Everyone should know it. My CHP-MTC course definitely made me a better driver too, I recommend to everyone to take an MSF course even if they'll never get on a bike.
In an old VW repair book, the author called braking “negative acceleration”, and said to brake only when necessary. He felt that it would help keep your VW, or any vehicle alive.
This is probably the most extensive list of things I'm going to ignore. I love the way it was presented. The older I get and the more expensive fuel gets the less of this I will ignore.
I've doing it recently with my VW 1.9 TDI PD claiming 50mgp UK i always get around 55 fully loaded. Not driving like a grandma. Best I did 760 miles on 55L of fuel or 62mpg
One fun thing I did was track my MPG. I used the Fuelly app. On my old Escape I got exactly the EPA combined rating of 23mpg. I think that was good as I mostly drove short distances in the suburbs. Now I have a hybrid Fusion and I love it. Still use Fuelly but can't get the EPA 41mpg. I average 39.5
That was an excellent summation of what is necessary to increase mpg. In terms of highway speed, I am virtually the only one on 4 lane highways in my area doing the posted speed limit of 100 kmh/62mph. By doing so I regularly exceed the official mpg numbers for my car. It is sad to say but when it comes right down to it, most people (and most State or Provincial governments) really don't care about driving efficiently. Today's posted speed limits and policed speed limits are 20-30% higher than the optimal speed limits that prevailed when your old truck was built.
Cooley, you forgot to say how much shouting "get off my lawn you damn kids!" would save me. I'm an EV driver living in hydroelectricity service area... I forgot what a pain this all is. That said, I'm saving for a used MX-5 or 944.
I was waiting for him to put all these tips and tricks to use on the truck he was driving and give us a real would example of what he could achieve for gas mileage.
10:08 Tire width and total diameter are different - increasing width will decrease fuel economy due to increased friction, increasing diameter may or may not improve fuel economy depending on a couple factors including how much of the tire face is exposed to impart drag but it *will* change your effective gear ratio, meaning you can hit a given speed at a lower RPM and assuming you have enough excess torque to maintain said lower RPM without increasing fueling your economy will slightly improve.
Cooley! Cooley! Cooley! Hey Brian. Man i did a Hard Break with my left arm and hand out and down to say that I'm stopping here for my favorite show, and Car aficionado! Vroom!
Everything I've been doin for the past 20 years or more. The only time I've ever gotten the EPA mileage was driving in single digit, Fahrenheit, snowy weather. Usually able to the EPA rating by a significant margin.
I drive a 2010 Honda Fit. I accelerate pretty aggressively and go 75 on a 65 road. However, I always coast a while before braking. I've been getting 34.2 mpg avg for the last 9000 miles of combined driving. Honda rates the car at 30 mpg combined so I'm just laughing. I installed new Denso spark plugs as one of them was coming loose. I use Techron engine cleaner and maintain proper tire inflation.
Use your paddle shifters to slow down . Need to keep the rpms above 1200 i think it was. Keeps the car in dfco mode and saves more gas. When i had mine it was always 40+ mpg.
I owned a 2007 fit for 5 years and no matter how I drove it I always got 33-34 mpg. I tried hypermiling in it shortly after purchase. I got 34.5 mpg. I drove it like I stole it from that point on.
I was going to buy a 2009 Honda Fit with the automatic transmission. The lady bought it new and said it got 39 mpg no matter how she drove it. The automatic runs at 2200 RPM, but the Manual transmission runs at 2800 RPM at 60 mph. 5th gear is to low geared on the manual trannys they say. Honda Fit will be my next car. Love the magic seats!
10:39 The truth of the matter is that if your car has been sitting for less than 1 week, it has nothing to do with oil dispersion (if it is frequently parked longer than this then you would benefit from an electric auxiliary oil pump to re-establish oil dispersion prior to starting). Remember, 80% of wear occurs during startup, which includes the period where the engine is operating below the design operating temperature. Your engine is designed to operate at the temperature set by the thermostat, if you are under this temperature parts fit more loosely increasing wear due to inadequate film strength to compensate for the increased distance between hydrodynamic bearing surfaces resulting in a sort of hammering effect where you oscillate between proper bearing operation and undesirable metal on metal contact at both the top and the bottom of each piston stroke, if you are over this temperature pistons fit too tightly in their bores resulting in increased piston wear, piston ring wear, and in significantly overheated conditions scoring of the pistons and cylinders. These same owners manuals willfully exclude transmission service guidelines outlined by their actual manufacturers so your transmission will go out right after the 100k mile powertrain warranty (BMW does/did this) and they can sell you another one at full retail + install. For a few simple examples, GM undersized transmission coolers for several years resulting in burning of transmission fluid while towing inside their weight guidelines and later programmed the torque converter lock out solenoid on many newer 6l80x transmissions to use too low of a pressure resulting in excessive slippage which in turn promotes accelerated clutch material wear and by extension, premature transmission failure (look up 6l80 slipping remap/ TCC lockup). Just because a manufacturer tells you something doesn't make it correct. In too many cases, so long as they can limp you through the warranty period without being lemon lawed they don't care what happens to you next. Another example: timing belts are a cost saving measure and generate long term, recurring revenue for dealerships. They perform objectively worse compared to direct gear drives but are marginally cheaper to manufacture so are used for that reason along with said long term revenue.
