Really liked your "fireside chat". More of a boot type chap myself, my favourite go to are old, all leather army boots, "Chrunchies" fantastically comfortable when broken in, should last a century or more. Old wax and finish scrubbed off with scotch green pad and thinners, then stained and polished dark brown. Demilitarized, they are fantastic in the country and sound wonderful.
@@TheChapsGuide I’d recommend having a look at Loake 1880 Export grade, I picked up a pair from their online factory shop half price, I would genuinely say they are on par with Crockett & Jones mainline, the quality was very impressive and the leather quality was superb.
Really well said on the watch scratch topic - they are meant to be worn and the 'lived' look of a watch can be appreciated if you pass down the timepiece through the generations.
I live on the Northamptonshire borders, i go to Crockett and Jones and Trickers factory shops, amazing quality at great prices, the best boots you can buy, especially at discounted prices. Loake, Cheaney and Grenson are okay but not in the same league in my opinion. My favourite boots, my Henry's and Crockett and Jones rough out suede boots both bought at factory shop
Go to Graham Browne City Tailors in London England. They can make a hand cut bespoke pattern suit or jacket for sometimes under £1,000 depending on your choice of fabric. The stitching will of course be done by machine at that price, but at least you’ll have your own individualised pattern and most of the benefits in fit of bespoke.
Great video Ash and as always good to hear your views. Perhaps a video or a question for the future. Smart watch wearing. I own an Omega Seamaster which I have had for over 10 years and wear daily. However, been debating an Apple Watch but just can’t bring myself to getting one and not wearing my chaps watch lol. What are your thoughts Sir ?
I finally went ahead with the famous black captoe oxford. I ordered a pair of AE Park Avenues off Ebay. I think they'll fill out the space beneath my wholecuts and my brown shoes.
The black cap toe is a shoe that will deliver when needed in most of life's major situations. A worthy investment for any chap. AE make a very solid and dependable shoe for the price - you have bought well sir.
If you want a bespoke suit for a reasonable price and you live in or near a large British city, here’s a tip. Go to the area most heavily populated by Asians and have a chat with the Indian and Pakistani tailors there, you’ll most likely find there are quite a few. Or ask any Asian friends you may have if they can recommend a tailor. You may be surprised just how affordable a bespoke suit can be.
Ash another interesting and wide ranging. Cheaney are good, but i find them in general a too narrow last C&J are my go to work shoes, with good customer care Tudor I sadly just cant get past the giant David Beckham on their stand, in my local AD. The vintage diver market is great at the moment from the main brands from ORIS, Omega and Longinees, and other less knowns, with great heritage from Doxa, Zodiac, Yema and Ollech & Wajs
God points, especially about Tudor's choice of Beckham as a brand ambassador. He does not conjure up thoughts of style and good taste in my mind either. I am very interested in Oris as a brand, my only reservation is their seeming love of large watches. I'm a bit more of a classic watch size guy, with 40mm as my preferred top-end.
@@TheChapsGuide The Oris 65 which is their retro diver comes in at 40mm or their is a 36mm version available Oris are just starting to role out their in house movements, starting with the Aquis, so might be worth waiting a little to see if this migrates out to the 65
C&J lasts are all different, same as other traditional makers. On top of that C&J , as an example do a "C" narrow width for men right up to a "G" wide fit in some lasts/models. They may even do a "H"... as Church's do. Cheaney stick an "X" after the last number to denote that it is a wider version of a last... possibly a "XX" too. If you fancy a shoe from one of these proper makers, try them on, it's worth a punt... and real shoes stretch to fit over time.
Hi ash, could I suggest or request a content? I would love to learn about leather qualities, its quite confusing and intimidating to hear that some Northhampton Shoes leathers are sourced from India (some say low quality) could you shed some light on this matter. Another thing that makes me confused, with many different brand in Northhampton and different price ranges, some think one is far better from the other (which is i think partly true) Could you emphasize please the worth of some underrated brands like barkers, or loakes (underestimated by some) Please highlight the worth of these shoes despite not being the top notch in the shoe race. I hope you see my point. (to give due regard for those underrated shoes) Million Thanks Ash!!
