. Just my 2 cents. Thanks for posting all of these videos. I love them.
I was thinking about gussets but I'm actually starting to lean towards a third brace going up to the deck beams. I'll take a look and see which will work best.
Man that engine bay is looking tidy. That service in a can really does wonders.
Love all the hard work! its inspiration to keep at my own projects.
Thanks mate. It is hard to stay motivated sometimes which is why I watch other people's projects too. :)
I love the way the attention to detail hasn't slipped either. I am sure now the temptation to cut corners is very high, stick with it or something will fail prematurely all it could cost heaps and sideline you for way too long
Love it. Thanks Dangar Stu.
Ha! _Bilge rat_ and 'is life vest! Nevermind the KY and, 3-zuchinis! Just the kind of thing we need, these days! Thanks Stu and, to folks like you and Scott at BusGreaseMonkey - doing what you do and, sharing it with us... seems to have taken on a whole new, greater significance! (just me?)
Best regards and, cheers-
Thanks mate, glad you've been enjoying. :)
Thanks for another great episode of barefoot arc welding! Your a brave man!
D-Squad! for the win. Great vid....itching to see this beast steaming under her own power. Keep it up Stu!
Wow! Nice Bush turkey story. When you say that you took it to the mainland is that a euphemism like "don't worry soon the dog has gone to the farm". Those birds are delicious!
Nice work Stu!!! That’s semi intricate work but hey your moving ahead!!!! Won’t be long now that maiden voyage will arrive soon!!!!
Thanks mate. Hoping for the first voyage in a few weeks now depending on the arrival of parts I need.
You've come a long way on this rebuild in what I reckon is quick time. Soon it will be off on some interesting and fun times exploring diving and fishing
It's funny, in some ways it feels like it has been a very long project but when I consider the bigger projects that Doug and Damien and Jess have taken on I guess it has gone quite quickly.
man you are in the short rows now, bout ready to sail
Had a good laugh at the KY tale. Cheers Stu.
I think Hare and Forbes have the taps in their catalog .With the coupler sleeve you may be able to remove the tapered flange off the prop shaft that has the correct taper and have it machined down to fit inside the new coupling
Here is an Idea mount a loop above the roller to keep the rope in place and on the roller so the rope doesn't end up on the rails.
I like your optimism, you crossed off a task before finishing :)) getting closer to start motoring! Cheers
Well, I was cheating a little bit in that that section was filmed at the very end so I knew that it was done. ;)
If you can find a bolt of the same size of your sending unit you can use that for a tap. Brass is soft. In, out, in, out. It will go.
Hey Stu they make some fireproof spill mats for Barbeque grills that might work well under the engine but test it with a lighter first. I believe they are made of carbon felt.
Bilge rat life jacket is the best
Whew! That was a great idea to give Billy a life jacket! He could have drowned down there, down under.
For the longest time i always thought he said hey guys dingo stew here
Its not?
Love the workboots for welding and all of the safety gear, who would have thought that oil absorbent mats placed underneath welding would catch fire ? Its just the aussie way. Love your work.
Great stuff Stu. Your video's have inspired me to refurbish an old girl that I came my way recently. Thank you and please keep up the great and entertaining work. Say g'day if you are ever in Kiama. Regards, Dave.
Thanks mate. Good luck with your project!
i am changing the water pump impellor and rebuilding the carby on my very low hour 77 johnson 35 horse motor...serioudly less than 200 hrs on the motor...sat for over 20 years...
You can use what's called a thermal well for your temperature sensor. It protrudes into the coolant flow, and the sensor fits into it. They are made in BSP and NPT. You could install your sensor into BSP on a thermal well, because the sensor is isolated from the actual coolant. Google thermal well for info. They are widely used. Greg
Thanks mate, I'll look into it.
Hi Stu
I’ve seen a boat where they welded a tube to the inside of skin and cut it off above the water line. So the seacocks were all above the waterline and required very little servicing and lasted for the life of the boat. Also no water ingress when servicing or replacing. Might be a good idea for Damian as well. André
Till the welded tube breaks at the skin. Then you lose your boat. Not quite professional standard.
Tony Rigby they braced all the tubes so they would never brake. André
That does make a lot of sense, particularly with braced pipes as you said. The big trouble is that the sea strainer is usually below the water line to help with priming.
