I just purchased this same exact coach. Same model same length same engine everything, only different exterior paint home and graphics .has 72k absolutely love it . I've watch several of your videos very helpful thanks
The yellow valve aka parking/emergency brake, controls the spring brakes. No air or extremely low air, that yellow button will pop out and stay out until the system generates enough air to A) hold the yellow button in when you depress it, B) fill the chambers to overpower the big springs in the brake chambers. So, air releases the springs, but air also controls the service brakes when you step on the brake pedal. There is an anti-compounding valve to avoid damaging things should one step on the pedal with the spring brakes already applied. The warning devices - dash light and buzzer, serve to notify the operator that air is falling or has fallen below normal operating levels needed to keep those springs from doing what springs do, which is to push outward. If you develop a leak in the system while you're moving, warning lights/buzzers tell you to get slowed and parked asap before you lose all control and the springs regain their power over controlling air, at which point the brakes are no longer under the operator's control. It's a great 2-sided system, and it's good that these 2-sided systems were mandated in over the older single-sided system of the old days (change came in the 70's). It takes air to do it all, and take away that supply or lose it suddenly, the springs will be allowed to push out, pushing the pushrod out, push the slack adjusters, turn the s-cams, applying the shoes against the drums. In the case of disc brakes, substitute calipers and pads against a disc and eliminate the s-cam and slack adjuster. Fewer things to install, carry, maintain. The downshot to air disc brakes is cost. But air releases the spring brakes, modulated (controlled) air applies the service brakes, the harder you push the brake pedal the more force the brakes apply to stop you. The spring side will bring you to an unmodulated / uncontrolled stop if you lost all air, hence the warning devices to give you notice to get safely stopped under control, rather than POW the brakes lock on full force. The beauty of air brakes is that air is in plentiful supply and costs nothing more than the cost of running your engine or compressor, can withstand some contamination, system can withstand/overcome minor leaks. The downside to air brakes is that they aren't well understood (but same can be said for hydraulic brakes on cars - most users know little or nothing about how it all works, they just use it until it doesn't work) by all users, and even those who do understand air brake systems often tend to neglect and overlook signs of trouble. Also, the old go-big-or-go-home idea. Bigger vehicles, bigger brake components, bigger price tag for the heavier components. Having a 2-sided system with spring brakes, means that if you park a vehicle, when you release the button, air leaves the chambers and allows 100% mechanical action (strong springs pushing hard) to hold the brakes on, whereas the old system (and also the existing railroad system) if the air bleeds off, which it always does), the brakes begin to lose their holding power and the vehicle will be free to move without sufficient power to keep the shoes or pads against the drums or discs. Oh, and one other thing... push-button automatics came to North America thanks to Chrysler back in around 1954-56. People liked it, but it had its problems. And no, I`m not a Chrysler fan, I`m just old, and saw these push-button things still limping around while I was growing up.
@@jonas2431 I'm gonna call old trucker's tale on that. Any energy powerful enough to break your thumb is going to send that plunger right through the palm of your hand.
This makes me want to have such a thing too, but there's two problems: 1.: In germoney you need a truck drivers license for such a heavy RV 2.: even a used one like this would cost over 25 grand
Ironically, all that`s needed in North America is a basic car driving license, despite the fact that they seem to have air brakes. Where I`m from, the operator would have to have his or her air brake endorsement, but only need a (class G) license, proof of insurance, ownership, and they would be off to the races.
My 1993 Gulfstream has a 5.9 Cummins and after a 30 mile run I got 27 PSI of oil pressure at Idle. 55lbs at 60MPH in 6th. Only 88,000KM (55,000 miles) on mine.
Well, @DanielJaegerFilms, so far so good on your test drive. I am impressed with your take driving your RV. I’m going to have to wait for future videos on the actual starting of the engine and revving from the outside when you plan to film your RV adventures once the muffler is replaced or fixed. Starting the engine from the inside often have irritating dinging sounds as I can’t hear the engine starting, but from the outside is much better. I’m hoping that the replacement muffler will have the same sound as your old muffler. Once the muffler replacement is done, I would love to hear the engine starting up and giving it some revs (low and high RPM revs specifically) before a second test drive - all on video.
I don`t think he needs to replace the muffler. Just the extension pipe out the back that takes the gases back past the point of the rear bumper. I`m not even sure it`s a legal requirement to have that final pipe back there, but if it were mine, I`d feel better that the gases were piped out as far as possible from underneath the vehicle. Otherwise, maybe I`d put a 90-degree angle pipe and route the exhaust out the side if I could find a point to suspend it.
