Love your channel bro👌🏼You make the most simple, clear cut instructional guides, and you don’t drag the show on like some guys. Its a great resource no matter how inexperienced or seasoned you may be. This video helped me build my first curbless shower flawlessly and easily.
Great Advice :) Love the self leveling cement products pour it out give it s rough push around and tomorrow when set have a level base to starting laying tiles :) Thanks for the support mate :)
Dude , I've been doing tile for 30 years for myself total about 40. People just don't realize how much work it takes to end up with a top-notch job. Keep up the good work Buddy.
@@TileCoach , I've been doing tile for almost 40 years, been doing it for myself for 30. I enjoy the final outcome. I saw one of your videos where you had that bisque tile failure what was the problem on that was there not enough studs in the wall. That just surprised me. Must have been a very soft tile. Do you use lath? And the floor failing at the mall over gypsum, that had to make you sick.
I did the curbless shower for my daughters bathroom and boy do I regret it . Beside of looking beautiful it floods the bathroom because the center drain pan it doesn't really have enough slope in my opinion and we even replaced the drain pipe to a 2" one instead of the one that the house was built with. I had to install a one inch tall marble piece to stop the water from flooding half my bath, so no more curbless shower for my master bath.
This video is perfect and pt 2. This is exactly what I will be doing. I have already demo'd my bathroom. There are so many options, idea's and opinions online. But this is the system that fits my bathroom perfectly. Thank you so much
Never seen someone use a straightedge like that before rodding off mud... I'm not hating just observing. Not sure if you use wood for pulling mud but the 1x4 redwood are great. You can cut to size, keeps a good edge, doesn't swell, makes nice ledge board and light. I do like my aluminum edges but my red edegs are my go-to for pans. I enjoy watching your channel, keep banging out them videos.
You sure do make it look easy... Excited to seewhat you have come up with to layer your Kerdi together with. I've been contemplating on using something else since your video depicting the failure in the thinset, not the Kerdi. Has Schluter reached out to you to comment?
I would like to see you do a demonstration with Ardex A38 floating mud ,and the AM100, thats what we use to put it to the test ,Big Fan of you ,God Bless you
Why not put thin set and lightly place a thin amount of dry pack down prior to installing the linear drain? Seems like it would get better coverage underneath and not potentially have pockets of no material. Thanks in advance and thanks for all the excellent content !
Cool video. I would suggest putting foam around the no-hub and pipe, or dirt since plumbing code dictates no direct embedding of pipe in or through cement.
Great video. I am in the planning phase of a new slab addition with a 36” x 72” curbless walk-in shower with a linear drain along the long side. I was planning to form a 2” deep x 36” x 72” recess during the pour. I will also increase the depth below this area so the slab is still 4” thick. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations? Would you recommend this recess be done as a mono-pour or in 2 separate pours? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
This is really great info! I'm in the process of doing a very similar project. When I cut out my slab, I was only able to get to within about an inch of my studs. That leaves a lip of concrete along the sides and back perimeter. I'm not sure I can get it to be flush. How do you solve that problem?
Not saying you did anything wrong but we always do the preslope with recessed pan, then the pan liner on top of weep hole style drain, cut out for drain then do a slope which is usually pretty thin cause it's a recessed pan. So part your missing is hardibacker is already on with no liner? What am I missing with how you did it?
I desperately need to know how deep you had to demo the concrete around your drain pipe. Like what's the distance between the top of the drain body and the bottom of the rubber coupling?
Crazy, that deck mud is basically what I used on my off grid earth bag and tire wall coating... mine was massive scale tho... new Mexico clay sand from my property sifted of sticks and rocks, in a wheel barrel I'd mix 2 shovels of Portland to sand clay... finish surface primed killz black label and a simple exterior latex for waterproofing... I laugh at common building techniques now after building a off grid home of tires and bags, the durability is not even close at all, my walls were metric tons per foot, bulletproof, fire proof, earthquake proof, bug proof, year round 70 degrees inside no matter temp outside, and 100% custom designed, not to mention recycling tires in a responsible manner helping the environment... I'm in construction and do remodels, and hate it, I plan on getting back to tilling the earth building something permanent, and good in every way.
