Just a follow up on the couple of issues - ended up being a leak from the oil filter (it came with the car when I bought it and the rubber seal was damaged) and the clutch falling down was due to fluid boiling. After swapping the fluid to high temp, it's completely normal again - eventually I'll upgrade the CSC and eliminate any overheating on that system.
Great to see some 370z love on track. I also got the same car and track it often. It’s such a fun car. Very Japanese muscle car like. Looking forward to more content. I think this issue with the clutch could be the CSC but I would first change the clutch fluid. It’s a common fail item on our cars. People do the Cmak kit.
The CSC is a weak point on the car. This was improved late in the model run. The Viscous LSD turns to an open diff when it overheats. Cheap upgrades are some Nismo suspension parts. People put cheap coils and the Nismo suspension is solid. I run stock Nismo dampers, changed the rear to Wavetrac and 4.08 gears. The faster you go, the bigger oil cooler you need. If you can snag an improved racing 30 row core, it’s larger than a Setrab 34 row. My home track is Sebring if you want to see my 13’ Nismo rip on my channel. She has about 350whp. My fastest laps were with RE71-RS’s.
@@pattyboi I paired Swift Springs with Nismo Dampers. I’ve run both with disconnected rear bar and connected rear bar. Really depends if you’re running staggered or not. But you can never have enough front bar.
Awesome video! Could the squirliness on braking be due to the track alignment? I believe if you go completely zero toe in the rear, you can get that feeling. I think slight toe in in the rear could help a bit.
Hmm I do have a slight amount of toe in on the rear, around 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch. I also wondered if because the stock suspension is soft, maybe the car is diving into each corner? Unsure at the moment but maybe I can try adding a little bit more toe in with the next alignment in both the front and rear
The clutch slave cylinder is inside the transmission its a common failure point cuz of all heat. For you it mightve just overheated or maybe on its way out. Zspeed and z1 sell CSC delete kits that puts the cylinder outside the transmission. Theyre more durable and even when its time to replace you can do it without having to drop tje whole transmission
Clutch line runs just above the cats and gets very hot, after a couple laps my pedal disappeared. You can replace the small section of clutch line with braided with additional insulation, never had the issue again 👍🏻
@@pattyboi 👍🏻 Z1 sell the part, simple install but yeah you’ll need to empty and then bleed clutch system. At least you’ll be able to upgrade to some high temp Motul fluid 💪🏻
Next mods I recommend in order: Active Baffle oil sump Rear diff cover Transmission cooler Polyurethane Bushings $$ Track Mods: Boundary Oil Pump Oil Gallery Gaskets (only do if upgrading pump) Remote oil filter + Oil Accumulator (only do after oil pump) Fuel Surge Tank Things that prevent failure when under lateral G.
I've got a diff cover ready to go on! That's interesting you say to only do the gallery gaskets if upgrading the pump, I figured that was a maintenance item regardless? Especially since an oil cooler will increase oil pressure
@@pattyboi The 2013+ 370z have the updated gaskets so there's no need to upgrade it till 100k miles. They essentially have to remove the engine to do it, so it's a lot of labor. Edit: Yikes, that's a 2012. You're gonna need to update the gasket then :( If you know a guy, good. But a shop will charge around $2k to change that.
![Racing Against Cars with Double the Horsepower!! [Subaru BRZ POV Track Battle @ Pocono Raceway!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lU8HBHKdt24/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a follow up on the couple of issues - ended up being a leak from the oil filter (it came with the car when I bought it and the rubber seal was damaged) and the clutch falling down was due to fluid boiling. After swapping the fluid to high temp, it's completely normal again - eventually I'll upgrade the CSC and eliminate any overheating on that system.
Great to see some 370z love on track. I also got the same car and track it often. It’s such a fun car. Very Japanese muscle car like. Looking forward to more content. I think this issue with the clutch could be the CSC but I would first change the clutch fluid. It’s a common fail item on our cars. People do the Cmak kit.
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Love the trumpet sound 👌
The CSC is a weak point on the car. This was improved late in the model run.
The Viscous LSD turns to an open diff when it overheats.
Cheap upgrades are some Nismo suspension parts. People put cheap coils and the Nismo suspension is solid.
I run stock Nismo dampers, changed the rear to Wavetrac and 4.08 gears. The faster you go, the bigger oil cooler you need. If you can snag an improved racing 30 row core, it’s larger than a Setrab 34 row.
My home track is Sebring if you want to see my 13’ Nismo rip on my channel. She has about 350whp. My fastest laps were with RE71-RS’s.
Do you have stock springs with the Nismo dampers? Definitely interested in shorter gearing one day 😁
@@pattyboi I paired Swift Springs with Nismo Dampers. I’ve run both with disconnected rear bar and connected rear bar. Really depends if you’re running staggered or not. But you can never have enough front bar.
Awesome video! Could the squirliness on braking be due to the track alignment? I believe if you go completely zero toe in the rear, you can get that feeling. I think slight toe in in the rear could help a bit.
Hmm I do have a slight amount of toe in on the rear, around 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch. I also wondered if because the stock suspension is soft, maybe the car is diving into each corner? Unsure at the moment but maybe I can try adding a little bit more toe in with the next alignment in both the front and rear
The clutch slave cylinder is inside the transmission its a common failure point cuz of all heat.
For you it mightve just overheated or maybe on its way out.
Zspeed and z1 sell CSC delete kits that puts the cylinder outside the transmission. Theyre more durable and even when its time to replace you can do it without having to drop tje whole transmission
Yeah I have a feeling mine overheated, I'll probably drop the trans to take care of that next year. Hopefully it can last long enough for that 😬
Clutch line runs just above the cats and gets very hot, after a couple laps my pedal disappeared. You can replace the small section of clutch line with braided with additional insulation, never had the issue again 👍🏻
Ooooo that would definitely be good, I think maybe next time I have to bleed or if I ever do a clutch that would be a worthwhile upgrade
@@pattyboi 👍🏻 Z1 sell the part, simple install but yeah you’ll need to empty and then bleed clutch system. At least you’ll be able to upgrade to some high temp Motul fluid 💪🏻
Nice. When will your brother get back on the track with his EN?
Next mods I recommend in order:
Active Baffle oil sump
Rear diff cover
Transmission cooler
Polyurethane Bushings
$$ Track Mods:
Boundary Oil Pump
Oil Gallery Gaskets (only do if upgrading pump)
Remote oil filter + Oil Accumulator (only do after oil pump)
Fuel Surge Tank
Things that prevent failure when under lateral G.
I've got a diff cover ready to go on! That's interesting you say to only do the gallery gaskets if upgrading the pump, I figured that was a maintenance item regardless? Especially since an oil cooler will increase oil pressure
@@pattyboi The 2013+ 370z have the updated gaskets so there's no need to upgrade it till 100k miles. They essentially have to remove the engine to do it, so it's a lot of labor.
Edit: Yikes, that's a 2012. You're gonna need to update the gasket then :(
If you know a guy, good. But a shop will charge around $2k to change that.
@@MyFaux oh mines a 2012, I'm planning to do that along with some other service items during this winter
Sounds great bro
Ayeeeeeeee
What are those wheels? They look awesome.
SSR GTX01! They're an 18x10.5 with a 22 offset
Im thinking about buying a 350z
They're great!