Stan Patterson Well, my reasoning of why the muffler could be replaced soon is due to California’s emission standard regulations. I don’t know of any dealers that can replace the tailpipe of an RV that is certified to meets California’s emission standards while keeping an older model RV, but I would recommend looking it up.
@@chak595301 He doesn`t live in California. Why would he replace the muffler if nothing is wrong with the muffler? He`s not even going to take it to a dealer or a shop, he`s going to weld on a tail pipe one of these days, as he put it. Have you never seen exhaust work done without changing everything from the front to the back? Furthermore, as far as California emissions goes, does the tailpipe alone make any difference to what the motor spews out ? I do not understand how Cal emissions came into this in the first place.
Stan Patterson it’s not about living in the state of California. I’m referring to the emissions that are compliant, whether anyone plans to visit the state of California or not - even the state of New York already has some information. The history about how the emission standards of California came in the first place can be found at the California Air Resources webpage (this is the link: ww2.arb.ca.gov/about/history), dating back to the Federal Air Quality Act of 1967. The muffler may be OK, but I was hoping that the tailpipe replacement is compliant with the stricter emission standards set by the state of California, regardless of what state any person resides in (or if the tailpipe replacement is the newer pipe close to the original specs). After you read the link at the state of California’s Air Resources Board, I hope that you’ll understand the challenges facing the nation from California’s point of view, especially dealing with increasing wildfires year after year.
@@chak595301 how will a muffler affect emissions? A muffler is just a box that quiets the exhaust. He would need to add a DPF or a catalitic converter to do anything would he not?
I have a 1994 Gulfstream Friendship with the 8.3 turbocharged Cummins same as described here the key is keeping it limber by using it frequently these engines are good for over 500,000 miles and seldom will you find one with that much usage as you can figure operating cost is nearly a dollar per mile oil fuel tires and other typical repairs like exhaust brakes alternator and then batteries and your generator ! Believe me even with his 300 hours dedicated to bringing it up to its present condition I can guarantee it is his pride and joy as is mine!
So what's the deal with licenses over there? In the UK you'd have to do a pretty intensive driving test to be able to drive one of those, not to mention special insurance which probably isn't cheap plus it would probably not fit in most old towns, but I feel like in the land of the free it won't be that way lol
i passed my drivers test in the UK back in 84/85. much harder than US test. anyone from the UK could pass standard car test here with your eyes closed. i think my F350 dually in the UK would be classed as a HGV. 8500 lb curb and tows 18k.
Nice man how hard was it to redo this wanting a camping trailer and weve seen some great deals on ones that need work. I do mechanical work and I'm pretty handy with pretty much everything around the house but don't know how much of a project I want
RVs don’t have sport mode at all, unfortunately. I personally never saw any RV that has that kind of capability, which is only available in certain sports cars like a Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini, or even higher end models with sport mode.
Unless both the driver and you are blind and deaf, there not needed. if either party is blind or deaf, they shouldn't be near this thing. When near places where there are vehicles of any size, you should be aware of what's around you.
Not all gasoline engines idle high when cold. An early 2000s Chevrolet truck/SUV with a V8 engine do not idle high when cold. They startup and run at idle, just like a diesel.
Diesel engines in North America used to use that approach when electronic engine control first appeared in the late 80's and early 90's, where the engine would jump to a high idle when started cold, and then slowly throttle back to their bare idle as they warmed. I found this to be advantageous only to ensure that the engine got running smoothly on all cylinders, but of course it put some stress on the engine being immediately ramped up to a silly speed before great oil flow has been established. It also lead to excessive emissions, which at that time was not new, but for a computer-managed system, was sort of defeating the purpose of reducing emissions. Anyways, the thinking is different now in today's world of computer-managed diesel engines, and most modern heavy diesel engines no longer jump up to 1000 or 1100 rpm at cold start, but they still do rev slightly above what is considered to be "bare idle" speed, until they hit a pre-determined heat range.
Although I don’t have the best info, some states like California do require class B non-commercial license if the trailer is more than 40 feet. Not all states have this requirement, so it’s best to check up with your state’s DMV. The following is a link to the California DMV site on RVs. www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/uploads/2020/06/dl648.pdf
I just purchased this same exact coach. Same model same length same engine everything, only different exterior paint home and graphics .has 72k absolutely love it . I've watch several of your videos very helpful thanks
It seems like the perfect size I’d love to find one.
