Ultimate VEVOR DIESEL HEATER IN A BOX BUILD | DIY Tent Heater for Off-Grid Overlanding
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- In this video, I show you how to put together an #affordable, #overland ready, #weatherproof, #chinese #diesel #rooftoptent #heater setup that can be mounted outside a vehicle, on a spare tire, or elsewhere.
Channel Instagram: / lexus_offroad_adventures
PRODUCT LINKS:
HEATER-RELATED
Diesel Heater 5kw: s.vevor.com/bf...
Weatherproof Case: amzn.to/3CWqIlQ
OEM flexible exhaust pipe: amzn.to/3MOyumj
Parking Chocks for tire mount: amzn.to/3sdLrfW
Upgraded, lengthened 3” duct: amzn.to/3MLLoBe
Hole-saw kit: amzn.to/3F6mz10
Exhaust flange: amzn.to/3MNne9C
Heat sleeve: amzn.to/3yXGoE6
Ultra Copper exhaust gasket: amzn.to/3VKbtEX
Ratchet straps: amzn.to/3VLyeIM
ELECTRICAL ITEMS
Cut/Strip/Crimp tool: amzn.to/3TBBc0l
Weatherproof electrical junction (UPDATED SINGLE CONNECTOR): amzn.to/3B5kxep
Crimp connection kit: amzn.to/3eKJWCG
Recommended butt connector kit with solder ring: amzn.to/3gl2nhM
100ft 14AWG wire roll: amzn.to/3gdXxTk
IF YOU HAVE A JACKERY OR SIMILAR UNIT, use this cigarette lighter style input for power. Just connect the positive/negative cables with the male connecters to this: amzn.to/3ThCXQQ
Upgrades not in this video:
Quick-disconnect weatherproof terminal I talked about in the video (hope you know how to solder): amzn.to/3MMMjkS
7L fuel tank: amzn.to/3sc8eIR
Outlet flange aluminum (so it doesn’t melt lol): amzn.to/3giRVHv
#overlanding #gx470 #dieselheater #overlanding #offroad #lexusgx470 #gxor #gxorsocal #flexus #lexusoffroad #lx470 #lexuslx470 #lexuslx #lexusoffroadadventures #overlanding #overland #overlanding4x4 #overlandlife #overlander #toyota #toyotatacoma #toyota4runner #toyota4x4
![Ready for Winter Camping: Build your own Diesel Heater - Enable [CC] for Instructions and Tips!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ImwSM5Cuk4I/mqdefault.jpg)
Guys, please check out the build update video! I took a lot of your feedback from the comments and improved the efficiency and packaging of the diesel heater build! ruclips.net/video/qRBNK1C_jf0/видео.html
Might want to consider adding a heater intake so that you get the benefit from reheating the air within the tent so that it doesn’t have to always pull freezing cold air. Plus it will help avoid pulling the diesel exhaust into the heater which could be dangerous in a small tent.
Many have proven it creates condensation. I’ll take condensation over co2 intoxication tho
You can swag a 3/4" copper pipe with a 7/8" expansion tool. Coiled copper tubing is the easiest to expand. It will slide over both the exhaust tip from the heater and the exhaust exit mount.
I made mine with medium Ridgid tool box. It has plenty for the heater. The exhaust pipe went out in a straight line. The intake pipe stayed inside.
You don't have to exit the box with the intake filter. Just provide ventilation.
I had plenty of room left to place 36ah lithium battery inside with all the controller and wires attached to the lid.
I even added solar controller inside the box. I can charge the battery with solar.
I also added 12v socket and XT60 on the outside for charging and use as power supply.
I cut 3" holes with vents. The vents have 12v fans to cool the inside the box.
I can also control the heater with the Bluetooth.
The fuel pump can be mounted straight up and down. Just not level or down wards on the outlet.
The fuel line has quick disconnect.
The heater is clean as a whistle. No wires and fuel line to tangle.
Thanks for the write-up! Sounds like a really cool all-in-one setup. I updated this one in a later video and cleaned it up a lot, but I probably keep improving it as time goes with ideas like these!
Nice build and it suits your needs.
You have the exhaust muffler flat in the horizontal position. It needs to be in the vertical position. Why? There is a small weep hole. The weep hole points downward for condensation drainage. On the intake side, it is not an air filter, it is a silencer (which really does not work all that well). Upgrade to an actual sir filter.
Yep, I’ve rotated the muffler down for proper weep hole operation. I just kinda threw it on to see if it quieted the exhaust down at all, which it did.
I’ll look for a proper air filter, thanks!
I’m pretty sure there’s a hole in the muffler, which should be pointed downwards for drainage. Pretty sure I’ve heard people say the smoke issue got better when they fixed this
Yes the muffler has been turned 90 degrees since then.