Thanks for the video, but I will have to disagree on your assessment of bespoke vs OTR and tayloring. The most tailored OTR suit will never be as well adjusted as a made to measure or bespoke suit. You should strive to get at least a made to measure or a bespoke suit, even if you can only get one or 2 suits vs multiple OTR suits and taylor them. You can start off with a charcoal gray and navy blue suit and you're covered with any situation with a white and light blue shirt.
Ash - question, what Rolex is next? You already have a Sub, a GMT and a Datejust. To me it feels like that's a complete collection. I think the Batman on a jubilee bracelet can replace your datejust, as your dress watch. It's the ultimate dress/sports watch combination, the blue and black on the jubilee
That video was a remarkable hit, considering its very simple content - I'm just brewing up to finally review the Rootbeer properly after about 4-months of wearing it almost constantly - coming fairly soon.
To be honest, I was thinking just the other day, 'Perhaps I should go on the list for a watch for the future' as these things can take years, but when I sat down and objectively thought about what I would want, I came up at a loss to choose one. My DJ36 is my classic dress watch and one I still wear very frequently, my Sub is my favourite summer watch, good for casual wear and yet still able to be pulled off with a blazer if need be. The Rootbeer is a joy to wear and look at. The warmth and character of the rose gold has totally won me over to the element of gold, over this increasing clamour for stainless steel. The Tudor is perhaps the ginger step-child of my watch collection. Its just a shade too big for my wrist and I dislike the non-adjustability of the bracelet. But its not worth selling on, as it will lose money and leave a bitter taste. At a push, if I absolutely had to pick another watch to add to my collection, I would be looking at a JLC Reverso, there is no current Rolex model I am drawn towards. The big hitters like the Daytona does nothing at all for me (the dial is so busy you can hardly read the time and the complication is obsolete) and the SS GMTs are nice, but who wants 2 watches the same in a collection. If money were no option, I would go full gold (GMT of Sub). I used to think gold was garish, but now it love the permanence of the metal. So, either I win the lotto, or Rolex or Tudor bring out a new watch.
What i can say is Burgol or Siegol are no cheap shoecare Products. 14€ for wax or pomade each 20€ for the conditioner. So you dont do harm to your shoes using Burgol. Its better than Kiwi or equal but Saphier is a step up.
I don’t want to be too contrarian, but the cheapest new Rolex is more than $5000. I’m wondering how you can tell yourself that you can afford a Rolex, but not a bespoke suit. I realize there is an investment perspective in that you could sell the watch for probably at least what you paid for it and the suit will lose value immediately, but it’s a different sort of investment, isn’t it? Just wondering your thought process there.
I do take your point, it does seem a little incongruous to decry the cost of a bespoke suit and then to invest a sizable wedge of cash in a watch, but my thinking goes like this. The watch is something I wear everyday, gives me joy to use and wear and is likely to continue to give service well beyond my mortal years. I never think of watches as investments (too many pitfalls and variables). A bespoke suit would have a relatively short life, especially if worn with any regularity, as well as not being an everyday item (in my lifestyle), so taken as a whole, the suit I deem to be an item of short term returns, against the watch, that will offer a return for decades and decades. If I had the wealth and the requirement for a daily wear suit, I would be standing outside Chittleborough & Morgan on Saville Row waiting for them to open tomorrow morning. But alas this is merely a pipe dream.
@@TheChapsGuide, good points. I think it all comes down to what works for us personally. As for me, no Rolex or bespoke suit, but I’d get the suit first.
One factor that I feel is important to mention is the resale value if one were to decide upon selling down the road. A bespoke suit is specific to an individual and likely to not fetch much value on the resale market in comparison to its original price tag. On the other hand, a Rolex watch for instance can be worn for years and resold at a marginal loss from its original price tag, or even more than the original price. A bespoke suit will not have the same resale value as a Rolex watch. A Rolex watch holds its value quite well and often even appreciates in value over time. Personally, I think it is remarkable to be able to buy a wardrobe item that you enjoy everyday and at the same time it has the potential to increase in value over time or at the very least hold a respectable value. I commend your thoughts on the matter Ash.
