Wow! What an amazing job getting all that on camera. I know how hard it it's to film and instruct while just trying to get it done. Thank you so much for your content.
10 hours spent and I'm finally done! Here are some tips. If you can't reach the 21 mm nut holding the fork like I couldn't on either side you can put a flat wrench on the nut and remove the bolt from the other side with an impact gun. I know you run the risk of sheering the head off this way but it was the only way I could remove it since I didn't have enough access to get a socket on the nut. I did it with a 13/16" flat wrench since I didn't have 21mm and luckily it fit very snugly. I had to do this to both sides. Something else I learned is that the stud pattern to the top cap of the strut assembly is not equal distanced. Two studs are the same distance from each other and one is further away by a 1/4". There's only one way that it will go in, matching the holes on the car and the manufacturer had the rubber piece on in such a way that the bolt pattern didn't line up on the driver's side. I got lucky on the first side I did (pass) But on the driver's side I had to take it apart and redo it when I realized that it didn't fit. Also, I had a really hard time getting the upper control arms off on both sides but worse on the driver's side and I ended up using a stubby piece of brass and hitting it several hundred times with a hammer from the bottom. The bolt holding the upper control arm also was seized and I spun it while spraying penetrating lubricant and whacking the other end with a hammer using a piece of brass stock. The process of getting it back in afterwards took a lot of cussing and ratcheting hand clamps. I've ordered 2 tire install allignment tools from Amazon. I recommend getting some to avoid frustration. The brake wear and abs sensor clips are a pain in the butt to disconnect. I was only able to do the passenger side and it broke in the process the two on the other side I tried and tried and ended up just leaving them connected cuz I could not disconnect them for the life of me. The advanced Auto near me didn't have the right coil compressor I had to go to AutoZone and their unit was very badly worn. It did the job but it was kind of scary. Overall, it could be an "easy" job as the video title suggests but all the stubborn components and having to redo some stuff made it take way longer than this video let's on. But I know this has everything to do with my inabilities and not the amazing job of the video creator. I'm completely convinced that some BMW mechanic slept with an engineer's wife and the engineer is getting the last laugh. Hope this helps someone.
I'm sorry to hear about the nightmare you went through. Also great that you mentioned the strut mount top cap that it only goes in one way. I must have cut it out during editing or just forgot to mention it but that is an important part of the reinstallation of the strut assembly. Thank you for mentioning that. There is usually a paint mark on the cap and spring showing the side that is facing out. If you don't see that then use a sharpie and mark the spring and old cap so you can match the direction with the new one when replacing it.
@@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez Unless you're willing to by a genuine BMW part, in my opinion, you are better off keeping the original high quality components. Especially for me that was just trying to replace the rubber bushing and top caps. The car drives like new still.
Awesome video. Good job on holding the camera and doing the dismantling completely on focus. This is exactly what we have to fix on ours and looks doable thanks to you!!! We appreciate it.
Thanks for another great detailed video. Definitely makes a difference to diy guy like me to have this video handy since I never tackled a task this big. Keep it up
It's not necessary but I would recommend it that every you do any suspension work it's best to do an alignment since you are replacing wore out parts with new.
Depending on the condition and mileage of the old ones. I thought I would have to replace mine because the were close to 100k miles but they were actually still perfectly fine no leaks and ton of pressure in them so I put them back.
Mr. Fixit love your vides I have a questions I have a 2011 X5 35I and I hear like oversteering when i turn my wheel backing up or just turning very slow, what would you recommend, I have 111k miles on it and no other issues would you say that I am good for another 75 K cars aver very expensive and interest rates crazy so I would like to make it last. thanks for all you do
I would take it to an alignment shop to see what's going on. As far as the second part of your question, these are not super reliable vehicles to begin with and unfortunately the X5 35i is know for having engine problems.
I have a question....I just did mine and the spring orientation changed the blue stripe is now in the back...it would only fit back that way and I landed the springs correctly in the top bearing and at the base of the strut....will that matter? Thx tim
@@mr_fixit yes I lined them all up and test drove it...the bushings and foam had been worn out so long that after I got it back together everything felt tight...but ita actually back to where it used to be when we first bought it...thx for thr reassurance!!!!
