Stop-start bullshit doesn’t help either. Oil pressure drops every time the engine stops and then it’s required to drive off at the lights instantaneously as the engine starts again.
Should have named the video : "How greedy accountants and shareholders with massive short term incentive bonuses destroyed the german car industry" . Accountants know the price of everything and the value of nothing
Do you work for the government? Wake up, EV MANDATES BY THE GOVERNMENT forcing every manufacturer to make ICE engines smaller and smaller, in order to reduce overall emissions to avoid fines.
Missed a key point: if an engine does not last it is not only bad for the owner it is a disaster for the environment. Typically the car will be scrapped and another car needs to be purchased. Also the efficiency of these engines is over-stated on paper as they are designed to be "cycle beaters", i.e. give good results in the official tests. The difference between official fuel economy figures and actual MPG has increased over time.
factor in the cost of maintenance involved for the greater fuel efficiency & the user ends up paying triple to go an extra 1.1 miles per gallon. And it signs off early to boot. Now you're in line to buy the even MORE 'efficient' model. Which will fail even sooner.
The whole "Green" bullshit is just business as usual for a handful of rich individuals who set the political rules according to their investments. There is nothing green with blowing up eco engines or with EV´s that require massive amounts of natural reserves + all mined using child labor and those batteries die withing a couple of years... The best green act is to drive your old car until it dies.
Ohhh, these ecoterrorist not that smart to think trough this. :) They can only think here and now. They think the EV is the best solution, but not considering how much it costs to the environment to replace an already working car with a new one. Just because it's EV.
A car that lasts 200k, is better for the environment than one that only lasts 100k, and gets 2MPG better. politician activist types will never understand this.
Current modern Tesla Model 3 and Y, are still brand new after 200k miles. The LFP versions can even last 1 million miles. That's the power of not having so many parts and not having much parts that even do wear out.
@@InfiniteRemoteControl If you look at the bigger picture you should look at EV's. They have the potential to last extremely long. With little to no wear. I know people with Tesla's 3/Y that have 100K miles on them. And the only thing they changed is tires, wiper blades and interior filter and wiper fluid. That's it.
Some asian brands chose other paths instead of downsizing. Yes, politics created the issue, but German manufacturers chose the wrong path, and I work for one of them.
Yes politicians has put pressure on manufacturers to do lots of things that would never been done just a couple of decades ago, it’s false economy but stupid politicians with university degrees that has now idea about engines decide these things, it’s disgusting and will be disastrous, anyway they don’t even care as long as they thing they are «green».
not really, there was no other path than dowsizing, since eu laws are strictly c02 grams per km without other reference, for example in the usa bigger vehicles have lower tolerances, so manufacturers simply stopped making small cars
Mercedes always had an oil pressure gauge up until the E-class w124 and S w140. Used to be above 2 bar on idle. It was removed in the w202, w210 and w220... for some reason.. and never came back. Those cars still had really good engines though.
We need oil pressure gauges again. Most cars had them in the 1980s, some in the 1990s, but not many since 2000s. They were good for auto industry too because you could see pressure drop. Pressure drop by 20% at idle means you need to change oil filter. Until 1990 there was big competition to have a reliable engine. They're moved their focus.
My 1982 240D has it, I don't know too much about what value should the engine run at, it's mostly pegged at 3 bar, sometimes it drops at 2.2-2.5, but when it drops below 2.0 I sense that there is something wrong
Unfortunately, engine life is dictated entirely on piston rings, as they are simultaneously the largest contributor to friction in the engine, as well as being one of very few components that are impossible to lubricate effectively to avoid wear. Even more unfortunate is that over the years, manufacturers have started using smaller, thinner, and lower-pressure piston rings to improve fuel economy, leading to shorter piston ring lifespan.
This upload just made a bad morning into the best morning in weeks brother man. Thank you for the hard work for such well researched content! Your experiment needs to explode on RUclips!
@@MIK-Motoren-INT Of course! You have a guaranteed viewer and subber here, you actually took the time to do the proper experiments to find your answer. 90% of other RUclipsrs just make a commentary and that's it. You actually break down the science so well with physical/viewable tests, you'd be an amazing teacher! If your upgraded oil pump comes out for the M113/M113K/M112/M112K, I'd buy it too. I'm sharing your video on the forums if that's okay?
I watch VAGTechnic on RUclips, he specialises in Audi. They found a lot of engine failures due to low oil pressure at idle, wrecking the camshaft bearing and starving the cam followers of oil and failing - dropping valves. Their solution is to hack into the engine management software, alter the oil pressure solenoid setting to double the factory idle setting. As they say saving polar bears is very expensive for the motorist.
Very interesting. I searched the VAGtechnic channel for "oil pressure" and most video's seem to be about big TDI engines if I'm correct. This suggests that low oil pressure is mainly a diesel engine related problem or is this not true?
Big diesel engines are likely more affected by this because their high torque at low rpm makes it easier for them to break the oil film and wreck the bearings. But in general, for sure this is a problem on all modern engines, especially with bypass valves on the oil pumps to reduce engine load at idle/low rpm only to get better scores in WLTP testing @@DMB_D1
@@DMB_D1that's probably because Audi almost only sells those engines in germany. The typical Audi is sold to companies as a fleet car. Same goes for the VW Passat and a lot of Mercedes and BMWs
@@HermanWillems Whats that? Ev motor? People are even less knowledgable about those making it much easier for companies to disregard consumers and work for profit and government requirements so likley same issues will happen, and for people who do know the companies have too much control and would lock them out using the electonics. Just as bad for the environment when they get sold and scrapped after 5 years of use, unless youre talking about something else.
The problem is that most pollution coming out of pipes from factories and everything. Other stuff im not talking about CO2, but they are invisible but very harmful. But humans are stupid, they "MUST SEE" something to believe it. They don't like invisible danger and just take the easy way: "AH i don't see it so i don't believe it" route. Which is a sign of very very low IQ. And human eyesight is based on electromagnetic waves... not just that. Only a super narrow band of it. We are practically BLIND.
This are happening on the 3.0 tdi V6 audi a6 c8 models (new generation). Audi decided to make a low demand on oil pressure at idle and low rpm by phasing out a little the cam shafts in order to specify the desire emissions. But that phasing out are creating a too premature gear worn, phasing out the cams even wider and rattling it for timming chains worned, oval cams etc. So the preventative measure is programming the oil pump at its maximum through the entire rpm, to not make adjusters phasing the cams.
Extreme cost savings can reduce the price of a car by 5 %. The end result is more frequent repair and in the end a much shorter life span. You therefore need to buy two cheap cars, in order to get the life-time of one quality car. A generale rule for ALL items- not just for cars.
@@danielduggan7126 yeah, its why the toyota 2e has under 50 horsepower per litre and is so reliable, the pressure in the cylinder is so low that it doesnt stress the engine at all
You won't get far with plastic pistons and crankshaft and piston rings and bearing shells and con rods and engine block and heads. The truth is the higher the specific output the lower the durability.With the exception of torque made by stroke leverage which is effectively free power.
I have been wondering why not use aux electric pump - You will start the engine with oil pressure already build in. And should be also able to boost the pressure at idle wile not consuming ton of energy.
cost and another failure point. also electrics and oil are never reliable. I had to fix several voltage regulators on Hitachi alternators that had a vacuum pump lubricated by engine oil attached to the back. The oring seal would start to leak oil and it would slowly get into the alternator electronics causing havoc
Has to do with overall efficiency. The load on the engine is so low at idle, that there isn't a need for so much pressure. Starting and stopping isn't an issue. However, depending on usage case, such as these turbo charged engines, oil squirters are necessary to hit under the pistons to keep temperatures even. So if you come off the highway and sit at a red light, the lower pressure and volume of oil is insufficient. Heat kills engines, and lack of oil flow and pressure only builds heat. Cams, lifters, and pistons are most affected, as most of their components are oiled indirectly, unlike the bearings.
@@danielpedro77 "cost and another failure point." Since you use electrical pumps to keep the pressure in pipelines, refineries and so forth, we can eliminate the whole "electrics and oil are never reliable". It is only a matter of correct construction, which of course prevents cutting important corners to save a few bucks. If we learned anything from the Ford Pinto, it is that the management doesn't care what happens as long as they don't have to pay for it themselves.
@@johanmetreus1268 I replaced many electrical components ruined by diesel or oil. no matter the quality of the seal, it will eventually get brittle/hard and start to leak in minimal amount, sometimes it's not even visible, but fluids spread and find their way into the nearest electrics. also you can't compare static to mobile mechanics, the vibration from a hard suspension or an old IDI diesel ruins so much stuff
There are older engines that run far below 20 psi at idle, and last a very long time. The Subaru EA series for instance only runs at around 10 psi at idle hot, on a newly rebuilt engine. I've had multiple of these with over 400,000 miles on them and still running perfectly. There are four key differences between this engine and a modern one. It is a pushrod engine. There are no bearings in the cylinder heads. Only rocker arms. The lifters are solid flat tappets. There is no timing chain. Only two solid gears at the rear of the engine. And the oil required is a 10w-50 or 15w-50, not a 0w-8 or 0w-16. Thicker oil and much less oil demand in the engine. The only things that need direct oiling are the bearings, the camshaft and lifters (for rocker arm oiling only). Minimum oil pressure at idle for this engine is only 5 psi. And it will run that way for many hundreds of thousands of miles, as long as the correct viscosity of oil is used. The other key difference is this engine does not make much torque at low speed. All of the usable power is above 3700 RPM, where the oil pressure is between 50-90 psi depending on oil temperature. So because the engine does not make enough torque to be run at below 3000 RPM, and the cars that it is installed in are geared very low, the engine is never under load at low speed, where the oil pressure is lower.
