Jaguar E Type barnfind DIY - Why stripping the body
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- You will learn why completely stripping the body shell of a Jaguar E Type barn find or project and what has to be considered when buying a project car.
Some brutal pictures of E Type body shells
www.e-types1.com
www.etypes1.com
www.etypetools...
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#Jaguar xke
#jaguar
#Jaguar E Type
#bodyshell stripping
#E Type
#barnfind
#DIY restoration
@JaguarEType
#Jaguar E type by Maikel Lemke
That she’ll is one in a million. You are very fortunate to have found it. Good luck going forward.
You are spot on, but still requires some work to be really perfect. A video will follow to show what you have to consider even on a nice body.
Looking forward to it. Thank You.
Really enjoying your videos, I like your down to earth approach..!
You have a great car there, I'm in the middle of restoration, my English series 3 2+2 from e-type UK was hideous after dipping..! P&K Thorntons doing a great job, so far..!
👓
@paulrichardtaylor3761 Many thanks for watching my videos. I am giving my best and always trying to improve 🤓
I love that big guy at P&K, especially they video "You have been Lied to". He is exactly right at one needs to be honest. He has been there, I have been there. And my goal is to make people become aware of all the hidden problems and work behind a beautiful appearance from 10 feet away. Getting closer into the details, that is where is all starts. Small items does not mean small cost and many small items do make a big lump, also in terms of money. The S1 and S3 are not that far apart, some components are different, but the story is about the same. What did they say how long it will last and what is their cost estimate? Please share and comment.
Do we see us at Malvern Jaguar Spares Day in October?
Maikel
Nice video Maikel, yes, they rust everywhere, bought my body 37 years ago and leave it for 30 years in my garage in top of my Jaguar XJ6 3.4L, which I had for 42 years, sold it 7 years ago and then I finely could work on my e type project, weld in the back and left floor/sills and cut of the rear lights part and they left me a series 2+2 rear end, that I had to remake it a series 1. Lot of work. Greetings Frank.
You will get there, just accept that there are day when it it better to back out for a moment and come back with new ideas and fresh motivation.
this is a great video...thank you
Many thanks
Very interesting video thank you.
@dougwernham5209
hello Doug, welcome to my Channel, please feel free to contact me any time you need assistance.
Maikel
I mainly stripped my 1965 E-Type FHC with a wire brush on my grinder. Quite alot of work but still happy with the result after 10 years.
Good day, yes, agree, it is the old way of doing it. Have seen it before but how do you get the rust and corrosion off inside the cave?
Many thanks for watching, more to come.
I'm considering buying an unrestored but well kept series one FHC now. Doing lots of research and watching lots of your videos.
Thank you very much, I know someone looking for a caretake of his late 3.8 FHC original Interior but repay on the outside. Blue/dark blue. Let me know if you are interested. Car is registered and running well. Just 60 years old if you do not mind. It is a survivor with no rust.
Yesterday was my first visit to your channel and I saw your appraisal of the OBL .......you really know these cars ! I was very impressed . I'm not so sure the seller was !! So l had to hava a look at this video . I too have a '66 2+2 and in no way could it compare with your example . My only concern with acid dipping is, unless you are absolutely certain it has been neutralised the acid will continue to eat into the metal and can actually cause more damage than the water ingress. Thankyou .
Many thanks for your feedback. I totally agree with you. Of course you have to be professional in cleaning before paint. But how often do we see a "simple" paintjob going wrong? I think that happens more often and still people do get their cars painted without acid dipping. What I am saying, everything should be done correctly and then it shall work.
That is a very sound shell! Did you chemical strip it? If yes, how do you neutralise the acid in the seams, I have seen the seam areas break out in rust years after restoration. Chris B.
Good day,
the entire process of this treatment takes 14 days. Several bathes, the shell is mounted on a rotisserie and will go through several dipping stages. You need to have at least two holes in the sills and other cavities. In the end it will be cleaned with high water pressure and sealed with some kind of light oil to avoid new surface rust. Maybe the seam areas on other cars have not been cleaned thoroughly and corrosion proceeded. On top, we will seal all cavities with Mike Sanders. Surely if you do have a lousy preparation, acid could stay and would remove the paint afterwords.
Great shell but surely the stripper removes pretection from inbetween the spot welds. Did you E dip the shell as well. Hugh
Hi Hugh, many thanks for your post.
