Hi Deckerd, I have this amp powering 2 pioneer Champion Pro Series 12s wired down to 1ohm at 1200RMs with the GM-D 8704 running my mids & highs. My question is I keep noticing everyone is calling the control a Bass Boost Knob rather then Bass Control. Is it actually a bass boost knob instead of having a bass boost control on the amp or is it a genuine bass control level as In if I set my gains with a DD+1 with the bass knob in turned up full volume and decide to turn the knob down it will turn the power of the whole amp down (gains down) like every other amp? Many thanks.
When using a subwoofer amplifier with an LPF crossover, a bass boost and an amplifier level control may appear to be very similar in operation. The Pioneer GM-D9701 has a Bass Boost remote control knob. The frequency response of the GM-D9701 is from 10Hz to 240Hz. And the amp's Bass Boost if centered at 50Hz. The bass boost if from 0dB to +18dB. When the Bass Boost remote control is set to min, you are adding 0 additional boost at 50Hz. When the Bass Boost remote control is set to max you are adding up to +18dB at 50 Hz. The bass boost is centered at 50 Hz. However please note and, this is the part that gets overlooked by uneducated users that commonly write in forums and other internet groups: Even though the bass boost center is 50 Hz, other frequencies are also effected at a rate of approximately 12dB per octave. This means, when you add in a boost at 50 Hz, you are also effecting all of the frequencies from 25Hz, to 100Hz. Just to be clear, one octave below 50Hz is 25 Hz. And one octave above 50Hz is 100Hz. So all of the frequencies from 25 to 100 are boosted with the peak in the middle at 50 Hz. You did not mention what crossover frequency you have chosen, or the slope of the crossover. Here is a hypothetical example: This is just an example, it's not necessarily the perfect answer for every system. If I'm using an LPF crossover on the subwoofer amplifier and the crossover is set to 80Hz at a slope of 24dB per octave, that means only the low frequencies from 80Hz and lower are coming to the amp and being played by the subwoofers. So now , the effective frequency response of the amplifier is 25Hz to 80Hz. When I adjust the 50Hz Bass Boost, I'm really adjusting from 25Hz to 100Hz and I'm really adjusting all of the frequencies that the amp is playing. Again that's based on a crossover set to 80Hz. So you see, when using a bass boost in a narrow band frequency response the bass boost it effecting all of the output. That's why the bass boost may seem like a amp level control. You can learn more about crossovers on Pioneer receivers in this How To video from Pioneer: ruclips.net/video/WvJXYh6vk_0/видео.html You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Is the included knob a bass knob or a bass boost knob? I see that the amp itself doesn’t have a bass boost dial like most other amplifiers, so is this knob meant to keep at 100% and turn down if needed or is meant to be kept at 0% and only turned up if u need more bass?
The Pioneer GM-D9701 includes a Bass Boost Remote control. When the bass boost remote control is set to "min" or turned counter clockwise to it's limit, there is no additional bass boost added to the signal. When the bass boost remote control is turned to "max", or clockwise to it's limit, the bass boost above the normal signal is up to 18dB. I recommend to start with the bass boos remote control at min, and add in more bass as you like it. Take your time. You can always make more adjustments. There is more to this answer. Please keep reading. The amplifiers Bass Boost is centered at 50Hz. This means when you turn up the bass boost you are turning up the volume with a peak at 50Hz. The peak at 50Hz rolls off higher at ~12dB per octave, and lower at ~12dB per octave. One octave higher or at 100Hz, there is little or no additional boost. One octave lower or at 25Hz there is little or no additional boost. Additionally, please keep in mind the crossover, or LPF setting you are using on the amplifier is also effecting the output of the bass boost setting. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to playback frequencies from 10Hz to 240Hz. The crossover or LPF setting you choose, for example ~80Hz means frequencies above 80Hz are not played back by the amplifier. If the bass boost is centered at 50Hz, and you have the LPF crossover set to 80Hz, you're only boosting up to about 80Hz before the crossover over is filtering out all of the signal. From 50Hz and lower will be boosted one octave lower down to about 25Hz. In order for you to hear a difference in the bass boost remote control settings, please be sure you are listening to music that has information below 80Hz and in particular 50Hz and lower. You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
hey. i had pioneers 306c dvc and 308d4, what type of enclosure is the best way to play both of them together? (2 woofers playing on 8601, 400rms each running on 2ohms) Single big enclosure with single port? single enclosure with a separation (chamber) and 2 ports? keeping in mind i have a trunk and would like to go 30-45hz. i listen to hip hop and please help me out with the dimensions as well :)
I had this amp connected with 2 12in kicker comp r with impedence switch set at 1 ohm the subs blew and im looking for info for a good matching pair of subs for the gm-d9701
The Pioneer GM-D9701 will put out 500 watts x 1 at 4 ohms. The Pioneer TS-D12D4 is a good option. You can see it here: ruclips.net/video/ZLRZ0A6ZJIo/видео.html I recommend to run a pair of Pioneer TS-D12D4 subs each at 4 ohms. This will give you room to adjust the subwoofer output of your system and still deliver great reliability. The recommended sealed enclosure size for the Pioneer TS-D12D4 is 28.3 L or 1 cubic foot internal volume. When using the Pioneer TS-D12D4 in a vented enclosure I recommend an internal volume of 28.3 L or 1 Cubic foot with a port inside diameter of 76mm or 3 inches and port length of 152 mm or 6 inches. You can find more videos about Pioneer woofers here: ruclips.net/video/QgG1mu2u3XI/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Recently buy this D9701 2400w but when always I turn up the volume it goes into protection mode.Already check alternator,battery,Ground,wiring,Gain is about 5v but still same issue.On other side if volume is normal (half volume) so its working properly.I have android screen
You did not mention anything about the speakers connected to the amplifier. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to operate reliably at 8, 4, 2, and 1 ohm impedance. If you push the amplifier lower than 1 ohm impedance, it will protect itself. What speakers are connected to the amplifier? What is the impedance of the speakers? Are the speakers single voice coil, or dual voice coil? Are the speakers wired in parallel? Or in a series? Or a combination? What is the overall impedance of the speaker circuit shown to the amplifier? What is the voltage measured at the amplifiers power connection while the amp is playing? The lower the voltage at the amp power connection the closer it is to shut down. Allowable voltage is 10.8 to 15.1 volts. The higher side is better. For example 12, or 14 volts at the amplifier power connection while the amp is playing is what you should expect to see. At high volume and playing heavy bass notes, the voltage must not drop below 10.8 volts or the system will shut down.
The gain control is not a volume control. The gain control on an amplifier is used to balance the Output from the in-dash receiver with the Input on the amplifier. Here is the short answer: What in-dash receiver are you using? If you are using a Pioneer receiver with 2 volt RCA outputs, I recommend setting the amplifier's gain control to the "Normal" position. If you are using a Pioneer receiver with 4 volt outputs, I recommend setting the amplifier's gain control to the "H" position. This is a good place to start. Small adjustments from there is the best path. If you want a more detailed explanation, please keep reading: This is a long answer. Please take a few minutes to read the entire answer. Setting the gain control is easy. Don't be afraid of it. There is no one perfect amplifier gain setting. If there was, the amplifiers would be set that way at the factory. All audio systems are different and you need to adjust the gain control for good performance with your particular system. The amplifier's gain control is used to balance the output signal from the in-dash receiver with the input on the subwoofer amplifier. Too much gain will cause distortion, or noise in the subwoofer's output. This can damage or destroy the subwoofer. Not enough gain, and the subwoofer output will be too low and not deliver the performance you want. You use the gain control to find the balance. The way to get sharp and clear audio is to deliver a clean signal, not a distorted signal, to the amplifier. For the initial setup, disconnect the subwoofer so it does not power on. If you want to set the gain control, you need to start with the in-dash receiver. Turn all of the receiver's settings to zero. That means EQ, bass boost, loudness off, every audio setting that changes how loud the system is get's set to zero to start. Once you have all the settings to zero, choose an audio source with your favorite music. I like to use USB or CD as my test music source. Even your favorite FM radio station will work. I don't recommend using Bluetooth Audio as the test source. Bluetooth Audio has it's own gain settings to worry about. On your favorite song, slowly turn up the master volume on the audio system. Remember, the subwoofer should be off for this part of the setup. Slowly, turn up the master volume on the receiver until you begin to hear noise or distortion coming from the speakers. With all of the audio settings set to zero, you should be able to turn the volume up near it's maximum before you hear noise or distortion. Now, turn the volume back a little lower just to be safe. Take note of this volume level number on this particular audio source. This is the max clean output you can expect from the in-dash receiver, and it's the output level you'll use to set the gain on the subwoofer amplifier. Now turn the volume level back down to zero and turn the system off. Connect your subwoofer so it will power on with the rest of the system, and power on the system. At this point the audio system should be on and the subwoofer should be on. On the subwoofer amplifier set the gain control to mid way. Go to the receiver on the same test music source and turn up the master volume to about 30% of the max clean output. Now go to the subwoofer amplifier and slowly adjust the gain control. Turn the gain control clockwise and take note of the output of the subwoofer when the gain is turned clockwise. Is it louder? Or is it quieter? Now slowly turn the gain control counter clockwise, past mid way all the way down. Is the subwoofer's output louder? or quieter? Turning one way will make the subwoofer louder, and the other way will make the subwoofer quieter. This is important to understand. Remember, the gain control is not a volume control. The amplifier's gain control is used to balance the output signal from the in-dash receiver with the input on the subwoofer amplifier. Too much gain will cause distortion, or noise in the subwoofer's output. Not enough gain, and the subwoofer output will be too low and not deliver the performance you want. You use the gain control to find the balance. Now raise the receiver's master volume control to the max clean output. Go to the subwoofer and adjust the gain control so that you get good output performance but do not at any time hear distortion or noise coming from the subwoofer. When you hear noise or distortion turn the gain back just a bit. If you're hearing distortion or noise you can damage or destroy the subwoofer. Don't be afraid to drive around for a day or two and then make a small adjustment to the gain control. However, once you've made your gain control setting correctly, they should be left alone. As for the Phase switch, try both normal and reverse. One of these settings may sound significantly better than the other in your particular vehicle. Try normal first. Drive around for a few days and take note of what you are hearing. Then switch to reverse phase. Drive around for a few days and take note of what you are hearing. Choose the one that sounds best to you. If you don't hear a difference in your vehicle, set it to normal and don't worry about it. Audio, is a fun hobby that can last a lifetime. You can't learn all there is to know in the same day. There is quite a lot to it. Every system and situation can be very different. Be patient and learn a little at a time. Use what you've learned to make a better audio system and continue the process. If you'd like to learn more about crossover settings and slopes for crossovers, take a look at this video: ruclips.net/video/WvJXYh6vk_0/видео.html You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
There are a few potential issues that immediately come to mind. 1. Are you sure you are showing the amp a total of a 1 ohm load? You seem to have more than one woofer connected. Is each woofer 1 ohm? Do you have the woofers connected in series or in parallel? Two woofers each with a 1 ohm load and wired in parallel is showing the amp a 1/2 ohm load. That will shut the amp down. The two speaker connections on the amp are really just one connection, and you need to treat them as just one connection. 2. What does the voltage measure at the amplifier, when you turn up the volume. What is the voltage at the battery when you turn up the volume. If the voltage is dropping below 12 volts at the amplifier when you are playing high volume, that could also be shutting down the amp. 3. Be sure to check the amplifier's ground connection. You'll need a clean metal connection with the same gauge wire as the power wire from the battery. This can cause a voltage drop at the amp, and shut it down.
