"I don't think she hit any potholes" Lol, that's like my wife saying "I didn't run anything over" after the third tire replacement. Ivan lives in the freeze/thaw zone. The potholes are merciless.
Sir Ivan, If there's ONE THING I've learned in my 33 years of marriage is " DRIVE YOUR WIFES VEHICLE AT THE LEAST ONCE A MONTH " also check the fluids & tire pressure weekly if possible. Most women have not a clue about vehicles or to check anything other then putting gas in it. SORRY but R.I.P. MY BRIDE.
Ain't that the truth, Nowr2run! I took my wife's former S10 Blazer to visit my parents one day, and the steering column was falling apart! The entire tilt assembly was held on by only ONE bolt ... and that one had backed out 50% of the way!! The other 3 had backed out completely. She didn't even notice the 5" of slop, LOL. I still give her crap about that one! 😂🤣😂
Ron Evans yeah me too..sway bar end links changed in summer and bad by the next summer...moog on rockauto was knocked down to daily driver and is no longer premium lol proforged are now premium
Nothing automotive aftermarket is what it once was. Im restoring and old pontiac and the tie rod end boots i installed last vear and have yet to actually get driven on the road have all split and rotted. Juuuuunk!
Gotta love your spiral notebook paper logs. I maintain a fleet of school buses and spiral notebooks have proved faithful maintenance logs for over 20 years. The hard drive never crashes and they never get deleted. Kept on keeping it simple my man. Not to mention messy hair continues in 2020!!! I maintain the same hairstyle.... hat comes off hair goes crazy. Not worth doing anything about it.
The only replacement parts that I have found that outlast OEM factory installed parts are brake pads. Every other part type, especially suspension parts, no matter the brand or cost seem to wear out sooner than the original parts they replaced.
Moogs were guaranteed for life. Replace all my front end assemblies [ upper lower ball joints, tie rod end, pitman arms etc] on my 1997 chevy p/u 5 years ago. still going strong
Ivan it looks like it failed because boot ripped open letting water in. Parts that have creases so when you install the part and boot squishes. It folds on the preformed creases. Not thoses universal boots. Everytime ive seen a failed boot it always tear at the crease
There's different levels of quality. I work with industrial equipment from Japanese, Korean and Taiwanese companies. Some of that stuff is outsourced to China. I don't know about ball joints, but control components, switches, hydraulic pumps and cylinders from Japanese companies are still kicking after 20 years of abuse and the new stuff seems just as reliable, even if it was mostly made in China. I have some questions about the choices the engineers made, but the workmanship is up to snuff.
@@loktom4068they have gotten significantly better since it’s been decades since they were nuked now. In the 90’s they made cars that put the Americans to absolute shame.
Ivan, Great video/fix - thank you. Clearly the torn boot was the cause of the failure as water/dirt got into the joint. I recently replaced a ball joint on my 02 Focus and I used a Moog Problem Solver which was made in USA (woo hoo) and greasable like the one you got. PITA because the original was riveted to the arm and I had to drill out the rivets. What I dont like about the Moog part you got was the boot not being bonded to the metal part of the joint at the bottom. On mine it was. Good luck/God bless Paul (in MA)
I've had no luck with Moog lately, and they used to be the go-to premium aftermarket part. I had 2 lowers fail on my 05 TL ( rt side) in the last 3 yrs. ( and those are not easy to replace!) Last time I bit the bullet and got a new 1 from Acura. We'll see how long it hangs in there.
I have a 2015 Jeep Patriot with 100k miles and some change. I didn't feel any play in the tires but i noticed when i hit bumps something felt loose but it sounded like it was coming from the rear. I checked the rear for play, loosened and torqued everything again for safe measure. I'm still hearing it. Most everything up front and back is new so I was confused. It went through the PA state inspection and an alignment shop with no issue. Wouldn't you know that when I was replacing my cv axles, i noticed that my ball joints of the Moog RKs on both sides had excessive rotational play and were grinding with only 14k miles on them. They were kept lubed so that wasn't the problem. They certainly weren't that loose when I put them in. They're under warranty so that's a plus. I'm doubting mechanics in the area though.
In all fairness to the ball joint manufacturer our roads are not easy on our vehicles. But thank you for the reminder because I'm going to give both my vehicles a thorough suspension examination today. Please keep up the awesome videos Ivan!!!
I’ve peeled Napa stickers off of Napa branded parts just to find the Dorman logo. I always strongly recommend Moog brand suspension parts to customers. With a commercial account at the local parts store, does it still pay for you to order from Rock Auto? Even if I had to pay $10-$20 more locally, it would make the return/ warranty process much easier.
throttle bottle The rubber is junk. Marine 303 makes it last. Of the Chinese bearings that I have pulled the dust shield off it looked like they were barley packed with silicone paste. I fill them up with ep moly let the silicone and moly mix around. No problems.
Moog ball Bottom Ball joints on my Citroen last 18 months but the originals lasted 120,000, same with track rod ends. So every second yearly inspection means new joints and from alignment. Unless something begins chattering and needs replacing before then. anti roll bar links are much about the same, originals 100,000 miles replacements 18 months.
I refuse to buy MOOG ball joints anymore for my Isuzu. With the same part number you get one of 3 or 4 different styles. No guarantee that you get the same ones for each side. 2 of those styles are made by Sankai/555. I replace lowers every 2 years-ish because off roading is hard on them. In 15 years I think I have gotten one that was actually made by MOOG. The rest were all made by someone else and packaged by MOOG.
Is this Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics?? I didn't see the ball joint scanner diagnosis. What code was that? Good video Ivan. Thanks for sharing, you always have good content!! Don't forget to clear the code.
