I recently came across your channel. Absolutely brilliant. Having also served in the military (Army) my kit was always on the ball. Had a few suits tailor made in Hong Kong, which sowed the seeds. Now I am a civilian and own approximately 20 + suits. 15 blazers etc and an ever increasing number of ties and pocket squares. A quality tie will bring up a lesser quality shirt. Always double cuff. Love wearing hats, bowlers, trilby and even my silk topper. Sadly for 22 years I used the wrong polish on my boots (kiwi) found Saphir polishes to be far superior quality and better for my collection of Northamptons finest. Haven't found anything that brings up the shine when bulling my toecaps like Saphir. Thanks for the great videos.
@@Olyfrun really good and best thing I did. I’m only adding to the wardrobe if it fits with everything else and is of quality tailoring. For example adding a tweed jacket etc. I have finally achieved a capsule wardrobe with many options.
We wear a uniform from Monday to Wednesday. Taking your advice on "the devil is in the details", I set myself apart by wearing a leather ID lanyard while everyone wears the standard nylon issue. And of course, my shoes. 😊
Very simple but helpful tips. I too believe the 60's men's clothing style is best and my personal favourite. It also helps one to conceptually live the persona of that time. For me it is simplicity, manners, family, decency, honesty...which I know still exist, but hard to recognize now a days, though.
Thank you. Always a pleasure listening to your great advice. The most difficult to find for myself is a fitting shirt. Best would be a tailor made one with straight, club or Winchester collar however a bit costly.
@@jonstern7511 It used to irritate me that shirts were really baggy in the body and had sleeve lengths more suited to a gibbon or orangutan. Charles Tyrwhitt shirts are exactly right for me. The sleeves are the perfect length and the body fits like a tailored shirt. I’m finished getting polyester shirts. It’s 100% cotton or linen from now on. The one I have on now is cotton and feels so soft and comfy. It’s blue with white stripes and I felt I looked great in it with my jeans in town this morning.
Thank you for yet another great video. Todays take home message: fit is King, iron your shirt yourself, look after and brush your clothes, the D is in the details. Confirms I'm on the right track. ;-) Please tell us more about your lapel pin.
"Connery', not a bad style inspirational icon to follow! Styled and tutored by Terence Young(director) and clothed by Anthony Sinclair of the former Conduit street . Still available today if you're lucky enough to live in London, look them up.
Always good advice as usual... I have been lucky to find a seamstress that can do adjustments to clothing to enhance the fit, it makes a big difference when buying off the peg...
You are fortunate - I near a town of 90,000 people, yet there is a dearth of tailors or seamstresses in the locality - it says a lot about the state of dress of the local population that they do not require a tailor with any regularity.
Generally by the pattern of visible wear on the garments - this can be most obviously seen as: fraying at collar and cuffs, loss of vibrancy in colour, thinness of the material, loss of shape and general condition. After a while, when you see and feel a garment that is almost played-out, you can tell.
Great video Ash. I smiled at the point where you discussed ironing and washing, following the labels for guidance, and then self-maintenance for sowing. Don't forget to link this into the shaving forums for some more followers.
Thanks for the feedback - many 'chaps' have little concept of how to look after their kit, which I feel is an integral part of being 'well turned out'.
Consider Fashion vs. Style. Consider how fashion can effect even the timeless/classic navy blazer: Wide lapels, narrow lapels. Notched lapels, peaked lapels. Center vent, double vent, NO vent. Two button, three button. Wide, padded shoulder, roped shoulder, natural shoulder. Three cuff buttons, four cuff buttons, working cuff buttons. --And, --as in your illustration ("dated" as mid/late 20-teens): too short, too tight! Thank you Ash, you ARE spot-on about the value of style and the transitory nature of fashion but, alas, a chap has to keep a fashion-eye open, even toward his navy blazer!
I just discovered your channel Ash and am heartily enjoying it. Your last piece of advice quite is thought provoking. I shall deliberately scrutinize their dress in future. I am in my fifties and have developed scoliosis (spinal curvature). My interest in style originates in trying to manage this change. I would be grateful if you could share any insights regarding dressing to cope with our ageing bodies? Many thanks.
