Bought a second hand Chinese quad for $500aud, got it from a diesel mechanic, he told me it had some sort of ignition problem and he started it by bridging the positive and negative, kinda a hot wire job, he told me he had no idea why or how, I got a new starter relay, and fixed. He also put a new pz30 on it and told me he could not get it to run right, used this video and moved the small clip down 1 notch, and runs like new now! So much for the sellers mechanical skills!
Excellent video! I’d note that for diagnostic purposes, the pilot jet is responsible for off-idle performance, needle/needle jet addresses mid-range performance, at wide open throttle it’s all main jet. I’ve found that Japanese OE needles are more accurately made than typical aftermarket versions so I usually just scotch-brute the OE needle and ignore the one furnished in rebuild kits. To adjust the needle height when there is only one groove for the e-clip I’ve had success by adding one or more washers (thanks ace hardware) below the clip to raise the needle richening the midrange mixture-same result as achieved in the video by moving the e-clip to a lower groove. Keep up the good work Redneck!
Subscribed, this was really really helpful. Going to try what I've taken from this video to do the final tweaks on my 250 quad. I'll report back with my results! :D
We had the same experience with my motorcycle, I thought getting backfires are caused by a rich mixture so for the past 2 weeks I've been trying to experiment to add more air, but the backfires are getting worse so I tried to add more fuel, and now my motorcycle is running great and it has no backfires.
About non-adjustable needles, you can adjust them richer with 0.5mm shim discs. Though you cannot go leaner that way if your problem is too rich condition. Alternatively there are tuning kits from Dynojet to some carbs models and they may contain a new adjustable needle for carbs that are not adjustable by default.
People need to start sharing this masterpiece like on their FB page or any wheeler FB group Twitter etc I definitely know I’ll be doing that!! I ❤️ this RUclipsr this video just Verified confirmed proven to my Hubby I was right once again. My 02 Honda Foreman 450 S that is snorkeled & fighting trying to find & stop a small exhaust leak has been running like Caca forever that the jets probably need to be tweet a bit since everything else that’s been tried failed 🤪🤪
Really good video right here! I have a 2005 raptor 660 that backfires a lot on decel and only will idle with the choke on until it is fully warmed up. It also kind of breaks up when giving it gas until after 1/4 throttle. Stock intake and exhaust too
@@d21dusty72 nope, i replaced the piston and rings because it was low on compression. Thats fixed my backfire issue but I still need to use the choke until it warms up. Probably needs bigger pilot jets
Enjoyed watching the vid. Hoping you can help me out. I have 2004 Yamaha TT600. Bought a few months ago and since have been doing a few jobs= leaky valves so ground them in, cleaned carbs, tappets, but also fitted a new muffler which has really opened up the motor, sounds great, air filter is standard, ticks over fine, nice and slow but when you rev up it pops like hell on overrun. Should i lower clip on left hand carb to raise needle but what about right hand carb? Also what jets may need replacing in both carbs? Hope you can help, thanks
What about running full throttle, then letting off completely say to shift or stop? Poping constantly after, it's fine at idle fine with the throttle, but now when decelerating especially completely, it pops. I figure running rich but the fuel metering screw is all the way in ( bought a replacement carb). If I back out and play with the idle screw to bring down the idle it gets worse with the popping.
I like your explanation and content it's easy to follow along and well explained. I'm having problems with mine backfiring on deceleration and sometimes while I'm in first gear on constant throttle there's a slight hiccup. However it seems to be running a little warmer but after a long ride where I could open her up it returned to normal but something's not right. Here's my question, I running a XR650R carb on a XR650L bike long story short, was recommended by my mechanic who built bike but pandemic hit closed doors. I was stuck without a mechanic and having carb issues so I googled it but could not find it. So, the fuel mixture screw was not accessible and everytime I tried to question him about the carb he would always say "nothing was wrong with it". But I kept trying to tell him how did he access the fuel mixture screw because there's no way to adjust. So have you or how do you tune a carb that does not have a fuel/air mixture screw?
