Should you be super high speed resin 3d printing? My results after a full year of "Vroom" testing!
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- Опубликовано: 17 дек 2021
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#Uncle Jessy's awesome video on high speed printing: • Vroom - Faster Resin 3... 
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This was the setting that pushed my prints over the edge. I get so much less failures and its faster too. Thank you for sharing this!
I'll have to try this one my Saturn and mars printers, I was holding off on speeding it up to much because I was worried excessive wear and tear. Thank you for the update!
Same! I was concerned that even with prints coming out if it burned out my $500 printer faster it was not worth it.
Thanks for this tip!
I've been wondering if I could speed up my prints.
I have been running "vroom" for the last year as well, and the only consistent difference I've seen is that supports are MORE attached to the model than with slow speeds. Maybe it has to do with pulling each layer straight off instead of slowly flexing it off - but regardless, it works and saves me TONS of time. Great explainer, and thank you 3dPrintingPro!
I was using 180mm/m until yesterday, tested 240 today and it works great, didn't noticed any difference in quality, thank you! :)
Went from 2:20 to 1:40 on my usual print
This would be 240 for your lift and retract speed? On both burn in and normal layers?
I don't know if it's my printer (Photon S) or the resin I use (3d Cure), but the amount of failed prints increased considerably. Squished limbs and detached parts are the most common. I think I'll go back to 180.
I've been running 180 on a Photon Mono and I've seen no ill effects. If I print a pre supported model, it's always works. Print something I did the supports on? ...I'm getting better :D This has been with several resins. Reprapper 205 gray, Siraya Tech fast gray and navy gray, some beige one I tried and can't remember the name of. Got some Epax hard gray in the mail and I don't expect any fails with that either. Keep up the vids man, you and Uncle Jessy are my go to guys for resin printing on YT.
does high speed work on bigger models? It looks great on miniatures, Thanks!
When using the vroom lift/retract speed settings, do you adjust the light off delay at all? Seems like you may still need some delay to allow the resin to settle after a lift, but I haven't tried it. Thanks again for all your helpful videos.
If you're printing something with a large solid cross section you will want a delay, but you should have one with slow speeds as well. For printing most minis there's no need to use the delay.
I have been using 0 light off for every print the last 4-5 months and haven't noticed any issues at all from it...
my standerd now on my elegoo mars with a
creality mag build plate is bottom lift speed 85 ..lifting speed 300 ..bottom Retract speed 300.. and Retract speed 300
haven had any problems and im using ifun Tough resin 3121.witch isnt the easyest to print with..
Great video Greg. You mention “your printers”. Can you tell me what printers you are running? Thanks
It's probably easier to ask what printers he doesn't have. I know he has Epax E10, Elegoo Mars/Saturn, Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K & 8K, and several others that I can't think of off hand.
Using Lychee and a Mono X ... how do I change the lift speed for just the burn in layers? I had a successful print at 240 without changing the lift speed for the burn in layers but if you are doing it out of precaution I figure I should do it just like you lol
do you use dual speed lift and retract or 240 across the board?
Does it work with the ameralabs tabletop resin, the really thick stuff?
What about machines like halot series from creality. They only have 1,2 or 3mm/sec which is 60,120 and 180 mm/min
Will give it a shot. I'm currently printing at 40mm/s and it's killing me
40mm/s ?????? thats 2400mm/minute!
I'm guessing you mean't 4mm/s aka 240mm/m lol
I run 200/170 on my saturn 2 it's the TSMC it works great but i do keep bottom layer at 100 / 75. how would you go around the 240 for a two stage motion control as we now all have this pretty much on our lychee resin settings! Ps resin I use is Sunlu grey abs and Jayo abs as both sunlu resin and nice and thin! Works great in the m5s but anyway back to 2 stage what would you recommend the 2 settings speed for the 240 high speed? Does l it push the resin out from a 240 from your rise high swooshing all the resin out with forced pressure going down?! You know the way with TSMC you can set it to come down fast so much then it takes over as the second distance to come down slower into the vat i keep my second setting on 100 mm/s going back in so from lift distance 4mm / 4mm i have the retract speed at 200mm/4mm then changes to 100mm/s on the next 2mm going into the resin! Also take note those who don't know this but the bottom layers retract speed in lychee are switched around in normal layers so setting 1 is setting 2 in normal layers so just remember this or you will be coming down slow then rapidly smashing into that resin!
The prints at the end look super detailed, are they 28mm or are they bigger? If they are 28mm how did you achieve this and on what machine? I have an anycubic s but my details are a lot softer at 28mm
Sonic Mini 4k, even better is the new Sonic Mini 8k though!
I've probably printed more models than just about anyone using Vroom settings for my miniatures business (approximately 20,000 now). There's no reason not to.
Over 30 printers there have been no issues (on both 6" printers and 8.9")
Save time. Print fast.
I’ve heard of “Vroom” but what are the latest best settings? I’m using Elegoo original, Mars 3, and Saturn.
@@DisgruntledPigumon Vroom has only ever meant high lift and retract speeds. It's just a silly name that was adopted. Everything else is the same for the resin you're using. Get your settings dialed in, crank up the lift and retract.
@@shawnmichaud4484 so just upping those 2 settings on lychee? I know it is fairly obvious but i jast started resin printing and i'm just being extra Carefull...
So Vroom settings wouldn't include bumping up the printer power? How high are you able to go without shortening the lifetime of the screen? I keep hearing that 60% should be the maximum you use, to make it last.