Hey Ivan, any chance of you doing a review of the Harbor Freight "Zurich Pro" scanner? I was afraid of insulting you with anything to do with Harbor Freight until you broke out the Earthquake impact gun.
The part failed because the boot is damaged. It's split where it's facing the front of the car,so it got damaged by debris wich wore it unilateral wear on front end is typical,roads are not flat,and mass repartition is not great,same on suspension travel,,so lower control arm angle.
With that rubber boot split, it would get water logged/rusted so maybe it was just a cheap boot that killed it. Did you have a look for rust/water in the joint?. Tell the misses it was her bad driving he he :-D
The old one did not have a grease fitting either. You are correct (at least I think you are). The damaged boot likely caused the failure to happen. There is a chance that it wasn't lubed initially from the factory but more than likely water accumulated inside the boot. Rust could be a sign of this but isnt always there. I think it is the freeze thaw cycle as water expands when it freezes. With winters lately, we have seen temp swings from below to above freezing sometimes just days apart. It cracks the rubber binding the two metal components and then fills in the cracks next thaw, then refreezes and makes it bigger. Add dirt and it can go bad quickly. This is where a grease fitting is handy. It doesn't stop it but creates a barrier of sorts that the water and dirt collect on. If it is lubed regularly, the freeze thaw acts on the grease rather than the binding components that make it work. When you relube it, it pushes the water and dirt back away constantly replacing the substrate that is being damaged in this way. About anything that has a dust boot over it tends to ho bad like this unless something stops the water from reaching the critical parts.
@@sumduma55 That was a very well thought out reply :-D, much better than my shallow basic one. And my comment about his misses?, could she be blamed and ivan get away with it? Just a joke :-D
@@zx8401ztv your post was fine. I just wanted to go into the details or mechanics of how it causes the damage. Sealed units are great as long as they remain sealed. Lubed unites are great as long as the remain greased.
If US roads have as many "traffic calming" speed humps as the UK does Ivan then you'll know 2 years and 30k miles is about average. Since speed humps were introduced we've seen the number of ball joints, drop links and broken coil springs rise by a ridiculous amount. Vauxhall (GM) and Peugeot/Renault love a ball joint or spring and VW's love a drop link. I'm on my 3rd set of them on my Passat. Nothing is made to the quality it used to be anymore. Can you get Lemforder parts in the US? They are pricey but do seem to buck the crap quality most churn out.
Yes, agree with hard to find quality parts. I'm finding that just to save time picking up parts at dealer has become more frequent. Pay once cry once. Thanks for the video.
You are very lucky, because I changed the same part on a Nissan Xtrail, and the whole arm is changed, because the joint is not crimped inside, with total $ 730 of parts. And my car had - 100,000 km. At work we have some NV 200 made in Mexico, and a lot of problem past 3 years. For me, Nissan would buy more.
Had the lower control arms on my Dodge go bad, my mechanic replaced them with Moogs. A year later the "regular" ball joints in them went bad again. He replaced the ball joints with Moog Problem Solvers and they've held up for several years now. I just add some grease when I'm under there changing the oil. Easy peasy.
Isn't that the side you had a hard time separating when you changed the transmission a well? Was wondering I if that attributed toward its early demise.
Agree Timken bearings both shot after 10000km on a 2000 corolla. Replaced with junkyard hub with bearing. Flawless for over 25000km. Get SKF or OEM when it comes to wheel bearings
That boot tear does look old. Is that the first or only 555 you've used? I've seen thousands of miles on Sankei 555 ball joints without wear like this, I use them with just about any customer I can. Seem to last a long time, even on the double wishbone Accords. Had so many Moog joints go bad FAST, some within weeks. A lot of their control arm bushings are ridiculously bad.
Here in Puerto Rico, parts vendors always say "it's not original, but it's made in Japan it's the same or better." The first thing that occurs to me is to punch the guy in the mouth for saying that stupid thing
I just replaced upper control arms, outer tie rods and all ball joints on my Chevy at 225K with "Moog problem solvers." No issues with install so I hope they last as long as originals. I'll keep greasing and inspecting boots.
HI IVAN,since that part holds the wheels up right maybe if a factory part is available no matter what the cost ,i would buy that. Your wife is worth it ,and it's always cheaper that a ER room visit.Thanks for sharing.
I used to tell my wife she was hard on equipment. Keeping her car on the road kept me busy. I didn’t mind it so much. Even the occasional neighbors mailbox I had to fix for her.
I remember watching a video you did about a timing belt and idler pulley replacement. Need to do the same to my camry. How do you make sure you do not get the chinese idler bearings ?.How can I tell what i`m getting when i mail order parts. I remember you went through this before.
IT'S A CRAP SHOOT, that being said " EVEN WHEN IT SAYS WHAT YOUR GETTING DOES NOT ALWAYS MEAN WHAT YOU RECEIVE ". DO A HELL OF A LOT OF HOMEWORK ( SEARCHING ON THE NET ) to try to get the best part & price you can. Then there's " FAKE PARTS TO DEAL WITH ALSO " LOOK LIKE FACTORY BOX & PART BUT WITH SUBTLE CHANGES, IT'S A PIA. Even dealer parts I have received were fake parts, UNREAL. GOOD LUCK BUT DO YOUR HOMEWORK IF POSSIBLE ? OH, One more thing try to buy " NEW PARTS " NOT RECONDITIONED ALSO. Sometimes I go to the U-PULL-IT to look for parts if I can't find anything that looks good.
So hard to find quality parts! I don't mind paying it they would have some kind of real promise of quality that you could trust! Glad Mrs Ivan will be safe on the road again.