There's a screw. Or mess with the top of carb to adjust. When the cap is off the top there is a clip.. Might have to move down. I have to do the same on a can am ds250 ATV actually
What if I have no popping on deceleration, everything seems to run great when smooth throttle is applied however if I crack the throttle open in a corner hard or fast it falls flat like it wants to die. Not sure if I should adjust the needle clip or fuel air mixture but when I do it doesn’t really help the situation unless it’s idling high and almost about a half turn out on the air screw…
I have a Honda VTR 1000 superhawk I just purchased it runs perfect but it does pop quite a bit when you back off the throttle I don't know if it's normal for those v-twins or not any information greatly appreciated is it typical?
Hi. I have a 300 king quad. I have a 140 MJ and it runs great but it should be a 120. Should I change it back? Also, I'd like it to start easier. It always starts, but sometimes I have to crank and crank. Any hints on where to look first? Pilot or fuel screw?
One quick question. By watching the video, I know I'm lean due to the new straight pipe. What if I'm getting popping when I release the throttle? And how do I know what size the main jet is on my bike? Thank you
I have the same issue on my motorcycle. Except it was working fine until I had to fix a leak in the bowl and now it sounds like in the beginning of the video. I've cleaned it all of the jets and it seems like adjusting the idle mixture screws barely changes anything. Could it be some internal circuit that's clogged? Except it was running fine before so I'm not sure what it could be...
I have a 125cc 4 stroke yamaha xtz125 and its carburetor doesn't have the air mixture screw. My bike has the same prob with your quad. What should i do instead? Have checked the jet and the carb part
I have a gy6 scooter and i have changed carb coil cdi spark plug air filter vacuum hoses and problem persists engine sometimes stalls exhaust poping this only happens when hot. When engine is cold it runs fine. Only thing i havent changed is the o ring on the intake manifold which is very flat hope that when i change it it will resolve the problem
I am having an issue with my brand new carb on my 250. The bike ran great altough a little slow with the stock carb but wirh the new carb power was greatly increased but my idle is a little inconsistent. It will drop off as usual but it will rev up 100rpm from time to time up and down slowly with the throttle closed. And if I pull hard on the throttle it will rev up but hesitate if I open the throttle too much it will simply bog down and die. I think I have it dialed in on the main jet but those 2 quirks are hunting me.. Any advice?
My friend just got a 125cc and when in first gear it's screaming soon as he sets off ready for second gear literally basically setting off in second any idea
Fantastic video thanks! My problem is the motor and carbs run great while going wide open, but then after like 5-10 seconds it starts not sputtering and sounds lean -- wondering if the fuel petcock is blocking proper flow?
Close the petcock. Disconnect the fuel hose from the carb. Put the hose into a container like a large bottle to catch the fuel. Open the petcock. Let it drain for however long you want and see if the fuel flow gets reduced. It's probably not the petcock, though. It takes more than 5-10 seconds for the bowl to empty of fuel.
My xr650r is back firing and popping like this ,but is also fouling plugs black and sooty One symptom ( back fire ) suggests lean Other ( plug foul ) suggests rich ?
I got two wolverine350s and they run like a top. Unfortunately both of them won't drive an inch. The axles and shafts on them are stripped out. From qhat I have read uts a very common issue with big bear and wolverines
What is that problem my atv same like sound popping also I cleaned carburetor still nothing but I m confused that my atv not running its shut off when choke on only when choke off its running what will be problem
Need help if anyone can help I replaced my carby for a bigger one than the small one I had on and bike runs mint without a airfilter but with one or even a small peice of foam makes the bike choke for air I've adjusted the needle for more airflow and also the screw near the airfilter on the outside the carb what would be the next step to help the airflow of the carby any help is much appreciated
So if it run worse when you put the choke on it means it's getting to much fuel, would that be right, I'm find at idle, just 1/2 to full is where I can't find the balance, it's spits and pops and most time cuts off after 10 secs of that unless I let off back to idle for it to recover, so glad your showing the sounds, most vids just tell you but don't show how it runs when jets are off, as well as which way there off at certain running conditions, tks
i have yamaha r3 i change exhaust to a full exhaust now its backfiring hehe my question is its still safe or do i need to remap the ecu? any damage in the future if i dont remap the ecu?
If anyone can help I have a moped I put on cone filter new cdi went up to a 115 main jet it runs great until I get to 50mph then it starts to pop any ideas?
Ok I got a question for y'all now 😅 my Yamaha Raptor started to sputter and pop and stall when I gave it gas after I was Wheeling it up the road for a bit and it wouldn't come out of it any ideas?