Good day sir - you pose a good question and one which I am happy to offer my suggestions. For me, the path of action would be to choose garments that will accentuate the positives in your physique and strength your silhouette by attempting to broaden your shoulders and offer definition to your look. The obvious choice would be to opt for jackets, such as blazers, sports coats, etc. with some padding to the shoulders that will add shape to the torso. Additionally, I would avoid garments with raglan shoulders (on sweaters, cardigans, etc.), which will offer less definition and accentuate the effects of your condition. Above all, I would opt for clothing that frames the physique with strong lines that will draw the eye and offer a classic silhouette. Its all in the smoke and mirrors!! Hope this offered some assistance.
@The Chap's Guide Thank you for the considered response. Your solution appears likely to succeed and I shall take it to heart. I think that subconsciously I had come to a similar conclusion, though I could not articulate it. In addition I find that striving to improve my posture helps. Of course this is sound advice for everyone. I am extremely grateful that my condition is not worse. Next I shall search for a smart and functional walking stick befitting a Chap! Cheers Ash.
One way to reduce dry cleaning visits is to invest in a steamer. If all that is needed is freshening a suit or shirt a steamer is perfect and it will eliminate most odors. Steamers can not put a crease in your trousers or give a flat look to a badly wrinkled garment for that you still need your iron . Also many spots or stains can be removed with a cloth and cold water. There are also spot removers that can work quite well but be careful many will destroy wool, read and follow the directions.
Ok, I’m making a list 😂😂. As well as the steamer and a sleeve board for our ironing board, plus MTM Harris tweed 3 piece suit later in the year, I’m now feeling the desire for a grey suit. I really like the sharkskin pattern suit.
I would like your views on a particular subject . Like you , shoes are very important to me and a consider them key . Mirror shine versus subtle shine or "mate shine " what is your preference ? Mirror shine always or the right shine for the right for different occasions? Best regards
I would say horses for courses. I reserve the mirror shine for special occasions, or situations where I want to elicit a 'WOW' factor from the people that I meet. For normal day-to-day situations I usually go for a solid brushed polish effect, particularly in the winter months, where maintaining a decent mirror shine is a challenge in the UK.
As a chap (genlteman) I am starting my cuff-link collection, should I purchase proper french cuff shirts (white and blue) or combo i.e. french/barrel cuff shirts? Even if the shirts are pre-own - clean of course - as I always wash new and pre-owned cloths!
Black Captoe Oxford, Dark Brown Suede Chukka boot and if I could add the dark brown suede loafer i could survive on those styles in 95% of situations apart from a non athletic sneaker type of shoe or specialised shoes such as hiking boots, sandals etc.
I wish I could subscribe to such a few pairs of footwear - sadly my seeming addiction to buying shoes and boots is at a stage where I suspect my wife will stage an intervention soon. It's always a bad sign when a chap has more shoes then his lady wife - but I can usually smooth things over with an occasional 'shiny thing' that placates the boss.
The Chap's Guide yes being able to share the good things with people in our life is important. Although it’s different for a lot of menswear bloggers and vloggers who review often quite sizeable collections as part of business.
Why is today, after someone die, (like Queen Elizabeth) wrong to wear black tie (neck), waist coat, trousers, black capped polished Oxford shoes, white presidental folded pocket square and a pocket warch (I wear this outfit to church and most form events) as I dress like a gentleman daily?
Probably best to stay away from the current BumFreezer/NormanWisdom suit style that seems to be popular these days ? And the same can be said for the current vogue towards elongated shoes with square toes. For those lucky enough to live in This Sceptred Isle, its worth shopping in Piccadilly, the prices may seem eye watering at first, but as our 'Chap' points out, clobber that will remain in good standing a couple of decades after purchase is worth the outlay. Its also the case that many places such as Cordings will have salesmen competent enough to apply pins as a guide for pukka local tailors, who will transform off the peg into might be bespoke for really a modest extra outlay on the price. :)
Some great advice there for readers of all ages - I love the reference to Norman Wisdom suits - never thought of them in that context, but its a perfect analogy. I will laugh each time I see a young chap struggling to inhale in his hyper-tight suit in the future.
I've noticed that powerful personalities throughout the years, whether it be royalty, world leaders, high profile celebrities etc. don't wear distracting logos on their clothes, unless it's their own brand. Think about it...when was the last time you saw Donald Trump repping Tommy Hilfiger or Gucci?
