great radio. There has been a few revisions of the gt3c, but, with the PSX Firmware hack it unlocked alot of features including 8 channels and custom mixing.
if you revering to the 0.6.2 firmware hack. have a look carefully when you turn right vs left, i found my one direction is like 2x faster than the other as if it has a major expo curve, i reverted back to Stock firmware after many attempts to fix. look closely.
Totally awesome video. This is a big help to guys that want to keep budget friendly RC drift build at a minimal. Me personally I don’t mind the remote. I keep it simple. I feel bad for guys that over tune their drift cars. Yeah when you pay for high end items of course it improve some performance but also the convenience to easily tune the car. Like I said meat and potatoes no sides - just apply the K.I.S.S (Keep It Smart & Simple)theory. Straight to the point. Troy totally 💯 a great video.
Some guys overbuild because of what they see on RUclips and it becomes a case of FOMO. This is why when it comes to drift, I will question people asking them what their end goal is for the car. If they’re just gonna bash around or their budget is very limited, then I won’t suggest high end parts and keep the costs as far down as I can. But if their goal is to build a competitive car, capable of taking on local competitions, only then will I suggest better parts with performance in mind, though I will always caution them that they need a very open budget since those shiny upgrades do cost serious money. In the end, your own motivation towards competition is what determines what kind of build you have. Bashing? Build with whatever you have the means to. If you’re more serious, then you should build with more focused performance and adjustability in mind. But I’ve been drifting for two years and my most recent build is way more than any driveway basher would ever need since it was always intended to be built as a competition chassis.
@@RoadsideRC great question. I honestly think majority are garage drifters like me. I don’t compete but do enjoy the luxury & atmosphere of other tracks. That’s why I miss my time on the different tracks when I was stationed in Japan 🇯🇵 truly the rc drift Mecca there. Best track I ever drifted on was the 1 inside the USAF base inside a F16 hangar, big, great floor to drift on and tons of people attending. I’m just very blessed to have a large 6car garage with a very highly polished concrete to drift on with my son, his friends and a couple of my close friends. We just used Super G format but added more short turns to the design of the track. Nothing fancy just tape on the floor.
Thank you for sharing! I have one with the grey color scheme. I did the firmware "update", super easy, I didn't even solder anything to the board of the controller. I highly recommend it, you can program almost every button to do something different. That part where you were turning off the gyro can be programmed on the button that's on the grip, on and off. I'm currently using it for my Tamiya Juggernaut, which has custom behind the axle steering servos. I programmed it to do 4WS, FWS, RWS, and Crab steering. I'm thinking of buying another one for my Tamiya Clodbuster. I'd go with the black color scheme this time. 😊
if you revering to the 0.6.2 firmware hack. have a look carefully when you turn right vs left, i found my one direction is like 2x faster than the other as if it has a major expo curve, i reverted back to Stock firmware after many attempts to fix. look closely.
Nice to see this includes a rechargeable battery. My GT5 and G7p both eat batteries so the small LiPo was a must-buy for them. I first used my G7P and endpoints for drift. My steering was glitching bad at the first mini comp I attended at my local track. I'm on a 4PM now but got in on the Black Friday deal last week on the Futaba USA site. Did you take advantage of that at all? 10px here I come! I also do the weekly club races with my 2wd buggy, and hopefully soon a stadium truck or wheeler 😁. The features, ergos, and general feel of the premium radios is definitely noticeable but definitely not necessary for most people. One of the local guys is winning races with his 3PV so you can with anything if the protocol works at the space
Yes! It is just different controllers to match the need and the budget level. Will I swap my Noble, 4PM, or other for this GT3C...??? Nope! But it will.be great for folks just starting and sticking to a budget!
I'm looking for a good tx for crawling . Mainly for MOA and more comp style crawlers . I have DX5 pro and radiolink 6ch . I'm wondering about MT12 . I had my mind set on the new radiolink til that came out . IDK . I have several radios that would work i just need to learn programming . 2 esc and 2 motor . I get confused easy LOL. Always watching . Thanks for all the content . Hope you have a great holiday season .
Hi there! If you don't like the programming side of it, then the MT12 is probably not for you. The easiest controllers I have seen to setup 4WS, MOA, etc are the Flysky Noble and the Radiolink RC8X.
