i have the same issue with my recently purchased kawasaki brute force 750 atv. Seller told me it ran great and had the carb cleaned and re jetted by a local shop just before he put the bike in storage for the winter season. When i showed up to buy it, it spitted and sputtered like crazy and would not stay running. After i rode it around a little bit i raised the choke level up about 15% and it seemed to run fine then...the idle was great and no more sputtering or spitting. Seller was shocked and told me it ran perfectly before he stored it for the winter. I went ahead and bought it anyways knowing it was fixable no matter what and he gave me a killer price on it so I was still stoked to buy it. I so far am just riding it with the choke partially open and it runs fine so far that way at least.
colourtune plugs are handy as you can check the color of the flame which should be Bunsen blue after the choke is pulled in. there is a mixture screw under the carb usually which you can screw out a turn to get more fuel...might be worth a try. As long as the jets are the correct ones and the float heights are correct then with a clean carb the bike should run well.
This was probrably one of the best videos about small carbs thank you so much I dont think Anyone could have explained that any better video was straight to the point.. Ive been struggling with a small carb. First it was leaking out the over flow then it was backfiring thru the air intake now its bogging down with throttle doesnt die starts right up but bogs way down driving me crazy but im pretty sure after dozens of videos this is the video i needed to see. Will let you know thanks again
Just got a 05 Yamaha bruin 350 in excellent condition. After about two weeks of riding, it started sputtering and bogging out when I give it gas. Took carb apart to clean and it was like brand new inside, but I cleaned anyway and replaced sparkplug. Put carb back on and same problem. If I slowly give it gas it'll slowly pick up rpms and fly but as soon as I decrease gas and begin to increase again I get the same sputtering like it's starving for gas or getting to much. Like I said, this machine hasn't been taken care of very well and has less than 1000 miles. It also will backfire a little bit every once in a while after I get off gas at high speeds. Need help
Being a 2 stroke the crankshaft seals may have dried out over time and is coursing an air leak around the crank. Check all gaskets and crankshaft seals as you don't need to hole a piston with a lean fuel air mixture. Take care and good luck 👍
This is indeed a brilliant explanation ever to my Yamaha AG 200. By looking at this vedeo I've also checked and cleaned the main horse's nipple from the fuel tank to the cab which was being blocked by so many dirts. 2 Problems that were solved are engine dies when at low RPM or when at higher RPM, and hard starts again at about 3 minutes. ❤❤
Thank you! Having a heck of a time with my 125cc sputtering and definitely not idling. Always has run great previously. I cleaned out the carb but will re-check these side ports. I’ll let you know if it works!
Thank you!!! I am a complete noob and just started getting into ATV’s last summer. I am currently on my pulling carb for the 7/8 time done yesterday. the same carburetor in and out with out luck This video may be my saving grace
What kind of atv are you working on? And did you try this yet? Having problems with a 2004 predator 500 stalls at idle. I’m going to try and pull the carburetor this weekend.
im going to try this today. i have an old 1991 honda 300 fourtrax that seems to carbon plugs almost instantly. the bike idles great and can putt around in SL no problem, but as soon as your on the throttle to get through your gears, its as if the mid range power is completely gone it struggles to accelerate, and it starts to come back in to normal in the high end RPM. its causing jerky acceleration through gears and when finding your cruising speed. ive taken apart the carb and cleaned the jets, along with replaced the air and oil filters, plug and oil. somewhat fixes the problem but reverts back (my guess once the plug fouls) im starting to think the float may need to be adjusted now, thanks for the new lead!
Man runs perfect in every gear when you put it in reverse it don't have no power it just spits and sputters will not go backwards I also bought a brand spanking new carburetor and put it on it and it run perfect but like I said when you put it in reverse it just spits its better it won't go backwards unless you're on flat ground
Really liked this video. Thanks Thomas! I'm new to working on small motors and eager to learn. Learned alot. Thank you. This is the first of your videos. I've subscribed and will be checking more of your videos. I'm here because, guess what? My new to me, used ATV, is having carb issues. So again, thanks
Best explanation yet. 2 out of four are doing this. I'm on it. Thanks. The 99 honda 300, never a problem. The rubicon 472, both have this issue. Was puzzling. Will follow.
You make a whole lotta sense bro! I'm having the same sputtering symptoms, only I have a Harley 2009 cvo fatbob with electronic fuel injection and what you just explained with the example with a carburetor is the same in nature, "Thanks big guy and be safe!
Thanks man. Just bought my first carberated bike and want to learn as much as i can about it so i can wrench on it myself. It spits occasionally, its about 40 degrees out here in colorado, and it apears to only do it when choke is all the way in... so it may just need to be dyno tuned... apparently again... not sure if its tuned for this elevation. Assumed it was and that may be a mistake as i should have asked and the dealership may have shipped it up from elsewhere.
I took apart my carburetor yesterday and when putting it back together I found a gold screw and didn’t know where it belonged 🤦♂️ now I know 😂. Gotta take back apart
I could not figure it out. My new motorcycle only has 200 miles on it. Came with a carburetor I have to work to get the screws off the bowl. No biggie. Yet it puzzled my on what it was doing. Did not make sense. Now it does. So, I'm going to do exactly what you suggest. I will see. If works, you just saved me money and a big headache. Thanks for your help.
Great video. I succeeded in rebuilding both carbs on my 1997 Polaris 500 snowmobile thanks to this video. Reassembled carbs on machine and fired it up. The mag cylinder is not drawing in the fuel, thus the mag cylinder is not firing. Suggestions?
Thanks for the video. I have a mercruiser 3.0 litre. I was having some bogging issues under load. I changed the fuel filter at the base of the engine, the filter just inside the carb where the fuel line attaches. Cleaned out the clear tube running from the carb back down to the fuel filter at the base of the engine. I put in new spark plugs gapped to .030. Now the boat is running better, the idle is still a little rough but the main issue is after I've been at full throttle for a few minutes I begin to hear a popping sound. I back the throttle down and the popping goes away but then at no wake speed I hear a ticking sound. I've run three cans of Seafoam through 15 gallons of gas so far. After shutting down the engine for a half hour or more the boat seems to work fine until full throttle results in popping again. Thanks for your thoughts!