Can I use 2 pioneer tsw 1211d4 Which wring best parrel or series Or pioneer 1 tsw 3003 d4 1 subwofer parrel or series which is best sub and setting I also purchased 9701 I am using 1 subwofer ts w 1211d4 but after use 2 hr...my sub..burn..so pls help me.. suggest
The Pioneer GM-D9701 is a very powerful amplifier. It can produce continuous power of 500 watts at 4 ohms, or 800 watts at 2 ohms, or 1,200 watts at 1 ohm. The way you wire your subwoofer to the amplifier will determine the amount of power the amplifier delivers to the subwoofer. I recommend to use the Pioneer TS-W3003D4. It has 2 voice coils. Each of the voice coils is 4 ohms. For best reliability, I recommend to wire just one 4 ohm voice coil to the amplifier. This will deliver 500 watts at 4 ohms. The subwoofer is designed to handle 600 watts of power continuous and this will be a very reliable setup. If you want to use both voice coils and show 2 ohms to the amplifier you will deliver 800 watts continuous to the woofer. If you do this you'll need to be careful with the volume and not destroy the subwoofer. The internal volume of the enclosure used for the speaker is critical to good performance. Please be sure to install the Pioneer TS-W3003D4 in a proper sized enclosure. 35.4 liters for a sealed enclosure or 42.5 liters for a ported enclosure as clearly shown in the manual for the Pioneer TS-W3003D4 seen here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/TS-W3003D4_InstructionManual092216.pdf You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to operate in a vehicle delivering DC 14.4 volts. (10.8 to 15.1 volts allowable) Current consumption with 4 ohm load at continuous power is 38 Amps. I don't know anything about your security camera power adapter. You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
can i use this @1 ohm for 1200rms to power my 306c dvc (400rms) and 308d4 (400rms) down to 2ohms, parallel wired to go down further to 1 ohm. they both will be 800rms so should i set the gain down or can i run it how i want? or should i go for a 8701 instead? i haven't heard good reviews about the 8701 so wanted to for the 9701 to run it @1ohms 1200rms or @4ohms 500rms
If your goal is to build a reliable and great sounding system, then these amps and speakers are a great choice. One ohm impedance is no trouble for these amplifiers. However, it may not be the best choice for your particular setup. Lowering the impedance on the amp just because you can do it, doesn't make good sense. Just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should. I recommend to choose the impedance that offers you the best sounding and most reliable performance for your chosen subwoofers. You want to find the best combination of great performance and great reliability. The question is, how loud do you like to play your system on a regular basis? If you like reasonable listening levels, and occasionally hammer the bass the answer goes one direction. If you like to hammer the system all the time, the answer goes in a different direction. In order to build a great sounding and reliable system, you have to make a plan so the subwoofers you have listed can handle the power output from the amp over long term usage. If you want a reliable system, I recommend using the GM-D9701 at 4 ohms total circuit impedance with these subwoofers. If you choose to run them at one or two ohms, this amp has enough power to destroy the subs. You'll need to use the subwoofer output controls on the in-dash receiver very conservatively or you will destroy the subs. If you use GM-D8701 in a reliable system, you can wire at 4 ohms or at 2 ohms total circuit impedance and get excellent and reliable performance from both the amp and subs. Running the GM-D8701 at 1 ohm, will push the subs to their limits and if they begin to fail, they will start to push the amplifier to it's limits as well. The Pioneer GM-D9701 and the Pioneer GM-DX971 seen here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-DX971 are designed to operate down to 1 ohm impedance. The Pioneer GM-D8701 and the Pioneer GM-DX871 seen here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-DX871 are also designed to operate down to 1 ohm impedance. The GM-D8701 is a great amp and has many great reviews. Here is one: ruclips.net/video/_BzOAOBc-yA/видео.html Here is another review from GM-D9601, very similar in design to GM-D9701: ruclips.net/video/ujYIgE96gk8/видео.html You can learn more about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
@@pioneerelectronics thank you for the response, how do i wire my *2* 4 ohm dvcs to 2ohms? considering I'll be using them both, they'll either go down to 1 ohms or 4 ohms while using a mono block
@@pioneerelectronics personally i like to hammer the subs, like them pushed to their limit but not for more than 10mins (maxed). after that i play them normally @75% music volume (still higher for most people ). i would love to have a reliable yet powerful system. so for that should i go for the 8701 and play them @1ohm with 800rms and set the gain so my subs aren't damaged? or should i go for the 9701 running @4ohms 500rms with gains for more power? what would be best for reliability with power? i fully understand what these subs and amplifier are capable of, just couldn't figure out what would be best (in terms of a perfect match)
@@themountain6437 You like to hammer the subs. OK great. To make a reliable system, you'll need to be more conservative about your power output and setup or you'll need to replace speakers before you want to. I recommend to use the GM-D9701 at 4 ohms. Pushing 500 continuous watts at high output for these subs is pushing them to their absolute limit + about 20% The amplifier's gain control is not meant to be a volume control for the amp. The amplifier's gain control is used to balance the output signal from the in-dash receiver with the input on the subwoofer amplifier. Too much gain will cause distortion, or noise in the subwoofer's output. This can damage or destroy the subwoofer. Not enough gain, and the subwoofer output will be too low and not deliver the performance you want. You use the gain control to find the balance. The way to get sharp and clear audio is to deliver a clean signal, not a distorted signal, to the amplifier. There is more to this story. It's a longer answer, but you may find some useful ideas for setting up your system. If you are using a hammer and you hit your thumb, don't blame the hammer. The goal is to create an audio system with little or no distortion. If the in-dash receiver's RCA outputs clip they create a distorted audio signal. That distorted audio signal is then in turn amplified by the subwoofer amp or other amplifiers in the system. In a well designed and set up audio system, you should be able to turn up the master volume to, or near it's maximum, and not hear any distortion from the speakers in the system. If you have all of these settings (for example: EQ, speaker levels, crossover levels, bass boost etc...) set to zero or lower you should be able to turn the volume up to it's max, and the RCA outputs of the in-dash receiver should not clip and create distortion that will in turn be amplified by your system. If you add in a boosted signal on the in-dash receiver from any of the audio controls (for example: EQ, speaker levels, crossover levels, bass boost etc...) this may cause the in-dash receiver's RCA outputs to clip and create distortion at high output levels. So... Here is an example. This is hypothetical, please don't take the numbers literally and try to translate them to any given in-dash receiver. In this best case scenario I have excellent amplifiers and well matched speakers. My in-dash receiver master volume control has a maximum volume level number of 50. I have all of the audio settings set to zero, and I can turn up the master volume to 50 and the RCA outputs do not clip. I set the gains on the amplifiers so that there is no distortion. That's what I want. Now, I add in a subwoofer level control adjustment of +5. When I turn up the master volume I can get to only volume level 45 before I begin to hear distortion coming from my speakers. If I add in an EQ adjustment on the 80Hz frequency band of +4, my master volume begins to distort now at volume level 41. Remember I started at volume level 50 with no distortion. Please note this is just a hypothetical example. In this example, the in-dash receiver is causing the distortion and sending that distorted signal to the amplifiers. The amps and speakers are simply doing the job they were designed to do. What's the solution? Use the audio controls to your best advantage. If you set them to zero or lower, your in-dash receiver shouldn't be creating noise. Set the gain controls on your amplifiers so you don't hear any distortion at high volume levels. If you want to add in a +1 or +2, that's OK as long as you realize you may be getting distortion at the highest volume levels. You need to find the settings that works best for you. If you are trying to balance your system so all of the speakers are at or near the same volume level, consider lowering the volume level of some speakers rather than raising the volume level of one individual speaker. If you are using Bluetooth Audio as your main music source, consider lowering the volume level on the Phone. It's possible, the phone is overloading the input through Bluetooth Audio, and the distortion is beginning right there. If you set the volume level on the phone lower, you may be able to turn up the master volume level on the in-dash receiver with less distortion. If you want more volume, you might want to consider a more powerful amplifier and speakers.
