I have pre-capture mapped to the quick (Q) menu on the back of my R5 II - it seems faster (to me) than the My Menu. Thank you for the very helpful video!
Hi Duade, the r7 and r10 got firmware updates recently, the language around the update is slightly vague but they may have addressed the autofocus issue when shooting in bursts, have you by any chance tried this new update? Thanks 😊
Thanks for speed boost tip, didn't know that. I used method I saw on Fabian Fopp Photography channel and after using it I will never go back to triple back button again. I use triple buttons but I do use my shutter button with AF activated. Remember back button AF was invented way back in the day before Mirrorless when AF systems in camera was way more simple. So people were always having to focus on a spot in a scene and then recompose. Or you would have to compose your shot, then move the focus point in camera to where you needed it. That was impossible to do if your shutter button was auto focusing always. But now when I'm shooting fast action anything with the modern camera's AF systems and tracking we don't have those problems anymore. I now use shutter button to AF with whole area AF activated and then mostly use two different Zones I custom setup the size of. Then I setup my back button AF for "subject to detect" so if subject is to small or backlit say and camera can't see the eye's then it works great for just finding your subject. Then I set up button "Asterisk" for my "Spot" no tracking. Also if your using the shutter button for AF, any other button you assigned to a different AF mode on back of the camera the camera will use that mode and override what AF mode the shutter is using as long keep your finger on the back button. Technically you could setup four different AF modes, three on back and shutter. I setup my three Custom settings for my wildlife settings with C2 and Pre capture activated. Then I setup my camera so when I'm not in one of three Custom settings modes, with traditional back button setup with no AF on shutter for still subjects like landscape or anything with else not moving. If you never tried this method, give it a go sometime you might be surprised. Great video and thanks. Just as little tidbit, one of most famous bird photographers in the world Arthur Morris, still uses his shutter button for AF. Think about it, why hold down two buttons when you can do it with just one.
Yes. I have always used the back button to lock focus. A much faster way then focusing and shooting than with two buttons. Also very easy and fast way to focus and recompose.
Why disable AF from the shutter button? Pushing any back-button focus, will override any focus function on the shutter.button. So effectively loosing a button. I never understood why, it was the on R5 and both R6.
Exactly. I was suspicious and I had to test it. And yeah, pressing any back button overrides any focus type you have on shutter button. If you just press shutter button the it will use focus types set on shutter button.
Couldn’t agree more. Disabling focus from the shutter only serves to limit your options. It seems to be a hold over setup from the dslr days when you had to use spot focus to gain focus then recompose.
That last incredible picture... Many will say "it's only possible with that camera" I think it's only possible with that camera in Duade Paton's hands! 🙂 So happy for you to have these amazing opportunities!
Thanks for another great video Duade. There is an additional level of 'complexity' to the backbutton AF setup that you didn't mention. For both the AF-On and * buttons, when you are assigning, say, AF or AF w/ eye tracking to either of these buttons, the INFO button allows setting details for all AF functions (as you demonstrated when setting up your 3rd back button). All of these 'override' whatever defaults you have set up under the pink AF menu. E.g. this allows you to have different AF areas assigned to each button. (I currently use the 3rd back button for experimenting with eye-control ala Jan Wegener's suggestion) I have pre-capture on a separate Custom button, and have M-Fn button set to cycle among 3 custom modes (quicker than using the Mode button). Basically C1: Birds non flying C2: birds in flight C3: add pre-capture to C2. Love how the R5 ii gives us so many options for setup. Now I'm trying to figure out which button(s) I can use to try out the focus distance preset thing. :) Cheers.
I tried putting the speed boost on the DOF button, but with my hand size I can’t reach it with one finger on the shutter release, another on a back button focus…….any other speed boost suggestions
Very nice video!! You're a great teacher, always easy to follow and making things very clear! I followed tips from Syler for setting up my buttons. He was quick with ideas for Eye control; usage. So I use the back button for the speed boost as well, works very nice! Syler proposed in his video on leaving the AF-on on spot without tracking, but I turned my af-on to tracking,now, using your tips, - that seems more logical to me, I missed that... I set and stay for now for the star button on eye focus AND Eye control, without tracking. And I put according to Syler my AF point button on Eye control tracking. That works fine for me. The light dimmer for the upper screen I set to Eye control ON or OFF. But I leave it on mostly, I don't care so much seeing my eye movements...
Great information! I had double back button autofocus set, but the addition of the spot autofocus with no tracking will be helpful to me in wooded areas. All topics well explained as always. Many thanks!
Awesome. Thanks Duade. I just picked up my R5ii this arvo and it hasn't taken a frame yet as the battery charges. Really enjoyed that and thanks for all your work. 🙂
Good day Duade, another awesome video showing people how to set up their new camera. You are simply the best when it comes to teaching and demonstrating to us, how to be the best that we can be when out and about when birding. I don’t know what people will do if you didn’t put out these great video’s. Wishing you and family good health and fortune, so you can deliver to us these outstanding vids to teach us. Even thou I don’t own the Canon R5 ii, watching your video’s just shows how dedicated you are in being a professional to others. All the best Brian
Another great tutorial, Duade. Thank you so much! I was not aware of the speed boost feature. I have pre-capture set up using the Q button. You have to remove one item then there's room to add pre-capture.