@@TileCoach I'm in south Carolina, I totally would want to put the simple knowledge out there, I had ideas of getting a sponsor like Ford to donate vehicles to test the different building techniques against cars impact, the reason is because a tire can take 3 wheel barrels of dirt after ramming it with sledgehammer... that times 10 courses of tires is megalithic... a car has no match... neither do stick builds... Mixing common building techniques with earth building is a very very promising idea for those interested, I spent 5 grand including my acre of land on materials that keep me my wife and special needs daughter cozy for 2 years, before my youngest came along and changed our plans... I can answer any questions anyone may have tho.... a great documentary called garbage warrior is a must if you want a good feeling in this concept... Just think investing 50 grand into a earth build would produce the sq ft space as a Californian ticky track, but will last for hundreds of years, cost almost nothing in comparison, the only problem is elbow grease. .. you got to build it, take a yr to build, or pay 30 yr mortgage for something you don't own, and could burn down... umm I'll build mines all day everyday, as I have plans for it I pray soon.
Hey Isaac, Im the beginning of the video you mentioned you got the drain 2” deep but later only need 3/4” total slope from the end. Is there a reason it needed to be 2” deep? Is it code? Thanks!!
So I take it you don't need a preslope under your tiling surface, as long as you're not using that 40 ml plastic? If I were to red guard the deck mud instead of using kirdi, I can also forgo the preslope?
hi Issac, here in this step you don't take out the hole slab because you just need to level enough to get a pitch towards the drain ? Thank in advance.
Question. What is the best way of getting the slab flush with the stud wall as you break it out. We used a wet saw, but we can't get closer than 1 1/2" to the studs. We need the cut slab to be flush with the studs. Any help would be appreciated. Will try to send a pic.
Nice work. I was thinking of using the schluter pan for one of these drains. Can you confirm the drain is to be 2.5 inches from the wall for install? Wasn't really sure if there was a tile to be installed behind the drain or just wall edge down to drain? Enjoying the vids
@tilecoach, is there no real need to use a standard drain base with weep holes with the linear drain? Is that why you can use a rubber coupler like that? Or is it better/easier to use a rubber coupler with a linear drain?
What do you prefer, A mud bed or kurdi foam bed? I'm redoing my shower and the linear drain pan is almost $300. I can use a mud bed and put that money into a bench and nitch. But if the foam is much easier to use then I'll just go with that. Also is it because you're using kerdi membrane that it's OK for the mud bed to be touching the cement board?
You should learn how to do a mud bed. Pretty easy, and there's time to get it right. No hurry. I'll let Isaac chime in, but I'm pretty sure its "yes" to your question. The kerdi prevents water/moisture from ever reaching the bed and cement board.
So interested to see your new waterproofing method after the kerdi thinset leak deal! Where can you get this “deck mud”? Is it real different from a bedding/topping mix?
Yeah to me, using I modified thinset didn’t seem to make sense as a “glue” for the Schluter products, but if they think it’s good enough to use and can put their warranty behind a lot of people seem to go with it.
Assuming the slab was already sloped towards the drain, I take it there’s no use for a liner? Also curious about waterproofing the bottom of the sheet rock and kerdi bench that your deck mud covers. Thanks ! The effort you put into these videos is always appreciated 👍🏼
Isaac Ostrom Got it! I referred back to a few of your videos to try and answer my own question before I asked. The “Proof Pre Slope Works” video is what initially made me question but I just misunderstood. Got it now ! Thanks 👍🏼
but what is the white thing u put on first...how to do the drain connection for the curbless...how to install actually to the drain pipe...please show us how is done thanks
This is the drain base / flange. When you tile the slope, the tile will sit above the drain flange by the thickness of the tile. Then, you place a grate in the drain base that also receives a slice of tile to match the height of the rest of the shower floor. It's not like a point drain, which is usually expected to be the final height of the finished floor.