Just a suggestion but try adjusting the valves. Even if that's not the problem it is always nice to rule valve adjustment out. The ticking could be a loose rocker arm and this will usually cause a hard starting issue or long crank times before starting.
@@jessesmith1181 Thanks for the idea. I am new to working on my boat this season. The boat usually starts right up. Are the things you've suggested something to do after taking the boat out after the season is over? I keep the boat on a Shore Station lift with a canopy. My only concern is that I wouldn't have the boat put back together before 9/15 when I plan to take her out for the season. Will I do damage to the boat if I continue to run her conservatively until the end of the season? Thanks!
Not sure about damage, it really depends on how far out of adjustment the valves are but if you are hearing them tapping or ticking one of them could be pretty far out. There is a 15 minute ish video on you tube just for the mercruiser 3.0valve adjustment. So you know exactly what you are in for labor wise
The popping you are describing is it a backfire through the carburetor or out the exhaust possibly? Trying to figure out what u mean when u say popping at full throttle
@@jessesmith1181 The ticking becomes un-audible after about 3-5 minutes while running at no wake. However the cycle repeats itself (popping then ticking) if I go to wot after the ticking stops.
Fantastic man I think you've just reminded me to clean the little holes on the jets I so got lazy and just changed the jets didn't bother to look in the little holes thanks for real man , peace
That’s crazy I was looking at buying a 2008Q link 700 front runner side-by-side with a sputtering issue in the first video. I find covers my ATVs issues I have a 400 Polaris and I’ve been struggling with the sputtering issue so now that took care of that problem.
Iva a Kawasaki KLF 300 that won’t start !! It was originally just getting slower and slower to start, so I stripped carb and replaced all needles and jets etc , I found someone before me at left in too many rubber rings and washer on pilot air screw jet , but now after re-assemble it won’t fire at all ?? Just seems to back fire through carb a little bit , I’ve good fuel and I have spark , I’ve tried spraying into carb while cranking to see but still no fire ????
similar issue with my royal Enfield 350cc. Uses a 29mm carb, the bike tends to start dying when it's running with load at a constant throttle, say through the mid-range RPMs (2000- 3500 rpm), but post that 3500 rpm till the redline at 5500 it works fine when throttle position is constant there.
Hey man. Love your video my mate has 150cc pitbike. He had no air filter. I make him get air filter. Bike runs bad with air filter. We clean side of jets and all carb. Bike still runs OK when take off air filter. I have try to adjust air fuel mix screw but it is always lumpy in the top end and try’s stalling
I have a 98 yz250 2 stroke. Previous owner must have hit something very hard because the front rim was so bent that when moving it, the tire would rub the front shocks. I'm having a similar issue. But mine is occurring as I'm hitting the powerband. The bike will act like it's starving for fuel and after a few quick twists of the throttle it'll go back to full power - resulting in the front wheel coming off the ground. I'm going to pull the carb off this weekend and give it a good cleaning. Fingers crossed that I find some green goo. Otherwise I might be looking towards checking out the power valve. I'm new to 2 stroke dirt bikes/ bikes in general. I purchased it 2 months ago and have slowly been replacing parts. I'm a diesel mechanic and love tinkering with small engines. I'm open to any suggestions.
I'm getting a sputtering at low revs, low speeds. Usually at minimal throttle use. Full throttle and regular riding is fine. Model is a VZ800 (M800) 2011 Suzuki Intruder. M50 in the states. Here's the thing....fuel injected rather than carbs
Like the video and so correct, I have a polaris Razor that was cleaned and I took the entire thing apart. I started the engine and adjusted the air fuel screw along with the idle screw. The engine idles but will not accelerate without popping and spitting. I have adjusted the needle through every setting, please help
I have a situation that's very confusing, I took a ride into a patch of woods on my 2017 Polaris 450 HO for maybe thirty minutes-there was no path so I was running over trees big and small-I made it out of the woods but at the treeline, my engine started running rough, sputtering, backfiring. Luckily, I made it back home at a crawl while cranking the throttle back and forth, I had a new plug -OEM- so I switched it out- never did see the carb to see if I pulled anything loose, the plug didn't help much. I lifted the front end up so I could check out the bottom side, saw nothing pulled loose or hanging. That's my situation and any help would be appreciated
I have a Farmall 100 tractor that fires up with no problem. Then it starts sputtering and puffing smoke out the exhaust like it's flooding or choking. After doing this for several minutes, the engine will finally die. But, I can pull the starter and it will immediately fire back up with no hesitation before repeating the same issues as before. When it is sputtering, the rod leading from the carburetor will move back and forth instead of staying stationary like you would expect. Do you have any ideas as to what may be the cause of my issues? I inherited the tractor from my late grandfather and have some mechanical experience, but am in no way a professional. Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
I have a 2004 Can-Am we had to clean the gas tank and all that out. I was having trouble with the original carburetor. We think we cleaned it out properly but would not work. It was getting too much gas so I bought a Chinese carburetter and it’s still doing the same but running, a whole lot better but still not not running right should I just buy? Another Chinese carburetter Maybe I got junk one PM me if you can
I’m having issues with a 1998 vn 800 classic. After about 25 miles at highway speeds It’s back fires and dies as of its run out of fuel. I’ve researched this issue and these bikes are known to have issues with the petcock and more specifically the “fuel screen” that sits atop the petcock in the fuel tank, as this is the only filter on the bike. I’ve ordered a replacement petcock because it was the only way to get a new fuel screen. I’m going to replace said parts, as well as add on an inline fuel filter between the petcock and carb, probably only on the “main” fuel line. I’m also going to replace the fuel lines and pull the carb apart so that I may free the jets/floats/needles of any build up, as I know they have not been taken apart in some years. My question to you would be, what else if anything should I look out for and what else may need repair om order to perform properly ?
Good video, no look at me, just the info. I dislike videos other way around. I subscribed, I'm a bit of a wrencher myself and I'm bad about forgetting something I already knew. Thanks for posting and we'll explained.
Omg,,, I just had my 1982 Yamaha IT175 out today. I’ve had the carb apart a number of times and cleaned but did not take notice of those small holes, you may have answered my “bogging” concern. Additionally, that tube I believe is restricted because I can not blow air through it. Thanks for the information, I will try your suggestions.