My grandfather always said we should drive like there's an egg under your right foot,mash that pedal too hard you break the egg but lifting too quickly the egg rolls away and breaks as well.I've used his technique with much success,it absolutely helps with mpg but also helps lift awareness in unexpected areas,all for the better
8:34 You don't need an air compressor. A manual bicycle/ball pump works just well. You will need to spend some calories moving the pump, but you'll never need an electrical outlet, risk running down the car battery or have to worry if a cord or hose is long enough.
Really don't miss any of this after ditching petrol for the electrical outlet. But great pointers nonetheless. Especially the needless parking spot hunting for absolutely no savings in time or fuel.
Much money is lost failing to find the consistently lowest price for the quality gas station. Something stupid simple as checking gas station prices with the GasBuddy App saves a bundle in driving time and price paid. The per gallon differences can be significant and are always changing. Cooley forgot cruise control too. CC really helps minimize your engines fuel consumption especially over long highway drives.
Great post, Cooley. You have both style and substance Sir! Q: I've heard that start/stop is not that great for diesel engines, any advice in this area?
Pro tip: the speed limit isn't the speed minimum. You can go under it, which saves fuel. Just don't post attention to your ego and let people pass you.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q Just stay in the right most lane (or whichever side of the road is designated the slowest) and reverse pass people who tail gate you. Going 3-5 mph below the limit isn't terrible and I almost always reach the next stop light at the same time as people who passed me.
Start and stop systems equip stronger, more robust starters, their service life is engineered beyond that of an old, non start and stop equipped car. That concern was taken into account by engineers early in the development of such systems. Source: BMW supplier. 😉😃
best fuel economy in my 3 cars.......warm up just until they past the first line then drive it soft till it gets to mid temp. Accelerate slowly when possible. Coast to stops. Drive on the freeway at 65 or 80 mph ( any speed that I can maintain for a long period of time so it can even be 40 mph as long as there are no stops or hills, if there is a hill 40 mph uses more gas for some reason, it probably just down shifts or keeps the same gear but is struggling to keep it so it wont have to down shift ). One of my cars has engine start stop and I cant turn it off or on since its a plug in hybrid and the only way to defeat the system is to put it in sport mode but then there goes my mpg. Keep tires inflated to car specs. For just my plug in hybrid more mpg by plugging it in and charging it but I think that is considered mpg E.
On the topic of AC, my parents crank the temperature to the lowest and only adjust the fan speed to whatever's comfortable. I tell them to set the temperature the same as our home's thermostat and let the car's auto climate control take care of the rest because putting the temperature on "MAX Cold" is just putting unnecessary stress on the compressor when all they wanted was just a light breeze. My car is almost never dripping condensation water even in the hot state of AZ because I don't set it to freezer mode.
Actually your parents are not doing anything wrong. When ac is on its always fully on, but if you dont demand very cold air it is going to heat the air
Cooley channeling Carlin's "Stuff" bit at the end of the video was great! Always enjoy his content, but the Roadshow cast is an all out great team. Loved the ol' '88 Ford, too. I had a '91 Supercab in that same two-tone silver with gray interior.
6:53 Modern Ford Ecoboost engines do exactly this. They look at the fuel and will make significantly and noticeably more power (usually in the form of more low end torque).
My main reason for moving from a older vehicle would be safety. At the end of the day saving a couple thousand dollars is of no value if a 2020 truck would drastically increase my survival in a wreck vs an 1990 truck. Even if it prevents a hospitalization it's worth it.
@1:23, "Moderate speed"... then your speedometer showed are you were driving about "82" mph LOL. Also, Auto-Start/Stop feature might save some gas but boy oh boy does it do a number on your starter. Does anyone ever calculate how much fuel you saved vs how fast the starter wear out from the constant stopping and starting?
