Hey CLKINDRED, I just wanted to tell you that this DIY was really good and detailed. I noticed that a lot of people had some of the same questions that I did when I finally got around to gathering the parts to built your torch. I like others was looking for all the parts and couldn't find the apple corer and the face bushing. So heres what I did and maybe it will help others. As for the apple corer, it has been discontinued from walmart so I looked in virtually every other store but couldn't find it. After racking my brain I measured my wifes, which looked identical to yours but was a Pampered Chef and she threatened to kill me if I took it...lol, and it measured 7/8" ID. I was walking through Lowes and happened to look over and see some small outdoor solar lamps for walkways. After buying it for $7.00, I took it home, popped off the lamp and the ground spike and found it to be perfect match. The tube is just a little longer which I used a pipe cutter to get it the lenthg I wanted. As for the face bushing, I bought a Brass Pipe Reducer Coupling 1/2" FIP x 3/8" FIP, put it into my lathe and milled the 1/2" side down to a perfect 7/8". Its snug but just to keep it from falling out, after assembling the inside components, I slid it into the tube and used a micrometer to get the perfect depth, then drilled and tapped a hole to place a small stainless steel screw. It all fits together perfect and keeps the combustion holes from sliding into the tube and the insides from sliding out of the tube. BTW, I found that a 3/8" x 3" long brass pipe was the perfect length. To all, I'm sorry for the length but I hope it helps everyone who is building this cool torch. Thanks again.
+Jeff Allen Hey Jeff, I drilled a .016 hole in the plug. I'm not gonna lie, it was a pain in the butt. First off the bit was so small that I had bent about 3. how it worked for me was I put the bit all the way up in the chuck only letting an eigth exposed. Secondly, I didnt use oil on the final and successful one. The first hole I drilled in the first plug was .0625. But I found that it came out to be a very nice tiki torch flame but not good for foundry use. The smaller the hole, the more of a focused diamond flame tip... which is what you need and want. I hope this helps
Thanks you my friend. I am just getting the parts together to build one of these. I need a laminar torch for some scientific glass blowing and then casting aluminum. Thank you.
This is incredible I wish youtube had much more of this type of thing. It amazed me how complex a butane/propane torch flame is compared to a simple yellow flame.
thanks for sending me this link!!!! It's exactly what I am looking for the upgrade my forge!!!! I'll send you a pic and/or video of the finished product. thanks Again!!!!
nice build , also remove the sintered bronze slug to increase flow even more , its inside the insert the sticks down into the tank when you screw it together
Your videos rock! I was scared of trying to make one for a foundry I'm making.. but I think I'll try it now since I've seen these! Thanks! I'm trying to use one of those grill propane tanks for my foundry. You should make a video if you ever get to it someday!
Excellent video but I have one question when you press the screen and strainer into the tube how do you keep it secure in place without it coming back out or going down in further?
Orifice size. He talks about it in another video called “Stove Construction pt3”. The size is .016”. That’s a micro drill size and seems like a delicate task. Look on Amazon. Good luck 🍀
wow ! Well made and done ! How can I get a much longer flame thrown from a standard gas cylinder blow torch ?? I would have to modify the nozzles etc 🤔
I started customizing mine last night and whatever i made got way way to hot and whistled like a whistling pete and the flame is invisble up to 50% . Above 50% power its still hard to see. But in 3 seconds the burner was already too hot to touch and smoking. 30 secongs the stainless tip that is almost 1/4 thick walls was glowing red. After using it for a couple minutes it was getting unsafely hot and started welding the brass fittings to eachother.
Nice video ! Quick suggestion-- use a fine pipe screen from a local tobacco shop. This will add a little more pressure and enhance the flame...........
Without having to mess around with looking for an apple corer what is the interior diameter of that tubing so I can just go find that dimension from a metal supplier.
Also... Couldn't I just resize the orifice hole to a bigger size on the original plumbing? Or would that plumbing size not suffice to that modification?
Bro I dig ya. Your kinda the man. I find your approaches and explanations very relaxed and easy to follow. For now just two questions for you man. 1) true the blow torch's are commonly found but I don't know about the one you use for the bigger rebuild. What kind is it cause sure as shit isn't your typical Home Depot bernzomatic.
All i can say is... WOW! Your torch is very,very impressive to say the least! One would never think that it was homemade by the looks and operation of it. Your ingenuity and creativity are at levels that are way above the normal thinkers. You have a gift, man! Thanks for sharing!!!
I'm only 7 mins in and i dont know if i can take anymore of the pausing on one step and just being in awe of the results like it's the second coming of Christ.
CLKindred: The orifice's on the new BernzOmatic torches appear not to be removable? The nose of the orifice is cone shaped which renders the brass tube un-usable? Any suggestions? I have 3: 2 are over 2 years old and they are ll the same. Ed..
+Derpbag Gaming Not my build, but from watching the video, the brass pipe appears to be 1-inch shorter than the stainless steel tube as that is how far he pushed the screens down until they butted up against the brass pipe.
clkindred , I've been to every hardware store and hobby shop to find a .016" drill bit (FYI #78) but the smallest I could find is #60 (which is .040") so I drilled the orifice and installed.... I'm getting a billowing yellow/orange flame rather than the concentrated blue flame associated with a "torch". Is this because the orifice is still too large?
yep, I noticed that even .024 (#73) is too large for a burner this size. You may have to design your burner around your .040 orifice. Another option is to drill a large hole in the brass plug, 1/8" - 5/32" or so, and fill in the hole with soft electrical solder and then pierce the solder with a pin. I have used this method to make orifices smaller than .016 for my camping stoves, but it takes trial and error to get the right size, and re-doing the orifice every time is a pain. Another option still is to pack into the oversize hole a dab of epoxy putty, while it's still soft pierce the orifice and let cure.