Авто/Мото
Videos about adjusting carbs normally last 30-60 minutes and by the end you feel angry, sad and confused. This dude absolutely nails it in 5 minutes.
Yep
Amin
RUclips algorithm needs to do it's work on this masterpiece. I'm just commenting to help give the video what it deserves
Same!!!
Sammmmmmeeee I’ll screen print this dude free shirts for sharing this heavy-hitting info
100%
Literally learned more about carb adjusting in this video than 3 hours of web research
Nailed it in 5 minutes. Shows he knows his stuff. THANK YOU FOR NOT WASTING OUR TIME! Chris (comment below) is so right.
This man is right to the point with accurate information. Quality video
Bought a second hand Chinese quad for $500aud, got it from a diesel mechanic, he told me it had some sort of ignition problem and he started it by bridging the
positive and negative, kinda a hot wire job, he told me he had no idea why or how, I got a new starter relay, and fixed. He also put a new pz30 on it and told me he could not get it to run right, used this video and moved the small clip down 1 notch, and runs like new now! So much for the sellers mechanical skills!
I'm glad you mentioned the aftermarket filter and exhaust...it was a lightbulb moment for me...
One of the best carburetor videos I have seen!! Awesome video and very helpful!!
This is probably the best and well explained video on RUclips on how to tune a carburetor in simplest words. Thanks for the video.
Excellent video! I’d note that for diagnostic purposes, the pilot jet is responsible for off-idle performance, needle/needle jet addresses mid-range performance, at wide open throttle it’s all main jet. I’ve found that Japanese OE needles are more accurately made than typical aftermarket versions so I usually just scotch-brute the OE needle and ignore the one furnished in rebuild kits. To adjust the needle height when there is only one groove for the e-clip I’ve had success by adding one or more washers (thanks ace hardware) below the clip to raise the needle richening the midrange mixture-same result as achieved in the video by moving the e-clip to a lower groove. Keep up the good work Redneck!
One of the best videos out there! Thank you so much for making this!!!
Really well laid out video and instructions, thanks
Great explanation! Straight to the point with enough detail. Well done!
Yea, this is one of the best vids on the subject I've found. Great job, sir! 👍
Thanks!
@@redneckoriental yeah awesome video
Real shit this is gold, should look into future as a teacher 100%
I watched your video back and forth couple times. Great video, thank you.
Your awesome dude! Fixed my problem instantly!
Thank you so much for this video. You made it easy to understand and short in duration.
Dude… thank you for such an awesome video. Super precise in your description 😊
I'm impressed. You are good at teaching and riding.
Man i just got my rubicon running like it did when it was new thanks to your video you're great thank you for sharing your knowledge
Amazing video,well explained so easy to understand!!!
here here Mike Mike, Thank you Redneck Oriental, well planned video and explanation, clear and concise, just what I needed. Cheers
My guy appreciate you for this video‼️ Help A lot‼️
Subscribed, this was really really helpful. Going to try what I've taken from this video to do the final tweaks on my 250 quad. I'll report back with my results! :D
I have a crappy bike and I’ve been spending days and dollars to get t it to run right and thanks to you this will be the last video I watch for today
The VERY BEST video !!!
THANK YOU.
10/10.
This is a very well explained carb video
We had the same experience with my motorcycle, I thought getting backfires are caused by a rich mixture so for the past 2 weeks I've been trying to experiment to add more air, but the backfires are getting worse so I tried to add more fuel, and now my motorcycle is running great and it has no backfires.
Thank you. Great job laying it out.
Thank you for this, actually helped alot
About non-adjustable needles, you can adjust them richer with 0.5mm shim discs. Though you cannot go leaner that way if your problem is too rich condition. Alternatively there are tuning kits from Dynojet to some carbs models and they may contain a new adjustable needle for carbs that are not adjustable by default.
Really great explanation
Thanks you helped me out a lot!!!
This video is awesome. ..very on point
Great video man helped a lot. 👍👍👍
Fantastic video sir 👏
Damn you make awesome videos man
This video is really good
Great video
Excellent video. Thank you.
People need to start sharing this masterpiece like on their FB page or any wheeler FB group Twitter etc I definitely know I’ll be doing that!!
I ❤️ this RUclipsr this video just Verified confirmed proven to my Hubby I was right once again.