Question, I just bought a 1994 Kawasaki Bayou 220 and the starter sounds horrible. I replace the starter with a brand new one off of Amazon and the starter sounds exactly the same and it’s almost like a grinding sputtering noise and it sounds like the starters not getting enough power to crank the four wheeler. Any ideas?
I have a 1997 Honda shadow 600 I am a new rider and don’t know much about bikes yet. Bike starts up fine and runs well up until 40mph then it starts to sputter and not accelerate past 50mph, the bike struggles to go any faster. I put sea foam in about 3 days ago, 50 miles and it still does the same thing.
On my o7 Yamaha golf cart I pulled the carb to clean it... just regular maintenance now it won’t run without the choke on ive sprayed around the carb for vacuum leaks and it don’t have any the only thing I could not get out was the emulsion tube under or I guess above the main jet
I have a taotao 125cc Dirtbike. The carb it doesn’t run great with unless it’s in higher rpm. Whenever it is idling I have to feather the throttle to build the rpm before going. If I just hit the throttle from idle it bogs down and dies. It’s super annoying to ride because of this. Also the piston was on wrong with the intake and exhaust sides flipped since I fixed that it does run better but still is the same bogging problem. I’ve adjusted the carb so many times but to adjust the air fuel screw I have to take it off and it’s annoying taking off over and over
thanks i cleaned the pilot jet and it was clogged now the bike runs perfect. the carb is a new mikuni vm-32 the jet side holes were clear, but the very tiny center hole was clogged.
hello friend, what's the first thing to check if fuel economy is not what it used to be? can you enumerate the things I should check starting from the simplest? thank you very much
Well done 👍 But please my I say something Carburetors, engines do not suck air or fuel. Atmospheric pressure does the work, ie at sea level it is 1 bar = 14.7 LBS =Atmospheric pressure. I understand it's easier to explain that an engine sucks but it is Atmospheric pressure that pushes the air into the carburetor and fuel into the conbustion chamber as the piston goes down the stroke. Anyway I am positive that you have helped many a person 👍👍
In the bowl, should the idle jet be below the fuel level....in the fuel. No float level specs, No name carb. Not a single marking on carb. Thanks in advance
Ok so here’s one for you that’s stumping me and Ezgo techs. I have a Ezgo gas cart with a Fj400D Kawasaki motor. It’s a single cylinder 13.5 hp motor and the issue I’m having is it runs well on level ground but when under load on incline the engine will begin to sputter and lose power to the point that I have to stop and put it in neutral and rev the engine then it will go up as long as I don’t give it full throttle. I’ve change the carb thinking it was the main jet that can’t be removed for cleaning or replacement btw and that wasn’t the problem. It was then recommended that I check the valves for adjustment and neither were way out but adjusted them to within spec and that didn’t help. The impulse fuel pump seems to pump well and provide adequate flow with the outflow hose to the carb disconnected and held over a receptacle while turning over the engine but this is on level ground. I’ve checked the spark quality of the plug and it appears ok so I don’t think it’s a coil pack issue but I’ve honestly run out of things to check. Again on level ground the engine runs well so I don’t think it’s a compression or a governor issue but honestly I’M STUMPED! Look forward to you opinion and hope to hear back soon,,,thanks.
I've got a 1962 Ford 3000 tractor with a Holley R3655A carb. I have removed it and am in the process of cleaning and installing a kit. However I can not get the plunger to come out of the little tower it is in. I've had it soaking in carb cleaner for days and it will not pull out. Do you have any tricks for that before I attempt to drill it out?
I have a 1976 Sachs engine, Sparta buddy moped, 49cc. I pulled the old carb apart and the slide was ready to breath in half. I got a new keign carb and installed it. The moped starts fine, pulls hard, but breaks up at full throttle? Any suggestions... Thank you.
Hi . Thomas thank you for the info, i have an issue with 2006 ktm 50sx with stock carb and jet Dellorto carb brand. cleaned carb. as you said. 4,x. it boggs down at full throttle bike on stand. 60/1 fuel ratio. im in california 40 miinutes inland from beack. so u get idea on elevation. i appreciate ur help
Awesome video! Iam having problems with my yamaha wolverine and it's spitting and sputtering like it's starving for fuel, i bought this bike brand new and this is the first problem I've ever had with it.
Is it normal for the carb floats to be stuck in the bowl? Is this the design? Never seen that before. I have a 1982 yz125j that keeps flooding the cylinder and plug. Can you make a video on that cause and fix?
Got a 2006 883 sportster. Would cut out on low speed crack pop ....everything they are known for. CV carb. I assumed pilot was too lean from factory (42) so I went thru process after complete cleaning of carb, replacing accelerator pump diaphragm and orings, gasket, of trying multiple new bigger pilots. 45, 46, 48. No change. I got a new 42 pilot, put it in. Problem now is upon throttling, it bogs n dies. If I stay off throttle itll idle all day, but soon as throttle is given, it bogs. Tried adjusting air mix, 2.5 turns out from lightly seated and 1/8th turn in from there. Gradually closing but No change. Bike has drag pipes. No baffles ran before that way just would cut out under 3000 rpms so I set out to fix problem, lol , now I can't use throttle at all it dies. I've adjusted idle as well with no luck. Black sooty smoke out pipes upon throttling, or it spits from carb airbox side of throat. Plugs fouling bad. Changed plugs, put bike back stock, 42 pilot, 175 main...float been adjusted by spec...idk what else to try. Starts without choke ez. Soon as you throttle it it cuts out bogs n dies...all this just to try to stop the low speed popping n cracking...😎. Guess I should have left it alone but I was trying to improve it. With a bigger pilot. But that failed. I believe its overly rich...from the black smoke out pipes...and fouling of plugs. About the only thing I haven't tried is shimming the needle, which I understand only richins mix so I have not done that...any ideas? Bike only has 22000 miles on it. Screaming eagle stage 1 breather....drag pipes, everything, stock....rgm883@gmail.com. appreciate any ideas. Float valve is working, accelerator pump works, no tears or pin holes in slide diaphragm....all channels blown out with light psi compressed air after complete rebuild and clean....rebuilt completely totally dry n clean....I'm lost...help? I do my own wrenching, dealerships take you to the bank even when it's a 20$ deal they take you for 300$ this has to be something simple....emulsion tube is stock, emulsion tube jet is installed correctly. ...idk...thx for suggestions...my email is above.
