You are truly the gold-standard of 3D Printer RUclips content. I always send your links to new people looking for their first printers. Also your collaboration with CNC Kitchen is good combination. He is fascinated by the physical properties and you more the quality and tolerances. Perhaps there is room for a series that combines the two? A project where you optimize it and he tests and revises and or anneals/processes it? For instance could the brackets you made before be radically improved by annealing? It would be cool to see real world improvements in strength of an object as well as shrinkage and downsides instead of just test coupons. It is refreshing seeing people that are passionate by the content they specialize in instead of trying to be everything to everybody. :)
What you said was really helpful, but I wish you made a quick video montage of how does the printing process looks like. From filling it up with resin, taking it off, washing and then curing. I still would like to see it.
One advice I've got from a comment in the video "Resin 3D Printing Safety - Important for Beginners!" (by "Maker's Muse") . You can reuse the alcohol, if you cure the dissolved resign using UV light. The problem is that you need a really good filter to remove the particles, as they could be really small. The benefit is that the cured particles are not toxic, so it is easier to dispose of them. To make it clear, the video itself recommends leaving the alcohol to evaporate, that leaves only the resign.
@@arcadebit1551 No. The coffee filter allows coffee powder to pass through it. I think one of the comments in the thread said that he has tried with coffee filter, but most of the particles are too small for it.
Another FANTASTIC video ! You were meant to teach ! You did such a great job, and you know your stuff ! As a beginner with wanting to learn about these machines, especially the resin printer, I am able to understand everything that you are saying, or showing us. That alone gives me confidence in moving forward with learning these skills I can’t express just how much this video was a wealth of basic information for which you build upon for the next video of this series !! Thank you, very much ! I am truly, very grateful of your time, effort, and the sharing of your knowledge !! Julie Canada
A video about Carbon M1 resin printers would be interesting! "Carbon's CLIP technology eliminates the peel process by using an oxygenated layer of resin between the resin tray window and the print itself. This layer creates a dead zone which allows the print to emerge continuously from the resin tray, skipping the peel process" They're supposedly around 100x faster, which in turn probably gives them a longer lifespan and lower operating costs.
Dude ... If you have a lot of money go for it - but it's waaaay out of reach for most of us - also it's a service, so it's a B&B printer, that's like asking Tom to review the stratasys line
As a sufferer of crohns disease I have a weak immune system already and take immu-suppressant drugs daily, I wish someone made a video like this a few years back when I got into resin printing and bought a Mars 2, i ended up having a severe reaction to the resin just from the fumes produced by the liquid, Wearing respirator helped but I had to give up the resin hobby, can still enjoy the FDM part of the hobby and got plenty of friends with resin machines who can print for me. Thanks for making these videos its something i will recommend peeps to watch when starting out
Thank you so much for this series, Tom! The Elegoo Mars is the next machine I'll be getting, and resources to explain just how different it is from a FDM printer and how to appropriately handle it are invaluable in these weeks leading up to my purchase. I want to go into this much more informed than I did with my first FDM printer. Also, you're a fantastic editor, these videos are so enjoyable to watch! I'm recommending them to all my maker friends, new and experienced alike.
I want to make the life size version of the ultra swol pikachu of yours my guy. I recently got an ender 3 and had already made crap ton of prints and figure to maybe break them down to parts and print it to like a small dog size! Need a crap ton of filaments first tho! XD
@@AnickYT I've tried the paper method but if I do it towards the corner and make my way in, something seems off, I've done it for hours, it's been months since I printed anything
I like and enjoy these videos... is like going to a 3d printer store where there is a very knowledgeable guy who wants you to get the best for your buck. Other channels are guys who fill the screen with their faces because they can't allow 1 minute without being the center of attention... these videos are not only educative but truly enjoyable. Thank you for this... this is how it should be everywhere. Sadly you are not the norm but the exception.
I watched too many videos about resin printers and nobody explained it that good way, especially at the beginning we the details you can reach with a resin printer, great job!
I run my used IPA through a coffee filter or two once a week and it removes all of the resin, thus saving the now expensive/hardish to find IPA, to be reused. Cheap and easy
I can't believe how detailed this printing method is. I dont know how they get the light so focused and precise throughout the entire layer, and also how it stays so precise when hardening the liquid medium. This is blowing my mind.
Thank you! I've been printing with a Prusa filament printer for about a year now, and have wondered about adding a resin printer to gain finer detail for small parts. This tells me exactly what I need to know, in a concise way.