I subscribe to the same view entirely - why would you wish for casual acquaintances to know where you purchase your wardrobe - smacks of a herd mentality of insecurity to me.
People who leave the tacked on sleeve labels intact 😆 I can’t stand logos. I do have some, but mainly things like my England shirt and shorts that I wear to loung around in the house. Logos smack of rank vulgarity and low self esteem as far as I’m concerned.
I would never cite Trump as someone fashionable. His suits are always baggy and ill-fitting and his excessive use of bronzer and hairspray are no one’s idea of fashionable.
Great video. One item: I have seen strong recommendations NOT to use the clothes rollers. Evidentially the leave bits of sticky plastic on the clothes which is not good for them. Stick to a classic clothes brush!
I know that this is not for everybody, but I really like double-breasted jackets. I think that they're very elegant looking and they're not really that common anymore. Wearing one really sets you apart from the crowd.
Couldn’t agree more on the high water break. SuitsSupply is a big on this one. No offense but the salespeople, while trying, we’re frankly dressed a bit clownish IMO. I choose not to shop there as a older fella. Peace.
2020 R.I.P. Mr. Connery you made it look so effortless....
I recently came across your channel. Absolutely brilliant. Having also served in the military (Army) my kit was always on the ball. Had a few suits tailor made in Hong Kong, which sowed the seeds. Now I am a civilian and own approximately 20 + suits. 15 blazers etc and an ever increasing number of ties and pocket squares. A quality tie will bring up a lesser quality shirt. Always double cuff. Love wearing hats, bowlers, trilby and even my silk topper. Sadly for 22 years I used the wrong polish on my boots (kiwi) found Saphir polishes to be far superior quality and better for my collection of Northamptons finest. Haven't found anything that brings up the shine when bulling my toecaps like Saphir. Thanks for the great videos.
I’m just under the process of getting rid of half if not 3/4 of my wardrobe. Just bought a blazer and centring everything round that. Thanks Ash
I have to check in and ask how it went!
@@Olyfrun really good and best thing I did. I’m only adding to the wardrobe if it fits with everything else and is of quality tailoring. For example adding a tweed jacket etc. I have finally achieved a capsule wardrobe with many options.
We wear a uniform from Monday to Wednesday. Taking your advice on "the devil is in the details", I set myself apart by wearing a leather ID lanyard while everyone wears the standard nylon issue.
And of course, my shoes. 😊
Very simple but helpful tips. I too believe the 60's men's clothing style is best and my personal favourite. It also helps one to conceptually live the persona of that time. For me it is simplicity, manners, family, decency, honesty...which I know still exist, but hard to recognize now a days, though.
the art of matching suits is something i mastered by being working class a couple of odd waist coats does wonders too
Thank you. Always a pleasure listening to your great advice. The most difficult to find for myself is a fitting shirt. Best would be a tailor made one with straight, club or Winchester collar however a bit costly.
Indeed, choosing a bespoke shirt is a big decision - a rather substantial investment for a single shirt - but we can all dream.
@@jonstern7511
It used to irritate me that shirts were really baggy in the body and had sleeve lengths more suited to a gibbon or orangutan. Charles Tyrwhitt shirts are exactly right for me. The sleeves are the perfect length and the body fits like a tailored shirt. I’m finished getting polyester shirts. It’s 100% cotton or linen from now on. The one I have on now is cotton and feels so soft and comfy. It’s blue with white stripes and I felt I looked great in it with my jeans in town this morning.
Your channel is very good
Thank you for yet another great video. Todays take home message: fit is King, iron your shirt yourself, look after and brush your clothes, the D is in the details.
Confirms I'm on the right track. ;-)
Please tell us more about your lapel pin.
Funny you should ask, but I have a whole video already filmed on lapel pins - should drop in about a week. Thanks for your feedback. Ash
"Connery', not a bad style inspirational icon to follow! Styled and tutored by Terence Young(director) and clothed by Anthony Sinclair of the former Conduit street . Still available today if you're lucky enough to live in London, look them up.
Always good advice as usual... I have been lucky to find a seamstress that can do adjustments to clothing to enhance the fit, it makes a big difference when buying off the peg...
You are fortunate - I near a town of 90,000 people, yet there is a dearth of tailors or seamstresses in the locality - it says a lot about the state of dress of the local population that they do not require a tailor with any regularity.