Ball joints are a wear item, accelerated wear occurs if you keep the wheel pressed hard against the turn-stop as well. But some do just crap out prematurely as well, I wouldn't put much in it just because one of them went bad after a little while. We had NOx sensors at work OEM parts since we're the dealership, "new and improved" the manufacturer said, first batch only lasted 4 hours on one truck, 3 days on most of the rest. I'd be willing to put money on that the two ball joints have different batch numbers. EDIT: Another thing is that it doesn't really matter where something was made any more, it's all predetermined when they spec out the part, price, profit margin, estimated lifetime etc, whoever and wherever it's made will then try as best they can to make a part exactly to the specs, and whoever can do that the cheapest gets to make the parts. Of course places with little experience in manufacturing will deliver shitty parts until they work out how to do it right.
Rubber anti sway bushing suspension parts replaced today will need replacement one year later as the replacement rubber compound used to manufacture the bushings deteriorate with exposure to air.
Outside of OEM parts, I stick with my MOOG all day long on all suspension parts and bolt on wheel Bearings. They are the best after market suspension parts in my opinion and have never failed me prematurely. Nice video and keep up the Great work.
They were until they got bought out. They used plastic inside one of their lower ball joints which cracks after 12k miles. A RUclipsr cut open one of these and found plastic. The old moog parts used steel.
I did a wheel bearing replacement last fall (unbolt the spindle and go to the mechanic to get it pressed out method) and the bearing hums at 105 km/h ever since (albeit not nearly as bad as the old one). I don't think I chose the best mechanic in the world but he didn't seem to damage the bearing so I called the parts store and they said that they would eat the part and get me a new one if it was defective. Thankfully though, my bearing never got hot or developed play over the winter and has slowly become quieter as it "broke in" I guess? Wheel bearings should never need to be broken in, but at least it didn't go bad and it's safe, that's all I care about.
I’ve been installing the ACDELCO professional series ball joints. They are very nicely made. Not their advantage line! It has to be the professional series with the blue boots.
Love your video explain very well compare to other youtube channel learned a lot from you thanks. I am tying to install a rpm tach on a 2002 Toyota sienna having trouble with the green wire where exactly to connect it, I was wondering you can help thanks.
I just ordered all 4 ball joints for my 2000 frontier. 2 uppers made in USA, one had a split boot out of the box had to exchange. 2 lowers are made in Mexico. Time will tell!
I’ve seen someone that has moog lower ball joints in his 2010 Chevy Silverado and I checked them for play and they were bad and that was 2 summers ago and the guy still has them today on his truck..yes I know it’s a safety issue..it’s not my truck and have tried countless times to get him to replace them but he likes changing tires frequently lol the moog ball joints were made in the USA
They have to be REALLY worn on a pickup like that before they fall apart. I just changed them on my 2000 Expedition with 140,000 miles on it. The boots were all cracked and the grease mostly gone, but I could barely feel any play in the joints themselves. Bet they don't make them like that anymore. I'm an old guy retired in a small town, and don't commute anymore, so I doubt I'll ever wear out the cheap Chinese ones I put in.
You may want to recheck the right side for torn boots on the ball-joint. The fact that the boot torn in such a short time indicates poor quality and therefore letting the grease out and dirt going in, wearing the joint prematurely.
Hey Ivan, what do you have as a lift there? I need a solution I could use what is not thaaaat expensive. It's for our second side of the garage if I can't get to our normal lift.
I made the same decision, the “altrom” sankei 555 only come with 1 year warranty, but if you got the Napa Canada boxed made in Japan joints they would have had lifetime. The ac delco boxed lbj for my application sbh072 8th gen i4 accord are also sankei 555 inside box and they have lifetime warranty
That's funny. I recently did ball joints on my Sable. Both lower maybe Aug or Sept of 2019. Both of mine were Moog. 1 is still good, the other is bad already, on the passenger side. Unbelievable! So I don't know how long Moog will last either or maybe I got a bad one. Both were tight out of the box. .. 😕😔
I bought 2014 Infiniti qx50. Made in Japan. IMHO many parts are cheaply made in this car. Rust on undercarriage abounds. Unlike the older high mileage Hondas which I still happily own. And btw the Infiniti QX50 line is now being made in Mexico.
closertothetruth nothing wrong with Mazda. Probably better than Lexus/Toyota now. Definitely better than Honda/Acura. Tell me what Mazda vehicle made in the last 10 years is actually bad. I can’t think of any 🤷♂️
@@youngb1ood not too bad, seen worse , here in Australia they were good and still are ok but since the renault 50% take over the quality has declined just as with nissan and renault man nissan were good now theyre shit i hate working on them, like so many brands since the GFC , its annoying really,
Of course it's French like whole Nissan. It doesn't only matter where it was made, what meters who designed it. I have a Toyota from Turkey and it is completely trouble-free. No even one part replaced in suspension in 10 years. I prefer the Turkish Toyota than the "Japanese" Nissan...The French bought Nissan so that the Americans would start buying French cars ... it worked.
MOOG name is no guarantee. I ordered upper and lower MOOG joints for my SUV. I got 2 from China and 2 from Poland. The Chinese ones had totally different castings and boots. They were rough and primitive compared to the Polish-made ones.
I don't know about auto parts, but the Poles make great machine tools. Check out the lathe chuck on the abom79 RUclips channel. That lathe chuck is a work of art.
I get chastised for it often but this is why I like to stick with OEM parts, the after market scene is very sketchy at best. I've heard after market electrical parts are the worst.
