Thanks dude. I've been banging my head over my 97 yz250 for 6 months tryna figure out the fouling problem. Lol I split the case and did a full rebuild and turns out it was bad reeds
Thanks. My RM125 I just fully rebuilt fouls plugs within 20 seconds. I tried re jetting it but no luck. Pulled off the reeds and some of the petals don’t close all the way
@@mdarazs hopefully that’s the problem for ya. If it isn’t , there’s a possibility the cases are letting transmission oil into the crank housing. This is common after rebuilds, the tiniest smodge or nick on the sealing surface between the case half’s can definitely cause oil fouling of a plug. And easy way to check this it to empty the bike of fuel, purge the engine (meaning kick it over a shit load without a plug in), put the plug back in, kick it over a few times without fuel, pull the plug and inspect for oil, if it’s covered in oil that doesn’t smell like two stoke oil then there’s most likely case oil finding its way inside the crank case. Another way (if you can get to run long enough) is to pull the case filler cap while the engine is at idle, if there’s positive pressure coming out of the filler hole you’ve got a case leak or crank seal bad
Hey quick question I see the video you posted but my 85 has the same issue but the power band doesn’t hit right in 1st or 2nd good but all the other gears are good you think I might need new reeds?
Could be ...if it’s not the reeds it could be a sticky exhaust valve or jetting...could be ignition related given the year but unlikely given what you’ve described 🤷🏼♂️
question???? Will the reeds cause fuel to not get into the cylinder? I replaced mine with a fiber set from amazon (i know not the best choice but all i could do at the time)and now im not getting fuel to the cylinder. pull plug its dry. Have plenty of spark and 125psi of compression. Any help would be great. THanks guys.
Could be a couple of things…obstructed transfer ports, leaking crank seals, bad cylinder base gasket, extremely dirty air filter, bad carb……you can eliminate a lot by seeing if it will attempt to fire on starting fluid…if it does fire then it’s a fuel problem…start with the petcock, then work your way down…if it fires on starting fluid then reeds are most likely not the issue but they certainly could be…if there’s large gaps between the reeds and the reed cage then that could creat a hard to start issue
Having the same problem on my yz I’m going fucking insane trying to get this lectron to cold start. I just ordered v vorce 3 so hopefully it helps me too.
Yeah bro, if you have good compression, good fuel/air and good spark then a hard to start issue is almost always reed valves …well…unless you’re carburetor is totally fucked 😂😂… another thing to look for is a vacuum leak somewhere between the carburetor and the cylinder base…the crank case could also have a leak letting transmission oil into the crank case (the other side of this is jet, black dark carving fouling of the plug…assuming your jetting is correct)
Sounds like a very bad vacuum leak or if you got a cheap carb off of Amazon trust me those Chinese knock offs run lean right out of the box...it’s not the reeds because when they fail the motors load up and foul plugs
I have a question. My bike is bogging yz125 2003 down. Smoking bad i change crank seal water pump seal didn't fix it took it to shop i would love to know it sounds like there fluid inside crank i could be wrong i change reeds today before i gave up
Couple of things it could be..1 your cases need to be re sealed or they’re cracked and it’s letting transmission oil in the crank case 2 you’ve got a cracked cylinder that’s letting coolant into the crank case 3 your float height isn’t set correctly and it flooding the engine with raw fuel by way of gravity. (This one is probably the easiest to diagnose. All you have to do is turn the fuel off and start the motor. If the motor cleans up and starts running better than you know that your float height is messed up or you’re jetting is way off. )Hope this helps
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 I think it's float I turn gas off it did clear up my cases are sealed good an my cylinder an piston is new il keep u posted shop said they will look at it sat I gave them apex head an new carb to install too so but I did install the carb it didn't help so i put my old one back on so it's gotta be in engine il keep u posted
Thanks for posting. Quick question... I'm also running the VForce3 Reed setup on my 2003 CR125. For a while now, kicking it has been very easy, but hard to start. So easy to kick, I could easily push the kickstarter down with my hand. I checked compression and it's around 110 PSI, which is very low. I pulled the reed cage and the reeds are shot as I can see light around a couple sections of the reeds, so not a good seal. I will replace them, but I was curious if you also found that kickstarting your bike with those bad reeds was way too easy (ie. lack of compression)? Thanks again for the post.
