My EBay Store Link: www.ebay.com/str/broncosandpartsgarage?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8jZhh5MQRiW&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=8jZhh5MQRiW&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Okay, thank you for the video. Just did this with out drilling out the rivet. It is possible, follow the video, you don’t need to remove the wires from the door. To remove the actuator, slide in a flat head screwdriver to help in plug the restraining tab. Then pull the actuator straight back to pop it off the bracket, then unhook the metal wire thing from the top. To install it, it’s a huge hassle. First, finagle the actuator into position, and hook the top metal piece on the truck, next, pivot the actuator down and using your fingers reattach the power module. It’ll take some time. Now to pop in the actuator, I did the onboard side first, you get more leverage that way. Once you find the hole for the in board side and it pops in, you can twist it to pop in the other side. Huge PITA but saved me money, and time :)
Yeah I would have if I had a rivet gun already. IT would have made it 1000X easier, and my arms wouldn't be cut up haha! Thank you for the video and motivation @@BroncosandPartsGarage
For the rivet can I have an assistant put pressure on the actuator side and I do the manual rivet tool from the outside? I don't have a compressor at home and a larger rivet tool is cheaper than a compressor and a pneumatic tool.
No compressor or rivet gun here either. What is the pressure that a compressor would need to do the job? I am in an apartment, so size of compressor needs to be kept small
My local repair shop misdiagnosed my F150 lock problem, and already charged me a pretty hefty price to just replace the Lock/Unlock switch which did not fix the problem. I'm not a mechanic. So watching these videos it is rather shocking to me just how darn difficult Ford makes it to access and change the inaccessible actuator. Apparently my local "pro's" can't fix this, so I have to face it myself, and I lack some of those tools. Because of the labor dismantling the door, I can just imagine this running up into hundreds of dollars (more) if I have to pay someone. I would love to have old fashioned non-electric door locks.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage Well, I've watched 3 or 4 videos here on how to replace these Ford lock actuators, and each has the same rather long list of many steps that must be done to get even near the actuator which remains fairly hidden and almost inaccessible. Then things get really messy when we have to rip off the big moisture gasket, wondering if that can ever be replaced. And then there's the special tools used which most people do not have. Etc etc. You may call it simple. I call it very complicated and "iffy" that a DIY'er can do it. I found out one thing: when I presented this problem to two big local mechanic shops, neither knew how to diagnose or how to fix it! And one of these was a huge Ford dealership and service shop!
Hey Chris. I had to replace the cable from the latch to the door handle on my 95 F150. When I re assembled everything the door wouldn't open. The rear of the window track kept interfering with the linkages. I had to leave it a little loose and now it rattles sometime. Any thoughts?
@@BroncosandPartsGarage Yep, just like it came out. There's a valley in the stamping that the cable goes through so it can really only go one way. My linkages would hang up unless the window track is left loose.
I'm sitting here wondering why the actuator couldn't be pried out of the bracket, so it wouldn't have to be drilled out....I've seen this mentioned before I think...thoughts appreciated.
I changed my actuators because they didn't work when I first bought it. They only lasted 3 months. Did I buy crappy actuators or could there be another problem? One door is a little messed up and fills with water while the other doesn't but they both stopped working.
Most of these actuators are about $20-$25. The connectors sit very low in the door. I would definitely unplug your doors so they do not hold water. Because that water is sloshing around and probably keep the inside of the door body very wet and damp. Check ur fuses and pinched wires.
Great video! I'll have this at the ready when mine fail :) Any chance you have one for the door key lock? Somebody messed with mine and it now requires replacement. How could they mess with such a cool rig? I have no idea. What state are you guys in in case I break down? hahaha.
My EBay Store Link:
www.ebay.com/str/broncosandpartsgarage?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8jZhh5MQRiW&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=8jZhh5MQRiW&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Nice quick how-to video. Nice collaboration as well!
Your next bro!!
You made that look easy, thanks
Glad to help. @ridingshotgunadventures deserves praise too
Okay, thank you for the video. Just did this with out drilling out the rivet. It is possible, follow the video, you don’t need to remove the wires from the door. To remove the actuator, slide in a flat head screwdriver to help in plug the restraining tab. Then pull the actuator straight back to pop it off the bracket, then unhook the metal wire thing from the top. To install it, it’s a huge hassle. First, finagle the actuator into position, and hook the top metal piece on the truck, next, pivot the actuator down and using your fingers reattach the power module. It’ll take some time. Now to pop in the actuator, I did the onboard side first, you get more leverage that way. Once you find the hole for the in board side and it pops in, you can twist it to pop in the other side. Huge PITA but saved me money, and time :)
Or…… drill out that .50 rivet and be done in a matter of seconds…… 😉
Yeah I would have if I had a rivet gun already. IT would have made it 1000X easier, and my arms wouldn't be cut up haha! Thank you for the video and motivation @@BroncosandPartsGarage
About to swap over from the old manual locks after watching this
Do it!!