I've got both types and they have different uses in my workshop. FDM is great for prototypes and just about everything not needing super detail. Resin printers are awesome for detailed models. The resin printers are messier for sure, but I'm so glad I have both. Thanks for a good educational video.
@@rogg0224 Which resin printer? It depends on your budget and needs really. The Elegoo range is fine, personally, I like Anycubic as they are inexpensive here in Australia but do a good job. If I was to buy another it would be the Photon Mono X as I would like to be able to print larger parts sometimes. The Photon Mono would be a good low cost beginner resin printer. Oh and buy a wash and cure unit if you possibly can , it saves a lot of mess :) Cheers!
Tom, I love your video's and this one exemplifies your thorough and easy to listen to approach. Great content and delivery as usual. When the Elegoo Saturn becomes readily available that will be my first Resin printer to add to my FDM printers. I'm not looking forward to the post-processing and I'll need to do some research about safely disposing of the resin wash material before I get one.
I bought an original Saturn and an original Mars. While not having the same resolution as the newer revisions they are still great machines. I bought them first and recently bought an Elegoo Neptune FDM printer. The only thing I dislike about resin printers is that the parts are brittle and very thin parts tend to warp after curing. BTW, if you are having trouble with the part not releasing from the FEP you can wipe a thin layer of liquid teflon lubricate on the FEP. It can really help.
Thanks Thomas for all the effort you put into the Resin Printer (Ep3) video, I found it very informative and helpful in figuring out what resin printer to buy and post wash and cure accessories to focus on.
I learned a neat trick (can't believe I didn't come to this on my own) for disposing of uncured resin, in a far less hazardous way and form: 1: If mixed with a solvent, separate or leave the solder to vaporize. 2: transfer the waste resin to a disposable container if needed. 3: By chamber or sunlight, cure the resin in the container. As a sidenote, if you might need some rough material stock for a _subtractive_ fabrication project later on, make a quick n dirty disposable mold in the shape your preferred stock, and cure it in that. This will not be layer based but a homogenous solid block, so it can be machined and worked rough, and make some pretty solid things. You can also embed objects, as long as they're compatible with the resin for its exposure while uncured, and doesn't introduce air bubbles or cavities.,the latter will significantly weaken the stock.
No word on dimensional accuracy? Because I've had problems producing parts that have the exact dimensions they were designed to have. One problem was that the printer (a Mars) was apparently not configured correctly and the other is that resins do shrink while they cure. And the shrinkage depends on the kind of resin used. That's not much of a problem when printing miniatures and that kind of stuff, but it is when trying to create something actually useful.
This is a fantastic well-detailed video explaining the ins and outs of resin printing. I have a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K on order that I can't wait to add to my little farm of 3 FDM printers. Thanks for sharing the knowledge, Tom!
Most of the sun's UV-C is absorbed by the atmosphere (Ozone layer), so there is much less of that than UV-B and UV-A. If you REALLY need UV-C (erasing eproms) you need a germicidal lamp.
Good video, but one question. What do you do with all that resin after your print that is left in the vat? Do you just put the cover back on the printer and save it for next time, does it have to be removed and cleaned, etc? Thanks to anyone who can clarify that.
@@vlonevlone2319 you can let the resin sit for a couple of days so long as the printer cover is on - but you store the unused resin back in the bottle it came from using those paper funnels that come with it - and obliviously you’ll need to buy more as well (but they’re very cheap, like a 50 pack is maybe $7 or something). So just strain the resin using the paper filter, and you’re good to go. I’ve had no issues so far (although I’m still only a month).
This is a great tutorial, I knew next to nothing about 3D printing, now I’m excited about possibly making my own parts in the future. My question is since I’m looking to 3D print parts to then cast into metals using “lost wax/pla” method, and I want to get as fine details as possible, can I use a resin printer or do I need to go with filament printer? In the lost wax/pla method, after making plaster mold of one’s part, the next step is to melt out the wax/pla in a high heat kiln oven, but can it be done with the resin, maybe there’s a specific kind of resin? Thanks again
Again on the price was missing the electricity costs, which at FDM printing can make the same money as the PLA. Also good Material can cost 50€ / per spool too. Don't forget how unhealthy resin gases are. It's basically the Acryl used in Nail salons. Then you should compare by volume not weight, because different materials are denser or lighter. At FDM you can compare by Spools, which typically have 330m of 1.75mm filament.