Yes I did notice a dramatic increase in compression once I replaced the reeds...having said that it was never easy enough to push by hand...it sounds like you’ve got a worn out top end...replacing the piston and ring doesn’t mean much if you don’t actually measure the cylinder and see the wear .... also those year CR 125s had issues with their power valves gumming up and staying in the open position...reeds could be your problem but my Vforce reeds right outta the box had small gaps in the reeds...the instructions clearly stated in bold text that this is NOT a problem for the v force design. Hate to say it bud but you probably need a new top end 🤷🏼♂️
Also a leaking base gasket can cause you issues as well...you’ll notice a wondering idle once it’s running...it will also act like it’s idling high for about 5 to 10 seconds then drop in rpm and stall (no mater what you do with the carb this will never change) you’ll have hard to start issues...leaning in the high rpms and no bottom end power...my general rule of thumb with two strokes is rebuild them as often as possible and have a shit ton of spare parts on hand 🤷🏼♂️
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 Thanks. Gaskets were in good shape. No leaks. I'm replacing the piston and ring, but I'm curious if you lost any compression when your reeds were bad? My compression was low, but my ring gap was within specs. So I'mjust curious if bad reeds can cause low compression?
No, compression is made by the piston, low compression is generally worn out rings, holes in pistons, worn or damaged cylinder wall, cracked head, bad head gasket, loose spark plug or (in very rare cases) an improperly installed cylinder liner (if equipped)
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 I've done a lot of reading. The best way for a budget rider to diagnose top and bottom end problems is to one check the gear oil. If it's not clean, there are seal issues. Two check the coolant. If no issues there, bottom end should be good.
@@RideWithTheWolf not necessarily, gear oil can look contaminated just by being old because of the clutch particles, coolant can also look contaminated if it’s old or has the wrong coolant…the best way to check the cooling system is with a pressure tester…the best way to check the bottom end is to physically measure the crankshaft end play and look for leaking seals IE oil in the stator housing…the rod bearing must be inspected by disassembling the top end and check for play. Don’t ever assume the previous owner of the bike knew what they were doing in regards to maintenance (because 98.9% of people don’t)…general rule of thumb with 2 stroke dirt bikes is to COMPLETELY rebuild the engine when you purchase a used dirt bike…everything in that engine has a service life and most people cut all kinds of corners, run cheap oil with shit gas, don’t properly tune the carb, use cheap ass parts etc…don’t ever think you can save money on a dirt bike…there are tons of dudes in wheelchairs because their engine failed unexpectedly when trying to clear gaps
@@RideWithTheWolf if you’re new to wrenching on a bike please for the love of god buy a service manual, buy the proper tools to take it apart, torque every bolt and screw to the specified requirements and get schooled up on carb jetting…the # 1 reason two strokes blow up is because they aren’t jetted correctly, running lean is a death sentence for the motor and running rich will foul a plug when you need the power the most
You can flip them if you are in a pinch, so not really “retarded” I flipped some out on a trail ride and forgot about it for 30 more hours before they deformed the other way because I forgot about it.
Yeah in a pinch to get ya back to the truck or camp…but it’s not good to leave them that way, you just got lucky in my opinion. I’ve had reeds break and send the debris through the transfer ports and get stuck. It only has to happen once for me to stop doing things that lead to more headaches. Like I said in the video…it’s retarded to risk doing more damage when they’re so easy and cheap to fix in the first place…im just speaking from personal experience, I was a dumb teenager who had way more ambition than talent and often learned valuable lessons the hardest way possible 😂…But thanks you for the comment 🙏
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 the reeds could break off and run through the engine engine, it would not hurt it. They aren’t metal. How did it suck debris past an air filter? I’ve had new v force reeds break and run through an engine with no damage.
@@collinthibodeaux4742 in a pinch sure, but that gets ya home…not through a race or a weekend. When things bend one way millions of times and become brittle, they tend to snap when you try to bend them the other way …but hey if you like splitting cases to unplug your transfer ports be my guest 🫡
Thanks dude. I've been banging my head over my 97 yz250 for 6 months tryna figure out the fouling problem. Lol I split the case and did a full rebuild and turns out it was bad reeds
Glad it helped 👍 thanks for the feedback 🙏
Thanks. My RM125 I just fully rebuilt fouls plugs within 20 seconds. I tried re jetting it but no luck. Pulled off the reeds and some of the petals don’t close all the way
@@mdarazs hopefully that’s the problem for ya. If it isn’t , there’s a possibility the cases are letting transmission oil into the crank housing. This is common after rebuilds, the tiniest smodge or nick on the sealing surface between the case half’s can definitely cause oil fouling of a plug. And easy way to check this it to empty the bike of fuel, purge the engine (meaning kick it over a shit load without a plug in), put the plug back in, kick it over a few times without fuel, pull the plug and inspect for oil, if it’s covered in oil that doesn’t smell like two stoke oil then there’s most likely case oil finding its way inside the crank case. Another way (if you can get to run long enough) is to pull the case filler cap while the engine is at idle, if there’s positive pressure coming out of the filler hole you’ve got a case leak or crank seal bad
I also have 99 its my first 125 and ill have to check my reeds, Great video keep it up!
