The internet is undoubtedly a better place because Cooley is providing such high quality content. CNET, you better hold on to this guy like he is your golden goose.
Hi Ryan, I know you want a Cooley response, but regenerative braking is so different from Frictional braking that you will not get a short video. First, regenerative braking only occurs with an electric motor. Second, it only occurs when the motor is spinning faster than the speed associated with that Eletromotive Force (EMF), so it will never come to a complete stop. In other words, regenerative braking will always need another form of braking to help stop the vehicle. That is why electric vehicles still have frictional braking systems. Third, regenerative braking will never be able to convert all of the potential energy available to it back into stored energy, but some conversion is better than no conversion. Which is the case for frictional braking systems that can only change potential energy into heat and dust. I hope this helps.
But yeah, as someone else said, the video is pretty good tho I need no explanations as to why my Juke RS brakes last 2 years less than my dad's Altima brakes... I drive like a pric.. i drive spiritedly. :)
I have a 2007 Toyota Yaris with manual trans. The car is very light and I’m easy on the brakes. It has 120k miles and I still have original brake pads.
Great job explaining how and why to check brake pads and rotors. For me, I check the pads, on all wheels, when I do a tire rotation. This way, if the numbers are drastically different on the same axle, I know something is wrong. I like the tool you used to measure the rotor thickness. (Got to get me one of those) I use a brake lining thickness Pad tool which is much easier, faster and precise. It's color coded: green, yellow and red and measures from 12mm to 2mm.
What about a maintenance-style brake job where they remove, clean, and lubricate calipers? Some mechanics recommended this - but it isn’t part of my VW maintenance schedule.
Aside from all the potential bedroom innuendos, this was actually very informative. OK, I'm listening along and containing myself because I respect the guy. And then Cooley uses (his? or blank) CNET business card and I just burst out laughing! Boss move!
Very informative video! From the research I've done, rotor "warping" is largely a myth. Brake vibrations typically come from rust between the rotor and the hub or uneven pad material on the rotors
Small amounts of rust are typically scraped right off after even a miniscule amount of braking. Uneven deposits can create the feeling of warped rotors but warped rotors are still very much a thing; I've changed mine for it and you can see the warping if you spin the rotor by hand with all the parts attached
Hi, Nope rotor warping is not a myth. It may be less common with modern brake rotors, but it can still occur. You should google Brake Lathe. If you have warped rotors a brake lathe may be able to machine that warped surface out. If not, then just replace the rotors--new rotors come with a lathed surface. But never put on new brake pads without at least turning your old rotors with a brake lathe. The imperfections left by the old pads will continue with the new ones if you just slap them on, and at best you will have to replace the set--wasting the new pads. If you plan on working on your own brakes I recommend taking an automotive class at your community college, because brakes are not something you want to make a mistake on.
@@blake031299 Hi, I am not saying that you can't do them, but just make sure you do them right. Because if you don't you will either be wasting time and money, or you will have brakes that fail. If you can't turn your own rotors then just buy new ones with your new pads as a set. That should solve it.
@@jonathanjohnson8376 I usually order from RockAuto and tbh, new brakes and rotors are so cheap even for good ones, that turning really isn't worth it anymore. I got a set of bosch brakes for 20 bucks
You can also do the pad proxy measurement using a pack of playing cards. Push the cards into the gap and measure the stack that passes to the pad. Also, I think your RUclips team needs a spell-check check...
Every system in important in a car and being able to stop is critical. Unfortunately brakes sometimes get overlooked until condition of the parts are really obvious.
I have 2016 Audi S3, bought it back in 2017 with just 5,000 miles and now the car has 63,000 miles. Never changed any rotors or pads and I drive it like a maniac, the dealer just told me last weekend that I'm gonna need to change them on my next service 8,000- 10,000 miles from now because my pads are down to 4mm right now, you can slightly feel the lines on the rotors as well. I think I'm just gonna go ahead and change them in about 10 days.
The inside pad on either front, in most cases is worn the most. So the inside pad is really what should be checked. Let’s say the front outside pads are worn down to 2.5 mm. Your inside pads could be close to a sheet of paper thin. Yet, you look at the outside pads and think you are OK for a while. Then all of a sudden you start hearing that famous grinding sound. You’re like….. what the hell? I just checked them. Not in every case, but many times this can be the case. Cheers.
Can you measure the pads from the other side? (The side that faces the mudflaps in this case) There's always an opening on there where you have a clear access to the pad.