Most modern engines don't even have an oil pressure sensor and just have a pressure switch that activates at a very low pressure, often between 3-7 psi to verify idle oil pressure. With the exception of the very latest engines that manufacturers are specifying very thin oils like xW-20, -16, or -8, most modern engines (with chain driven roller tappet DOHC) that use normal oil viscosities like xW-30 or -40 have no problem with low oil pressure at idle and even high torque at low RPM with a turbocharger. The problem isn't the engines themselves, but the manufacturers intentionally using the incorrect oil viscosity to sqeeze out that last bit of fuel economy for government tests.
Chrysler K-car engines, the 2.2 and 2.5L 4 cylinders, are SOHC engines with 5 bearings up top on the cam. The oil pressure switch that turns on the oil pressure warning light is calibrated to 5 psi. Hot idle you'll see 7-12 psi on a rebuild. I had one with 375,000km on it that I retired only because I got bored of it and wanted something newer (with AC!)
If you're implying that engines don't need to have overhead cams, I partially disagree. I think that SOHC is necessary, or at least strongly beneficial, but that DOHC is mostly useless for a road car. You don't need to be able to time intake and exhaust separately in relation to each other if you design your cam correctly for your head characteristics and operating range. The only thing I can see DOHC useful for is if you want to switch between fake Atkinson-cycle and normal operation, but even then, I believe that can be accomplished with a secondary intake lobe similar to how Honda runs Vtec on the J series V6 engines.
I had big troubles finding a car with a good reliable engine. Did not want small 3 cylinder turbocharged engines. Also wanted a reliable automatic gearbox. A lot of search was needed. I ended up with a Mazda CX-5 with a 2,5 l naturally aspirated gasoline engine with a very smooth shifting and reliable 6 speed automatic gearbox. There could be others equally good, but in todays carmarket they are very rare gems - not easy to find. Honda CR-V is supposed to be a very similar car by looks, but with all the unvanted technical details, including a CVT gear. But the Mazda still gives a better milage compared with the Honda. Happy that there still are a few serious car manufactures.
@riceman78 I've got a new mazda 6 2.5 turbo gt An equivalent tesla would have cost 60% more. I would like to keep my car for 20 years. I don't think the tesla would last that long. I occasionally go for long drives of up to 6 hours at highway speeds, the tesla would require more stops that I would like. EVs aren't for everyone.
@@riceman78 Different technologies just gives different problems. Some high quality brands ICE cars, gives the user a very reliable car and long lifespan without severe break-down. EV cars have come a long way, in the last 10 years. And many owners have a good car too, for many years. But EV cars are not a guarante for trouble-free driwing. The life -cycle for an EV car is generally shorter for different reasons.
correct me if I am wrong but the problem is not the small displacement itself but displacement + heavy weight. AFAIK Suzuki has been making light turbocharged vehicles since forever, and they considered being reliable.
My ford focus with the NA 2.0 motor has been excellent. Still runs great at 310 000kms. I have a volkswagon 2014 2.0 tdi as well that runs great at 212 000kms. My heater core plugged anyhow. The pre 2016 Volkswagon TSI motors are notorious for consuming oil and eating timing chains if not maintained meticuously. The explanation in this vid makes sense as to why they do.
I like your video, Another issue that plagues many manufactures nowadays is premature bore wear and higher oil consumption due to direct injection systems bore washing. Take a look at the new turbocharged Honda engines. Honda had such a good track record of reliability, now with their new engines that's not the case anymore.
I agree, I prefer no direct injection. but people want power. My car is 20 years old. and I did in December myself the rocker arms adjustment, and I was able to inspect the valves, "I was impressed". beautiful clean. I have a Honda jazz year 2005. with 184k miles on it. As your mention the new Hondas are coming with those motors and they put me off lol. I don have interest in powerful motor, my interest is lifespan.
Just sold a 300,000km car which was going strong on all original running gear. Oil changed mid service throughout its time with me. BMW M57TU30 three litre diesel. Also still running a three litre petrol with 125,000km and when recently serviced was the cleanest engine the garage had seen, doesn't use any oil at all. BMW S54. Both engines are terrific. Not going to be touching any 3 or 4 cylinder turbo cars, ever. Great video!
Have had a Subaru WRX 2000 model now 25 years old with over 425,000 kms, original 4 cylinder turbo motor, original manual gearbox etc. Oil is changed every 6 months. This motor has hit the rev limiter hundreds of times. My fathers Peugeot 504 4 cylinder had 780,000 kms on the original motor and still going strong. Don’t think it’s the number of cylinders that gives longevity but the way people look after their cars. Agree that environmental regulations are choking ICE engines to death.
@@Wacko2-wrx Haven't seen a 'Bugeye' Subaru WRX on the road in decades. lol. All melted or crashed I guess, like 600/750 sportbikes. You are the exception.
B58 bmw engine specs 0W20LL. Running it sounds like a diesel. Changed to 0W30LL, much quieter and fuel economy is about the same . I assume pressures are higher.
@@senco981 no, check tolerances of new engines from bmw, mercedes, toyota both diesel and petrol they stayed pretty much the same bit thinner oils appeared, they appeared only because of new emissiom norms, same reason why low tension piston rings are used from 2010, and low penalties for companies recomending 30k km service intervals those 3 are recepie for oil burning rod knocking engines.....i see them all the time (more on new diesels)
@@LawrenceMacMacster 0w, 5w is the number concerning cold weather, latter number is oil viscosity at 100c, your engine runs at the same operating temp as the engine in lets say very hot weather....so i would still recomend 0w40 or 5w40
Long time ago, literally in another century. I started tunning one of my old air cooled VW engines. In total I had 6 of them! Due to cost constraints I couldn't afford go all the way into it at once. So it was done in several easy (cheap) steps. Guess what, first thing to be improved. High flow oil pump and oil filter system. All wrapped up with a decent oil pressure gauge. I was young and poor, but not stupid. LOL 🙂 In retrospective that combination saved the engine quite a few times!
German cars have been horrendously unreliable for a long time now. Poor design and the use of materials not fit for purpose do not help matters. The most unreliable vehicle I have ever owned was German. It was not particularly high mileage and was even worse than the cheap beaten up high mileage cars that I had when young. I will never buy another German Vehicle.
Had two German cars a golf head gasket went drive shaft wore out plus many other faults and an a6 3 litre v6 Audi broke down on way home from garage I bought it from my alfa 159 had it for 6 years now no bother same as my subaru legacy brilliant cars
@ They are working out how to build the unreliability that they are so famous for into ev's, it's a challenge I am sure that German manufacturers can rise to !!!
My A4 B9 2.0 TDI Ultra (so the less stressed version with only 150HP) was the worst car I ever owned. It was only 5 years old with 78K KMs when I got rid of it. The engine was OK, but the rest of the car was garbage. I have never seen a car where the tail lights have failed twice after only 3 years lol. Gearbox couldn't go into 1st gear when cold sometimes (known issue but Audi couldn't fix it). MMI would crash randomly while on the highway and I needed GPS... TBH even a Clio is better Quality for the price, the A4 felt so cheap. The leather seats started to wear after 5 years and I really took good care of the car...
0w-20 oil could be replaced with 5W-30 for a gain in viscosity thereby increasing oil pressure? The additive package would need to match though. It’s an old technique to keep a dying engine running more quietly.
Many people rev the engine too high when the engine is cold, I see this all the time with my neighbours racing up the road in the morning. My own car, a BMW 520d will have to drive for at least 6-7 minutes before the water temperature reach the operating temp. Also the start stop system is not good for an engine, on my car the only way to switch it off is to select sport mode, I do this every time I drive. Also too many short drives where the car is switched off before reaching temperature is not optimal, I sometimes drive a longer trip than I need to just to get the temperature up, before I park the car.
Choose a small capacity engine with minimum oil quantity for short trips; engine warms up very quickly but regular oil changes are a must with engines of small sump capacity.
Hooray! I didn't know you had channel speaking English! I admit I had trouble following along sometimes because I don't understand German. I love you guys. I love your balance shaft delete kit/ oil pump upgrade for my gen1 FSI engine. Best kit on the market!! 100% recommend!
We live in times were electronics and software is integrated in everything!!! As these evolve continuously at light speed and new features (some for the good, some nonsense) are added on every day, one has to question how much life expectancy one want to build in consumer goods???
You forget the company greed and the constant push to make things overly complicated, more expensive and less repairable. Why the f$#@ have they start to remove the oil level gauge in some new cars and replaced it with a digital one??? why??? The the most annoying thing with never cars is the constant hassel of expensive software and hardware, diagnostic issues and the need for programming new parts when replacing them. Modern cars has more than enough computing power to include all these features within the vehicle though a service menu on some screen, or a usb c connection where you can do all the same things from a laptop. The only reason we are stuck with today's solution is money and the greedy car manufacturers
Very informative. I wish you included video of engine actually running and your gauges showing pressure. What happens if your engine is designed to run on 0W20 oil and you put 5W40? Is there possibility of damage? What happens to oil pressure? Will tighter clearances prevent proper bearing lubrication? Thanks, just subscribed. Expecting exciting content in the future.
