Every time I'm working on something brother, I always find your videos and they help many times. You're the best brother, keep up the good honorable work.
I really like your videos. I am a technician at a small shop, and that's how we check for ball joint and tierod play. I like using my pry bar under the tire also. I can feel any give at all through the bar. Great videos!
Thanks to this and another site gave me the opportunity to check the front end on a left dragging Australian Ford Falcon Sedan . I will be replacing balljoints first then all front bushes . Then I might venture to the back after a skilled mechanic has checked it out. Thanks
Good video! I had a hub/bearing fail on my '03 Ranger 4x4 a few weeks ago, only 67k miles. I had put all 4 ball joints on it last year and the tie rods are fine....but after hearing the destructive noise it made and making it home I jacked it up and you could shift the tire/wheel around almost as much as the truck you're using in this video. Scary! Ordered new Timken/Ford units, installed, and fine now. That hub was in really bad shape. There was at least 4-5 of the roller bearings inside that were just gone, probably in chunks and pieces inside....
+FUGYOO Yeah I don't like the flare and music some of these guys are using now to spice up their videos. I am just going to concentrate on being professional and work on adding a bit of personality.
Thanks for your insight on this matter, I had a repetitive rumble noise. Now I know why, the upper and lower ball joints are bad, both left and right sides are done @120k 06 F150 4.2 XLT
Brought a Grand Marquis to a FORD dealer for an alignment and tires. Before I went I checked out the front like you did, replaced a bad idler arm. Everything seemed tight. I watched the tech do the inspection, he used a long crowbar, came back with bad outers and pitman arm. Quoted me 400. I declined the repair, on the way home bought the Moog parts with my discounts though. I did find some play with a crowbar on those parts. The tierods seemed a tad bit loose(I did move/rotate them by hand) but otherwise the front end was solid. Everything was corroded to the sleeve and I ended up replacing the parts anyway. I'm surprised though a dealer would suggest those repairs and test the front end using a crowbar. Seems the parts had some kind of spring in them and the ball socket is starting to wear.
+alb12345672 Another way I did not show for the larger trucks is to use a prybar under the wheel to check for socket wear. We use that method mainly on the superduty trucks.
+FordTechMakuloco He used the prybar against the LCA(not the wheel) and the sleeve to check the tie rods. They had up and down spring loaded play, but otherwise tight. The FSM also specifies tie rod ball joints also need to be tested for torque to move and rotate the stud. Some of my joints failed those tests for minimum effort. I guess that is for hard to track down steering issues. The pitman arm actually could fail for more than .1" vertical movement with clamp or prybar according the FSM. Tomorrow I go back for an alignment, should be quick with the new sleeves.
i have a mild random clunking at low speed. I will perform this check to see. I had a worst Clunk at all speeds and it was a worn out strut wobbling. I used your Strut video to replace those. I think i have something else starting to wear and this will help isolate it. Thanks.
Thanks for the great video but the way you were going at the 9:00 and 3:00 position it look like from the inside that the wheel bearing was bad I didn't see too much of the outer tie rod move and it looked like the whole wheel was all out of whack I don't know that's the way I saw the video but thank again for the video
I think I saw what you saw, at the 2:50 mark, what I also would think may be a bad bearing. I see what I think may be excessive play in the CV joint boot and wheel bearing area in his video when he was showing the outer tie rod. I'm helping with a neighbor's 2005 f150 with similar movement after replacing bad inner and outer tie rods, the ball joints check out were replaced a few years ago, and check out as good, but there is still excessive slop when shaking neighbor's tire, and this video is the best example of what I see on his truck. I've been through a few you tubes tonight and would be very grateful for further explanation.
Yes you can check the wheel bearing like that too the 12 and 6 but most importantly for the wheel bearing spin the wheel of really fast so you'll hear a humming sound
Its amazing from my experience with 3 like model vehicles with grease zerks, how much longer front end components last from just one greasing per year. I've seen more than triple the life out of these parts when greased vs not greased. Its too bad so many cars don't have these any more, but zerks do sell fewer parts.
