Me looking at how colorful other TVs are in a video I'm watching on my own TV: "Oh man, the colors look so good on that TV, I wish my TV could make those colors."
This. If Caleb's overviews have taught me anything, it's that my midrange Sony can easily reproduce everything as well as the flagships can. This makes me very happy, because I didn't pay much for that unexpected feature set!
@@JopieHaargel When I commented that my X74L was out of the box far more eye candy, exciting, colourful and enjoyable to look at compared to my X95L where were you then? I didn't get any likes!
@@Badcompany2PS5 It posted a score below the X93L despite having the same dimming zones as the X95L. It's also $2,000 now for the 65 inch which is a high price for a mid-range model. More importantly it has as bad viewing angles as VA panel can possibly post and no premium anti-reflection coating. The viewing angles compete with the X90L which are its Achilles heel and it's such a cheaper alternative. The X95L was superior to the X93L (see the subtitle image on ratings between the 2). I expected the Bravia 7 to be as good as the X95L but sadly it's a brighter, more expensive X92L. It's surprising because the Bravia 7 is facing so much competition from the U8N and QM8 this year and it's not bringing much to the table other than brightness. It's extremely disappointing because the Bravia 9 got so many upgrades and the Bravia 7's most important upgrades were price, brightness and a model name change, two of which don't really benefit the consumer.
More panel information please! Even if it’s just a box on the side of the video that you don’t talk about very long, it’ll almost certainly provide information that is hard or even impossible for a consumer to get ourselves
Regarding breakers, a rough calculation for a 15 amp circuit is about 1300 watts continuous (80% of 15). Picking a random bright TV, the 85” Hisense UX, the consumption is 300w max an 71w continuous as per Rtings. I think there is a ways to go before modern tvs start popping breakers. My old Panasonic plasma tv used to double as a space heater, after all.
15-amp circuit gives you a peak of 1800w, and continuous draw is 1500w. Not sure where you're getting that 1300w continuous. Also for a 20-amp circuit it's 2400w peak and 1800w continuous.
@@randysalsman6992 when installing a continuous load such as a car charger, the standard is 80% of the breaker. A 60 amp circuit is required for a 48 amp charger. Take a look around at space heaters and microwaves, you won’t find that many that exceed 1300 watts since they are designed for 15 amp breakers. I also used 110 volts as the standard voltage.
@@randysalsman6992i think you missed the point of the comment. You won’t be seeing any TVs popping breakers. I was also speaking of electrical code that has the 80% rule for choosing breaker vs continuous power.
Please include the panel info in the videos with nit for nerds section! Would love to know more in depth info (panel type, bit type, etc...). Most of the time, this info is buried or not accurate online.
Absolutely, please let us know all the panel details as much as possible! Including Sony's LCD models difference between 65", 75" and 85" as it has been so with the X95K and X95L and quite possibly is again a different panel for the 85".
Yes, please and thank you, to more info on display panels! I'm looking for a large LCD TV and I'm okay with trading some native contrast for a wider viewing angle if only I could identify a TV with an IPS panel instead of VA, and there's only a scant few resources and reviews that mention the panel type.
I too had wondered why larger tvs cost proportionally so much higher than the smaller versions. The "mother glass" explanation helped me better understand the reasoning.
Another reason reason pricing isn't linear across TV sizes is because your chances of success cutting a consistent 82" panel are *exponentially* lower than a 77"... the probability scale isn't linear here. Cutting the panel is easy, getting finished pixels to work consistently across the cut is the real challenge. This gets much harder with larger sizes. Additionally, larger TV's require higher reinforcement. This does not follow the linear scale either. For example, a 75" TV weighs in at approximately 40-50% more than a 65" of the same model while being only a third larger in screen area. If you followed FMEA and tensile strength equations, there are formulas for those. Lets say a ruler 10 cm long has a bending strength of 10 Newtons and weighs 100 grams. A 20 cm ruler that's capable of withstanding the same tensile strength isn't going to weigh 200 grams- it's going to weigh 282.8 grams. This example illustrates the non-linear relationship between size and the required reinforcement for maintaining structural integrity. A real world use case scenario would be that if you had a ruler, saw it into two or three pieces, and you'd see how much more the smaller pieces resist bending, as opposed to the full ruler. There's also a lot more to this than what I can describe here
Hi caleb, in your testing of the lg g4, have you encountered any hdmi issue? Specifically in my case, when I have been watching any onboard streaming apps, and then changing to hdmi2 (doesn't seem to matter what source I have plugged in), the screen goes fuzzy/liney. It normally takes watching the apps for 10 mins or so for me to force it to happen again if anyone wants to test this. Unplugging the tv fixes the issue, but is obviously annoying. Im waiting for lg to get back to me about a fix. Thanks.
A typical AC unit in the window can draw up to 12 amps ( being an older unit ), as this is said, Plasma was the biggest draw next to projection CRT. LCD led and OLED really do not meet more than the 7amp mark. So, a brighter light source, like one in a 4k ust projector, would be more than any 80" set or lower. Tripping a breaker would include a high power audio system PLUS the set, and even then would probably not do more than dim the lights when the system cones on. I experience this when my home theater powers up ( 2 self powered subs, one Adcom gfa 5000 series 4 channel amp powering 2 passive sub speakers, Onkyo TX-NR 686 amp running 7.4.2, Vava 4k black projector, nVidia Shield Pro ). 30+ years of consumer electronics repair here.