A boot that was cut by road debris was most likely be responsible for the rapid deterioration of the ball, which appeared to be rusted, NOT the other way around. . Makes me wonder how closely that joint was inspected by the mechanic who does the annual maintenance of that vehicle.That level of damage doesn't happen overnight without symptoms.
looks like chinesium rubber that dry-rotted out and split apart in short order, they "all" do that now, it's no surprise as to why, they want to sell new wreck-heap cars ;)
Wow, Japan ball joint fail? Damn, I've bought moog parts for my vehicles, it lasts pretty long time. It's nice to see the record of the history of the work done on paper. I do as well. I put it on excel, put my receipts in my binder divided by Walmart, autozone, napa, etc. Even my emissions paper. Im particular like that too
I'm noticing this with lots of replacement parts, not just those related to automobiles. Gone are the days when we could count on a lifespan equal to the original part. Most concerning is the fact that a failing part can lead to a chain reaction of other failures, and the costs can quickly add up. I certainly hope this trend changes for the better, and soon!
Beware of cheap Chinese counterfeit parts! Even the big auto parts stores have carried them...The best Suspension parts in my opinion are MOOG and Mevotech Supreme
Disappointing Japanese parts. I had Moog parts fail prematurely as well and switched to Mevotech. We'll see how long those last and it's been 18 months now.
The fact that the other one is sound leads me to guess that one wheel got the most abuse. Potholes are notorious for doing ball joints in and some can be pretty deep for maximum damage. Gotta see the whole picture to evaluate the situation. Repair the roads and that's my rant for this evening.
What are folks thought on pre-grease ball joints vs non? Superficially the pre-greased look better and should last longer over the opposing. I'd imagine a company standing by a product wouldn't put any variable in control of the public, such as grease.
The Moog may be a Sankei 555, which is what the Altrom from napa appears to be. Of course the Moog can be another brand also, or even Moog. You never know what you are buying anymore until you see the actual part.
I’m really suspicious of the 555 brand. It sounds like a Vietnamese counterfeit as many products from Vietnam are 555. The number is commonly used there as it’s a “lucky” number.
Whole southeast asia's most trusted brand, beware of fakes. We are using it for almost 30 years no problems at all but make sure to change it after 10 years of usage or whenever necessary. Trust me i've been to their factory in japan
"I don't think she hit any potholes"
Lol, that's like my wife saying "I didn't run anything over" after the third tire replacement. Ivan lives in the freeze/thaw zone. The potholes are merciless.
I live in pa and the potholes are as big as cars
the 555 Sankei brand of suspension parts are very good and we use them at work and they have been holding up well
Yeah, I expected a lot more from these!
This is already the best quality among cheap parts. All after market products are not durable
As Eric would say... Napper, not a sponsor.
Sir Ivan, If there's ONE THING I've learned in my 33 years of marriage is " DRIVE YOUR WIFES VEHICLE AT THE LEAST ONCE A MONTH " also check the fluids & tire pressure weekly if possible. Most women have not a clue about vehicles or to check anything other then putting gas in it. SORRY but R.I.P. MY BRIDE.
Most people have not a clue, gender's not the primary factor.
That's true but I was typing this to Ivan not everybody, Monkeh.
@@NoWr2Run .. that changes the statement 'most women have not a clue' how?
Agree
Ain't that the truth, Nowr2run! I took my wife's former S10 Blazer to visit my parents one day, and the steering column was falling apart! The entire tilt assembly was held on by only ONE bolt ... and that one had backed out 50% of the way!! The other 3 had backed out completely. She didn't even notice the 5" of slop, LOL. I still give her crap about that one! 😂🤣😂
Moog is not what it once was. i have replaced a number of moog components that failed early.
Ron Evans yeah me too..sway bar end links changed in summer and bad by the next summer...moog on rockauto was knocked down to daily driver and is no longer premium lol proforged are now premium
Ron Evans I also found that moog made in the USA are the reliable ones
Nothing automotive aftermarket is what it once was. Im restoring and old pontiac and the tie rod end boots i installed last vear and have yet to actually get driven on the road have all split and rotted. Juuuuunk!
watsis buttndo energy suspension makes tie rod end or ball joint polyurethane boots that are very good..you should check them out
@@rahrah8076 correct you are sir, thats what i purchased to fix the prob. Cheers!
Ivan when i was a kid in the late 50's made in Japan meant what made in China does today.
The Japanese were smart and listened to W. Edwards Deming and his 14 points and his advocacy for quality above all else.
Gotta love your spiral notebook paper logs. I maintain a fleet of school buses and spiral notebooks have proved faithful maintenance logs for over 20 years. The hard drive never crashes and they never get deleted.
Kept on keeping it simple my man. Not to mention messy hair continues in 2020!!! I maintain the same hairstyle.... hat comes off hair goes crazy. Not worth doing anything about it.
You live in PA. Avoiding potholes is impossible. Sometimes they even swallow a city bus.
The only replacement parts that I have found that outlast OEM factory installed parts are brake pads. Every other part type, especially suspension parts, no matter the brand or cost seem to wear out sooner than the original parts they replaced.
Moogs were guaranteed for life. Replace all my front end assemblies [ upper lower ball joints, tie rod end, pitman arms etc] on my 1997 chevy p/u 5 years ago. still going strong
'Guaranteed for life' is a *marketing* thing, not quality. How much do you use your old truck and where do you live?
Sadly most of not all moog is Chinese made crap these days
It is hard to tell today what is quality anymore. Thanks for sharing. I've had similar experiences. Not the the NAPA part but "others".
Ivan it looks like it failed because boot ripped open letting water in.
Parts that have creases so when you install the part and boot squishes. It folds on the preformed creases. Not thoses universal boots.
Everytime ive seen a failed boot it always tear at the crease
There's different levels of quality.