Always solid tips being offered. Good job Sir 👍
Thanks 👍
The cat is listening intently to the first tip.
guys clothes brush and a powerful garment steamer to keep the suits clean
12:25 How do you know how many "dry cleaning cycles" your clothes have?
I haven't heard of this before.
Generally by the pattern of visible wear on the garments - this can be most obviously seen as: fraying at collar and cuffs, loss of vibrancy in colour, thinness of the material, loss of shape and general condition. After a while, when you see and feel a garment that is almost played-out, you can tell.
My style icon is me. I am the best dressed fellow in the place. Always. ❤️🥂
Great video Ash. I smiled at the point where you discussed ironing and washing, following the labels for guidance, and then self-maintenance for sowing. Don't forget to link this into the shaving forums for some more followers.
Thanks for the feedback - many 'chaps' have little concept of how to look after their kit, which I feel is an integral part of being 'well turned out'.
You're the man!!! thanks for all your ideas.
I’m learning that my pants breaks are too long and I have no idea when to wear oxfords vs loafers vs monk straps.
Well done!!!!!!
Classic sound advice that will definitely stand the test of time
For me it's Cary Grant.
Another fine video nicely presented 👍
Cary Grant is the most mentioned style icon of chaps when the topic is discussed - effortly elegant. I feel a style icon video coming on.
Consider Fashion vs. Style. Consider how fashion can effect even the timeless/classic navy blazer: Wide lapels, narrow lapels. Notched lapels, peaked lapels. Center vent, double vent, NO vent. Two button, three button. Wide, padded shoulder, roped shoulder, natural shoulder. Three cuff buttons, four cuff buttons, working cuff buttons. --And, --as in your illustration ("dated" as mid/late 20-teens): too short, too tight! Thank you Ash, you ARE spot-on about the value of style and the transitory nature of fashion but, alas, a chap has to keep a fashion-eye open, even toward his navy blazer!
I just discovered your channel Ash and am heartily enjoying it.
Your last piece of advice quite is thought provoking. I shall deliberately scrutinize their dress in future.
I am in my fifties and have developed scoliosis (spinal curvature). My interest in style originates in trying to manage this change. I would be grateful if you could share any insights regarding dressing to cope with our ageing bodies?
Many thanks.
Good day sir - you pose a good question and one which I am happy to offer my suggestions. For me, the path of action would be to choose garments that will accentuate the positives in your physique and strength your silhouette by attempting to broaden your shoulders and offer definition to your look.
The obvious choice would be to opt for jackets, such as blazers, sports coats, etc. with some padding to the shoulders that will add shape to the torso. Additionally, I would avoid garments with raglan shoulders (on sweaters, cardigans, etc.), which will offer less definition and accentuate the effects of your condition.
Above all, I would opt for clothing that frames the physique with strong lines that will draw the eye and offer a classic silhouette. Its all in the smoke and mirrors!!
Hope this offered some assistance.
@The Chap's Guide Thank you for the considered response. Your solution appears likely to succeed and I shall take it to heart. I think that subconsciously I had come to a similar conclusion, though I could not articulate it. In addition I find that striving to improve my posture helps. Of course this is sound advice for everyone.
I am extremely grateful that my condition is not worse. Next I shall search for a smart and functional walking stick befitting a Chap! Cheers Ash.
One way to reduce dry cleaning visits is to invest in a steamer. If all that is needed is freshening a suit or shirt a steamer is perfect and it will eliminate most odors. Steamers can not put a crease in your trousers or give a flat look to a badly wrinkled garment for that you still need your iron . Also many spots or stains can be removed with a cloth and cold water. There are also spot removers that can work quite well but be careful many will destroy wool, read and follow the directions.
I do use a steamer and cam attest that it is a very useful and versatile tool for clothing maintenance.
Ok, I’m making a list 😂😂. As well as the steamer and a sleeve board for our ironing board, plus MTM Harris tweed 3 piece suit later in the year, I’m now feeling the desire for a grey suit. I really like the sharkskin pattern suit.
Do a Video on your Iorning Pressing Style?Or add a Video Link to a video that shows your Ironing style
6:47 is a example for wrong length, yes?
I would like your views on a particular subject . Like you , shoes are very important to me and a consider them key .
