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Sometimes he links a tracker on his FB group.

Good question. Use a carbide grit blade for ceramics. Works wonderfully.

I would like to once the boat's completed. Logistically it's a bit of a challenge because you have to get some straps around the boat and something like a crane or forklift to pull up, rolling the boat. It's a bit of a large undertaking.

I appreciate that, thanks. I make plenty of mistakes. 😉

Yes, good point.

Go as small as you can to start. Look into the Cape Dory Typhoon and Compac 16 or other Compacs. Check the "Classic Small Cruisers List" on atomvoyages.com

@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Thanks. So many places say you basically need a 40+ foot boat just to squeeze 2 people into for more than a weekend sail. Or a $2 mil catamaran. What would be your minimum hull design? There seems to be so many Utube channels running a bolt on keel. Would you trust a Catalina 28 to cross the Pacific?

@@goatman3828 I'd build it myself or use something from the list I recommended you look up. Start researching from there. Best of luck.

That is simply untrue. This foam has a compression strength of 90lbs/in2. You've got about 4" of bolt/epoxy bed area total for each padeye. Each padeye holds half the force of 1 small sail. From the bolts/epoxy beds that's around 360lbs of support on each side. Not including the many layers of carbon fiber that the end result will have, spreading the load across the arch. Saying the bolts do nothing shows you don't have an understanding of what's being built nor the materials involved. The bolts are not really needed, laminations of carbon fiber are incredibly strong, but I wanted to add them anyway.

We seem to agree that the primary strength is coming from the carbon fiber. I said that the bolts do nothing. And you said that the bolts are not really needed. It's not a matter of foam compression. The bolts are not anchored to anything and can be pulled out of the foam. The only thing holding it all together is the carbon fiber. I still encourage you to rethink the design. The loads will not be static. Assuming the padeyes can be held in place with the carbon fiber, that just means that the entire arch will need to withstand being pulled back and forth with sudden forces. This will put strain on the arch supports. You'll have the full force of the sail trying to rip the entire arch off the back of the boat. If the arch supports are about 1.5 feet or more, that's a lot of leverage that will amplify the forces.

Small sail, small boat, small forces. It's the same basic construction techniques as used on the boat Baluchon and it works fine. Everyone wants to chime in that something is not strong enough. I can triple up strength the next week and they'll write the same. I've learned to filter it out and rely on advice from trusted boat-builder contacts. Just watch and enjoy, or if you don't enjoy then don't watch. Components have been built stronger than required.

Thank you. My plan is to have extra buoyancy on one side of the boat, so that she won't have that issue. Such as a couple small buoyancy bags tied up on deck. But I feel even without those it should be fine, as the natural motion of the sea should tip her to one side pretty quickly in that state.

I imagine the composting toilet is only for close to shore, local sailing. No need for it 3+ miles off shore : )

@@et5222 One can imagine some Caribbean "island hopping" in the summer with lots of usage for such a toilet! 😆But I am posting comments for the algorithm, to help Cap. Perry!

Not to worry, I don't keep any deposits inside the cabin for any longer than it takes to read these comments! But I was sent a seat that fits on a bucket and that's pretty handy.

Yesss, we are so close now.

I'm not sure when, I have a couple things I want to do first like the mast and rudder. But it's coming soon. Check out ep 48 for your storm question.

Yes there will be solar. I'm planning to start off using only a sculling oar off the stern, but I'm willing to add a small electric outboard down the road if I feel it's needed.

That would be cool. I talked to a ton of curious people at gas stations.

Thanks. When I carbon fiber the rest of the wing I'll be sure to add some strips from the padeye onto the leading edge of the wing.

I still need to add some layers of CF and filet on the inboard side of the padeyes, firmly securing it to the leading edge of the wing. I think it will be plenty strong for my small sail, but we'll see once she gets sailing.

Good luck, hope it’s good 👍

I mean, she's actively holding a high power vacuum to it, there's not much dust to speak of.

Chips vs dust….

Carbon fibre dust is really nasty stuff, not with risking it with just a vacuum. If you cut carbon fibre with a CNC mill commercially it’s done under water, a vacuum doesn’t cut it.

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboatmind your own business

Mind your own business

Calculations show 130 degrees but I suspect she'll quickly right from even 180 deg due to the volume I've added to the arch and some other tricks I have planned. I rely on calculations from the qualified marine architect Jerome.

I add a plastic layer then tape the plastic to the wing all the way around just to make sure the carbon fiber sticks onto the corners tightly. Sometimes cloth doesn't want to stick on to the corners. Also I clamped some wood and cardboard onto the G-10 padeye part just to make sure the carbon fiber was pressed firmly on there. It's all basically "poor-man's vacuum bagging technique."

I basically am! Designed for 200mph, travelling 2mph. 😂

I don't think it will be an issue because it's a boom-less rig and a small sail = small forces.

I think so, but we'll see. One thing to remember is it only holds half the load of the sail, as the opposing padeye holds the other half. The G-10 padeye is 3mm, but the 4 layers of carbon fiber added an additional 2mm. I haven't tested it, but I suspect that will hold a surprisingly large amount of weight!