I think being 'chap' is a state of mind opposed to a number in your age. I know of many younger fellows, who are very chappish and many older fellows, who are as far from being 'chap' as its possible to be. So, yer - you can be a chap at any age!
@@TheChapsGuide I'll consider myself a "chap" then 😁 Thank you for your reply. It's very much appreciated and keep up the good work. I absolutely love your channel and enjoy when a new video lands as it's my evening viewing sorted and is a great way to relax after a long day at work.
With regard to hats, check out www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hat-life-yearbook-1946.86490/ the leading images contain helpful information for fitting people to hats, from a time when hats were very much more common than today. Its pukka gen thats worth studying. Most of all avoid the trap of getting a too small, or should I say well fitting hat, far better to get a half size or so over and pad the inner band, avoiding that pea on a drum impression.
You make an excellent point and also very useful in regards to the size of a hat. I am in the process of buying a new bowler hat and choosing an appropriate size was a challenge, particularly in this period of not being able to try on hats for size. Thank you.
Really liked your "fireside chat".
More of a boot type chap myself, my favourite go to are old, all leather army boots, "Chrunchies" fantastically comfortable when broken in, should last a century or more. Old wax and finish scrubbed off with scotch green pad and thinners, then stained and polished dark brown. Demilitarized, they are fantastic in the country and sound wonderful.
They sound uber comfortable and unique. Perfect style addition.
Great advice and suggestions. Very good conversation. Learn something new everyday.
Thank you.
Loake, cannot be beaten in terms of quality and price. I also like Barkers. Under £250, neither brand can be beaten.
Good point about Loakes - some are made in their old UK factory (👍) but some of the cheaper ones are made in India...
The 1880 range are definitely the ones to choose - excellent value for money.
@@TheChapsGuide I’d recommend having a look at Loake 1880 Export grade, I picked up a pair from their online factory shop half price, I would genuinely say they are on par with Crockett & Jones mainline, the quality was very impressive and the leather quality was superb.
I've heard that they are of exceptional equality, but I have yet to add a pair to the collection. Great to find a pair at half price - result!!
Really well said on the watch scratch topic - they are meant to be worn and the 'lived' look of a watch can be appreciated if you pass down the timepiece through the generations.
Wonderful video, mr. Ashley!
Thank you kindly!
I live on the Northamptonshire borders, i go to Crockett and Jones and Trickers factory shops, amazing quality at great prices, the best boots you can buy, especially at discounted prices. Loake, Cheaney and Grenson are okay but not in the same league in my opinion. My favourite boots, my Henry's and Crockett and Jones rough out suede boots both bought at factory shop
My favourite winter boots are Aigle wellingtons. The most comfortable I have ever worn.
Good wellingtons are worth their weight in gold!
Go to Graham Browne City Tailors in London England. They can make a hand cut bespoke pattern suit or jacket for sometimes under £1,000 depending on your choice of fabric. The stitching will of course be done by machine at that price, but at least you’ll have your own individualised pattern and most of the benefits in fit of bespoke.
Great advice - thanks for the tip
Great video Ash and as always good to hear your views.
Perhaps a video or a question for the future. Smart watch wearing. I own an Omega Seamaster which I have had for over 10 years and wear daily. However, been debating an Apple Watch but just can’t bring myself to getting one and not wearing my chaps watch lol. What are your thoughts Sir ?
Great question - I'll put that in my next Q & A video for sure sir!!
I finally went ahead with the famous black captoe oxford. I ordered a pair of AE Park Avenues off Ebay. I think they'll fill out the space beneath my wholecuts and my brown shoes.
The black cap toe is a shoe that will deliver when needed in most of life's major situations. A worthy investment for any chap. AE make a very solid and dependable shoe for the price - you have bought well sir.