For the rivet can I have an assistant put pressure on the actuator side and I do the manual rivet tool from the outside? I don't have a compressor at home and a larger rivet tool is cheaper than a compressor and a pneumatic tool.
Yes
No compressor or rivet gun here either. What is the pressure that a compressor would need to do the job? I am in an apartment, so size of compressor needs to be kept small
@ just do it by hand with a helper. No compressor needed
Great video guys. I don't have a pneumatic rivet gun. Maybe I can borrow or rent one.
Can be done either way
Any way to use these rivers without a gun? I’m just one guy with my hands as tools. Thanks
Yes. Normal rivet gun will work. Long arm style
did he put the link in the description???
Always. Just click on the description
My local repair shop misdiagnosed my F150 lock problem, and already charged me a pretty hefty price to just replace the Lock/Unlock switch which did not fix the problem. I'm not a mechanic. So watching these videos it is rather shocking to me just how darn difficult Ford makes it to access and change the inaccessible actuator. Apparently my local "pro's" can't fix this, so I have to face it myself, and I lack some of those tools. Because of the labor dismantling the door, I can just imagine this running up into hundreds of dollars (more) if I have to pay someone. I would love to have old fashioned non-electric door locks.
It’s actually pretty simple.
@@BroncosandPartsGarage Well, I've watched 3 or 4 videos here on how to replace these Ford lock actuators, and each has the same rather long list of many steps that must be done to get even near the actuator which remains fairly hidden and almost inaccessible. Then things get really messy when we have to rip off the big moisture gasket, wondering if that can ever be replaced. And then there's the special tools used which most people do not have. Etc etc. You may call it simple. I call it very complicated and "iffy" that a DIY'er can do it. I found out one thing: when I presented this problem to two big local mechanic shops, neither knew how to diagnose or how to fix it! And one of these was a huge Ford dealership and service shop!
Try doing one on a Camry. Worse
Any chance you tell us what size rivet you used? Aluminum or steel? Awesome video.. you are saving us out here!!!
Link for rivets are in the description. 1/4”
Great video! I have a 4 door F350. Do you know if the rear doors takes the same part number?
Thanks. Great question. I’d assume so. But I’ll check
Yes always hand start the bolt 😉 you don't want to get too crazy with the reinstallation
I say “send it”, that’s what taps are for!!! 😁😁😁
@@BroncosandPartsGarage 🤣
Bronco graveyard charges insaine shipping. $75 bucks for some body moldings that weigh less then a pound.
They do have a drop down menu for shipping. Not too many people know that. Call them and ask for Pat and he might be able to rectify the situation.
When will there be a hand crank to power window conversion
We will look into that. Thanks for the idea
What's the name of the parts place again?
Jeffs Bronco Graveyard. Tell them Chris sent you
Hey Chris. I had to replace the cable from the latch to the door handle on my 95 F150. When I re assembled everything the door wouldn't open. The rear of the window track kept interfering with the linkages. I had to leave it a little loose and now it rattles sometime. Any thoughts?
Did you route the cable properly. There is a specific path
@@BroncosandPartsGarage Yep, just like it came out. There's a valley in the stamping that the cable goes through so it can really only go one way. My linkages would hang up unless the window track is left loose.
I'm sitting here wondering why the actuator couldn't be pried out of the bracket, so it wouldn't have to be drilled out....I've seen this mentioned before I think...thoughts appreciated.
I have large hands and arms. It was WAY easier this way. I wouldn’t recommend doing anything you’ve seen me do. Lol.
Any video on how to replace rear door lock actuator on 2020 f250?
sadly, no
I changed my actuators because they didn't work when I first bought it. They only lasted 3 months. Did I buy crappy actuators or could there be another problem? One door is a little messed up and fills with water while the other doesn't but they both stopped working.
Most of these actuators are about $20-$25. The connectors sit very low in the door. I would definitely unplug your doors so they do not hold water. Because that water is sloshing around and probably keep the inside of the door body very wet and damp. Check ur fuses and pinched wires.
Great video! I'll have this at the ready when mine fail :) Any chance you have one for the door key lock? Somebody messed with mine and it now requires replacement. How could they mess with such a cool rig? I have no idea. What state are you guys in in case I break down? hahaha.
Thank you. Trust me, you don’t wanna break down in Detroit. Lol. We have the lock assembly video in que
Seems like i am always replacing these every few years
Nothing as good as Oem!
On my Camry s the actuators and window motors die at about 200,000 miles. My Taurus has 240,000