Good video, but don't skip anything that you haven't already done on video. I would have liked to see you compress the spring and decompress it because honestly that's most dangerous part of the job. But other than that good video, keep it up!
Thank you for the feedback I did have footage but video was getting kind of long and I had to cut something. I'll know now to keep the footage and probably just speed it up a little 😄 Thank you again for watching.
Alignment is not necessary if your vehicle didn't have an alignment issue to begin with. I did an alignment on mine but I had an alignment issue in the rear, I did feel the vehicle pulling slightly to the right.
I would say it's recommended that you do but as long as your alignment was fine before the repair and car still doesn't pull to any sides after the repair you should be fine.
@@mr_fixit I’m having trouble putting the front passenger knuckle back into the upper control arm, does the stabilizer bar have to be removed when I do it? Is there a certain clamp used to press it back up in there? Thank you
@@rsolis1389 I just use the floor jack to lift the knuckle assembly up and then guide the ball joint into place. Put some grease on there and may need to tap it into place with a hammer.
It took me about 30min per side but it really depends on your skill level and the tools you'll be using. It definitely helps to use cordless impact tools. Thank you for watching my video
how many miles on your car when you did this? I have 96k miles same car diesel as well. Do you think if i do his job the car will feel much better? It doesnt drive that bad
@@mr_fixit got it and thank you for the video! I got mine with 30k miles about 9 years ago and i have 95k so im thinking to do it and refresh the bushings and control arms, we ll see. Thank you again
4.5 hours in on the first side. I'm stuck. I'm missing something..... Can't even get a socket to fit on the lower control arm fork nut so the assembly drops.
It seems like you have the sway bar link disconnected but you don't mention it at all in the video. Is that needed? I started loosening the nut on the link but it just spins now. I can't get it to tighten or loosen.
@@fern9234 Hey, sorry for the late reply. I did have the sway bar link out at the time because I was replacing them as well but they are not necessary to remove in order to get to all the other bolts and getting the strut out. If you decide to remove them you'll have a little more room to work. I have a video on replacing the sway bar links too. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@@mr_fixit I spent another hour or so racking my brain and then put it all back cause I never figured out how to remove that bolt without taking anything else off. I thought I could tackle this but I just can't seem to figure it out. My mechanic gets the win on this one. Thanks for replying.
@@mr_fixit Just saw your last message while i was reviewing your video again. Thanks man. The noise is now unbearable so I'm trying it again tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
Actually the plug I show in the video is the ABS sensor. The brake pad wear sensor is on the driver side so when doing the suspension on the driver side you need to disconnect both plugs. Hope this clears it up and thank you for watching.
Wow! What an amazing job getting all that on camera. I know how hard it it's to film and instruct while just trying to get it done. Thank you so much for your content.
Thank you watching, it means alot knowing my videos are being enjoyed and are helpful. Thank you
Just want to say thank you.
Your video helped me a lot.
I didn’t have the proper tools, but got it done.
Great to hear! Thank you for watching
10 hours spent and I'm finally done! Here are some tips. If you can't reach the 21 mm nut holding the fork like I couldn't on either side you can put a flat wrench on the nut and remove the bolt from the other side with an impact gun. I know you run the risk of sheering the head off this way but it was the only way I could remove it since I didn't have enough access to get a socket on the nut. I did it with a 13/16" flat wrench since I didn't have 21mm and luckily it fit very snugly. I had to do this to both sides. Something else I learned is that the stud pattern to the top cap of the strut assembly is not equal distanced. Two studs are the same distance from each other and one is further away by a 1/4". There's only one way that it will go in, matching the holes on the car and the manufacturer had the rubber piece on in such a way that the bolt pattern didn't line up on the driver's side. I got lucky on the first side I did (pass) But on the driver's side I had to take it apart and redo it when I realized that it didn't fit. Also, I had a really hard time getting the upper control arms off on both sides but worse on the driver's side and I ended up using a stubby piece of brass and hitting it several hundred times with a hammer from the bottom. The bolt holding the upper control arm also was seized and I spun it while spraying penetrating lubricant and whacking the other end with a hammer using a piece of brass stock. The process of getting it back in afterwards took a lot of cussing and ratcheting hand clamps. I've ordered 2 tire install allignment tools from Amazon. I recommend getting some to avoid frustration. The brake wear and abs sensor clips are a pain in the butt to disconnect. I was only able to do the passenger side and it broke in the process the two on the other side I tried and tried and ended up just leaving them connected cuz I could not disconnect them for the life of me. The advanced Auto near me didn't have the right coil compressor I had to go to AutoZone and their unit was very badly worn. It did the job but it was kind of scary. Overall, it could be an "easy" job as the video title suggests but all the stubborn components and having to redo some stuff made it take way longer than this video let's on. But I know this has everything to do with my inabilities and not the amazing job of the video creator. I'm completely convinced that some BMW mechanic slept with an engineer's wife and the engineer is getting the last laugh. Hope this helps someone.