Me and my dad are working on a clients Yamaha TT-r230. He had let it sit for number of years. We had put a lot of new parts on it and still can’t get low rpm’s. Starts and idles perfect and all the power at top end. Just no low end power just stutters and wants to stall. We flushed the tank servile times. We all so put a new pepcock, fuel line, carburetor and battery on it. We have tried tuning the low end jet and nothing makes a difference but if we pull the choke 1/8 the way out. It will run like a dream. Can any one help us and shed some light for us please? Thank your guys.
Great video - kicked it - straight to the point. Any thoughts on why fine gas vapor is blowing out through the air filter area on a Kohler Command Pro CV25 ? I pulled off air filter today and noticed a nice pressurized flow of gas vapor flying out of carburetor up through air filter area.
Great video , going to try it on my granddaughters youth snowmobile . One question though . How tight do you make those screws when you put them back in ?? Thanks again Greg
I have a skidoo that dumps fuel out the side tubes on the one side but how do you take the plastic pieces out of the side i broke one of the hose fittings off its all plastic one on each side
I've done all that can you let me know we're my mixture needle needs to be? The carb needle fell and I put the e clip on but can't find the right mixture with the neddle
I have a 04 kfx 50 quad I just got done cleaning it all out had a lot of build up in the carb white residue . I put it all back together but it just doesn’t throttle up quick almost like bogging out and not reaching full throttle what could it be
Question for, Im helping a friend with a polaris 500 predator carburetor issue, the initial complaint was only start and run on choke, would not accelerate but stumble flat out upon trying to increase rpm. He brought the carburetor to me, I opened it up found a plugged main jet and slightly plugged pilot jet / emulsion tube, all clean now and reinstalled, now it will start on choke and idle off of choke but as soon as you try to accelerate it stumbles flat , the diaphragm slide does move up but kind of bounces as it stumbles to rev up... What is going on here, no vacuum leaks on the intake boot either...
Makes perfect sense. But why would my gy6 motor be running very hot. After a needle cleaning in the carb and valve adjustment? Please help me. I can't afford to have my engine seize!🙏🙏 i need it for work!!please help me out???!!🙏🙏🙏🙏
i have a 32mm cvk carb. idles great. once i crack throttle, no power and just popping. carb is clean. what would u suggest. bike is a 232cc 2 valve powered taida gy6. if that matters. 600 above sea lv
Great Stuff!! On my intek motor of my lawntractor, I will have my throttle down at idle and in seconds it will rev up and will keep revving even higher, to knock it back down before i blow the engine , i step on the gas and will go back to normal . when i am driving it stays normal but when i stop and leave it idle it will do it again. Would like your comment on what you think is going on .
The idle circuit is too lean. Turning the fuel screw clockwise will richen the idle. Counter-clockwise will do the opposite. If it has an air screw, they do the opposite, clockwise will lean it out. Hope this helps.
I have a 2008 Suzuki DRZ 125 and I can usually kick it over. Though when I turn the throttle it does not return to idle but it keeps going up or staying if what you just turned the throttle could you help me of what is going on?
After changing carburetor and air cleaner filter on my 1996 Polaris sportsman 500, I have a cold natured carburetor but runs great after about three minutes of warm up but every time I go in reverse it conks out. every single time no matter how slowly or how fast you reverse it comes out works great in forward makes no sense. What could be the problem? Mike Griffin Georgia
I have a 2000 Polaris sportsman 400 2 stroke had the atv for about year I drive here and there on a dirt road I live on just recently the bike bike is actually up it will start up just fine no issues there but once I start driving it I could drive it 50 kms and it will work just fine,I just started bogging out and stalling on me I leave it sit for 15 to 20 minutes and starts right up and works fine just wondering if it may need a carburetor clean and new spark plug or new cdi
I have a 01 ds650 Bombardier that's having bogging issues now. Took it riding not to long ago and ran fine but its been sitting for about 1 month and again bogging.
I have a problem with the kawasaki klf250 carburetor dismantled, cleaned, set according to the instructions, fires ok, drives ok, the problem shoots from the exhaust when releasing the gas, the candle has a metal color
I have to give mine half throttle to start. The auto choke works fine, so I guessing its the slide. I have no filter on it,the filter I had on it got destroy by the carburetor when I buy the carb new, haven't put back one yet
Love the fact you'll make a video for anyone that has a problem with something
The other week 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
The other week 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
yessir
Thank you, Thomas. Clear and well explained. My Rancher stumbles , sputters when under load (pushing snow up a hill).
Did you Clean yours like that? Did it work? Mines doing the same thing.
i have the same issue with my recently purchased kawasaki brute force 750 atv. Seller told me it ran great and had the carb cleaned and re jetted by a local shop just before he put the bike in storage for the winter season. When i showed up to buy it, it spitted and sputtered like crazy and would not stay running. After i rode it around a little bit i raised the choke level up about 15% and it seemed to run fine then...the idle was great and no more sputtering or spitting. Seller was shocked and told me it ran perfectly before he stored it for the winter. I went ahead and bought it anyways knowing it was fixable no matter what and he gave me a killer price on it so I was still stoked to buy it. I so far am just riding it with the choke partially open and it runs fine so far that way at least.
colourtune plugs are handy as you can check the color of the flame which should be Bunsen blue after the choke is pulled in. there is a mixture screw under the carb usually which you can screw out a turn to get more fuel...might be worth a try. As long as the jets are the correct ones and the float heights are correct then with a clean carb the bike should run well.
That's a man who knows what he's saying. Thank you
i don't think i've ever seen a pair of old school man hands like this in about 20 years. cuddos to you sir you use the body god gave ya.
I love how that’s the first video I watch to learn how to diagnose my issue, and that I feel like it’s solved
Thanks for watching!