To reiterate what Thomas said definitely. I run a print lab and we use a half dozen sla machines in a very well maintained lab environment and even with this resin seems to get everywhere. Resin can be toxic if accidently consumed and also prolonged exposure to unprotected skin can result in allergic reactions. These are new allergies can result in burning sensations and rashes on exposed skin. This is something that happens over a long period of use. SLA is definitely for an adult who understands the risks and can mitigate those risks. This is not to scare anyone from sla machines, just be careful and take precautions.
For a 10 year old, I would recommend neither. A resin printer is just a disaster waiting to happen with the toxic resin. But a filament printer still has an exposed heat bed that can go above 100 degrees Celsius, a heated nozzle which goes much higher, moving parts which will not rip your finger off but might still hurt a child, several hundred watts of energy flowing through usually exposed cables, exposed rotating fans. For supervised introduction to the technology, maybe 14 years is a good age to start. To leave the child alone with the printer, that's more like 16+. You also need to think about what to print. Do you want a 10 year old child to browse the internet for 3d models or use a modeling program? I don't think so. If you absolutely want to do 3d printing with such a young child, get a filament printer, browse for some cool models together with your child, print it for them and then get them a nice painting set to color the models. When they get older and learn how to operate the printer / slicer / modeller themselves, they will appreciate the learned painting skills.
I owned a FDM filament printer, but sold it because I got fed up with spaghetti, nozzle clogs, bed leveling, twicking all the time, etc. Now I have a resin printer that just works.
Hey Thomas, Awesome video as usual. I have just recently gotten my Creality LD-002R Resin printer and I am enjoying it but it does not replace my FDM, there is a place for each printer.
Kinda funny how the generally most off-putting aspect, handling of hazardous resins and solvents, is the least of my worries. Years and years of studying chemistry finally pay off 😂 I also found your resin vs. filament toughness tests very interesting. Just ordered my first printer. Mars 3. Let's see how it goes :)
@@rogg0224 You don’t need to worry about any “pains” when it comes to resin printing. Amelia isn’t exactly wrong as there are still safety concerns that need to be followed accordingly such as wearing Nitril gloves (NOT LATEX), eye protection, making sure not to spill resin or having precautions for if there is a spill, etc are all things that need to be kept in mind. Though none of these take away from the fun of printing! Sometimes the steps and risks may look daunting, but they become muscle memory very quickly and are surprisingly easy to follow. If it helps, I like to think of resin printers as kitchen appliances: something like an oven could cause serious harm, but the threat can be easily avoided.
Finally got my elegoo Saturn preorder! It's been 4 months and this video has been super helpful to remember the other preparation i need to account for. I wonder if my chiron could print a pickle jar that would work...
I would like to add that prints tend to warp or get brittle over time. Printing a perfectly straight bar that will stay straight during curing is difficult to impossible. Even commercial vendors won't be able to achieve this. The resin just shrinks when it cures and since it's not fully cured in the printer to reduce light bleedthrough into adjacent layers, the partially UV-opaque resin will never evenly cure later but induce asymmetric stresses that lead to warped and shattered prints a year down the road.
The printing costs is not the greatest argument as I rarely print with using a 20 euro roll of PLA plastic. Sure, you can do that, but in practice you choose the nice PLA with added things that’s more like 30-40. And I would just ventilate the room properly, a mask is a bit overkill when doing that. Also very important to use the proper gloves, nitrile. To which, in time and when unlucky, you can also get a response to. Safety boils down to proper knowledge and a well though out workflow. Using gloves is for instance not necessarily safer as with gloves on you tend to touch other things all the time. Then take them off and still touch the resin. :) That also requires a room with the rule of always-on gloves or not and being way more careful.
resin printers are awesome... but the replacement parts (specifically the lcd screens) being so hard/expencive/special-snowflake proprietary (which makes it both harder AND more expencive to get, and you are scrood if the part is discontinued and you arent rich enough to buy a whole new machine) turns me off completely from them. the resin degrading in sunlight far faster than plastic also turns me off greatly since I print working parts, not pretty parts. maybe in the future, if they are more sustainable, I'll look into these things.
Even though the FEP film or Silicone of a SLA printer wears out quite easily some times, I certain enjoy the simplicity of the machine and it not breaking on me.
Interesting. I've worked with UV resin in other projects, so I knew some of the handling issues already, but I had never come across issues with sunlight causing discoloration like that. I wonder if it's specific to the resin used in these printers. If I decide to expand into resin printing, I'll have to remember I might not be able to use my favorite curing method. Pity, since Colorado boasts an average of 300 days of full sun a year.