Most, if not all engines speced for a very thin oil like xW-20 or -16 have not been completely redesigned in order to last as long as they would otherwise on the correct oil viscosity. Thicker oil will increase the oil pressure and it won't cause damage as all engines have a pressure relief valve that sets the maximum oil pressure, independent of viscosity. Tigher clearances would be great if manufacturers actually wanted to produce engines that last while using thin oil, but they have no incentive to do that as customers wouldn't have to buy a new car as often if they lasted.
Thank you for the video, but may I suggest improvement , because this video data set is very important. Your video edit should include a second window showing oil pressures at all times. The part where you mentioned 10 PSI engine oil pump pressure and resulting of 5 PSI elsewhere is not shown. Also the gauge in use is a BAR, so best speak in BAR and PSI, but not PSI only. I know you want American audience, but you have metric countries audience too, so always use BAR and PSI. At 3:48 it showed 1.4 BAR ( 20.3 PSI ) at oil pump, 1.1 BAR (15.95 PSI ) at filter housing and cylinder head, which is the only section of the video showing the complete oil pressure data based on the 20 PSI scenario. At 4:42 it showed 1.65 BAR ( 23.93 PSi ) at oil pump, almost 1.3 BAR ( 18.8 PSI ) at engine block and a bit lower at 1.2 BAR ( 17.4 PSI ) it seems at cylinder head..... which has glare and I can't read exact pressure. At 5:40 when you mentioned oil pressure at engine block and cylinder head under 5 PSI, where the engine oil pump section supposedly at 10 PSI... the video is zoomed out so much, I can't see the real BAR reading of all 3 gauges. I blame the editing here, as at 5:31 the video shows oil pressure being reduced to achieve 10 PSI at the oil pump, but its not complete yet down to 10 PSI......and its gone by 5:33 . Uggghh what a waste of precious information. Best you make a table as summary for end of the video to show all 3 gauges value using engine oil pump pressure as reference. Oil pump pressure at 25 PSI >> 20 PSI >> 15 PSI and 10 PSI. Only 4 data lines on the table, clear sweet and simple. Redo Part2 of this video to show better data would be great... thank you so much.
You're right in line with engineers & mechanics here in the U.S. (thanks for using the Imperial System!) That's why I got my wife a 2.5L petrol engine Sportage! We're very happy with its performance: two-and-a-half years of flawless experience!!!
You might not need high oil pressure at idle but you need high oil pressure when under heavy load at near idle speed. Variable output/displacement oil pumps add the type of complexity that is the enemy of reliability.
It wasn't politics that destroyed German engines! Plastic did, as planned by car manufacturers when they realized they won't sell as many new cars if old cars don't die.
Thank you Sir! For the confirmation. I always suspected that UPGRADE would greatly benefit longevity of my engines. Upgrading one thing creates weak links in other areas
I recently learned that Ford installed a FAKE oil pressure gauge in many of their vans. The low oil pressure switch was designed for an idiot light, but Ford used a gauge, wired so the needle sits at about 2/3, which looks acceptable. All these years (my van is a 1998) my "oil pressure" has been rock steady, because it was a FAKE reading, indicating only adequate pressure. Should have installed an aftermarket sensor & gauge.
Gauges like that might tell you when to switch from 0W-20 to 10W-30 weight oil. Many manufacturers actually recommend higher viscosity oil in the summer, and lower viscosity in the winter, for just those reasons.
The SAE recommendations are based on ambient temperature. They suggest VASTLY higher viscosity oil than manufacturers. eg SAE40 for temperatures above 15C/59F.
Cars nowadays suck in a hundred different ways, this is just one small part of the problem. I'm happy driving with my Saab 900 Turbo. With the gearbox upgrade I am doing around 6l/100km on 95E10. That's efficient and this engine has done 300k without breaking a sweat so far.
@@1873Winchester lots of work glad i have zero maintenance almost on my Tesla. And that's a modern car that has been more reliable than my reliable previous Japanese cars.
I think using a simple aspirated reliable otto engine plus an electric motor is the best approach for reliability and low consumption. Toyota, Renault and some Chinese automakers already launched a multitude of such cars, very reliable and with low consumption. I don't understand what is keeping the German automakers to do the same
Greed, in summary. My dream car is a hybrid of electric and gas turbine. The absolute downside of a turbine is that it uses almost as much fuel on idle as when at full rpm, but since it only would be used to drive the generator when needed, that's not an issue.... and as seen in the M1 Abrams, it is a trivial task to make them multifuel.
Honestly it sounds more like bean counting being the problem and not downsizing. Every time one of these engines fail, its because someone decided to save money on a tiny part thats crucial to the engine. Chain tensioners, high pressure fuel pumps, oil pumps, bearings, etc.
That's exactly why I drive Toyota/Lexus hybrids. Not very fast but it has a 1,8 low power engine with an Atkinson cycle and an electromotor. This engine is never overstressed
long? Lol i won't service my Tesla when it's over 100.000km and i spend 0 euro on maintenance yet. Got winter and summer tires them together should last 100K km easily. So probably have zero euro maintenance up to 100K. Ah wait. i do have to fill wiper fluid and replace my wipers soon. And interior filter. But that's it.
@Lonewolf-kw8gg There's an Australian machinist youtube channel that makes me laugh, he measures things in units of banana-lengths laid end to end for the American audience 😆
Most taxis in Romania are Dacia Sandero equipped with a 3 cylinder 1 liter turbocharged engine. Sanderos going strong after reaching 500000 km are a common sight.
Low tension piston rings, lower oil pressure is why engines will give up the ghost sooner than necessary since they are essentially ‘high mileage’ from the get go. Putting low tension piston rings in is equivalent to putting ones in from a worn out junker engine.
German "precision ENGINEERING" has managed to design cars which will fail catastrophically just outside the warranty period. I'll keep repairing my "old" car rather than buy anything new.
My wife and I are planning to fully restore both my 1998 Ford Ranger and her 2002 Toyota Camry. Neither are perfect, as all vehicles have at least minor flaws, but these two have been solid and reliable. We'll never, ever buy a new (or even newer) vehicle; they're designed to fail (most modern automobile engines cannot be bored oversize and rebuilt. The cylinder walls are too thin).
Have you ever been to China/India? That smog. My God i couldn't breath when i went to there i was kinda shocked. Glad in my place where i live in Europe it is not like this. Now look at Thailand having these massive problems with Smog. Enjoy bro enjoy the smog. Nobody likes it for real.
Honda 1.5 turbo 2019 FK7 86k kilometres with no issues at all. It is a reliable engine anybody can say anything. Change oil every 6-8000 km not 15000 KMs. L15B7 is a very good and reliable engine!
Soft piston rings that allow petrol to mix into oil, wet rubber timing belts and turbo poorly lubricated consecuently...do we need anymore to destroy any engine so to produce more CO2 by making a new whole car? Oh, it's a yes of course, because we reciclate most of it and that process neither contaminate at all... JUST to drop petrol comsumption by 0,2 liters compared to a japanese atmosferic usual engine. Furthermore over EuroIV or V, engine revolutions must be on idle from beginning, adding low flow when the oil is the coolest forcing you to inmediatly throttle manually over 1k or start driving asap We've all become crazy here in Europe|
20psi at idle a lot of pressure, engines that are designed to can run sub 1bar at idle at 100C also my Honda K24 engine has 0.3bar oil supply to the head before VTEC is engaged and they last nearly 1mil kms so it depends on the engine and the design/architecture.
Little high reving engines are immediately more susceptible to higher wear & tear damage compared to larger lower reving engines doing the same amount of work. Physics are physics. They keep putting more and more widgets on engines that also increases the number of moving parts which in turn increases chances of failures.
My 2023 Subaru BRZ idles at 5 psi when engine is at operating temperature around 180 F. At the start, when the engine is cold it idles at 100 psi. It has such a large range depending on the oil temperature. This viscosity Subaru recommends is 0w20. What should I do to protect my engine? Should I got to higher viscosity oil. If I upgrade the oil pump per your recommendation I will have even higher pressure than 100 at the cold start?
the key point of governments is to REDUCE the pollution IN CITIES, where lots of cars are dumping their fumes. It doesn't matter to the governments that a new engine is needed every 50,000 mile or km; or even 10,000. As long as the pollution does NOT happen inside a city. Besides, a new engine is always good news for any government, as it takes more taxes out of us
Ask Norway-> The city of Oslo has seen massive MEASURED actually air quality going up like crazy after the city now is only full with electric cars. So it does help. It's not just theoretical proof, it's measured factual proof.
@@HermanWillems yes, agreed. but that EV move did NOT help the city of Oslo with anything besides a LOT of SPENDINGS on new infrastructure and new vehicles, just for a better smelling air. Next, the city of Oslo needs to ban certain foods that make you fart and pollute the city's air. Did city of Oslo also ban the use of Outdoor Patio Heaters? Did city of Oslo also ban the use of cigarettes? Did city of Oslo also ban the use of Vapes? Did city of Oslo also ban people to keep their windows open while at the same time using their indoor heating? All of the above are more dangerous than ICE cars emissions. Did city of Oslo also ban people to have a Pet? (1/3 of all fish fished from seas go into manufacturing food for pets) shall I go on pointing to some people's hypocrisy?