You can get a Pin Vise Set off ebay for around $7.19. It has a No.78 drill bit in the set. Check out eBay item number: 291010109735 Good luck with it. Keith.
This thing is, awesome. gives me ideas for a wok burner. if you have any ideas for a good wok burner let me know. ( I REALLY like the door knob burner)
haggard184 Most wok burners I have seen use multiple small burners (like 20 small blowtorch sized burners) or a large "banjo" style burner. I think three or four door knob burners plumbed together would be a good middle ground between the two designs.
Lee Cosner I sure hope it can, cause that's why I built mine! Also, the Apple Corer I used is the Fox Run Stainless Steel Apple Corer, and if you google search it it's widely available. It's about 5" long
Sir, the logic you demonstrate throughout all of your videos is very impressive and commendable. QUESTION: How do you arrive at the most efficiently burning design with respect to the "DIFFUSOR" (sink parts)? Is there a "golden ratio" that exists that I'm not aware of? My ignorance prevents me from understanding what exactly is achieved by diffusing the flame WITHIN THE TUBE before it exits the end. (If my my question has already been addressed, please forgive me for not having the time to read all of the comments.)
+TexasLONGRIFLE First I'll go over what the sink parts do. The drain strainer with the large holes in it, makes the "flame anchor" when placed into the fuel/air stream it creates low pressure zone just past it. Think of water in a river flowing around a bridge support, as the water goes around and past the support it creates eddy currents on the downstream side. This is needed to anchor the flame or it will be pushed outside the burner and blow itself out. The screen is just to prevent the flame from flashing back towards the orifice at low gas pressure, it's kind of complicated how a screen blocks passage of a flame, but it has a lot to do with sucking the heat out of the flame. As for a golden ratio, I'm not sure. For the flame anchor to work it seems to need about a 20-30% ratio of web (stuff in between the holes) to 80-70% holes. As far as the size of the holes, they all seem to work, but I noticed the larger the holes, the louder the burner.
Is there a reason for all the bends or is it more fo being compact? Also im using a 3/4 copper pipe and a .025 mig tip. The 3/16 air vents seem to not allow enough air. Any suggestions to an air vent size for the .025 orifice? Also i have it rigged up to my bbq 5 gallon tank
The bends are just to move the start of the burner back for compactness, yes. My orifice in .016 inch, an orifice of .025 is about 1.56 times bigger in area. A 19/64 inch bit would make a hole very close to 1.56 times bigger than your 3/16 inch holes. Or a 5/16 inch bit if you don't have 19/64 bit. You could also try more holes in the current size. Just be aware that .016 was the LARGEST orifice I could get to work with a burner this size. Anything larger required a larger overall burner. Larger orifice means more fuel gas, witch requires more combustion air, witch requires a larger and longer burner tube to let it all through at the correct velocity and pressure.
Thank you so much the mystery was solved. Even though the reducer hole measures the 3/8 it takes the 1/8 pipe threading tap with a 27 TPI. The funniest thing is I went to Home Depot for a 1/8 square stopper ( with no shoulder) n it didn't fit after tapping it out, then I went to a plumbing supply store n bought another 1/8 square stopper n it fit perfectly. The only other question I have is the orifice u said a .016 hole, I have a 1/64 bit which is .01562 so do you mean get a 1/64 bit?
I recently tried your suggestions with a older Bernzomatic torch. There was an issue with matching up the threading of the torch and the brass fittings you specified. Do you know the thread type on the Bernzomatic. Also, the orifice was was not removable, but built into the bent tube, on the end.
+BlackHeliCrowd If the torch is designed differently than the ones I use, then I don't know what thread type it has. Was it close to fitting? Or was is completely different?
Visualy the torch type looks exactly the same as the one you used. Did you use the Bernzomatic brand? The 1/8" MIP is sloppy when first screwed into the torch body, but seems to kind of tighten up at the very end. The bent torch piece is definitely too big for the 1/8" FIP.
BlackHeliCrowd I bought parts at Home Depot. The 1/8" plug looks exactly like the one in the video. However, it is not the same. The H-D version, at the top of the threads has a very thin washer like obstruction cast into it. It looks the same, but without modification its not gonna thread.
I've been neding to make this torch for my forge for a while. So I got all the parts needed to do it just like you did. But when I disassembled the old torch assembly, mine was different in that 1) the orifice is not removable and 2) the end of the angled piece does not fit in the elbow as yours did. I ended up brazing the elbow in to the old valve body and making a couple of other adjustments. But it was a learning experience.
+daisy8luke THIS is what I'm talking about! You get an idea and you make it work despite setbacks. I almost did not post this video because I could imagine all the people wanting it laid out like a lego kit. I'm not hating on those people, but these videos are to show ideas and getting creative juices flowing.
clkindred Right. Rarely does anything work that smoothly just because you saw someone else do it. But the end result will be just as good or better if you just spread your wings and fly your own way. Still, your video was very helpful in getting me pointed in the right direction. I've since then ditched the strainer and mesh in the end of the stainless tub and just blow hot flame right in to my forge like a boss! So far, so good!!