All greased parts used to have grease fittings. Money making scam across the board. Planned obsolescence and work for mechanics due to specialty tools and things backyard mechanics just cannot do without special tools and facilities. That is our society now. The big scam. My wife just today was not allowed to take her carry-on with her on the plane because she had a purse too. So she had to check in the carry-on for 25 dollars so she could keep her purse on her during the flight. Crap everywhere. Garbage really
Yea I have to do these checks asap! I have 9-3 play, granted its minimal. But steering is very loose & ive got a rotational whine when turning or letting off the gas. I assumed it was wheel bearings, but now I think i need to check tie rod ends cause the boot is clearly leaking grease.
thanks for the video👍 I had vibrations at 60mph and above. I was about to go to the crooked shops and/or stealerships to have them troubleshoot. I watched your video and I found that my outer tie rod nut had backed off but the cotter key kept it from backing off completely so the tie rod end was just jiggling inside the socket. The clunking noise was real audible when I jacked up that side and moved it with my hands at 3 and 9 o clock position but was not audible when on the highway. There wasnt much gouging or cutting into the tie rod end insert so I just found another castle nut a tad bit taller to line up the cotter key hole when at full torque. Imagine how much those crooked shops and stealerships would try to charge me if I wouldve brought it to them?!? "yes sir you need a new steering rack and it'll cost $1500 " 😫😫😫
I just had my brother bounce on my front bumper and I put the palm of my hand on the joints. I felt it pop in and out as well heard a clunk on the upper ball joint. Is that a good method? 👍
I have a 2017 fusion titanium fwd. just replaced my tires and brakes. When I hit a bump I was drifting. When I hit water car would hydro bad. How would you rule out an electronic rack and pinion? With it being electronic would it throw a code? Is there an option to auto correct? Thanks in advance love the channel!
So if you have a torsion bar type suspension you want to jack from the lower control arm? But if you have a strut type suspension you want to jack from a cross member? And only jack one wheel up at a time right?
I have a question: If there is no movement at 12 and 6, and no movement vertically using a pry bar under the tire, BUT there is movement when using the prybar between the knucke and ball joint (real close to the ball joint) does that mean they are good or bad?
I had the same play left to right but then my buddy noticed the steering wheel moving. After one of us held the wheel there was no play at all. Could that still be tie rod issues or did the steering just not lock?
I have a 2005 Ford Sport Trac do I have to load the lower control arm to check the tie rods and ball joints? Meaning do I have to put a floor jack or something under the lower control arm? Thank you everybody. I see you jacked the truck up under the LCA
Thank you so much for this video. I have couple of questions and hope you would reply back. I've been asking this for sometimes now and would really appreciate you replying back. (1) My steering vibrates (and somtimes turns left or right) when I drive over gravels and potholes in SLOW SPEED. (2) The steering shakes when I go over 70mph and apply brake. Meanwhile, I recently noticed that the tie rod on the front right has play. So, I'm just wondering if the tie rod is the reason that my steering vibrates over gravels at SLOW SPEED and shakes rigorously when I apply brakes at HIGH SPEED. I've ordered a pair of disc rotors and tie rods, still I'm just curious if I've jumped the gun too quickly. Thank you so much for the help!!!
@@Danny-js2yc Yes. Changing the rotors and both the outer and inner tie rods solved the problem for me. I had the rotors skimmed before any of these issues, so I think that made the rotors too thin or out of shape. That's the reason for the steering vibration (and wandering)when applying the brake. The vibration over potholes and uneven roads in slow speed were caused by either the inner tie rods or outer tie rods or maybe both. So, that problem is solved after changing both the inner and outer tie rods. I hope you get the issue fixed as well.
@@amjathkhan2004 I’m going to change out my inner/outer tie rods to see if that helps . My brakes and rotors are in good conditions. I really appreciate you replying man . Thanks
I have used that method for years but when I need to see inner or outer and I'm by myself I just remove the wheel. Then I can see everything. You just have to work the disc heavier as you don't have the leverage of the tire.