This was probrably one of the best videos about small carbs thank you so much I dont think Anyone could have explained that any better video was straight to the point.. Ive been struggling with a small carb. First it was leaking out the over flow then it was backfiring thru the air intake now its bogging down with throttle doesnt die starts right up but bogs way down driving me crazy but im pretty sure after dozens of videos this is the video i needed to see. Will let you know thanks again
Just got a 05 Yamaha bruin 350 in excellent condition. After about two weeks of riding, it started sputtering and bogging out when I give it gas. Took carb apart to clean and it was like brand new inside, but I cleaned anyway and replaced sparkplug. Put carb back on and same problem. If I slowly give it gas it'll slowly pick up rpms and fly but as soon as I decrease gas and begin to increase again I get the same sputtering like it's starving for gas or getting to much. Like I said, this machine hasn't been taken care of very well and has less than 1000 miles. It also will backfire a little bit every once in a while after I get off gas at high speeds. Need help
I have the same condition on a small ct 200
Same problem here on the same quad, did you get it working and what did you do?
Did you ever find out what the problem was
Figure out the problem?
Being a 2 stroke the crankshaft seals may have dried out over time and is coursing an air leak around the crank.
Check all gaskets and crankshaft seals as you don't need to hole a piston with a lean fuel air mixture.
Take care and good luck 👍
This is indeed a brilliant explanation ever to my Yamaha AG 200. By looking at this vedeo I've also checked and cleaned the main horse's nipple from the fuel tank to the cab which was being blocked by so many dirts. 2 Problems that were solved are engine dies when at low RPM or when at higher RPM, and hard starts again at about 3 minutes. ❤❤
Thank you!
Having a heck of a time with my 125cc sputtering and definitely not idling.
Always has run great previously.
I cleaned out the carb but will re-check these side ports.
I’ll let you know if it works!
Thank you!!! I am a complete noob and just started getting into ATV’s last summer. I am currently on my pulling carb for the 7/8 time done yesterday. the same carburetor in and out with out luck
This video may be my saving grace
What kind of atv are you working on? And did you try this yet? Having problems with a 2004 predator 500 stalls at idle. I’m going to try and pull the carburetor this weekend.
im going to try this today. i have an old 1991 honda 300 fourtrax that seems to carbon plugs almost instantly. the bike idles great and can putt around in SL no problem, but as soon as your on the throttle to get through your gears, its as if the mid range power is completely gone it struggles to accelerate, and it starts to come back in to normal in the high end RPM. its causing jerky acceleration through gears and when finding your cruising speed. ive taken apart the carb and cleaned the jets, along with replaced the air and oil filters, plug and oil. somewhat fixes the problem but reverts back (my guess once the plug fouls) im starting to think the float may need to be adjusted now, thanks for the new lead!
im gonna that, maybe tonight cuz im so eager on getting my moped running good thank you.
It felt like a buddy was helping me understand carbs better. Thank you.
Thank you for watching! Happy to hear!
Great content. I have a 82 cb650 cylinder 4 sputters and backfires. I forgot to remove and clean the idle jets. Did everything else.
Thanks for "very well explained" instructions for repairing an engine that only runs on 1/2 choke.
Is not likely I personally will attempt this, but you are a great instructor!
Clear, concise explanation. Thank you for the insight.
Man runs perfect in every gear when you put it in reverse it don't have no power it just spits and sputters will not go backwards I also bought a brand spanking new carburetor and put it on it and it run perfect but like I said when you put it in reverse it just spits its better it won't go backwards unless you're on flat ground
Really liked this video. Thanks Thomas! I'm new to working on small motors and eager to learn. Learned alot. Thank you. This is the first of your videos. I've subscribed and will be checking more of your videos. I'm here because, guess what? My new to me, used ATV, is having carb issues. So again, thanks
Best explanation yet. 2 out of four are doing this. I'm on it. Thanks. The 99 honda 300, never a problem. The rubicon 472, both have this issue. Was puzzling. Will follow.
To the point and exactly what I needed. Thank you!
You make a whole lotta sense bro! I'm having the same sputtering symptoms, only I have a Harley 2009 cvo fatbob with electronic fuel injection and what you just explained with the example with a carburetor is the same in nature, "Thanks big guy and be safe!
Thanks man. Just bought my first carberated bike and want to learn as much as i can about it so i can wrench on it myself. It spits occasionally, its about 40 degrees out here in colorado, and it apears to only do it when choke is all the way in... so it may just need to be dyno tuned... apparently again... not sure if its tuned for this elevation. Assumed it was and that may be a mistake as i should have asked and the dealership may have shipped it up from elsewhere.
Learned lots from this. Just got my first dirt bike, thanks tons!
Be carefull but not too much ! 🤘😎
Straight to the point you didn't f****** talk no b******* in the beginning like everyone else.... Need more videos like yours Explaining something's
Those are some working hands if I ever saw some. Keep up the good work.
Straight to the point no nonsense talking.
I took apart my carburetor yesterday and when putting it back together I found a gold screw and didn’t know where it belonged 🤦♂️ now I know 😂. Gotta take back apart
I could not figure it out. My new motorcycle only has 200 miles on it. Came with a carburetor I have to work to get the screws off the bowl. No biggie. Yet it puzzled my on what it was doing. Did not make sense. Now it does. So, I'm going to do exactly what you suggest. I will see. If works, you just saved me money and a big headache. Thanks for your help.
Great video. I succeeded in rebuilding both carbs on my 1997 Polaris 500 snowmobile thanks to this video. Reassembled carbs on machine and fired it up. The mag cylinder is not drawing in the fuel, thus the mag cylinder is not firing. Suggestions?
Thanks for the video. I have a mercruiser 3.0 litre. I was having some bogging issues under load. I changed the fuel filter at the base of the engine, the filter just inside the carb where the fuel line attaches. Cleaned out the clear tube running from the carb back down to the fuel filter at the base of the engine. I put in new spark plugs gapped to .030. Now the boat is running better, the idle is still a little rough but the main issue is after I've been at full throttle for a few minutes I begin to hear a popping sound. I back the throttle down and the popping goes away but then at no wake speed I hear a ticking sound. I've run three cans of Seafoam through 15 gallons of gas so far. After shutting down the engine for a half hour or more the boat seems to work fine until full throttle results in popping again. Thanks for your thoughts!
Just a suggestion but try adjusting the valves. Even if that's not the problem it is always nice to rule valve adjustment out. The ticking could be a loose rocker arm and this will usually cause a hard starting issue or long crank times before starting.