After owning 6 Mercedes-Benz, both gasoline and diesel, the reliability factor, the availability of parts, and rising cost of operation has pushed me away from the manufacturer. When driving Mercedes, I was on a first name bases with four mechanics. Today, I still drive an ICE car, but it's not made by Mercedes, I don't know much about the mechanic that services my car, and I don't see him that often. Do I enjoy driving my present car as much as I did the Mercedes? No! And, I don't care about it like I did the Mercedes. It's a Prius.
The only information the EPA requires be on the new car sticker is the estimated MPG. They don't care how long the engine may last, or how much it may cost to repair. With EPA insisting only on higher MPG, the auto manufacturers jump though hoops to get estimated MPG up, with no concern for other things such as life on engine.
The issues is people want bigger more fuel efficient cars with bells and whistles so they get heavy. The end result is small engine with bigger turbo. Higher boost meaning higher power but also higher force on the bearings. On top of that, thinner oil to reduce internal resistance making the wearing even faster.
It amazes me that we, as consumers, have to deal with the fallout of these crap engines, my wife's mini has already gone through two N14 piles of shyte in 130 000 km. Why do the manufacturers not have to take responsibility for poor products? Why must we pay every time? No more german cars for me! I have a Mitsubishi Pajero that has done 250 000 km and is still going strong!
Because we 1) don't put our politrickians to the wall and demand better laws without exemptions for various big business special interests (check Louis Rossmann and the right to repair). 2) keeps buying shit products because they are have a brand. 3) defend assholes and buy their narratives "companies must make a profit, so it is OK to screw the buyers".
Ive had this argument with an oil guy and he says thst psi is not equal to flow, thinner oils flow more volume of oil and the pressure is basically irrelevant.
Well he’s not completely wrong (as in the pressure is not a leading number) but all oil pumps are fixed volume pumps (even if adjustable, it is still a fixed volume per rotation) so the flow stays the same whatever the viscosity of the oil is. There is a case where your oil guy is right, that is if the car regulates the oil flow based on pressure. In that case lower viscosity oil would result in more flow but I’m not sure if thats being done that way.
Usually the good Japanese engines are not small. Mazda doesn't make smaller then a 1,5 liter I4. And that is in the Mazda2 where the competition is running 0,9 -1.3l engines. Mazda uses extreme high compression ratio with atkinson ish cycle to make them more efficient. Toyota usually does hybrids with a 1.8 liter Atkinson cycle petrol engine. These have very low torque and very long service life. The low torque problem is solved with an electric motor in the gearbox. The only Japanese brand that went with the downscale solution is Suzuki. And true they are the one of the few brands that got downsizing right.
If you could recommend automotive brands that produce appropriately sized / quality oil pumps in their base powertrains, it would be greatly appreciated!
From a Former Car Mechanic I can safe to say that they do be getting weaker by the time. And I am unsure if its due to the cost cutting of the Engine by the Brand. Or by the government that places regulations on such engines,slowly killing them and making them seem unreliable. I am unsure what my oil pressure is in my i30N but she hasn't broken down on me since I bought her and no engine issues. I suppose that I dive my cars properly as well as doing maintenance on regular basis.
It "depends on the car", but - generally - YES. There's some new Toyota's out in Australia with a lot of engine failures - because they're running 0w-20 factory default (for European "emissions standards"). As soon as people change to 5w-40 the lifespan is fine.
@@OhSoddit If people followed the SAE recommendation they would be using 20w50 or higher for Australian conditions. 0w20 is only recommended for temperatures below -30C.
The vw 1.6 liter diesel in my a3 7 years ago was at least 0,5 liters more frugal per 100km in my commute than the 2.0 golf 8 115 tps tdi I had after. Deiving every day. mostly country roads, bit of town, bit of motorway. Prefered the Audi.
The German companies did it to themselves. Mazda puts large engines in their cars and still fulfills the same requirements. Or Toyota does well with their tried and tested hybrids.
Mazda specifically made the almost useless MX30 just so they can stay within carbon requirements and still be able to sell larger engines on their other models. I say useless because reviewers have noted its abysmal electric range.
Wrong, then why Mazda is so expensive and the sales of Mazda are also very low in Europe. Please take your nonsense somewhere else. Yes Toyota does better. But actually do have lower emissions because of the special hybrid drivetrain. Especially for city driving.
Japanese manufacturers had small powerfull engines 50 years ago, some 60 years ago. Never had serious problems. I have seen Toyota minivan 990cc and 150HP build in 90s clocking 250,000km. Not a single problem. First Civic had 600cc and lots of HP, no problems. Germany has becomed new US where board of directors and CEO are sucking money out of corporations withouth taking any responsability for their bad decisions. Simple as that.
Because American markets and viewers are the standard unfortunately. The world is used to converting from imperial to metric in their heads, but Americans haven't even heard of the metric system yet.
Stop-start bullshit doesn’t help either. Oil pressure drops every time the engine stops and then it’s required to drive off at the lights instantaneously as the engine starts again.
I'm honestly glad my car doesn't have that shit
@@ywtv6you can disable it changing the modes on many cars, if not I wouldn't purchase that car 😅
@@ywtv6My Mercedes sprinter work van has it but there’s a button to turn it off, which I do 👍🏼
But why cant the oil pump still run? Doesnt cars with theses systems have a decent battery?
@@martinsv9183the pump is on the accesory belt, very few i.c.e cars have an electric oil pump
Which is why I just bought a Mazda 3 with understressed 2.5 NA engine, timing chain,torque converter auto. Proven reliability.
Skyactive nonsense included?
@ Proven reliable for many years now. First introduced in 2011.
Except those 2.5 engines are trash that craps out before 100k kms.
@ What drugs are you on ?
Same here, just bought a Mazda 3 earlier this month, but mine is the 2.0 manual
Should have named the video : "How greedy accountants and shareholders with massive short term incentive bonuses destroyed the german car industry" . Accountants know the price of everything and the value of nothing
Do you work for the government? Wake up, EV MANDATES BY THE GOVERNMENT forcing every manufacturer to make ICE engines smaller and smaller, in order to reduce overall emissions to avoid fines.
It is driven by environmental regulations more than accountants.
@@user-xu5vl5th9n No it's not. You can get a clean burning engine without downsizing
I agree with user-xu….
It’s not just about clean burning - it’s also, and mostly, about the CO2 panic among our so called leaders…
@@runepedersenDKthe policy makers in Europe are a bunch of clowns
Missed a key point: if an engine does not last it is not only bad for the owner it is a disaster for the environment. Typically the car will be scrapped and another car needs to be purchased. Also the efficiency of these engines is over-stated on paper as they are designed to be "cycle beaters", i.e. give good results in the official tests. The difference between official fuel economy figures and actual MPG has increased over time.
Green transition is a total scam
factor in the cost of maintenance involved for the greater fuel efficiency & the user ends up paying triple to go an extra 1.1 miles per gallon. And it signs off early to boot.
Now you're in line to buy the even MORE 'efficient' model. Which will fail even sooner.
The whole "Green" bullshit is just business as usual for a handful of rich individuals who set the political rules according to their investments. There is nothing green with blowing up eco engines or with EV´s that require massive amounts of natural reserves + all mined using child labor and those batteries die withing a couple of years... The best green act is to drive your old car until it dies.
Ohhh, these ecoterrorist not that smart to think trough this. :) They can only think here and now. They think the EV is the best solution, but not considering how much it costs to the environment to replace an already working car with a new one. Just because it's EV.
@@rocko44444444 It is super green to tear the Bolivian salt flats up as well to make a battery that may need to be replaced within a decade or less.
A car that lasts 200k, is better for the environment than one that only lasts 100k, and gets 2MPG better. politician activist types will never understand this.
I completely agree. Policymakers aren't looking at the big picture, or don't actually care about the environment
Current modern Tesla Model 3 and Y, are still brand new after 200k miles. The LFP versions can even last 1 million miles. That's the power of not having so many parts and not having much parts that even do wear out.
@@InfiniteRemoteControl If you look at the bigger picture you should look at EV's. They have the potential to last extremely long. With little to no wear. I know people with Tesla's 3/Y that have 100K miles on them. And the only thing they changed is tires, wiper blades and interior filter and wiper fluid. That's it.
Evidence and calculation required. Inhalation of nox, sox, partitions etc
@@HermanWillems agreed, and we should invest in charging infrastructure to speed up the adoption
Some asian brands chose other paths instead of downsizing.
Yes, politics created the issue, but German manufacturers chose the wrong path, and I work for one of them.
Yes politicians has put pressure on manufacturers to do lots of things that would never been done just a couple of decades ago, it’s false economy but stupid politicians with university degrees that has now idea about engines decide these things, it’s disgusting and will be disastrous, anyway they don’t even care as long as they thing they are «green».
not really, there was no other path than dowsizing, since eu laws are strictly c02 grams per km without other reference, for example in the usa bigger vehicles have lower tolerances, so manufacturers simply stopped making small cars
they all are going the same direction, EU, US and asian makers. Small displacement, boosted engines with loads of plastics to save weight.