Oh yeah! One final final question. On my '01 Ford Explorer Sport, when I get to a hundred miles a hour, the RPM's drop madly enough for me to not be able to surpass anything over a hundred miles an hour. The tachometer isn't even close to tacking out when it happens. I don't know what it's called, or if it's actually a mechanical or an electrical component controlling this. But I know it's got to be a limiter, governor, or restrictor plate, or something similar that is causing this. So my final final question is really two. What is it that is causing it. And how do I take it, or turn it off?
Thank You. that video can only be just slightly better timed, I've been and still am going through trying to diagnose this noise that is I'm hearing up in the front right of my wife's '99 Toyota Corolla. I do have a question about the wheel bearings in that same wheel. I know you don't really mess with Toyota's per se (or if you have a video detailing diagnosing wheel bearings), but what should I be looking for? As far as diagnosing a bad wheel bearing possibly. If I do indeed find out that it's NOT the upper, or lower ball joint, or the inner, or outer tie rod. And one final question. In my '01 Ford Explorer Sport 2-door 2WD, Automatic 4.0L SOHC w/o FLEX fuel, and also my wife's '99 Toyota Corolla CE, 1.8L, within an almost identical range of speed have mild-to-bad shake/vibration coming most recognizably from the steering wheel. But also enough to be detectable from the front end in general as well. It happens with both roughly in the range of 60 through 70, maybe even up far as 75-80 miles an hour. on the Toyota, the front rotors and pads have been replaced less than 6 months ago (#Not so with the Explorer. When any of the brake components were last replaced is unknown.) But the Corolla also has a pretty strong pull to the right which is the same right that I'm hearing the noise from having the issue. Allegedly he 2 front wheels have been balanced within the past month or two. what are likely to be the causes of these sentence I have just stated? Where the most likely causes for the behavior I just illustrated, that both vehicles would be susceptible to?
+David Hannigan Jr. (Deputy Dave) When inspecting the wheel bearing check for looseness the same way as I show for the ball joint inspection. The way we inspect them is on a lift and drive the car to speed. If you inspect the front end and everything seems tight you simply have a dynamic tire imbalance causing all of this.
My wheels will move side to side like that even more, but not at the ball joints. Seems to move from steering arms if there is such a thing. I can't see where it's moving. 2003 Honda Accord 2dr coupe.
damn excellent video bro. a lady friend of many recently bought this 01 ford escort auto 2.0 zetec and there is a rotational noise on front passenger side whenever going over 20mph, i was thinking the wheel bearing but checking it at 6 and 12 shows no looseness at all. Could it still be the bearing that is just worn on one spot and seems solid while stationary but it manifest its noise when under load and moving or what could it be?
i think i know the logical answer, but just in case.... if you test something and it seems faulty, but there are TWO of them, is seems a logical and good idea to replace them both. or is that over kill? and WHY do these 'wear out'? type of driver? type of road? towing? obviously age, but what other considerations make it 'at risk'?
I got? I got 2010 mkx Lincoln and it steers easy left and hard to the right I replaced pump and all lines still does it I olso replace driver ball joint
I had my front struts replaced on my 2007 Expedition EL a few weeks ago. They replaced with KYB. When I got it back there seems to be a clunk now over bumps. Took it back and they tried to tell me the inner tie rods are bad now. I took it to some speed bumps and when I roll over the speed bumps it seems the clunk happens when the suspension rebounds, not on compression stroke. This is not tie rod ends, right? What should I look for? Thanks!
Brian on my 2004 f150 4x4 I jack the front up and shake it 3 and 9 o'clock the steering column rocks back in forth, is this normal and should you leave one wheel on the ground?? Thanks bro, great video.
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Every time I'm working on something brother, I always find your videos and they help many times.
You're the best brother, keep up the good honorable work.
I was thinking I’d be replacing ball joints but it is apparent I need to do a tie rod end. Great video! Keep up the great work!!
I really like your videos. I am a technician at a small shop, and that's how we check for ball joint and tierod play. I like using my pry bar under the tire also. I can feel any give at all through the bar. Great videos!
+Bryan Davis I do the same on the bigger trucks works remarkably well.
