Great progress again! It's definitely worth glassing those seams and edges on the cabin roof... in John Vigor's 'The Offshore Seaworthy Sailboat' book, he ends each chapter with a 'think inverted' section... and that applies here. If you were to go over, there could be a lot of things (including you) bouncing on to the cabin roof, so I'd make that super strong too!
I have had oil based paint lift off of epoxy when submerged, like in a bilge. Glad to see some wood handrails, and not a knarly bit of epoxy soaked rope. The bow turned out well.
I think you'll find at the stern you'll want to anti foul all the underside even where it's above the water line, very little sunlight will get in there and as you're sailing the laminar flow will remain attached, even when at anchor those area's will be in the water as you rock over wake/swell, so you'll get plenty of growth there so that water line is probably only useful if you'll be out of the water most of the time (don't you plan to cross an ocean?) Probably want to think about whether you run the anti foul up higher than the water line as well. You can always leave this comment and add extra anti foul later based on where the growth build up happens, hopefully you figure it out during sea trials, and don't have growth slowing your ocean crossing.
You're probably right. This will have to do for year 1, then I'll adjust as needed. Until then I don't mind to jump in and scrub the hull a little as needed.
If is not too late, consider extending your antifouling 2” - 3” above your waterline. Doing so will prevent marine growth scum creep up onto your topsides. Good luck with your project.
Hm, I wonder if it's too late. I decided on 1.5" above the theoretical waterline. I'll probably try this for the first year and then I can always adjust after that.
YO mate, UK BABY, sika flex. is the UK marine standard. stick anything together, or seal oat for life, When I worked on gweek quay boat yard. THEY ORDER IT BY THE BOX. it's the same stuff they use to glue in car windscreens. which is now a structural part of the vehicle, this is amazing glue. flexible n grabs on like you wont believe. they remanufacture old rubber with this. PLAY with it. it's amazing. :-)
I've used fillets that include some chopped glass - it would be interesting to compared the strength of chopped glass reinforced fillets with fillets plus glass fabric - one might be able to save considerable time if the fillets only approach was sufficient and it was used for all interior junctions.
Well.. 90% of the reason for having fillets in the first place is so that the glass cloth laid that's laid over it can make a smooth, curving transition rather than having to make a sharp 90° turn at the joint (which would weaken it considerably). Using fillets only, to glue a panel to a stringer, is not sufficiently strong for open ocean work.
I hadn't heard any english explanation. I think he redesigned the deck opening for the mast into a kind of ramp so that the mast is easier to slide in?
maybe you’ll add ballast later when you realise how tender boats of this size are. May as well go higher with waterline now. Give yourself an extra 4 inches for more capacity for gear etc
The boat already has a planned ballast with steel keels and lead bulbs. I went higher than that waterline. If I went 4 inches over, commenters would say I should have gone 6.
Yeah, I showed the diagram in ep 77. The hull has a good curve to it so there's a good size volume below the waterline. But we'll see how accurate it is once she's in the water!
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
That’s going to be a seriously strong boat.
Good work.
Good to have boat upside down
It sure is, Captain.
This is an algorithm booster! ⛵
As always, it’s great to see your kids learning how to build boats. 😊
9.91K subscribers!! So close.
Great progress again! It's definitely worth glassing those seams and edges on the cabin roof... in John Vigor's 'The Offshore Seaworthy Sailboat' book, he ends each chapter with a 'think inverted' section... and that applies here. If you were to go over, there could be a lot of things (including you) bouncing on to the cabin roof, so I'd make that super strong too!
I agree. I definitely think inverted while designing for this boat.
I have had oil based paint lift off of epoxy when submerged, like in a bilge. Glad to see some wood handrails, and not a knarly bit of epoxy soaked rope. The bow turned out well.
I have to see this build to the end ill subscribe.
Thanks for subscribing. It's been a long journey and the launch is now in my sights.