@@jessesmith1181 Thanks for the idea. I am new to working on my boat this season. The boat usually starts right up. Are the things you've suggested something to do after taking the boat out after the season is over? I keep the boat on a Shore Station lift with a canopy. My only concern is that I wouldn't have the boat put back together before 9/15 when I plan to take her out for the season. Will I do damage to the boat if I continue to run her conservatively until the end of the season? Thanks!
Not sure about damage, it really depends on how far out of adjustment the valves are but if you are hearing them tapping or ticking one of them could be pretty far out. There is a 15 minute ish video on you tube just for the mercruiser 3.0valve adjustment. So you know exactly what you are in for labor wise
The popping you are describing is it a backfire through the carburetor or out the exhaust possibly? Trying to figure out what u mean when u say popping at full throttle
@@jessesmith1181 The ticking becomes un-audible after about 3-5 minutes while running at no wake. However the cycle repeats itself (popping then ticking) if I go to wot after the ticking stops.
Fantastic man I think you've just reminded me to clean the little holes on the jets I so got lazy and just changed the jets didn't bother to look in the little holes thanks for real man , peace
That’s crazy I was looking at buying a 2008Q link 700 front runner side-by-side with a sputtering issue in the first video. I find covers my ATVs issues I have a 400 Polaris and I’ve been struggling with the sputtering issue so now that took care of that problem.
Iva a Kawasaki KLF 300 that won’t start !! It was originally just getting slower and slower to start, so I stripped carb and replaced all needles and jets etc , I found someone before me at left in too many rubber rings and washer on pilot air screw jet , but now after re-assemble it won’t fire at all ?? Just seems to back fire through carb a little bit , I’ve good fuel and I have spark , I’ve tried spraying into carb while cranking to see but still no fire ????
Good video. I have been burned on that a few times where i didn't or couldn't get the emulsion tube out and the engine would still run poorly
similar issue with my royal Enfield 350cc. Uses a 29mm carb, the bike tends to start dying when it's running with load at a constant throttle, say through the mid-range RPMs (2000- 3500 rpm), but post that 3500 rpm till the redline at 5500 it works fine when throttle position is constant there.
Hey man. Love your video my mate has 150cc pitbike. He had no air filter. I make him get air filter. Bike runs bad with air filter. We clean side of jets and all carb. Bike still runs OK when take off air filter. I have try to adjust air fuel mix screw but it is always lumpy in the top end and try’s stalling
I have a 98 yz250 2 stroke. Previous owner must have hit something very hard because the front rim was so bent that when moving it, the tire would rub the front shocks. I'm having a similar issue. But mine is occurring as I'm hitting the powerband. The bike will act like it's starving for fuel and after a few quick twists of the throttle it'll go back to full power - resulting in the front wheel coming off the ground. I'm going to pull the carb off this weekend and give it a good cleaning. Fingers crossed that I find some green goo. Otherwise I might be looking towards checking out the power valve. I'm new to 2 stroke dirt bikes/ bikes in general. I purchased it 2 months ago and have slowly been replacing parts. I'm a diesel mechanic and love tinkering with small engines. I'm open to any suggestions.
Best video out there explaining the float awesome job Man
That looks a whole lot like the Mikuni VM38 on my '77 PE250. Thanks for sharing
Good short. But very informative video. Straight to the point ☝️. Thanks.
I'm getting a sputtering at low revs, low speeds. Usually at minimal throttle use. Full throttle and regular riding is fine. Model is a VZ800 (M800) 2011 Suzuki Intruder. M50 in the states. Here's the thing....fuel injected rather than carbs
Like the video and so correct, I have a polaris Razor that was cleaned and I took the entire thing apart. I started the engine and adjusted the air fuel screw along with the idle screw. The engine idles but will not accelerate without popping and spitting. I have adjusted the needle through every setting, please help
I have a situation that's very confusing, I took a ride into a patch of woods on my 2017 Polaris 450 HO for maybe thirty minutes-there was no path so I was running over trees big and small-I made it out of the woods but at the treeline, my engine started running rough, sputtering, backfiring. Luckily, I made it back home at a crawl while cranking the throttle back and forth, I had a new plug -OEM- so I switched it out- never did see the carb to see if I pulled anything loose, the plug didn't help much. I lifted the front end up so I could check out the bottom side, saw nothing pulled loose or hanging. That's my situation and any help would be appreciated
I have a Farmall 100 tractor that fires up with no problem. Then it starts sputtering and puffing smoke out the exhaust like it's flooding or choking. After doing this for several minutes, the engine will finally die. But, I can pull the starter and it will immediately fire back up with no hesitation before repeating the same issues as before. When it is sputtering, the rod leading from the carburetor will move back and forth instead of staying stationary like you would expect. Do you have any ideas as to what may be the cause of my issues? I inherited the tractor from my late grandfather and have some mechanical experience, but am in no way a professional. Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
Problem now
This video helped me get my 4wheeler running like new thank you so much
Ive got a generac 3100 pressure washers runs great carb cover off . put the cover on spitts and shutters,
SUBSTANTIAL Sir Thomas Brian
Thanks 👍 as always enjoy
Sir Thomas Brian
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I have a 2004 Can-Am we had to clean the gas tank and all that out. I was having trouble with the original carburetor. We think we cleaned it out properly but would not work. It was getting too much gas so I bought a Chinese carburetter and it’s still doing the same but running, a whole lot better but still not not running right should I just buy? Another Chinese carburetter Maybe I got junk one PM me if you can
Great info here Tom, and Thank you for not having any annoying back ground music, Cheers
I’m having issues with a 1998 vn 800 classic. After about 25 miles at highway speeds It’s back fires and dies as of its run out of fuel. I’ve researched this issue and these bikes are known to have issues with the petcock and more specifically the “fuel screen” that sits atop the petcock in the fuel tank, as this is the only filter on the bike. I’ve ordered a replacement petcock because it was the only way to get a new fuel screen. I’m going to replace said parts, as well as add on an inline fuel filter between the petcock and carb, probably only on the “main” fuel line. I’m also going to replace the fuel lines and pull the carb apart so that I may free the jets/floats/needles of any build up, as I know they have not been taken apart in some years. My question to you would be, what else if anything should I look out for and what else may need repair om order to perform properly ?
Good video, no look at me, just the info. I dislike videos other way around. I subscribed, I'm a bit of a wrencher myself and I'm bad about forgetting something I already knew. Thanks for posting and we'll explained.