Look carefully again. That's 82 km/h, not mph, with a digital odometer, which didn't exist in a U.S.1988 Ford Bronco. 1:37 is the actual odometer view of the 1988 Ford Bronco.
One tip you forgot to mention. When pulling into a parking lot, try to park so your vehicle is facing out. This way, when it's time to leave, you don't have to waste gas first backing up, and then going forward. This is not always possible and it's saves relatively minor amounts of gas, but overtime, it will add up.
I managed to get 53 mpg driving around town in a 2020 Hyundai Elantra. My 1980 Toyota Tercel averages around 30 mpg in town, at 55mph I get around 50mpg. Motorcycles can get pretty good gas mileage, my 1977 xt500 averages 60 mpg and my 1974 cb350f averages 45-50 mpg.
9:05 Your "label somewhere" assumes the current tires are all matched and identical to the original, which they almost certainly are not. Every tire has it's pressure rating displayed on the sidewall.
It's not. Just do the math. Some modern versions of vehicles are getting nearly double what they were 25 years ago, with the best example being trucks. If you live in LA and do a lot of driving, you would save upwards of $25,000 on fuel over a decade. Mind you, that's only in fuel. Try to keep an old vehicle running for a decade without spending money on repairs. A new vehicle would cost $0 under the warranty period, and it would be minimal for the next 5 or 6 years to follow, because modern vehicles are generally reliable. What's more, a 10 year old vehicle is still an asset and will pay much of itself back, if you decide to trade-in for new one again. In reality, the most economical thing is to buy a new vehicle, take care of it and keep for as long as reliable, or for as long as the repairs aren't totaling out the vehicle.
Mr. Cooley is a car collector, and a renowned Senior Editor-at-Larger at CNET, and he can't afford to spruce up his 1988 Ford Bronco! His diaily commuters, 2 Country Squire station wagons, are in better shape.
Moderate speed is okay, but there's a limit to how slow you can go in a car made for road driving and see any improvement in fuel economy, and that limit is usually about 40 mph. It might be a bit slower if your transmission has a very low top gear, but for engines big enough to be useful propelling a 3000 pound thing, there's always going to be a minimum fuel consumption just because they're running.
If you want to save 100% on gas, don't buy gas - there are other kinds of vehicles available now, and for cheap, if you don't mind buying used. Mine was less than $14K. I only needed an in-town commuter. If you need a truck, it'll be another year or two. Relief is in sight.
I think there are two things I trust if you want to save fuel: 1) keep your tires properly inflated to recommended manufacturer's air pressure. Check air pressure when your car has not been running for 6-7 hours. 2) DO NOT open the windows if you're traveling faster than 43 mph (70 km/h); this is because above the speed I mentioned, aerodynamic drag from an open window on a car is higher than closing the windows and running the air conditioner.
I have an Audi Q5, I can average 6.5L/100 Km on long road trips, by simply driving at the speed limit, and accelerating downhill to build up momentum and decelerating uphill.
The majority of bigger vehicles that I've worked on when I worked at Grease Monkey were full of trash, not tools and useful things but things like empty boxes, clothes, cups, and tons of fast food wrappers. I also think that the average persons weight has a lot to do with their vehicles size. If some one is over weight like the average American, it's a lot easier to slide in and out of an suv or truck than it is to lower yourself into and pull yourself out of a car.
@@bilalahmed2123 highest gear, lowest rpm, there's a sweetspot with every engine that consumes the least amount of fuel per kW produced at a certain load, but if you need less power your engine efficiency will drop but if you need so much less power that it's more efficient to run the engine at that bad efficiency window you will consume less fuel. But if you can hook your engine up to a generator and always run it at it's best efficiency point and charge a battery with it and run an electric motor you will probably still be more efficient than running it normally
I cannot think of a single application where using 0w-20 is advisable, it is so thin that you will get accelerated wear in all but the absolute lowest power applications like scale model engines. It also drains more quickly from the upper portions of the engine including the valve train resulting in increased wear during startup. I see they proudly display NASCAR on the label - many race teams block radiators to get their engines up to operating temperature as fast as possible without using heaters (which are disallowed). The difference in fuel economy is not worth the longevity tradeoff - you can afford to buy a lot of tanks of gas for a motor swap.
Don't tailgate! Tailgating on highways causes heavy braking and hard accelerations. Not only does it waste gas, it causes accordion traffic flow, makes you unable to look ahead to anticipate coasting, leaves little room to pull over for emergency vehicles, and makes all your passengers car sick.