I work with industrial equipment from Japanese, Korean and Taiwanese companies. Some of that stuff is outsourced to China.
I don't know about ball joints, but control components, switches, hydraulic pumps and cylinders from Japanese companies are still kicking after 20 years of abuse and the new stuff seems just as reliable, even if it was mostly made in China. I have some questions about the choices the engineers made, but the workmanship is up to snuff.
I bought tools made in Japan in the 1960's . The wrench rounds out on the first turn on a nut on my proudly made in Japan quality.
@@loktom4068they have gotten significantly better since it’s been decades since they were nuked now. In the 90’s they made cars that put the Americans to absolute shame.
It’s becoming harder (if not impossible) to find parts that last. Best of luck to you!
Ivan,
Great video/fix - thank you. Clearly the torn boot was the cause of the failure as water/dirt got into the joint. I recently replaced a ball joint on my 02 Focus and I used a Moog Problem Solver which was made in USA (woo hoo) and greasable like the one you got. PITA because the original was riveted to the arm and I had to drill out the rivets. What I dont like about the Moog part you got was the boot not being bonded to the metal part of the joint at the bottom. On mine it was.
Good luck/God bless
Paul (in MA)
Original factory installed ball joints always seem to last longer than any replacements. Personally I am not crazy about Moog parts.
I've had no luck with Moog lately, and they used to be the go-to premium aftermarket part. I had 2 lowers fail on my 05 TL ( rt side) in the last 3 yrs. ( and those are not easy to replace!) Last time I bit the bullet and got a new 1 from Acura. We'll see how long it hangs in there.
I have a 2015 Jeep Patriot with 100k miles and some change. I didn't feel any play in the tires but i noticed when i hit bumps something felt loose but it sounded like it was coming from the rear. I checked the rear for play, loosened and torqued everything again for safe measure. I'm still hearing it. Most everything up front and back is new so I was confused. It went through the PA state inspection and an alignment shop with no issue. Wouldn't you know that when I was replacing my cv axles, i noticed that my ball joints of the Moog RKs on both sides had excessive rotational play and were grinding with only 14k miles on them. They were kept lubed so that wasn't the problem. They certainly weren't that loose when I put them in. They're under warranty so that's a plus. I'm doubting mechanics in the area though.
In all fairness to the ball joint manufacturer our roads are not easy on our vehicles. But thank you for the reminder because I'm going to give both my vehicles a thorough suspension examination today. Please keep up the awesome videos Ivan!!!
I’ve peeled Napa stickers off of Napa branded parts just to find the Dorman logo. I always strongly recommend Moog brand suspension parts to customers.
With a commercial account at the local parts store, does it still pay for you to order from Rock Auto? Even if I had to pay $10-$20 more locally, it would make the return/ warranty process much easier.
Moog definately not the quality they once were. Some - not all - Moog is made in china and probably in the same factory as dorman.
Paul (in MA)
Paul1958R I’ve had great luck with them. Been installing them for years.
Get a grease needle and add more grease to it. It seems that everything is being shipped low on grease.
you call that goo they put in them grease?
also chinesium rubber is highly likely.
throttle bottle The rubber is junk. Marine 303 makes it last. Of the Chinese bearings that I have pulled the dust shield off it looked like they were barley packed with silicone paste. I fill them up with ep moly let the silicone and moly mix around. No problems.
Moog ball
Bottom Ball joints on my Citroen last 18 months but the originals lasted 120,000, same with track rod ends.
So every second yearly inspection means new joints and from alignment.
Unless something begins chattering and needs replacing before then.
anti roll bar links are much about the same, originals 100,000 miles replacements 18 months.
"Napa, not a sponsor" kinda rung through my head .. No idea why.. . 🤣
blund987 “Napper”...Eric O.
I replaced the FR LCA on a 2010 rogue just a few months ago. It came in yesterday for cv shafts.....the "new" balljoint is loose already !
Wow. What brand LCA?
Ivan, the NAPA Ball Joint should be under warranty. I worked for NAPA for forty years. Take it back and get a refund. I really enjoy your videos.
I refuse to buy MOOG ball joints anymore for my Isuzu. With the same part number you get one of 3 or 4 different styles. No guarantee that you get the same ones for each side. 2 of those styles are made by Sankai/555. I replace lowers every 2 years-ish because off roading is hard on them. In 15 years I think I have gotten one that was actually made by MOOG. The rest were all made by someone else and packaged by MOOG.
Is this Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics?? I didn't see the ball joint scanner diagnosis. What code was that? Good video Ivan. Thanks for sharing, you always have good content!! Don't forget to clear the code.
Hey Ivan, any chance of you doing a review of the Harbor Freight "Zurich Pro" scanner? I was afraid of insulting you with anything to do with Harbor Freight until you broke out the Earthquake impact gun.
Like uncle tony’s garage said, “your parts are trying to kill you.”
Well, it's a FIAT uncle Tony.
The part failed because the boot is damaged.
It's split where it's facing the front of the car,so it got damaged by debris wich wore it
unilateral wear on front end is typical,roads are not flat,and mass repartition is not great,same on suspension travel,,so lower control arm angle.
With that rubber boot split, it would get water logged/rusted so maybe it was just a cheap boot that killed it.
Did you have a look for rust/water in the joint?.
Tell the misses it was her bad driving he he :-D
The old one did not have a grease fitting either.
You are correct (at least I think you are). The damaged boot likely caused the failure to happen. There is a chance that it wasn't lubed initially from the factory but more than likely water accumulated inside the boot. Rust could be a sign of this but isnt always there. I think it is the freeze thaw cycle as water expands when it freezes.