Wanted to say Thank you again! Got a 2nd one and both cars running well, it was a setting I messed with trying to adjust, went back to nuetral lol Thank You again for all the help!@@RoadsideRC
Have you ever tested out the gyro built into some of the FS receivers? Ive veen using one in my SCT and find its good for better stability and control on my 2x4
Yes I have! They are designed for exactly how you are using them. They are NOT designed for drifting. They are better than zero gyro, but 100% do not recommend them for a drift car.
Hi I have 2 radio model GT3 Cs , I have had interference problems with some digital servo but cheap ( very economic 20/30 €uro in the past ) Now I paired both with servo and gyro AFRC and work great important made a good setting and find the right % Dumborc is good also
I had nothing but problems with my gt3cs. Had two of them, both had weird interference issues resulting in poor range and even runaways. I also was never able to figure out the CH3 gain control for gyros and the latency on them is really bad. Moved onto a 3pv then a 4pm and now a 10px. No regrets with futaba. That being said not everyone wants or needs to drop the coin for Futaba, in that case I recommend the DumboRC DDF-350
Agree 100%! Most folks ask me questions about cheaper controllers - not 10px. Are there better radios for drifting? Of course. But for the price, this is hard to beat.
Great vid, Troy! I use the FS GT3-C with my Sakura D5 MR. I adjust my Gyro gain in the D/R section and you adjusted yours in the Endpoint section. Is that just a difference in gyros etc? I’m running the OMG V4.
I’ve just been messing around with my GT3-C.The gyro gain can indeed be adjusted in the Endpoint AND the D/R sections. This begs the questions, does one override the other? Regardless of where one was set, turning the other to zero, turned off the gyro. So my somewhat educated guess is, whichever is set lower is what the gyro gain is. Now I have them set the same(70%). Works for me👌🙂
the main problem of this controller is interference and pretty low distance of working. A have one, it has all you need for starter but when TWO of them on one spot - it can glitch a little. But you can actually set different channel inside of a bandwith. To make it - just power OFF, steer left or right (hold) and press ON - it will change a freq.
Hi, great video. Tell me please, if the throttle trim ( via the buttons on the housing, near the screen ) are capable of limiting the speed/power of the motor anywhere between, say 10 and 100 %. Namely, I've just bought 2 pcs of MJX 14210 and it's like a raging bull. Actually it's got a 70 % switch on the transmitter but on 3S ( which I bought to play longer :) ) is still crazy fast, so I'm thinking to buy a GT3B or C & GR3E to slow things down to a rookie level :), also will the gr3e run on 3s in the car? Thanks in advance
Thanks, that was quick 👍. It's a shame, thought would be cool to be able to ''throttle down '' to say, 50 % in the field by top th-trim buttons without having to programm the EPA ... but anyways, I'm happy that limiting option is there, while those MJX-es 14210 are really crazy uncontrollable even at 70 % transmitter setting. Interesting thing is that WLToys 124017 ( version 2 ) got this function on the V8 transmitter buttons - you can limit the throttle power anywhere between 0 and 100 % via the th-trim, whille for the MJX ( version 2 ) th-trim only does a kind of balance between forward - brake - reverse trigger position - no effect on throttle power. just thinking what to go with, GT3B or C ? Wonder how much juice is in the single 800 mAh battery for GT3C ? while seems clumsy to charge 8x AA....for the B version🙄
I've got a question. I have the same radio, but my gyro is only manually adjustable. Is there any way of being able to toggle the gyro on and off via ch3? thanks in advance.
When I tried reversing the channel on the 3PV, it didn't seem to work. Which was odd. For the MT12, there is an ELRS and a 4in1. ELRS is the super low latency, long-range version. The 4in1 supposedly connects to EVERYTHING. For most folks, it is smarter to get the 4in1.
@RoadsideRC I'm seeing online that this servo may be the same as the ReveD but comes with the program module with it for around $70, have you heard of this one? AGFRC 19KG Low-Profile High-Torque Programmable-Digital-Servo - Full Metal Gear CNC Case Brushless Servo for 1/10 RC Models
@@percivale6511 Hello. I have tested that servo as well. The programmer it came with didn't connect properly. It works well. It is not the same as the ReveD. The ReveD performance is still better.
that's a very complicated way to way to try the gyro in the other direction. see when you are setting the end point and it only goes to 0... see the arrow on the screen? if you move the trigger or the wheel, the arrow will change direction and allow you to set it. a far eaiser way would be to push the ch3 button then uses the scroll wheel as that changes the channel rather than endpoints..