The Pioneer GM-D9701 will deliver 1,200 watts RMS at 1 ohm. This may be too much power for your subs. To help avoid damage to the speakers, you may consider wiring the woofers at 4ohms. This lower the output from the Pioneer GM-D9701 to approximately 500 watts RMS. You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/-Uq25Goo0sU/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
The Pioneer GM-D9701 works great at 1 ohm producing 1,200 watts. This is enough power to damage or destroy the two Pioneer TS-W3003D4 when wired to show the amplifier 1 ohm. I recommend a couple different possible solutions. One possible solution is If you want to use a Pioneer GM-D9701, wire the woofers at 4 ohms. They will still hit hard. This will lower the amount of power produced by the amplifier and will help to protect the speakers making them more reliable over time. The other possible solution is to use a Pioneer GM-D8701 amplifier. You can see it here: ruclips.net/video/-Uq25Goo0sU/видео.html This amplifier also works great at 1 ohm and will produce 800 watts. This is much more in line with the power handling of the Pioneer TS-W3003D4 woofers. Be careful with your gain control on the amplifier and they should work well. You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here:
Yes it will be great. The Pioneer GM-D9701 has 1200 watts RMS output at 1 ohm. You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
That really depends upon what YOU mean when you say "push" in your question above. The Pioneer GM-D9701 will operate reliably at 1 Ohm. If you wire the 3 woofers so they show the amplifier a combined 1 ohm load, the GM-D9701 will deliver 1000 watts RMS all day long. For many people, this would be considered "pushing" the subs and depending upon the vehicle this will likely really hammer. I don't recommend to wire your 3 woofers below 1 ohm and expect this amplifier to perform at 1000 watts. Below 1 ohm the amp may go into protection mode and shut down, or it may play at a significantly lower performance level, depending upon the load shown to the amp. If you really want to "push" these 3 woofers, I recommend to get 3 separate Pioneer GM-D9701 amps. Wire each of your dual voice coil woofers so it will show the amplifier a 1 ohm load, and use 1 amp per woofer. That will deliver 1000 watts to each individual woofer. When you're in that vehicle, you'll know those woofers are there. You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
@@deckerdotto6035 ya putting 3 in a sealed box in a grand caravan I don't need mind blowing bass just like to feel my music lol what other options for a amplifier would be better buying 3 of them amplifiers would be over $400 got to be a single amplifier out there that can do the job lol
Thank you for clarifying what you mean by "push" those woofers. I understand better now. The Pioneer GM-D9701 will work great in that application, and in that vehicle. You'll be able to feel your music. No question about it. Have Fun!
Each of the speaker outputs is a mono output. You can find more videos about Pioneer Amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
It is a mono block alot of companies do this so if speakers are in separate chambers they are still in series so you get the 2 ohm or 1 ohm load your after if subs are dvc
I recommend 14.4 volts. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to operate between. 10.8 and 15.1 volts. You can find the owner's manual for the Pioneer GM-D9701 here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/GM-D8701_DX871_D9701_DX971_OwnersManual031319.pdf You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
My question was not about Voltage but CURRENT consumption with 1 Ohm load at continuous power (the amperes that the amp requires at 1 Ohm load to function optimally.
Under a heavy continuous load and operating at 1 ohm impedance, you can expect the amplifier to draw nearly 120 amps of current at 14 volts. For most reliable operation, I recommend a power supply capable of delivering 125 amps of current.
You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
"Will this be enough" is a very personal opinion. What is "enough" for one person is not "enough" for another. And I don't know what vehicle you have. For me, this will be "enough" and then some. The Pioneer GM-D9701 has tons of power for your setup and your kicker subs will absolutely slam in many different vehicles. You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
The Pioneer GM-D9701 is an updated design utilizing higher quality audio components. The signal input stage updated. Power output is the same as previous model. You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Yes, you can, however, how you wire the speakers to the amp is very important for reliable operation of both the speakers and the amplifier. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to operate reliably with an impedance load between 8 and 1 ohms. If you have 3 subwoofers, you'll need to wire them so they show the amplifier an impedance load higher than 1 ohm. You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
The Pioneer GM-D9701 is the newer model with the latest design. If you are interested in better sound quality and power, please check out Pioneer GM-DX971. The Pioneer GM-DX971 uses Pioneer designed and manufactured high quality acoustic elements within the audio signal chain of the amplifier. For example: Pioneer brand Audio Capacitors for higher audio quality and additional stability in the power supply. The use of these Pioneer brand audio components for power, headroom, and reliability is the difference. The top panel is milled from aluminum for excellent heat dispersion, lower magnetic properties, and show grade cosmetics. That and the gold plated RCA's. GM-D9701 is an excellent amplifier but does not have these features. You can learn more here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-DX971 You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
There is no 1 correct setting for the gain on Pioneer GM-D9701. It depends upon many factors including what in-dash receiver you are using and what speakers you have connected to the amplifier. Please watch this with the sound on: ruclips.net/video/6h3b_c3Yxnk/видео.html If you don't know the output voltage of your receiver, start at the "Normal" position and slowly adjust toward the "H" position until you hear no distortion coming from the attached speakers. If you are using a hammer and you hit your thumb, don't blame the hammer. The goal is to create an audio system with little or no distortion. If the in-dash receiver's RCA outputs clip they create a distorted audio signal. That distorted audio signal is then in turn amplified by the subwoofer amp or other amplifiers in the system. In a well designed and set up audio system, you should be able to turn up the master volume to, or near it's maximum, and not hear any distortion from the speakers in the system. If you have all of these settings (for example: EQ, speaker levels, crossover levels, bass boost etc...) set to zero or lower you should be able to turn the volume up to it's max, and the RCA outputs of the in-dash receiver should not clip and create distortion that will in turn be amplified by your system. If you add in a boosted signal on the in-dash receiver from any of the audio controls (for example: EQ, speaker levels, crossover levels, bass boost etc...) this may cause the in-dash receiver's RCA outputs to clip and create distortion at high output levels. So... Here is an example. This is hypothetical, please don't take the numbers literally and try to translate them to any given in-dash receiver. In this best case scenario I have excellent amplifiers and well matched speakers. My in-dash receiver master volume control has a maximum volume level number of 50. I have all of the audio settings set to zero, and I can turn up the master volume to 50 and the RCA outputs do not clip. I set the gains on the amplifiers so that there is no distortion. That's what I want. Now, I add in a subwoofer level control adjustment of +5. When I turn up the master volume I can get to only volume level 45 before I begin to hear distortion coming from my speakers. If I add in an EQ adjustment on the 80Hz frequency band of +4, my master volume begins to distort now at volume level 41. Remember I started at volume level 50 with no distortion. Please note this is just a hypothetical example. In this example, the in-dash receiver is causing the distortion and sending that distorted signal to the amplifiers. The amps and speakers are simply doing the job they were designed to do. What's the solution? Use the audio controls to your best advantage. If you set them to zero or lower, your in-dash receiver shouldn't be creating noise. Set the gain controls on your amplifiers so you don't hear any distortion at high volume levels. If you want to add in a +1 or +2, that's OK as long as you realize you may be getting distortion at the highest volume levels. You need to find the settings that works best for you. If you are trying to balance your system so all of the speakers are at or near the same volume level, consider lowering the volume level of some speakers rather than raising the volume level of one individual speaker. If you are using Bluetooth Audio as your main music source, consider lowering the volume level on the Phone. It's possible, the phone is overloading the input through Bluetooth Audio, and the distortion is beginning right there. If you set the volume level on the phone lower, you may be able to turn up the master volume level on the in-dash receiver with less distortion. If you want more volume, you might want to consider a more powerful amplifier and speakers. You can find more videos about Pioneer NEX in-dash receiver's here: ruclips.net/video/PeH_h8UHzBw/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
The Pioneer GM-D9701 is a great amp. Tons of power and extremely reliable. The GM-DX971 is better. It uses higher grade Pioneer manufactured audio capacitors for greater headroom in the system. For an SPL setup I would go with GM-DX971 for it's peak output capability. The GM-DX971 is around $100 more. It's worth the extra money to me.