How I can do a linear drain on the faucet side? It is impossible getting slope,please help Entry spot is easy because making it even height with outside shower but side way is difficult
Newbie here, I'm handy when it comes to projects, remodeled bathrooms before but never installed a linear drain. When doing your final dry pack, how much if any room do you leave from the top of the linear drain frame, to the dry pack foundation? I would think about 3/8th of an inch or so to account for the thickness of thin set and tile thickness? I have a SaniteModar Linear drain I bought through amazon. Any help from anyone would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
How thick was that mud bed at its thinnest point? I'm asking because I'm going to need to do a similar shower on slab. What's the thinnest you'd be comfortable making a mud bed?
Hey Isaac. Do you recommend people use the slurry on top of plywood? I have a 1.5 inch thick Radiant heat concrete slab. So I have some plywood around the drain area. I see some people use felt paper instead... . Also, is your slurry made out of modified thinset? Can I use non modified thinset instead? Thanks
Curious, how long did it take you to jack hammer that couple inches of concrete? Going to be doing this on my bathroom remodel, not looking forward to it.
@@krehbein and that dust is going everywhere... put a little water on that concrete in advance and it makes mud instead of dust. Never captures 100% of the dust but makes a huge difference. I personally use one of those angle grinders with a dust shoe around the head. A good shop vacuum connected to it does the rest.
@@TileCoach I see, I have never made the jump to kerdi PVC pan liner has always been my go to. I just dont have the confidence in the project yet.. I'm waiting to see the test of time. I like your work ethics tho, you always seem to do really nice work!
The wall panels should be installed after the shower pan is packed and set, so that water does not penetrate between the two on the vertical. That shower is guaranteed to fail.
typically how much do you need to go down on the slab? Im doing the same job and i basically cut around the slab with a 4.5 inch cutter so i probably went about 2 inches all the way around. would that be enough to pitch from there or i need more ?
Excellent work! We do this a lot. I get so many jobs from clients who tell me "The last contractor said it wasn't possible"
Love your channel bro👌🏼You make the most simple, clear cut instructional guides, and you don’t drag the show on like some guys. Its a great resource no matter how inexperienced or seasoned you may be. This video helped me build my first curbless shower flawlessly and easily.
Great Advice :)
Love the self leveling cement products pour it out give it s rough push around and tomorrow when set have a level base to starting laying tiles :)
Thanks for the support mate :)
Yes if there's drain work we would use this stuff;) 3%
Stop making such good videos man. I can never get to sleep at night through watching them and have floor to tile in the morning. 😂
😆🤣🤦🙄 I have pans to set tommorow 🤦
Dude , I've been doing tile for 30 years for myself total about 40. People just don't realize how much work it takes to end up with a top-notch job. Keep up the good work Buddy.
@@TileCoach , I've been doing tile for almost 40 years, been doing it for myself for 30. I enjoy the final outcome. I saw one of your videos where you had that bisque tile failure what was the problem on that was there not enough studs in the wall. That just surprised me. Must have been a very soft tile. Do you use lath? And the floor failing at the mall over gypsum, that had to make you sick.
Dry pack is the most difficult part of the job
Enjoy watching all your videos Mr.O one of the best mud pan guys on RUclips. Aloha🤙🏽
I did the curbless shower for my daughters bathroom and boy do I regret it . Beside of looking beautiful it floods the bathroom because the center drain pan it doesn't really have enough slope in my opinion and we even replaced the drain pipe to a 2" one instead of the one that the house was built with. I had to install a one inch tall marble piece to stop the water from flooding half my bath, so no more curbless shower for my master bath.
This video is perfect and pt 2. This is exactly what I will be doing. I have already demo'd my bathroom. There are so many options, idea's and opinions online. But this is the system that fits my bathroom perfectly. Thank you so much
That brush method is really badass !!!! Your videos kick ass . Our friend Diblasi would be proud !! See you on Facebook !