On my Canon R5 it is one of the modes I use the most (FV) and it even allows exposure compensation if the ISO is set to Auto. I don't understand why this mode is not covered!?
i think pretty much every camera has it? Either way according to the manual the r5II definitely has the mode. Even though i dont use it, i 100% agree it's pretty useful especially for cameras with less dials and arguably the other most powerful mode next to manual (with Auto-ISO only, ofc.)
I have been trying this method as well. I photograph roller derby and will half press waiting for something exciting to happen. Then if it doesn’t, I release without taking any photos. My problem is I am so in the habit of always half pressing and waiting that I sometimes forget and will have a burst of something I don’t need all of those extra photos.
Hi Duade, nothing to do with the video although it is always interesting to watch your videos. But as another anniversary comes along could I suggest a new membership perk bird. A Powerful Owl sounds good. I saw my first one a couple of weeks ago. A magnificent bird. Or maybe at least a bird of prey. Cheers.
CANON EXECS, SOFTWARE TEAM... HEADS UP. How great would it be in firmware to add a long press to register the focus point, then short press to rack to then focus point.
Canon NEEDS to make it so we can toggle pre-capture with a single button. This is basic stuff! Great video Duade, I'll definitely be setting up "speed boost" and focus presetting!
I use my R6 with a 24-240, only I frequently find the focus is hiding on the edge. I have a back button set to spot, but once reset it starts to wander. I obviously need to study the menu to see if I can lock the spot, in effect use it as a DSLR focus point, to reduce frustration. I love the rail shot! Incidentally, if you have two rails close together, does it make them a track!
Am I using triple back button autofocus? No, tried it but too much latitude for confusion with a set of controls I'm not fully familiar with; I keep pushing the wrong button while I'm concentrating on the subject.
Like some other viewers, i have pre-capture on all the time. When i want it, i hold the shutter halfway; when i don't, i just quickly press the shutter. Doesn't that work for everyone? Is any wildlife shooter using the shutter instead of back buttons for AF?
For Pre-Continuous shooting you can make it just a single button press through the Q menu, via a virtual button on the touch screen. Go to Menu 1, Tab 7 (Assist Shooting), scroll down to "Customize Quick Controls", edit layout, then select the icon for the "Pre" button. Now you have a permanent button on your Q screen (live view) to toggle Pre-Continuous Shooting ON/OFF with just a single press!
After the 5diii I think I need to get a licence. So different! I have never done a firmware, so maybe you could run through that as well. Excellent instructions here.
I found with the R5II that if you are a back button AF shooter you can just leave pre-capture enabled all the time. Because pre-capture can only be activated by a 1/2 press of the shutter, you will only have it activated when you decide to half-press the shutter combined with your back button for AF. Anytime you don't want precapture you just shoot how you always would and only press the shutter when actually firing a shot...pre-capture hasn't had time to activate and pre-buffer so you don't get any pre-capture frames. Want precapture? Just half press the shutter while doing AF and you will get you pre-capture frames. The problem I had with the R5II is I like to shoot shutter button AF with the back buttons used in conjunction for alternative AF modes. This actually gives me 4 AF modes ready to go at any time. This presented a problem because pre-capture was always running. I ended up switching back to to being a BBAF shooter (as I always was in the DSLR days) with the R5II as it just made the pre-capture workflow so much easier. What I'd wish to see on future Canon cameras are much larger back buttons. They have kept these buttons just way too small. They remind me of the original A9 buttons. Sony has made an effort to improve their back buttons with every new generation of camera. The A9II was better than the A9, the A1 was better than the A9II and now the A7RV/A9III are better than the A1. Not just improvement in size but also feel and slight changes to the position of the REC/C3 button to make it easier to hit. I hope Canon can start to do similar with future bodies. The R1 is certainly looking better for button size even over the R3 so at least at the top end they are improving.
I don't own a R5II but someone said that you can add Precapture to the Quick control Menu. You have to uncheck one item, e.g. FLK then check Pre. You can press the Q button while looking through the viewfinder to access Precapture. Again, I don't own a R5II so I haven't been able to try this but maybe you can.
Since the menus are different, I’m not sure how this will translate from the R6II. I set the DOF button to toggle raw burst which has the precapture submenu. Again, not sure how that might translate with the R5II. But hey, for all the R6II people, there you go.
Ty Duade. Jan should me how to use the third, button for eye focusing. I’ve used it some. I appreciate you guys continuing to share your programming tips after the initial set up videos. Good stuff. Ty again. Good day!!