I found it interesting that you reccomened two SONY 2023 models for a room with extensive daylight rather than the new Samsung with a special screen that defuses light reflections. I think I got that right?
Good point on contrast enhancer. I'm on Sony and watch lots of drawn contents - cartoons and animes. Vivid mode is the best for such content. So it depends on what you are watching.
@@tech4now_interesting, that model has HDR dimming issues in DV and maybe in other content but generally speaking all TVs have some HDR issues. Have you tried switching to SDR? I doubt you’ll lose any of the brightness and you won’t have to switch to Vivid which I personally have never touched since it’s a downgrade. Ratings has some solutions.
I don’t know about TVs but in checking their wattage use they were in the 100-200 watt range. I have a tv, a console, an AVR, a class a/b Amp, and a sub on the same breaker. I’ve never tripped it except when I was playing Dragon Age Inquisition on the PS4 without a sub and the AVR was getting pummeled by low frequency effects and the AVR went into protect mode. I think Oleds use more wattage (one type does and I forget which). My TV is a 55 inch LED. Think about PCs. How many PCs have a 1000 watt PSU and what do you use it for? It’s unlikely TVs have such mammoth power supplies. Think about AVRs, how many can handle 7*100 watts continuous? Only the best but Class A/B means a lot more than 700 Watts since they are inefficient. Subwoofers like SVS claim massive power numbers since low frequency take much more power to generate than high frequencies. I’ve had a movie theater for 20 years with 60,000 hours of use and the breaker has held up.
Would definitely like to know how panel type may affect the TV’s performance in a given comparison review. IE VA panel in a 65 U8k versus a ADS panel in a 75 U8k. Say against the TCL U8N for example
The problem with contrast enhancer, at least on Samsung, is that sometimes High provides the punchier picture and sometimes Low provides the punchier picture. So I find myself having to adjust it depending on the content. And the Samsung UI is not at all helpful for making on the fly image adjustments.
Good advice on which Sony TV to buy. I upgraded from a 13 year old Bravia to the x90L and it is such an insane upgrade at a fairly reasonable price. Adding 39" to the TV certainly helps too.
Your 13 yr old Bravia was made by -- SHARP Aquos in Japan . 💯 2010-2011 globally LED was contracted by SHARP whole sale . So u had sharp tv all this time that u didn’t know :)
I have a Samsung S 90 C 77 inch and I can’t imagine watching HDR content without contrast enhancers on. You wouldn’t even notice that it’s HDR without it. However, when people turn on contrast enhancer for SDR content, that’s when it makes the picture look awful.
I tried using it and yes it will make the picture brighter but at the same time it made it when there were bright highlights they wouldn't be as impactfull. So all the setting does is makes the differces between the dark and bright less dynamic and what I love the most when it comes to both my visial and audio experience is those dynamics. Not much worse then flat picture or sound. Now if when I use the contrast enhancer it did what the name intails like along with making your overall picture brighter (what's meant to be bright that is) and not raise the black at all but at the same time when those HDR highlights are there they are that much brighter, so if the HDR highlight was 3x the brightness of the rest of the brightess then now that your overall brightness is lets say now 50% with the contrast enhancers on then those HDR highlights need to also be 50% brighter then they were before contrast enhancers was turned on. If that's what it did I'd use it but it doesn't, on my Samsung s90c when I turn on contrast enhancer the overall brightness goes up along with the blacks might still be black but something about it don't look the same, looks digitally alteard and when watching HDR the overall brightness is raised like with SDR but the bright highlights will go down in brightness. So to me with contrast enhancer on HDR is no longer HDR, it is SDR+ and when contrast enhancer is on SDR the setting instead of being called contrast enhancer should be called contrast destroyer and SDR becomes SDR-.
sounds like samsung's settings are not set properly for contrast. Bummer if you have to change it. There are only 1-2 changes you need to make for perfection - the color temp and leaving on the light sensor without other eco settings. These are the only 2 changes you should need to make to get the best image out of your TV. After that, any setting you change should not make the TV look better, just different, with the majority making it look worse. A well-optimized TV should be perfect in all content.
You have to consider not only is it power consumption limited at some point, especially for larger tv's, but there is also the power efficiency standards imposed by many locals, It is already the case where a tv is hindered to pass say an EU power requirement or get a certain energy star rating, and settings or region need to be altered to get the most out of the tv possible. You also have to factor in other aspects of the set, are you using the built in speakers, how good are they, how much processing are you letting the TV do for upscaling or contrast enhancement, or backlight control. Lots of things in the TV need power, not just the pixel brightness. Then again you have giant wall sized tv's full of Micro or mini led's and they don't often talk about needing any special power circuits to install those residentially so....can't really say
Excellent video. I would love to see a rating of Chroma Sub-sampling and Video Bit Depth as well in your reviews if possible. I need the option of using a TV occasionally as a computer screen but have noticed that most TV screens are not able to produce text resolution clearly because they are not 4:4:4 chroma. Thanks!