You are the first person to mention what one can do with the resin contaminated water! Please dispose of this hazardous water at your local recycling center, if they accept this.
Is it possible to use a UV curing lamp to polymerize the uncured resin in the cleaning solution for safer disposal, or does the resin lose that property in the bath?
Would a normal old style fluorescent black light work well for final curing of parts, and would it also work for solidifying liquid resin residue in a wash container so that it could be strained and disposed of?
I have an old cheapo Ender 3 filament printer. It prints 0.12 mm layer heights without a problem. I'm not sure where you're getting the 0.5 - 1 mm minimum from.
Why start with a color LCD screen and mod it to mono when mono-only ones already came out a long time ago and you'd just need to make a high-res version of one of those?
A question for you people that do use LCD based mSLA printers: has any of you tried to repair the dead LCD by replacing the polarizer films? Because the one big barrier for me entering the LCD mSLA printer thing is replacing LCD panels, but I sure wouldn't mind going through the trouble of removing the polarizers of a screen to revive it. I can definitely imagine that what degrades on the LCDs through the long exposure to UV light would be the polarizer filter glue, but of course that's just my theory. Had this happen to a tablet LCD that just started to develop a weird blob on it's screen, when I opened it up it was all gooey.
You are truly the gold-standard of 3D Printer RUclips content. I always send your links to new people looking for their first printers.
Also your collaboration with CNC Kitchen is good combination. He is fascinated by the physical properties and you more the quality and tolerances. Perhaps there is room for a series that combines the two? A project where you optimize it and he tests and revises and or anneals/processes it? For instance could the brackets you made before be radically improved by annealing? It would be cool to see real world improvements in strength of an object as well as shrinkage and downsides instead of just test coupons.
It is refreshing seeing people that are passionate by the content they specialize in instead of trying to be everything to everybody. :)
Finally someone with a Real disclaimer that explains the dangers, inc disposal of waste :) Great job @thomas
What you said was really helpful, but I wish you made a quick video montage of how does the printing process looks like. From filling it up with resin, taking it off, washing and then curing. I still would like to see it.
I second this
@@victoriabutterfly6521 Me too
I’m glad you have an “On Air” sign, otherwise I wouldn’t know if I’m actually watching this.
One advice I've got from a comment in the video "Resin 3D Printing Safety - Important for Beginners!" (by "Maker's Muse") . You can reuse the alcohol, if you cure the dissolved resign using UV light. The problem is that you need a really good filter to remove the particles, as they could be really small.
The benefit is that the cured particles are not toxic, so it is easier to dispose of them.
To make it clear, the video itself recommends leaving the alcohol to evaporate, that leaves only the resign.
Can you use a simple coffee filter to filter the particles?
@@arcadebit1551 No. The coffee filter allows coffee powder to pass through it.
I think one of the comments in the thread said that he has tried with coffee filter, but most of the particles are too small for it.
@@user-jp7tw3sd3x what about cheese cloth I think thar what it's called? Not sure if thats better or worst than coffee filters
Another FANTASTIC video !
You were meant to teach !
You did such a great job, and you know your stuff !
As a beginner with wanting to learn about these machines, especially the resin printer, I am able to understand everything that you are saying, or showing us.
That alone gives me confidence in moving forward with learning these skills
I can’t express just how much this video was a wealth of basic information for which you build upon for the next video of this series !!
Thank you, very much !
I am truly, very grateful of your time, effort, and the sharing of your knowledge !!
Julie
Canada
thank you very much!
Please don’t ever stop making videos like these 🥺
A video about Carbon M1 resin printers would be interesting!
"Carbon's CLIP technology eliminates the peel process by using an oxygenated layer of resin between the resin tray window and the print itself. This layer creates a dead zone which allows the print to emerge continuously from the resin tray, skipping the peel process"
They're supposedly around 100x faster, which in turn probably gives them a longer lifespan and lower operating costs.
Only if mortal men could purchase them without having to rent as a business or other organization.
Do they use Light and Oxygen?