Tell it to all the "zipadee do dahs", and "weavers"! The ones with "issues" who just gotta be in front! The ones on the freeway, who don't like that you're pacing the car in front of you, rather than tailgating someone pacing the car they're following! I was taught to let off the gas when red lights, or stop signs are ahead, instead of racing to the intersection, only to waste more fuel restarting, as well as wearing clutch and brake linings! Also, especially if you have a tachometer(and a vacuum gauge!), learn where the "sweet spot" of mileage is on your vehicle when travelling highways and freeways
If you have an old car that still works fine, no constant repairs, then even if it only gets 15mpg like the truck in this video you are probably better off keeping it longer and spending a little more money on gas instead of a huge new car payment on something that gets 40 MPG. Everyone needs to do their own ROI for their situation though. Gas prices will likely remain on the high side for another 6-10 years when the gas car market crashes because everyone it buying used (or new) EV's that don't need maintenance and cost $250 or less annually to fuel it.
That's absolutely depends on how far your driving. Because the difference in cost 24 mpg and 30 mpg is just a couple hundred bucks. When you get down into the teens 1 to 2 mpg turns in a couple hundred bucks. Stop and go traffic in the middle of summer forget about it. Those trucks are doing semi tractor trailer numbers.
7:47 and in really extreme cases, can shorten the life of your motor. now for most modern engines that 235k miles to 234k miles, but if you want to keep your car long term, that's kind of important.
I deal with raising gasoline prices by owning lots of stocks in oil and natural gas companies. If the prices go up, my stocks go up, if prices go down, I get cheaper gas. Win Win. We've been getting well about our MPG on our 2015 Kia Forte MT.
Dude is driving a truck with over 200k miles and I am pretty sure wearing a Rolex. Legend
If only the living Legend Brian Cooley would make more videos more frequently come on CNET bring back on cars.
I grew up with his car views and weekly videos. God what happened. Such a legend.
By far the best ‘how to save fuel’ video I have ever seen. This is all grounded in real physics and not mentioning irrelevant non-true information.
Cooley always makes great videos
Indeed!!! Grew up watching CarTech!
I agree, he really does
He’s one of my all time favorites. No BS, tells it straight, and really knows what he’s talking about.
Without any doubt 👍👍!!
The best on CNET
He forgot to add drive one foot behind a semi trailer. No hypermiling guts, no hypermiling glory.
And get a cracked windshield doing so.. perfect !
I'm a truckdriver and you don't want to be that close if I blow a trailer tire and send some tread and debris through your windshield.
@@604h22a My co-worker bought a brand new Tesla in 2021. He said the windshield is like $4000.
"Ride Ahead" is what every motorcyclist should know. It'll save your bacon.
Everyone should know it. My CHP-MTC course definitely made me a better driver too, I recommend to everyone to take an MSF course even if they'll never get on a bike.
Biden’s America sucks!!!!!!!!!!
Good rule of thumb, if you're having fun, you're wasting gas!
😐😞
@@Jonesy_Ripley SHO
In an old VW repair book, the author called braking “negative acceleration”, and said to brake only when necessary. He felt that it would help keep your VW, or any vehicle alive.
Glad to see Cooley doing videos more frequently! Still, it would be nice if they brought back Cooley On Cars!
Speed is huge on my 2016 Outback, 40mpg at 50mph, 34mpg at 65mph and 24mpg at 80mph.
Cooley going full dad mode in this one! Love it!!
This is probably the most extensive list of things I'm going to ignore. I love the way it was presented. The older I get and the more expensive fuel gets the less of this I will ignore.
Great tips. You’ve given me something to think about. Another good one is to work remote if you can. That’s a huge gas saver.
Cooley is my clickbait!!!
Keep’em coming 👍🏽
I've doing it recently with my VW 1.9 TDI PD claiming 50mgp UK i always get around 55 fully loaded. Not driving like a grandma. Best I did 760 miles on 55L of fuel or 62mpg
The only thing more awesome than these tips is that Cooley presented them
One fun thing I did was track my MPG. I used the Fuelly app. On my old Escape I got exactly the EPA combined rating of 23mpg. I think that was good as I mostly drove short distances in the suburbs. Now I have a hybrid Fusion and I love it. Still use Fuelly but can't get the EPA 41mpg. I average 39.5
That was an excellent summation of what is necessary to increase mpg. In terms of highway speed, I am virtually the only one on 4 lane highways in my area doing the posted speed limit of 100 kmh/62mph. By doing so I regularly exceed the official mpg numbers for my car. It is sad to say but when it comes right down to it, most people (and most State or Provincial governments) really don't care about driving efficiently. Today's posted speed limits and policed speed limits are 20-30% higher than the optimal speed limits that prevailed when your old truck was built.