If you want a bespoke suit for a reasonable price and you live in or near a large British city, here’s a tip. Go to the area most heavily populated by Asians and have a chat with the Indian and Pakistani tailors there, you’ll most likely find there are quite a few. Or ask any Asian friends you may have if they can recommend a tailor. You may be surprised just how affordable a bespoke suit can be.
Ash another interesting and wide ranging. Cheaney are good, but i find them in general a too narrow last C&J are my go to work shoes, with good customer care Tudor I sadly just cant get past the giant David Beckham on their stand, in my local AD. The vintage diver market is great at the moment from the main brands from ORIS, Omega and Longinees, and other less knowns, with great heritage from Doxa, Zodiac, Yema and Ollech & Wajs
God points, especially about Tudor's choice of Beckham as a brand ambassador. He does not conjure up thoughts of style and good taste in my mind either. I am very interested in Oris as a brand, my only reservation is their seeming love of large watches. I'm a bit more of a classic watch size guy, with 40mm as my preferred top-end.
@@TheChapsGuide The Oris 65 which is their retro diver comes in at 40mm or their is a 36mm version available Oris are just starting to role out their in house movements, starting with the Aquis, so might be worth waiting a little to see if this migrates out to the 65
Sage advice - thank you
C&J lasts are all different, same as other traditional makers. On top of that C&J , as an example do a "C" narrow width for men right up to a "G" wide fit in some lasts/models. They may even do a "H"... as Church's do. Cheaney stick an "X" after the last number to denote that it is a wider version of a last... possibly a "XX" too. If you fancy a shoe from one of these proper makers, try them on, it's worth a punt... and real shoes stretch to fit over time.
Have a pair of Grenson Archie triple welt brogues. Quality pair of shoes.
Do you have reviews about Barkers shoes?
Your contents are great thanks ash
Sorry, I have yet to own any Barkers shoes, but as they are a heritage, Northampton based shoe company, I'm sure that their kit is outstanding.
Well said Sir. Looking forward for your next vid.
Hi ash, could I suggest or request a content?
I would love to learn about leather qualities, its quite confusing and intimidating to hear that some Northhampton Shoes leathers are sourced from India (some say low quality) could you shed some light on this matter.
Another thing that makes me confused, with many different brand in Northhampton and different price ranges, some think one is far better from the other (which is i think partly true)
Could you emphasize please the worth of some underrated brands like barkers, or loakes (underestimated by some)
Please highlight the worth of these shoes despite not being the top notch in the shoe race.
I hope you see my point. (to give due regard for those underrated shoes)
Million Thanks Ash!!
Thanks for the video, but I will have to disagree on your assessment of bespoke vs OTR and tayloring. The most tailored OTR suit will never be as well adjusted as a made to measure or bespoke suit. You should strive to get at least a made to measure or a bespoke suit, even if you can only get one or 2 suits vs multiple OTR suits and taylor them. You can start off with a charcoal gray and navy blue suit and you're covered with any situation with a white and light blue shirt.
Ash - question, what Rolex is next? You already have a Sub, a GMT and a Datejust. To me it feels like that's a complete collection. I think the Batman on a jubilee bracelet can replace your datejust, as your dress watch. It's the ultimate dress/sports watch combination, the blue and black on the jubilee
Also i happen to notice your highest viewed content was the GMT Rootbeer Video. So lets have a 'State of the Collection' video
That video was a remarkable hit, considering its very simple content - I'm just brewing up to finally review the Rootbeer properly after about 4-months of wearing it almost constantly - coming fairly soon.
To be honest, I was thinking just the other day, 'Perhaps I should go on the list for a watch for the future' as these things can take years, but when I sat down and objectively thought about what I would want, I came up at a loss to choose one. My DJ36 is my classic dress watch and one I still wear very frequently, my Sub is my favourite summer watch, good for casual wear and yet still able to be pulled off with a blazer if need be. The Rootbeer is a joy to wear and look at. The warmth and character of the rose gold has totally won me over to the element of gold, over this increasing clamour for stainless steel. The Tudor is perhaps the ginger step-child of my watch collection. Its just a shade too big for my wrist and I dislike the non-adjustability of the bracelet. But its not worth selling on, as it will lose money and leave a bitter taste. At a push, if I absolutely had to pick another watch to add to my collection, I would be looking at a JLC Reverso, there is no current Rolex model I am drawn towards. The big hitters like the Daytona does nothing at all for me (the dial is so busy you can hardly read the time and the complication is obsolete) and the SS GMTs are nice, but who wants 2 watches the same in a collection. If money were no option, I would go full gold (GMT of Sub). I used to think gold was garish, but now it love the permanence of the metal. So, either I win the lotto, or Rolex or Tudor bring out a new watch.