My 02 Honda Foreman 450 S that is snorkeled & fighting trying to find & stop a small exhaust leak has been running like Caca forever that the jets probably need to be tweet a bit since everything else that’s been tried failed 🤪🤪
Really good video right here! I have a 2005 raptor 660 that backfires a lot on decel and only will idle with the choke on until it is fully warmed up. It also kind of breaks up when giving it gas until after 1/4 throttle. Stock intake and exhaust too
Did adjusting the needle and cleaning the jets fix your problem?
@@d21dusty72 nope, i replaced the piston and rings because it was low on compression. Thats fixed my backfire issue but I still need to use the choke until it warms up. Probably needs bigger pilot jets
Enjoyed watching the vid. Hoping you can help me out. I have 2004 Yamaha TT600. Bought a few months ago and since have been doing a few jobs= leaky valves so ground them in, cleaned carbs, tappets, but also fitted a new muffler which has really opened up the motor, sounds great, air filter is standard, ticks over fine, nice and slow but when you rev up it pops like hell on overrun. Should i lower clip on left hand carb to raise needle but what about right hand carb? Also what jets may need replacing in both carbs? Hope you can help, thanks
Thank you that was well explained
Litterly helped me solve my problem
Great video. Will float adjustment affect lean or rich?
Great Demonstration.
Thanks sharing! Great video
Very helpful thanks 👍🏻
amazing video thanks simple and 2 d point
Thank you so much for this easy to understand video, two thumbs up 👍 👍 if I had more thumbs I’d have them up too 😂
Spot on! thank you so much!
Earned a new sub
What about running full throttle, then letting off completely say to shift or stop? Poping constantly after, it's fine at idle fine with the throttle, but now when decelerating especially completely, it pops. I figure running rich but the fuel metering screw is all the way in ( bought a replacement carb). If I back out and play with the idle screw to bring down the idle it gets worse with the popping.
I like your explanation and content it's easy to follow along and well explained. I'm having problems with mine backfiring on deceleration and sometimes while I'm in first gear on constant throttle there's a slight hiccup. However it seems to be running a little warmer but after a long ride where I could open her up it returned to normal but something's not right. Here's my question, I running a XR650R carb on a XR650L bike long story short, was recommended by my mechanic who built bike but pandemic hit closed doors. I was stuck without a mechanic and having carb issues so I googled it but could not find it. So, the fuel mixture screw was not accessible and everytime I tried to question him about the carb he would always say "nothing was wrong with it". But I kept trying to tell him how did he access the fuel mixture screw because there's no way to adjust. So have you or how do you tune a carb that does not have a fuel/air mixture screw?
There's a screw. Or mess with the top of carb to adjust. When the cap is off the top there is a clip.. Might have to move down. I have to do the same on a can am ds250 ATV actually
I love it that information thanks men
What if I have no popping on deceleration, everything seems to run great when smooth throttle is applied however if I crack the throttle open in a corner hard or fast it falls flat like it wants to die. Not sure if I should adjust the needle clip or fuel air mixture but when I do it doesn’t really help the situation unless it’s idling high and almost about a half turn out on the air screw…
I have a Honda VTR 1000 superhawk I just purchased it runs perfect but it does pop quite a bit when you back off the throttle I don't know if it's normal for those v-twins or not any information greatly appreciated is it typical?
Thank you brother 🙏
SWEET VIDEO THANK YOU
i noticed some needles have like a white gasket close to the clip...some dont....is there an advantage to having one?
Solid video
Hi. I have a 300 king quad. I have a 140 MJ and it runs great but it should be a 120. Should I change it back? Also, I'd like it to start easier. It always starts, but sometimes I have to crank and crank. Any hints on where to look first? Pilot or fuel screw?
One quick question. By watching the video, I know I'm lean due to the new straight pipe. What if I'm getting popping when I release the throttle? And how do I know what size the main jet is on my bike? Thank you
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 you're the best
I have the same issue on my motorcycle. Except it was working fine until I had to fix a leak in the bowl and now it sounds like in the beginning of the video. I've cleaned it all of the jets and it seems like adjusting the idle mixture screws barely changes anything. Could it be some internal circuit that's clogged? Except it was running fine before so I'm not sure what it could be...