I'm thinking: shorten the plug on both ends by a bit, put your sensor hole thru the middle, drill a fairly large recess hole in the top to allow the sensor to seat lower, get a cheapie Amazon/eBay NPT tap, and bada-boom, bada-bing, Bob's your Auntie! As for the ladies hanging out with you while you're in the shop, I'm betting that they're thinking with their stomachs. I'd wager that they know that if they hang out with you, they prolly stand a really good chance of scoring some tasty tidbits! Not to mention the fact that I'm pretty certain they feel safe with you there to protect them. Another fine episode!!! Thanks for sharing!
If you increase the length of the hose coming of the raw water pump by about 15cm the water route will then go around the outside of the filler cap.
You could try a temperature sensor from a piece of agricultural equipment or heavy equipment, they use a bigger type of sending unit, it might match your system better. I have updated older motors like yours to electrical sensors before. You just need to find the right type of signals. You'll get there! Good luck!
One thing I haven't had a chance to do yet is learn about how to know if a sender and gauge are a matched pair. I presume there are standard resistances that map to temperatures.
@@DangarMarine I usually just hook them up, use a lighter or heat gun and see what happens after I do my homework, that way you don't loose antifreeze.
G'day stu. I've been loving ya gig virtually from the start...and love it. Im a retired naval arch, worked for 30 years in that jondra, love boats, fat ones, skinny ones, tall ones and short ones any materials cept fiberglass. Bloke you need a cam man to take some of the load of ya, check out 'acorn to arrabella' those blokes have got the system wired... keep up the GREAT work cheers
Yes, I was just thinking to today about the guys from Arabella having Alix film and another guy again to edit. Bliss! I did a video together with them while I was in the states.
Drill the proper size hole for the pipe tap all the way thru the brass plug
Then counter bore the hole as big as you can till the tip of the sender extends out the brass plug then tap the smaller hole I used to make a bunch of werd adapters while working as a truck mechanic
As long as you have correct taps and drills
Its easy
Banks tubo killing a duramax just showed a nice parker/racor fuel water separator really nice but a bit pricey
Hate to be a killjoy but glycerol (or glycerine) is main ingredient in KY . Westerbeke supply a little packet of glycerine with their impeller pump kits , glycerine sells for about $30/ gal......many many industrial , food and pharma uses...... was even used as antifreeze .....cheers Warren
I like your industrial grade work boots.
Welding barefoot in an enclosed space is so metal. Australians are tough as nails.
I'm nursing slashed feet from running a dinghy sailing course for adults in Brisbane yesterday. I didn't realise till I left blood trails (from my feet) talking a comfort break at 3am. Boats on barnacles on rocks!
We aren't tough, just too much of a woose to complain, after not being careful enough.
Ah, I've had a few oyster cuts myself. Nasty!
Gooday Stu. Being an Engineer myself And a lecturer of Engineering, Retired. It was surprising to note that O.S.H. and PC hasn't caught up with you folks In Dangar. LOL. Of course I am referring to those magnificent bare feet while you were welding at your bench. I won't attempt to lecture you on safety Equipment LOL.
Pieter Weatherall safer to weld in bare feet than wearing thongs the hotties get stuck in thongs and burn your feet harder to kick out
Thanks Pieter Weatherall. Stu is 800 km south of me in the Hawkesbury, Australia. There are guys working on boats for another 3000km north of me. They just do not put stuff on RUclips. But they get things done.
Maybe google 'Bush Mechanics' if you want to see some really interesting stuff?
In Australia, we have RFDS to conduct aerial medevac if required.
That's just part of our State and national medical system.
www.flyingdoctor.org.au/qld/
frontierservices.org/about/history/
If you want stainless hose clamps you have to go to stainless shop or Whitworths or similar.Adam auto clamps have M/S bolts
That red rtv really sticks up a joint
KY jelly and the zuchinni story is the funniest thing I have heard in a long time. LMAO!!!
I service my engines exactly the same way Stu. I also rebuilt my son's TTR50 recently using the same method. Hahaha
reconditioned by Dulux A cheaper paint just isn't as good
G'Day Stu..Worried about them bolts,well don't can get a loctite product called wick in,usually green and just add a little to expose threads and will seep in and stop bolt from coming loose,
we used it to stop idle mixture screw from moving and still allow easy adjustment but would not turn with vibration,,Normal hand tools for removal,Have used it to seal porosity in castings as well,
I think that a drip pan with a drain into a transparent reservoir at the low point would be a good replacement for the oil absorbent mats.
