Espar B4L M2 Installation on Ford Transit

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  • Опубликовано: 19 дек 2024

Комментарии • 18

  • @sparkypks
    @sparkypks 5 дней назад

    Thank you!

    • @Luke-f3j
      @Luke-f3j  2 дня назад +1

      You're very welcome. There is a lot going on with these heater installations!

  • @patweidmann6804
    @patweidmann6804 7 месяцев назад

    I just recently bought a 2023 Transit HR Ex Trail. I have not yet got to the heater portion of my planning for the build, yet was planning on installing in the same place as you. I was under the impression that Ford has a port already installed on the top of the fuel tank to tap into. Still need to lower the tank to access it however. Am I misinformed?

    • @Luke-f3j
      @Luke-f3j  7 месяцев назад

      Hi - Yes there is a standpipe available in the fuel "sending unit" / pump assembly. However it is a much larger diameter than what the Espar needs. The Espar pump is sized to accommodate a flow range, and it might be the case that the standpipe provided with the sending unit will work just fine. But the company I ordered from recommended to get a more appropriately sized standpipe, so I did. But again the existing standpipe might work fine. Having said all of that, installing the standpipe from the kit was not a problem if you take your time and work carefully. It's been 6 months now and no issues for us. Good luck !!

  • @crowlsyung
    @crowlsyung 7 месяцев назад

    Great video! Thanks for sharing. Super useful resource for my AS3-B2L install. I haven't picked up the AVC trim ring - I'm hoping the B2L is small enough to finagle without.
    I noticed that the AVC install videos on instagram route both the fuel line and fuel pump electric wires over the heat shield towards the driver side (coming out from under the heater). I see that your method routed the fuel line under the heat shield and the electric over the heat shield. Any specific reason you decided on that routing?

    • @Luke-f3j
      @Luke-f3j  7 месяцев назад +1

      That is a great question. When I inspected the proximity of the fuel line to the very hot exhaust heat shield, it made me nervous. After some thought I routed the fuel below all of that, as you noted. I'm not saying that routing over the exhaust shield is dangerous - it was just my choice not to.
      The Espar manual states that the pump can accommodate a relative large "pressure head" from the pump to the heater. See page 24 of the installation manual. So I proceeded on the assumption that the pump would not struggle to deliver around the "dip" in the routing. So far there are no problems and I am happy with the decision.
      Regarding the pump wire - as the video covers - I wish I had routed the wire on the inside of the van over to the drivers side. But I had already routed it over the exhaust shield (but well protected in its own heat sleeve). So far no issues. If I had done that, then there would be nothing routed above the exhaust heat shield.
      Good luck with your project - so many challenges. Take your time!

    • @crowlsyung
      @crowlsyung 7 месяцев назад

      @@Luke-f3j Thanks for the reply : ). Your reasoning makes a lot of sense. It's a very complex install. I'm DEEEP in the manual reading process as I write this.
      Two more questions for you.
      Did you do anything specifically to seal up connections around the van floor. I see some orange-ish looking sealant around the mounting plate connections. Did you seal the entire mounting plate?
      It looks like the mounting plate comes with hex head self tapping screws. You mention using rivet nuts in your video to fasten the adapter plate. How did the rivnut usage go?
      Appreciate the info! - Cory

    • @Luke-f3j
      @Luke-f3j  7 месяцев назад +1

      @@crowlsyung Hi - I used Permatex 81878 high-temp sealant here and there. I used it around the 4 rivet nuts that I installed and possibly around all of the holes that I cut (probably not needed). The main treatments for cut holes were a good cleaning, then prime and paint. I actually used a high-temp spray paint from an auto store.
      I did use rivet-nuts instead of the included self-tapping screws. One of the rivet-nuts spun-out when I installed the bolts. So I had to remove the rivet-nut and install a new one. What a pain that was. Even though rivet-nuts are not supposed to spin-out - they do sometimes. I recommend a dap of epoxy on the outer rim of the rivet nut and let it sit to cure thoroughly. But yes - rivet nuts were a good call. And be sure to let your primers and paints completely cure.

  • @scotttannehill3533
    @scotttannehill3533 8 месяцев назад

    I really appreciate the video of your work. I have the exact same vehicle and heater. I am planning on installing them it the same spot. My question though is you mention concern about running the pump power wire across the exhaust system, but you are running your fuel line across the exhaust system? Seems like the fuel line would be a bigger concern? Fire vs loss of power to you heater pump. Am I missing something here?

    • @Luke-f3j
      @Luke-f3j  8 месяцев назад +1

      The fuel line is routed across the van on a chassis beam below the exhaust system. Later I will look to see if I covered that in the video. I’ll give a better reply soon. Good luck with your project. I’m still working on our van.

    • @scotttannehill3533
      @scotttannehill3533 8 месяцев назад

      The fuel line looks to be only a couple of inches from the bottom of the exhaust pipe. The heat shield wrap is a good thing. Perhaps installing a metal shield like the factory shield above the exhaust would be a good idea?

    • @Luke-f3j
      @Luke-f3j  8 месяцев назад

      @@scotttannehill3533 Hmmm that doesn't sound right. The fuel line goes down from the heater and crosses the chassis well below the exhaust system. That's the main reason that I like the routing. Maybe I need to clarify that. Sorry - been distracted with tasks lately.

  • @crowlsyung
    @crowlsyung 7 месяцев назад

    Hey Luke, got another question for you. I just finished up my install (ruclips.net/video/gKKKpEl2vEc/видео.htmlsi=LkohMyZYGMm6JfhZ).
    In your video you mention routing the fresh air intake line near a cavity under the exhaust. I currently have mind routed to the passenger side about 4 feet closer to the front of the van that the exhaust hose. I'm a little worried about exhaust air getting blown into the fresh air intake, so I'm considering moving the fresh air hose.
    How has that fresh air hose placement been for you? Have you had any issues with the close proximity to the hot vehicle exhaust pipe? Thanks!

    • @Luke-f3j
      @Luke-f3j  7 месяцев назад +1

      Hey nice video! I am back home and I will make a short video that clarifies my under-van routing. I guess I did not do a good job on that 🙂 But we have not had any issues with the placement. Just used the van again at 7,000 feet on a ski trip. I love that Espar heater !

    • @Luke-f3j
      @Luke-f3j  7 месяцев назад +1

      Hi - Today I put together a quick clarification of the exhaust routing etc:
      ruclips.net/video/xnV1zcgs48E/видео.html

    • @crowlsyung
      @crowlsyung 7 месяцев назад

      @@Luke-f3j love it thanks for sharing!

  • @Noisycowonline
    @Noisycowonline 8 месяцев назад

    Everyone is hyped about cheap Chinese heaters. $1500 vs $200. I am cheap, but this really doesn't seem like an item to scrimp over.

    • @Luke-f3j
      @Luke-f3j  Месяц назад

      Hi and sorry for the late reply. Anyway I am with you on this - especially when you really are counting on the heater to function in more remote settings. They say "cry once, buy once" !