Dude ... If you have a lot of money go for it - but it's waaaay out of reach for most of us - also it's a service, so it's a B&B printer, that's like asking Tom to review the stratasys line
As a sufferer of crohns disease I have a weak immune system already and take immu-suppressant drugs daily, I wish someone made a video like this a few years back when I got into resin printing and bought a Mars 2, i ended up having a severe reaction to the resin just from the fumes produced by the liquid, Wearing respirator helped but I had to give up the resin hobby, can still enjoy the FDM part of the hobby and got plenty of friends with resin machines who can print for me. Thanks for making these videos its something i will recommend peeps to watch when starting out
Thank you so much for this series, Tom! The Elegoo Mars is the next machine I'll be getting, and resources to explain just how different it is from a FDM printer and how to appropriately handle it are invaluable in these weeks leading up to my purchase. I want to go into this much more informed than I did with my first FDM printer. Also, you're a fantastic editor, these videos are so enjoyable to watch! I'm recommending them to all my maker friends, new and experienced alike.
"This is how the sun looks like in case you forgot" Damn that hit close to home
Why he do that tho
Holy crap my Ultra Swole Pikachu is in Thomas Sanladerer's video XDDD
I want to make the life size version of the ultra swol pikachu of yours my guy. I recently got an ender 3 and had already made crap ton of prints and figure to maybe break them down to parts and print it to like a small dog size! Need a crap ton of filaments first tho! XD
@@AnickYT I gave up on my ender. Can't seem to level the bed no matter how many videos I see
@@bgcm1995 Have you tried the hand burn paper method?
@@AnickYT I've tried the paper method but if I do it towards the corner and make my way in, something seems off, I've done it for hours, it's been months since I printed anything
@@bgcm1995 Have you tried the calibration gcode? It's really helpful on it.
Also, pla, abs, or petg. And don't tell me that you are using tpu.
I like and enjoy these videos... is like going to a 3d printer store where there is a very knowledgeable guy who wants you to get the best for your buck.
Other channels are guys who fill the screen with their faces because they can't allow 1 minute without being the center of attention... these videos are not only educative but truly enjoyable.
Thank you for this... this is how it should be everywhere. Sadly you are not the norm but the exception.
I watched too many videos about resin printers and nobody explained it that good way, especially at the beginning we the details you can reach with a resin printer, great job!
I'm really enjoying this series! Thanks for putting it together Tom! Take care!
Very watchable and informative series ... your presentation style is succinct and relaxed ... thanks for your content.
I run my used IPA through a coffee filter or two once a week and it removes all of the resin, thus saving the now expensive/hardish to find IPA, to be reused. Cheap and easy
Thank you for your hard work to put out so much good content.
I can't believe how detailed this printing method is. I dont know how they get the light so focused and precise throughout the entire layer, and also how it stays so precise when hardening the liquid medium. This is blowing my mind.
Thank you! I've been printing with a Prusa filament printer for about a year now, and have wondered about adding a resin printer to gain finer detail for small parts. This tells me exactly what I need to know, in a concise way.
Thank you for just explaining how it works to an average person. Took me 5 videos before someone just clearly explained the process.
I'm really glad you did this episode. I think I'll stick to the filament printers for now. Thank you SO much for discussing the safety information.
I've got both types and they have different uses in my workshop.
FDM is great for prototypes and just about everything not needing super detail.
Resin printers are awesome for detailed models.
The resin printers are messier for sure, but I'm so glad I have both.
Thanks for a good educational video.
Which one do you suggest
@@rogg0224 Which resin printer? It depends on your budget and needs really.
The Elegoo range is fine, personally, I like Anycubic as they are inexpensive here in Australia but do a good job.
If I was to buy another it would be the Photon Mono X as I would like to be able to print larger parts sometimes.
The Photon Mono would be a good low cost beginner resin printer. Oh and buy a wash and cure unit if you possibly can , it saves a lot of mess :)
Cheers!
@@ausfoodgarden thanks for the advice, I will buy the mars 2 pro! :)
@@rogg0224 You should be happy with that, Hope you make some awesome stuff :)
@@ausfoodgarden Thanks!
Thanks a bunch Tom... This is a great series, and looking forward to the rest!
Best 3D printer introduction series I have found over the last week. Good work :-)
WOW! Thank you for all of that very helpful info! I plan to get a resin printer soon.
Same
Tom, I love your video's and this one exemplifies your thorough and easy to listen to approach. Great content and delivery as usual. When the Elegoo Saturn becomes readily available that will be my first Resin printer to add to my FDM printers. I'm not looking forward to the post-processing and I'll need to do some research about safely disposing of the resin wash material before I get one.