Thanks to this and another site gave me the opportunity to check the front end on a left dragging Australian Ford Falcon Sedan . I will be replacing balljoints first then all front bushes . Then I might venture to the back after a skilled mechanic has checked it out. Thanks
#1 Ford Guy on RUclips!! Thank you bro for everything!! 💯👍
Boy! For a moment it looked like a wheel bearing!!! But your videos are fantastic!! Thanks so much for the education!!
You did a good job showing the components, thanks.
Riding in here six years after you made this on a recommendation from my little brother, and boy howdy am I glad. Thank you.
This video is absolutely well explained. Thank you. I'm an avid subscriber here.
Awesome video, helped me diagnosed my tie rod problem on my Kia Sorento UM.
Bro, that was a good demonstration. Now I know how to check it on my car. Gracias!
Good video! I had a hub/bearing fail on my '03 Ranger 4x4 a few weeks ago, only 67k miles. I had put all 4 ball joints on it last year and the tie rods are fine....but after hearing the destructive noise it made and making it home I jacked it up and you could shift the tire/wheel around almost as much as the truck you're using in this video. Scary! Ordered new Timken/Ford units, installed, and fine now. That hub was in really bad shape. There was at least 4-5 of the roller bearings inside that were just gone, probably in chunks and pieces inside....
Thank you very much for posting this. Extremely informative and well explained.
Clear, detailed and filmed well. Thanks!
Definitely the ASE certified method to inspect those suspension components.
Dude. Nice instructional videos. Very articulate, to the point and NO STUPID MUSIC!! LOL Thanks.
+FUGYOO Yeah I don't like the flare and music some of these guys are using now to spice up their videos. I am just going to concentrate on being professional and work on adding a bit of personality.
Your skills on you vehicles are personality. Thanks again. Any vids on an F150, 1997 water pump replacement?
no video son that but if you have a modular engine they are ultra easy.
I don't know what a modular engine is. But it is a 4.2 liter. I snapped a bolt off trying to remove the water pump. Fgn factory locktite.
Thanks for your insight on this matter, I had a repetitive rumble noise. Now I know why, the upper and lower ball joints are bad, both left and right sides are done @120k 06 F150 4.2 XLT
I have used A pry bar to check the lower ball joints by lifting the tires and the 6&12 to check upper ball joints,
Brought a Grand Marquis to a FORD dealer for an alignment and tires. Before I went I checked out the front like you did, replaced a bad idler arm. Everything seemed tight. I watched the tech do the inspection, he used a long crowbar, came back with bad outers and pitman arm. Quoted me 400. I declined the repair, on the way home bought the Moog parts with my discounts though. I did find some play with a crowbar on those parts. The tierods seemed a tad bit loose(I did move/rotate them by hand) but otherwise the front end was solid. Everything was corroded to the sleeve and I ended up replacing the parts anyway. I'm surprised though a dealer would suggest those repairs and test the front end using a crowbar. Seems the parts had some kind of spring in them and the ball socket is starting to wear.
+alb12345672 Another way I did not show for the larger trucks is to use a prybar under the wheel to check for socket wear. We use that method mainly on the superduty trucks.
+FordTechMakuloco He used the prybar against the LCA(not the wheel) and the sleeve to check the tie rods. They had up and down spring loaded play, but otherwise tight. The FSM also specifies tie rod ball joints also need to be tested for torque to move and rotate the stud. Some of my joints failed those tests for minimum effort. I guess that is for hard to track down steering issues.
The pitman arm actually could fail for more than .1" vertical movement with clamp or prybar according the FSM.
Tomorrow I go back for an alignment, should be quick with the new sleeves.
Well done. You just helped me figure out what's causing the shimmying in my car's front wheels.
Could be wheel bearings as well
i have a mild random clunking at low speed. I will perform this check to see. I had a worst Clunk at all speeds and it was a worn out strut wobbling. I used your Strut video to replace those. I think i have something else starting to wear and this will help isolate it. Thanks.
It looked like the hub and bearing was slightly moving in this video as well. A little more then the tie rod end itself.