Yes, it'll be great if you wire the woofers the right way. Please read my answer. The Pioneer GM-D9701 will put out 1,200 watts RMS at 1 ohm. If you wire your subs together and show the amplifier 1 ohm, you'll have a ton of power available. This may be too much power and you could damage or destroy the subs, if you tend to listen at very high levels and depending upon your source and gain settings. Your subs are rated at 750 watts RMS. If you wire the woofers to the amplifier at 2 ohms the amp will put out 800 watts RMS and that's a very good fit. Again, be careful with the gain control on the amplifier and if you hear distortion back off before you destroy the speakers. For better sound quality and performance please also consider the Pioneer GM-DX971. The GM-DX971 is the higher end version of the GM-D9701. The GM-DX971 has Pioneer manufactured audio capacitors for a cleaner signal path and better headroom and transient response. 9701 is a great amp. GM-DX971 is even better. You can learn more here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-DX971 If you want to run the woofers at 1 ohm, I recommend using the Pioneer GM-D8701 amp. You can see it here: ruclips.net/video/-Uq25Goo0sU/видео.html You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
The Pioneer GM-D9701 will produce about 500 watts RMS at a 4 ohm load. That will work great for Pioneer TS-W3003D4. It will be powerful and reliable. And well within the power range of the subwoofer. The TS-W3003D4 is a dual voice coil subwoofer, and if you wire it at 2 ohms, the GM-D9701 will produce about 800 watts RMS. This is higher than the rating for the subwoofer, however, if you carefully set the amplifier's gain control, and are careful with the volume on daily use, this will also work great. You can learn more about Pioneer Amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/-Uq25Goo0sU/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
For the Pioneer GM-D9701, I recommend to use 6 or 4 gauge wire depending upon the length of run from the vehicle's battery to the amplifier. 6 gauge for 4 feet to 11 feet and, 4 gauge for up to 20 feet. Please be sure to place a 150 amp fuse on the power wire within 12 inches of the vehicle's battery. And to use the power cable and ground cable of the same gauge. I recommend 8 or 10 gauge wire for the speaker connection. Enclosure internal volume is critical for best performance from the subwoofer. The recommended enclosure for the Pioneer TS-W3003D4 is internal volume of 1.25 cubic feet or 35.4 liters. You can see it here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/TS-W3003D4_InstructionManual092216.pdf You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
@deckerd otto this is what I have the GM-D9701 with the ts w3003d4 at 2ohm with the gain set to 34.6volts which if I'm correct is 600w rms. I also have the TS D12d4 speaker which is the exact same wattage power. Which speaker would you recommend to power with the amp?? I have not found anyone who can answer and I haven't gotten round to testing it myself yet.
Hi, i am using this amp to run the 2 JBL stadium 1224, at 1 ohm load and total 1000watt rms. But when i raise the volume above than 20 from my after market stereo, this amp start tripping, whats the issue. Note that i did BIG3 upgrade in my car electricity wiring. What i have to do further? Guide please ???
I strongly recommend power and ground wire to the amplifier of the same gauge. A lack of voltage delivered to the amplifier will cause it to shut down under a heavier operation. Please be sure to check the connections are not loose, particularly the ground to the vehicle. This is often overlooked and a source of trouble. If the wiring is all inspected and good, I suspect, the JBL's are showing the amplifier a combined load far below 1 ohm under dynamic operation. They may be rated at 2 ohms, but when playing music they are dipping far below 2. I recommend to experiment a little. 1st. This is very important to create a base line to experiment. On your receiver, set all of the bass boost, and EQ settings to zero All of the boost settings, set them to zero. And the bass boost on the amplifier set it to zero. This is your bass line. Don't change it for now. 2nd switch the JBL's to 4 ohm operation. Wire one JBL at 4 ohms to each of the speaker outputs on the Pioneer GM-D9701. This will deliver more power from the amplifier than the RMS rating of the JBL's. 3rd. roll the amplifier's gain control back. Start at the 12 o'clock position. Next, simply use your system for a few days to check If this works more reliably. If this works more reliably, slowly begin to use the bass boost control on the amplifier to add more bottom. If it's still reliable, slowly add in EQ settings. I don't recommend using the 2 ohm setting on the JBL's. The Pioneer GM-D9701 amplifier is very capable of playing at 1 ohm and delivering 1200 watts RMS. That's enough to smoke these speakers, so be careful. You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
@@deckerdotto6035 Hi sir, i have two subs of JBL 1224, and i tried individual 2 ohm and 4 ohm both. At 2 ohm my amp is still tripping on high volume, and at 4 ohm even on 30-35 level of volume, subs looks underpowered. Kindly note that i have set the gain to 11oclock and frequency to 125. And the bass boost remote to 0, and my stereo equliser is treble 0, Bass -1. Thats the settings i have. And about power, i use 4 guage wire for battery and ground wire(same wire). I even did the BIG3 upgrade in my car electric system, to manage the perfect ground but no change still its dropping the voltages on high volume and dropping less than 11 volts, so thats the reason my amp is tripping on high volume. I have tried everything sir.
@@deckerdotto6035 And sir JBL stadium 1224 id 500watt rms each so total is 1000 watt at 1 ohm, pairing in parallel. I even checked the impedence output of subs its 1 ohm exact. When i tried both subs invidually to amp at 2 ohm the result was same(amp tripping). And when i tried both subs individually to amp at 4 ohm subs drives underpowered. So i have paired them in parallel taking 1 ohm impedence at output and the final rms power is 1000watt rms, i set gain at 11oclock and frequency at 125 and subs are bumping very fine but till i put volume from my stereo to 20 level. Above 20 amp starts tripping.
Thank you for your reply. You noted above, the voltage is dropping below 11 volts and the amplifier is shutting off. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to operate between 10.8 volts and 15.1 volts. I recommend voltage of around 14.4 when the vehicle is running. When the voltage drops below 10.8 volts the amplifier will shut down. This is normal operation for the amplifier. If the vehicle is running and can't deliver the proper voltage to the amplifier don't blame the amplifier. You kindly mentioned several times you did some variety of "BIG3" upgrade. It's possible this was upgrade not done correctly. Or you'll need an upgraded alternator to support the voltage draw.
@@deckerdotto6035 the BIG3 wiring upgrade is that i attach the +ve terminal of alternator with +ve of battery with 0guage wire,and -ve terminal of battery with the chasis with o guage and engine ground point to the chasis also with 0 guage, this upgrade can stablize the voltages and make the ground perfect as per my knowledge, and i done it quiet well as i checked everything even after installations. And yup sir you are right, i am thinking to do upgrades in alternator of the vehicle, can you guide about the alternator specs which suits my situation as you know all about.
The Pioneer GM-DX9701 uses Pioneer designed and manufactured high quality acoustic elements within the audio signal chain of the amplifier. For example: Pioneer brand Audio Capacitors for higher audio quality and additional stability in the power supply. The use of these Pioneer brand audio components for power, headroom, and reliability is the difference. The top panel is milled from aluminum for excellent heat dispersion, lower magnetic properties, and show grade cosmetics. That and the gold plated RCA's. GM-D9701 is an excellent amplifier but does not have these features. You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
The owner's manual and warranty card are clearly shown in the video here: ruclips.net/video/6h3b_c3Yxnk/видео.html If you did not receiver these items when you bought your amplifier you should contact the store where you purchased the product and ask for these items. You can find the owner's manual for Pioneer GM-D9701 here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D9701#manuals You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
That's a tough question to answer. It depends upon what you think an SPL amplifier is. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is a mono subwoofer amplifier. It can deliver 1,200 watts RMS at 1 ohm. That's a very powerful amplifier, though certainly not the most powerful you can find. Pioneer amplifiers are designed to be excellent sound quality amplifiers and still have great power. You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
The only problem I have is the fact that it doesn't turn off just drains your battery dont know why it was built that way because everything else is damn near perfect
This is not normal operation. Please read this answer. It's very likely you have the amp wired incorrectly. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to Switch Off when the vehicle's in-dash receiver is Switched Off or, when the vehicle is off. If the GM-D9701 remains switched on when the vehicle is off and the key removed, door open, there is a strong possibility the amplifier is wired incorrectly. Please look at the System Control Terminal seen here: ruclips.net/video/6h3b_c3Yxnk/видео.html DO NOT wire a jumper from the + terminal to the System Control Terminal. This will cause the amplifier to stay on even when the vehicle is off and this will kill the vehicle's battery. The System control should be wired to the back of your in-dash receiver and connected to the Blue Wire with White Stripe. You can learn more about the System Control wire Blue/White here: ruclips.net/video/kR2MO2kwFug/видео.html If your in-dash receiver is staying on when the vehicle is powered off, there is a different issue. You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
You'll need a 12 volt power supply with enough amperage to operate the amplifier. Many are available. Here is one possibility: www.cascadeaudio.com/power_converters/power_converters.htm You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
![OhGeesy x Lefty Gunplay - What It Iz [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L0yzW9t2ixk/mqdefault.jpg)
This amp is so beautiful and powerful, definitely buying this.
You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Hi Deckerd, I have this amp powering 2 pioneer Champion Pro Series 12s wired down to 1ohm at 1200RMs with the GM-D 8704 running my mids & highs. My question is I keep noticing everyone is calling the control a Bass Boost Knob rather then Bass Control. Is it actually a bass boost knob instead of having a bass boost control on the amp or is it a genuine bass control level as In if I set my gains with a DD+1 with the bass knob in turned up full volume and decide to turn the knob down it will turn the power of the whole amp down (gains down) like every other amp? Many thanks.
When using a subwoofer amplifier with an LPF crossover, a bass boost and an amplifier level control may appear to be very similar in operation.
The Pioneer GM-D9701 has a Bass Boost remote control knob.
The frequency response of the GM-D9701 is from 10Hz to 240Hz. And the amp's Bass Boost if centered at 50Hz. The bass boost if from 0dB to +18dB.
When the Bass Boost remote control is set to min, you are adding 0 additional boost at 50Hz.
When the Bass Boost remote control is set to max you are adding up to +18dB at 50 Hz.
The bass boost is centered at 50 Hz.