What do you mean by protection between the spot welds? I doubt there has ever been any anti corrosion protection at all from the factory. The metal sheets on the inside never had any protection, at least on m cars. Good job the rust between the seams is removed and after painting Mike sanders cavity protection will be applied to avoid future corrosion. We did not use E Dipping as we still needed to check the complete body. But surely can be done.
do you believe that the rear number plate panel is original. i am trying to determine if the bottom edge of that panel should be inside or outside the boot floor on my own car, on the early silver car you reviewed it was inside, 2+2 looks like outside, BTW that body looks great
Good day, the thing floor panes is outside. The license plate panel is folded inside. I think that is the reason why someone wanted to make it look better on this 2+2 where the two panels meet each other and do not overlap.
👍👍👍!!!
@conceptalfa
thanks for watching
Do you rust treat the inside of the frame and other closed off parts that rust from the inside?
Good day,
not the engine frames but the bodyshell. With special car to the bulkhead, wheel arcs, lower bonnet area, tailgate, doors and the sills. I wax them.
I got curious after seeing american restorers on YT use a spray can with a flexible extension tube to spray the inside of frame tubes. I just checked and you can buy the spray can nozzle with extension tube separately as well.
I bought an Austin Healey from California. Virtually rust free. I then bought a car from Arizona. Quite a lot of rust but not a problem. I think one car had been kept in a garage and one left outside for years. Chemical dipping. I have been told chemical dipping is never completely neutralised and breaks out in rust years later in the seams. True or false?. I prefer a car cosmetically restored not completely dismantled retaining the original driving experience when new as much as possible.
Many thanks for your comment, I think, the chemical dipping needs more careful cleaning than the sand blasting.
Regarding the cosmetically restoration, well, I think we all have our own preferences. In my case with this project I think I did not have much of a choice 🙂
NOT CALIFORNIA....the best are DESERT cars..as in Phoenix and Arizona and Las Vegas and Nevada then Colorado and New Mexico. But Not California...well maybe and maybe NOT...because California (as Oregon and Washington) have the Ocean...and along the coast (where all the people live with there cars) has moist salt air...now California has Desert also but very low population.
Good day, you are right, but who is living in the desert? When talking about Californian cars, we do always intend the southern area as L.A. area. The dowside of desert cars is that all the vinyl and leather is dry and brittle hence will almost be impossible to rescue.
@@JaguarEType Vinyl and leather are much cheaper and easier to replace than rusty sheet metal. I've lived in So Cal since 1967 and remember when you could pull dry black plate California E Types out of peoples' driveways for $1,500. Those days are long gone. I bought 3 for a total of less than $20,000 total and still have my 3.8 FHC. The pickings are *very* slim now that the dealers & exporters mostly control the market now. To anyone thinking about flying over to So Cal and finding anything good at bargain prices, save your money. It's not even worth the airline ticket. 😞
60 years ago when these cars were new, California, specifically Southern California, was (and probably still is) the largest market for European sports cars. The largest dealers & distributors of Jaguars were British Motor Car Distributors in San Francisco owned by Kjell Qvale and Los Angeles based Charles Hornburg, both of which still sell new Jaguars to this day. When I was a kid growing up here in So Cal during the 60s & early 70s, I used to see E Types every single day. I bought my bone dry, original black plate '64 FHC in the 80s for 4 figures before prices became absurd. I've seen dry California cars as well as total rust buckets up & down the entire state. This long after these cars were made, it doesn't matter what part of California (or any other state or country for that matter) the cars originate from, it's *how they were maintained*. For anyone thinking that California is still full of dusty dry barn finds, you're almost 40 years late. First it was the Japanese that came through here buying everything in sight. Then it was the dealers & flippers, then the international high dollar E Type resto specialists and now the Europeans. I knew E Types would increase in value over time, but people dumping six figures into a restoration plus the price of the car is almost unfathomable bordering on insane.
Please DON'T acid-dip!!! We NEVER do that because of the likelihood of residues seeping out of seams over time. Don't do it!
Hello Neville, thanks for watching
We started an interesting discussion I guess. The company I am doing this is fully booked over years and they keep doing it since many years. It might be related to the caves with the E Type, but I have given it a try and as the shell still needs some finishing before painting I will make sure everything has been washed out properly. I think it is all about making sure you have nothing left of the acid inside the body shell. I will you you posted here.