Nice video Duade, I love the speed boost tip and will definitely be working it into my work flow. As far as pre-capture goes I also assign it to the my menu page, but the Q menu on the r5ii is customizable so I also assigned there. As far as BBF goes I use highbred-BBF, and I think you would like it. It will give you triple focus while freeing up a button. I do not take focus off the shutter button and set the M-fn button to switch focus modes but I typically leave the camera in spot focus. Doing this allows me to use the main focus with out pressing any buttons. I then assign the Af- on button to whole area eye af. I set the * button to small zone af and the far right button I set to put the camera immediately into bif settings. Right now I have the dof preview button set to use eye control focusing but I haven’t used it and I think I’m going to change that to your speed boost setting. Pressing any of the back buttons over rides the focus being on the shutter.
Another great video. Thank you very much! When setting the back button focus on the AF on button, what settings have you got in the INFO detail set section? There are a lot of options there.
For focus preset, the best would be able to Press-hold a button to set the distance, and just press to recall that distance. That way only one button would be necessary. The R5 do not have many buttons so that would be helpful.
I have pre-shooting enabled in one of the custom modes. I only have M, C1, C2 and C3 enabled in modes. If I am in M and want to go to pre-shoot, i press the mode button and roll with the iso wheel to C1. No need to take my hand off the lens or to remove my eye from the vf. C1 also manual mode.
Félicitations pour vos vidéos, j'avais déjà un R5 depuis 4 ans et depuis le 20 août j'ai ajouté un R5 mark2 dans mon kit photo. Comme je fais beaucoup de photo de sports (hockey) moi j'ai programmé mon bouton de profondeur de champs(DOF) sur le format 1,6 du capteur. Très pratique lorsqu'on est un peu court avec mon RF70-200m en essayant de photographier un joueur de l'autre côté de la patinoire, un seul bouton et Bang, mon objectif deviens un RF112-320mm ! Évidemment, en cropant directement à la prise je passe de 45 à une vingtaine de mégapixel mais en sports le but ultime est pas tant la qualité maximale mais d'avoir LA photo d'action au bon moment crucial ! Je vous avoue que moi aussi depuis le 20 août je découvre de nouveau menu caché ainsi que quelques bogues mais le dernier firmware semble avoir corriger le problème, le plus gros bogue était l'écran qui devenait complètement vert.
I set the shutter button to metering only. I also set up triple back buttons. Then I enable the pre- continous shooting. To start the pre capture, I half press the shutter button to engage the pre capture. No fiddling, it will be there as needed in any mode except single shot.
You should also discuss the use of the Q button {it has become a lot more powerful since it is customizable} and the MFn button (Dial Func now allows Two parameters to be adjusted.
Dial Func is SO DAMN underrated, it really deserves it's own video. I've been using it primarily for one HUGE benefit on the R6ii: using it to select ISO allows you to choose between AUTO-L-100-...102400-H, while binding ISO directly to any dial removes that first auto selection. I've set it up to the SET button, so i can press the button and directly turn the dial around it to change the ISO. That frees me up the back dial to choose the K value, giving me essentially a 5th dial to work with (shutter, exposure, aperture, ISO, K). I technically do have the WB mode set to Dial-func + top wheel, but i've only set that up in case manual WB annoys me and i want to change it. Yes, you could use the third dial to cycle though pairs of dial-functions, but theres imo two reasons against that. First it is less reliable which pair you have whenever you press the button, and second, do you really need more than 6 dials? for me even the 6th is already never used so i dont see too much benefits of using different pairs. Although to be fair, you could set ISO to the back dial for all the pairs, and then you only change the top dial's function for each pair, e.g. to choose the framerate.
My thoughts on the settings: Speedboost: i'm using something similar on the R6ii, in case it might be interesting to anyone: use mech. shutter by default, bind the "silent mode" to the button of your choice, set the framerate to H+ and you'll be able to switch between 12FPS MS and (silenced) 40FPS ES. Considering 40FPS is really quite a lot, i really like to be able to switch just as fast. Focus Preset: I wonder werther you can save focus to lets say 1m of distance, then rebind that key to anything else and "just" recall that one value all the time. The benefit would be that typically it's good enough if the distance is somewhere close, and this way you dont need 2 buttons for it. And lets face it, often you'll need the feature without having calibrated the saved focus to the given subject so you have to live with the prestored value anyways. Triple Back Button Focus: I've got something similar set up on the R6ii, by default i'm using Spot AF (can by cycled through with M-Fn. "Directr AF area selection"), when i press AF-On, it activates subject tracking (on the whole screen as long as the button is pressed. "AF on detect subject"), and if i press * ("Start/stop whole area AF tracking"), then it activates the spot following focus. I'm not sure if i missed anything but like that i'm able to use the 3 different AF modes with 2 buttons and dont need a 3rd button to reset anything to the default mode. The shutter button is set to "Metering and AF start". I dont really see a benefit in using "spot AF with tracking" as a default setting since either i use an appropriate focus area to limit where a subject cna be tracked, or i just use the "start/stop whole area AF tracking" function if i want to follow a specific subject. As an addition, i prefer the cycle-trhough function for the different AF areas since pressing the same button a few times is faster than opening the selection menu and choosing the appropriate area. The areas can still be moved with the joystick and if i'd want to set up a different size or anything, i really like to outsource all those not-on-the-fly settings to the Q-menu to save up bubtton use, as that is typically comfortable enough and it doesnt really matter if it's faster or not. As for precapture, it's weird the R5ii doesnt have a direct button functionality (firmware update maybe?), but on the r6ii, it's possible to assign RAW burst mode to a button, which opens up a menu to toggle (1) the mode and (2) pre-shooting. I've never seen any point to use RAW burst without pre-shooting, so the latter is always active and that way it takes 4 different button-presses to activate it. It's far from perfect, but at least it's there if i ever need it. Ironically, i haven't used it ever, yet, but i havent had many wildlife photoshoots so that's the reason i guess. Having said that, i just switched the button's functionality to opening the menu, as that only adds up to a few more button presses (at this point it doesn't matter anyways), and the original menu button has always been in a very weird spot imho. Personally, i've set all the important settings to MyMenu, as that just makes it easier to find the options and clears up the menu (especially since there are two types of settings, (1) the ones that get set once and then maybe changed in a year or so, and (2) the ones you actively want to use, such as bracketing, movie settings or even airplane mode).