Omg,,, I just had my 1982 Yamaha IT175 out today. I’ve had the carb apart a number of times and cleaned but did not take notice of those small holes, you may have answered my “bogging” concern. Additionally, that tube I believe is restricted because I can not blow air through it. Thanks for the information, I will try your suggestions.
Question, I just bought a 1994 Kawasaki Bayou 220 and the starter sounds horrible. I replace the starter with a brand new one off of Amazon and the starter sounds exactly the same and it’s almost like a grinding sputtering noise and it sounds like the starters not getting enough power to crank the four wheeler. Any ideas?
I have a 1997 Honda shadow 600 I am a new rider and don’t know much about bikes yet. Bike starts up fine and runs well up until 40mph then it starts to sputter and not accelerate past 50mph, the bike struggles to go any faster. I put sea foam in about 3 days ago, 50 miles and it still does the same thing.
My gas golf cart only wants to run when the choke is pulled out. What can I do to fix this. Thanks for your help.
This is the pilot jet in the carb bowl. Remove clean and replace.
that is what i like straight to the point no bull shit .
On my o7 Yamaha golf cart I pulled the carb to clean it... just regular maintenance now it won’t run without the choke on ive sprayed around the carb for vacuum leaks and it don’t have any the only thing I could not get out was the emulsion tube under or I guess above the main jet
Very informative video. Me and my son are going to do that tomorrow. But we have a mini bike
I have a taotao 125cc Dirtbike. The carb it doesn’t run great with unless it’s in higher rpm. Whenever it is idling I have to feather the throttle to build the rpm before going. If I just hit the throttle from idle it bogs down and dies. It’s super annoying to ride because of this. Also the piston was on wrong with the intake and exhaust sides flipped since I fixed that it does run better but still is the same bogging problem. I’ve adjusted the carb so many times but to adjust the air fuel screw I have to take it off and it’s annoying taking off over and over
thanks i cleaned the pilot jet and it was clogged now the bike runs perfect. the carb is a new mikuni vm-32 the jet side holes were clear, but the very tiny center hole was clogged.
hello friend, what's the first thing to check if fuel economy is not what it used to be? can you enumerate the things I should check starting from the simplest? thank you very much
Well done 👍
But please my I say something
Carburetors, engines do not suck air or fuel.
Atmospheric pressure does the work, ie at sea level it is
1 bar = 14.7 LBS =Atmospheric pressure.
I understand it's easier to explain that an engine sucks but it is Atmospheric pressure that pushes the air into the carburetor and fuel into the conbustion chamber as the piston goes down the stroke.
Anyway I am positive that you have helped many a person 👍👍
How do you get the Main jet tube out or imultion tube that is the needle goes in & out of.. thank u.
Thanks for the video it help me out and solved the problem I was have with my Yamaha atv.
ur such a genuine guy. i love it. keep doing u
In the bowl, should the idle jet be below the fuel level....in the fuel.
No float level specs,
No name carb.
Not a single marking on carb.
Thanks in advance
Does apply to trucks too, I have no issues until it changes gears and once it passes it's fine?
Ok so here’s one for you that’s stumping me and Ezgo techs. I have a Ezgo gas cart with a Fj400D Kawasaki motor. It’s a single cylinder 13.5 hp motor and the issue I’m having is it runs well on level ground but when under load on incline the engine will begin to sputter and lose power to the point that I have to stop and put it in neutral and rev the engine then it will go up as long as I don’t give it full throttle. I’ve change the carb thinking it was the main jet that can’t be removed for cleaning or replacement btw and that wasn’t the problem. It was then recommended that I check the valves for adjustment and neither were way out but adjusted them to within spec and that didn’t help. The impulse fuel pump seems to pump well and provide adequate flow with the outflow hose to the carb disconnected and held over a receptacle while turning over the engine but this is on level ground. I’ve checked the spark quality of the plug and it appears ok so I don’t think it’s a coil pack issue but I’ve honestly run out of things to check. Again on level ground the engine runs well so I don’t think it’s a compression or a governor issue but honestly I’M STUMPED! Look forward to you opinion and hope to hear back soon,,,thanks.
Float level on carb
I've got a 1962 Ford 3000 tractor with a Holley R3655A carb. I have removed it and am in the process of cleaning and installing a kit. However I can not get the plunger to come out of the little tower it is in. I've had it soaking in carb cleaner for days and it will not pull out. Do you have any tricks for that before I attempt to drill it out?
Thanks for the info… I have a riding mower that the carburetor is spitting out gas & I believe oil/ it’s some type of black liquid…. Any thoughts?
I have a 1976 Sachs engine, Sparta buddy moped, 49cc. I pulled the old carb apart and the slide was ready to breath in half. I got a new keign carb and installed it. The moped starts fine, pulls hard, but breaks up at full throttle? Any suggestions...
Thank you.
Hi . Thomas thank you for the info, i have an issue with 2006 ktm 50sx with stock carb and jet Dellorto carb brand. cleaned carb. as you said. 4,x. it boggs down at full throttle bike on stand. 60/1 fuel ratio. im in california 40 miinutes inland from beack. so u get idea on elevation. i appreciate ur help
Awesome video! Iam having problems with my yamaha wolverine and it's spitting and sputtering like it's starving for fuel, i bought this bike brand new and this is the first problem I've ever had with it.
I have a wolverine doing the same thing
@@deannaoxendine1202 change your spark plug
Is it normal for the carb floats to be stuck in the bowl? Is this the design? Never seen that before. I have a 1982 yz125j that keeps flooding the cylinder and plug. Can you make a video on that cause and fix?