Regarding contrast booster, keeping it off or low in my S95C best works for me. medium can be barely tolerable and high is a big no. You'll lose shadow details and picture would look patchy, flat, very unnatural with lot of noise, particularly when it's human faces on screen.
9:55 the Sony X90L is actually a subpar recommendation for that person. They have a lot of ambient light and huge windows so therefore really need the better reflection handling of the X95L if that's to expensive they should consider the X93L (=X95K) but they should most definitely avoid the X90L and Bravia 7 for that matter
I believe there were some plasma TV’s back in the day that use 220V outlets. Those would trip breakers if your service wasn’t set up for it? Like a clothes dryer or air conditioner would if you had too many things turned on.
I don’t know about all TVs but in checking their wattage use of 65 inch TVs they were in the 100-200 watt range. Obviously size will affect it. I just checked Samsung and according to their specs, the 85 inch Qn85C has a 335 watt max power with an average of 206 watts while the QN90C has a 375 watt max with the same average. The numbers for the 65 inc are 245Watts max and 137 average. OLEDs use a bit more I think. So can you trip a 1800 watt (15A) circuit with it? No. Can you trip a 2400 watt (20A) circuit with it. Definitely not as you can only draw 350 Watts with a 85 inch and even 98 inch TVs top at under 500 watts. I have a tv, a console, an AVR, a class a/b Amp, and a sub on the same breaker. I’ve never tripped it except when I was playing Dragon Age Inquisition on the PS4 without a sub and the single AVR was getting pummeled by low frequency effects and the AVR went into protect mode but the sound was insane almost like a deep bass sweep sound and there were dozens in a battle hitting the AVR - you'll never have that happen except in that game and the AVR did its job and went into protect mode. My TV is a 55 inch LED. Think about PCs. How many PCs have a 1000 watt PSU and what do you use it for? It’s unlikely TVs have such mammoth power supplies unless you have the best GPU. PS5 and Xbox Series X can use up to 250 watts. It's sound that really uses a lot of power, not visuals. Think about AVRs, how many can handle 7*100 watts continuous? Only the best models can sustain 700 watts but Class A/B means a lot more than 700 Watts since they are inefficient. Subwoofers like SVS claim massive power numbers since low frequencies take much more power to generate than high frequencies. I’ve had a movie theater for 20 years with 60,000 hours of use and the breaker has held up and it's a 15A - I wish I'd been able to put a 20A (or two) when I was building the house and had known about breakers (I just learned about power demands and overloading a breaker much later) but in all honesty I've never needed them.
Voltage x amps = watts. 120 volts x 15 amps is equal to a 1800 watt circuit. Now depending on how many other devices are in that circuit could limit the total amount of power available to the TV and how much it needs achieve peak brightness. However 1800 watts is a lot of power and i doubt you would ever run out of juice causing a TV to be limited in its capabilities.
More and more I’m wondering if the newest high end televisions are worth it being that more sporting events are moving to streaming. it’s been my experience that live streamed sports on Netflix and Amazon just don’t match the quality I get on live television using sat.
Hi I'm just wondering about the IMAX enhanced picture mode on Sony TVs does it requires the IMAX content or with it being a picture mode now on my new x95L does it apply processing to any content. On my x95g it was it's own version of HDR.
after many years of having a Bravia LCD(when it was the thing next to plasma tvs). It was time to upgrade. So did my research/homework on tvs and went with another Bravia. I was going to hit up Samsung, but Sony had a better stand width that fit my current tv stand. As where Samsung stand was to wide. Even good tv stands these days are not cheap, but then again you don't want your nice new tv on a cheap stand. I'm very happy with my new Bravia LED and it's direct/back lit and the picture was way better in store compared to Samsung edge lit.
I have a Samsung UA65JS9000 curved TV and it reflects everything the ceiling light are seam clearly on the screen and has been annoying for years now. What is the best tv to get to eliminate reflection
One of the primary reasons why products tend to get exponentially more expensive as you move up the product chain is economies of scale. Once you get to 83 inches and above, you are selling so few of them compared to say 65 inches because A: most people have standard sized living rooms and don't want a giant beheamoth that would give them neck pain when sitting close to it and B: Manufacturing 83 inch TV's is a lot more expensive than manufacturing 65 inch TV's which means fewer people can afford it. When you are moving so few units because the demand is very low, your price must go up to cover the large fixed cost per unit eating away at your profit margin. Simple economics.
Since i repair TV's for a living, here is my take on the amount of power that ultra bright panels requre. The figures quoted are often the peak brigtness, the average brightness is way less so to ensure that the power supply can cope with the demands of peak brightness which is only required for a few seconds a designed in reserve is there. Put it this way, the size and rating of the cable that goes from your TV to the wall socket gives you a clue, It is way less than you will find on appliances that have a high current requirement such as a heater or kettle. One point is that Oled panels are way more power hungry than Led and hence cost more to run. Just compare the energy ratings for them, then that large new Oled TV may not be the best choice if you are paying a high price for electricity.
Can’t wait for the new Panasonic they are beasts,They also provide better dolby vision support and settings on top of processing,It’s a shame the US don’t have them,They could really dominate sony like they have done for picture quality for years.