Canon charging thousands of dollars premium for giving us $5 buttons and software patches to allow us to assign function to a button... which competitors have for years. And still no 2nd front button like DOF, which 2000$ cameras now have. Not to mention... BEEP on R5/6 in electronic shutter. A BEEP from the 70s computers! Canon can kiss my arse, they wil never see a penny from me again for new hardware. Batteries including, nerfing my camera i paid for depending on what battery i put in it - very likely ILLEGAL, but who can take Canon to court after they just delivered new hardware to the CIA?
The video of the bird, where the camera loses focus several times and three AF buttons settings make me think that AF systems are still far from perfect. We should be using the most convenient AF mode and we actually use the one that fails less. I grew up with film and manual focus, so I'm aware of what AF made possible, but there!s room for improvement.
The precapture gives you half a second at whatever frames per second you have high plus set to. I have high plus set to 15fps & get 8 fps. I don’t set a button to spot focus l just set the focus zones to a dial then quickly scroll to the end & l am in locked spot focus that way l can still set register recall to birds in flight shutter speed. I shoot in low set to 5fps then put my speed boost to star button & register recall on button right next to it on right then if a bird takes flight l can press them both together with just my thumb. This way l don’t end up with multiple shots of a bird on a perch but still get a high frame rate & high shutter speed when it takes off.
This is incorrect. The pre-capture gives you 15 FRAMES at your selected FPS. Easy for anyone to test and confirm this. Set camera to 5FPS. Aim at a running stopwatch on your phone. Hold down pre-capture for at least 3s. Push the shutter and let off right away. You will likely end up with 16 frames as you will get one extra when you push the shutter (if you try the test at a faster FPS you may get an extra frame or two). Review the images and you will see they cover 3 seconds of time (3s x 5FPS = 15 frames). You only get 0.5s if you have FPS set to 30FPS. Do the test at 10FPS you will see the time cover 1.5s, at 15FPS it will cover 1s, at 20FPS it will cover 0.75s etc.
@@geoffn8963 ok tar Geoff l will play with the tests a bit later all l know is l have drive set to 5ps with high plus at 15fps if l use back button focus & give shutter quick press l get one image if l half press engaging precapture & give quick press l get 8 images so l assuming these are 7 precapture plus one as there is only the sound of one image being taken not 8 so can only assume l getting a half second at half of 15 images a second.
I leave Pre-Capture on and disable it by changing the drive speed to single shot, since Pre-Capture only works with continuous drive mode.
That's interesting
I have pre-capture mapped to the quick (Q) menu on the back of my R5 II - it seems faster (to me) than the My Menu. Thank you for the very helpful video!
Hi Duade, the r7 and r10 got firmware updates recently, the language around the update is slightly vague but they may have addressed the autofocus issue when shooting in bursts, have you by any chance tried this new update? Thanks 😊
What issue was that?
Thanks for speed boost tip, didn't know that. I used method I saw on Fabian Fopp Photography channel and after using it I will never go back to triple back button again. I use triple buttons but I do use my shutter button with AF activated. Remember back button AF was invented way back in the day before Mirrorless when AF systems in camera was way more simple. So people were always having to focus on a spot in a scene and then recompose. Or you would have to compose your shot, then move the focus point in camera to where you needed it. That was impossible to do if your shutter button was auto focusing always. But now when I'm shooting fast action anything with the modern camera's AF systems and tracking we don't have those problems anymore. I now use shutter button to AF with whole area AF activated and then mostly use two different Zones I custom setup the size of. Then I setup my back button AF for "subject to detect" so if subject is to small or backlit say and camera can't see the eye's then it works great for just finding your subject. Then I set up button "Asterisk" for my "Spot" no tracking. Also if your using the shutter button for AF, any other button you assigned to a different AF mode on back of the camera the camera will use that mode and override what AF mode the shutter is using as long keep your finger on the back button. Technically you could setup four different AF modes, three on back and shutter. I setup my three Custom settings for my wildlife settings with C2 and Pre capture activated. Then I setup my camera so when I'm not in one of three Custom settings modes, with traditional back button setup with no AF on shutter for still subjects like landscape or anything with else not moving. If you never tried this method, give it a go sometime you might be surprised. Great video and thanks. Just as little tidbit, one of most famous bird photographers in the world Arthur Morris, still uses his shutter button for AF. Think about it, why hold down two buttons when you can do it with just one.