Thanks for ther useful info. Been having issues with an older sled I just bought that has aftermarket vforce4 system on it. Thanks man and good luck.
Did you have a problem with the vforce reeds not sealing on the cage properly when you got them? I can see massive amounts of light through mibe
Yes it’s entirely normal for v force reeds...some gap is acceptable even with stock reeds
Awsome video! Thanks for the help!
Glad it helped ya 👍
How could that after market one even fit? It’s 3x as thick
Hey quick question I see the video you posted but my 85 has the same issue but the power band doesn’t hit right in 1st or 2nd good but all the other gears are good you think I might need new reeds?
Could be ...if it’s not the reeds it could be a sticky exhaust valve or jetting...could be ignition related given the year but unlikely given what you’ve described 🤷🏼♂️
hey man did you figure it out my mr85 has been doing the same exact thing
question???? Will the reeds cause fuel to not get into the cylinder? I replaced mine with a fiber set from amazon (i know not the best choice but all i could do at the time)and now im not getting fuel to the cylinder. pull plug its dry. Have plenty of spark and 125psi of compression. Any help would be great. THanks guys.
Could be a couple of things…obstructed transfer ports, leaking crank seals, bad cylinder base gasket, extremely dirty air filter, bad carb……you can eliminate a lot by seeing if it will attempt to fire on starting fluid…if it does fire then it’s a fuel problem…start with the petcock, then work your way down…if it fires on starting fluid then reeds are most likely not the issue but they certainly could be…if there’s large gaps between the reeds and the reed cage then that could creat a hard to start issue
Having the same problem on my yz I’m going fucking insane trying to get this lectron to cold start. I just ordered v vorce 3 so hopefully it helps me too.
Yeah bro, if you have good compression, good fuel/air and good spark then a hard to start issue is almost always reed valves …well…unless you’re carburetor is totally fucked 😂😂… another thing to look for is a vacuum leak somewhere between the carburetor and the cylinder base…the crank case could also have a leak letting transmission oil into the crank case (the other side of this is jet, black dark carving fouling of the plug…assuming your jetting is correct)
Will that Urine Gone spray fix a leaking carburator?
😂 perhaps 🤔 thanks for the view and the comment 👍
Are you selling your electron carb...
sweet alto charger hope your rippin menthol, thx for help
I have a pw50 that once it starts it revs to the moon on its own. I bought a new carb for it and nothing has changed. Could this be a reed issue?
Sounds like a very bad vacuum leak or if you got a cheap carb off of Amazon trust me those Chinese knock offs run lean right out of the box...it’s not the reeds because when they fail the motors load up and foul plugs
I have a question. My bike is bogging yz125 2003 down. Smoking bad i change crank seal water pump seal didn't fix it took it to shop i would love to know it sounds like there fluid inside crank i could be wrong i change reeds today before i gave up
Couple of things it could be..1 your cases need to be re sealed or they’re cracked and it’s letting transmission oil in the crank case 2 you’ve got a cracked cylinder that’s letting coolant into the crank case 3 your float height isn’t set correctly and it flooding the engine with raw fuel by way of gravity. (This one is probably the easiest to diagnose. All you have to do is turn the fuel off and start the motor. If the motor cleans up and starts running better than you know that your float height is messed up or you’re jetting is way off. )Hope this helps
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 I think it's float I turn gas off it did clear up my cases are sealed good an my cylinder an piston is new il keep u posted shop said they will look at it sat I gave them apex head an new carb to install too so but I did install the carb it didn't help so i put my old one back on so it's gotta be in engine il keep u posted
@@michaelgarland579 sounds like the float then…could be an ignition issue too but I think not based on what you’ve described
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 ok il keep u posted it bugs me alot I spent thousands on old bike
Thanks for posting. Quick question... I'm also running the VForce3 Reed setup on my 2003 CR125. For a while now, kicking it has been very easy, but hard to start. So easy to kick, I could easily push the kickstarter down with my hand. I checked compression and it's around 110 PSI, which is very low. I pulled the reed cage and the reeds are shot as I can see light around a couple sections of the reeds, so not a good seal. I will replace them, but I was curious if you also found that kickstarting your bike with those bad reeds was way too easy (ie. lack of compression)? Thanks again for the post.