I bought an original Saturn and an original Mars. While not having the same resolution as the newer revisions they are still great machines. I bought them first and recently bought an Elegoo Neptune FDM printer. The only thing I dislike about resin printers is that the parts are brittle and very thin parts tend to warp after curing. BTW, if you are having trouble with the part not releasing from the FEP you can wipe a thin layer of liquid teflon lubricate on the FEP. It can really help.
Thanks Thomas for all the effort you put into the Resin Printer (Ep3) video, I found it very informative and helpful in figuring out what resin printer to buy and post wash and cure accessories to focus on.
i like how there there isnt a cut for every second of the video. The presenation is so good.
Commenting as I move through this series for the algorithm! Great Video!
oh yeah... resin printer goodness time
This is a perfect video for curing me of wanting a resin printer at all.
I learned a neat trick (can't believe I didn't come to this on my own) for disposing of uncured resin, in a far less hazardous way and form:
1: If mixed with a solvent, separate or leave the solder to vaporize.
2: transfer the waste resin to a disposable container if needed.
3: By chamber or sunlight, cure the resin in the container.
As a sidenote, if you might need some rough material stock for a _subtractive_ fabrication project later on, make a quick n dirty disposable mold in the shape your preferred stock, and cure it in that. This will not be layer based but a homogenous solid block, so it can be machined and worked rough, and make some pretty solid things. You can also embed objects, as long as they're compatible with the resin for its exposure while uncured, and doesn't introduce air bubbles or cavities.,the latter will significantly weaken the stock.
No word on dimensional accuracy? Because I've had problems producing parts that have the exact dimensions they were designed to have. One problem was that the printer (a Mars) was apparently not configured correctly and the other is that resins do shrink while they cure. And the shrinkage depends on the kind of resin used.
That's not much of a problem when printing miniatures and that kind of stuff, but it is when trying to create something actually useful.
Resins don't shrink. There are no voc's flashing off like a paint drying etc. For higher accuracy use a higher solid resin.
love your thought provoking style my man.
7:47 as someone watching this in the middle of december in northern europe, thanks for the reminder.
This is a fantastic well-detailed video explaining the ins and outs of resin printing. I have a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K on order that I can't wait to add to my little farm of 3 FDM printers. Thanks for sharing the knowledge, Tom!
Most of the sun's UV-C is absorbed by the atmosphere (Ozone layer), so there is much less of that than UV-B and UV-A. If you REALLY need UV-C (erasing eproms) you need a germicidal lamp.
What an excellent intro. Thanks I've learned loads and can't wait to get one.
Can you do a vid on metal 3d printers I keep getting ads on them all the time
Katherine Morton printers that print with metal or printers made out of metal?
@@frenchfriesderp9103 i think they mean printers like the metal X :) or markforged machines
That thing cost 99.5k USD. I doubt something 90% of us would ever buy
thanks Thomas for the clear and unbiased guidance. Very useful!!
Thanks Tom, some more info reg applications, slicing software will help.
Good video, but one question. What do you do with all that resin after your print that is left in the vat? Do you just put the cover back on the printer and save it for next time, does it have to be removed and cleaned, etc? Thanks to anyone who can clarify that.
Have u found the answer ?
@@vlonevlone2319 you can let the resin sit for a couple of days so long as the printer cover is on - but you store the unused resin back in the bottle it came from using those paper funnels that come with it - and obliviously you’ll need to buy more as well (but they’re very cheap, like a 50 pack is maybe $7 or something). So just strain the resin using the paper filter, and you’re good to go. I’ve had no issues so far (although I’m still only a month).
This was an excellent and very easy to understand starting primer. Thanks a lot.
Thank you for this honest review, you convinced me to keep using a filament printer. Safety first.
I really like resin printers but it’s hard to print moving parts such as emmets gear bearing
Great vid man. My ender3p knows it's place. It rolls reliable as heck running a ,8mm permanently now I've purchased a SLA.
This is a great tutorial, I knew next to nothing about 3D printing, now I’m excited about possibly making my own parts in the future. My question is since I’m looking to 3D print parts to then cast into metals using “lost wax/pla” method, and I want to get as fine details as possible, can I use a resin printer or do I need to go with filament printer? In the lost wax/pla method, after making plaster mold of one’s part, the next step is to melt out the wax/pla in a high heat kiln oven, but can it be done with the resin, maybe there’s a specific kind of resin? Thanks again
Again on the price was missing the electricity costs, which at FDM printing can make the same money as the PLA. Also good Material can cost 50€ / per spool too.