Yes. I have always used the back button to lock focus. A much faster way then focusing and shooting than with two buttons. Also very easy and fast way to focus and recompose.
I've been using triple back button for a while. I had it set up on my R5 also. Eye, Spot, Zone. The flexible zone is nice on the Mark ll. Thank Duade.
Great to hear, yes, very handy indeed, Cheers, Duade
Ty Duade. I use DOF button for crop mode. Good idea through.
A well explained video, how do you get to show frame rate in viewfinder?
Why disable AF from the shutter button? Pushing any back-button focus, will override any focus function on the shutter.button. So effectively loosing a button. I never understood why, it was the on R5 and both R6.
Exactly. I was suspicious and I had to test it. And yeah, pressing any back button overrides any focus type you have on shutter button. If you just press shutter button the it will use focus types set on shutter button.
Couldn’t agree more. Disabling focus from the shutter only serves to limit your options. It seems to be a hold over setup from the dslr days when you had to use spot focus to gain focus then recompose.
That last incredible picture... Many will say "it's only possible with that camera"
I think it's only possible with that camera in Duade Paton's hands! 🙂
So happy for you to have these amazing opportunities!
Thanks for another great video Duade. There is an additional level of 'complexity' to the backbutton AF setup that you didn't mention. For both the AF-On and * buttons, when you are assigning, say, AF or AF w/ eye tracking to either of these buttons, the INFO button allows setting details for all AF functions (as you demonstrated when setting up your 3rd back button). All of these 'override' whatever defaults you have set up under the pink AF menu. E.g. this allows you to have different AF areas assigned to each button. (I currently use the 3rd back button for experimenting with eye-control ala Jan Wegener's suggestion)
I have pre-capture on a separate Custom button, and have M-Fn button set to cycle among 3 custom modes (quicker than using the Mode button). Basically C1: Birds non flying C2: birds in flight C3: add pre-capture to C2. Love how the R5 ii gives us so many options for setup.
Now I'm trying to figure out which button(s) I can use to try out the focus distance preset thing. :) Cheers.
I tried putting the speed boost on the DOF button, but with my hand size I can’t reach it with one finger on the shutter release, another on a back button focus…….any other speed boost suggestions
Very nice video!! You're a great teacher, always easy to follow and making things very clear!
I followed tips from Syler for setting up my buttons. He was quick with ideas for Eye control; usage.
So I use the back button for the speed boost as well, works very nice!
Syler proposed in his video on leaving the AF-on on spot without tracking, but I turned my af-on to tracking,now, using your tips, - that seems more logical to me, I missed that...
I set and stay for now for the star button on eye focus AND Eye control, without tracking.
And I put according to Syler my AF point button on Eye control tracking. That works fine for me. The light dimmer for the upper screen I set to Eye control ON or OFF. But I leave it on mostly, I don't care so much seeing my eye movements...
Thank you. At first this camera was overwhelming to set up,but now I have come to appreciate all the options.
Great information! I had double back button autofocus set, but the addition of the spot autofocus with no tracking will be helpful to me in wooded areas. All topics well explained as always. Many thanks!
Awesome. Thanks Duade. I just picked up my R5ii this arvo and it hasn't taken a frame yet as the battery charges. Really enjoyed that and thanks for all your work. 🙂
Good day Duade, another awesome video showing people how to set up their new camera. You are simply the best when it comes to teaching and demonstrating to us, how to be the best that we can be when out and about when birding. I don’t know what people will do if you didn’t put out these great video’s. Wishing you and family good health and fortune, so you can deliver to us these outstanding vids to teach us. Even thou I don’t own the Canon R5 ii, watching your video’s just shows how dedicated you are in being a professional to others.
All the best Brian
Another great tutorial, Duade. Thank you so much! I was not aware of the speed boost feature. I have pre-capture set up using the Q button. You have to remove one item then there's room to add pre-capture.
I can't save up fast enough, lol. I've got to get my hands on one of these. My R has served it's purpose. I'm ready 😁
I have been using three back button focus on my old R5 for several months now
Really helpful. Good job, Duade! And thank you.
By the time you manage memorise all these things, the R5IV will already be out..
Can the FV mode be used on the R5 Mkii as on the Canon R7? Because it is very useful. Thank you!
On my Canon R5 it is one of the modes I use the most (FV) and it even allows exposure compensation if the ISO is set to Auto. I don't understand why this mode is not covered!?