Panasonic's make the best TV's. Before they left the west they made the best TV's and when it came to the plasma TV that's where Panasonic really shined, I wanted one so bad and when I finally had the chance it was I think 2012-2013, all I could find was a little 50 inch and also I think it was their lowest end plasma as well. Like I wanted to cry, just like 2 years before that I was in the store looking at thier 63 inch V-series, which was second only to their top line z-series, but that was lot more and I never seen them and the one I was drooling over was about $2300 and wanted to get when I had the money or that years equivalent. Though when the time came they were all but gone, hence just the 50 inch loser series, I ended up getting instead a Samsung 60 inch Plasma, it was $1200 and cheaper then the 50 inch Pany and it was a smart TV where the Pany was not. I still almost got the Panasonic because how much I always wanted one, but my girlfriend talked me out of it. It was good she did because I would have been pissed at myself later but still to today I would love to have a top end Panasonic, never had a Pany. I still find myself looking at those old V-series on e-bay. lol
@@randysalsman6992 Nice story man,It is unfortunate they left the US market,And yes,They produce the best undisputed kings of TVs still,Their OLED line up is THE best with supreme picture quality and intricate processing,Super clever tech behind them hence the premiumness of them…They also now have a first new Full Array and Mini LED with the new processor used in their OLED line up which are pretty much the best of the best,Even their full array will beat a lot of mini leds and don’t get me started on their amazing gaming setting and video settings inside of sub menus.
My '18 tcl 65r615 is just starting it's black screen if death phase. With my pc input it's started freaking out when hdr activates it flickers off and on until it's shut off. Then all video inputs stopped working and needed a power reset. I'm hoping it makes it through the summer.
Dor the longest time i avoidedvivid mode as every review said todo so. Then one day i turned it on for my ps5 and accuracy be dammed, i just preferred the look
When I got my very first 55 inch 4k samsung curve tv from 2014. I had to call samsung customer service to confirm if the panel is 8 bit or 10 bit. The samsung customer service told me that the 2014 samsung tv that I was using was only an 8 bit panel back in 2014. I even had to ask the same customer service rep about the newer 2017 samsung 4k qled curve tv if the panel is 8 bit or 10 bit and he told me that the 2017 samsung curve qled 4k tv is 10 bit panel since I mentioned the model number of the tv since the samsung tv is the samsung q7c since it's the model that I'm going to buy. I ended up upgrading to the newer 65 inch 2017 samsung 4k qled curve tv since it was a huge upgrade from 2014 to 2017 model. My 2017 samsung tv has no ads on it but the 2014 samsung tv came with the gamefly built into the TV with older versions of tizen.
i have a Sony Bravia X90CH and need to buy a tv for another room, I would like the new to replace my main and move this one to another room. so... what would be a good sony to replace my X90CH Oh, and its a 65 I don't want OLED because of possible burn in...
Me looking at how colorful other TVs are in a video I'm watching on my own TV: "Oh man, the colors look so good on that TV, I wish my TV could make those colors."
This. If Caleb's overviews have taught me anything, it's that my midrange Sony can easily reproduce everything as well as the flagships can. This makes me very happy, because I didn't pay much for that unexpected feature set!
@@JopieHaargel When I commented that my X74L was out of the box far more eye candy, exciting, colourful and enjoyable to look at compared to my X95L where were you then? I didn't get any likes!
Yes, letting us know if a panel is native 10-bit on reviews would be helpful. Thanks!
Panel info in nit nerds would be great!
Yes more info on panel used
Yes to the panel info! TIA.
Welcome back from your vacation Caleb. Is there any news on the reviews for the Bravia 7 and/or Bravia 9?
Just waiting on those Sony Bravia 7 and 9 Review notifications!
Bravia 7 reviewd really good at 8.4
@@Badcompany2PS5 It posted a score below the X93L despite having the same dimming zones as the X95L. It's also $2,000 now for the 65 inch which is a high price for a mid-range model. More importantly it has as bad viewing angles as VA panel can possibly post and no premium anti-reflection coating. The viewing angles compete with the X90L which are its Achilles heel and it's such a cheaper alternative.
The X95L was superior to the X93L (see the subtitle image on ratings between the 2). I expected the Bravia 7 to be as good as the X95L but sadly it's a brighter, more expensive X92L.
It's surprising because the Bravia 7 is facing so much competition from the U8N and QM8 this year and it's not bringing much to the table other than brightness. It's extremely disappointing because the Bravia 9 got so many upgrades and the Bravia 7's most important upgrades were price, brightness and a model name change, two of which don't really benefit the consumer.
Who reviewed it? @@Badcompany2PS5
@@Badcompany2PS5Samsung QN90D at 8.4
More panel information please! Even if it’s just a box on the side of the video that you don’t talk about very long, it’ll almost certainly provide information that is hard or even impossible for a consumer to get ourselves
Yes! Would love to get the panel stats in your reviews! Thanks!
Regarding breakers, a rough calculation for a 15 amp circuit is about 1300 watts continuous (80% of 15). Picking a random bright TV, the 85” Hisense UX, the consumption is 300w max an 71w continuous as per Rtings.
I think there is a ways to go before modern tvs start popping breakers. My old Panasonic plasma tv used to double as a space heater, after all.
15-amp circuit gives you a peak of 1800w, and continuous draw is 1500w. Not sure where you're getting that 1300w continuous. Also for a 20-amp circuit it's 2400w peak and 1800w continuous.