With winters lately, we have seen temp swings from below to above freezing sometimes just days apart. It cracks the rubber binding the two metal components and then fills in the cracks next thaw, then refreezes and makes it bigger. Add dirt and it can go bad quickly.
This is where a grease fitting is handy. It doesn't stop it but creates a barrier of sorts that the water and dirt collect on. If it is lubed regularly, the freeze thaw acts on the grease rather than the binding components that make it work. When you relube it, it pushes the water and dirt back away constantly replacing the substrate that is being damaged in this way. About anything that has a dust boot over it tends to ho bad like this unless something stops the water from reaching the critical parts.
@@sumduma55 That was a very well thought out reply :-D, much better than my shallow basic one.
And my comment about his misses?, could she be blamed and ivan get away with it?
Just a joke :-D
@@zx8401ztv your post was fine. I just wanted to go into the details or mechanics of how it causes the damage. Sealed units are great as long as they remain sealed. Lubed unites are great as long as the remain greased.
the ball joint coulda somehow had gotten sliced before they sold it to Ivan and it just wasn't noticed
If US roads have as many "traffic calming" speed humps as the UK does Ivan then you'll know 2 years and 30k miles is about average. Since speed humps were introduced we've seen the number of ball joints, drop links and broken coil springs rise by a ridiculous amount. Vauxhall (GM) and Peugeot/Renault love a ball joint or spring and VW's love a drop link. I'm on my 3rd set of them on my Passat. Nothing is made to the quality it used to be anymore. Can you get Lemforder parts in the US? They are pricey but do seem to buck the crap quality most churn out.
Yes, agree with hard to find quality parts. I'm finding that just to save time picking up parts at dealer has become more frequent. Pay once cry once. Thanks for the video.
You are very lucky, because I changed the same part on a Nissan Xtrail, and the whole arm is changed, because the joint is not crimped inside, with total $ 730 of parts.
And my car had - 100,000 km.
At work we have some NV 200 made in Mexico, and a lot of problem past 3 years.
For me, Nissan would buy more.
The torn boot explains the failure? Potentially hit by road debris? Did the other one last?
That hole in the rubber does not look new. Might have damaged it when you changed the joint
Nah, looks like a classic fatigue split because of cheap rubber.
In my experience, Moog is junk now too. I've had ball joint come backs on those. OEM is the way to go. It's costly but you need only do it once.
Had the lower control arms on my Dodge go bad, my mechanic replaced them with Moogs. A year later the "regular" ball joints in them went bad again. He replaced the ball joints with Moog Problem Solvers and they've held up for several years now. I just add some grease when I'm under there changing the oil. Easy peasy.
Isn't that the side you had a hard time separating when you changed the transmission a well? Was wondering I if that attributed toward its early demise.
Nope. He did the tran in 2017. Ball joints in 2018
@@blitz8619 Yeah wasn't sure of the time or milage on that .I know somtimes when old parts get stubborn they get compromised in the process.
Agree Timken bearings both shot after 10000km on a 2000 corolla. Replaced with junkyard hub with bearing. Flawless for over 25000km. Get SKF or OEM when it comes to wheel bearings
That boot tear does look old. Is that the first or only 555 you've used?
I've seen thousands of miles on Sankei 555 ball joints without wear like this, I use them with just about any customer I can. Seem to last a long time, even on the double wishbone Accords. Had so many Moog joints go bad FAST, some within weeks. A lot of their control arm bushings are ridiculously bad.
Here in Puerto Rico, parts vendors always say "it's not original, but it's made in Japan it's the same or better." The first thing that occurs to me is to punch the guy in the mouth for saying that stupid thing
I just replaced upper control arms, outer tie rods and all ball joints on my Chevy at 225K with "Moog problem solvers." No issues with install so I hope they last as long as originals. I'll keep greasing and inspecting boots.
HI IVAN,since that part holds the wheels up right maybe if a factory part is available no matter what the cost ,i would buy that. Your wife is worth it ,and it's always cheaper that a ER room visit.Thanks for sharing.
I used to tell my wife she was hard on equipment. Keeping her car on the road kept me busy. I didn’t mind it so much. Even the occasional neighbors mailbox I had to fix for her.
lmao @ neighbors mailboxes
Ivan please check again. Side to side play on the wheel should indicate that the tie-rod ball joint is worn.
Put Moog lower ball joints in my Chevy Silverado 4x4 over 3 years ago so far still tight no complaints
Have to do the upper and lower ball joints on the 98 honda prelude. I have the ball joint puller kit . Have not used yet.
I remember watching a video you did about a timing belt and idler pulley replacement. Need to do the same to my camry. How do you make sure you do not get the chinese idler bearings ?.How can I tell what i`m getting when i mail order parts. I remember you went through this before.
IT'S A CRAP SHOOT, that being said " EVEN WHEN IT SAYS WHAT YOUR GETTING DOES NOT ALWAYS MEAN WHAT YOU RECEIVE ". DO A HELL OF A LOT OF HOMEWORK ( SEARCHING ON THE NET ) to try to get the best part & price you can. Then there's " FAKE PARTS TO DEAL WITH ALSO " LOOK LIKE FACTORY BOX & PART BUT WITH SUBTLE CHANGES, IT'S A PIA. Even dealer parts I have received were fake parts, UNREAL. GOOD LUCK BUT DO YOUR HOMEWORK IF POSSIBLE ? OH, One more thing try to buy " NEW PARTS " NOT RECONDITIONED ALSO. Sometimes I go to the U-PULL-IT to look for parts if I can't find anything that looks good.
@@NoWr2Run It is why I never buy so called name brand parts on eBay or Amazon.
