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I was more concerned about damage to the sealing caused by unsymmetric load on the piston, if that makes sense.

@Makstuff I didn't think of that, indeed its hard to apply even pressure over the piston surface using pliers. Is it something that happened to you or can happen easily?

@@MrToadization Not exactly during change of pads, but I destroyed a sealing in a similar way during reassembly, after I had disassembled the whole caliper to try and fix a sticky piston. Not only was it stuck and leaking then, I couldn't even get the piston back out, so I had to throw the whole caliper away. Even if during pad change this probably can't happen easily, symmetric load also doesn't scrape the piston edge along the cylinder walls, which certainly is a good thing to avoid.

@@Tiedyemyguycustoms True

@@joepalladino4323 The "right" way, huh? What would that be exactly?

@@Makstuff following the instructions of the guides you read online.

@@joepalladino4323 Looking forward to your video then, let me know when it comes out.

@@TherealRetrad_ You need to add chlorinated hydrocarbons to the lava. These are denser than water and mix with paraffin. Not easy to find, I got tetrachloroethylene from the S3 chemical shop. If you are in the US maybe you can find non-flammable brakleen somewhere, but its not available in Europe.

@@Makstuff darn, i'm in the UK and on a budget, but thank you very much for the detailed reply, i'll look into it

@@PhilippD.The.Explorer No, food coloring is waterbased, for the lava you'll need solvent colors. Some candle dyes (those that don't contain pigment) work very well.

Care to elaborate a bit on how the lamp behaves now? Might very well be savable, but I'd need more details for that.

@@Makstuff There is not much to say; I used the same amount of brine to water ratio, all the wax did was melt and stay at the top of the bottle, it did not matter how much you add with fresh water, and subtract brine, it will always just stay of the top of the bottle, in fact when I was adding more brine, or fresh water, the wax had no reaction at all. All this method did was waste a week of my life. and make a mess of messuring spoons I used to add the brine. Consulsion. the lave lamp went in the bin.

@@leotiberius4403 Well, that's unlucky. But it was quite bold of you to just use my final salt ratio right off the bat, instead of adding it step by step. You say the lamp went "in the bin" so maybe it's too late, but what you could have tried: Let the lava harden, pour out the liquid and replace it with pure water without any salt. In the unlikely case that the lava would then still rise to the top, it would get more complicated. You could have either experiment with adding small amounts of alcohol to the water to decrease the density even further (never tried that, so not sure if it helps), or add something like tetrachloroethylene to the lava (works for sure, but these substances aren't easy to find, especially in Europe where there is no non-flammable Brakleen).

@@Makstuff To be fair, I did muliple methods, adding brine over time, to complete brine solultion off the bat, then subtractioning it with fresh water. I am simplifing everything;, I like to keep the replies brief. Did not matter how many times or in what manner I did this, it did not work.

@@leotiberius4403 Well thanks for the feedback anyway. Lava lamps are a pain in the ass to work with because you need to wait for ages for everything to warm up/cool down/mix/etc, so I definitely dont blame you for tossing the thing 😛

Dunno, I guess its always a balance thing between bottle size and bulb wattage. A large lamp with a weaker bulb will take long to heat up, but also will not overheat as easily as a small lamp with a strong bulb. I don't think the spring matters a lot for heat up time.

I have only worked with propylene glycol so far. The lamp takes maybe 2-3h to reach full flow, the timer is 8h in the video because I had been making small changes to the lamp and used the timer to keep track of when exactly I did which changes, just to not get myself confused.

@@Makstuff Cool, do you have a video of the propylene glycol lamp?

@@Makstuff The surface tension of propylene glycol (~35) is very close to paraffin wax (~30), you could use ethylene glycol (~45) , the reason they use water it because it has a very high surface tension (~70) , surface tension is a measurement of the affinity a liquid molecule has for itself, if there's a high surface tension difference the two liquids won't mix, if you add bipolar surfactants an emulsion will form (micelles) hence you will see cloudiness in the lamp.

​@@rollingmaster7708 Not sure what you are saying. Various surfactants are a standard ingredient in every single one of my 15 prototypes (and also in every online source I've found), and you will find that without it the lamp completely refuses to flow. The buoyancy forces in the lamp are so small that for a proper flow I need to LOWER the surface tension by a lot, not INCREASE it. Anyway, the only prototypes where I had issues with clouding were the benzyl alcohol lamps, but given that benzyl alcohol is partially soluble in water this was to be somewhat expected. If anything, I'd be interested in ethylene glycol for the higher VISCOSITY which I imagine could make for some interesting flow.

@@Makstuff 15 prototypes with water or other solvents?

No idea where I got that from, but thanks for pointing it out.

Two things you can try: 1) Make sure the lamp is vertical, and if it is, 2) try rotating the bottle relative to the base to maybe get a slightly different heat distribution.

www.amazon.de/dp/B072N3FMZY/ Happy now? 😛

Yes.

You mean the lava? It's not like candle wax, theres some other stuff in there so it's more like a paste at room temperature.

Glass containers are fine for sure, only with plastic I'd be a bit wary since components in the lava might attack it. But for a funnel I imagine plastic should be fine since the contact is so short. By the way, the containers I use are stainless steel, not aluminum.

No one said it was