Yes I did notice a dramatic increase in compression once I replaced the reeds...having said that it was never easy enough to push by hand...it sounds like you’ve got a worn out top end...replacing the piston and ring doesn’t mean much if you don’t actually measure the cylinder and see the wear .... also those year CR 125s had issues with their power valves gumming up and staying in the open position...reeds could be your problem but my Vforce reeds right outta the box had small gaps in the reeds...the instructions clearly stated in bold text that this is NOT a problem for the v force design. Hate to say it bud but you probably need a new top end 🤷🏼♂️
Also a leaking base gasket can cause you issues as well...you’ll notice a wondering idle once it’s running...it will also act like it’s idling high for about 5 to 10 seconds then drop in rpm and stall (no mater what you do with the carb this will never change) you’ll have hard to start issues...leaning in the high rpms and no bottom end power...my general rule of thumb with two strokes is rebuild them as often as possible and have a shit ton of spare parts on hand 🤷🏼♂️
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 Thanks. Gaskets were in good shape. No leaks. I'm replacing the piston and ring, but I'm curious if you lost any compression when your reeds were bad? My compression was low, but my ring gap was within specs. So I'mjust curious if bad reeds can cause low compression?
@@EricLaPrad this answer is yes absolutely.
@@EricLaPrad post a vid when it’s running 👍 I’ll be sure to check it out
Will bad reeds cause low compression?
No, compression is made by the piston, low compression is generally worn out rings, holes in pistons, worn or damaged cylinder wall, cracked head, bad head gasket, loose spark plug or (in very rare cases) an improperly installed cylinder liner (if equipped)
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 I've done a lot of reading. The best way for a budget rider to diagnose top and bottom end problems is to one check the gear oil. If it's not clean, there are seal issues. Two check the coolant. If no issues there, bottom end should be good.
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 some people in the comments said they rebuilt the whole bike and found out later is was the reeds.
@@RideWithTheWolf not necessarily, gear oil can look contaminated just by being old because of the clutch particles, coolant can also look contaminated if it’s old or has the wrong coolant…the best way to check the cooling system is with a pressure tester…the best way to check the bottom end is to physically measure the crankshaft end play and look for leaking seals IE oil in the stator housing…the rod bearing must be inspected by disassembling the top end and check for play. Don’t ever assume the previous owner of the bike knew what they were doing in regards to maintenance (because 98.9% of people don’t)…general rule of thumb with 2 stroke dirt bikes is to COMPLETELY rebuild the engine when you purchase a used dirt bike…everything in that engine has a service life and most people cut all kinds of corners, run cheap oil with shit gas, don’t properly tune the carb, use cheap ass parts etc…don’t ever think you can save money on a dirt bike…there are tons of dudes in wheelchairs because their engine failed unexpectedly when trying to clear gaps
@@RideWithTheWolf if you’re new to wrenching on a bike please for the love of god buy a service manual, buy the proper tools to take it apart, torque every bolt and screw to the specified requirements and get schooled up on carb jetting…the # 1 reason two strokes blow up is because they aren’t jetted correctly, running lean is a death sentence for the motor and running rich will foul a plug when you need the power the most
Drop that needle and open it up..
2 strokes are amazing..
Gotta love em...they’re a nightmare to tune but when they’re right they’re fuckin rad
You can flip them if you are in a pinch, so not really “retarded” I flipped some out on a trail ride and forgot about it for 30 more hours before they deformed the other way because I forgot about it.
Yeah in a pinch to get ya back to the truck or camp…but it’s not good to leave them that way, you just got lucky in my opinion. I’ve had reeds break and send the debris through the transfer ports and get stuck. It only has to happen once for me to stop doing things that lead to more headaches. Like I said in the video…it’s retarded to risk doing more damage when they’re so easy and cheap to fix in the first place…im just speaking from personal experience, I was a dumb teenager who had way more ambition than talent and often learned valuable lessons the hardest way possible 😂…But thanks you for the comment 🙏
@@localenterprisebroadcastin5971 the reeds could break off and run through the engine engine, it would not hurt it. They aren’t metal. How did it suck debris past an air filter? I’ve had new v force reeds break and run through an engine with no damage.
@@kevinragsdale6256you like to argue!
He is right, & right is right.
HAHAH somebody told me i should flip the flaps out Luckily i didnt listen
Yeah it’s a common thing people do..it’s stupid and it doesn’t work 😂
You can just flip the reeds over
@@collinthibodeaux4742 in a pinch sure, but that gets ya home…not through a race or a weekend. When things bend one way millions of times and become brittle, they tend to snap when you try to bend them the other way …but hey if you like splitting cases to unplug your transfer ports be my guest 🫡
You didn’t watch the whole video he said in the video somguys will tell you to flip them and it’s retarded