I probably would be thinking about selling my boat if it were not for your videos! I'm in the middle of many projects on the hard and one of them is to replace the coupler with a new Sigma Drive system, New dripless seal, New shaft, while i'm at it and why not the cutless. I got my cutlets out easily, though not as elegantly as you did. Soon I will be putting it all back together with confidence thanks to you! I owe you big time. Kirk, N4646 Juno
That was a great instructional video, plus you gave the timing of the procedure at the end which was really valuable! Great tip on the stuffing box tightening sequence.
I was thinking of buying a nordhavn 46 but worried it’s far too complicated to learn how to fix. I’d hate for something critical to go wrong while out at sea like air in fuel lines or gasket blown. I have an opportunity to buy one but the learning curve would be many many years I feel.
Thank you for your comment. I chose to have a conventional stuffing box because it will not fail catastrophically as a dripless seal can in certain circumstances.
I have to do mine this winter, it will be my fist! I have a Southern Cross 31 and have to crawl down in to a space i dont know if i can fit it. Lol. I hope a Ram can be used , it seems to make the job a whole lot easier. Great video. Very informative step by step. New subscriber . Best wishes
Thank you so much for this. I am about to remove the prop and had not measured the clearance between the rudder and shaft. Could have been a nasty surprise.
The boat came with "Spurs" line cutters. These are very close clearance, and marine growth always seemed to be an issue. They are very hard to clean. I have thought about putting a Shaft Shark cutter on. We are thinking about going to Newfoundland, and I definitely would put them on before heading that way.
Ours is on the hard now having the engine aligned, cutlass replaced. May also install a PSS, if we can achieve a better shaft alignment in the stern tube.
You know boss, if my prop looked like yours i would be loosing a knot just to corruption. I always sand, and polish my props, and never let them get like that. Funny you missed this.
Thank you for your comment. The video shows the moment after we were hauled. The prop had not been cleaned for a month. Before we launched, the prop was cleaned, sanded, and coated with zinc to help prevent fouling.
Very nicely done DIY, as are your others; I'm pretty sure my cutless will have to be done too. A bit off-subject, but do most boatyards allow DIY projects like this, and rent/loan out the necessary specialized large tools for prop/cutless, etc. pulling? Or is that a rarity?
Question, you mentioned using nylocks because the regular nut and a locking washer wouldn't fit on that side. Could you just put a locking washer on the other other side with the flat washer?
Thank you for your question. The locking washer needs to be next to the nut to prevent it from vibrating off of the threaded section of the bolt. There was not enough room between the coupler and the transmission case to allow the addition of a lock washer, so I used a nylock.
Развлечения
I probably would be thinking about selling my boat if it were not for your videos! I'm in the middle of many projects on the hard and one of them is to replace the coupler with a new Sigma Drive system, New dripless seal, New shaft, while i'm at it and why not the cutless. I got my cutlets out easily, though not as elegantly as you did. Soon I will be putting it all back together with confidence thanks to you! I owe you big time. Kirk, N4646 Juno
Thank you so much for your comments. They mean more to me than you can imagine. Good luck and please keep me updated on your progress.
That was a great instructional video, plus you gave the timing of the procedure at the end which was really valuable! Great tip on the stuffing box tightening sequence.
Thank you for your comment. I am glad you liked it.
Blowing the metal shavings into the cutlass bearings does harm the bearings? Man how did you learn all this stuff? Amazing knowledge
Thank you for your compliment. I have been working on all things mechanical for more than 40 years. I have picked up a couple of things along the way.
I was thinking of buying a nordhavn 46 but worried it’s far too complicated to learn how to fix. I’d hate for something critical to go wrong while out at sea like air in fuel lines or gasket blown. I have an opportunity to buy one but the learning curve would be many many years I feel.
Good job. Nice video. Glad to see you do it yourself, part of boat ownership. Yes money well saved.
Thank you for your kind words. I have found if you want it done correctly, you must do it yourself.