As a professional Rideshare driver I used to cruise control all the time. It works somehow but and I stick with the speed limit.
That’s how I get my 6 speed 392 Widebody Challenger to get an average of 23 mpg in mixed driving. Not too shabby.
I need a Cooley bumpersticker to tell the guy tailgating me that I am accelerating smoothly on purpose!
hypermiling is great, but regeneration is the bee's knees. Sadly, you need a hybrid or EV to do that. Good advice though.
I thank you, good sir.
At 9:40 mark when he was referencing toe-in or out, what he was demonstrating was negative or positive camber.
Some car tubers talks to heart, others speaks to brain.
Cooley does both.
Cooley, you forgot to say how much shouting "get off my lawn you damn kids!" would save me.
I'm an EV driver living in hydroelectricity service area... I forgot what a pain this all is. That said, I'm saving for a used MX-5 or 944.
I was waiting for him to put all these tips and tricks to use on the truck he was driving and give us a real would example of what he could achieve for gas mileage.
10:08 Tire width and total diameter are different - increasing width will decrease fuel economy due to increased friction, increasing diameter may or may not improve fuel economy depending on a couple factors including how much of the tire face is exposed to impart drag but it *will* change your effective gear ratio, meaning you can hit a given speed at a lower RPM and assuming you have enough excess torque to maintain said lower RPM without increasing fueling your economy will slightly improve.
Cooley! Cooley! Cooley! Hey Brian. Man i did a Hard Break with my left arm and hand out and down to say that I'm stopping here for my favorite show, and Car aficionado! Vroom!
Best fuel economy is windows up and air conditioning off. Not comfortable in high heat situations though
great content miss the cooley isms
Everything I've been doin for the past 20 years or more. The only time I've ever gotten the EPA mileage was driving in single digit, Fahrenheit, snowy weather. Usually able to the EPA rating by a significant margin.
I drive a 2010 Honda Fit. I accelerate pretty aggressively and go 75 on a 65 road. However, I always coast a while before braking. I've been getting 34.2 mpg avg for the last 9000 miles of combined driving. Honda rates the car at 30 mpg combined so I'm just laughing.
I installed new Denso spark plugs as one of them was coming loose. I use Techron engine cleaner and maintain proper tire inflation.
Use your paddle shifters to slow down . Need to keep the rpms above 1200 i think it was. Keeps the car in dfco mode and saves more gas. When i had mine it was always 40+ mpg.
I owned a 2007 fit for 5 years and no matter how I drove it I always got 33-34 mpg. I tried hypermiling in it shortly after purchase. I got 34.5 mpg. I drove it like I stole it from that point on.
I was going to buy a 2009 Honda Fit with the automatic transmission. The lady bought it new and said it got 39 mpg no matter how she drove it. The automatic runs at 2200 RPM, but the Manual transmission runs at 2800 RPM at 60 mph. 5th gear is to low geared on the manual trannys they say. Honda Fit will be my next car. Love the magic seats!
A new Cooley post. This is a good one!
10:39 The truth of the matter is that if your car has been sitting for less than 1 week, it has nothing to do with oil dispersion (if it is frequently parked longer than this then you would benefit from an electric auxiliary oil pump to re-establish oil dispersion prior to starting). Remember, 80% of wear occurs during startup, which includes the period where the engine is operating below the design operating temperature. Your engine is designed to operate at the temperature set by the thermostat, if you are under this temperature parts fit more loosely increasing wear due to inadequate film strength to compensate for the increased distance between hydrodynamic bearing surfaces resulting in a sort of hammering effect where you oscillate between proper bearing operation and undesirable metal on metal contact at both the top and the bottom of each piston stroke, if you are over this temperature pistons fit too tightly in their bores resulting in increased piston wear, piston ring wear, and in significantly overheated conditions scoring of the pistons and cylinders. These same owners manuals willfully exclude transmission service guidelines outlined by their actual manufacturers so your transmission will go out right after the 100k mile powertrain warranty (BMW does/did this) and they can sell you another one at full retail + install.
For a few simple examples, GM undersized transmission coolers for several years resulting in burning of transmission fluid while towing inside their weight guidelines and later programmed the torque converter lock out solenoid on many newer 6l80x transmissions to use too low of a pressure resulting in excessive slippage which in turn promotes accelerated clutch material wear and by extension, premature transmission failure (look up 6l80 slipping remap/ TCC lockup). Just because a manufacturer tells you something doesn't make it correct. In too many cases, so long as they can limp you through the warranty period without being lemon lawed they don't care what happens to you next.