@ That’s not true. Toyota & Mazda for example have normal size engines and atmospheric options in big part of their lineups Worldwide
Everyone now is 4 cylinder
Mercedes always had an oil pressure gauge up until the E-class w124 and S w140. Used to be above 2 bar on idle.
It was removed in the w202, w210 and w220... for some reason.. and never came back. Those cars still had really good engines though.
We need oil pressure gauges again. Most cars had them in the 1980s, some in the 1990s, but not many since 2000s. They were good for auto industry too because you could see pressure drop. Pressure drop by 20% at idle means you need to change oil filter.
Until 1990 there was big competition to have a reliable engine. They're moved their focus.
And super quiet locking with vacuum, not like the solenoid CLANK the other cars use.. it sounds cheap, and annoying.
@ Agree completely.
My 1982 240D has it, I don't know too much about what value should the engine run at, it's mostly pegged at 3 bar, sometimes it drops at 2.2-2.5, but when it drops below 2.0 I sense that there is something wrong
Unfortunately, engine life is dictated entirely on piston rings, as they are simultaneously the largest contributor to friction in the engine, as well as being one of very few components that are impossible to lubricate effectively to avoid wear. Even more unfortunate is that over the years, manufacturers have started using smaller, thinner, and lower-pressure piston rings to improve fuel economy, leading to shorter piston ring lifespan.
This upload just made a bad morning into the best morning in weeks brother man. Thank you for the hard work for such well researched content! Your experiment needs to explode on RUclips!
thanks man, really appreciate it
@@MIK-Motoren-INT Of course! You have a guaranteed viewer and subber here, you actually took the time to do the proper experiments to find your answer. 90% of other RUclipsrs just make a commentary and that's it. You actually break down the science so well with physical/viewable tests, you'd be an amazing teacher! If your upgraded oil pump comes out for the M113/M113K/M112/M112K, I'd buy it too. I'm sharing your video on the forums if that's okay?
That would be awesome, thanks a lot mate 👍
I watch VAGTechnic on RUclips, he specialises in Audi. They found a lot of engine failures due to low oil pressure at idle, wrecking the camshaft bearing and starving the cam followers of oil and failing - dropping valves. Their solution is to hack into the engine management software, alter the oil pressure solenoid setting to double the factory idle setting. As they say saving polar bears is very expensive for the motorist.
Very interesting. I searched the VAGtechnic channel for "oil pressure" and most video's seem to be about big TDI engines if I'm correct. This suggests that low oil pressure is mainly a diesel engine related problem or is this not true?
Big diesel engines are likely more affected by this because their high torque at low rpm makes it easier for them to break the oil film and wreck the bearings. But in general, for sure this is a problem on all modern engines, especially with bypass valves on the oil pumps to reduce engine load at idle/low rpm only to get better scores in WLTP testing @@DMB_D1
And it should be
@@DMB_D1that's probably because Audi almost only sells those engines in germany. The typical Audi is sold to companies as a fleet car. Same goes for the VW Passat and a lot of Mercedes and BMWs
Not only german engines.... american, japanese, french engines especially 1 liter turbocharged engine.
Electromagnetic Engines don't have this problem.
@@HermanWillems Whats that? Ev motor? People are even less knowledgable about those making it much easier for companies to disregard consumers and work for profit and government requirements so likley same issues will happen, and for people who do know the companies have too much control and would lock them out using the electonics. Just as bad for the environment when they get sold and scrapped after 5 years of use, unless youre talking about something else.
1:12 I love how when people demonstrate “pollution” it’s always these steam vents
The problem is that most pollution coming out of pipes from factories and everything. Other stuff im not talking about CO2, but they are invisible but very harmful. But humans are stupid, they "MUST SEE" something to believe it. They don't like invisible danger and just take the easy way: "AH i don't see it so i don't believe it" route. Which is a sign of very very low IQ. And human eyesight is based on electromagnetic waves... not just that. Only a super narrow band of it. We are practically BLIND.
idk how I got here but now I need to check my oil pressure
This are happening on the 3.0 tdi V6 audi a6 c8 models (new generation). Audi decided to make a low demand on oil pressure at idle and low rpm by phasing out a little the cam shafts in order to specify the desire emissions. But that phasing out are creating a too premature gear worn, phasing out the cams even wider and rattling it for timming chains worned, oval cams etc. So the preventative measure is programming the oil pump at its maximum through the entire rpm, to not make adjusters phasing the cams.
Reliability has nothing to do with engine size. The problem is German manufacturers are now using cheap plastic components
Extreme cost savings can reduce the price of a car by 5 %. The end result is more frequent repair and in the end a much shorter life span. You therefore need to buy two cheap cars, in order to get the life-time of one quality car. A generale rule for ALL items- not just for cars.
smaller engines need to be under more stress to make the same power as a larger engine
@@flemmingqvist8326 Plastic parts are not cost saving measure, they are weight saving feature.
@@danielduggan7126 yeah, its why the toyota 2e has under 50 horsepower per litre and is so reliable, the pressure in the cylinder is so low that it doesnt stress the engine at all
You won't get far with plastic pistons and crankshaft and piston rings and bearing shells and con rods and engine block and heads.
The truth is the higher the specific output the lower the durability.With the exception of torque made by stroke leverage which is effectively free power.
I have been wondering why not use aux electric pump - You will start the engine with oil pressure already build in. And should be also able to boost the pressure at idle wile not consuming ton of energy.
cost and another failure point. also electrics and oil are never reliable. I had to fix several voltage regulators on Hitachi alternators that had a vacuum pump lubricated by engine oil attached to the back. The oring seal would start to leak oil and it would slowly get into the alternator electronics causing havoc
Has to do with overall efficiency. The load on the engine is so low at idle, that there isn't a need for so much pressure. Starting and stopping isn't an issue. However, depending on usage case, such as these turbo charged engines, oil squirters are necessary to hit under the pistons to keep temperatures even. So if you come off the highway and sit at a red light, the lower pressure and volume of oil is insufficient. Heat kills engines, and lack of oil flow and pressure only builds heat. Cams, lifters, and pistons are most affected, as most of their components are oiled indirectly, unlike the bearings.
@@danielpedro77 "cost and another failure point."
Since you use electrical pumps to keep the pressure in pipelines, refineries and so forth, we can eliminate the whole "electrics and oil are never reliable".
It is only a matter of correct construction, which of course prevents cutting important corners to save a few bucks. If we learned anything from the Ford Pinto, it is that the management doesn't care what happens as long as they don't have to pay for it themselves.
@@StanleyBillsman Are you talking about Tesla?
@@johanmetreus1268 I replaced many electrical components ruined by diesel or oil. no matter the quality of the seal, it will eventually get brittle/hard and start to leak in minimal amount, sometimes it's not even visible, but fluids spread and find their way into the nearest electrics. also you can't compare static to mobile mechanics, the vibration from a hard suspension or an old IDI diesel ruins so much stuff
There are older engines that run far below 20 psi at idle, and last a very long time. The Subaru EA series for instance only runs at around 10 psi at idle hot, on a newly rebuilt engine. I've had multiple of these with over 400,000 miles on them and still running perfectly. There are four key differences between this engine and a modern one. It is a pushrod engine. There are no bearings in the cylinder heads. Only rocker arms. The lifters are solid flat tappets. There is no timing chain. Only two solid gears at the rear of the engine. And the oil required is a 10w-50 or 15w-50, not a 0w-8 or 0w-16. Thicker oil and much less oil demand in the engine. The only things that need direct oiling are the bearings, the camshaft and lifters (for rocker arm oiling only). Minimum oil pressure at idle for this engine is only 5 psi. And it will run that way for many hundreds of thousands of miles, as long as the correct viscosity of oil is used. The other key difference is this engine does not make much torque at low speed. All of the usable power is above 3700 RPM, where the oil pressure is between 50-90 psi depending on oil temperature. So because the engine does not make enough torque to be run at below 3000 RPM, and the cars that it is installed in are geared very low, the engine is never under load at low speed, where the oil pressure is lower.
That is an interesting thought
Low rpm = low oil pressure
Not ideal for heavy work 🤔
This explains a lot about some downsized turbo engines with peak torque at ridiculous low rpm. So, we end up with High load, low oil pressure on them?
Most modern engines don't even have an oil pressure sensor and just have a pressure switch that activates at a very low pressure, often between 3-7 psi to verify idle oil pressure. With the exception of the very latest engines that manufacturers are specifying very thin oils like xW-20, -16, or -8, most modern engines (with chain driven roller tappet DOHC) that use normal oil viscosities like xW-30 or -40 have no problem with low oil pressure at idle and even high torque at low RPM with a turbocharger. The problem isn't the engines themselves, but the manufacturers intentionally using the incorrect oil viscosity to sqeeze out that last bit of fuel economy for government tests.
Chrysler K-car engines, the 2.2 and 2.5L 4 cylinders, are SOHC engines with 5 bearings up top on the cam. The oil pressure switch that turns on the oil pressure warning light is calibrated to 5 psi. Hot idle you'll see 7-12 psi on a rebuild. I had one with 375,000km on it that I retired only because I got bored of it and wanted something newer (with AC!)