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboata am not shore if it holds half the load when the sail is full on one side of the boat and its blowing >20kn perhaps 80-20% of the load is more likely. Is seems a bit thin for me. And how wil you replace this bracket when the eye is worn down? But great to see you still going through. Greetings Michel from the Netherland

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat OK thanks for the detail appreciated, Im sure you are correct and it will be fine. I just tend to overbuild things.....If I understood the layup correctly you screwed into foam? I saw you squeeze thickened epoxy in great. May I suggest taking some g10 then screwed in the same way into foam? or just how you did on the arch with some glass fiber mat and do a pull test if that holds then the carbon fiber mat on your g10 on the boat will be very strong. Again even if it is strong after some type of pull test that G10 maybe you could add more or too late now, as I see another viewer also has some concerns in his comments. Sorry but Im like most other viewer's in that we all like to be involved to some degree.

I still need to add some layers of CF and filet on the inboard side of the padeyes, firmly securing it to the leading edge of the wing. So it will get even thicker before the end. The eyes shouldn't wear down, a short sacrificial length of line will go through them, and that will be replaced as it chaffes over time. That makes a 3" loop from the padeyes, then a longer line runs from the loop on the port side to the one on the starboard side.

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Sounds Good Im sure you have it secure enough as we cannot yet see the final product as you have already envisioned. Thanks again for listening to our comments

Me too. But as Yrvind advised me once, "If you're worried about the strength, just add more layers of fiberglass." In this case it will be carbon fiber so I'm sure it will be much stronger than needed. Also, a small boat encounters smaller forces and more easily moves with the force to shed some of the blow. (talking about it getting hit with water there) And for the sail, it's a smaller sail so that helps.

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Haha, I love the way Yrvind thinks. Harken has a mainsheet loading calculator. Google "mainsheet loading calculator".

It is pretty cool, it made me start to think about not painting it too. It would be one less thing to do...

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat I've read that UVs weaken the carbon's stiffness capacities by a lot. Like carbon bike frames would get much less stiffer in a year, from what I heard (but I'm in south France and there's a lot of sun here, so maybe that's why).

Interesting. I thought carbon fiber didn't need to be painted, but I guess the powerful sun destroys all things.

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat To my knowledge carbon fiber itself is uv stable, but epoxy is not. It needs to be protected from uv by some kind of UV blocking coating, such as varnish.

@@ocean_capable_small_sailboat I guess that's why carbon ultralight aircrafts are painted too, even if that's heavier. After a little search online, I'm pretty much conviced that sunrays would damage unprotected composite matrix (as @dustman97 said) and, ultimately, cause delamination.

Yes, probably just for aesthetics.

Seems a little wasteful when the bottles are free, though. Plus ping-pong balls are likely more weight per cubic ft than bottles. If a small bottle won't fit in there, then using them inside a small space like a mast sounds like a good application. The first sailboat I owned was a Hobie 16.

To make long voyages on a small inexpensive boat.

@ocean_capable_small_sailboat I guess my problem with this approach is this: as the boat gets shorter it necessarily gets slower. Slower speeds mean you have to have more food & water etc on board so the displacement/length ratio gets higher making the boat slower which means more food.. so you get into a doom loop of slower & slower. I guess I would be trying to get the longest waterline I could while still retaining my other constraints. Maybe a longer boat that disassembled into two stacking parts for storage? Double the waterline length is 40% more speed for the same power, and of the order of 16x the stability.

Sure, you could quadruple the length and then you're at a 56' boat and really flying along. But as you lengthen the waterline the costs also raise exponentially. Not only to build but to maintain. Bigger and more sails, powerful winches, etc. And the time burned on building/upkeep increases as well. If you look up the boat Baluchon you can see this type of boat has already circumnavigated. It's not fast, but it's not so slow that there's some "doom loop" you mention where the supplies needed become so heavy you can't make good progress in a day of sailing.

@ocean_capable_small_sailboat two things: first,length is not size. It's possible to have a long, small boat. Second, we are going to have to disagree about the "doom loop" thing as the physics is inescapable. The hull speed of a 14ft boat is around 4.8 knots. Most boats at sea will cruise at around 75% of hull speed, possibly less for a heavily loaded beamy hull so around 3.5 knots average speed. I can swim at two knots....

@ocean_capable_small_sailboat Have you ever looked at Bolger's folding schooner? You could end up with something that is the same length when folded, but doubled on the water hence 40% faster...

I mentioned in the video that the expanding foam final volume would be less than what was inside the structure. So I added just enough bottles to make up the difference.

Neat, but I don't have a big block of foam to cut nor a hot wire setup. The foam I used was already in the house and needs to be used up.

Yes that was the intention 😁

Hopefully I never see them again! But I got pictures.

Small boats, small problems. I used to have a 31' boat, I doubt I'll ever go back. 16'... maybe 😀

It's got nowhere to go, it will be wrapped in carbon fiber and fiberglass.

The bonds just hold it in place until it's encased in carbon fiber and fiberglass.