I’ve noticed the rubber on some aftermarket suspension components not holding up. Must be using some inferior compound rubber.
So hard to find quality parts! I don't mind paying it they would have some kind of real promise of quality that you could trust! Glad Mrs Ivan will be safe on the road again.
Ball joints are a wear item, accelerated wear occurs if you keep the wheel pressed hard against the turn-stop as well. But some do just crap out prematurely as well, I wouldn't put much in it just because one of them went bad after a little while. We had NOx sensors at work OEM parts since we're the dealership, "new and improved" the manufacturer said, first batch only lasted 4 hours on one truck, 3 days on most of the rest. I'd be willing to put money on that the two ball joints have different batch numbers.
EDIT: Another thing is that it doesn't really matter where something was made any more, it's all predetermined when they spec out the part, price, profit margin, estimated lifetime etc, whoever and wherever it's made will then try as best they can to make a part exactly to the specs, and whoever can do that the cheapest gets to make the parts. Of course places with little experience in manufacturing will deliver shitty parts until they work out how to do it right.
Rubber anti sway bushing suspension parts replaced today will need replacement one year later as the replacement rubber compound used to manufacture the bushings deteriorate with exposure to air.
Outside of OEM parts, I stick with my MOOG all day long on all suspension parts and bolt on wheel Bearings. They are the best after market suspension parts in my opinion and have never failed me prematurely. Nice video and keep up the Great work.
Mines got recalls for failure
They were until they got bought out. They used plastic inside one of their lower ball joints which cracks after 12k miles. A RUclipsr cut open one of these and found plastic. The old moog parts used steel.
I wonder if everyone has complained about the grease fittings on moogs. Most the time I need to retread them
Yeah I had a really hard time putting in the grease fitting! eventually it went in, but there were no threads on the metal cap haha
I did a wheel bearing replacement last fall (unbolt the spindle and go to the mechanic to get it pressed out method) and the bearing hums at 105 km/h ever since (albeit not nearly as bad as the old one). I don't think I chose the best mechanic in the world but he didn't seem to damage the bearing so I called the parts store and they said that they would eat the part and get me a new one if it was defective. Thankfully though, my bearing never got hot or developed play over the winter and has slowly become quieter as it "broke in" I guess? Wheel bearings should never need to be broken in, but at least it didn't go bad and it's safe, that's all I care about.
I’ve been installing the ACDELCO professional series ball joints. They are very nicely made. Not their advantage line! It has to be the professional series with the blue boots.
Love your video explain very well compare to other youtube channel learned a lot from you thanks. I am tying to install a rpm tach on a 2002 Toyota sienna having trouble with the green wire where exactly to connect it, I was wondering you can help thanks.
I just ordered all 4 ball joints for my 2000 frontier. 2 uppers made in USA, one had a split boot out of the box had to exchange. 2 lowers are made in Mexico. Time will tell!
"NAPA" brand wheel bearing for a Nissan Frontier lasted about 10k miles, replaced with a MOOG, so far so good
I’ve seen someone that has moog lower ball joints in his 2010 Chevy Silverado and I checked them for play and they were bad and that was 2 summers ago and the guy still has them today on his truck..yes I know it’s a safety issue..it’s not my truck and have tried countless times to get him to replace them but he likes changing tires frequently lol the moog ball joints were made in the USA
They have to be REALLY worn on a pickup like that before they fall apart. I just changed them on my 2000 Expedition with 140,000 miles on it. The boots were all cracked and the grease mostly gone, but I could barely feel any play in the joints themselves. Bet they don't make them like that anymore. I'm an old guy retired in a small town, and don't commute anymore, so I doubt I'll ever wear out the cheap Chinese ones I put in.
Sweet video. Best wishes ivan to you and family stay healthy
You may want to recheck the right side for torn boots on the ball-joint. The fact that the boot torn in such a short time indicates poor quality and therefore letting the grease out and dirt going in, wearing the joint prematurely.
Hey Ivan, what do you have as a lift there? I need a solution I could use what is not thaaaat expensive. It's for our second side of the garage if I can't get to our normal lift.
Harbor Freight floor jacks and jack stands FTW 😁
I made the same decision, the “altrom” sankei 555 only come with 1 year warranty, but if you got the Napa Canada boxed made in Japan joints they would have had lifetime. The ac delco boxed lbj for my application sbh072 8th gen i4 accord are also sankei 555 inside box and they have lifetime warranty
From Japan to Mexico, let's see what happens. Thanks Ivan!
I think its just down to the Nearside takes more punishment from kerbs and pot holes... Proberly more than you realize...
You're forgetting, Ivan is in America...
Ivan there is no such thing as Quality Parts or anything in this world anymore everything is just cheap cheap cheap
Even I'm being a mechanic I use a lot of aftermarket parts and I never had an issue so I don't know why people think about oem part
@@garyhardman8369 lol..yeah i forgot about that...
6:18 you thought about it and it straitened up? now that's the power of the mind.
That's funny. I recently did ball joints on my Sable. Both lower maybe Aug or Sept of 2019. Both of mine were Moog. 1 is still good, the other is bad already, on the passenger side. Unbelievable! So I don't know how long Moog will last either or maybe I got a bad one. Both were tight out of the box. .. 😕😔
Ivan, did you replace both sides with Moog? I like Moog, just did all ball joints in my F250.
No, just the loose one. Will be interesting to see if it outlasts the other "555" one lol
Counterfeit ball joints, made in China not Japan
I bought 2014 Infiniti qx50. Made in Japan. IMHO many parts are cheaply made in this car. Rust on undercarriage abounds. Unlike the older high mileage Hondas which I still happily own. And btw the Infiniti QX50 line is now being made in Mexico.