That Raymarine unit looks really nice.
I am looking forward to using it more one we're underway.
G’day Stu well that cracked me up, it was a great video it’s looking good in the engine room poor chook getting bashed by a Bush turkey. Anyway good to see you and the boat and that’s a lovely place you live. Regards John
Stu tells store clerk "The zucchinis are for my wife, and the KY is for me!!!". ROTF
Looking good !!
KY Jelly & 3 Zucchinis.... just another weekend on Renco!
Great video, as always. Regarding the oil fill... Detroit has lots of engines with a fill port in the valve cover. If you have clearance, perhaps you can just cut a hole in your valve cover and weld in a fill port. Or get a new valve cover with the port already in there? The one on my 8V71 uses an expanding rubber stopper, which should work in your engine as well.
I took a look at the video where I removed the engine and the water pipe actually snuck just inside the filler cap so I'll try to recreate that arrangement. It is a great idea to find a rocker cover with a filler cap (or add one), that would actually be more accessible than the existing filler cap.
@@DangarMarine should have considered a reverso system before putting the engine in place.
a hose from the drain plug to the reverso, a hose from the reverso that is loose at the other end. put loose end into an empty bucket and turn it on, oil pumped out of engine into bucket. change oil filter put loose end of hose into new bucket of oil and flip the rocker the other direction, oil pumped back into the engine. can also have a line to the transmission to handle it's fluids.
but these need to be put in place before the fluids are in.
Bunnings Hardware has Gripset Betta 15L Bitumen Rubber Waterproofing Membrane 22.5 sqm Coverage for $132 which would deal with your water, rust, oil leaks below the engine & many other places that you can use to prevent sea water from rusting out the steel hull.
... and that concludes another episode of Barefoot Welding with Stu
a little smear of silicone on the exposed threads will stop the nuts coming off if they do come loose (an old bike racing trick). getting closer mate, can't wait to see her cruise.
You had me ROFLOL with the KY jelly and Zucchini story.....too funny!
Once again priceless........All going well mate
Cut a vee out on one flat of the angle iron, bend to adjusted angle, weld up the gap. Is that one or two cuts? Bend a lesser angle for the other side. Weld. Less sharp points to work with as well. Bracket done.
Nice work! Looking forward to seeing everything buttoned up and good as new.
When you spray painted the valve cover I got a good laugh, I'll admit.
GM Alpine Green is a gasket substitute, lay it on thick enough and it stops oil leaks
Here I go again just a quick idea, the brass sender plug could you not just chop 10 mm or so off the top, the hex head bit then drill and tap what you have left, in effect shortening the length of the brass adapter
I could watch chickens scratch the ground all day, pretty fun to watch them work.
good on you Mate!
😄 zukes and Ky. Sounds like your going to have quite the night.
At least they were zucchini’s and not butter nut squash! Great show.
Factory is a mechanical tripped plate not pretty if they run away your doing a great job my truck had a 8v92 turbo 15 speed 475 HP good site vancouver Canada
Thank you for another great video. Loved the KY and zucchini story, lol. Almost choked on a coffee cake when I heard it, lol. Finally had a sunny warm and dry day that hit 66*f here and got started on fabricating the fiberglass half cabin shell for my boat. That was last Wednesday. Been either pouring or windy and below 20*f here since, so 6hrs work was better than none. Hey, came up with an 'idea' for your boat seeing you are on the fire dept. How bout rigging up a deck gun that can be used to help fight boat fires out on the water or for helping wash down other boats?? Thanks again, keep up the awesome work and we shall see you in the next one. Oh, how are you guys getting along with the pandemic? We're holding our own here so far. Losts of media 'misinformation' but so far, all is ok.
It's always frustrating when the weather gets in the way of a project. I actually have a fire pump that we used when raising Andy's boat that will be living on the trawler once it gets underway. Great for fires and salvage work.
That gasket jointing paste mate. After applying, make up the flanged joint but don't tighten fully. Allow the paste to go off then tighten down.
19:05 That's where the self checkout becomes useful .
LOL
Only until the computer flags an "adult" product for age verification... Flashing lights, store associates... etc...
hi nice work the boat is looking very good
Thanks mate.