In all my years, you can always rely on the plumber to hack framing in his way, instead of telling the project manager about the conflict when he lays out. They just spin up the hole hawg and go through whatever needs to be drilled. The plumber boss is not going to be happy with that huge back charge.
Homebuilder here. I make our plumbers “header them off.” That means they cut out the joist portion where the cord was hit/notched and perpendicularly add a joist on each side of the cut, on joist hangers. Creates a box and distributes the weight onto the uncut joists. When possible (and instead): we’ll scab the joist webbing with a 3/4 to 1.5” osb, plywood or lumber board, with glue and screws. This stiffens the joist portion that has been cut. It’s not proper code, but if the scab is long and well done then most inspectors won’t have an issue with it. I believe it’s stronger than originally this way, and also doesn’t distribute the weight onto the other joists. If in a crawlspace, you can add a post under the notched area and vertically distribute the weight onto a concrete block. We also prefer this method over the boxing out of a joist. If you count the cost of a block and post, it’s almost the same as the boxing hangers and joist materials.
It's so confusing to see them drill holes in the studs for electric and do all that work, just to skip random studs and have to pull the wire back through the fix it.
In all my years, you can always rely on the plumber to hack framing in his way, instead of telling the project manager about the conflict when he lays out. They just spin up the hole hawg and go through whatever needs to be drilled. The plumber boss is not going to be happy with that huge back charge.
So what needs to be done with the notched tgi joists to get them back to code?
Ahhh those are fine. Ask any engineer. If it’s real bad it needs to be replaced, which is awful.
Homebuilder here.
I make our plumbers “header them off.” That means they cut out the joist portion where the cord was hit/notched and perpendicularly add a joist on each side of the cut, on joist hangers. Creates a box and distributes the weight onto the uncut joists.
When possible (and instead): we’ll scab the joist webbing with a 3/4 to 1.5” osb, plywood or lumber board, with glue and screws. This stiffens the joist portion that has been cut. It’s not proper code, but if the scab is long and well done then most inspectors won’t have an issue with it. I believe it’s stronger than originally this way, and also doesn’t distribute the weight onto the other joists.
If in a crawlspace, you can add a post under the notched area and vertically distribute the weight onto a concrete block. We also prefer this method over the boxing out of a joist. If you count the cost of a block and post, it’s almost the same as the boxing hangers and joist materials.
1:26 what if it never rains during that inspection window? Could these issues persist through the time the walls are closed up?
It's so confusing to see them drill holes in the studs for electric and do all that work, just to skip random studs and have to pull the wire back through the fix it.
The saying is "Do it nice or do it twice"
Just irritates the crap out of me! Why can't contractors just perform quality work?
What a joke