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Thanks,Troy, in general. Love your content even when it isn't directed at my level, I still love the info.
I appreciate that! Very kind of you!
great radio. There has been a few revisions of the gt3c, but, with the PSX Firmware hack it unlocked alot of features including 8 channels and custom mixing.
It really is quite good for the $$!
Thanks for the tip!
if you revering to the 0.6.2 firmware hack. have a look carefully when you turn right vs left, i found my one direction is like 2x faster than the other as if it has a major expo curve, i reverted back to Stock firmware after many attempts to fix. look closely.
Also love that you test and try out budget stuff. So hard to find good opinions on those options.
Thank you!
Totally awesome video. This is a big help to guys that want to keep budget friendly RC drift build at a minimal. Me personally I don’t mind the remote. I keep it simple. I feel bad for guys that over tune their drift cars. Yeah when you pay for high end items of course it improve some performance but also the convenience to easily tune the car. Like I said meat and potatoes no sides - just apply the K.I.S.S (Keep It Smart & Simple)theory. Straight to the point. Troy totally 💯 a great video.
Some guys overbuild because of what they see on RUclips and it becomes a case of FOMO.
This is why when it comes to drift, I will question people asking them what their end goal is for the car. If they’re just gonna bash around or their budget is very limited, then I won’t suggest high end parts and keep the costs as far down as I can.
But if their goal is to build a competitive car, capable of taking on local competitions, only then will I suggest better parts with performance in mind, though I will always caution them that they need a very open budget since those shiny upgrades do cost serious money.
In the end, your own motivation towards competition is what determines what kind of build you have. Bashing? Build with whatever you have the means to. If you’re more serious, then you should build with more focused performance and adjustability in mind.
But I’ve been drifting for two years and my most recent build is way more than any driveway basher would ever need since it was always intended to be built as a competition chassis.
I really wonder what percentage of rc drift folks ever compete? What percentage even go to a track?
@@RoadsideRC great question. I honestly think majority are garage drifters like me. I don’t compete but do enjoy the luxury & atmosphere of other tracks. That’s why I miss my time on the different tracks when I was stationed in Japan 🇯🇵 truly the rc drift Mecca there. Best track I ever drifted on was the 1 inside the USAF base inside a F16 hangar, big, great floor to drift on and tons of people attending. I’m just very blessed to have a large 6car garage with a very highly polished concrete to drift on with my son, his friends and a couple of my close friends. We just used Super G format but added more short turns to the design of the track. Nothing fancy just tape on the floor.
Thank you for sharing! I have one with the grey color scheme. I did the firmware "update", super easy, I didn't even solder anything to the board of the controller. I highly recommend it, you can program almost every button to do something different. That part where you were turning off the gyro can be programmed on the button that's on the grip, on and off. I'm currently using it for my Tamiya Juggernaut, which has custom behind the axle steering servos. I programmed it to do 4WS, FWS, RWS, and Crab steering. I'm thinking of buying another one for my Tamiya Clodbuster. I'd go with the black color scheme this time. 😊
Awesome! Good tip!
if you revering to the 0.6.2 firmware hack. have a look carefully when you turn right vs left, i found my one direction is like 2x faster than the other as if it has a major expo curve, i reverted back to Stock firmware after many attempts to fix. look closely.
@@ShaunnStrydom thanks for sharing. I have no issue with mine. Did you do a calibration on yours?
i flashed my gt3c with the aftermarket firmware. It's a beast of an 8 channel radio
I always get nervous doing stuff like that!
Nice to see this includes a rechargeable battery. My GT5 and G7p both eat batteries so the small LiPo was a must-buy for them. I first used my G7P and endpoints for drift. My steering was glitching bad at the first mini comp I attended at my local track. I'm on a 4PM now but got in on the Black Friday deal last week on the Futaba USA site. Did you take advantage of that at all? 10px here I come! I also do the weekly club races with my 2wd buggy, and hopefully soon a stadium truck or wheeler 😁. The features, ergos, and general feel of the premium radios is definitely noticeable but definitely not necessary for most people. One of the local guys is winning races with his 3PV so you can with anything if the protocol works at the space
Yes! It is just different controllers to match the need and the budget level.