Thank you! Yep I can solder larger fittings and such, because this torch can keep up with the heat loss of a large copper or brass fitting, a smaller torch just could not cut it.
I think it might have something to do with the fact that the mesh is slightly obstructing gas flow and allowing a more thorough combustion as opposed to rushing through un-combusted. OR maybe when the mesh heats up it facilitates the combustion reaction more efficiently.
Hi, thanks for sharing this video. You mentioned a brass fitting called a "face bushing" but didn't say what size it was. I know the inside should be 3/8 npt but what about the outside threading?
In an earlier project I made a propane camp stove and through a few months of experimenting found that the orifice needed to be as small as I could make it, any bigger than .016" is too big for a burner this size. .016 was the smallest drill bit I could get. This also means the burner can't be any smaller than this, because that would require a smaller orifice. The orifice size, burner tube diameter, burner tube length, primary combustion air holes, and burner head are all locked in a system that needs to be in balance. If one thing is changed, there must be changes made to the other elements as well.
clkindred Thanks for the quick response. It is the engineering calculations of the balanced system that I was that I was trying to find. Can you point me to a source that has the formulae or at least discusses the relationships of the various parameters?
There is no such information I could find myself, that is why the camp stove took so long to make. I found page after page of information on burners that have already been designed, but nothing on how to design your own. Detailes like orifice size and such were not published because they assume a technitian is just trying to troubleshoot the burner, not make changes or make one.
+elven b You may already know this, but there is such a thing as a "gas orifice drill chart." If you know your BTU output, you can look up the orifice size for propane or natural gas. You can also use this to convert appliances from propane to natural gas and vice-verse. A 0.016" orifice is a number 78 drill bit. That would be around 1800 BTU's. www.johnstone-westmichigan.com/techcenter/orficetable.pdf
clkindred, I have un into a problem with my torch. I did the modafication torch that hooh-up to a 20lb propane cyl. I can't seem to get it to burn correctly. I drilled the 3/16 air holes and driller a 1/16 hole for my orifice. What size did you drill your orifice in the plug? I plan to build a small forge ti smelt silver and such.
I live in Dk and its going to be impossible for me to get my hands on all these :( I know what you are thinking, Offcourse you can find everything if you try. But you got to live here to understand what I mean.... But we have the Internet thou. Thank you for a lovely Video
I just got a blowtorch. but instead of a 7/32 nut with a tiny hole it looked as if the manufaturer just milled a piece of brass into a bent pipe. Its all one piece. Ideas? there is not much thread otherwise I would just drill it out. What brand do you use?
Are you talking about the factory orifice? I don't reuse that piece so it should not matter how they made that particular part. Now if you are talking about the bent brass tube being a solid part with the blowtorch valve, then that might be a problem. I use "Worthington" torches. But the other popular brand "Berzomatic or whatever" has the same construction.
clkindred Kind of. Instead of that small bolt you show, the tube and orifice are all one piece. I have not tried to separate them out yet since I was jammed up at taking the orifice out. However, I found that my local Home Depot has some older style Burnzomatic ones that DO have the tiny orifice nut. I can clearly see it. Thanks a bunch.
Good video. Very entertaining. What did you have to go through by way of experimentation to get the air hole number and sizes, the orifice size and the relationships between them (and the end of the tip) to get a neutral flame of acceptable shape? I would have liked to see how you stalked that problem. 👍
CLKindred: It appears that the outgoing thread on the BernzOMatic torch is not a pipe thread. There is no way that the LFA-712 ( 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP street El can be used on the valve body, (unless I'm missing something here!).
Muy buen quemador. Soy de España y no entiendo muy bien el inglés, ¿serías tan amable de hacerme llegar la lista de materiales para hacer el quemador? Muchisimas gracias por tu tiempo y por la información, a mi me es muy útil.
1/8 NPT tap. National Pipe Thread is the standard of measurement with plumbing threads. The thread is physically larger than 1/8 inch, the 1/8 refers to the nominal inner diameter of schedule 40 iron pipe of that size. TPI of the tap is 27 I believe, but there is only one thread pitch for each pipe thread size. So any good hardware store will have pipe taps.
My build of this torch is almost complete, I started it Sunday evening and worked on it a little Sunday and Monday evening. I bought EVERYTHING for this except the drainer screen and apple corer (still need them) from Home Depot. The CORRECT TORCH is the Worthington WT2201 basic torch. It is the exact one used in the video and broke down exactly as shown. It is available in many places by that part number $9.99 on ebay, $12.00 Home depot, $27 Amazon. Aside from tapping the threads through the 1/4 X 3/8 piece (THAT WAS A ROYAL PAIN), this project has been fun and this tutorial is exceptional. BTW. I have my orifice epoxy setting up (ACRAGLAS). I hope this epoxy is appropriate, if soft solder is OK so should it. if not I'll drill the hole back out and re-do it. Thanks clkindred!
1958piwo CORRECTION: I gave the wrong part dimension: I SHOULD HAVE SAID I was running the tap through the 1/4 X 1/8 part. I said the wrong dimension in the post above. Sorry.