2:00 brake rotors do not warp, it's a common myth. Any vibration felt is due to uneven deposits left from the pads on the rotors but it is physically impossible to expose brake discs to the elements neccessary to warp them under even the most extreme type of driving.
The car should be placed on the jack-stand while work is performed, not the jack. If force enough to move the car is applied, the vehicle may move out of position for the jack-stand and damage or injury may result.
I had to downvote this video, and while there was some good information, some wasn't so good in my opinion: yes, you should check both wheels on the axle (for just the reason he mentioned; uneven wear), you don't need the thickness caliper he used for pad thickness (I believe just about all pads have the 'grooves' for thickness checking, pulsating brakes can just be from 'glazing' on the rotor and/or brake pads (if you do a few fairly aggressive stops this can generally grind off the glazing and the pulsation sometimes can be eliminated. There might have been a couple more things I didn't agree on but didn't want to have to watch the video again. Again, generally okay, but some lousy direction as well. JMO
Can listen to Cooley talk about pretty much anything. Sounds like I'm talking to my old man and having a beer.
The internet is undoubtedly a better place because Cooley is providing such high quality content. CNET, you better hold on to this guy like he is your golden goose.
Spell check is not proofreading
Cooley has been explaining the what and why he does things so clearly and right to the point. I appreciate his presentation skills!
Brake*
This video came just in time.. my car may need a brake job soon
Same!
Cooley, can you do a short video going over regenerative braking systems and how those greatly differ from traditional brakes?
I second that notion lol.
Hi Ryan, I know you want a Cooley response, but regenerative braking is so different from Frictional braking that you will not get a short video. First, regenerative braking only occurs with an electric motor. Second, it only occurs when the motor is spinning faster than the speed associated with that Eletromotive Force (EMF), so it will never come to a complete stop. In other words, regenerative braking will always need another form of braking to help stop the vehicle. That is why electric vehicles still have frictional braking systems. Third, regenerative braking will never be able to convert all of the potential energy available to it back into stored energy, but some conversion is better than no conversion. Which is the case for frictional braking systems that can only change potential energy into heat and dust. I hope this helps.
Living legend is Brian Cooley I think it's about time for a car review or even episodes of on cars to return.
Pads also have metal flakes in them towards the end to make a screeching sound when they're almost toast.
He’s aged fairly well. A fan since the early cnet days.
"Brake" job. Change the title please.
But yeah, as someone else said, the video is pretty good tho
I need no explanations as to why my Juke RS brakes last 2 years less than my dad's Altima brakes... I drive like a pric.. i drive spiritedly. :)
@@EMdemo wtf is a juke
@@_-_-936 a nissan
Figure out the proper break/brake first
Seriously. 🤦🏼♂️
Instead of the title i will judge the content of the video... As a fellow car mechanic i can say its pretty ok :)
Let's just hope Brian isn't the one who wrote the title. lol
I have a 2007 Toyota Yaris with manual trans. The car is very light and I’m easy on the brakes. It has 120k miles and I still have original brake pads.
my man Cooley!!! need more videos from him!!!
Great job explaining how and why to check brake pads and rotors. For me, I check the pads, on all wheels, when I do a tire rotation. This way, if the numbers are drastically different on the same axle, I know something is wrong. I like the tool you used to measure the rotor thickness. (Got to get me one of those) I use a brake lining thickness Pad tool which is much easier, faster and precise. It's color coded: green, yellow and red and measures from 12mm to 2mm.
What about a maintenance-style brake job where they remove, clean, and lubricate calipers?
Some mechanics recommended this - but it isn’t part of my VW maintenance schedule.
Cooley is our cool no nonsense uncle that's always dropping jewels and showing us the way.
Aside from all the potential bedroom innuendos, this was actually very informative. OK, I'm listening along and containing myself because I respect the guy. And then Cooley uses (his? or blank) CNET business card and I just burst out laughing! Boss move!
Very informative video! From the research I've done, rotor "warping" is largely a myth. Brake vibrations typically come from rust between the rotor and the hub or uneven pad material on the rotors
Small amounts of rust are typically scraped right off after even a miniscule amount of braking. Uneven deposits can create the feeling of warped rotors but warped rotors are still very much a thing; I've changed mine for it and you can see the warping if you spin the rotor by hand with all the parts attached
Hi, Nope rotor warping is not a myth. It may be less common with modern brake rotors, but it can still occur. You should google Brake Lathe. If you have warped rotors a brake lathe may be able to machine that warped surface out. If not, then just replace the rotors--new rotors come with a lathed surface. But never put on new brake pads without at least turning your old rotors with a brake lathe. The imperfections left by the old pads will continue with the new ones if you just slap them on, and at best you will have to replace the set--wasting the new pads. If you plan on working on your own brakes I recommend taking an automotive class at your community college, because brakes are not something you want to make a mistake on.