@@randysalsman6992 when installing a continuous load such as a car charger, the standard is 80% of the breaker. A 60 amp circuit is required for a 48 amp charger.
Take a look around at space heaters and microwaves, you won’t find that many that exceed 1300 watts since they are designed for 15 amp breakers.
I also used 110 volts as the standard voltage.
@@randysalsman6992i think you missed the point of the comment. You won’t be seeing any TVs popping breakers.
I was also speaking of electrical code that has the 80% rule for choosing breaker vs continuous power.
yes please add 10 bit panel info in your reviews
Caleb: PLEASE do check for TV panel bit depth and type of panel!! Keep the good work !
The Sony Bravia 7 Mini-LED at 55" is £1900 ($2400) in the UK. I bought my 55" LG C3 2 months ago for £919. This is nuts.
Sony is premium tho with Panasonic,Significantly better Tvs in processing and Cinema settings
It's not worth the premium. Other brands are catching up in processing.
@@Jza-GZa40kpremium that still gives you only 2 hdmi 2.1. Futureproofing is bad and it’s more on marketing for future
@@syed2694no not really. I have a Sony a95l and a LG G4. The a95l processing and upscaling is still significantly better than LG.
The Sony answer is helpful to me since I have a 12 years old Sony LCD tv.
Please include the panel info in the videos with nit for nerds section! Would love to know more in depth info (panel type, bit type, etc...). Most of the time, this info is buried or not accurate online.
Absolutely, please let us know all the panel details as much as possible! Including Sony's LCD models difference between 65", 75" and 85" as it has been so with the X95K and X95L and quite possibly is again a different panel for the 85".
Yes, please and thank you, to more info on display panels! I'm looking for a large LCD TV and I'm okay with trading some native contrast for a wider viewing angle if only I could identify a TV with an IPS panel instead of VA, and there's only a scant few resources and reviews that mention the panel type.
IPS LCD looks like garbage vs VA LCD or OLED, etc.
Avoid IPS like the plague unless you actually like looking at an ugly washed out picture. 🤮🤮🤮
I too had wondered why larger tvs cost proportionally so much higher than the smaller versions. The "mother glass" explanation helped me better understand the reasoning.
Another reason reason pricing isn't linear across TV sizes is because your chances of success cutting a consistent 82" panel are *exponentially* lower than a 77"... the probability scale isn't linear here.
Cutting the panel is easy, getting finished pixels to work consistently across the cut is the real challenge. This gets much harder with larger sizes.
Additionally, larger TV's require higher reinforcement. This does not follow the linear scale either. For example, a 75" TV weighs in at approximately 40-50% more than a 65" of the same model while being only a third larger in screen area. If you followed FMEA and tensile strength equations, there are formulas for those. Lets say a ruler 10 cm long has a bending strength of 10 Newtons and weighs 100 grams.
A 20 cm ruler that's capable of withstanding the same tensile strength isn't going to weigh 200 grams- it's going to weigh 282.8 grams. This example illustrates the non-linear relationship between size and the required reinforcement for maintaining structural integrity. A real world use case scenario would be that if you had a ruler, saw it into two or three pieces, and you'd see how much more the smaller pieces resist bending, as opposed to the full ruler.
There's also a lot more to this than what I can describe here
Yes on panel info.
Hi caleb, in your testing of the lg g4, have you encountered any hdmi issue? Specifically in my case, when I have been watching any onboard streaming apps, and then changing to hdmi2 (doesn't seem to matter what source I have plugged in), the screen goes fuzzy/liney. It normally takes watching the apps for 10 mins or so for me to force it to happen again if anyone wants to test this. Unplugging the tv fixes the issue, but is obviously annoying. Im waiting for lg to get back to me about a fix. Thanks.
Thanks for the timestamps - they help me zero-in on the answers that apply to my situation...
A typical AC unit in the window can draw up to 12 amps ( being an older unit ), as this is said, Plasma was the biggest draw next to projection CRT. LCD led and OLED really do not meet more than the 7amp mark. So, a brighter light source, like one in a 4k ust projector, would be more than any 80" set or lower. Tripping a breaker would include a high power audio system PLUS the set, and even then would probably not do more than dim the lights when the system cones on. I experience this when my home theater powers up ( 2 self powered subs, one Adcom gfa 5000 series 4 channel amp powering 2 passive sub speakers, Onkyo TX-NR 686 amp running 7.4.2, Vava 4k black projector, nVidia Shield Pro ). 30+ years of consumer electronics repair here.
Yes. I would like to see Panel info in future videos.
Yes panel info would be great!
More panel info would be great!
I found it interesting that you reccomened two SONY 2023 models for a room with extensive daylight rather than the new Samsung with a special screen that defuses light reflections. I think I got that right?
Caleb is so tanned now
Yes, please add more panel info 📺
Are there any mini leds that have really good far side vision? Thinking great room concept.
yes pls. Add panel details
Yes add panel info thank you
yes. we want panel info. thank you.
More technical details, yes please!
Good point on contrast enhancer. I'm on Sony and watch lots of drawn contents - cartoons and animes. Vivid mode is the best for such content. So it depends on what you are watching.
What Sony do you have where vivid is the best for that?