Don't forget how unhealthy resin gases are. It's basically the Acryl used in Nail salons.
Then you should compare by volume not weight, because different materials are denser or lighter. At FDM you can compare by Spools, which typically have 330m of 1.75mm filament.
Thanks so much for these videos. Amazing quality and great information.
Very much appreciated!!!
From the safety aspect, for a 10 year old child would you recommend a filament printer rather than a resin printer?
Absolutely.
To reiterate what Thomas said definitely. I run a print lab and we use a half dozen sla machines in a very well maintained lab environment and even with this resin seems to get everywhere. Resin can be toxic if accidently consumed and also prolonged exposure to unprotected skin can result in allergic reactions. These are new allergies can result in burning sensations and rashes on exposed skin. This is something that happens over a long period of use. SLA is definitely for an adult who understands the risks and can mitigate those risks. This is not to scare anyone from sla machines, just be careful and take precautions.
For a 10 year old, I would recommend neither. A resin printer is just a disaster waiting to happen with the toxic resin. But a filament printer still has an exposed heat bed that can go above 100 degrees Celsius, a heated nozzle which goes much higher, moving parts which will not rip your finger off but might still hurt a child, several hundred watts of energy flowing through usually exposed cables, exposed rotating fans. For supervised introduction to the technology, maybe 14 years is a good age to start. To leave the child alone with the printer, that's more like 16+. You also need to think about what to print. Do you want a 10 year old child to browse the internet for 3d models or use a modeling program? I don't think so.
If you absolutely want to do 3d printing with such a young child, get a filament printer, browse for some cool models together with your child, print it for them and then get them a nice painting set to color the models. When they get older and learn how to operate the printer / slicer / modeller themselves, they will appreciate the learned painting skills.
Awesome video, mate. You did an incredible job at explaining it all - and that in a very sympathetic way. Thanks a lot!
thanks I forgot what the sun looked like lol 7:47
What
I owned a FDM filament printer, but sold it because I got fed up with spaghetti, nozzle clogs, bed leveling, twicking all the time, etc. Now I have a resin printer that just works.
Hey Thomas, Awesome video as usual. I have just recently gotten my Creality LD-002R Resin printer and I am enjoying it but it does not replace my FDM, there is a place for each printer.
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me after 8 months of quarantine: ?
7:48
me: oh right that thing
Kinda funny how the generally most off-putting aspect, handling of hazardous resins and solvents, is the least of my worries. Years and years of studying chemistry finally pay off 😂
I also found your resin vs. filament toughness tests very interesting.
Just ordered my first printer. Mars 3. Let's see how it goes :)
Wow, those look way better than any filament prints I've seen
They look absolutely stunning IRL, too!
This is your greatest video. Good job.
Could you just Cure all of the waste resin and then dispose of it in the trash?? Just ordered my first resin printer, super excited
This video is exactly what I needed
great video, helped me understand resin printing , thankyou
God I wish resin wasn't such a pain In the butt. We need a new printing technology
What is the pain, I'm planning on getting one.
@@rogg0224 toxicity. IPA baths and lots of IPA toxic fumes.
resins are dangerous.
also curing them
@@rogg0224 You don’t need to worry about any “pains” when it comes to resin printing. Amelia isn’t exactly wrong as there are still safety concerns that need to be followed accordingly such as wearing Nitril gloves (NOT LATEX), eye protection, making sure not to spill resin or having precautions for if there is a spill, etc are all things that need to be kept in mind. Though none of these take away from the fun of printing! Sometimes the steps and risks may look daunting, but they become muscle memory very quickly and are surprisingly easy to follow. If it helps, I like to think of resin printers as kitchen appliances: something like an oven could cause serious harm, but the threat can be easily avoided.
@@paytonthielmann3305 Thanks! Maybe it's not going to be a hassle.
Finally got my elegoo Saturn preorder! It's been 4 months and this video has been super helpful to remember the other preparation i need to account for.
I wonder if my chiron could print a pickle jar that would work...
woah very informative video. I own a filament printer but didnt know much about resin printer. Thanks for the useful info! Great respect
Thank you. Finally an informed video.
7:47 come on man don't got to do me like that lol
Honestly, I still prefer the filament ones. Less hazmat risks, cheaper overall (machine AND materials) and extremely modular.
What would be a good beginner resin printer?