1958piwo You used a 1/4 x 1/8 npt reducer coupler? That will work, but makes the rest of the torch build a little different. Or did you find a 3/8 x 1/8 npt part? Anyway, tapping a deep pipe thread is a pain because of the taper, ounce you get in deep enough with the tap, it will be cutting threads the entire length of the hole, that's a lot of friction. A strait tap would cut easier because the cutting happens on the first couple threads on the tap, the rest of the tap just follows through.
I used the same parts as you did on your build: searched for the same part numbers on the bags in your video. The tap I used was an NPT tap cause it was the only one I could find: was hard work but got it done. I hope to get my stainless steel tube on Tuesday and complete the build, that's all I'm lacking. Gonna know soon!
1958piwo So my build is complete and I fired it up last night. I would say it is at about 90-95 percent effective. It does have a nice broad flame, it does "roar" and project nicely, but at the highest volume of gas a more lazy yellow flame is incorporated in the larger blue flame. The orifice size was .016 - .017 inch, so I think that's OK, but one question: what is the purpose of the aerator screen? The aerator screen that was used in the video turned out to be about 1/16th too small for the apple corer sleeve I found, and just slid back. I had some brass wire mesh I used for sifting black powder years ago, and I cut it from that piece. It is however a "finer" mesh so I'm not sure if the gas passing through finer mesh might have some effect? Otherwise, it's sweet!
Good to hear! Thanks for the update! As far as the full throttle fuel air problem, that sounds like there is too much restriction caused by the finer mesh screen. I found out a long time ago that there needs to be enough area for the fuel and air mix to exit the burner. If not, then it chokes up and burns with a soft feathery flame with some yellow depending on how bad the restriction is. At full gas flow, the sum of the gas and the air it has sucked in is too much to exit the burner, so it sucks in less air because the gas flow is "fixed" The purpose of the screen is to aid in mixing of the fuel and air, as well as prevent "flashbacks" at low gas pressure. The screen can be omitted as long as the burner tube is long enough to let the fuel and air mix before hitting the drain strainer, or flame anchor. But you may notice the burner "pop" when shutting it down, as the gas pressure falls below what is needed to keep the flame on the flame anchor and the flame shoots back towards the orifice.
Hey CLKINDRED, I just wanted to tell you that this DIY was really good and detailed. I noticed that a lot of people had some of the same questions that I did when I finally got around to gathering the parts to built your torch. I like others was looking for all the parts and couldn't find the apple corer and the face bushing. So heres what I did and maybe it will help others. As for the apple corer, it has been discontinued from walmart so I looked in virtually every other store but couldn't find it. After racking my brain I measured my wifes, which looked identical to yours but was a Pampered Chef and she threatened to kill me if I took it...lol, and it measured 7/8" ID. I was walking through Lowes and happened to look over and see some small outdoor solar lamps for walkways. After buying it for $7.00, I took it home, popped off the lamp and the ground spike and found it to be perfect match. The tube is just a little longer which I used a pipe cutter to get it the lenthg I wanted. As for the face bushing, I bought a Brass Pipe Reducer Coupling 1/2" FIP x 3/8" FIP, put it into my lathe and milled the 1/2" side down to a perfect 7/8". Its snug but just to keep it from falling out, after assembling the inside components, I slid it into the tube and used a micrometer to get the perfect depth, then drilled and tapped a hole to place a small stainless steel screw. It all fits together perfect and keeps the combustion holes from sliding into the tube and the insides from sliding out of the tube. BTW, I found that a 3/8" x 3" long brass pipe was the perfect length. To all, I'm sorry for the length but I hope it helps everyone who is building this cool torch. Thanks again.
+Jeff Allen
Hey Jeff, I drilled a .016 hole in the plug. I'm not gonna lie, it was a pain in the butt. First off the bit was so small that I had bent about 3. how it worked for me was I put the bit all the way up in the chuck only letting an eigth exposed. Secondly, I didnt use oil on the final and successful one. The first hole I drilled in the first plug was .0625. But I found that it came out to be a very nice tiki torch flame but not good for foundry use. The smaller the hole, the more of a focused diamond flame tip... which is what you need and want. I hope this helps
I was thinking along the same lines.. someone with a small mill and a forge could make up his own parts and build one of these for next to nothing.
Jeff Allen a might welder tip works to
Thanks you my friend. I am just getting the parts together to build one of these. I need a laminar torch for some scientific glass blowing and then casting aluminum. Thank you.
This is incredible I wish youtube had much more of this type of thing. It amazed me how complex a butane/propane torch flame is compared to a simple yellow flame.
+Largemouth Bass (esp) Yep, gas burners are very complicated. Thanks for the comment!
I've seen a lot of these projects on RUclips this is the very best video I've seen thank you for making this video
thanks for sending me this link!!!! It's exactly what I am looking for the upgrade my forge!!!! I'll send you a pic and/or video of the finished product. thanks Again!!!!
Sir,
I'm currently building my first propane forge and would really be interested in seeing some pics/vids of your build.
Will
nice build , also remove the sintered bronze slug to increase flow even more , its inside the insert the sticks down into the tank when you screw it together
How big did you drill the orifice into the 1/8th plug?
Awesome videos man. You explain everything really clearly.
Your videos rock! I was scared of trying to make one for a foundry I'm making.. but I think I'll try it now since I've seen these! Thanks! I'm trying to use one of those grill propane tanks for my foundry. You should make a video if you ever get to it someday!
Powertripp Productions Thank you! Seems there is interest in a burner design video, because you are not the only one to ask.