Another example: timing belts are a cost saving measure and generate long term, recurring revenue for dealerships. They perform objectively worse compared to direct gear drives but are marginally cheaper to manufacture so are used for that reason along with said long term revenue.
Good job Cooley
Glenn
My grandfather always said we should drive like there's an egg under your right foot,mash that pedal too hard you break the egg but lifting too quickly the egg rolls away and breaks as well.I've used his technique with much success,it absolutely helps with mpg but also helps lift awareness in unexpected areas,all for the better
8:34 You don't need an air compressor. A manual bicycle/ball pump works just well. You will need to spend some calories moving the pump, but you'll never need an electrical outlet, risk running down the car battery or have to worry if a cord or hose is long enough.
Yes, very good advice. And what's promising is fuel prices to ramp up.
Really don't miss any of this after ditching petrol for the electrical outlet. But great pointers nonetheless. Especially the needless parking spot hunting for absolutely no savings in time or fuel.
6:54 some cars that recommend premium but require regular actually do.
Much money is lost failing to find the consistently lowest price for the quality gas station. Something stupid simple as checking gas station prices with the GasBuddy App saves a bundle in driving time and price paid. The per gallon differences can be significant and are always changing. Cooley forgot cruise control too. CC really helps minimize your engines fuel consumption especially over long highway drives.
Sweet Ford 🥰
Great tips!
Great post, Cooley. You have both style and substance Sir! Q: I've heard that start/stop is not that great for diesel engines, any advice in this area?
Pro tip: the speed limit isn't the speed minimum. You can go under it, which saves fuel. Just don't post attention to your ego and let people pass you.
Going below the speed limit is a violation if you are impeding the flow. You should be driving at least the speed limit and preferably 5-10 over.
@@user-tb7rn1il3q Just stay in the right most lane (or whichever side of the road is designated the slowest) and reverse pass people who tail gate you. Going 3-5 mph below the limit isn't terrible and I almost always reach the next stop light at the same time as people who passed me.
Where does Cooley get all these mint Fords!
Yeah that start/stop saves gas, but all that savings gets erased when you have to replace your starter for more than the amount you saved on gas.
Start and stop systems equip stronger, more robust starters, their service life is engineered beyond that of an old, non start and stop equipped car. That concern was taken into account by engineers early in the development of such systems. Source: BMW supplier. 😉😃
best fuel economy in my 3 cars.......warm up just until they past the first line then drive it soft till it gets to mid temp. Accelerate slowly when possible. Coast to stops. Drive on the freeway at 65 or 80 mph ( any speed that I can maintain for a long period of time so it can even be 40 mph as long as there are no stops or hills, if there is a hill 40 mph uses more gas for some reason, it probably just down shifts or keeps the same gear but is struggling to keep it so it wont have to down shift ). One of my cars has engine start stop and I cant turn it off or on since its a plug in hybrid and the only way to defeat the system is to put it in sport mode but then there goes my mpg. Keep tires inflated to car specs. For just my plug in hybrid more mpg by plugging it in and charging it but I think that is considered mpg E.
Cooley at it again! Great explanation
On the topic of AC, my parents crank the temperature to the lowest and only adjust the fan speed to whatever's comfortable. I tell them to set the temperature the same as our home's thermostat and let the car's auto climate control take care of the rest because putting the temperature on "MAX Cold" is just putting unnecessary stress on the compressor when all they wanted was just a light breeze. My car is almost never dripping condensation water even in the hot state of AZ because I don't set it to freezer mode.
Actually your parents are not doing anything wrong. When ac is on its always fully on, but if you dont demand very cold air it is going to heat the air
Cooley , Cammisa and me for car stuff reviews .
What a great show !
Cooley channeling Carlin's "Stuff" bit at the end of the video was great! Always enjoy his content, but the Roadshow cast is an all out great team.
Loved the ol' '88 Ford, too. I had a '91 Supercab in that same two-tone silver with gray interior.
6:53 Modern Ford Ecoboost engines do exactly this. They look at the fuel and will make significantly and noticeably more power (usually in the form of more low end torque).
Hi I’m Troy McClure you may remember me from an obscure gas saving video on RUclips…
My main reason for moving from a older vehicle would be safety. At the end of the day saving a couple thousand dollars is of no value if a 2020 truck would drastically increase my survival in a wreck vs an 1990 truck. Even if it prevents a hospitalization it's worth it.