@@techsamurai11 I have the 65 / X950G paired with Apple TV 4K SDR and match content/FR.
@@tech4now_interesting, that model has HDR dimming issues in DV and maybe in other content but generally speaking all TVs have some HDR issues. Have you tried switching to SDR? I doubt you’ll lose any of the brightness and you won’t have to switch to Vivid which I personally have never touched since it’s a downgrade. Ratings has some solutions.
I don’t know about TVs but in checking their wattage use they were in the 100-200 watt range. I have a tv, a console, an AVR, a class a/b Amp, and a sub on the same breaker. I’ve never tripped it except when I was playing Dragon Age Inquisition on the PS4 without a sub and the AVR was getting pummeled by low frequency effects and the AVR went into protect mode.
I think Oleds use more wattage (one type does and I forget which). My TV is a 55 inch LED.
Think about PCs. How many PCs have a 1000 watt PSU and what do you use it for? It’s unlikely TVs have such mammoth power supplies.
Think about AVRs, how many can handle 7*100 watts continuous? Only the best but Class A/B means a lot more than 700 Watts since they are inefficient.
Subwoofers like SVS claim massive power numbers since low frequency take much more power to generate than high frequencies.
I’ve had a movie theater for 20 years with 60,000 hours of use and the breaker has held up.
Would definitely like to know how panel type may affect the TV’s performance in a given comparison review. IE VA panel in a 65 U8k versus a ADS panel in a 75 U8k. Say against the TCL U8N for example
Yes, please include panel info in the future!!
Yeah! Let us know the bits!
The problem with contrast enhancer, at least on Samsung, is that sometimes High provides the punchier picture and sometimes Low provides the punchier picture. So I find myself having to adjust it depending on the content. And the Samsung UI is not at all helpful for making on the fly image adjustments.
Good advice on which Sony TV to buy. I upgraded from a 13 year old Bravia to the x90L and it is such an insane upgrade at a fairly reasonable price. Adding 39" to the TV certainly helps too.
Your 13 yr old Bravia was made by -- SHARP Aquos in Japan . 💯 2010-2011 globally LED was contracted by SHARP whole sale . So u had sharp tv all this time that u didn’t know :)
Hisense bought Sharp tv in 2015 .
N has Sharp patterns. They produce more premium LED now :)
@@Yoga_Tv_buying Thanks I guess? It was a good TV at the time but Technology marches on.
I have a Samsung S 90 C 77 inch and I can’t imagine watching HDR content without contrast enhancers on. You wouldn’t even notice that it’s HDR without it. However, when people turn on contrast enhancer for SDR content, that’s when it makes the picture look awful.
i have a q90t hdr looks amazing already never tried contrast enhancer on what differences does it make
I tried using it and yes it will make the picture brighter but at the same time it made it when there were bright highlights they wouldn't be as impactfull. So all the setting does is makes the differces between the dark and bright less dynamic and what I love the most when it comes to both my visial and audio experience is those dynamics. Not much worse then flat picture or sound. Now if when I use the contrast enhancer it did what the name intails like along with making your overall picture brighter (what's meant to be bright that is) and not raise the black at all but at the same time when those HDR highlights are there they are that much brighter, so if the HDR highlight was 3x the brightness of the rest of the brightess then now that your overall brightness is lets say now 50% with the contrast enhancers on then those HDR highlights need to also be 50% brighter then they were before contrast enhancers was turned on. If that's what it did I'd use it but it doesn't, on my Samsung s90c when I turn on contrast enhancer the overall brightness goes up along with the blacks might still be black but something about it don't look the same, looks digitally alteard and when watching HDR the overall brightness is raised like with SDR but the bright highlights will go down in brightness. So to me with contrast enhancer on HDR is no longer HDR, it is SDR+ and when contrast enhancer is on SDR the setting instead of being called contrast enhancer should be called contrast destroyer and SDR becomes SDR-.
sounds like samsung's settings are not set properly for contrast. Bummer if you have to change it. There are only 1-2 changes you need to make for perfection - the color temp and leaving on the light sensor without other eco settings. These are the only 2 changes you should need to make to get the best image out of your TV. After that, any setting you change should not make the TV look better, just different, with the majority making it look worse. A well-optimized TV should be perfect in all content.
When is the S95D review coming out?
Panel info would to great
You have to consider not only is it power consumption limited at some point, especially for larger tv's, but there is also the power efficiency standards imposed by many locals, It is already the case where a tv is hindered to pass say an EU power requirement or get a certain energy star rating, and settings or region need to be altered to get the most out of the tv possible. You also have to factor in other aspects of the set, are you using the built in speakers, how good are they, how much processing are you letting the TV do for upscaling or contrast enhancement, or backlight control. Lots of things in the TV need power, not just the pixel brightness. Then again you have giant wall sized tv's full of Micro or mini led's and they don't often talk about needing any special power circuits to install those residentially so....can't really say
Hi Caleb. Other channels are now posting their Sony Bravia TV reviews. Just wondering when are you going to post yours?
Excellent video. I would love to see a rating of Chroma Sub-sampling and Video Bit Depth as well in your reviews if possible. I need the option of using a TV occasionally as a computer screen but have noticed that most TV screens are not able to produce text resolution clearly because they are not 4:4:4 chroma. Thanks!