I sure did enjoy the ride - and the camera angle you chose. Real nice video!
Nice Rig!! Cool seeing you in laid back mode in shorts and flip flops!! Its good to relax a little.
Nice video Dan, always enjoy! I Started watching you're channel when I was 9 years old, I am now 20 man it's amazing how time flys!!
Just wait until you're in your mid 50's and ten get back to us with an update lol : ))
The yellow valve aka parking/emergency brake, controls the spring brakes. No air or extremely low air, that yellow button will pop out and stay out until the system generates enough air to A) hold the yellow button in when you depress it, B) fill the chambers to overpower the big springs in the brake chambers. So, air releases the springs, but air also controls the service brakes when you step on the brake pedal. There is an anti-compounding valve to avoid damaging things should one step on the pedal with the spring brakes already applied. The warning devices - dash light and buzzer, serve to notify the operator that air is falling or has fallen below normal operating levels needed to keep those springs from doing what springs do, which is to push outward. If you develop a leak in the system while you're moving, warning lights/buzzers tell you to get slowed and parked asap before you lose all control and the springs regain their power over controlling air, at which point the brakes are no longer under the operator's control. It's a great 2-sided system, and it's good that these 2-sided systems were mandated in over the older single-sided system of the old days (change came in the 70's). It takes air to do it all, and take away that supply or lose it suddenly, the springs will be allowed to push out, pushing the pushrod out, push the slack adjusters, turn the s-cams, applying the shoes against the drums. In the case of disc brakes, substitute calipers and pads against a disc and eliminate the s-cam and slack adjuster. Fewer things to install, carry, maintain. The downshot to air disc brakes is cost. But air releases the spring brakes, modulated (controlled) air applies the service brakes, the harder you push the brake pedal the more force the brakes apply to stop you. The spring side will bring you to an unmodulated / uncontrolled stop if you lost all air, hence the warning devices to give you notice to get safely stopped under control, rather than POW the brakes lock on full force. The beauty of air brakes is that air is in plentiful supply and costs nothing more than the cost of running your engine or compressor, can withstand some contamination, system can withstand/overcome minor leaks. The downside to air brakes is that they aren't well understood (but same can be said for hydraulic brakes on cars - most users know little or nothing about how it all works, they just use it until it doesn't work) by all users, and even those who do understand air brake systems often tend to neglect and overlook signs of trouble. Also, the old go-big-or-go-home idea. Bigger vehicles, bigger brake components, bigger price tag for the heavier components. Having a 2-sided system with spring brakes, means that if you park a vehicle, when you release the button, air leaves the chambers and allows 100% mechanical action (strong springs pushing hard) to hold the brakes on, whereas the old system (and also the existing railroad system) if the air bleeds off, which it always does), the brakes begin to lose their holding power and the vehicle will be free to move without sufficient power to keep the shoes or pads against the drums or discs.
Oh, and one other thing... push-button automatics came to North America thanks to Chrysler back in around 1954-56. People liked it, but it had its problems. And no, I`m not a Chrysler fan, I`m just old, and saw these push-button things still limping around while I was growing up.
Wow, I learned more from reading this comment than the last few forum sites I read through for info on air brakes. Thanks for the comment!
I appreciate a man who is considerate of his neighbors!!
Thanks! Enjoyed the video!
as a truck driver I found this video amusing lol
0-60 would be in miles rather than seconds for that house.
Cool video. Tip i learned in truck school never use your thumb to release the are breaks
Why?
@@classic287 because if it pops out it could break your thumb we were taught to use the palm of out hands
@@jonas2431 I'm gonna call old trucker's tale on that. Any energy powerful enough to break your thumb is going to send that plunger right through the palm of your hand.
Regaurdless it's going to hurt your thumb if it pops back out. Besides it's much easier with the palm of your hand.
This makes me want to have such a thing too, but there's two problems:
1.: In germoney you need a truck drivers license for such a heavy RV
2.: even a used one like this would cost over 25 grand
Ironically, all that`s needed in North America is a basic car driving license, despite the fact that they seem to have air brakes. Where I`m from, the operator would have to have his or her air brake endorsement, but only need a (class G) license, proof of insurance, ownership, and they would be off to the races.
My 1993 Gulfstream has a 5.9 Cummins and after a 30 mile run I got 27 PSI of oil pressure at Idle. 55lbs at 60MPH in 6th. Only 88,000KM (55,000 miles) on mine.
