Видео

Hi - The skis are fanned out so that they all fit - The main issue being length but the bindings also present obstacles. The bed is 5 feet wide but the skis are nearly 6 feet long. The only hope to get them all in is to take advantage of the toe kick area. By fanning them out, they barely fit but they do fit. Honestly I can hardly believe that this works.

You're very welcome. There is a lot going on with these heater installations!

Hi - Thanks for the comment! Be sure to share any van build you are doing in Jamaica.

Hi - Thanks for the comment! I will improve this video soon I hope with more info. For now, the locks are: HEOSolutions and can be found thru "Expedition Upfitter". Warning: These will NOT fit to lock the sliding door of a "Long" Transit if there is a flare installed. We had to use a combination lock and drill the steel slider. There is simply no flat place to install them aft of the sliding door. BUT they work great for the rear, passenger and driver doors. The WeBoost that we have is "WeBoost Drive". Frankly not sure yet if it was worth it. The swivel fitting is 'Rhino-Rack Folding Aerial Bracket'. Very much overpriced. Find an alternative if you can.

Thanks so much! Greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Good question and the answer is that we don't. But I do wonder how these panels will hold up in hail. I guess if they get damaged we will have to replace them. It's only been 1 year or so and they've only been out in heavy rain and heavy snow but not hail. For now we will hope for the best.

Tks for sharing! Bit of a newb w questions. When, where & how do you get rid of your grey water? Can you just empty it on the dirt or does it need to be managed? 2nd q - how are the carpeted walls working out for you & why did you choose them vs. wood etc. Thanks again!

@@joeyt684 Hi - Thanks for watching! It's funny how my video for a few friends and family has spread a bit. OK - Our grey water is the small container below the sink. So in practice in contains washing /rinsing water with minimal soap from dish washing. It also contains the results of brushing teeth. Not much else. So based on that we just drain it while on the road. The remote switch over the passenger head is great for that. We empty the container once per day and we do it on the road in the morning usually. If we are in a campground (seldom) for more than 1 day then we do leave the campground to empty since it seems un-cool to empty the container in the camp spot. The carpeted walls are working out pretty well. I would say to be sure to apply adequate adhesive when you do this. We have had some "separation" but this has been easy to fix so far. This approach is much cheaper, lighter and faster than traditional wooden interiors. Good luck! Building out a van is fun but take your time and if I can help please let me know.

Thank you! Yup the Transit has been a great van indeed in all seasons.

Thanks bro :-) It sure is fun to work on a van build.

Hey nice video! I am back home and I will make a short video that clarifies my under-van routing. I guess I did not do a good job on that 🙂 But we have not had any issues with the placement. Just used the van again at 7,000 feet on a ski trip. I love that Espar heater !

Hi - Today I put together a quick clarification of the exhaust routing etc: ruclips.net/video/xnV1zcgs48E/видео.html

@@Luke-f3j love it thanks for sharing!

That is a great question. When I inspected the proximity of the fuel line to the very hot exhaust heat shield, it made me nervous. After some thought I routed the fuel below all of that, as you noted. I'm not saying that routing over the exhaust shield is dangerous - it was just my choice not to. The Espar manual states that the pump can accommodate a relative large "pressure head" from the pump to the heater. See page 24 of the installation manual. So I proceeded on the assumption that the pump would not struggle to deliver around the "dip" in the routing. So far there are no problems and I am happy with the decision. Regarding the pump wire - as the video covers - I wish I had routed the wire on the inside of the van over to the drivers side. But I had already routed it over the exhaust shield (but well protected in its own heat sleeve). So far no issues. If I had done that, then there would be nothing routed above the exhaust heat shield. Good luck with your project - so many challenges. Take your time!

@@Luke-f3j Thanks for the reply : ). Your reasoning makes a lot of sense. It's a very complex install. I'm DEEEP in the manual reading process as I write this. Two more questions for you. Did you do anything specifically to seal up connections around the van floor. I see some orange-ish looking sealant around the mounting plate connections. Did you seal the entire mounting plate? It looks like the mounting plate comes with hex head self tapping screws. You mention using rivet nuts in your video to fasten the adapter plate. How did the rivnut usage go? Appreciate the info! - Cory

@@crowlsyung Hi - I used Permatex 81878 high-temp sealant here and there. I used it around the 4 rivet nuts that I installed and possibly around all of the holes that I cut (probably not needed). The main treatments for cut holes were a good cleaning, then prime and paint. I actually used a high-temp spray paint from an auto store. I did use rivet-nuts instead of the included self-tapping screws. One of the rivet-nuts spun-out when I installed the bolts. So I had to remove the rivet-nut and install a new one. What a pain that was. Even though rivet-nuts are not supposed to spin-out - they do sometimes. I recommend a dap of epoxy on the outer rim of the rivet nut and let it sit to cure thoroughly. But yes - rivet nuts were a good call. And be sure to let your primers and paints completely cure.

Hi - Yes there is a standpipe available in the fuel "sending unit" / pump assembly. However it is a much larger diameter than what the Espar needs. The Espar pump is sized to accommodate a flow range, and it might be the case that the standpipe provided with the sending unit will work just fine. But the company I ordered from recommended to get a more appropriately sized standpipe, so I did. But again the existing standpipe might work fine. Having said all of that, installing the standpipe from the kit was not a problem if you take your time and work carefully. It's been 6 months now and no issues for us. Good luck !!

Hi and sorry for the late reply. Anyway I am with you on this - especially when you really are counting on the heater to function in more remote settings. They say "cry once, buy once" !

The fuel line is routed across the van on a chassis beam below the exhaust system. Later I will look to see if I covered that in the video. I’ll give a better reply soon. Good luck with your project. I’m still working on our van.

The fuel line looks to be only a couple of inches from the bottom of the exhaust pipe. The heat shield wrap is a good thing. Perhaps installing a metal shield like the factory shield above the exhaust would be a good idea?

@@scotttannehill3533 Hmmm that doesn't sound right. The fuel line goes down from the heater and crosses the chassis well below the exhaust system. That's the main reason that I like the routing. Maybe I need to clarify that. Sorry - been distracted with tasks lately.