Will I swap my Noble, 4PM, or other for this GT3C...??? Nope! But it will.be great for folks just starting and sticking to a budget!
I'm looking for a good tx for crawling . Mainly for MOA and more comp style crawlers . I have DX5 pro and radiolink 6ch . I'm wondering about MT12 . I had my mind set on the new radiolink til that came out . IDK . I have several radios that would work i just need to learn programming . 2 esc and 2 motor . I get confused easy LOL. Always watching . Thanks for all the content . Hope you have a great holiday season .
Hi there!
If you don't like the programming side of it, then the MT12 is probably not for you.
The easiest controllers I have seen to setup 4WS, MOA, etc are the Flysky Noble and the Radiolink RC8X.
Awesome!! Now I can see what I have wrong with mine!! Thank You!!!
Glad this helped! What had you tripped up?
I keep messing with the settings and messing it up, this will give me a ln idea of where to start 😂
Wanted to say Thank you again! Got a 2nd one and both cars running well, it was a setting I messed with trying to adjust, went back to nuetral lol
Thank You again for all the help!@@RoadsideRC
@@Bluespade115 Awesome! Glad to help!
Latency is noticable too coming from sanwa or futaba
Yeah - certainly not onnthe same level as those radios.
Have you ever tested out the gyro built into some of the FS receivers? Ive veen using one in my SCT and find its good for better stability and control on my 2x4
Yes I have!
They are designed for exactly how you are using them. They are NOT designed for drifting.
They are better than zero gyro, but 100% do not recommend them for a drift car.
Hi I have 2 radio model GT3 Cs , I have had interference problems with some digital servo but cheap ( very economic 20/30 €uro in the past )
Now I paired both with servo and gyro AFRC and work great important made a good setting and find the right %
Dumborc is good also
Thank you for the feedback! Glad it is working well for you.
I had nothing but problems with my gt3cs. Had two of them, both had weird interference issues resulting in poor range and even runaways. I also was never able to figure out the CH3 gain control for gyros and the latency on them is really bad. Moved onto a 3pv then a 4pm and now a 10px. No regrets with futaba.
That being said not everyone wants or needs to drop the coin for Futaba, in that case I recommend the DumboRC DDF-350
Agree 100%! Most folks ask me questions about cheaper controllers - not 10px.
Are there better radios for drifting? Of course. But for the price, this is hard to beat.
Great vid, Troy! I use the FS GT3-C with my Sakura D5 MR. I adjust my Gyro gain in the D/R section and you adjusted yours in the Endpoint section. Is that just a difference in gyros etc? I’m running the OMG V4.
Good question! It might do the same thing at the end of the day. Try it at the end points and see what happens.
I’ve just been messing around with my GT3-C.The gyro gain can indeed be adjusted in the Endpoint AND the D/R sections. This begs the questions, does one override the other? Regardless of where one was set, turning the other to zero, turned off the gyro. So my somewhat educated guess is, whichever is set lower is what the gyro gain is.
Now I have them set the same(70%). Works for me👌🙂
@@ondooga Interesting! Thanks for testing it!
U still use the last generation for my hand off car lol dose what it need to but the rechargeable battery nice
Yes! The rechargeable battery is great.
cool tutorial for setting this up Troy
*🥸full view always 💯👀Au 👍thumbs up👍🎅*
Thanks Billy!
the main problem of this controller is interference and pretty low distance of working. A have one, it has all you need for starter but when TWO of them on one spot - it can glitch a little. But you can actually set different channel inside of a bandwith. To make it - just power OFF, steer left or right (hold) and press ON - it will change a freq.
Thanks for the tip!
I have not had any issues like you describe, but glad to know there is a fix!
nice vedio
i have mst 2.5 stock servo stock gyro also same remote flysky , van use ch3 for gyro gain ?
Yes you can!
@@RoadsideRC so gain control from remot not from gyro it self?
@@sharkjoo6470 Yes. Just as I show in this video.