Btw. Side to side movement is a tie rod issue. Top to bottom movement is ball joint….
Did the 2 year old ball join have a grease zert ? Did not see one ?
Wyr
God bless
Nope, "greased for life" lol. Original ones didn't have one either.
The only worthwhile good ball joint made in Japan that you should get in the 'Sankei 555' brand. I've never heard of this 'NAPA 555' before...
i steer clear of nissans and mazdas these days, Renault. it is disappointing though failing parts
closertothetruth nothing wrong with Mazda. Probably better than Lexus/Toyota now. Definitely better than Honda/Acura. Tell me what Mazda vehicle made in the last 10 years is actually bad. I can’t think of any 🤷♂️
@@youngb1ood are you a mechanic, man you should watch the crash test vids for one, cutting costs
closertothetruth ruclips.net/video/sStGn0A67kQ/видео.html
@@youngb1ood not too bad, seen worse , here in Australia they were good and still are ok but since the renault 50% take over the quality has declined just as with nissan and renault man nissan were good now theyre shit i hate working on them, like so many brands since the GFC , its annoying really,
Are you sure that's not a French part? Re-oh-no! My old Corolla would go through ball joints and stuff like that. Too, maybe they have smoother roads.
Of course it's French like whole Nissan. It doesn't only matter where it was made, what meters who designed it. I have a Toyota from Turkey and it is completely trouble-free. No even one part replaced in suspension in 10 years. I prefer the Turkish Toyota than the "Japanese" Nissan...The French bought Nissan so that the Americans would start buying French cars ... it worked.
made in japan with chinese parts
MOOG name is no guarantee. I ordered upper and lower MOOG joints for my SUV. I got 2 from China and 2 from Poland. The Chinese ones had totally different castings and boots. They were rough and primitive compared to the Polish-made ones.
I don't know about auto parts, but the Poles make great machine tools. Check out the lathe chuck on the abom79 RUclips channel. That lathe chuck is a work of art.
What would recommend for a 15 rogue w 45kmiles Castrol >or Penzoil Cvt oil. I'm unhappy with anything OEM in my car. Or should I get nissan ns3.
Hi Julia, OEM Nissan fluid ONLY in the CVT! Personally I wouldn't touch it until 60k miles :)
Lately I've been having really good luck with the Duralast Gold line at AutoZone. Sadly, they only have a small selection in that line.
Did you ever gwt the core charge back for that old transmission for that thing?
I get chastised for it often but this is why I like to stick with OEM parts, the after market scene is very sketchy at best. I've heard after market electrical parts are the worst.
Yeah when it comes to electrical, OEM only, or at least name brand like Denso, NGK, etc.
Those Nissan Rouge's and such keep me working. Those front ball joints go bad all the time!
Ivan dont forget nissan are a French company owned by renault,the ball joints may be a renault design made in Japan .
A boot that was cut by road debris was most likely be responsible for the rapid deterioration of the ball, which appeared to be rusted, NOT the other way around. . Makes me wonder how closely that joint was inspected by the mechanic who does the annual maintenance of that vehicle.That level of damage doesn't happen overnight without symptoms.
looks like chinesium rubber that dry-rotted out and split apart in short order, they "all" do that now, it's no surprise as to why, they want to sell new wreck-heap cars ;)
Boot appeared split, not cut...
no grease fittings?
Are the Moog parts lifetime warranty where you guys live?
Wow, Japan ball joint fail? Damn, I've bought moog parts for my vehicles, it lasts pretty long time. It's nice to see the record of the history of the work done on paper. I do as well. I put it on excel, put my receipts in my binder divided by Walmart, autozone, napa, etc. Even my emissions paper. Im particular like that too
I'm noticing this with lots of replacement parts, not just those related to automobiles. Gone are the days when we could count on a lifespan equal to the original part. Most concerning is the fact that a failing part can lead to a chain reaction of other failures, and the costs can quickly add up. I certainly hope this trend changes for the better, and soon!
I would say still aftermarket? Or was it from main diller?
Beware of cheap Chinese counterfeit parts! Even the big auto parts stores have carried them...The best Suspension parts in my opinion are MOOG and Mevotech Supreme
Disappointing Japanese parts. I had Moog parts fail prematurely as well and switched to Mevotech. We'll see how long those last and it's been 18 months now.
I got the same impact gun from rock auto works pretty good lots of torque batteries 🔋 hold charge for a long time
Yeah I used mine for like a month on one charge haha
The fact that the other one is sound leads me to guess that one wheel got the most abuse. Potholes are notorious for doing ball joints in and some can be pretty deep for maximum damage. Gotta see the whole picture to evaluate the situation. Repair the roads and that's my rant for this evening.
But what about the torn boot? That looked like poor quality rubber to me :)
What are folks thought on pre-grease ball joints vs non?
Superficially the pre-greased look better and should last longer over the opposing. I'd imagine a company standing by a product wouldn't put any variable in control of the public, such as grease.
The Moog may be a Sankei 555, which is what the Altrom from napa appears to be. Of course the Moog can be another brand also, or even Moog. You never know what you are buying anymore until you see the actual part.
lol ivan why didn't you show the "improvisation" ?
That's why God always uses OEM parts...
Nowadays everything is low of lubricants. Always fill them up with good greese and they will last much much more
I’m really suspicious of the 555 brand. It sounds like a Vietnamese counterfeit as many products from Vietnam are 555. The number is commonly used there as it’s a “lucky” number.
Whole southeast asia's most trusted brand, beware of fakes. We are using it for almost 30 years no problems at all but make sure to change it after 10 years of usage or whenever necessary. Trust me i've been to their factory in japan