However please note and, this is the part that gets overlooked by uneducated users that commonly write in forums and other internet groups:
Even though the bass boost center is 50 Hz, other frequencies are also effected at a rate of approximately 12dB per octave. This means, when you add in a boost at 50 Hz, you are also effecting all of the frequencies from 25Hz, to 100Hz. Just to be clear, one octave below 50Hz is 25 Hz. And one octave above 50Hz is 100Hz. So all of the frequencies from 25 to 100 are boosted with the peak in the middle at 50 Hz.
You did not mention what crossover frequency you have chosen, or the slope of the crossover.
Here is a hypothetical example: This is just an example, it's not necessarily the perfect answer for every system.
If I'm using an LPF crossover on the subwoofer amplifier and the crossover is set to 80Hz at a slope of 24dB per octave, that means only the low frequencies from 80Hz and lower are coming to the amp and being played by the subwoofers.
So now , the effective frequency response of the amplifier is 25Hz to 80Hz.
When I adjust the 50Hz Bass Boost, I'm really adjusting from 25Hz to 100Hz and I'm really adjusting all of the frequencies that the amp is playing. Again that's based on a crossover set to 80Hz.
So you see, when using a bass boost in a narrow band frequency response the bass boost it effecting all of the output.
That's why the bass boost may seem like a amp level control.
You can learn more about crossovers on Pioneer receivers in this How To video from Pioneer: ruclips.net/video/WvJXYh6vk_0/видео.html
You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Is the included knob a bass knob or a bass boost knob? I see that the amp itself doesn’t have a bass boost dial like most other amplifiers, so is this knob meant to keep at 100% and turn down if needed or is meant to be kept at 0% and only turned up if u need more bass?
The Pioneer GM-D9701 includes a Bass Boost Remote control. When the bass boost remote control is set to "min" or turned counter clockwise to it's limit, there is no additional bass boost added to the signal. When the bass boost remote control is turned to "max", or clockwise to it's limit, the bass boost above the normal signal is up to 18dB.
I recommend to start with the bass boos remote control at min, and add in more bass as you like it. Take your time. You can always make more adjustments.
There is more to this answer. Please keep reading.
The amplifiers Bass Boost is centered at 50Hz. This means when you turn up the bass boost you are turning up the volume with a peak at 50Hz. The peak at 50Hz rolls off higher at ~12dB per octave, and lower at ~12dB per octave.
One octave higher or at 100Hz, there is little or no additional boost. One octave lower or at 25Hz there is little or no additional boost.
Additionally, please keep in mind the crossover, or LPF setting you are using on the amplifier is also effecting the output of the bass boost setting. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to playback frequencies from 10Hz to 240Hz. The crossover or LPF setting you choose, for example ~80Hz means frequencies above 80Hz are not played back by the amplifier.
If the bass boost is centered at 50Hz, and you have the LPF crossover set to 80Hz, you're only boosting up to about 80Hz before the crossover over is filtering out all of the signal. From 50Hz and lower will be boosted one octave lower down to about 25Hz.
In order for you to hear a difference in the bass boost remote control settings, please be sure you are listening to music that has information below 80Hz and in particular 50Hz and lower.
You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
hey. i had pioneers 306c dvc and 308d4, what type of enclosure is the best way to play both of them together? (2 woofers playing on 8601, 400rms each running on 2ohms)
Single big enclosure with single port?
single enclosure with a separation (chamber) and 2 ports?
keeping in mind i have a trunk and would like to go 30-45hz. i listen to hip hop and please help me out with the dimensions as well :)
This is an interesting question. I'll do a little research and get back to you.
I had this amp connected with 2 12in kicker comp r with impedence switch set at 1 ohm the subs blew and im looking for info for a good matching pair of subs for the gm-d9701
The Pioneer GM-D9701 will put out 500 watts x 1 at 4 ohms. The Pioneer TS-D12D4 is a good option. You can see it here: ruclips.net/video/ZLRZ0A6ZJIo/видео.html I recommend to run a pair of Pioneer TS-D12D4 subs each at 4 ohms. This will give you room to adjust the subwoofer output of your system and still deliver great reliability. The recommended sealed enclosure size for the Pioneer TS-D12D4 is 28.3 L or 1 cubic foot internal volume. When using the Pioneer TS-D12D4 in a vented enclosure I recommend an internal volume of 28.3 L or 1 Cubic foot with a port inside diameter of 76mm or 3 inches and port length of 152 mm or 6 inches. You can find more videos about Pioneer woofers here: ruclips.net/video/QgG1mu2u3XI/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Recently buy this D9701 2400w but when always I turn up the volume it goes into protection mode.Already check alternator,battery,Ground,wiring,Gain is about 5v but still same issue.On other side if volume is normal (half volume) so its working properly.I have android screen
You did not mention anything about the speakers connected to the amplifier. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to operate reliably at 8, 4, 2, and 1 ohm impedance. If you push the amplifier lower than 1 ohm impedance, it will protect itself. What speakers are connected to the amplifier? What is the impedance of the speakers? Are the speakers single voice coil, or dual voice coil? Are the speakers wired in parallel? Or in a series? Or a combination? What is the overall impedance of the speaker circuit shown to the amplifier? What is the voltage measured at the amplifiers power connection while the amp is playing? The lower the voltage at the amp power connection the closer it is to shut down. Allowable voltage is 10.8 to 15.1 volts. The higher side is better. For example 12, or 14 volts at the amplifier power connection while the amp is playing is what you should expect to see. At high volume and playing heavy bass notes, the voltage must not drop below 10.8 volts or the system will shut down.
what is the best Gain setting
With rockfoord Punch P3D4-12 600 RMS @2ohm
The gain control is not a volume control.
The gain control on an amplifier is used to balance the Output from the in-dash receiver with the Input on the amplifier.
Here is the short answer: What in-dash receiver are you using? If you are using a Pioneer receiver with 2 volt RCA outputs, I recommend setting the amplifier's gain control to the "Normal" position. If you are using a Pioneer receiver with 4 volt outputs, I recommend setting the amplifier's gain control to the "H" position. This is a good place to start. Small adjustments from there is the best path.
If you want a more detailed explanation, please keep reading:
This is a long answer. Please take a few minutes to read the entire answer. Setting the gain control is easy. Don't be afraid of it. There is no one perfect amplifier gain setting. If there was, the amplifiers would be set that way at the factory. All audio systems are different and you need to adjust the gain control for good performance with your particular system. The amplifier's gain control is used to balance the output signal from the in-dash receiver with the input on the subwoofer amplifier. Too much gain will cause distortion, or noise in the subwoofer's output. This can damage or destroy the subwoofer. Not enough gain, and the subwoofer output will be too low and not deliver the performance you want. You use the gain control to find the balance. The way to get sharp and clear audio is to deliver a clean signal, not a distorted signal, to the amplifier. For the initial setup, disconnect the subwoofer so it does not power on. If you want to set the gain control, you need to start with the in-dash receiver. Turn all of the receiver's settings to zero. That means EQ, bass boost, loudness off, every audio setting that changes how loud the system is get's set to zero to start. Once you have all the settings to zero, choose an audio source with your favorite music. I like to use USB or CD as my test music source. Even your favorite FM radio station will work. I don't recommend using Bluetooth Audio as the test source. Bluetooth Audio has it's own gain settings to worry about. On your favorite song, slowly turn up the master volume on the audio system. Remember, the subwoofer should be off for this part of the setup. Slowly, turn up the master volume on the receiver until you begin to hear noise or distortion coming from the speakers. With all of the audio settings set to zero, you should be able to turn the volume up near it's maximum before you hear noise or distortion. Now, turn the volume back a little lower just to be safe. Take note of this volume level number on this particular audio source. This is the max clean output you can expect from the in-dash receiver, and it's the output level you'll use to set the gain on the subwoofer amplifier. Now turn the volume level back down to zero and turn the system off. Connect your subwoofer so it will power on with the rest of the system, and power on the system. At this point the audio system should be on and the subwoofer should be on. On the subwoofer amplifier set the gain control to mid way. Go to the receiver on the same test music source and turn up the master volume to about 30% of the max clean output. Now go to the subwoofer amplifier and slowly adjust the gain control. Turn the gain control clockwise and take note of the output of the subwoofer when the gain is turned clockwise. Is it louder? Or is it quieter? Now slowly turn the gain control counter clockwise, past mid way all the way down. Is the subwoofer's output louder? or quieter? Turning one way will make the subwoofer louder, and the other way will make the subwoofer quieter. This is important to understand. Remember, the gain control is not a volume control. The amplifier's gain control is used to balance the output signal from the in-dash receiver with the input on the subwoofer amplifier. Too much gain will cause distortion, or noise in the subwoofer's output. Not enough gain, and the subwoofer output will be too low and not deliver the performance you want. You use the gain control to find the balance. Now raise the receiver's master volume control to the max clean output. Go to the subwoofer and adjust the gain control so that you get good output performance but do not at any time hear distortion or noise coming from the subwoofer. When you hear noise or distortion turn the gain back just a bit. If you're hearing distortion or noise you can damage or destroy the subwoofer. Don't be afraid to drive around for a day or two and then make a small adjustment to the gain control. However, once you've made your gain control setting correctly, they should be left alone.
As for the Phase switch, try both normal and reverse. One of these settings may sound significantly better than the other in your particular vehicle. Try normal first. Drive around for a few days and take note of what you are hearing. Then switch to reverse phase. Drive around for a few days and take note of what you are hearing. Choose the one that sounds best to you. If you don't hear a difference in your vehicle, set it to normal and don't worry about it.