Never seen someone use a straightedge like that before rodding off mud... I'm not hating just observing. Not sure if you use wood for pulling mud but the 1x4 redwood are great. You can cut to size, keeps a good edge, doesn't swell, makes nice ledge board and light. I do like my aluminum edges but my red edegs are my go-to for pans. I enjoy watching your channel, keep banging out them videos.
Rod or rodding must be a Cali term? Never heard it in Florida.
Good tip using redwood. I've used the primed pine boards home depot sells. Also can be cut, and are usually very straight.
Amos R it is...Cali guys like rodding off
that's nice...mines just like it 4x9,this video was very helpful,w drain inplace,thank you isaac
You sure do make it look easy... Excited to seewhat you have come up with to layer your Kerdi together with. I've been contemplating on using something else since your video depicting the failure in the thinset, not the Kerdi. Has Schluter reached out to you to comment?
Nice job there mate, enjoying the videos cheers
Nice job Isaac.
I would like to see you do a demonstration with Ardex A38 floating mud ,and the AM100, thats what we use to put it to the test ,Big Fan of you ,God Bless you
Why not put thin set and lightly place a thin amount of dry pack down prior to installing the linear drain? Seems like it would get better coverage underneath and not potentially have pockets of no material. Thanks in advance and thanks for all the excellent content !
Cool video. I would suggest putting foam around the no-hub and pipe, or dirt since plumbing code dictates no direct embedding of pipe in or through cement.
Great video. I am in the planning phase of a new slab addition with a 36” x 72” curbless walk-in shower with a linear drain along the long side. I was planning to form a 2” deep x 36” x 72” recess during the pour. I will also increase the depth below this area so the slab is still 4” thick. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations? Would you recommend this recess be done as a mono-pour or in 2 separate pours? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Love it🎉
Great job as always,🛀🏻
Thanks for the help!!
KickAss man
good work.. nice job!!
This is really great info! I'm in the process of doing a very similar project. When I cut out my slab, I was only able to get to within about an inch of my studs. That leaves a lip of concrete along the sides and back perimeter. I'm not sure I can get it to be flush. How do you solve that problem?
@@TileCoach I think I can make that happen. Great to hear. Thank you so much and keep up the good work!
Not saying you did anything wrong but we always do the preslope with recessed pan, then the pan liner on top of weep hole style drain, cut out for drain then do a slope which is usually pretty thin cause it's a recessed pan. So part your missing is hardibacker is already on with no liner? What am I missing with how you did it?
I desperately need to know how deep you had to demo the concrete around your drain pipe. Like what's the distance between the top of the drain body and the bottom of the rubber coupling?
Crazy, that deck mud is basically what I used on my off grid earth bag and tire wall coating... mine was massive scale tho... new Mexico clay sand from my property sifted of sticks and rocks, in a wheel barrel I'd mix 2 shovels of Portland to sand clay... finish surface primed killz black label and a simple exterior latex for waterproofing...
I laugh at common building techniques now after building a off grid home of tires and bags, the durability is not even close at all, my walls were metric tons per foot, bulletproof, fire proof, earthquake proof, bug proof, year round 70 degrees inside no matter temp outside, and 100% custom designed, not to mention recycling tires in a responsible manner helping the environment...
I'm in construction and do remodels, and hate it, I plan on getting back to tilling the earth building something permanent, and good in every way.
@@TileCoach I'm in south Carolina, I totally would want to put the simple knowledge out there, I had ideas of getting a sponsor like Ford to donate vehicles to test the different building techniques against cars impact, the reason is because a tire can take 3 wheel barrels of dirt after ramming it with sledgehammer... that times 10 courses of tires is megalithic... a car has no match... neither do stick builds...
Mixing common building techniques with earth building is a very very promising idea for those interested, I spent 5 grand including my acre of land on materials that keep me my wife and special needs daughter cozy for 2 years, before my youngest came along and changed our plans...