Hi, great video. Tell me please, if the throttle trim ( via the buttons on the housing, near the screen ) are capable of limiting the speed/power of the motor anywhere between, say 10 and 100 %. Namely, I've just bought 2 pcs of MJX 14210 and it's like a raging bull. Actually it's got a 70 % switch on the transmitter but on 3S ( which I bought to play longer :) ) is still crazy fast, so I'm thinking to buy a GT3B or C & GR3E to slow things down to a rookie level :), also will the gr3e run on 3s in the car? Thanks in advance
Hello - throttle trim will NOT do what you want. You want the throttle EPA = end point. That will limit the total amount of throttle.
Thanks, that was quick 👍. It's a shame, thought would be cool to be able to ''throttle down '' to say, 50 % in the field by top th-trim buttons without having to programm the EPA ... but anyways, I'm happy that limiting option is there, while those MJX-es 14210 are really crazy uncontrollable even at 70 % transmitter setting. Interesting thing is that WLToys 124017 ( version 2 ) got this function on the V8 transmitter buttons - you can limit the throttle power anywhere between 0 and 100 % via the th-trim, whille for the MJX ( version 2 ) th-trim only does a kind of balance between forward - brake - reverse trigger position - no effect on throttle power.
just thinking what to go with, GT3B or C ? Wonder how much juice is in the single 800 mAh battery for GT3C ? while seems clumsy to charge 8x AA....for the B version🙄
... and if you'd be so kind, what would be the D/R dual rate setting ?
What can you suggest for a great budget transmitter for drifting that's under $100? Thank you!
I would suggest this - it has been great for me:
ruclips.net/video/qMV3FuKmgK8/видео.html
@@RoadsideRC Thank you
@@RoadsideRC Compared to Flysky GT5, which is better?
@@gairusniellegaspi3551 100% the DDF-350. I have had mixed results with the GT5.
what is the effect of dual rates and exponential to Plug in gyro in receiver?
That is how you control the overall gyro gain. Very helpful!
I've got a question. I have the same radio, but my gyro is only manually adjustable. Is there any way of being able to toggle the gyro on and off via ch3? thanks in advance.
If your gyro is not adjustable via an auxiliary channel, then no - there will not be a way to turn it on/off.
Not into drifting but how is it for crawling?
It would do well, depending on what all you want to run. Not as good for 4-wheels steer, etc. But for most basic crawling situations, would do great.
Does the REV. mode work for the Futaba 3PV as well? Also the radiomaster MT12 has two options to buy, what are the differences in the 2 options?
When I tried reversing the channel on the 3PV, it didn't seem to work. Which was odd.
For the MT12, there is an ELRS and a 4in1.
ELRS is the super low latency, long-range version.
The 4in1 supposedly connects to EVERYTHING.
For most folks, it is smarter to get the 4in1.
@RoadsideRC Troy, I really appreciate the response! Super good to know that! TY for the information my friend!
@RoadsideRC I'm seeing online that this servo may be the same as the ReveD but comes with the program module with it for around $70, have you heard of this one? AGFRC 19KG Low-Profile High-Torque Programmable-Digital-Servo - Full Metal Gear CNC Case Brushless Servo for 1/10 RC Models
@@percivale6511 Hello. I have tested that servo as well.
The programmer it came with didn't connect properly. It works well. It is not the same as the ReveD. The ReveD performance is still better.
@@RoadsideRC good to know, TY again man
Is a flysky fs-g7p good for racing?
For racing specifically, most folks shy away from Flysky unless it is the Noble. You will mostly see Futaba and Sanwa at competitive racetracks
@RoadsideRC Thanks I'm upgrading from a tqi and I can't afford those yet
What if there's NO throttle or reverse? I also tried setting up throttle on esc but it will not go through the calibration steps (no green light).
Check everything is plugged in correctly. It means the ESC is not seeing a signal.
I assume your steering is still working?
@@RoadsideRC I have servo ch1,esc ch2 and gyro ch3. An yes the steering is working fine.
that's a very complicated way to way to try the gyro in the other direction. see when you are setting the end point and it only goes to 0... see the arrow on the screen? if you move the trigger or the wheel, the arrow will change direction and allow you to set it. a far eaiser way would be to push the ch3 button then uses the scroll wheel as that changes the channel rather than endpoints..
Thanks for the tip!
forgot to mention too... the FS gt3c also has a ch3 trim slider... it's very usefull for this too... great video keep em comming