Audio, is a fun hobby that can last a lifetime. You can't learn all there is to know in the same day. There is quite a lot to it. Every system and situation can be very different. Be patient and learn a little at a time. Use what you've learned to make a better audio system and continue the process. If you'd like to learn more about crossover settings and slopes for crossovers, take a look at this video: ruclips.net/video/WvJXYh6vk_0/видео.html You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
I have this amp running at 1 ohm and it’s powering my skar audio sdr 12’s, but at high volume it goes into protect
There are a few potential issues that immediately come to mind.
1. Are you sure you are showing the amp a total of a 1 ohm load? You seem to have more than one woofer connected. Is each woofer 1 ohm? Do you have the woofers connected in series or in parallel? Two woofers each with a 1 ohm load and wired in parallel is showing the amp a 1/2 ohm load. That will shut the amp down.
The two speaker connections on the amp are really just one connection, and you need to treat them as just one connection.
2. What does the voltage measure at the amplifier, when you turn up the volume. What is the voltage at the battery when you turn up the volume. If the voltage is dropping below 12 volts at the amplifier when you are playing high volume, that could also be shutting down the amp.
3. Be sure to check the amplifier's ground connection. You'll need a clean metal connection with the same gauge wire as the power wire from the battery. This can cause a voltage drop at the amp, and shut it down.
Can I use 2 pioneer tsw 1211d4
Which wring best parrel or series
Or pioneer 1 tsw 3003 d4 1 subwofer parrel or series which is best sub and setting I also purchased 9701 I am using 1 subwofer ts w 1211d4 but after use 2 hr...my sub..burn..so pls help me.. suggest
The Pioneer GM-D9701 is a very powerful amplifier. It can produce continuous power of 500 watts at 4 ohms, or 800 watts at 2 ohms, or 1,200 watts at 1 ohm. The way you wire your subwoofer to the amplifier will determine the amount of power the amplifier delivers to the subwoofer. I recommend to use the Pioneer TS-W3003D4. It has 2 voice coils. Each of the voice coils is 4 ohms. For best reliability, I recommend to wire just one 4 ohm voice coil to the amplifier. This will deliver 500 watts at 4 ohms. The subwoofer is designed to handle 600 watts of power continuous and this will be a very reliable setup. If you want to use both voice coils and show 2 ohms to the amplifier you will deliver 800 watts continuous to the woofer. If you do this you'll need to be careful with the volume and not destroy the subwoofer. The internal volume of the enclosure used for the speaker is critical to good performance. Please be sure to install the Pioneer TS-W3003D4 in a proper sized enclosure. 35.4 liters for a sealed enclosure or 42.5 liters for a ported enclosure as clearly shown in the manual for the Pioneer TS-W3003D4 seen here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/TS-W3003D4_InstructionManual092216.pdf You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Can I power this amplifier at home using security cametra's Power adapter of 12 V DC & 30 ampere ?
The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to operate in a vehicle delivering DC 14.4 volts. (10.8 to 15.1 volts allowable) Current consumption with 4 ohm load at continuous power is 38 Amps. I don't know anything about your security camera power adapter. You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
can i use this @1 ohm for 1200rms to power my 306c dvc (400rms) and 308d4 (400rms) down to 2ohms, parallel wired to go down further to 1 ohm.
they both will be 800rms so should i set the gain down or can i run it how i want?
or should i go for a 8701 instead? i haven't heard good reviews about the 8701 so wanted to for the 9701 to run it @1ohms 1200rms or @4ohms 500rms
If your goal is to build a reliable and great sounding system, then these amps and speakers are a great choice.
One ohm impedance is no trouble for these amplifiers. However, it may not be the best choice for your particular setup.
Lowering the impedance on the amp just because you can do it, doesn't make good sense. Just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should.
I recommend to choose the impedance that offers you the best sounding and most reliable performance for your chosen subwoofers. You want to find the best combination of great performance and great reliability.
The question is, how loud do you like to play your system on a regular basis? If you like reasonable listening levels, and occasionally hammer the bass the answer goes one direction. If you like to hammer the system all the time, the answer goes in a different direction.
In order to build a great sounding and reliable system, you have to make a plan so the subwoofers you have listed can handle the power output from the amp over long term usage.
If you want a reliable system, I recommend using the GM-D9701 at 4 ohms total circuit impedance with these subwoofers. If you choose to run them at one or two ohms, this amp has enough power to destroy the subs. You'll need to use the subwoofer output controls on the in-dash receiver very conservatively or you will destroy the subs.
If you use GM-D8701 in a reliable system, you can wire at 4 ohms or at 2 ohms total circuit impedance and get excellent and reliable performance from both the amp and subs.
Running the GM-D8701 at 1 ohm, will push the subs to their limits and if they begin to fail, they will start to push the amplifier to it's limits as well.
The Pioneer GM-D9701 and the Pioneer GM-DX971 seen here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-DX971 are designed to operate down to 1 ohm impedance.
The Pioneer GM-D8701 and the Pioneer GM-DX871 seen here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-DX871 are also designed to operate down to 1 ohm impedance.
The GM-D8701 is a great amp and has many great reviews. Here is one: ruclips.net/video/_BzOAOBc-yA/видео.html
Here is another review from GM-D9601, very similar in design to GM-D9701: ruclips.net/video/ujYIgE96gk8/видео.html
You can learn more about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html
You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
@@pioneerelectronics thank you for the response, how do i wire my *2* 4 ohm dvcs to 2ohms? considering I'll be using them both, they'll either go down to 1 ohms or 4 ohms while using a mono block
@@pioneerelectronics personally i like to hammer the subs, like them pushed to their limit but not for more than 10mins (maxed). after that i play them normally @75% music volume (still higher for most people ). i would love to have a reliable yet powerful system. so for that should i go for the 8701 and play them @1ohm with 800rms and set the gain so my subs aren't damaged? or should i go for the 9701 running @4ohms 500rms with gains for more power? what would be best for reliability with power? i fully understand what these subs and amplifier are capable of, just couldn't figure out what would be best (in terms of a perfect match)
@@themountain6437 You like to hammer the subs. OK great. To make a reliable system, you'll need to be more conservative about your power output and setup or you'll need to replace speakers before you want to.
I recommend to use the GM-D9701 at 4 ohms. Pushing 500 continuous watts at high output for these subs is pushing them to their absolute limit + about 20%
The amplifier's gain control is not meant to be a volume control for the amp.
The amplifier's gain control is used to balance the output signal from the in-dash receiver with the input on the subwoofer amplifier. Too much gain will cause distortion, or noise in the subwoofer's output. This can damage or destroy the subwoofer. Not enough gain, and the subwoofer output will be too low and not deliver the performance you want. You use the gain control to find the balance.
The way to get sharp and clear audio is to deliver a clean signal, not a distorted signal, to the amplifier.
There is more to this story. It's a longer answer, but you may find some useful ideas for setting up your system.
If you are using a hammer and you hit your thumb, don't blame the hammer. The goal is to create an audio system with little or no distortion. If the in-dash receiver's RCA outputs clip they create a distorted audio signal. That distorted audio signal is then in turn amplified by the subwoofer amp or other amplifiers in the system.
In a well designed and set up audio system, you should be able to turn up the master volume to, or near it's maximum, and not hear any distortion from the speakers in the system. If you have all of these settings (for example: EQ, speaker levels, crossover levels, bass boost etc...) set to zero or lower you should be able to turn the volume up to it's max, and the RCA outputs of the in-dash receiver should not clip and create distortion that will in turn be amplified by your system.
If you add in a boosted signal on the in-dash receiver from any of the audio controls (for example: EQ, speaker levels, crossover levels, bass boost etc...) this may cause the in-dash receiver's RCA outputs to clip and create distortion at high output levels.
So... Here is an example. This is hypothetical, please don't take the numbers literally and try to translate them to any given in-dash receiver. In this best case scenario I have excellent amplifiers and well matched speakers. My in-dash receiver master volume control has a maximum volume level number of 50. I have all of the audio settings set to zero, and I can turn up the master volume to 50 and the RCA outputs do not clip.
I set the gains on the amplifiers so that there is no distortion. That's what I want.
Now, I add in a subwoofer level control adjustment of +5. When I turn up the master volume I can get to only volume level 45 before I begin to hear distortion coming from my speakers. If I add in an EQ adjustment on the 80Hz frequency band of +4, my master volume begins to distort now at volume level 41. Remember I started at volume level 50 with no distortion.
Please note this is just a hypothetical example. In this example, the in-dash receiver is causing the distortion and sending that distorted signal to the amplifiers. The amps and speakers are simply doing the job they were designed to do. What's the solution? Use the audio controls to your best advantage. If you set them to zero or lower, your in-dash receiver shouldn't be creating noise. Set the gain controls on your amplifiers so you don't hear any distortion at high volume levels. If you want to add in a +1 or +2, that's OK as long as you realize you may be getting distortion at the highest volume levels. You need to find the settings that works best for you. If you are trying to balance your system so all of the speakers are at or near the same volume level, consider lowering the volume level of some speakers rather than raising the volume level of one individual speaker. If you are using Bluetooth Audio as your main music source, consider lowering the volume level on the Phone. It's possible, the phone is overloading the input through Bluetooth Audio, and the distortion is beginning right there. If you set the volume level on the phone lower, you may be able to turn up the master volume level on the in-dash receiver with less distortion. If you want more volume, you might want to consider a more powerful amplifier and speakers.