I can answer any questions anyone may have tho.... a great documentary called garbage warrior is a must if you want a good feeling in this concept...
Just think investing 50 grand into a earth build would produce the sq ft space as a Californian ticky track, but will last for hundreds of years, cost almost nothing in comparison, the only problem is elbow grease. .. you got to build it, take a yr to build, or pay 30 yr mortgage for something you don't own, and could burn down... umm I'll build mines all day everyday, as I have plans for it I pray soon.
OMG Isaac what new product are you using to make the Kerdi seam waterproof? Gonna install mine soon 😂
How do you do the same on raised foundation? Do you have a video for this? Thank you I am learning a lot.
What mix did you use?? Looks good
Hey Isaac,
Im the beginning of the video you mentioned you got the drain 2” deep but later only need 3/4” total slope from the end. Is there a reason it needed to be 2” deep? Is it code? Thanks!!
So I take it you don't need a preslope under your tiling surface, as long as you're not using that 40 ml plastic? If I were to red guard the deck mud instead of using kirdi, I can also forgo the preslope?
If the deck mud is part cement how hard will it get if left to sit for a while? Would you be able to walk on it without leaving footprints?
hi Issac, here in this step you don't take out the hole slab because you just need to level enough to get a pitch towards the drain ? Thank in advance.
Question. What is the best way of getting the slab flush with the stud wall as you break it out. We used a wet saw, but we can't get closer than 1 1/2" to the studs. We need the cut slab to be flush with the studs. Any help would be appreciated. Will try to send a pic.
Nice work. I was thinking of using the schluter pan for one of these drains. Can you confirm the drain is to be 2.5 inches from the wall for install? Wasn't really sure if there was a tile to be installed behind the drain or just wall edge down to drain? Enjoying the vids
@@TileCoach be m to
@tilecoach, is there no real need to use a standard drain base with weep holes with the linear drain? Is that why you can use a rubber coupler like that? Or is it better/easier to use a rubber coupler with a linear drain?
What do you prefer, A mud bed or kurdi foam bed? I'm redoing my shower and the linear drain pan is almost $300. I can use a mud bed and put that money into a bench and nitch. But if the foam is much easier to use then I'll just go with that.
Also is it because you're using kerdi membrane that it's OK for the mud bed to be touching the cement board?
You should learn how to do a mud bed. Pretty easy, and there's time to get it right. No hurry. I'll let Isaac chime in, but I'm pretty sure its "yes" to your question. The kerdi prevents water/moisture from ever reaching the bed and cement board.
@@krehbein Thanks, I'll give it a shot. For the $300 bucks or so I can also probably redo the mud bed many times, lol.
@@TileCoach Thanks man. Do you tile the walls, curb and floor over the drain flange right up to the very opening or only right up to the metal flange?
@@TileCoach awesome, good looking out.
Would the dry pack not adhere to the concrete with out the thin set?
So interested to see your new waterproofing method after the kerdi thinset leak deal! Where can you get this “deck mud”? Is it real different from a bedding/topping mix?
I think sakrete makes the bedding/topping. But I’m in Pittsburgh,Pa
Okay yea I thought I saw mapei had a mud mix but wasn’t sure if that was the same thing. Thanks for the info!
Yeah to me, using I modified thinset didn’t seem to make sense as a “glue” for the Schluter products, but if they think it’s good enough to use and can put their warranty behind a lot of people seem to go with it.
Assuming the slab was already sloped towards the drain, I take it there’s no use for a liner? Also curious about waterproofing the bottom of the sheet rock and kerdi bench that your deck mud covers. Thanks ! The effort you put into these videos is always appreciated 👍🏼
Isaac Ostrom Got it! I referred back to a few of your videos to try and answer my own question before I asked. The “Proof Pre Slope Works” video is what initially made me question but I just misunderstood. Got it now ! Thanks 👍🏼
Have you ever worked with an Infinity drain on slab?
but what is the white thing u put on first...how to do the drain connection for the curbless...how to install actually to the drain pipe...please show us how is done thanks
Don’t you have to set the mortar bed low of the drain so tile flushes up to it ?