I stumbled across your channel while researching SLA resin cleaning tips and you seem to do a lot of SLA printing. I have an FDM print farm and have been doing FDM printing for many years but just got in to SLA. I was wondering if you could help me with a problem i'm having. I have a model I have designed which is intended to be filled with different color resins and then turned to make a pen body but it has a lot of internal cavities and i'm finding it impossible to get all of the uncured resin out. I have a wash and cure station and i'm using IPA and then rinsing with hot water but I still always end up with some leftovers. It seems like the IPA doesn't fully dissolve and remove the resin. Any tips you have would be great, I can also share the 3d model with you if you want to have a look. Maybe it would be worth doing a video that might help someone else in the future? Just a thought. Thanks.
Try cleaning with acetone, and make sure the chambers aren't self-contained, meaning there are holes by which you can clean those chambers. :)
Did you have to adjust the way (density and quantity) you do supports when doing vroom?
nope :)
What is this dependent on? Printing miniatures only? What about statues, busts and larger prints? It would be helpful if you clarified a little more. And I assume this excludes large format printers...
Works on all! :)
Hi! Newbie here, can someone please tell me what are the exact parameters I should change in lychee slicer? I'm afraid of dialing it wrong. Thanks!!!
Little late to the party, but quick question!
How are you getting such soft layers and edges? I've tried test after test with AA and no AA and I'm still seeing layer lines, even after painting. Is there a way to combat this?
I do AA with minimum settings and no grey blur. If I get up really close when painting with my magnifier I can still see lines, but if you print at .02mm layer height, prime well and sand any really big open areas a bit, you'll never see any lines on a painted print :)
@@3dprintingpro212 Thank you! Love the content and info. Keep up the great work!
Has anyone noticed a need to adjust lift height? I use Anycubic mono x and I use a higher lift height based on a previous video greg did for prints with larger surface area. Or is lift height at that speed negligible? Haven’t tried any of this yet but I’m really excited to try it.
I haven't had to adjust my lift heights, I usually use 1mm higher than what is recommended though :)
Not related to the lift speed but I've been trying to print a hollow sphere (not a perfect sphere, but a nearly spherical shape) and I get those little peel force "lines" nearly every time. Something about spherical shapes being hollow resin printers do NOT like.
Could suction from the air trapped inside be the culprit or is this just a hard limitation?
Are you using vent holes?
If you're printing a round item, try not to print it dead center of your plate, and then suction won't be an issue.
Pressure could be though. The resin being trapped in the item will try and flow out, this resin will still be flowing when the light comes on for the next layer. This moving resin doesn't cure right, and either leaves a rough surface on the print, or will cause the print to split. The easy fix is a vent hole, this allows the pressure to relieve itself. All hollow prints should have a hole for cleaning after anyways, try and put the hole as close to the plate as you can get it.
This same effect can happen on solid prints with a large cross section, for those instead of a vent you want to use a light off delay. This delay gives the resin time to settle before the next layer. Depending on your printer model(Chitu based printers work this way) LOD may be calculated to include your plate movement, so for example with the saturn if you set it to a time shorter then it takes your plate to lift and retract it does nothing.
It's creating a "cup" I'm making a video about that very shortly!
@@grazingshot Oh God bless you, you said a great thing that made my print result great. Thank you really dear friend😍😍😍😍
I don't feel comfortable messing with gcodes, will the max speed on my printer (Saturn) 180mm/min be vroomy enough?
Yes, I do it on my Saturn and it works great! :)
@@3dprintingpro212 cheers I'll be brave and give it a go. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
so 50 for bottom and 240 up and down
Failure rate on Saturn S is much higher with standard resin. On high viscosity Siraya Tech Blu - do not try at all, every print will fail. For such tough resins a slow printing is required.
It’s similar to FDM (which I’m much more experienced with) - yes, with good cooling and high flow hotend you can go to like 300 mm/s or say, 20-30 mm^3/s. With PETG, even more (if layers have time to cool down). For much stronger higher temp materials like CF Nylon 6 or Polycarbonate? Well, it’s not wise at all.
Doesn't sound right, lots of people are high sped printing on their Saturns with no issues...your exposure needs to be longer, but lift and retract speeds can be high :)
@@3dprintingpro212 exposure must be relatively short as I print flat on bed, functional parts - so trying to avoid elephant foots at all. Siraya Tech Blu is especially very high viscosity so there is no way of speed lifting. It's thick as a syrup. I don't mind, I rather wait 1 more hour than have failed print.
You know, I print functional parts, or attempt to (just starting) and I have no interest in printing toys and stuff without any purpose at all.
@@ZhuJo99 If you print flat on the bed, you can compensate for elephant's foot a few ways some slicers have a function for it), if notcheck my video on printing bases flat may help! :)
This guy
Hello and happy new year, is there a way to PM you?
yes you can hit me up on Facebook, or email me here :)
Mmm whats mfep? I had a photon mono and i just see normal Fep
I've been looking at trying zoom settings. Thanks for the video. After a 22 hour print for a 28mm scale base I can use something quicker 😅
The base is for the Water Genie by Mini Monster Mayhem.
Thanks for all your videos, they are all so interesting and full of information BUT can you PLEASE invest some money in a better microphone? The echoes are soooo enoying and your voice is so quiet :-(
Love your videos but I have a really hard time watching them because they are so quiet!
Yikes. I think you’ve been watching the youngsters screaming on RUclips too long.
I only read the first 5 words of the title before clicking.