Thanks for the great video but the way you were going at the 9:00 and 3:00 position it look like from the inside that the wheel bearing was bad I didn't see too much of the outer tie rod move and it looked like the whole wheel was all out of whack I don't know that's the way I saw the video but thank again for the video
I think I saw what you saw, at the 2:50 mark, what I also would think may be a bad bearing. I see what I think may be excessive play in the CV joint boot and wheel bearing area in his video when he was showing the outer tie rod. I'm helping with a neighbor's 2005 f150 with similar movement after replacing bad inner and outer tie rods, the ball joints check out were replaced a few years ago, and check out as good, but there is still excessive slop when shaking neighbor's tire, and this video is the best example of what I see on his truck. I've been through a few you tubes tonight and would be very grateful for further explanation.
Yes you can check the wheel bearing like that too the 12 and 6 but most importantly for the wheel bearing spin the wheel of really fast so you'll hear a humming sound
Its amazing from my experience with 3 like model vehicles with grease zerks, how much longer front end components last from just one greasing per year. I've seen more than triple the life out of these parts when greased vs not greased. Its too bad so many cars don't have these any more, but zerks do sell fewer parts.
All greased parts used to have grease fittings. Money making scam across the board. Planned obsolescence and work for mechanics due to specialty tools and things backyard mechanics just cannot do without special tools and facilities. That is our society now. The big scam. My wife just today was not allowed to take her carry-on with her on the plane because she had a purse too. So she had to check in the carry-on for 25 dollars so she could keep her purse on her during the flight. Crap everywhere. Garbage really
@dafaqis-is I've seen people add geese fittings to "non maintenance parts".
Very good video. The simpler the better.
Yea I have to do these checks asap! I have 9-3 play, granted its minimal. But steering is very loose & ive got a rotational whine when turning or letting off the gas. I assumed it was wheel bearings, but now I think i need to check tie rod ends cause the boot is clearly leaking grease.
thanks for the video👍
I had vibrations at 60mph and above. I was about to go to the crooked shops and/or stealerships to have them troubleshoot. I watched your video and I found that my outer tie rod nut had backed off but the cotter key kept it from backing off completely so the tie rod end was just jiggling inside the socket.
The clunking noise was real audible when I jacked up that side and moved it with my hands at 3 and 9 o clock position but was not audible when on the highway.
There wasnt much gouging or cutting into the tie rod end insert so I just found another castle nut a tad bit taller to line up the cotter key hole when at full torque.
Imagine how much those crooked shops and stealerships would try to charge me if I wouldve brought it to them?!? "yes sir you need a new steering rack and it'll cost $1500 " 😫😫😫
"big time!" love it!
I just had my brother bounce on my front bumper and I put the palm of my hand on the joints. I felt it pop in and out as well heard a clunk on the upper ball joint. Is that a good method? 👍
Dude amazing explanation
Fantastic info.
I like the intro you got in this video
I like your screen name
Nice video. Very clear. Thank you.
Commenting for the RUclips algorithm
Do you change both outers/inners same time or only the bad ones
What an excellently done video!
I have a 2017 fusion titanium fwd. just replaced my tires and brakes. When I hit a bump I was drifting. When I hit water car would hydro bad. How would you rule out an electronic rack and pinion? With it being electronic would it throw a code? Is there an option to auto correct? Thanks in advance love the channel!
What I saw at the beginning of the video was loose lug nuts. Did you do that to simulate the problem?
So if you have a torsion bar type suspension you want to jack from the lower control arm? But if you have a strut type suspension you want to jack from a cross member? And only jack one wheel up at a time right?
I have a question: If there is no movement at 12 and 6, and no movement vertically using a pry bar under the tire, BUT there is movement when using the prybar between the knucke and ball joint (real close to the ball joint) does that mean they are good or bad?
Awesome video, thanks to your help you confer with my suspicions were on my truck. Keep up the great work/videos!
Excellent video, man. Thank you.
I had the same play left to right but then my buddy noticed the steering wheel moving. After one of us held the wheel there was no play at all. Could that still be tie rod issues or did the steering just not lock?
Thank you. Simple, but if you don’t know, you don’t know.
Did you put the jack on the lower control arm or somewhere else?
tHIS GUY IS GOOD!
Is the upper ball joint the same as the outer tie rod end?