Once again cracking vid, thank you. Love watching your work.
Thank you for your continuing support!
very helpful and even more encouraging. Thank You!!
You are so welcome!
Very nice. Beautiful boat. I love this model.
Thank you for your kind words. I like it too. :)
Excellent video and you definitely know what your doing but you should have installed a dripless shaft seal , just my opinion
Thank you for your comment. I chose to have a conventional stuffing box because it will not fail catastrophically as a dripless seal can in certain circumstances.
I can't believe that prop jumped off like that without heat!
Thank you for your comment. I was very happy how the whole process went.
I have to do mine this winter, it will be my fist! I have a Southern Cross 31 and have to crawl down in to a space i dont know if i can fit it. Lol. I hope a Ram can be used , it seems to make the job a whole lot easier. Great video. Very informative step by step. New subscriber . Best wishes
Thank you for your comment and especially for subscribing. Thank you so much!
Have to do mine on a newly acquired Fisher 34. Even the thought causes my pain. I haven't a clue yet what my hardware setup is.
New subscriber, nice video thank you for the effort you put into your production.
Thank you for subscribing and for your kind words. It means a lot to me.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Excellent video!
Thank you for your comment!
Great job! Thank you.
Thank you. I enjoyed doing the project.
Impressive and Enjoyable. Subscribed !
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you so much for this. I am about to remove the prop and had not measured the clearance between the rudder and shaft. Could have been a nasty surprise.
I would suspect you will be fine. My issue was that the previous owner lengthened the shaft to add line cutters.
@@boatersdivingguide just curious why you didn't add a line cutter back in?
The boat came with "Spurs" line cutters. These are very close clearance, and marine growth always seemed to be an issue. They are very hard to clean. I have thought about putting a Shaft Shark cutter on. We are thinking about going to Newfoundland, and I definitely would put them on before heading that way.
I removed the set screws, then pulled the shaft. The bearing came out it’s it😁😎😂😁
Excellent - Thanks for keeping me updated!
Ours is on the hard now having the engine aligned, cutlass replaced. May also install a PSS, if we can achieve a better shaft alignment in the stern tube.
Thank you for your comments. Please tell me how everything worked out.
@@boatersdivingguide - stern tube sanded, cutlass waxed & set in epoxy using an aligned engine & shaft as the guide. Initial results are promising.
Please keep me updated! Good Luck.
Thanks for sharing this
My pleasure
You know boss, if my prop looked like yours i would be loosing a knot just to corruption. I always sand, and polish my props, and never let them get like that. Funny you missed this.
Thank you for your comment. The video shows the moment after we were hauled. The prop had not been cleaned for a month. Before we launched, the prop was cleaned, sanded, and coated with zinc to help prevent fouling.
New sub great job mate
Thank you so much for subscribing. That means a lot to me!
Very nicely done DIY, as are your others; I'm pretty sure my cutless will have to be done too. A bit off-subject, but do most boatyards allow DIY projects like this, and rent/loan out the necessary specialized large tools for prop/cutless, etc. pulling? Or is that a rarity?
There are few DIY yards, but if you call around you can find them. Renting tools is an uncommon practice at yards. Thanks for the kind words.
Question, you mentioned using nylocks because the regular nut and a locking washer wouldn't fit on that side. Could you just put a locking washer on the other other side with the flat washer?
Thank you for your question. The locking washer needs to be next to the nut to prevent it from vibrating off of the threaded section of the bolt. There was not enough room between the coupler and the transmission case to allow the addition of a lock washer, so I used a nylock.
How does the bearing seal on the boat?
Is it just pressed in?
Yes it is pressed in and then held in with a set screw.
How long does the bearing last?
We have replaced the last two after 840 and 960 hours, each period of about two years.
@@boatersdivingguide Love your videos and would love to own one of these someday.
Great video, love you clear and concise explanations. And a job well done. Thanks.