Very cool thank you
Awesome good job
Well made video
What should i do to make the pop how much should I turn the screw?? Please reply
Good job
I have a 125cc 4 stroke yamaha xtz125 and its carburetor doesn't have the air mixture screw. My bike has the same prob with your quad. What should i do instead? Have checked the jet and the carb part
It could also be getting some false air that makes the mixture lean, right?
I have a gy6 scooter and i have changed carb coil cdi spark plug air filter vacuum hoses and problem persists engine sometimes stalls exhaust poping this only happens when hot. When engine is cold it runs fine. Only thing i havent changed is the o ring on the intake manifold which is very flat hope that when i change it it will resolve the problem
Thank you!!!
Thank you ❤❤❤
Fantastic.
I am having an issue with my brand new carb on my 250. The bike ran great altough a little slow with the stock carb but wirh the new carb power was greatly increased but my idle is a little inconsistent. It will drop off as usual but it will rev up 100rpm from time to time up and down slowly with the throttle closed.
And if I pull hard on the throttle it will rev up but hesitate if I open the throttle too much it will simply bog down and die. I think I have it dialed in on the main jet but those 2 quirks are hunting me.. Any advice?
My friend just got a 125cc and when in first gear it's screaming soon as he sets off ready for second gear literally basically setting off in second any idea
Fantastic video thanks! My problem is the motor and carbs run great while going wide open, but then after like 5-10 seconds it starts not sputtering and sounds lean -- wondering if the fuel petcock is blocking proper flow?
Close the petcock. Disconnect the fuel hose from the carb. Put the hose into a container like a large bottle to catch the fuel. Open the petcock. Let it drain for however long you want and see if the fuel flow gets reduced. It's probably not the petcock, though. It takes more than 5-10 seconds for the bowl to empty of fuel.
@@redneckoriental Thanks, I've adjusted the needle and I THINK its working finally
Brilliant 👏
My xr650r is back firing and popping like this ,but is also fouling plugs black and sooty
One symptom ( back fire ) suggests lean
Other ( plug foul ) suggests rich ?
dude u literally made this at a 3rd grade level which is perfect for me because im an idiot
Thanks
What about when I'm going up an incline and it starts doing that but when I'm on level ground it doesn't??
I got two wolverine350s and they run like a top. Unfortunately both of them won't drive an inch. The axles and shafts on them are stripped out. From qhat I have read uts a very common issue with big bear and wolverines
What is pulling the choke out causes the bike to die? What does that mean? Does that mean I’m at the right adjustment?
What is that problem my atv same like sound popping also I cleaned carburetor still nothing but I m confused that my atv not running its shut off when choke on only when choke off its running what will be problem
I have a Kawasaki Lakota doing it at startup and it won't run what would it be it ran fine when it was warm out now in the winter it won't start
Informative video giving a great overview on addressing lean carb conditions! Thumbs-up 👍
how do you know if you engine need more fuel or less few then ? more fuel mean more speed
Nice one
Need help if anyone can help I replaced my carby for a bigger one than the small one I had on and bike runs mint without a airfilter but with one or even a small peice of foam makes the bike choke for air I've adjusted the needle for more airflow and also the screw near the airfilter on the outside the carb what would be the next step to help the airflow of the carby any help is much appreciated
So if it run worse when you put the choke on it means it's getting to much fuel, would that be right, I'm find at idle, just 1/2 to full is where I can't find the balance, it's spits and pops and most time cuts off after 10 secs of that unless I let off back to idle for it to recover, so glad your showing the sounds, most vids just tell you but don't show how it runs when jets are off, as well as which way there off at certain running conditions, tks
I would say your rich after the idle if it’s stuttering and cutting out. A surge in rpms is lean and bogging is rich flooding engine.
i have yamaha r3 i change exhaust to a full exhaust now its backfiring hehe my question is its still safe or do i need to remap the ecu? any damage in the future if i dont remap the ecu?
If anyone can help I have a moped I put on cone filter new cdi went up to a 115 main jet it runs great until I get to 50mph then it starts to pop any ideas?
omg TY to the point
Ok I got a question for y'all now 😅 my Yamaha Raptor started to sputter and pop and stall when I gave it gas after I was Wheeling it up the road for a bit and it wouldn't come out of it any ideas?
awesome
What would cause a kx250f to pop on deceleration?