I'm sorry to hear about the nightmare you went through. Also great that you mentioned the strut mount top cap that it only goes in one way. I must have cut it out during editing or just forgot to mention it but that is an important part of the reinstallation of the strut assembly. Thank you for mentioning that. There is usually a paint mark on the cap and spring showing the side that is facing out. If you don't see that then use a sharpie and mark the spring and old cap so you can match the direction with the new one when replacing it.
You should have just replaced the entire strut.
@@Poppinwheeeeellllllieeeeez Unless you're willing to by a genuine BMW part, in my opinion, you are better off keeping the original high quality components. Especially for me that was just trying to replace the rubber bushing and top caps. The car drives like new still.
Awesome video. Good job on holding the camera and doing the dismantling completely on focus. This is exactly what we have to fix on ours and looks doable thanks to you!!! We appreciate it.
Glad to hear my video is helpful and thank you for watching 🙂
Thanks. This was one of the best video i have seen. It is refreshing to see and hear a very detailed info. You got 5+ stars from us
Thank you very much it means alot to hear that my videos are being enjoyed or helpful.
Thanks for another great detailed video. Definitely makes a difference to diy guy like me to have this video handy since I never tackled a task this big.
Keep it up
Thank you so much 🙌
Thanks for the video, I'm attacking this tomorrow and this has been super helpful.
Glad to hear and good luck with the repair. Thanks again for watching.
How’d it go?
thank u .. the bushings on my E70 are gone... great video. have ordered the bushings from the dealer, they are not expensive 12 $ piece.
Glad I can help. Thanks for watching.
I liked the video, thank you for sharing your experience! It will be helpful as I'm getting ready to do the job myself on my 2012 BMW X5
No problem, thank you for the comment and thank you for watching.
Good job,I normally do not loosen the upper control arm,It’ll come out by just pushing the lower control arm down.
It was just easier for me and it gave me more room to work.
very informative video! do you need to perform wheel alignment if not disconnecting the folk from the lower control arm ?
It's not necessary but I would recommend it that every you do any suspension work it's best to do an alignment since you are replacing wore out parts with new.
Excellent video! Thank you for the knowledge.
Thank you for watching.
Keep up the good videos very detailed
Will do, thank you for watching.
Thanks. That was really helpful.
Thank you for watching .
Very good vodeo as always 👌
Thank you so much 🙌
If you tear it down that far anyway, would you suggest replacing the struts “while you are there”?
Depending on the condition and mileage of the old ones. I thought I would have to replace mine because the were close to 100k miles but they were actually still perfectly fine no leaks and ton of pressure in them so I put them back.
Great video!
Thanks, glad to hear
Mr. Fixit love your vides I have a questions I have a 2011 X5 35I and I hear like oversteering when i turn my wheel backing up or just turning very slow, what would you recommend, I have 111k miles on it and no other issues would you say that I am good for another 75 K cars aver very expensive and interest rates crazy so I would like to make it last. thanks for all you do
I would take it to an alignment shop to see what's going on. As far as the second part of your question, these are not super reliable vehicles to begin with and unfortunately the X5 35i is know for having engine problems.
@@mr_fixit Thank you
Good job done 👍
Thank you 😀
I have a question....I just did mine and the spring orientation changed the blue stripe is now in the back...it would only fit back that way and I landed the springs correctly in the top bearing and at the base of the strut....will that matter? Thx tim
No, as long as you lined up the strut mount and lower suspension to go back in correctly you should be fine.