@@themountain6437 You're right. 2 ohms won't work. I misunderstood the setup.
This ampli can driived the 2focal sub 400rms each at 1ohms thanks
The Pioneer GM-D9701 will deliver 1,200 watts RMS at 1 ohm. This may be too much power for your subs. To help avoid damage to the speakers, you may consider wiring the woofers at 4ohms. This lower the output from the Pioneer GM-D9701 to approximately 500 watts RMS. You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/-Uq25Goo0sU/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Can I used thise monoblock to 2 pioneer 3003d4 2000wt woofers set to 1ohm load to one channel
The Pioneer GM-D9701 works great at 1 ohm producing 1,200 watts. This is enough power to damage or destroy the two Pioneer TS-W3003D4 when wired to show the amplifier 1 ohm. I recommend a couple different possible solutions. One possible solution is If you want to use a Pioneer GM-D9701, wire the woofers at 4 ohms. They will still hit hard. This will lower the amount of power produced by the amplifier and will help to protect the speakers making them more reliable over time. The other possible solution is to use a Pioneer GM-D8701 amplifier. You can see it here: ruclips.net/video/-Uq25Goo0sU/видео.html This amplifier also works great at 1 ohm and will produce 800 watts. This is much more in line with the power handling of the Pioneer TS-W3003D4 woofers. Be careful with your gain control on the amplifier and they should work well. You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here:
Hi will this amp be good to power a DVC 1000watt RMS subwoofer in to 1ohm
Thanks
Yes it will be great. The Pioneer GM-D9701 has 1200 watts RMS output at 1 ohm. You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Will this amplifier push 3 Power Acoustik Gothic GW3-12 1200W dual 2 ohm voice coils
That really depends upon what YOU mean when you say "push" in your question above. The Pioneer GM-D9701 will operate reliably at 1 Ohm. If you wire the 3 woofers so they show the amplifier a combined 1 ohm load, the GM-D9701 will deliver 1000 watts RMS all day long. For many people, this would be considered "pushing" the subs and depending upon the vehicle this will likely really hammer.
I don't recommend to wire your 3 woofers below 1 ohm and expect this amplifier to perform at 1000 watts. Below 1 ohm the amp may go into protection mode and shut down, or it may play at a significantly lower performance level, depending upon the load shown to the amp.
If you really want to "push" these 3 woofers, I recommend to get 3 separate Pioneer GM-D9701 amps. Wire each of your dual voice coil woofers so it will show the amplifier a 1 ohm load, and use 1 amp per woofer. That will deliver 1000 watts to each individual woofer. When you're in that vehicle, you'll know those woofers are there. You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
@@deckerdotto6035 ya putting 3 in a sealed box in a grand caravan I don't need mind blowing bass just like to feel my music lol what other options for a amplifier would be better buying 3 of them amplifiers would be over $400 got to be a single amplifier out there that can do the job lol
Thank you for clarifying what you mean by "push" those woofers. I understand better now. The Pioneer GM-D9701 will work great in that application, and in that vehicle. You'll be able to feel your music. No question about it. Have Fun!
Why are there 2 speaker outputs if this was a mono amp?
Each of the speaker outputs is a mono output. You can find more videos about Pioneer Amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
It is a mono block alot of companies do this so if speakers are in separate chambers they are still in series so you get the 2 ohm or 1 ohm load your after if subs are dvc
Kindly let me know the amperage that will run this amp perfectly when using a power supply.
I recommend 14.4 volts. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to operate between. 10.8 and 15.1 volts. You can find the owner's manual for the Pioneer GM-D9701 here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/GM-D8701_DX871_D9701_DX971_OwnersManual031319.pdf You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
My question was not about Voltage but CURRENT consumption with 1 Ohm load at continuous power (the amperes that the amp requires at 1 Ohm load to function optimally.
Under a heavy continuous load and operating at 1 ohm impedance, you can expect the amplifier to draw nearly 120 amps of current at 14 volts. For most reliable operation, I recommend a power supply capable of delivering 125 amps of current.
@@deckerdotto6035 Thanks
Seems to be a bad azz amp!
You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Will this be enough for 2x12 kicker compC 4ohm? 300 rms?
"Will this be enough" is a very personal opinion. What is "enough" for one person is not "enough" for another. And I don't know what vehicle you have.
For me, this will be "enough" and then some. The Pioneer GM-D9701 has tons of power for your setup and your kicker subs will absolutely slam in many different vehicles. You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
It would work great for those subwoofers.
What is the difference between Pioneer 9701 & 9601 class d mono amps ?
The Pioneer GM-D9701 is an updated design utilizing higher quality audio components. The signal input stage updated. Power output is the same as previous model. You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Can I run 3 12s pioneer with this amp?
Yes, you can, however, how you wire the speakers to the amp is very important for reliable operation of both the speakers and the amplifier. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to operate reliably with an impedance load between 8 and 1 ohms. If you have 3 subwoofers, you'll need to wire them so they show the amplifier an impedance load higher than 1 ohm. You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Which is better the 9601 or the 9701 thanks
The Pioneer GM-D9701 is the newer model with the latest design. If you are interested in better sound quality and power, please check out Pioneer GM-DX971. The Pioneer GM-DX971 uses Pioneer designed and manufactured high quality acoustic elements within the audio signal chain of the amplifier. For example: Pioneer brand Audio Capacitors for higher audio quality and additional stability in the power supply. The use of these Pioneer brand audio components for power, headroom, and reliability is the difference. The top panel is milled from aluminum for excellent heat dispersion, lower magnetic properties, and show grade cosmetics. That and the gold plated RCA's. GM-D9701 is an excellent amplifier but does not have these features. You can learn more here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-DX971 You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
About gain where the correct setting thanks
There is no 1 correct setting for the gain on Pioneer GM-D9701. It depends upon many factors including what in-dash receiver you are using and what speakers you have connected to the amplifier. Please watch this with the sound on: ruclips.net/video/6h3b_c3Yxnk/видео.html If you don't know the output voltage of your receiver, start at the "Normal" position and slowly adjust toward the "H" position until you hear no distortion coming from the attached speakers.
If you are using a hammer and you hit your thumb, don't blame the hammer. The goal is to create an audio system with little or no distortion. If the in-dash receiver's RCA outputs clip they create a distorted audio signal. That distorted audio signal is then in turn amplified by the subwoofer amp or other amplifiers in the system. In a well designed and set up audio system, you should be able to turn up the master volume to, or near it's maximum, and not hear any distortion from the speakers in the system. If you have all of these settings (for example: EQ, speaker levels, crossover levels, bass boost etc...) set to zero or lower you should be able to turn the volume up to it's max, and the RCA outputs of the in-dash receiver should not clip and create distortion that will in turn be amplified by your system. If you add in a boosted signal on the in-dash receiver from any of the audio controls (for example: EQ, speaker levels, crossover levels, bass boost etc...) this may cause the in-dash receiver's RCA outputs to clip and create distortion at high output levels. So... Here is an example. This is hypothetical, please don't take the numbers literally and try to translate them to any given in-dash receiver. In this best case scenario I have excellent amplifiers and well matched speakers. My in-dash receiver master volume control has a maximum volume level number of 50. I have all of the audio settings set to zero, and I can turn up the master volume to 50 and the RCA outputs do not clip. I set the gains on the amplifiers so that there is no distortion. That's what I want. Now, I add in a subwoofer level control adjustment of +5. When I turn up the master volume I can get to only volume level 45 before I begin to hear distortion coming from my speakers. If I add in an EQ adjustment on the 80Hz frequency band of +4, my master volume begins to distort now at volume level 41. Remember I started at volume level 50 with no distortion. Please note this is just a hypothetical example. In this example, the in-dash receiver is causing the distortion and sending that distorted signal to the amplifiers. The amps and speakers are simply doing the job they were designed to do. What's the solution? Use the audio controls to your best advantage. If you set them to zero or lower, your in-dash receiver shouldn't be creating noise. Set the gain controls on your amplifiers so you don't hear any distortion at high volume levels. If you want to add in a +1 or +2, that's OK as long as you realize you may be getting distortion at the highest volume levels. You need to find the settings that works best for you. If you are trying to balance your system so all of the speakers are at or near the same volume level, consider lowering the volume level of some speakers rather than raising the volume level of one individual speaker. If you are using Bluetooth Audio as your main music source, consider lowering the volume level on the Phone. It's possible, the phone is overloading the input through Bluetooth Audio, and the distortion is beginning right there. If you set the volume level on the phone lower, you may be able to turn up the master volume level on the in-dash receiver with less distortion. If you want more volume, you might want to consider a more powerful amplifier and speakers. You can find more videos about Pioneer NEX in-dash receiver's here: ruclips.net/video/PeH_h8UHzBw/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
@@deckerdotto6035 The GM-DX971 isn't available in India. What's the approximate price difference and is it worth it for spl setup?
The Pioneer GM-D9701 is a great amp. Tons of power and extremely reliable. The GM-DX971 is better. It uses higher grade Pioneer manufactured audio capacitors for greater headroom in the system. For an SPL setup I would go with GM-DX971 for it's peak output capability. The GM-DX971 is around $100 more. It's worth the extra money to me.
is this amp good for 2x12 alpine type r 2 ohm?