What i can say is Burgol or Siegol are no cheap shoecare Products. 14€ for wax or pomade each 20€ for the conditioner. So you dont do harm to your shoes using Burgol. Its better than Kiwi or equal but Saphier is a step up.
Very good!
I don’t want to be too contrarian, but the cheapest new Rolex is more than $5000. I’m wondering how you can tell yourself that you can afford a Rolex, but not a bespoke suit. I realize there is an investment perspective in that you could sell the watch for probably at least what you paid for it and the suit will lose value immediately, but it’s a different sort of investment, isn’t it? Just wondering your thought process there.
I do take your point, it does seem a little incongruous to decry the cost of a bespoke suit and then to invest a sizable wedge of cash in a watch, but my thinking goes like this. The watch is something I wear everyday, gives me joy to use and wear and is likely to continue to give service well beyond my mortal years. I never think of watches as investments (too many pitfalls and variables). A bespoke suit would have a relatively short life, especially if worn with any regularity, as well as not being an everyday item (in my lifestyle), so taken as a whole, the suit I deem to be an item of short term returns, against the watch, that will offer a return for decades and decades.
If I had the wealth and the requirement for a daily wear suit, I would be standing outside Chittleborough & Morgan on Saville Row waiting for them to open tomorrow morning. But alas this is merely a pipe dream.
@@TheChapsGuide, good points. I think it all comes down to what works for us personally. As for me, no Rolex or bespoke suit, but I’d get the suit first.
@@tnmtemerity Very few people can tell the difference between a £400 suit, and a bespoke £2000 suit, if both tailored properly.
One factor that I feel is important to mention is the resale value if one were to decide upon selling down the road. A bespoke suit is specific to an individual and likely to not fetch much value on the resale market in comparison to its original price tag. On the other hand, a Rolex watch for instance can be worn for years and resold at a marginal loss from its original price tag, or even more than the original price. A bespoke suit will not have the same resale value as a Rolex watch. A Rolex watch holds its value quite well and often even appreciates in value over time. Personally, I think it is remarkable to be able to buy a wardrobe item that you enjoy everyday and at the same time it has the potential to increase in value over time or at the very least hold a respectable value. I commend your thoughts on the matter Ash.
A question. Is a "chap" a certain age gentleman or can you be a "chap" at any age?
I think being 'chap' is a state of mind opposed to a number in your age. I know of many younger fellows, who are very chappish and many older fellows, who are as far from being 'chap' as its possible to be. So, yer - you can be a chap at any age!
@@TheChapsGuide I'll consider myself a "chap" then 😁 Thank you for your reply. It's very much appreciated and keep up the good work. I absolutely love your channel and enjoy when a new video lands as it's my evening viewing sorted and is a great way to relax after a long day at work.
A chap is always a gentleman. Always firm, always resolute, always polite.
With regard to hats, check out www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/hat-life-yearbook-1946.86490/ the leading images contain helpful information for fitting people to hats, from a time when hats were very much more common than today. Its pukka gen thats worth studying. Most of all avoid the trap of getting a too small, or should I say well fitting hat, far better to get a half size or so over and pad the inner band, avoiding that pea on a drum impression.
You make an excellent point and also very useful in regards to the size of a hat. I am in the process of buying a new bowler hat and choosing an appropriate size was a challenge, particularly in this period of not being able to try on hats for size. Thank you.
I am afraid to say that Alfred Sargent has gone bust, according to Shoegazing.com.
That is a tragedy if true. Look out for bargains on ebay.