@@jonathanjohnson8376 they were really easy to do on mine. If you have regular disk brakes and you don't need caliper work, its pretty easy
@@blake031299 Hi, I am not saying that you can't do them, but just make sure you do them right. Because if you don't you will either be wasting time and money, or you will have brakes that fail. If you can't turn your own rotors then just buy new ones with your new pads as a set. That should solve it.
@@jonathanjohnson8376 I usually order from RockAuto and tbh, new brakes and rotors are so cheap even for good ones, that turning really isn't worth it anymore. I got a set of bosch brakes for 20 bucks
You can also do the pad proxy measurement using a pack of playing cards. Push the cards into the gap and measure the stack that passes to the pad.
Also, I think your RUclips team needs a spell-check check...
Every system in important in a car and being able to stop is critical. Unfortunately brakes sometimes get overlooked until condition of the parts are really obvious.
Could you also do for rear drum brakes?
Good to see u back often cooley
I have 2016 Audi S3, bought it back in 2017 with just 5,000 miles and now the car has 63,000 miles. Never changed any rotors or pads and I drive it like a maniac, the dealer just told me last weekend that I'm gonna need to change them on my next service 8,000- 10,000 miles from now because my pads are down to 4mm right now, you can slightly feel the lines on the rotors as well. I think I'm just gonna go ahead and change them in about 10 days.
The inside pad on either front, in most cases is worn the most. So the inside pad is really what should be checked. Let’s say the front outside pads are worn down to 2.5 mm. Your inside pads could be close to a sheet of paper thin. Yet, you look at the outside pads and think you are OK for a while. Then all of a sudden you start hearing that famous grinding sound. You’re like….. what the hell? I just checked them. Not in every case, but many times this can be the case. Cheers.
Glad you fixed the typo. *brake, not break. :)
Wow are those the original struts I didn’t think KYB gas adjust was on The old Crowne Vickys
Thank you for sharing this awesome tip, you simply the best 😃
brakes are easy to replace yourself, all you really need is a jack stand for extra safety, save $$$
Can you measure the pads from the other side? (The side that faces the mudflaps in this case) There's always an opening on there where you have a clear access to the pad.
Coolie! Cmon man. It’s a BRAKE not break.
Good video!
2:00 brake rotors do not warp, it's a common myth. Any vibration felt is due to uneven deposits left from the pads on the rotors but it is physically impossible to expose brake discs to the elements neccessary to warp them under even the most extreme type of driving.
I hit 👍 before the video begins
Great video!
Lord Cooley has spoken
Also remember to let brake rotors cool down before touching them!
I like that silver Ford...
The car should be placed on the jack-stand while work is performed, not the jack. If force enough to move the car is applied, the vehicle may move out of position for the jack-stand and damage or injury may result.
Cooley the best👌
I’m disappointed they spelled brake wrong in the title of this video. In an instructional video I would hope they could get that right.
Their is so much at steak hear regarding this guise grammar skills and credibility
Ah yes, I think I had a minor stroke while reading this haha!
Cooley, it’s like you went with me vo-tech ball joints?
Isn't break spelled wrong? Shouldn't it be brake???🤔
So just like replacing tooth brushes every 3 moths does this mean we should replace our brakes every now and then?
i’m broken and i can’t stop
Cooooooolllllleeeeeeeyyyyyy, hell yeah
I brake for Cooley
Best Automotive Journalist in all of RUclips.
Autocorrect
Break = for a rest or Brake = to stop moving ? Somthing fishy in the title..
Funny
I had to downvote this video, and while there was some good information, some wasn't so good in my opinion: yes, you should check both wheels on the axle (for just the reason he mentioned; uneven wear), you don't need the thickness caliper he used for pad thickness (I believe just about all pads have the 'grooves' for thickness checking, pulsating brakes can just be from 'glazing' on the rotor and/or brake pads (if you do a few fairly aggressive stops this can generally grind off the glazing and the pulsation sometimes can be eliminated. There might have been a couple more things I didn't agree on but didn't want to have to watch the video again. Again, generally okay, but some lousy direction as well. JMO
Break job? I hope not
AKEBONO
Break job lmao
Break job lol, poor intern about to get fired
BRAKES NOT BREAKS!!!!!!!
Part 2 video: How to change the brakes yourself. Nah, that's what professionals are for.
First
Brake*