Elegoo Mars Pro (don't buy the elegoo mars, it's already quite old, the pro version has some improvements)
My favorite RUclipsr
What do you need when you get a resin printer? And what will it come with
I would like to add that prints tend to warp or get brittle over time. Printing a perfectly straight bar that will stay straight during curing is difficult to impossible. Even commercial vendors won't be able to achieve this. The resin just shrinks when it cures and since it's not fully cured in the printer to reduce light bleedthrough into adjacent layers, the partially UV-opaque resin will never evenly cure later but induce asymmetric stresses that lead to warped and shattered prints a year down the road.
The printing costs is not the greatest argument as I rarely print with using a 20 euro roll of PLA plastic. Sure, you can do that, but in practice you choose the nice PLA with added things that’s more like 30-40.
And I would just ventilate the room properly, a mask is a bit overkill when doing that. Also very important to use the proper gloves, nitrile. To which, in time and when unlucky, you can also get a response to. Safety boils down to proper knowledge and a well though out workflow. Using gloves is for instance not necessarily safer as with gloves on you tend to touch other things all the time. Then take them off and still touch the resin. :) That also requires a room with the rule of always-on gloves or not and being way more careful.
The cheapest gallon of vodka should be the same as IPA
Great breakdown. Thank you!
resin printers are awesome... but the replacement parts (specifically the lcd screens) being so hard/expencive/special-snowflake proprietary (which makes it both harder AND more expencive to get, and you are scrood if the part is discontinued and you arent rich enough to buy a whole new machine) turns me off completely from them. the resin degrading in sunlight far faster than plastic also turns me off greatly since I print working parts, not pretty parts.
maybe in the future, if they are more sustainable, I'll look into these things.
Thanks for the video very informative and interesting
Thank you for the info. Yep, resign printers are still not for me. A lot of mess to deal with as a hobby.
Thank you for also explaining how resin is dengerous, i know its toxic but i havent really heard anyone talk about how excatly it will harm you
Even though the FEP film or Silicone of a SLA printer wears out quite easily some times, I certain enjoy the simplicity of the machine and it not breaking on me.
Muscular pikachu is not real. He can't hurt you.
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8:20
Wow, great work! Keep it going
Great video but you did not say anything about how supports work on resin printers and how easy it is to remove them..
For washing, can the container be a standard plastic container? Like an old "leftover" bowl?
why i can not take old monitor, replace with UV led, get some rail and 1 motor for z axis, would be larger print area than even filament printers :D
Great video, extremely detailed and informative
Interesting. I've worked with UV resin in other projects, so I knew some of the handling issues already, but I had never come across issues with sunlight causing discoloration like that. I wonder if it's specific to the resin used in these printers. If I decide to expand into resin printing, I'll have to remember I might not be able to use my favorite curing method. Pity, since Colorado boasts an average of 300 days of full sun a year.
You are the first person to mention what one can do with the resin contaminated water! Please dispose of this hazardous water at your local recycling center, if they accept this.
great video, since this video is 2 years old is there a newer printer you recommend? One this isn't sponsored hah
Is it possible to use a UV curing lamp to polymerize the uncured resin in the cleaning solution for safer disposal, or does the resin lose that property in the bath?
Would a normal old style fluorescent black light work well for final curing of parts, and would it also work for solidifying liquid resin residue in a wash container so that it could be strained and disposed of?
What texture should the part feel like after curing? I keep getting different textures from rubber-like to rock hard.
I have an old cheapo Ender 3 filament printer. It prints 0.12 mm layer heights without a problem. I'm not sure where you're getting the 0.5 - 1 mm minimum from.
Why start with a color LCD screen and mod it to mono when mono-only ones already came out a long time ago and you'd just need to make a high-res version of one of those?
Very interesting, thank you!
A question for you people that do use LCD based mSLA printers: has any of you tried to repair the dead LCD by replacing the polarizer films? Because the one big barrier for me entering the LCD mSLA printer thing is replacing LCD panels, but I sure wouldn't mind going through the trouble of removing the polarizers of a screen to revive it.
I can definitely imagine that what degrades on the LCDs through the long exposure to UV light would be the polarizer filter glue, but of course that's just my theory. Had this happen to a tablet LCD that just started to develop a weird blob on it's screen, when I opened it up it was all gooey.
the IPA with resin in it, you can expose it to sunlight and the resin will cure, settle to the bottom, and can be strained out.
If I made resin lithophanes as gifts, are they going to burn if they are left by a sunny window?
Vielen Dank...immer sehr schon. Greetings from Sydney
This was a fantastic video. Thanks