@1:23, "Moderate speed"... then your speedometer showed are you were driving about "82" mph LOL. Also, Auto-Start/Stop feature might save some gas but boy oh boy does it do a number on your starter. Does anyone ever calculate how much fuel you saved vs how fast the starter wear out from the constant stopping and starting?
If someone cares that much about saving fuel at the stoplight, they might as well just buy a hybrid
Look carefully again. That's 82 km/h, not mph, with a digital odometer, which didn't exist in a U.S.1988 Ford Bronco. 1:37 is the actual odometer view of the 1988 Ford Bronco.
@ 1:25, the odometer says 226,013 😲 Clearly Mr. Cooley has taken car of that F150 (except the paint)
One tip you forgot to mention. When pulling into a parking lot, try to park so your vehicle is facing out. This way, when it's time to leave, you don't have to waste gas first backing up, and then going forward. This is not always possible and it's saves relatively minor amounts of gas, but overtime, it will add up.
I managed to get 53 mpg driving around town in a 2020 Hyundai Elantra. My 1980 Toyota Tercel averages around 30 mpg in town, at 55mph I get around 50mpg. Motorcycles can get pretty good gas mileage, my 1977 xt500 averages 60 mpg and my 1974 cb350f averages 45-50 mpg.
Great video!!👌
See a Cooley video....first hit like.... Then watch the video
Works great for evs too
9:05 Your "label somewhere" assumes the current tires are all matched and identical to the original, which they almost certainly are not. Every tire has it's pressure rating displayed on the sidewall.
As a mechanic I feel the junk part. I’m scared to open some of these trunks when we have to
The mental gymnastics of buying a new car to save gas money is insane.
Been happening for generations
It's not. Just do the math. Some modern versions of vehicles are getting nearly double what they were 25 years ago, with the best example being trucks. If you live in LA and do a lot of driving, you would save upwards of $25,000 on fuel over a decade. Mind you, that's only in fuel. Try to keep an old vehicle running for a decade without spending money on repairs. A new vehicle would cost $0 under the warranty period, and it would be minimal for the next 5 or 6 years to follow, because modern vehicles are generally reliable. What's more, a 10 year old vehicle is still an asset and will pay much of itself back, if you decide to trade-in for new one again.
In reality, the most economical thing is to buy a new vehicle, take care of it and keep for as long as reliable, or for as long as the repairs aren't totaling out the vehicle.
@@AkioWasRight I’ll agree in some situations you can manage saving costs but for the most cases these people use it as an excuse into a bad debt trap.
Mr. Cooley is a car collector, and a renowned Senior Editor-at-Larger at CNET, and he can't afford to spruce up his 1988 Ford Bronco! His diaily commuters, 2 Country Squire station wagons, are in better shape.
I learned those tricks owning a hybrid once.
Moderate speed is okay, but there's a limit to how slow you can go in a car made for road driving and see any improvement in fuel economy, and that limit is usually about 40 mph. It might be a bit slower if your transmission has a very low top gear, but for engines big enough to be useful propelling a 3000 pound thing, there's always going to be a minimum fuel consumption just because they're running.
I notice most cars have a high idle for the first minute-ish. I wait until thats done and it idles at normal and then drive it
If you want to save 100% on gas, don't buy gas - there are other kinds of vehicles available now, and for cheap, if you don't mind buying used. Mine was less than $14K. I only needed an in-town commuter. If you need a truck, it'll be another year or two. Relief is in sight.
fast acceleration is the last marker we have :-)
I think there are two things I trust if you want to save fuel: 1) keep your tires properly inflated to recommended manufacturer's air pressure. Check air pressure when your car has not been running for 6-7 hours. 2) DO NOT open the windows if you're traveling faster than 43 mph (70 km/h); this is because above the speed I mentioned, aerodynamic drag from an open window on a car is higher than closing the windows and running the air conditioner.
What about the air filter, some good filters let more air in that drives mpg up. I have seen a great jump just using KG oiled air filters
Scotty and Doug definitely took his views away.. but i am still his fan!
The only thing I hate about cars is the cost.
I have an Audi Q5, I can average 6.5L/100 Km on long road trips, by simply driving at the speed limit, and accelerating downhill to build up momentum and decelerating uphill.
6:54 tell that to my turbocharged Mazda CX-5
11:30 this is why crossovers and SUVs are 70% of sales now...people want more room to store their junk let's face it!