Got a 2006 883 sportster. Would cut out on low speed crack pop ....everything they are known for. CV carb. I assumed pilot was too lean from factory (42) so I went thru process after complete cleaning of carb, replacing accelerator pump diaphragm and orings, gasket, of trying multiple new bigger pilots. 45, 46, 48. No change. I got a new 42 pilot, put it in. Problem now is upon throttling, it bogs n dies. If I stay off throttle itll idle all day, but soon as throttle is given, it bogs. Tried adjusting air mix, 2.5 turns out from lightly seated and 1/8th turn in from there. Gradually closing but No change. Bike has drag pipes. No baffles ran before that way just would cut out under 3000 rpms so I set out to fix problem, lol , now I can't use throttle at all it dies. I've adjusted idle as well with no luck. Black sooty smoke out pipes upon throttling, or it spits from carb airbox side of throat. Plugs fouling bad. Changed plugs, put bike back stock, 42 pilot, 175 main...float been adjusted by spec...idk what else to try. Starts without choke ez. Soon as you throttle it it cuts out bogs n dies...all this just to try to stop the low speed popping n cracking...😎. Guess I should have left it alone but I was trying to improve it. With a bigger pilot. But that failed. I believe its overly rich...from the black smoke out pipes...and fouling of plugs. About the only thing I haven't tried is shimming the needle, which I understand only richins mix so I have not done that...any ideas? Bike only has 22000 miles on it. Screaming eagle stage 1 breather....drag pipes, everything, stock....rgm883@gmail.com. appreciate any ideas. Float valve is working, accelerator pump works, no tears or pin holes in slide diaphragm....all channels blown out with light psi compressed air after complete rebuild and clean....rebuilt completely totally dry n clean....I'm lost...help? I do my own wrenching, dealerships take you to the bank even when it's a 20$ deal they take you for 300$ this has to be something simple....emulsion tube is stock, emulsion tube jet is installed correctly. ...idk...thx for suggestions...my email is above.
I’m gonna try this tonight or tomorrow after work. My bike just started sputtering a couple days ago.
Me and my dad are working on a clients Yamaha TT-r230. He had let it sit for number of years. We had put a lot of new parts on it and still can’t get low rpm’s. Starts and idles perfect and all the power at top end. Just no low end power just stutters and wants to stall. We flushed the tank servile times. We all so put a new pepcock, fuel line, carburetor and battery on it. We have tried tuning the low end jet and nothing makes a difference but if we pull the choke 1/8 the way out. It will run like a dream. Can any one help us and shed some light for us please? Thank your guys.
Great video. Do you have a video on timing? 1998 polaris explorer 300?
Great video - kicked it - straight to the point. Any thoughts on why fine gas vapor is blowing out through the air filter area on a Kohler Command Pro CV25 ? I pulled off air filter today and noticed a nice pressurized flow of gas vapor flying out of carburetor up through air filter area.
That's what happens with no air filter...
I was looking at yfm stuff, found some cringe and i found this, thank you for saving my eyeballs 👍
Great video , going to try it on my granddaughters youth snowmobile . One question though . How tight do you make those screws when you put them back in ?? Thanks again Greg
I have a skidoo that dumps fuel out the side tubes on the one side but how do you take the plastic pieces out of the side i broke one of the hose fittings off its all plastic one on each side
I've done all that can you let me know we're my mixture needle needs to be? The carb needle fell and I put the e clip on but can't find the right mixture with the neddle
I have a 04 kfx 50 quad I just got done cleaning it all out had a lot of build up in the carb white residue . I put it all back together but it just doesn’t throttle up quick almost like bogging out and not reaching full throttle what could it be
Got it done and back together. It worked. Thanks again.
Question for, Im helping a friend with a polaris 500 predator carburetor issue, the initial complaint was only start and run on choke, would not accelerate but stumble flat out upon trying to increase rpm. He brought the carburetor to me, I opened it up found a plugged main jet and slightly plugged pilot jet / emulsion tube, all clean now and reinstalled, now it will start on choke and idle off of choke but as soon as you try to accelerate it stumbles flat , the diaphragm slide does move up but kind of bounces as it stumbles to rev up... What is going on here, no vacuum leaks on the intake boot either...
Makes perfect sense. But why would my gy6 motor be running very hot. After a needle cleaning in the carb and valve adjustment? Please help me. I can't afford to have my engine seize!🙏🙏 i need it for work!!please help me out???!!🙏🙏🙏🙏
i have a 32mm cvk carb. idles great. once i crack throttle, no power and just popping. carb is clean. what would u suggest. bike is a 232cc 2 valve powered taida gy6. if that matters. 600 above sea lv
Great Stuff!! On my intek motor of my lawntractor, I will have my throttle down at idle and in seconds it will rev up and will keep revving even higher, to knock it back down before i blow the engine , i step on the gas and will go back to normal . when i am driving it stays normal but when i stop and leave it idle it will do it again. Would like your comment on what you think is going on .
The idle circuit is too lean. Turning the fuel screw clockwise will richen the idle. Counter-clockwise will do the opposite. If it has an air screw, they do the opposite, clockwise will lean it out. Hope this helps.
I have a 2008 Suzuki DRZ 125 and I can usually kick it over. Though when I turn the throttle it does not return to idle but it keeps going up or staying if what you just turned the throttle could you help me of what is going on?
After changing carburetor and air cleaner filter on my 1996 Polaris sportsman 500, I have a cold natured carburetor but runs great after about three minutes of warm up but every time I go in reverse it conks out. every single time no matter how slowly or how fast you reverse it comes out works great in forward makes no sense. What could be the problem?
Mike Griffin Georgia
Thank you you're a good teacher❤❤❤
I have a 2000 Polaris sportsman 400 2 stroke had the atv for about year I drive here and there on a dirt road I live on just recently the bike bike is actually up it will start up just fine no issues there but once I start driving it I could drive it 50 kms and it will work just fine,I just started bogging out and stalling on me I leave it sit for 15 to 20 minutes and starts right up and works fine just wondering if it may need a carburetor clean and new spark plug or new cdi
I have a 2008 Polaris Rubicon ATV, is this the problem with it sputtering when the gas is depressed
I have a 01 ds650 Bombardier that's having bogging issues now. Took it riding not to long ago and ran fine but its been sitting for about 1 month and again bogging.
I have a problem with the kawasaki klf250 carburetor dismantled, cleaned, set according to the instructions, fires ok, drives ok, the problem shoots from the exhaust when releasing the gas, the candle has a metal color
Would air be best to clean that little carb? If we dont have a air compressor what could we use?
How do you diagnosis Hanging idle on deceleration on a 400cc 2stroke ?
I have to give mine half throttle to start. The auto choke works fine, so I guessing its the slide. I have no filter on it,the filter I had on it got destroy by the carburetor when I buy the carb new, haven't put back one yet