You should use a rotopax for the diesel tank with their spare tire ratchet strap mount. Use that same strap to hold your heater on
How do you find this stuff? 😂amazing! I wish we live closer.
Your intakes will not withstand driving rain or condensation on muffler intake. I would suggest you either put right angle flange on heater input, or a pipe to recirculate tent air, and that will improve its efficieny. In regard to burner intake there are 2 options to my mind. One put a shield plate over its filter come silenser, or 2, put a right angle fitting so intake faces downwards.
I will be addressing the air intake muffler soon. See the latest video for how I’m achieving circulation. It’s a work in progress, thanks for the tips!
Another amazing vid, great work man
Thanks!
Nice build, i am also on the verge of finishing my setup. I am waiting for a metal flange so that it will keep up with the high temp output
I tried the aluminum elbow but it was not a true 3" OD/was really flimsy. I got an ABS piece and I'll see how it takes the heat. ABS is supposed to be good up to 175 degrees. Here’s the link: amzn.to/3NT3HVP
Cool, let us know if it's bending
@@myloalex for sure need to post an update video after I get a chance to use it snow camping
@@myloalex before I could test with the ABS, I just ended up getting a steel elbow. Works perfectly. I posted an update video called diesel heater efficiency mods a bit ago
The rubber gasket of the fuel pick up has to be on the outside of the fuel tank. The metal ring gives a better pressure on the rubber ring on to the tank.
Good point. I have since switched to a different (smaller) tank with this orientation
Does the diesel fuel not gel at a certain temperature?
I’m not severe winter camping at below 20 degrees F, so I haven’t had this issue. If you plan on camping at those temps, a warming device for the fuel tank might be necessary
damn man thank you for continuing the build. i am stalled due to funds on my GX but your videos have helped me a ton so far. cheers man!
Thanks so much for watching! Hopefully I can provide some ideas for the future. 🍻
More massive build updates coming soon!
Hey I notice you have 100ft of 14 awg wire listed for genera use.. but 16awg for the cigarette lighter for the power station. Is the power cord to the unit 14 or 16awg? Thank you!
I used 14 for power due to the length of wire. Some voltage drop could occur if the wires are too small/lead to inefficiency, heat, etc.
What gauge wire does the controller need? Like to extendrun it 10 to 15 feet to inside the vehicle.
I used a bunch of this stuff for the small gauge wire things amzn.to/3QzNPdU
@@lexus_offroad_adventures Good to know, any idea how much one can extend low voltage wire before getting too much voltage drop?
@@raczyk you’re going to get voltage drop with any length of wire but I haven’t tested the limit of when the controller starts to give out. Since it’s just a display, I don’t foresee voltage drop being an issue unless it’s extended a significant distance
Did you fuel line or filter get heat damage being so close to the exhaust pipe?
No the heat wrap works really well. I checked for that and at most the fuel line felt a bit warm in one spot but nothing to worry about
Where did you get the case, is 2kw or 5. I need this in my life.
This one was the 5kW. All parts should be in the description. Lmk if a link is broken or something
I also did an update video with a 2kW unit for more efficiency
This video was very informative and easy to understand. Thanks for sharing... Sub'd.
Thanks for watching!
in your build thread you link a waterproof connector.. do we need a 4 or 5 pin connector?
It would be 5 pin. 3 for the controller and 2 for power and gnd
@@lexus_offroad_adventures thanks for your great video, great teaching material. It's possible to use only 1 5pin connector right ?
@@alexislahiani13 Yes, I have upgraded to this one in a later video because it’s big enough to fit the power wires and adjustable enough to run the 3 controller wires: amzn.to/3B5kxep
You're drawing air in from where the exhaust comes out. These heaters are designed to draw air in and out into the living area, separate from the combustion air in and out.
Yep, working on getting that figured out. This was mostly a test to get the basic function down and it works really well. I also upgraded to a stainless steel elbow on the outlet. Slowly coming together
@@lexus_offroad_adventures obvious answer is to have another flexible pipe going into the van window, so one for inlet and one for outlet. Will be more efficient as it's heating warm air inside the van.
Just curious there a reason so have part of the exhaust (1 foot or so) on the case before exhausting it out? Would it be better to mount the heaters exhaust right against the case, and have it leave right away?
Yes you could do that but you need the metal pass-through anyway to prevent melting the case. I did it this way for ease of mounting and to keep things waterproof. Having the exhaust directly sticking out may invite in the weather.
How many hours will work this setup with car battery ?
I hope you don’t mean your starter battery. Definitely don’t use that one. If you have a second battery, we need to know a few things: what kind of car battery? AGM? Lead acid? How many amp-hours is it? Etc.
@@lexus_offroad_adventures i have AGM battery on my 3gen 4runner
check the condensation position from hot side pipe , its wrong
Please elaborate
Are you talking about the muffler weep hole?