Mirror shine versus subtle shine or "mate shine " what is your preference ? Mirror shine always or the right shine for the right for different occasions?
Best regards
I would say horses for courses. I reserve the mirror shine for special occasions, or situations where I want to elicit a 'WOW' factor from the people that I meet. For normal day-to-day situations I usually go for a solid brushed polish effect, particularly in the winter months, where maintaining a decent mirror shine is a challenge in the UK.
Just came across your channel! Many thanks for the useful information!
Glad it was helpful!
As a chap (genlteman) I am starting my cuff-link collection, should I purchase proper french cuff shirts (white and blue) or combo i.e. french/barrel cuff shirts? Even if the shirts are pre-own - clean of course - as I always wash new and pre-owned cloths!
I like to have a few of each, although the barrel cuff is the more flexible choice.
Black Captoe Oxford, Dark Brown Suede Chukka boot and if I could add the dark brown suede loafer i could survive on those styles in 95% of situations apart from a non athletic sneaker type of shoe or specialised shoes such as hiking boots, sandals etc.
I wish I could subscribe to such a few pairs of footwear - sadly my seeming addiction to buying shoes and boots is at a stage where I suspect my wife will stage an intervention soon. It's always a bad sign when a chap has more shoes then his lady wife - but I can usually smooth things over with an occasional 'shiny thing' that placates the boss.
The Chap's Guide yes being able to share the good things with people in our life is important. Although it’s different for a lot of menswear bloggers and vloggers who review often quite sizeable collections as part of business.
Great video!
Why is today, after someone die, (like Queen Elizabeth) wrong to wear black tie (neck), waist coat, trousers, black capped polished Oxford shoes, white presidental folded pocket square and a pocket warch (I wear this outfit to church and most form events) as I dress like a gentleman daily?
Probably best to stay away from the current BumFreezer/NormanWisdom suit style that seems to be popular these days ? And the same can be said for the current vogue towards elongated shoes with square toes. For those lucky enough to live in This Sceptred Isle, its worth shopping in Piccadilly, the prices may seem eye watering at first, but as our 'Chap' points out, clobber that will remain in good standing a couple of decades after purchase is worth the outlay. Its also the case that many places such as Cordings will have salesmen competent enough to apply pins as a guide for pukka local tailors, who will transform off the peg into might be bespoke for really a modest extra outlay on the price. :)
Some great advice there for readers of all ages - I love the reference to Norman Wisdom suits - never thought of them in that context, but its a perfect analogy. I will laugh each time I see a young chap struggling to inhale in his hyper-tight suit in the future.
What is the name of the piece you have in your opening?
Its called 'Walk Through the Park' - here is the full track for your listening pleasure: ruclips.net/video/Qvu2YN32Q0o/видео.html
I've noticed that powerful personalities throughout the years, whether it be royalty, world leaders, high profile celebrities etc. don't wear distracting logos on their clothes, unless it's their own brand.
Think about it...when was the last time you saw Donald Trump repping Tommy Hilfiger or Gucci?
I subscribe to the same view entirely - why would you wish for casual acquaintances to know where you purchase your wardrobe - smacks of a herd mentality of insecurity to me.
People who leave the tacked on sleeve labels intact 😆 I can’t stand logos. I do have some, but mainly things like my England shirt and shorts that I wear to loung around in the house.
Logos smack of rank vulgarity and low self esteem as far as I’m concerned.
I would never cite Trump as someone fashionable. His suits are always baggy and ill-fitting and his excessive use of bronzer and hairspray are no one’s idea of fashionable.
My father taught me to iron a dress shirt at 10 years old! I can knock one out in about 7-8 mins! And men, purchase a good quality iron.
I see a lot of trousers breaking below the heel. 😳
Great video. One item: I have seen strong recommendations NOT to use the clothes rollers. Evidentially the leave bits of sticky plastic on the clothes which is not good for them. Stick to a classic clothes brush!
I know that this is not for everybody, but I really like double-breasted jackets. I think that they're very elegant looking and they're not really that common anymore. Wearing one really sets you apart from the crowd.
Is that your cat?
Her name is Maisie.
Couldn’t agree more on the high water break. SuitsSupply is a big on this one. No offense but the salespeople, while trying, we’re frankly dressed a bit clownish IMO. I choose not to shop there as a older fella.
Peace.
1😎