You are obviously a thinker. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Really well done. Excellent communication. And a good tool build. BUT I missed the orifice sizing. What size drill?
Excellent video but I have one question when you press the screen and strainer into the tube how do you keep it secure in place without it coming back out or going down in further?
Very impressive! nice job
Can you PLEASE send me a parts list and what size is the Face bushing??
Can this burner be used if your propane source is a 20lb tank and an appliance hose?
Orifice size. He talks about it in another video called “Stove Construction pt3”. The size is .016”. That’s a micro drill size and seems like a delicate task. Look on Amazon.
Good luck 🍀
Hello. Any idea how swirl flame might be done in your made? Thx in advance!
very impressive , like the details . well done .
Can anyone tell me why the 1/8" jet can't be positioned further in or further out? Why tap right through?
Could I go straight to 3/8 to 1/8. Or do I need the length of the tube and fittings for gas expansion?
This is brilliant!
Too bad you're not making videos no more.
Hope everything is fine!
Good job. Is there a way to calculate the diameter (or area) of the ventilation holes based on the size of the nozzle / torch?
that specific apple coring tool is no longer available is there a different tube I can use or the dimensions on that one
Buddy, I am loving your videos. Very Nice! I will now be trying a lot of these ideas myself. I thank you.
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
hello is the npt tap not on a tapper and if so wouldnt it mess the tapper up when u ran it in both ends of the bushing you tapped or am i wrong
Genius!!! Thank you
Very clever. Thank you!
wow ! Well made and done ! How can I get a much longer flame thrown from a standard gas cylinder blow torch ?? I would have to modify the nozzles etc 🤔
What size was the drill bit you used to create the orifice?
HA HA! I LOVE IT! TWO THUMBS UP
CAUTION: Downward angle TIPS could heat the tank & blow UP if the wind is blowing the flame ON TO THE TANK
PROBABLY NOT THOUGH
Thats awesome thanks for sharing
Insanely awesome
Now I want this for my mini forge.
I started customizing mine last night and whatever i made got way way to hot and whistled like a whistling pete and the flame is invisble up to 50% . Above 50% power its still hard to see.
But in 3 seconds the burner was already too hot to touch and smoking. 30 secongs the stainless tip that is almost 1/4 thick walls was glowing red.
After using it for a couple minutes it was getting unsafely hot and started welding the brass fittings to eachother.
Nice video ! Quick suggestion-- use a fine pipe screen from a local tobacco shop. This will add a little more pressure and enhance the flame...........
Awesome. Thank you!
Excellent design. Thank you.
Thanks!
man your a legend very cool
Fantastic presentation! I know first hand how much work this must have been. BRAVO!!
Thanks for this. You explain each piece with detail.
The most important pease was left out !!!
If u do ever thing he did but not drill that hole no propane will come out !!!!
Sir, you ARE a genius. Thank you for sharing.
Seriously I think he is a genius on some type of level. The way he speaks and his tone of voice mixed with his extensive knowledge.
His voice, when he speaks l keep seein Anthony Perkins (Norman Bates) in my mind
But yes he's put together a great powerful blowtorch here.
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This is very good...thanks
Without having to mess around with looking for an apple corer what is the interior diameter of that tubing so I can just go find that dimension from a metal supplier.
You don't have to look too hard. It's a Walmart item.
Also... Couldn't I just resize the orifice hole to a bigger size on the original plumbing? Or would that plumbing size not suffice to that modification?
Powertripp Productions You could do that as well, not a bad idea really.
Just for future reference you don't need teflon tape or anything to seal the threads on brass it seals itself because it is soft enough.
Bro I dig ya. Your kinda the man. I find your approaches and explanations very relaxed and easy to follow. For now just two questions for you man. 1) true the blow torch's are commonly found but I don't know about the one you use for the bigger rebuild. What kind is it cause sure as shit isn't your typical Home Depot bernzomatic.
It's a Lowe's Worthington torch, although the basic one from home depot will probably work too, as long as the valve is threaded the same way.
I've got an interesting question for you can this type of torch be used for lamp work?
for boro & soft its definitely hot enough 1980 °C 3596 °F
Just propane or is it ok for Mapp gas ?
Only question is what size is the hole did he drill in the plug
How big is the hole you drilled in the new Orpheus ?
Very impressed! great job! How do I buy a few?
My iPads being funny. I'll hold off on the second question. Information is our weapon and people like you are beyond helpful. Cheers.
a .023 mig tip works perfect
Greg I just bought the 50lbs due to the size of my big foundry plus i am building a small one for fast projects but Thank you
great vid i think I'm going to make this thank you.
Nice build, is this new improved torch the one I'd need to use in your furnace? Would be using to smelt gold and silver.
Yes, this is the burner I use in my trashcan forge.
What size did you drill the orphus hole threw the 1/8 plug? I dont think you mentioned it only thing keeping me from moving on
.016 inch.
What's the purpose of the mesh
What brand of valve did you use? I bought a Bernzomatic and it does not have pipe thread in the end. It is some odd metric size.
+christmascreature1 Sorry for the delay, the brand of torch used was a "Worthington" torch.
Could i get a parts list for this please.
All i can say is... WOW! Your torch is very,very impressive to say the least! One would never think that it was homemade by the looks and operation of it. Your ingenuity and creativity are at levels that are way above the normal thinkers. You have a gift, man! Thanks for sharing!!!
great video, very well explained.