Yes, it'll be great if you wire the woofers the right way. Please read my answer. The Pioneer GM-D9701 will put out 1,200 watts RMS at 1 ohm. If you wire your subs together and show the amplifier 1 ohm, you'll have a ton of power available. This may be too much power and you could damage or destroy the subs, if you tend to listen at very high levels and depending upon your source and gain settings. Your subs are rated at 750 watts RMS. If you wire the woofers to the amplifier at 2 ohms the amp will put out 800 watts RMS and that's a very good fit. Again, be careful with the gain control on the amplifier and if you hear distortion back off before you destroy the speakers. For better sound quality and performance please also consider the Pioneer GM-DX971. The GM-DX971 is the higher end version of the GM-D9701. The GM-DX971 has Pioneer manufactured audio capacitors for a cleaner signal path and better headroom and transient response. 9701 is a great amp. GM-DX971 is even better. You can learn more here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-DX971 If you want to run the woofers at 1 ohm, I recommend using the Pioneer GM-D8701 amp. You can see it here: ruclips.net/video/-Uq25Goo0sU/видео.html You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Hi sir
Is this AMP is good for TS-W3003D4 600RMS Sub at 4 Ohms? 🤔 Plz help!
The Pioneer GM-D9701 will produce about 500 watts RMS at a 4 ohm load. That will work great for Pioneer TS-W3003D4. It will be powerful and reliable. And well within the power range of the subwoofer. The TS-W3003D4 is a dual voice coil subwoofer, and if you wire it at 2 ohms, the GM-D9701 will produce about 800 watts RMS. This is higher than the rating for the subwoofer, however, if you carefully set the amplifier's gain control, and are careful with the volume on daily use, this will also work great. You can learn more about Pioneer Amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/-Uq25Goo0sU/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
@@deckerdotto6035 thanks 😊 🤗
@@deckerdotto6035 sir what about wiring specs? I mean what gauge of wiring should I use?
For the Pioneer GM-D9701, I recommend to use 6 or 4 gauge wire depending upon the length of run from the vehicle's battery to the amplifier. 6 gauge for 4 feet to 11 feet and, 4 gauge for up to 20 feet. Please be sure to place a 150 amp fuse on the power wire within 12 inches of the vehicle's battery. And to use the power cable and ground cable of the same gauge. I recommend 8 or 10 gauge wire for the speaker connection. Enclosure internal volume is critical for best performance from the subwoofer. The recommended enclosure for the Pioneer TS-W3003D4 is internal volume of 1.25 cubic feet or 35.4 liters. You can see it here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/TS-W3003D4_InstructionManual092216.pdf You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
@deckerd otto this is what I have the GM-D9701 with the ts w3003d4 at 2ohm with the gain set to 34.6volts which if I'm correct is 600w rms. I also have the TS D12d4 speaker which is the exact same wattage power. Which speaker would you recommend to power with the amp?? I have not found anyone who can answer and I haven't gotten round to testing it myself yet.
Hi, i am using this amp to run the 2 JBL stadium 1224, at 1 ohm load and total 1000watt rms. But when i raise the volume above than 20 from my after market stereo, this amp start tripping, whats the issue.
Note that i did BIG3 upgrade in my car electricity wiring. What i have to do further? Guide please ???
I strongly recommend power and ground wire to the amplifier of the same gauge. A lack of voltage delivered to the amplifier will cause it to shut down under a heavier operation. Please be sure to check the connections are not loose, particularly the ground to the vehicle. This is often overlooked and a source of trouble. If the wiring is all inspected and good, I suspect, the JBL's are showing the amplifier a combined load far below 1 ohm under dynamic operation. They may be rated at 2 ohms, but when playing music they are dipping far below 2. I recommend to experiment a little. 1st. This is very important to create a base line to experiment. On your receiver, set all of the bass boost, and EQ settings to zero All of the boost settings, set them to zero. And the bass boost on the amplifier set it to zero. This is your bass line. Don't change it for now. 2nd switch the JBL's to 4 ohm operation. Wire one JBL at 4 ohms to each of the speaker outputs on the Pioneer GM-D9701. This will deliver more power from the amplifier than the RMS rating of the JBL's. 3rd. roll the amplifier's gain control back. Start at the 12 o'clock position. Next, simply use your system for a few days to check If this works more reliably. If this works more reliably, slowly begin to use the bass boost control on the amplifier to add more bottom. If it's still reliable, slowly add in EQ settings. I don't recommend using the 2 ohm setting on the JBL's. The Pioneer GM-D9701 amplifier is very capable of playing at 1 ohm and delivering 1200 watts RMS. That's enough to smoke these speakers, so be careful. You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
@@deckerdotto6035 Hi sir, i have two subs of JBL 1224, and i tried individual 2 ohm and 4 ohm both. At 2 ohm my amp is still tripping on high volume, and at 4 ohm even on 30-35 level of volume, subs looks underpowered. Kindly note that i have set the gain to 11oclock and frequency to 125. And the bass boost remote to 0, and my stereo equliser is treble 0, Bass -1.
Thats the settings i have. And about power, i use 4 guage wire for battery and ground wire(same wire).
I even did the BIG3 upgrade in my car electric system, to manage the perfect ground but no change still its dropping the voltages on high volume and dropping less than 11 volts, so thats the reason my amp is tripping on high volume. I have tried everything sir.
@@deckerdotto6035 And sir JBL stadium 1224 id 500watt rms each so total is 1000 watt at 1 ohm, pairing in parallel. I even checked the impedence output of subs its 1 ohm exact. When i tried both subs invidually to amp at 2 ohm the result was same(amp tripping). And when i tried both subs individually to amp at 4 ohm subs drives underpowered. So i have paired them in parallel taking 1 ohm impedence at output and the final rms power is 1000watt rms, i set gain at 11oclock and frequency at 125 and subs are bumping very fine but till i put volume from my stereo to 20 level. Above 20 amp starts tripping.
Thank you for your reply. You noted above, the voltage is dropping below 11 volts and the amplifier is shutting off. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to operate between 10.8 volts and 15.1 volts. I recommend voltage of around 14.4 when the vehicle is running. When the voltage drops below 10.8 volts the amplifier will shut down. This is normal operation for the amplifier. If the vehicle is running and can't deliver the proper voltage to the amplifier don't blame the amplifier. You kindly mentioned several times you did some variety of "BIG3" upgrade. It's possible this was upgrade not done correctly. Or you'll need an upgraded alternator to support the voltage draw.
@@deckerdotto6035 the BIG3 wiring upgrade is that i attach the +ve terminal of alternator with +ve of battery with 0guage wire,and -ve terminal of battery with the chasis with o guage and engine ground point to the chasis also with 0 guage, this upgrade can stablize the voltages and make the ground perfect as per my knowledge, and i done it quiet well as i checked everything even after installations. And yup sir you are right, i am thinking to do upgrades in alternator of the vehicle, can you guide about the alternator specs which suits my situation as you know all about.
What is the difference in the 971 opposed to the 9701 OTHER than gold plated RCA hook ups?
ANYONE KNOW???
The Pioneer GM-DX9701 uses Pioneer designed and manufactured high quality acoustic elements within the audio signal chain of the amplifier. For example: Pioneer brand Audio Capacitors for higher audio quality and additional stability in the power supply. The use of these Pioneer brand audio components for power, headroom, and reliability is the difference. The top panel is milled from aluminum for excellent heat dispersion, lower magnetic properties, and show grade cosmetics. That and the gold plated RCA's. GM-D9701 is an excellent amplifier but does not have these features. You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
No manual and waranty registration card?
The owner's manual and warranty card are clearly shown in the video here: ruclips.net/video/6h3b_c3Yxnk/видео.html If you did not receiver these items when you bought your amplifier you should contact the store where you purchased the product and ask for these items. You can find the owner's manual for Pioneer GM-D9701 here: www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D9701#manuals You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Is this SPL setup amp ?
That's a tough question to answer. It depends upon what you think an SPL amplifier is. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is a mono subwoofer amplifier. It can deliver 1,200 watts RMS at 1 ohm. That's a very powerful amplifier, though certainly not the most powerful you can find. Pioneer amplifiers are designed to be excellent sound quality amplifiers and still have great power. You can find more videos about Pioneer amplifiers here: ruclips.net/video/99Hfmc8QxVc/видео.html and you can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
The only problem I have is the fact that it doesn't turn off just drains your battery dont know why it was built that way because everything else is damn near perfect
This is not normal operation. Please read this answer. It's very likely you have the amp wired incorrectly. The Pioneer GM-D9701 is designed to Switch Off when the vehicle's in-dash receiver is Switched Off or, when the vehicle is off. If the GM-D9701 remains switched on when the vehicle is off and the key removed, door open, there is a strong possibility the amplifier is wired incorrectly. Please look at the System Control Terminal seen here: ruclips.net/video/6h3b_c3Yxnk/видео.html DO NOT wire a jumper from the + terminal to the System Control Terminal. This will cause the amplifier to stay on even when the vehicle is off and this will kill the vehicle's battery. The System control should be wired to the back of your in-dash receiver and connected to the Blue Wire with White Stripe. You can learn more about the System Control wire Blue/White here: ruclips.net/video/kR2MO2kwFug/видео.html If your in-dash receiver is staying on when the vehicle is powered off, there is a different issue. You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
How can I power this amp at home to use it as a home theater ?
You'll need a 12 volt power supply with enough amperage to operate the amplifier. Many are available. Here is one possibility: www.cascadeaudio.com/power_converters/power_converters.htm You can find more videos on Pioneer's You Tube Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
Only if they would sell this at Best Buy.
You can find more videos on Pioneer's RUclips Channel here: ruclips.net/user/pioneerelectronics
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