Regarding contrast booster, keeping it off or low in my S95C best works for me. medium can be barely tolerable and high is a big no. You'll lose shadow details and picture would look patchy, flat, very unnatural with lot of noise, particularly when it's human faces on screen.
Native bit depth of a TV panel would be an excellent dimension to review to the nit nerd section!
9:55 the Sony X90L is actually a subpar recommendation for that person. They have a lot of ambient light and huge windows so therefore really need the better reflection handling of the X95L if that's to expensive they should consider the X93L (=X95K) but they should most definitely avoid the X90L and Bravia 7 for that matter
I believe there were some plasma TV’s back in the day that use 220V outlets. Those would trip breakers if your service wasn’t set up for it? Like a clothes dryer or air conditioner would if you had too many things turned on.
How do you go about sound treatment? Where do you start?
83" pricing is not bad compared to the 97". I would love a 97"but it does not have MLA yet and its soooo expensive.
I don’t know about all TVs but in checking their wattage use of 65 inch TVs they were in the 100-200 watt range. Obviously size will affect it. I just checked Samsung and according to their specs, the 85 inch Qn85C has a 335 watt max power with an average of 206 watts while the QN90C has a 375 watt max with the same average. The numbers for the 65 inc are 245Watts max and 137 average. OLEDs use a bit more I think.
So can you trip a 1800 watt (15A) circuit with it? No. Can you trip a 2400 watt (20A) circuit with it. Definitely not as you can only draw 350 Watts with a 85 inch and even 98 inch TVs top at under 500 watts.
I have a tv, a console, an AVR, a class a/b Amp, and a sub on the same breaker. I’ve never tripped it except when I was playing Dragon Age Inquisition on the PS4 without a sub and the single AVR was getting pummeled by low frequency effects and the AVR went into protect mode but the sound was insane almost like a deep bass sweep sound and there were dozens in a battle hitting the AVR - you'll never have that happen except in that game and the AVR did its job and went into protect mode.
My TV is a 55 inch LED.
Think about PCs. How many PCs have a 1000 watt PSU and what do you use it for? It’s unlikely TVs have such mammoth power supplies unless you have the best GPU.
PS5 and Xbox Series X can use up to 250 watts.
It's sound that really uses a lot of power, not visuals.
Think about AVRs, how many can handle 7*100 watts continuous? Only the best models can sustain 700 watts but Class A/B means a lot more than 700 Watts since they are inefficient.
Subwoofers like SVS claim massive power numbers since low frequencies take much more power to generate than high frequencies.
I’ve had a movie theater for 20 years with 60,000 hours of use and the breaker has held up and it's a 15A - I wish I'd been able to put a 20A (or two) when I was building the house and had known about breakers (I just learned about power demands and overloading a breaker much later) but in all honesty I've never needed them.
Voltage x amps = watts. 120 volts x 15 amps is equal to a 1800 watt circuit. Now depending on how many other devices are in that circuit could limit the total amount of power available to the TV and how much it needs achieve peak brightness. However 1800 watts is a lot of power and i doubt you would ever run out of juice causing a TV to be limited in its capabilities.
I'm trying to figure out which 98" panel to buy.. Sony X90L? Samsung QN90D?
Thanks
I love these episodes. Great questions and content. Hopefully, it'll continue for a long time to come!
More and more I’m wondering if the newest high end televisions are worth it being that more sporting events are moving to streaming. it’s been my experience that live streamed sports on Netflix and Amazon just don’t match the quality I get on live television using sat.
absolutely into more panel detail - thanks for asking!
Sony A95L vs G4 ... who do you guys think is better?
Hi I'm just wondering about the IMAX enhanced picture mode on Sony TVs does it requires the IMAX content or with it being a picture mode now on my new x95L does it apply processing to any content. On my x95g it was it's own version of HDR.
I’m guessing it’s for IMAX content with Sony Pictures Core.
Yes please! 🎉 absolutely include panel types!!
I was going to recommend the Bravia 7, as it is a good compromise between price and performance.
that was great Caleb, you always have so much good info for me. when I'm ready I will ask for your recommendation on a new TV 👍👍
after many years of having a Bravia LCD(when it was the thing next to plasma tvs). It was time to upgrade. So did my research/homework on tvs and went with another Bravia. I was going to hit up Samsung, but Sony had a better stand width that fit my current tv stand. As where Samsung stand was to wide. Even good tv stands these days are not cheap, but then again you don't want your nice new tv on a cheap stand. I'm very happy with my new Bravia LED and it's direct/back lit and the picture was way better in store compared to Samsung edge lit.
I have a Samsung UA65JS9000 curved TV and it reflects everything the ceiling light are seam clearly on the screen and has been annoying for years now. What is the best tv to get to eliminate reflection
One of the primary reasons why products tend to get exponentially more expensive as you move up the product chain is economies of scale.
Once you get to 83 inches and above, you are selling so few of them compared to say 65 inches because A: most people have standard sized living rooms and don't want a giant beheamoth that would give them neck pain when sitting close to it and B: Manufacturing 83 inch TV's is a lot more expensive than manufacturing 65 inch TV's which means fewer people can afford it.
When you are moving so few units because the demand is very low, your price must go up to cover the large fixed cost per unit eating away at your profit margin.