If you're implying that engines don't need to have overhead cams, I partially disagree. I think that SOHC is necessary, or at least strongly beneficial, but that DOHC is mostly useless for a road car. You don't need to be able to time intake and exhaust separately in relation to each other if you design your cam correctly for your head characteristics and operating range. The only thing I can see DOHC useful for is if you want to switch between fake Atkinson-cycle and normal operation, but even then, I believe that can be accomplished with a secondary intake lobe similar to how Honda runs Vtec on the J series V6 engines.
I had big troubles finding a car with a good reliable engine. Did not want small 3 cylinder turbocharged engines. Also wanted a reliable automatic gearbox. A lot of search was needed. I ended up with a Mazda CX-5 with a 2,5 l naturally aspirated gasoline engine with a very smooth shifting and reliable 6 speed automatic gearbox. There could be others equally good, but in todays carmarket they are very rare gems - not easy to find. Honda CR-V is supposed to be a very similar car by looks, but with all the unvanted technical details, including a CVT gear. But the Mazda still gives a better milage compared with the Honda. Happy that there still are a few serious car manufactures.
I also ended up with the cx-5 in 2.0 guise for the same reason. Good choice ! Wishing you many happy km/miles
i have a cx9 nearly 100k no issues, your choice is spot on , 2.5 and no cvt, Mazda still builds with pride in their products.
If you really want reliable get a high quality EV. No combustion engine or transmission to break. Near zero maintenance.
@riceman78 I've got a new mazda 6 2.5 turbo gt
An equivalent tesla would have cost 60% more.
I would like to keep my car for 20 years. I don't think the tesla would last that long.
I occasionally go for long drives of up to 6 hours at highway speeds, the tesla would require more stops that I would like.
EVs aren't for everyone.
@@riceman78 Different technologies just gives different problems. Some high quality brands ICE cars, gives the user a very reliable car and long lifespan without severe break-down. EV cars have come a long way, in the last 10 years. And many owners have a good car too, for many years. But EV cars are not a guarante for trouble-free driwing. The life -cycle for an EV car is generally shorter for different reasons.
correct me if I am wrong but the problem is not the small displacement itself but displacement + heavy weight. AFAIK Suzuki has been making light turbocharged vehicles since forever, and they considered being reliable.
My ford focus with the NA 2.0 motor has been excellent. Still runs great at 310 000kms. I have a volkswagon 2014 2.0 tdi as well that runs great at 212 000kms. My heater core plugged anyhow.
The pre 2016 Volkswagon TSI motors are notorious for consuming oil and eating timing chains if not maintained meticuously. The explanation in this vid makes sense as to why they do.
I always have 6 cylinder engines
Either BMW or Mercedes
250 thousand miles no problem
And about $25k in repairs and maintenance…..from a fellow bmw owner!
0:54 Ah yes, exactly how I want my car: ellijunt
I like your video,
Another issue that plagues many manufactures nowadays is premature bore wear and higher oil consumption due to direct injection systems bore washing. Take a look at the new turbocharged Honda engines.
Honda had such a good track record of reliability, now with their new engines that's not the case anymore.
I agree, I prefer no direct injection. but people want power. My car is 20 years old. and I did in December myself the rocker arms adjustment, and I was able to inspect the valves, "I was impressed". beautiful clean. I have a Honda jazz year 2005. with 184k miles on it. As your mention the new Hondas are coming with those motors and they put me off lol. I don have interest in powerful motor, my interest is lifespan.
This is why I decided to go with a simple multipoint fuel injected normally aspirated Kia.
Just sold a 300,000km car which was going strong on all original running gear. Oil changed mid service throughout its time with me. BMW M57TU30 three litre diesel. Also still running a three litre petrol with 125,000km and when recently serviced was the cleanest engine the garage had seen, doesn't use any oil at all. BMW S54. Both engines are terrific.
Not going to be touching any 3 or 4 cylinder turbo cars, ever.
Great video!
Have had a Subaru WRX 2000 model now 25 years old with over 425,000 kms, original 4 cylinder turbo motor, original manual gearbox etc. Oil is changed every 6 months. This motor has hit the rev limiter hundreds of times. My fathers Peugeot 504 4 cylinder had 780,000 kms on the original motor and still going strong. Don’t think it’s the number of cylinders that gives longevity but the way people look after their cars. Agree that environmental regulations are choking ICE engines to death.
@@Wacko2-wrx Haven't seen a 'Bugeye' Subaru WRX on the road in decades. lol.
All melted or crashed I guess, like 600/750 sportbikes. You are the exception.
A badly/cheaply designed engine dies for various reasons one of them is "Planned obsolescence".
B58 bmw engine specs 0W20LL. Running it sounds like a diesel. Changed to 0W30LL, much quieter and fuel economy is about the same . I assume pressures are higher.
5w40 all the way, clearances are the same as in engines from 2005, only reason for 0w16, 0w20 and 0w30 is fuel economy
@@dinkoprotrka1445 0w20 engine internal clearances are much tighter than engine that runs on 5w40. Switching to thicker oil will lead to shorter life.
@@senco981 no, check tolerances of new engines from bmw, mercedes, toyota both diesel and petrol they stayed pretty much the same bit thinner oils appeared, they appeared only because of new emissiom norms, same reason why low tension piston rings are used from 2010, and low penalties for companies recomending 30k km service intervals those 3 are recepie for oil burning rod knocking engines.....i see them all the time (more on new diesels)
I change the oil at 5000km 0w20, in Canada we have very cold weather so modern 0w20 seems appropriate...
@@LawrenceMacMacster 0w, 5w is the number concerning cold weather, latter number is oil viscosity at 100c, your engine runs at the same operating temp as the engine in lets say very hot weather....so i would still recomend 0w40 or 5w40
Long time ago, literally in another century. I started tunning one of my old air cooled VW engines. In total I had 6 of them!
Due to cost constraints I couldn't afford go all the way into it at once. So it was done in several easy (cheap) steps.
Guess what, first thing to be improved. High flow oil pump and oil filter system. All wrapped up with a decent oil pressure gauge. I was young and poor, but not stupid. LOL 🙂
In retrospective that combination saved the engine quite a few times!
German cars have been horrendously unreliable for a long time now. Poor design and the use of materials not fit for purpose do not help matters. The most unreliable vehicle I have ever owned was German. It was not particularly high mileage and was even worse than the cheap beaten up high mileage cars that I had when young. I will never buy another German Vehicle.
Had two German cars a golf head gasket went drive shaft wore out plus many other faults and an a6 3 litre v6 Audi broke down on way home from garage I bought it from my alfa 159 had it for 6 years now no bother same as my subaru legacy brilliant cars
Vw after 2008 hadn’t been reliable
@ They are working out how to build the unreliability that they are so famous for into ev's, it's a challenge I am sure that German manufacturers can rise to !!!
My A4 B9 2.0 TDI Ultra (so the less stressed version with only 150HP) was the worst car I ever owned. It was only 5 years old with 78K KMs when I got rid of it. The engine was OK, but the rest of the car was garbage. I have never seen a car where the tail lights have failed twice after only 3 years lol. Gearbox couldn't go into 1st gear when cold sometimes (known issue but Audi couldn't fix it). MMI would crash randomly while on the highway and I needed GPS... TBH even a Clio is better Quality for the price, the A4 felt so cheap. The leather seats started to wear after 5 years and I really took good care of the car...
0w-20 oil could be replaced with 5W-30 for a gain in viscosity thereby increasing oil pressure? The additive package would need to match though.
It’s an old technique to keep a dying engine running more quietly.
Simple philosophy... Exert more pressure over reduced surface area = accelerated wear! 🤷
Many people rev the engine too high when the engine is cold, I see this all the time with my neighbours racing up the road in the morning. My own car, a BMW 520d will have to drive for at least 6-7 minutes before the water temperature reach the operating temp. Also the start stop system is not good for an engine, on my car the only way to switch it off is to select sport mode, I do this every time I drive. Also too many short drives where the car is switched off before reaching temperature is not optimal, I sometimes drive a longer trip than I need to just to get the temperature up, before I park the car.
Choose a small capacity engine with minimum oil quantity for short trips; engine warms up very quickly but regular oil changes are a must with engines of small sump capacity.
@@petesmitt And large capacity engine for highway? So, I need two cars?
Who do you think I am? Jeff Bezos?
@ You may be surprised to know that there are people who only do local trips; obviously, if you also do long trips, then my advice is not for you..
You assume manufacturers want to improve the longevity of their engines instead of selling planned obsolesce products so they can sell more.
You don’t understand what planned obsolescence means.
Hooray! I didn't know you had channel speaking English!
I admit I had trouble following along sometimes because I don't understand German.
I love you guys. I love your balance shaft delete kit/ oil pump upgrade for my gen1 FSI engine. Best kit on the market!!
100% recommend!
Agree 100%
Got a '07 Volvo S60 2,4 5 cyl whiteblock (B5244S2) - a relatively low power-output of 140HP from an almost indestructible engine 💪
I had a Volvo with D5 diesel engine with only 160hp, indestructible as well.
New Volvo engine is really awful 😞
Audi AAN is just as reliable and much more powerful. Five cylinders forever.