+Rusty Panels Thank you!
+clkindred I like the video could you send parts list to my email
I'm only 7 mins in and i dont know if i can take anymore of the pausing on one step and just being in awe of the results like it's the second coming of Christ.
CLKindred: The orifice's on the new BernzOmatic torches appear not to be removable? The nose of the orifice is cone shaped which renders the brass tube un-usable? Any suggestions? I have 3: 2 are over 2 years old and they are ll the same.
Ed..
Ed Alger drill out the cone. For the tube, replace it with a short piece of 1/8" brass tube.
cool build
What is the length of that brass pipe? About to build it myself, but I just need to know the pipe length. Thanks!
+Derpbag Gaming Not my build, but from watching the video, the brass pipe appears to be 1-inch shorter than the stainless steel tube as that is how far he pushed the screens down until they butted up against the brass pipe.
Very nice
all those things you bought, with the same amount of money you could get a butane torch weedwacker for 20 bucks that produces the same flame
clkindred , I've been to every hardware store and hobby shop to find a .016" drill bit (FYI #78) but the smallest I could find is #60 (which is .040") so I drilled the orifice and installed.... I'm getting a billowing yellow/orange flame rather than the concentrated blue flame associated with a "torch". Is this because the orifice is still too large?
yep, I noticed that even .024 (#73) is too large for a burner this size. You may have to design your burner around your .040 orifice. Another option is to drill a large hole in the brass plug, 1/8" - 5/32" or so, and fill in the hole with soft electrical solder and then pierce the solder with a pin. I have used this method to make orifices smaller than .016 for my camping stoves, but it takes trial and error to get the right size, and re-doing the orifice every time is a pain. Another option still is to pack into the oversize hole a dab of epoxy putty, while it's still soft pierce the orifice and let cure.
You can get a Pin Vise Set off ebay for around $7.19. It has a No.78 drill bit in the set.
Check out eBay item number: 291010109735
Good luck with it. Keith.
This thing is, awesome. gives me ideas for a wok burner. if you have any ideas for a good wok burner let me know. ( I REALLY like the door knob burner)
haggard184 Most wok burners I have seen use multiple small burners (like 20 small blowtorch sized burners) or a large "banjo" style burner. I think three or four door knob burners plumbed together would be a good middle ground between the two designs.
Well done.
Thank you for the info, I'm going to try and make one myself. Just one thing, can this be made for a forge burner?
Lee Cosner Sure can.
What size is the hole in the orifice?
Lee Cosner I sure hope it can, cause that's why I built mine! Also, the Apple Corer I used is the Fox Run Stainless Steel Apple Corer, and if you google search it it's widely available. It's about 5" long
How does one contact you to build them one
Sir, the logic you demonstrate throughout all of your videos is very impressive and commendable.
QUESTION: How do you arrive at the most efficiently burning design with respect to the "DIFFUSOR" (sink parts)?
Is there a "golden ratio" that exists that I'm not aware of?
My ignorance prevents me from understanding what exactly is achieved by diffusing the flame WITHIN THE TUBE before it exits the end.
(If my my question has already been addressed, please forgive me for not having the time to read all of the comments.)
+TexasLONGRIFLE First I'll go over what the sink parts do. The drain strainer with the large holes in it, makes the "flame anchor" when placed into the fuel/air stream it creates low pressure zone just past it. Think of water in a river flowing around a bridge support, as the water goes around and past the support it creates eddy currents on the downstream side. This is needed to anchor the flame or it will be pushed outside the burner and blow itself out. The screen is just to prevent the flame from flashing back towards the orifice at low gas pressure, it's kind of complicated how a screen blocks passage of a flame, but it has a lot to do with sucking the heat out of the flame.
As for a golden ratio, I'm not sure. For the flame anchor to work it seems to need about a 20-30% ratio of web (stuff in between the holes) to 80-70% holes. As far as the size of the holes, they all seem to work, but I noticed the larger the holes, the louder the burner.
Is there a reason for all the bends or is it more fo being compact? Also im using a 3/4 copper pipe and a .025 mig tip. The 3/16 air vents seem to not allow enough air. Any suggestions to an air vent size for the .025 orifice? Also i have it rigged up to my bbq 5 gallon tank
The bends are just to move the start of the burner back for compactness, yes. My orifice in .016 inch, an orifice of .025 is about 1.56 times bigger in area. A 19/64 inch bit would make a hole very close to 1.56 times bigger than your 3/16 inch holes. Or a 5/16 inch bit if you don't have 19/64 bit. You could also try more holes in the current size.
Just be aware that .016 was the LARGEST orifice I could get to work with a burner this size. Anything larger required a larger overall burner. Larger orifice means more fuel gas, witch requires more combustion air, witch requires a larger and longer burner tube to let it all through at the correct velocity and pressure.
I would think the weight would possibly tip the fuckin thing over hence the balanced burner?
Thank you so much the mystery was solved. Even though the reducer hole measures the 3/8 it takes the 1/8 pipe threading tap with a 27 TPI. The funniest thing is I went to Home Depot for a 1/8 square stopper ( with no shoulder) n it didn't fit after tapping it out, then I went to a plumbing supply store n bought another 1/8 square stopper n it fit perfectly.
The only other question I have is the orifice u said a .016 hole, I have a 1/64 bit which is .01562 so do you mean get a 1/64 bit?
no, the micro drill bits I have are measured in thousanths of an inch. .016 is exactly what it is. A bit measuring .015 or so will be fine.