@@jrnmiranda1 Maybe Duade will answer us. It is a very useful mod
i think pretty much every camera has it? Either way according to the manual the r5II definitely has the mode. Even though i dont use it, i 100% agree it's pretty useful especially for cameras with less dials and arguably the other most powerful mode next to manual (with Auto-ISO only, ofc.)
Excellent advice Duade!
I just leave pre capture on. Since I have triple back button focus on I don't half press the shutter unless I want to pre cap.
I have been trying this method as well. I photograph roller derby and will half press waiting for something exciting to happen. Then if it doesn’t, I release without taking any photos. My problem is I am so in the habit of always half pressing and waiting that I sometimes forget and will have a burst of something I don’t need all of those extra photos.
Hi Duade, nothing to do with the video although it is always interesting to watch your videos. But as another anniversary comes along could I suggest a new membership perk bird. A Powerful Owl sounds good. I saw my first one a couple of weeks ago. A magnificent bird. Or maybe at least a bird of prey. Cheers.
Thanks mate, good point, I need a new bird for sure, Cheers, Duade
Backlit bee on Grass Tree... Stunning. Great pre-capture example too. Wow... that snake. 'Love your work', Duade.
Great tips mate!
Fantastic image Duade.
Thanks mate, Cheers, Duade
I will definitely find the speed boost and pre-capture on/off features useful. Thanks!
CANON EXECS, SOFTWARE TEAM... HEADS UP. How great would it be in firmware to add a long press to register the focus point, then short press to rack to then focus point.
Canon NEEDS to make it so we can toggle pre-capture with a single button. This is basic stuff! Great video Duade, I'll definitely be setting up "speed boost" and focus presetting!
I use my R6 with a 24-240, only I frequently find the focus is hiding on the edge. I have a back button set to spot, but once reset it starts to wander. I obviously need to study the menu to see if I can lock the spot, in effect use it as a DSLR focus point, to reduce frustration. I love the rail shot! Incidentally, if you have two rails close together, does it make them a track!
Am I using triple back button autofocus? No, tried it but too much latitude for confusion with a set of controls I'm not fully familiar with; I keep pushing the wrong button while I'm concentrating on the subject.
I also have Pre capture on my Quick Menu display…I edited this display and only have 3 screen buttons on it….pre capture being on top
Like some other viewers, i have pre-capture on all the time. When i want it, i hold the shutter halfway; when i don't, i just quickly press the shutter. Doesn't that work for everyone? Is any wildlife shooter using the shutter instead of back buttons for AF?
For Pre-Continuous shooting you can make it just a single button press through the Q menu, via a virtual button on the touch screen. Go to Menu 1, Tab 7 (Assist Shooting), scroll down to "Customize Quick Controls", edit layout, then select the icon for the "Pre" button. Now you have a permanent button on your Q screen (live view) to toggle Pre-Continuous Shooting ON/OFF with just a single press!
Could the Register/Recall feature be programed to activate pre capture?
Canon menus are simply horrible... Half of the time it's guessing what it is.
After the 5diii I think I need to get a licence. So different! I have never done a firmware, so maybe you could run through that as well. Excellent instructions here.
I found with the R5II that if you are a back button AF shooter you can just leave pre-capture enabled all the time. Because pre-capture can only be activated by a 1/2 press of the shutter, you will only have it activated when you decide to half-press the shutter combined with your back button for AF. Anytime you don't want precapture you just shoot how you always would and only press the shutter when actually firing a shot...pre-capture hasn't had time to activate and pre-buffer so you don't get any pre-capture frames. Want precapture? Just half press the shutter while doing AF and you will get you pre-capture frames.
The problem I had with the R5II is I like to shoot shutter button AF with the back buttons used in conjunction for alternative AF modes. This actually gives me 4 AF modes ready to go at any time. This presented a problem because pre-capture was always running. I ended up switching back to to being a BBAF shooter (as I always was in the DSLR days) with the R5II as it just made the pre-capture workflow so much easier.
What I'd wish to see on future Canon cameras are much larger back buttons. They have kept these buttons just way too small. They remind me of the original A9 buttons. Sony has made an effort to improve their back buttons with every new generation of camera. The A9II was better than the A9, the A1 was better than the A9II and now the A7RV/A9III are better than the A1. Not just improvement in size but also feel and slight changes to the position of the REC/C3 button to make it easier to hit. I hope Canon can start to do similar with future bodies. The R1 is certainly looking better for button size even over the R3 so at least at the top end they are improving.
I don't own a R5II but someone said that you can add Precapture to the Quick control Menu. You have to uncheck one item, e.g. FLK then check Pre. You can press the Q button while looking through the viewfinder to access Precapture. Again, I don't own a R5II so I haven't been able to try this but maybe you can.
One of the best videos on the Canon R5 II I’ve seen to date…I will consider becoming a member, thank you.
Since the menus are different, I’m not sure how this will translate from the R6II. I set the DOF button to toggle raw burst which has the precapture submenu. Again, not sure how that might translate with the R5II. But hey, for all the R6II people, there you go.