@ Rev up your cool and amazing sounding 5 cyl. engine 🙂Yep, 5 cyl. and V8 is the best imo.
Best video today, thank you! Next video I would like to see is how fast oil pressure changes durin start-stop function of EA888 gen 3 engine.
As the old saying goes. "There is no replacement for displacement".
We live in times were electronics and software is integrated in everything!!! As these evolve continuously at light speed and new features (some for the good, some nonsense) are added on every day, one has to question how much life expectancy one want to build in consumer goods???
Right track, wrong question. What is asked is "how short life expectancy can we provide and still get away with it?"
You forget the company greed and the constant push to make things overly complicated, more expensive and less repairable. Why the f$#@ have they start to remove the oil level gauge in some new cars and replaced it with a digital one??? why???
The the most annoying thing with never cars is the constant hassel of expensive software and hardware, diagnostic issues and the need for programming new parts when replacing them. Modern cars has more than enough computing power to include all these features within the vehicle though a service menu on some screen, or a usb c connection where you can do all the same things from a laptop. The only reason we are stuck with today's solution is money and the greedy car manufacturers
Very informative. I wish you included video of engine actually running and your gauges showing pressure.
What happens if your engine is designed to run on 0W20 oil and you put 5W40? Is there possibility of damage? What happens to oil pressure? Will tighter clearances prevent proper bearing lubrication? Thanks, just subscribed. Expecting exciting content in the future.
Most, if not all engines speced for a very thin oil like xW-20 or -16 have not been completely redesigned in order to last as long as they would otherwise on the correct oil viscosity. Thicker oil will increase the oil pressure and it won't cause damage as all engines have a pressure relief valve that sets the maximum oil pressure, independent of viscosity. Tigher clearances would be great if manufacturers actually wanted to produce engines that last while using thin oil, but they have no incentive to do that as customers wouldn't have to buy a new car as often if they lasted.
Thank you for the video, but may I suggest improvement , because this video data set is very important.
Your video edit should include a second window showing oil pressures at all times.
The part where you mentioned 10 PSI engine oil pump pressure and resulting of 5 PSI elsewhere is not shown.
Also the gauge in use is a BAR, so best speak in BAR and PSI, but not PSI only.
I know you want American audience, but you have metric countries audience too, so always use BAR and PSI.
At 3:48 it showed 1.4 BAR ( 20.3 PSI ) at oil pump, 1.1 BAR (15.95 PSI ) at filter housing and cylinder head, which is the only section of the video showing the complete oil pressure data based on the 20 PSI scenario.
At 4:42 it showed 1.65 BAR ( 23.93 PSi ) at oil pump, almost 1.3 BAR ( 18.8 PSI ) at engine block and a bit lower at 1.2 BAR ( 17.4 PSI ) it seems at cylinder head..... which has glare and I can't read exact pressure.
At 5:40 when you mentioned oil pressure at engine block and cylinder head under 5 PSI, where the engine oil pump section supposedly at 10 PSI... the video is zoomed out so much, I can't see the real BAR reading of all 3 gauges. I blame the editing here, as at 5:31 the video shows oil pressure being reduced to achieve 10 PSI at the oil pump, but its not complete yet down to 10 PSI......and its gone by 5:33 . Uggghh what a waste of precious information.
Best you make a table as summary for end of the video to show all 3 gauges value using engine oil pump pressure as reference. Oil pump pressure at 25 PSI >> 20 PSI >> 15 PSI and 10 PSI. Only 4 data lines on the table, clear sweet and simple.
Redo Part2 of this video to show better data would be great... thank you so much.
You're right in line with engineers & mechanics here in the U.S. (thanks for using the Imperial System!) That's why I got my wife a 2.5L petrol engine Sportage! We're very happy with its performance: two-and-a-half years of flawless experience!!!
That's why I chose a 2L timing belt Yamaha headed manual with 100hp per litre. 300,000km no issue.
You might not need high oil pressure at idle but you need high oil pressure when under heavy load at near idle speed.
Variable output/displacement oil pumps add the type of complexity that is the enemy of reliability.
I am tired of the "We've got twin turbos now!"
It wasn't politics that destroyed German engines! Plastic did, as planned by car manufacturers when they realized they won't sell as many new cars if old cars don't die.
Thank you Sir! For the confirmation. I always suspected that UPGRADE would greatly benefit longevity of my engines. Upgrading one thing creates weak links in other areas
JDM manufacturers: we just make sure the engine gets what it needs
I recently learned that Ford installed a FAKE oil pressure gauge in many of their vans. The low oil pressure switch was designed for an idiot light, but Ford used a gauge, wired so the needle sits at about 2/3, which looks acceptable. All these years (my van is a 1998) my "oil pressure" has been rock steady, because it was a FAKE reading, indicating only adequate pressure. Should have installed an aftermarket sensor & gauge.
Gauges like that might tell you when to switch from 0W-20 to 10W-30 weight oil. Many manufacturers actually recommend higher viscosity oil in the summer, and lower viscosity in the winter, for just those reasons.
The SAE recommendations are based on ambient temperature. They suggest VASTLY higher viscosity oil than manufacturers. eg SAE40 for temperatures above 15C/59F.
GX 460 driver here, bullitproof V8 power. Also drive a Tesla Mode lS 🥳🥳!!
Cars nowadays suck in a hundred different ways, this is just one small part of the problem. I'm happy driving with my Saab 900 Turbo. With the gearbox upgrade I am doing around 6l/100km on 95E10. That's efficient and this engine has done 300k without breaking a sweat so far.
Super 300k. How often you change the motor oil. ?
@@DGQ1Q2 Every 10k kilometers or every year, whichever comes first
@@1873Winchester lots of work glad i have zero maintenance almost on my Tesla. And that's a modern car that has been more reliable than my reliable previous Japanese cars.
I think using a simple aspirated reliable otto engine plus an electric motor is the best approach for reliability and low consumption. Toyota, Renault and some Chinese automakers already launched a multitude of such cars, very reliable and with low consumption. I don't understand what is keeping the German automakers to do the same
Greed, in summary.
My dream car is a hybrid of electric and gas turbine. The absolute downside of a turbine is that it uses almost as much fuel on idle as when at full rpm, but since it only would be used to drive the generator when needed, that's not an issue.... and as seen in the M1 Abrams, it is a trivial task to make them multifuel.
Honestly it sounds more like bean counting being the problem and not downsizing. Every time one of these engines fail, its because someone decided to save money on a tiny part thats crucial to the engine. Chain tensioners, high pressure fuel pumps, oil pumps, bearings, etc.
Respekt. Das Video auf englisch zu machen ist clever, aber bestimmt schwer. Viele Grüße aus Kanada.
That's exactly why I drive Toyota/Lexus hybrids. Not very fast but it has a 1,8 low power engine with an Atkinson cycle and an electromotor. This engine is never overstressed
Those long service intervals are also an issue, I mean 15,000 kms from VW (or 1 year) Mercedes 20,000kms or 2 years.
long? Lol i won't service my Tesla when it's over 100.000km and i spend 0 euro on maintenance yet. Got winter and summer tires them together should last 100K km easily. So probably have zero euro maintenance up to 100K. Ah wait. i do have to fill wiper fluid and replace my wipers soon. And interior filter. But that's it.
In Germany do they use Fahrenheit scale?
He's pandering to the American's 😂
@Lonewolf-kw8gg There's an Australian machinist youtube channel that makes me laugh, he measures things in units of banana-lengths laid end to end for the American audience 😆
Every country not USA, UK or Commonwealth uses metric and Celsius... and even the Brits are coming around.
Great video!! Keep up with the good work!
I've worked the last 10years as a mechanic in dealerships. Honestly never seen an engine at work break because of low oilpressure or worn bearings.
Most taxis in Romania are Dacia Sandero equipped with a 3 cylinder 1 liter turbocharged engine. Sanderos going strong after reaching 500000 km are a common sight.
As Americans like to say: "You wouldn't be having that problem with a V8.".
Low tension piston rings, lower oil pressure is why engines will give up the ghost sooner than necessary since they are essentially ‘high mileage’ from the get go. Putting low tension piston rings in is equivalent to putting ones in from a worn out junker engine.
My bmw S50 factory spec is 15psi at idle when the oil is warm.. no issue for the past 32 years.
German "precision ENGINEERING" has managed to design cars which will fail catastrophically just outside the warranty period. I'll keep repairing my "old" car rather than buy anything new.
My wife and I are planning to fully restore both my 1998 Ford Ranger and her 2002 Toyota Camry. Neither are perfect, as all vehicles have at least minor flaws, but these two have been solid and reliable. We'll never, ever buy a new (or even newer) vehicle; they're designed to fail (most modern automobile engines cannot be bored oversize and rebuilt. The cylinder walls are too thin).
To save the planet, galaxy, visible universe…😂
No, that is what the industry use as public excuse to screw the customers on behalf of the share holders.
Have you ever been to China/India? That smog. My God i couldn't breath when i went to there i was kinda shocked. Glad in my place where i live in Europe it is not like this. Now look at Thailand having these massive problems with Smog. Enjoy bro enjoy the smog. Nobody likes it for real.
Honda 1.5 turbo 2019 FK7 86k kilometres with no issues at all. It is a reliable engine anybody can say anything. Change oil every 6-8000 km not 15000 KMs. L15B7 is a very good and reliable engine!