I have a 2005 Ford Sport Trac do I have to load the lower control arm to check the tie rods and ball joints? Meaning do I have to put a floor jack or something under the lower control arm? Thank you everybody. I see you jacked the truck up under the LCA
Great video sir!! You definitely have a great channel!! Thank you!!💯👍
Nice instructional fella..
thanks for the video... helpful even though I don't have a ford
So jack it up by the control arm is the 1st thing to go then shake the wheel?
Awesome job brother FORD power
Thank you so much for this video. I have couple of questions and hope you would reply back. I've been asking this for sometimes now and would really appreciate you replying back. (1) My steering vibrates (and somtimes turns left or right) when I drive over gravels and potholes in SLOW SPEED. (2) The steering shakes when I go over 70mph and apply brake. Meanwhile, I recently noticed that the tie rod on the front right has play. So, I'm just wondering if the tie rod is the reason that my steering vibrates over gravels at SLOW SPEED and shakes rigorously when I apply brakes at HIGH SPEED. I've ordered a pair of disc rotors and tie rods, still I'm just curious if I've jumped the gun too quickly. Thank you so much for the help!!!
Hey I know this been over a yr ago but did you ever found out what was the problem ? I have the same problem on my car .
@@Danny-js2yc Yes. Changing the rotors and both the outer and inner tie rods solved the problem for me. I had the rotors skimmed before any of these issues, so I think that made the rotors too thin or out of shape. That's the reason for the steering vibration (and wandering)when applying the brake. The vibration over potholes and uneven roads in slow speed were caused by either the inner tie rods or outer tie rods or maybe both. So, that problem is solved after changing both the inner and outer tie rods. I hope you get the issue fixed as well.
@@amjathkhan2004 I’m going to change out my inner/outer tie rods to see if that helps . My brakes and rotors are in good conditions. I really appreciate you replying man . Thanks
Very nice demo. Thank you!
Very informative. Thank you
So it is have problem with tie rod and low and upper ball no problem?
Help 😢i have a 1982 4door cutlass supreme v6 3.8 have a loosen feeling at the 6oclock driver side .can't go 55 mph cause tire starts shaking
I have used that method for years but when I need to see inner or outer and I'm by myself I just remove the wheel. Then I can see everything. You just have to work the disc heavier as you don't have the leverage of the tire.
+chesh47 Yerah that's the part I don't like about pulling the tire off it makes it much harder to find the less obvious ones.
good detailed checking n explanation
What a great video!
Nice job
Great video thanks
i got lucky, my tie rod end was shot, ball joint was toast, wheel bearing was completely trashed, steering knuckle was trashed
thanks for the help . I can get started on my truck
Oh yeah! One final final question. On my '01 Ford Explorer Sport, when I get to a hundred miles a hour, the RPM's drop madly enough for me to not be able to surpass anything over a hundred miles an hour. The tachometer isn't even close to tacking out when it happens. I don't know what it's called, or if it's actually a mechanical or an electrical component controlling this. But I know it's got to be a limiter, governor, or restrictor plate, or something similar that is causing this. So my final final question is really two. What is it that is causing it. And how do I take it, or turn it off?
+David Hannigan Jr. (Deputy Dave) Sounds like the governer to me only way to get rid of it is with an aftermarket tune
+FordTechMakuloco, that's what I was thinking. Thanks again.
So, I'm confused. I have some movement, but no clicking, no tie rod movement. Not sure what I'm working with.