That's strange that you can't assign a button for precapture on the R5 mk2 I have one assigned on my R7
Ty Duade. Jan should me how to use the third, button for eye focusing. I’ve used it some.
I appreciate you guys continuing to share your programming tips after the initial set up videos. Good stuff. Ty again. Good day!!
Nice video Duade, I love the speed boost tip and will definitely be working it into my work flow. As far as pre-capture goes I also assign it to the my menu page, but the Q menu on the r5ii is customizable so I also assigned there.
As far as BBF goes I use highbred-BBF, and I think you would like it. It will give you triple focus while freeing up a button.
I do not take focus off the shutter button and set the M-fn button to switch focus modes but I typically leave the camera in spot focus. Doing this allows me to use the main focus with out pressing any buttons. I then assign the Af- on button to whole area eye af. I set the * button to small zone af and the far right button I set to put the camera immediately into bif settings. Right now I have the dof preview button set to use eye control focusing but I haven’t used it and I think I’m going to change that to your speed boost setting. Pressing any of the back buttons over rides the focus being on the shutter.
Speed boost button is awesome! Some cool tips but now you need more buttons lol
Canon R7ii with a stacked sensor, bg accessory and latest spec bumps
Another great video. Thank you very much! When setting the back button focus on the AF on button, what settings have you got in the INFO detail set section? There are a lot of options there.
For focus preset, the best would be able to Press-hold a button to set the distance, and just press to recall that distance. That way only one button would be necessary. The R5 do not have many buttons so that would be helpful.
I have pre-shooting enabled in one of the custom modes. I only have M, C1, C2 and C3 enabled in modes. If I am in M and want to go to pre-shoot, i press the mode button and roll with the iso wheel to C1. No need to take my hand off the lens or to remove my eye from the vf. C1 also manual mode.
Félicitations pour vos vidéos, j'avais déjà un R5 depuis 4 ans et depuis le 20 août j'ai ajouté un R5 mark2 dans mon kit photo. Comme je fais beaucoup de photo de sports (hockey) moi j'ai programmé mon bouton de profondeur de champs(DOF) sur le format 1,6 du capteur. Très pratique lorsqu'on est un peu court avec mon RF70-200m en essayant de photographier un joueur de l'autre côté de la patinoire, un seul bouton et Bang, mon objectif deviens un RF112-320mm ! Évidemment, en cropant directement à la prise je passe de 45 à une vingtaine de mégapixel mais en sports le but ultime est pas tant la qualité maximale mais d'avoir LA photo d'action au bon moment crucial ! Je vous avoue que moi aussi depuis le 20 août je découvre de nouveau menu caché ainsi que quelques bogues mais le dernier firmware semble avoir corriger le problème, le plus gros bogue était l'écran qui devenait complètement vert.
I realized that Canon offered users a real quest)))
I set the shutter button to metering only. I also set up triple back buttons. Then I enable the pre- continous shooting. To start the pre capture, I half press the shutter button to engage the pre capture. No fiddling, it will be there as needed in any mode except single shot.
Thank you for the details of the different back button focus options. Now things are clear, or at least clearer!
I’ll try your my menu suggestions for precapture. Ty!
I like cameras which allow me to concentrate on the creative process rather than dive deep into settings
wow!
Looks amazing for f9...
I have pre-shoot on the third button, and AF select on the lens ring.
Very useful tips. Thx a lot !
Fantastic video!
Great episode, Duade!
You can add pre- capture to the Q menu and thus is quicker than my menu. You can now customise the Q menu with other shortcuts
Thanks for sharing, I was not aware of this. Great to know. Cheers, Duade 👍
You should also discuss the use of the Q button {it has become a lot more powerful since it is customizable} and the MFn button (Dial Func now allows Two parameters to be adjusted.
Dial Func is SO DAMN underrated, it really deserves it's own video.
I've been using it primarily for one HUGE benefit on the R6ii: using it to select ISO allows you to choose between AUTO-L-100-...102400-H, while binding ISO directly to any dial removes that first auto selection. I've set it up to the SET button, so i can press the button and directly turn the dial around it to change the ISO. That frees me up the back dial to choose the K value, giving me essentially a 5th dial to work with (shutter, exposure, aperture, ISO, K). I technically do have the WB mode set to Dial-func + top wheel, but i've only set that up in case manual WB annoys me and i want to change it. Yes, you could use the third dial to cycle though pairs of dial-functions, but theres imo two reasons against that. First it is less reliable which pair you have whenever you press the button, and second, do you really need more than 6 dials? for me even the 6th is already never used so i dont see too much benefits of using different pairs. Although to be fair, you could set ISO to the back dial for all the pairs, and then you only change the top dial's function for each pair, e.g. to choose the framerate.
Do you have to hold the DOF button in for 30 fps??. Or do you hit it once an let go and its then 30 fps?
have to hold it...
@@ericmcleod7825 - Cheers thanks for that I figured as much !!!!