I recently tried your suggestions with a older Bernzomatic torch. There was an issue with matching up the threading of the torch and the brass fittings you specified. Do you know the thread type on the Bernzomatic. Also, the orifice was was not removable, but built into the bent tube, on the end.
+BlackHeliCrowd If the torch is designed differently than the ones I use, then I don't know what thread type it has. Was it close to fitting? Or was is completely different?
Visualy the torch type looks exactly the same as the one you used. Did you use the Bernzomatic brand? The 1/8" MIP is sloppy when first screwed into the torch body, but seems to kind of tighten up at the very end. The bent torch piece is definitely too big for the 1/8" FIP.
BlackHeliCrowd I bought parts at Home Depot. The 1/8" plug looks exactly like the one in the video. However, it is not the same.
The H-D version, at the top of the threads has a very thin washer like obstruction cast into it. It looks the same, but without modification its not gonna thread.
I've been neding to make this torch for my forge for a while. So I got all the parts needed to do it just like you did. But when I disassembled the old torch assembly, mine was different in that 1) the orifice is not removable and 2) the end of the angled piece does not fit in the elbow as yours did. I ended up brazing the elbow in to the old valve body and making a couple of other adjustments. But it was a learning experience.
+daisy8luke THIS is what I'm talking about! You get an idea and you make it work despite setbacks. I almost did not post this video because I could imagine all the people wanting it laid out like a lego kit. I'm not hating on those people, but these videos are to show ideas and getting creative juices flowing.
clkindred Right. Rarely does anything work that smoothly just because you saw someone else do it. But the end result will be just as good or better if you just spread your wings and fly your own way. Still, your video was very helpful in getting me pointed in the right direction. I've since then ditched the strainer and mesh in the end of the stainless tub and just blow hot flame right in to my forge like a boss! So far, so good!!
awesome idea.excellent naration.
Thanks!
apple corer where do you get those in what store because i could not find the corer at stop and shop, market basket, Shaw, etc
I got them at walmart, but they no longer carry them. Similar models can be found online though.
thank you for the info, I also tried Stainless turkey baster and that works good
Can we please get a parts list? I really want to make this
Top job,i know it will use more gas but it will heat things a lot faster.
So maybe it wont use more.
All the best from Australia.
Thank you! Yep I can solder larger fittings and such, because this torch can keep up with the heat loss of a large copper or brass fitting, a smaller torch just could not cut it.
Dont kid yourself Jeffrey, even though it will heat faster, it will still use more lol
great man
The only thing that puzzles me is the gauze, just how does it improve gas flow / heat output?
I think it might have something to do with the fact that the mesh is slightly obstructing gas flow and allowing a more thorough combustion as opposed to rushing through un-combusted. OR maybe when the mesh heats up it facilitates the combustion reaction more efficiently.
Hi, thanks for sharing this video. You mentioned a brass fitting called a "face bushing" but didn't say what size it was. I know the inside should be 3/8 npt but what about the outside threading?
oops! It's 1/2 NPT outside.
cool thanks
Thank youu for this video
I echo all the thanks for this video and look forward to building the forge. How did determine the size of the orifice that was needed?
In an earlier project I made a propane camp stove and through a few months of experimenting found that the orifice needed to be as small as I could make it, any bigger than .016" is too big for a burner this size. .016 was the smallest drill bit I could get. This also means the burner can't be any smaller than this, because that would require a smaller orifice. The orifice size, burner tube diameter, burner tube length, primary combustion air holes, and burner head are all locked in a system that needs to be in balance. If one thing is changed, there must be changes made to the other elements as well.
clkindred Thanks for the quick response. It is the engineering calculations of the balanced system that I was that I was trying to find. Can you point me to a source that has the formulae or at least discusses the relationships of the various parameters?
There is no such information I could find myself, that is why the camp stove took so long to make. I found page after page of information on burners that have already been designed, but nothing on how to design your own. Detailes like orifice size and such were not published because they assume a technitian is just trying to troubleshoot the burner, not make changes or make one.
clkindred Thanks. If I do find anything on the calculations, I'll send it to you.
+elven b You may already know this, but there is such a thing as a "gas orifice drill chart." If you know your BTU output, you can look up the orifice size for propane or natural gas. You can also use this to convert appliances from propane to natural gas and vice-verse. A 0.016" orifice is a number 78 drill bit. That would be around 1800 BTU's.
www.johnstone-westmichigan.com/techcenter/orficetable.pdf
Very impressed. How much? I need 4 of them.
clkindred, I have un into a problem with my torch. I did the modafication torch that hooh-up to a 20lb propane cyl. I can't seem to get it to burn correctly. I drilled the 3/16 air holes and driller a 1/16 hole for my orifice. What size did you drill your orifice in the plug? I plan to build a small forge ti smelt silver and such.
I used a .016" drill I got from the hobby store. 1/16" is many hundreds of times too large for a burner this size.
clkindred
OK perhaps not hundreds of times too big, but far too large.
Okay thanks, I will try it.
I live in Dk and its going to be impossible for me to get my hands on all these :( I know what you are thinking, Offcourse you can find everything if you try. But you got to live here to understand what I mean.... But we have the Internet thou. Thank you for a lovely Video
I just got a blowtorch. but instead of a 7/32 nut with a tiny hole it looked as if the manufaturer just milled a piece of brass into a bent pipe. Its all one piece. Ideas? there is not much thread otherwise I would just drill it out. What brand do you use?