Thank You. that video can only be just slightly better timed, I've been and still am going through trying to diagnose this noise that is I'm hearing up in the front right of my wife's '99 Toyota Corolla. I do have a question about the wheel bearings in that same wheel. I know you don't really mess with Toyota's per se (or if you have a video detailing diagnosing wheel bearings), but what should I be looking for? As far as diagnosing a bad wheel bearing possibly. If I do indeed find out that it's NOT the upper, or lower ball joint, or the inner, or outer tie rod. And one final question. In my '01 Ford Explorer Sport 2-door 2WD, Automatic 4.0L SOHC w/o FLEX fuel, and also my wife's '99 Toyota Corolla CE, 1.8L, within an almost identical range of speed have mild-to-bad shake/vibration coming most recognizably from the steering wheel. But also enough to be detectable from the front end in general as well. It happens with both roughly in the range of 60 through 70, maybe even up far as 75-80 miles an hour. on the Toyota, the front rotors and pads have been replaced less than 6 months ago (#Not so with the Explorer. When any of the brake components were last replaced is unknown.) But the Corolla also has a pretty strong pull to the right which is the same right that I'm hearing the noise from having the issue. Allegedly he 2 front wheels have been balanced within the past month or two. what are likely to be the causes of these sentence I have just stated? Where the most likely causes for the behavior I just illustrated, that both vehicles would be susceptible to?
+David Hannigan Jr. (Deputy Dave) When inspecting the wheel bearing check for looseness the same way as I show for the ball joint inspection. The way we inspect them is on a lift and drive the car to speed. If you inspect the front end and everything seems tight you simply have a dynamic tire imbalance causing all of this.
+FordTechMakuloco Thank You
If you are testing , can you do this test with steering wheel turned?
Thank you so much. you made it so easy for checking. Excellent l.
My passenger side tire moves inward but can pull it back. No wobble just moves inward while lifted.
Thank you brother!
Do both wheels have to be off the ground at the same time? Or can you do one at a time?
One at a time works fine
Thanks man! ford strong 💪
My wheels will move side to side like that even more, but not at the ball joints. Seems to move from steering arms if there is such a thing. I can't see where it's moving. 2003 Honda Accord 2dr coupe.
Finally found a quality video about this. Thank you lol
damn excellent video bro. a lady friend of many recently bought this 01 ford escort auto 2.0 zetec and there is a rotational noise on front passenger side whenever going over 20mph, i was thinking the wheel bearing but checking it at 6 and 12 shows no looseness at all. Could it still be the bearing that is just worn on one spot and seems solid while stationary but it manifest its noise when under load and moving or what could it be?
+Ll Lock yes definitely most times there is no looseness but the ball bearings are pitted causing the noise.
great stuff!
Great informative video. Thank you
Thank you very helpfu
i think i know the logical answer, but just in case.... if you test something and it seems faulty, but there are TWO of them, is seems a logical and good idea to replace them both. or is that over kill? and WHY do these 'wear out'? type of driver? type of road? towing? obviously age, but what other considerations make it 'at risk'?
Thank you for being straight to the point.
Good video thanks mate
Excellent, well done video. Thanks!
Great vid
When doing this test...did you jack up the whole front end or one side at a time?? Thanks
If it was a wheel bearing, wouldn't it wiggle in any direction, regardless of my hands position?
0:50 where is the best place to put the jack stands to check wheel play? Or should I just jack the front up with the tires off the ground?
If you are just checking wheel bearing end play then you can jack it up at the regular jacking points for your vehicle specified in the owners manual.
Nice video
Is this the same procedure for the rear tire too?
Is there a video ANYWHERE on youtube where some actually grabs the tie rod and demonstrates how much or little it should move?
It should have no play.
@ which direction? Another video said it should move left and right parallel with the tire but not back and forth perpendicular to it?
I got? I got 2010 mkx Lincoln and it steers easy left and hard to the right I replaced pump and all lines still does it I olso replace driver ball joint
I had my front struts replaced on my 2007 Expedition EL a few weeks ago. They replaced with KYB. When I got it back there seems to be a clunk now over bumps. Took it back and they tried to tell me the inner tie rods are bad now. I took it to some speed bumps and when I roll over the speed bumps it seems the clunk happens when the suspension rebounds, not on compression stroke. This is not tie rod ends, right? What should I look for? Thanks!
Good shit Mate!
great videos how about upper ball joint?
3:22 in the video he mentions it
Brian on my 2004 f150 4x4 I jack the front up and shake it 3 and 9 o'clock the steering column rocks back in forth, is this normal and should you leave one wheel on the ground?? Thanks bro, great video.
Lock your steering wheel into pkace before doing the 3 and 6 o'clock test.
Really good tutorial thank you
really useful
Fantastic truly helpful.