This is the drain base / flange. When you tile the slope, the tile will sit above the drain flange by the thickness of the tile. Then, you place a grate in the drain base that also receives a slice of tile to match the height of the rest of the shower floor. It's not like a point drain, which is usually expected to be the final height of the finished floor.
How I can do a linear drain on the faucet side?
It is impossible getting slope,please help
Entry spot is easy because making it even height with outside shower but side way is difficult
Newbie here, I'm handy when it comes to projects, remodeled bathrooms before but never installed a linear drain. When doing your final dry pack, how much if any room do you leave from the top of the linear drain frame, to the dry pack foundation? I would think about 3/8th of an inch or so to account for the thickness of thin set and tile thickness? I have a SaniteModar Linear drain I bought through amazon. Any help from anyone would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
You forgot to explain how you did the measurements for your slope or what method did you use to come up for the slope.
what is working time for this mud?
why do you put thin set down before the cement?
Which product are you using over the kerdi? I’ve thought of doing the same thing. I can’t recognize that color?
thanks
Hi i'm in Canada. Do you know what kind of cement instead dry pack ? Because in Canada , they don't sell dry pack
Yes they do same product as usa
What boards were used on the bathroom shower walls ?
so if no slurry is used the mud wont adhere?
So do you got mop the whole floor?
👍👍
👍
What do you like about line drains?
How thick was that mud bed at its thinnest point? I'm asking because I'm going to need to do a similar shower on slab. What's the thinnest you'd be comfortable making a mud bed?
Hey Isaac. Do you recommend people use the slurry on top of plywood? I have a 1.5 inch thick Radiant heat concrete slab. So I have some plywood around the drain area. I see some people use felt paper instead... . Also, is your slurry made out of modified thinset? Can I use non modified thinset instead? Thanks
@@TileCoach Awesome - thanks Isaac. Love your vids - invaluable to a novice like me trying to figure things out!
So these linear drains dont have a weep system built into them like a traditional drain?
@@TileCoach thanks again isaac. So i dont see a way of hot mopping with a linear drain system. Or is there?
If it's a sealed system why not just use quickrete cement bags?
why was there no need for a bladder?
Curious, how long did it take you to jack hammer that couple inches of concrete? Going to be doing this on my bathroom remodel, not looking forward to it.
Use an angle grinder with a cheap diamond disk to cut lines in the slab, makes it much easier for the hammer after that.
Swake 001 That’s a good idea, as long as you keep the dust under control.
@@krehbein and that dust is going everywhere... put a little water on that concrete in advance and it makes mud instead of dust. Never captures 100% of the dust but makes a huge difference. I personally use one of those angle grinders with a dust shoe around the head. A good shop vacuum connected to it does the rest.
👍🏽
So no pre slope liner?
@@TileCoach I see, I have never made the jump to kerdi PVC pan liner has always been my go to. I just dont have the confidence in the project yet.. I'm waiting to see the test of time. I like your work ethics tho, you always seem to do really nice work!
Try setting a few old tiles at your screed heights in the corners. You will thank me later
I don’t know why I’m so afraid of mud maybe I’m just afraid of bidding low
The wall panels should be installed after the shower pan is packed and set, so that water does not penetrate between the two on the vertical. That shower is guaranteed to fail.
You're funny, those panels have a gap just like you between the ears.
No fail redgard the whole thing
Are U a licenced plumber
I cringed at the moment he used that brand new stabila to screed on the old concrete!!!
how do you know where the level pitch should be ?
typically how much do you need to go down on the slab? Im doing the same job and i basically cut around the slab with a 4.5 inch cutter so i probably went about 2 inches all the way around. would that be enough to pitch from there or i need more ?
Looks like 8+9
WTF
Took to long on that small shower floor.
What about the height of the tile as it relates to the drain...Won't the drain be too low if you screed off the top of the drain and concrete?