Are you talking about the factory orifice? I don't reuse that piece so it should not matter how they made that particular part. Now if you are talking about the bent brass tube being a solid part with the blowtorch valve, then that might be a problem. I use "Worthington" torches. But the other popular brand "Berzomatic or whatever" has the same construction.
clkindred Kind of. Instead of that small bolt you show, the tube and orifice are all one piece. I have not tried to separate them out yet since I was jammed up at taking the orifice out. However, I found that my local Home Depot has some older style Burnzomatic ones that DO have the tiny orifice nut. I can clearly see it. Thanks a bunch.
clkindred No it doesn't. They are making them as all solid brass pieces now.
Good video. Very entertaining. What did you have to go through by way of experimentation to get the air hole number and sizes, the orifice size and the relationships between them (and the end of the tip) to get a neutral flame of acceptable shape? I would have liked to see how you stalked that problem. 👍
nice tap handle
CLKindred: It appears that the outgoing thread on the BernzOMatic torch is not a pipe thread. There is no way that the LFA-712 ( 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP street El can be used on the valve body, (unless I'm missing something here!).
very helpful thank you
+justin bowers Thanks for watching!
Greetings and where have you been all my life this is magnificent truly without a doubt Hank Hill would be so proud be safe.
could you make a parts list plz and ty
thnks.:)
Creative❤
Muy buen quemador.
Soy de España y no entiendo muy bien el inglés, ¿serías tan amable de hacerme llegar la lista de materiales para hacer el quemador?
Muchisimas gracias por tu tiempo y por la información, a mi me es muy útil.
Do you mean 3/8 not tap? Not 1/8 not tap. What was the thread count 24 or 32? Where do get the tap from?
1/8 NPT tap. National Pipe Thread is the standard of measurement with plumbing threads. The thread is physically larger than 1/8 inch, the 1/8 refers to the nominal inner diameter of schedule 40 iron pipe of that size. TPI of the tap is 27 I believe, but there is only one thread pitch for each pipe thread size. So any good hardware store will have pipe taps.
My build of this torch is almost complete, I started it Sunday evening and worked on it a little Sunday and Monday evening. I bought EVERYTHING for this except the drainer screen and apple corer (still need them) from Home Depot. The CORRECT TORCH is the Worthington WT2201 basic torch. It is the exact one used in the video and broke down exactly as shown. It is available in many places by that part number $9.99 on ebay, $12.00 Home depot, $27 Amazon. Aside from tapping the threads through the 1/4 X 3/8 piece (THAT WAS A ROYAL PAIN), this project has been fun and this tutorial is exceptional. BTW. I have my orifice epoxy setting up (ACRAGLAS). I hope this epoxy is appropriate, if soft solder is OK so should it. if not I'll drill the hole back out and re-do it. Thanks clkindred!
1958piwo CORRECTION: I gave the wrong part dimension: I SHOULD HAVE SAID I was running the tap through the 1/4 X 1/8 part. I said the wrong dimension in the post above. Sorry.
1958piwo You used a 1/4 x 1/8 npt reducer coupler? That will work, but makes the rest of the torch build a little different. Or did you find a 3/8 x 1/8 npt part?
Anyway, tapping a deep pipe thread is a pain because of the taper, ounce you get in deep enough with the tap, it will be cutting threads the entire length of the hole, that's a lot of friction. A strait tap would cut easier because the cutting happens on the first couple threads on the tap, the rest of the tap just follows through.
I used the same parts as you did on your build: searched for the same part numbers on the bags in your video. The tap I used was an NPT tap cause it was the only one I could find: was hard work but got it done. I hope to get my stainless steel tube on Tuesday and complete the build, that's all I'm lacking. Gonna know soon!
1958piwo So my build is complete and I fired it up last night. I would say it is at about 90-95 percent effective. It does have a nice broad flame, it does "roar" and project nicely, but at the highest volume of gas a more lazy yellow flame is incorporated in the larger blue flame. The orifice size was .016 - .017 inch, so I think that's OK, but one question: what is the purpose of the aerator screen? The aerator screen that was used in the video turned out to be about 1/16th too small for the apple corer sleeve I found, and just slid back. I had some brass wire mesh I used for sifting black powder years ago, and I cut it from that piece. It is however a "finer" mesh so I'm not sure if the gas passing through finer mesh might have some effect? Otherwise, it's sweet!
Good to hear! Thanks for the update! As far as the full throttle fuel air problem, that sounds like there is too much restriction caused by the finer mesh screen. I found out a long time ago that there needs to be enough area for the fuel and air mix to exit the burner. If not, then it chokes up and burns with a soft feathery flame with some yellow depending on how bad the restriction is. At full gas flow, the sum of the gas and the air it has sucked in is too much to exit the burner, so it sucks in less air because the gas flow is "fixed"
The purpose of the screen is to aid in mixing of the fuel and air, as well as prevent "flashbacks" at low gas pressure. The screen can be omitted as long as the burner tube is long enough to let the fuel and air mix before hitting the drain strainer, or flame anchor. But you may notice the burner "pop" when shutting it down, as the gas pressure falls below what is needed to keep the flame on the flame anchor and the flame shoots back towards the orifice.