Soft piston rings that allow petrol to mix into oil, wet rubber timing belts and turbo poorly lubricated consecuently...do we need anymore to destroy any engine so to produce more CO2 by making a new whole car? Oh, it's a yes of course, because we reciclate most of it and that process neither contaminate at all...
JUST to drop petrol comsumption by 0,2 liters compared to a japanese atmosferic usual engine.
Furthermore over EuroIV or V, engine revolutions must be on idle from beginning, adding low flow when the oil is the coolest forcing you to inmediatly throttle manually over 1k or start driving asap
We've all become crazy here in Europe|
20psi at idle a lot of pressure, engines that are designed to can run sub 1bar at idle at 100C also my Honda K24 engine has 0.3bar oil supply to the head before VTEC is engaged and they last nearly 1mil kms so it depends on the engine and the design/architecture.
Little high reving engines are immediately more susceptible to higher wear & tear damage compared to larger lower reving engines doing the same amount of work. Physics are physics. They keep putting more and more widgets on engines that also increases the number of moving parts which in turn increases chances of failures.
Good idea with a new pump - BUT, on many engines the oil pump pressure is controlled by the ECU and hence possible to re-map
My 2023 Subaru BRZ idles at 5 psi when engine is at operating temperature around 180 F. At the start, when the engine is cold it idles at 100 psi. It has such a large range depending on the oil temperature. This viscosity Subaru recommends is 0w20.
What should I do to protect my engine? Should I got to higher viscosity oil. If I upgrade the oil pump per your recommendation I will have even higher pressure than 100 at the cold start?
the key point of governments is to REDUCE the pollution IN CITIES, where lots of cars are dumping their fumes.
It doesn't matter to the governments that a new engine is needed every 50,000 mile or km; or even 10,000.
As long as the pollution does NOT happen inside a city.
Besides, a new engine is always good news for any government, as it takes more taxes out of us
Ask Norway-> The city of Oslo has seen massive MEASURED actually air quality going up like crazy after the city now is only full with electric cars. So it does help. It's not just theoretical proof, it's measured factual proof.
@@HermanWillems yes, agreed.
but that EV move did NOT help the city of Oslo with anything besides a LOT of SPENDINGS on new infrastructure and new vehicles, just for a better smelling air.
Next, the city of Oslo needs to ban certain foods that make you fart and pollute the city's air.
Did city of Oslo also ban the use of Outdoor Patio Heaters?
Did city of Oslo also ban the use of cigarettes?
Did city of Oslo also ban the use of Vapes?
Did city of Oslo also ban people to keep their windows open while at the same time using their indoor heating?
All of the above are more dangerous than ICE cars emissions.
Did city of Oslo also ban people to have a Pet?
(1/3 of all fish fished from seas go into manufacturing food for pets)
shall I go on pointing to some people's hypocrisy?
That’s why I love my AMG V8 NA from 2013❤
After owning 6 Mercedes-Benz, both gasoline and diesel, the reliability factor, the availability of parts, and rising cost of operation has pushed me away from the manufacturer. When driving Mercedes, I was on a first name bases with four mechanics. Today, I still drive an ICE car, but it's not made by Mercedes, I don't know much about the mechanic that services my car, and I don't see him that often. Do I enjoy driving my present car as much as I did the Mercedes? No! And, I don't care about it like I did the Mercedes. It's a Prius.
Not politics but actual manufacturer trying to be greedy and enforcing there products on people using regulations
Please no background noice.
So whats the relationship between oil pressure and engine downsizing?
It's not all down to pressure! Flow rate also plays a big part in the life of bearings!
Car weight and size have ballooned while manufacturers have chased both higher power outputs and efficiency.
Would changing oil viscosity help with oil pressure?
The only information the EPA requires be on the new car sticker is the estimated MPG. They don't care how long the engine may last, or how much it may cost to repair. With EPA insisting only on higher MPG, the auto manufacturers jump though hoops to get estimated MPG up, with no concern for other things such as life on engine.
This is why i got a Lexus gx460. NA V8, port injected, oversized, and unstressed. Hope it'll last me a couple decades.
The issues is people want bigger more fuel efficient cars with bells and whistles so they get heavy. The end result is small engine with bigger turbo. Higher boost meaning higher power but also higher force on the bearings. On top of that, thinner oil to reduce internal resistance making the wearing even faster.
It amazes me that we, as consumers, have to deal with the fallout of these crap engines, my wife's mini has already gone through two N14 piles of shyte in 130 000 km. Why do the manufacturers not have to take responsibility for poor products? Why must we pay every time? No more german cars for me! I have a Mitsubishi Pajero that has done 250 000 km and is still going strong!
Because we
1) don't put our politrickians to the wall and demand better laws without exemptions for various big business special interests (check Louis Rossmann and the right to repair).
2) keeps buying shit products because they are have a brand.
3) defend assholes and buy their narratives "companies must make a profit, so it is OK to screw the buyers".
Ive had this argument with an oil guy and he says thst psi is not equal to flow, thinner oils flow more volume of oil and the pressure is basically irrelevant.
Well he’s not completely wrong (as in the pressure is not a leading number) but all oil pumps are fixed volume pumps (even if adjustable, it is still a fixed volume per rotation) so the flow stays the same whatever the viscosity of the oil is. There is a case where your oil guy is right, that is if the car regulates the oil flow based on pressure. In that case lower viscosity oil would result in more flow but I’m not sure if thats being done that way.
What other engines are you planning to make upgraded oil pumps for?
Maybe use thicker oil? 10w60 that will raise the pressure and also ruin ur dpf😢
here I am enjoying a dailly NA 3.0 e46 330ci. Makes me feel a lot better
So if my car is a non direct injected engine is this a likely issue? Mine is a 2014 Honda Accord J35Y2 V6 engine.
Why can the Japanese still create efficient small engines that are reliable and the Germans can't? It comes down to penny pinching.
Usually the good Japanese engines are not small.
Mazda doesn't make smaller then a 1,5 liter I4. And that is in the Mazda2 where the competition is running 0,9 -1.3l engines.
Mazda uses extreme high compression ratio with atkinson ish cycle to make them more efficient.
Toyota usually does hybrids with a 1.8 liter Atkinson cycle petrol engine. These have very low torque and very long service life. The low torque problem is solved with an electric motor in the gearbox.
The only Japanese brand that went with the downscale solution is Suzuki. And true they are the one of the few brands that got downsizing right.
Because they use a special hybrid drivestrain that relieves tension on the combustion engine. The German's never had such drivetrain.
To be fair, BMW creates engines with plastic internals that destroys itself after 70k miles.
If you could recommend automotive brands that produce appropriately sized / quality oil pumps in their base powertrains, it would be greatly appreciated!
From a Former Car Mechanic I can safe to say that they do be getting weaker by the time.
And I am unsure if its due to the cost cutting of the Engine by the Brand.
Or by the government that places regulations on such engines,slowly killing them and making them seem unreliable.
I am unsure what my oil pressure is in my i30N but she hasn't broken down on me since I bought her and no engine issues.
I suppose that I dive my cars properly as well as doing maintenance on regular basis.
Do you recommend using higher weight oil to compensate for? Go from 0w-30 to 5w-40?
It "depends on the car", but - generally - YES. There's some new Toyota's out in Australia with a lot of engine failures - because they're running 0w-20 factory default (for European "emissions standards"). As soon as people change to 5w-40 the lifespan is fine.
@@OhSoddit 0-8 oil is recommended in some US Toyotas. Looks like apple juice.😮
@@OhSoddit If people followed the SAE recommendation they would be using 20w50 or higher for Australian conditions. 0w20 is only recommended for temperatures below -30C.
The vw 1.6 liter diesel in my a3 7 years ago was at least 0,5 liters more frugal per 100km in my commute than the 2.0 golf 8 115 tps tdi I had after. Deiving every day. mostly country roads, bit of town, bit of motorway. Prefered the Audi.
The German companies did it to themselves. Mazda puts large engines in their cars and still fulfills the same requirements. Or Toyota does well with their tried and tested hybrids.
Mazda specifically made the almost useless MX30 just so they can stay within carbon requirements and still be able to sell larger engines on their other models. I say useless because reviewers have noted its abysmal electric range.
Wrong, then why Mazda is so expensive and the sales of Mazda are also very low in Europe. Please take your nonsense somewhere else. Yes Toyota does better. But actually do have lower emissions because of the special hybrid drivetrain. Especially for city driving.
1:30 the easiest way to make an engine efficient is to reduce number of pistons and displacement, ask any engineer.
Japanese manufacturers had small powerfull engines 50 years ago, some 60 years ago. Never had serious problems.
I have seen Toyota minivan 990cc and 150HP build in 90s clocking 250,000km. Not a single problem. First Civic had 600cc and lots of HP, no problems.
Germany has becomed new US where board of directors and CEO are sucking money out of corporations withouth taking any responsability for their bad decisions. Simple as that.
Why do you, as a German guy, use miles and dollars? It doesn’t make sense. Please use normal units!
Because American markets and viewers are the standard unfortunately.
The world is used to converting from imperial to metric in their heads, but Americans haven't even heard of the metric system yet.
@@lifeoftennis1285 damn right...