That and people are so arthritic they can’t get in and out of a car
The majority of bigger vehicles that I've worked on when I worked at Grease Monkey were full of trash, not tools and useful things but things like empty boxes, clothes, cups, and tons of fast food wrappers. I also think that the average persons weight has a lot to do with their vehicles size. If some one is over weight like the average American, it's a lot easier to slide in and out of an suv or truck than it is to lower yourself into and pull yourself out of a car.
@@miniaturemachinist6098 Grease Monkey? That's a funny way of saying Government Motors
How about the sweet spot on the highway to give the best fuel economy? Usually get my next highway fuel mileage doing 130km/hr (81 Miles per hour)
The slower the better, just hang behind a Lorry if you wanna get the best fuel economy.
But much more than 75-80mph will chew on your gas.
@@LastWish90 I see better highway fuel mileage at that speed.
@@bilalahmed2123 highest gear, lowest rpm, there's a sweetspot with every engine that consumes the least amount of fuel per kW produced at a certain load, but if you need less power your engine efficiency will drop but if you need so much less power that it's more efficient to run the engine at that bad efficiency window you will consume less fuel.
But if you can hook your engine up to a generator and always run it at it's best efficiency point and charge a battery with it and run an electric motor you will probably still be more efficient than running it normally
sick obs cooley
I cannot think of a single application where using 0w-20 is advisable, it is so thin that you will get accelerated wear in all but the absolute lowest power applications like scale model engines. It also drains more quickly from the upper portions of the engine including the valve train resulting in increased wear during startup. I see they proudly display NASCAR on the label - many race teams block radiators to get their engines up to operating temperature as fast as possible without using heaters (which are disallowed).
The difference in fuel economy is not worth the longevity tradeoff - you can afford to buy a lot of tanks of gas for a motor swap.
Don't tailgate! Tailgating on highways causes heavy braking and hard accelerations. Not only does it waste gas, it causes accordion traffic flow, makes you unable to look ahead to anticipate coasting, leaves little room to pull over for emergency vehicles, and makes all your passengers car sick.
Tell it to all the "zipadee do dahs", and "weavers"! The ones with "issues" who just gotta be in front! The ones on the freeway, who don't like that you're pacing the car in front of you, rather than tailgating someone pacing the car they're following! I was taught to let off the gas when red lights, or stop signs are ahead, instead of racing to the intersection, only to waste more fuel restarting, as well as wearing clutch and brake linings! Also, especially if you have a tachometer(and a vacuum gauge!), learn where the "sweet spot" of mileage is on your vehicle when travelling highways and freeways
Fire all the other randys and get cooley to do reviews again full time
I'd like to see Cooley's cars....I'm assuming the country Squire, this truck and the Crown Vic are all his....
I gave up. At nearly 400lbs, my mpg is a joke no matter how I drive! 😉
I disagree with the neutral gear advice. If I leave my car in gear going downhill, the engine is still at 1600 RPM. If I put it in neutral, it’s
If you have an old car that still works fine, no constant repairs, then even if it only gets 15mpg like the truck in this video you are probably better off keeping it longer and spending a little more money on gas instead of a huge new car payment on something that gets 40 MPG. Everyone needs to do their own ROI for their situation though. Gas prices will likely remain on the high side for another 6-10 years when the gas car market crashes because everyone it buying used (or new) EV's that don't need maintenance and cost $250 or less annually to fuel it.
That's absolutely depends on how far your driving. Because the difference in cost 24 mpg and 30 mpg is just a couple hundred bucks. When you get down into the teens 1 to 2 mpg turns in a couple hundred bucks. Stop and go traffic in the middle of summer forget about it. Those trucks are doing semi tractor trailer numbers.
Dropping $40k just to save $500 / year of fuel.... Yeah, no.
Which I did 😂. But really, it was for a bunch of reasons. A new car is a good feeling.
I hyper mile in my versa 5speed and get 48mpg
I once did 44 mpg with an 2014 acura rlx non-hybrid...
1st skill to learn: Ride a bicycle
Brain - Where are you ? miss your content
The way this guy talks gives me Negan vibes xD
5:58 also finding your car will be easier.
7:47 and in really extreme cases, can shorten the life of your motor. now for most modern engines that 235k miles to 234k miles, but if you want to keep your car long term, that's kind of important.
"Take it easy when accelerating" - That is literally impossible in a fun car
Isn't that the CNET car reviewer guy?
I deal with raising gasoline prices by owning lots of stocks in oil and natural gas companies. If the prices go up, my stocks go up, if prices go down, I get cheaper gas. Win Win. We've been getting well about our MPG on our 2015 Kia Forte MT.