I think you'll find at the stern you'll want to anti foul all the underside even where it's above the water line, very little sunlight will get in there and as you're sailing the laminar flow will remain attached, even when at anchor those area's will be in the water as you rock over wake/swell, so you'll get plenty of growth there so that water line is probably only useful if you'll be out of the water most of the time (don't you plan to cross an ocean?)
Probably want to think about whether you run the anti foul up higher than the water line as well.
You can always leave this comment and add extra anti foul later based on where the growth build up happens, hopefully you figure it out during sea trials, and don't have growth slowing your ocean crossing.
You're probably right. This will have to do for year 1, then I'll adjust as needed. Until then I don't mind to jump in and scrub the hull a little as needed.
If is not too late, consider extending your antifouling 2” - 3” above your waterline. Doing so will prevent marine growth scum creep up onto your topsides. Good luck with your project.
Hm, I wonder if it's too late. I decided on 1.5" above the theoretical waterline. I'll probably try this for the first year and then I can always adjust after that.
Hi Capt. Perry, Sir! I’m sure I had the privilege of serving with you in DG. Love your channel and all your work! Hello from Devon, England!
Is that Diego Garcia? I've never been there. Thanks for the support though!
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Yes. Oh well, you must have a twin brother!
I like those grab rails, and I'm really looking forward to seeing you paint it.
I like them a lot too, thanks. Painting coming very soon.
Just found your channel and I’m hooked ! New subscriber ! Looking forward to following your adventures.
Best wishes from Gordon in Scotland.
Awesome! Thank you! I've got a lot of Scottish blood. McPherson.
YO mate, UK BABY, sika flex. is the UK marine standard. stick anything together, or seal oat for life, When I worked on gweek quay boat yard. THEY ORDER IT BY THE BOX. it's the same stuff they use to glue in car windscreens. which is now a structural part of the vehicle, this is amazing glue. flexible n grabs on like you wont believe. they remanufacture old rubber with this. PLAY with it. it's amazing. :-)
Thanks for this video. I'm learning so much!!
That's great! You're welcome.
Nice job 👍
Thanks 👍
Looking good!
Nice work!
looking Great 👍
Doing great!
No vendría mal una escuadra de refuerzo laminada a la unión de cuaderna con el costado.
Sorry, i'm not English...😊
Looks Great
Excellent travail Capitaine Perry 👍👌
Merci Capitaine.
Excellent handrails!
I've used fillets that include some chopped glass - it would be interesting to compared the strength of chopped glass reinforced fillets with fillets plus glass fabric - one might be able to save considerable time if the fillets only approach was sufficient and it was used for all interior junctions.
Well.. 90% of the reason for having fillets in the first place is so that the glass cloth laid that's laid over it can make a smooth, curving transition rather than having to make a sharp 90° turn at the joint (which would weaken it considerably). Using fillets only, to glue a panel to a stringer, is not sufficiently strong for open ocean work.
she comes together
Hi Perry 👋 did you understand why Yann Quenet changed his mast fixing system on the 'baluchon' v.2 ?
Vincent
I hadn't heard any english explanation. I think he redesigned the deck opening for the mast into a kind of ramp so that the mast is easier to slide in?
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Exactly because he also explains that it is really very complicated to change or work on the mast at sea.
maybe you’ll add ballast later when you realise how tender boats of this size are. May as well go higher with waterline now. Give yourself an extra 4 inches for more capacity for gear etc
The boat already has a planned ballast with steel keels and lead bulbs. I went higher than that waterline. If I went 4 inches over, commenters would say I should have gone 6.
👍👍👍
Is the position of the waterline theoretical or a guess?
Isn't a theory just a well thought out guess?
@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Touché
I'm surprised at where that waterline is. This thing floats really high!
Yeah, I showed the diagram in ep 77. The hull has a good curve to it so there's a good size volume below the waterline. But we'll see how accurate it is once she's in the water!
only 4 year to go ...
More like 4 months.
thanks
Looks great
Nice work!