@@mr_fixit yes I lined them all up and test drove it...the bushings and foam had been worn out so long that after I got it back together everything felt tight...but ita actually back to where it used to be when we first bought it...thx for thr reassurance!!!!
Good video, but don't skip anything that you haven't already done on video. I would have liked to see you compress the spring and decompress it because honestly that's most dangerous part of the job. But other than that good video, keep it up!
Thank you for the feedback I did have footage but video was getting kind of long and I had to cut something. I'll know now to keep the footage and probably just speed it up a little 😄 Thank you again for watching.
Alignment afterwards?
Alignment is not necessary if your vehicle didn't have an alignment issue to begin with. I did an alignment on mine but I had an alignment issue in the rear, I did feel the vehicle pulling slightly to the right.
Will you need to have an alignment done after this job is complete? I’m only doing the one side
I would say it's recommended that you do but as long as your alignment was fine before the repair and car still doesn't pull to any sides after the repair you should be fine.
@@mr_fixit I’m having trouble putting the front passenger knuckle back into the upper control arm, does the stabilizer bar have to be removed when I do it? Is there a certain clamp used to press it back up in there? Thank you
@@rsolis1389 I just use the floor jack to lift the knuckle assembly up and then guide the ball joint into place. Put some grease on there and may need to tap it into place with a hammer.
Is a new strut mount always needed?
No, if they are not torn but if you are doing all the work you may as well change them at the same time.
Is it the same procedure with a 2004 model.. the body is slightly different
I haven't worked on the older version so I can't confirm 100% but I assume it has to be similar procedure.
How long was the job? Thanks
It took me about 30min per side but it really depends on your skill level and the tools you'll be using. It definitely helps to use cordless impact tools.
Thank you for watching my video
how many miles on your car when you did this? I have 96k miles same car diesel as well. Do you think if i do his job the car will feel much better? It doesnt drive that bad
I bought mine with 97k miles and it was already making noise I changed everything right around 100k cause it got worse pretty quick.
@@mr_fixit got it and thank you for the video! I got mine with 30k miles about 9 years ago and i have 95k so im thinking to do it and refresh the bushings and control arms, we ll see. Thank you again
@@AM4project No problem, thank you for watching and supporting my channel.
Curious what year was the X5 and miles on the vehicle?
It's was 2009 and I believe 98k miles at the time of the video.
Mine is a 2011 and started clunking slightly around 90k maybe before that
Great stuff
Thanks
You just made it look so simple😅
I do my best 😅😆 thank you for watching.
Thanks this video
Thanks for watching
How much for these parts ?
The small foam bushings where around $20 for all 4 and the top strut mounts where about $55 each. I got all parts from Fcpeuro.com
4.5 hours in on the first side. I'm stuck. I'm missing something..... Can't even get a socket to fit on the lower control arm fork nut so the assembly drops.
It seems like you have the sway bar link disconnected but you don't mention it at all in the video. Is that needed? I started loosening the nut on the link but it just spins now. I can't get it to tighten or loosen.
@@fern9234 Hey, sorry for the late reply. I did have the sway bar link out at the time because I was replacing them as well but they are not necessary to remove in order to get to all the other bolts and getting the strut out. If you decide to remove them you'll have a little more room to work. I have a video on replacing the sway bar links too. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@@mr_fixit I spent another hour or so racking my brain and then put it all back cause I never figured out how to remove that bolt without taking anything else off. I thought I could tackle this but I just can't seem to figure it out. My mechanic gets the win on this one. Thanks for replying.
@@fern9234 I'm sorry to hear that. If you have any other questions you can dm me on IG @ mr_fixitt I can respond quicker.
@@mr_fixit Just saw your last message while i was reviewing your video again. Thanks man. The noise is now unbearable so I'm trying it again tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
You rule. Txs
Thank you 🙌
ty same car !!
Thank you for watching
Can you just come fix mine and I pay you 🤷🏽♀️🤷🏽♀️🤦🏽♀️🤦🏽♀️🙏🏽🙏🏽
That’s not a ABS SENSOR, it’s a sensor for brake pat wear
Actually the plug I show in the video is the ABS sensor. The brake pad wear sensor is on the driver side so when doing the suspension on the driver side you need to disconnect both plugs. Hope this clears it up and thank you for watching.
Very helpful :) thank you
Thank you