Great tip! Also, remember that the pistons' travel might be limited because the brake lines were bled and had a little bit more fluid added since the last pad change. In that case, you'll need to carefully crack open the bleeding valve, making sure that you apply pressure to the piston while doing so. This will purge a small amount of fluid that'll allow you to push the pistons back further. Make sure to tighten the valve back as you're still applying pressure to ensure that no air gets in.
I was about to give up and go to the bike shop because I couldn't get the pistons to recede enough but your trick worked and was a lifesaver! Thank you!
Hi.. your technique ALMOST worked for me. But my caliper has 4 cylinder, and it was hard to push all 4 at the same time. So I tried using TAPERED WOOD SHIMS, and it worked very well. Plus, the wood is soft.
Initially I wanted to avoid tapered shims because I figured they tilt the pistons, but it just occurred to me that you can use TWO shims from opposite sides to counter that (which is maybe what you did?). Also I had no idea multiple pistons per side are even a thing, guess you learn something new every day 😌
Good tips! Sometimes I observed that one side pop inwards faster than another, so the better solution is use the thin thickness wrench and hold that faster one and push brake lever to let the stuck one out and lubricant it, rollback again, use tips as this video shown. Then try out few time to make sure both side of piston pop out evenly and smoothly. It would avoid further abnormal deceleration and annoying noise.
@Makstuff I didn't think of that, indeed its hard to apply even pressure over the piston surface using pliers. Is it something that happened to you or can happen easily?
@@MrToadization Not exactly during change of pads, but I destroyed a sealing in a similar way during reassembly, after I had disassembled the whole caliper to try and fix a sticky piston. Not only was it stuck and leaking then, I couldn't even get the piston back out, so I had to throw the whole caliper away. Even if during pad change this probably can't happen easily, symmetric load also doesn't scrape the piston edge along the cylinder walls, which certainly is a good thing to avoid.
You are a saviour, random german man.
WOOOOOOOOOO I JUST SPENT 3 HOURS ON ONE STUBBORN FUCK OF A PISTON AND THIS METHOD SOLVED IT IN 5 SECONDS! Literally dancing right now
Great tip! Also, remember that the pistons' travel might be limited because the brake lines were bled and had a little bit more fluid added since the last pad change. In that case, you'll need to carefully crack open the bleeding valve, making sure that you apply pressure to the piston while doing so. This will purge a small amount of fluid that'll allow you to push the pistons back further. Make sure to tighten the valve back as you're still applying pressure to ensure that no air gets in.
I was about to give up and go to the bike shop because I couldn't get the pistons to recede enough but your trick worked and was a lifesaver! Thank you!
Hi.. your technique ALMOST worked for me. But my caliper has 4 cylinder, and it was hard to push all 4 at the same time. So I tried using TAPERED WOOD SHIMS, and it worked very well. Plus, the wood is soft.
Initially I wanted to avoid tapered shims because I figured they tilt the pistons, but it just occurred to me that you can use TWO shims from opposite sides to counter that (which is maybe what you did?).
Also I had no idea multiple pistons per side are even a thing, guess you learn something new every day 😌
You sir, are fantastic. Thank you for sharing this perfect tip. 😊
Great like hack worked first time .Thank you
Thank you so much, this stuck piston was driving me crazy
Good tips! Sometimes I observed that one side pop inwards faster than another, so the better solution is use the thin thickness wrench and hold that faster one and push brake lever to let the stuck one out and lubricant it, rollback again, use tips as this video shown. Then try out few time to make sure both side of piston pop out evenly and smoothly. It would avoid further abnormal deceleration and annoying noise.
Thank you! You helped me out!
Amazing, great job!!!
Nice bro,!
Haha! Thank you very much, this did the trick.
Hey Man, thanks so much. This is a great tip. Much appreciated …
I bought brand new hydraulic brakes for my brothers bike, and the first thing that idiot does is remove the red thing and squeeze a lever
Quick and easy fix
Very helpful. Thanks!
Great that worked and saved me some time
Thank you very much kind sir. Would’ve wasted much more time if I didn’t find this when I dud
Thanks! Vy helpful!
Great tip
Use a tyre lever
I just wrap a piece of cloth around my pliers to avoid damaging the caliper
I was more concerned about damage to the sealing caused by unsymmetric load on the piston, if that makes sense.
@Makstuff I didn't think of that, indeed its hard to apply even pressure over the piston surface using pliers. Is it something that happened to you or can happen easily?
@@MrToadization Not exactly during change of pads, but I destroyed a sealing in a similar way during reassembly, after I had disassembled the whole caliper to try and fix a sticky piston. Not only was it stuck and leaking then, I couldn't even get the piston back out, so I had to throw the whole caliper away.
Even if during pad change this probably can't happen easily, symmetric load also doesn't scrape the piston edge along the cylinder walls, which certainly is a good thing to avoid.
Still not working for me 😢