Simple economics.
please compare samsang qd oled vs samsang micro led tv.
Yes I would like to the big rate of the TV.
when will u be reviewing the bravia 8 oled and please comoare it to g4
Since i repair TV's for a living, here is my take on the amount of power that ultra bright panels requre.
The figures quoted are often the peak brigtness, the average brightness is way less so to ensure that
the power supply can cope with the demands of peak brightness which is only required for a few seconds
a designed in reserve is there.
Put it this way, the size and rating of the cable that goes from your TV to the wall socket gives you a clue,
It is way less than you will find on appliances that have a high current requirement such as a heater or kettle.
One point is that Oled panels are way more power hungry than Led and hence cost more to run.
Just compare the energy ratings for them, then that large new Oled TV may not be the best choice
if you are paying a high price for electricity.
Can you please review the Bravia 9 and the Samsung S95D already? =) Seems everyone already has a review on these except my favorite reviewer.
Can’t wait for the new Panasonic they are beasts,They also provide better dolby vision support and settings on top of processing,It’s a shame the US don’t have them,They could really dominate sony like they have done for picture quality for years.
Panasonic's make the best TV's. Before they left the west they made the best TV's and when it came to the plasma TV that's where Panasonic really shined, I wanted one so bad and when I finally had the chance it was I think 2012-2013, all I could find was a little 50 inch and also I think it was their lowest end plasma as well. Like I wanted to cry, just like 2 years before that I was in the store looking at thier 63 inch V-series, which was second only to their top line z-series, but that was lot more and I never seen them and the one I was drooling over was about $2300 and wanted to get when I had the money or that years equivalent. Though when the time came they were all but gone, hence just the 50 inch loser series, I ended up getting instead a Samsung 60 inch Plasma, it was $1200 and cheaper then the 50 inch Pany and it was a smart TV where the Pany was not. I still almost got the Panasonic because how much I always wanted one, but my girlfriend talked me out of it. It was good she did because I would have been pissed at myself later but still to today I would love to have a top end Panasonic, never had a Pany. I still find myself looking at those old V-series on e-bay. lol
@@randysalsman6992 Nice story man,It is unfortunate they left the US market,And yes,They produce the best undisputed kings of TVs still,Their OLED line up is THE best with supreme picture quality and intricate processing,Super clever tech behind them hence the premiumness of them…They also now have a first new Full Array and Mini LED with the new processor used in their OLED line up which are pretty much the best of the best,Even their full array will beat a lot of mini leds and don’t get me started on their amazing gaming setting and video settings inside of sub menus.
Thoughts on the new Samsung Q70D? Are you planning to do a review on it?
Yeah, a pinch more information on panels would be great.
Which tv is 7:01 and 7:03?
My '18 tcl 65r615 is just starting it's black screen if death phase. With my pc input it's started freaking out when hdr activates it flickers off and on until it's shut off. Then all video inputs stopped working and needed a power reset. I'm hoping it makes it through the summer.
Do a best of 8k review!
I like the contrast enhancer.
can you review sony bravia 8?
12 bit color tvs let's gooooo
Please start adding if its 8 or 10 bit.
Hisense and TCl big tvs are relatively cheap compared to the other brands
Dor the longest time i avoidedvivid mode as every review said todo so. Then one day i turned it on for my ps5 and accuracy be dammed, i just preferred the look
More info in nit nerds. We want it. Start doing it!
Did you purposely suggest the 2023 models strictly for cost or are the 2023 models better?
When I got my very first 55 inch 4k samsung curve tv from 2014. I had to call samsung customer service to confirm if the panel is 8 bit or 10 bit. The samsung customer service told me that the 2014 samsung tv that I was using was only an 8 bit panel back in 2014. I even had to ask the same customer service rep about the newer 2017 samsung 4k qled curve tv if the panel is 8 bit or 10 bit and he told me that the 2017 samsung curve qled 4k tv is 10 bit panel since I mentioned the model number of the tv since the samsung tv is the samsung q7c since it's the model that I'm going to buy. I ended up upgrading to the newer 65 inch 2017 samsung 4k qled curve tv since it was a huge upgrade from 2014 to 2017 model. My 2017 samsung tv has no ads on it but the 2014 samsung tv came with the gamefly built into the TV with older versions of tizen.
Definitely do the panel info! Also is the hisense u8n 10 bit or 8 +frc I know the u8k was not 10 bit. Hopefully hisense finally went 10 bit
I want to know which tv is using real 10 bit panel
Nice video keep up the good work
Yes I sell TVs as my job so I would love this for my fellow not nerds as I struggle to find this info anywhere
Yes pls say 10bit or so
I’d appreciate more details on treating a room for audio 👍🏻
Good stuff!
I got 83" c3 for 3K last weak
Bravia 9 review coming soon Caleb?
id love bitdepth in reviews.
Don't forget economies of scale. They probably sell 100 times more 65"" TVs than 85".
i have a Sony Bravia X90CH and need to buy a tv for another room, I would like the new to replace my main and move this one to another room. so... what would be a good sony to replace my X90CH Oh, and its a 65 I don't want OLED because of possible burn in...
Sony A95l has a 12 bit panel
Im definitely all about hearing panel types and specs for sure. To me thats what numbers for nit nerds is about