My thoughts on the settings:
Speedboost: i'm using something similar on the R6ii, in case it might be interesting to anyone: use mech. shutter by default, bind the "silent mode" to the button of your choice, set the framerate to H+ and you'll be able to switch between 12FPS MS and (silenced) 40FPS ES. Considering 40FPS is really quite a lot, i really like to be able to switch just as fast.
Focus Preset: I wonder werther you can save focus to lets say 1m of distance, then rebind that key to anything else and "just" recall that one value all the time. The benefit would be that typically it's good enough if the distance is somewhere close, and this way you dont need 2 buttons for it. And lets face it, often you'll need the feature without having calibrated the saved focus to the given subject so you have to live with the prestored value anyways.
Triple Back Button Focus: I've got something similar set up on the R6ii, by default i'm using Spot AF (can by cycled through with M-Fn. "Directr AF area selection"), when i press AF-On, it activates subject tracking (on the whole screen as long as the button is pressed. "AF on detect subject"), and if i press * ("Start/stop whole area AF tracking"), then it activates the spot following focus. I'm not sure if i missed anything but like that i'm able to use the 3 different AF modes with 2 buttons and dont need a 3rd button to reset anything to the default mode. The shutter button is set to "Metering and AF start". I dont really see a benefit in using "spot AF with tracking" as a default setting since either i use an appropriate focus area to limit where a subject cna be tracked, or i just use the "start/stop whole area AF tracking" function if i want to follow a specific subject.
As an addition, i prefer the cycle-trhough function for the different AF areas since pressing the same button a few times is faster than opening the selection menu and choosing the appropriate area. The areas can still be moved with the joystick and if i'd want to set up a different size or anything, i really like to outsource all those not-on-the-fly settings to the Q-menu to save up bubtton use, as that is typically comfortable enough and it doesnt really matter if it's faster or not.
As for precapture, it's weird the R5ii doesnt have a direct button functionality (firmware update maybe?), but on the r6ii, it's possible to assign RAW burst mode to a button, which opens up a menu to toggle (1) the mode and (2) pre-shooting. I've never seen any point to use RAW burst without pre-shooting, so the latter is always active and that way it takes 4 different button-presses to activate it. It's far from perfect, but at least it's there if i ever need it. Ironically, i haven't used it ever, yet, but i havent had many wildlife photoshoots so that's the reason i guess. Having said that, i just switched the button's functionality to opening the menu, as that only adds up to a few more button presses (at this point it doesn't matter anyways), and the original menu button has always been in a very weird spot imho.
Personally, i've set all the important settings to MyMenu, as that just makes it easier to find the options and clears up the menu (especially since there are two types of settings, (1) the ones that get set once and then maybe changed in a year or so, and (2) the ones you actively want to use, such as bracketing, movie settings or even airplane mode).
Canon charging thousands of dollars premium for giving us $5 buttons and software patches to allow us to assign function to a button... which competitors have for years. And still no 2nd front button like DOF, which 2000$ cameras now have. Not to mention... BEEP on R5/6 in electronic shutter. A BEEP from the 70s computers! Canon can kiss my arse, they wil never see a penny from me again for new hardware. Batteries including, nerfing my camera i paid for depending on what battery i put in it - very likely ILLEGAL, but who can take Canon to court after they just delivered new hardware to the CIA?
The video of the bird, where the camera loses focus several times and three AF buttons settings make me think that AF systems are still far from perfect. We should be using the most convenient AF mode and we actually use the one that fails less.
I grew up with film and manual focus, so I'm aware of what AF made possible, but there!s room for improvement.
The precapture gives you half a second at whatever frames per second you have high plus set to. I have high plus set to 15fps & get 8 fps. I don’t set a button to spot focus l just set the focus zones to a dial then quickly scroll to the end & l am in locked spot focus that way l can still set register recall to birds in flight shutter speed. I shoot in low set to 5fps then put my speed boost to star button & register recall on button right next to it on right then if a bird takes flight l can press them both together with just my thumb. This way l don’t end up with multiple shots of a bird on a perch but still get a high frame rate & high shutter speed when it takes off.
This is incorrect. The pre-capture gives you 15 FRAMES at your selected FPS. Easy for anyone to test and confirm this. Set camera to 5FPS. Aim at a running stopwatch on your phone. Hold down pre-capture for at least 3s. Push the shutter and let off right away. You will likely end up with 16 frames as you will get one extra when you push the shutter (if you try the test at a faster FPS you may get an extra frame or two). Review the images and you will see they cover 3 seconds of time (3s x 5FPS = 15 frames). You only get 0.5s if you have FPS set to 30FPS. Do the test at 10FPS you will see the time cover 1.5s, at 15FPS it will cover 1s, at 20FPS it will cover 0.75s etc.
@@geoffn8963 ok tar Geoff l will play with the tests a bit later all l know is l have drive set to 5ps with high plus at 15fps if l use back button focus & give shutter quick press l get one image if l half press engaging precapture & give quick press l get 8 images so l assuming these are 7 precapture plus one as there is only the sound of one image being taken not 8 so can only assume l getting a half second at half of 15 images a second.