10:03 your also like 95’ away from the motor with the exhaust facing away from you. And like 20 walls in between.
Well, @DanielJaegerFilms, so far so good on your test drive. I am impressed with your take driving your RV. I’m going to have to wait for future videos on the actual starting of the engine and revving from the outside when you plan to film your RV adventures once the muffler is replaced or fixed. Starting the engine from the inside often have irritating dinging sounds as I can’t hear the engine starting, but from the outside is much better. I’m hoping that the replacement muffler will have the same sound as your old muffler. Once the muffler replacement is done, I would love to hear the engine starting up and giving it some revs (low and high RPM revs specifically) before a second test drive - all on video.
I don`t think he needs to replace the muffler. Just the extension pipe out the back that takes the gases back past the point of the rear bumper. I`m not even sure it`s a legal requirement to have that final pipe back there, but if it were mine, I`d feel better that the gases were piped out as far as possible from underneath the vehicle. Otherwise, maybe I`d put a 90-degree angle pipe and route the exhaust out the side if I could find a point to suspend it.
Stan Patterson Well, my reasoning of why the muffler could be replaced soon is due to California’s emission standard regulations. I don’t know of any dealers that can replace the tailpipe of an RV that is certified to meets California’s emission standards while keeping an older model RV, but I would recommend looking it up.
@@chak595301 He doesn`t live in California. Why would he replace the muffler if nothing is wrong with the muffler? He`s not even going to take it to a dealer or a shop, he`s going to weld on a tail pipe one of these days, as he put it. Have you never seen exhaust work done without changing everything from the front to the back? Furthermore, as far as California emissions goes, does the tailpipe alone make any difference to what the motor spews out ? I do not understand how Cal emissions came into this in the first place.
Stan Patterson it’s not about living in the state of California. I’m referring to the emissions that are compliant, whether anyone plans to visit the state of California or not - even the state of New York already has some information. The history about how the emission standards of California came in the first place can be found at the California Air Resources webpage (this is the link: ww2.arb.ca.gov/about/history), dating back to the Federal Air Quality Act of 1967.
The muffler may be OK, but I was hoping that the tailpipe replacement is compliant with the stricter emission standards set by the state of California, regardless of what state any person resides in (or if the tailpipe replacement is the newer pipe close to the original specs).
After you read the link at the state of California’s Air Resources Board, I hope that you’ll understand the challenges facing the nation from California’s point of view, especially dealing with increasing wildfires year after year.
@@chak595301 how will a muffler affect emissions? A muffler is just a box that quiets the exhaust. He would need to add a DPF or a catalitic converter to do anything would he not?
my 2002 fleetwood expedition doesnt let me know what gear its in, this is a much nicer selector!
Yeah buddy love 💗
Make more videos I live for them
Is the engine on this RV turbo charged?
push button transmission has actually been around since late 50's!
Does this unit have a Jake brake or exhaust brake?
boosting a cold powerstroke ?
how is the reliability on those older pushers ?
I have a 1994 Gulfstream Friendship with the 8.3 turbocharged Cummins same as described here the key is keeping it limber by using it frequently these engines are good for over 500,000 miles and seldom will you find one with that much usage as you can figure operating cost is nearly a dollar per mile oil fuel tires and other typical repairs like exhaust brakes alternator and then batteries and your generator ! Believe me even with his 300 hours dedicated to bringing it up to its present condition I can guarantee it is his pride and joy as is mine!
Oh yeah fire it up and pedal to the metal absolutely unreal
belt squeak on the cummins?
Is your charging system working properly? The volt meter is reading low.
Was thinking that. id of though it would of been more in the 14 volt range.
I’ve noticed the same thing, but I believe it’s in the gauge. After reading with a digital gauge it’s a consistent 13.5 -14.6 with the engine running.
Are you gonna hop up the engine so it’s got a bit more pep?
So what's the deal with licenses over there? In the UK you'd have to do a pretty intensive driving test to be able to drive one of those, not to mention special insurance which probably isn't cheap plus it would probably not fit in most old towns, but I feel like in the land of the free it won't be that way lol
Surprisingly, no special license required for this rig, and liability only was pretty inexpensive.
i passed my drivers test in the UK back in 84/85. much harder than US test. anyone from the UK could pass standard car test here with your eyes closed. i think my F350 dually in the UK would be classed as a HGV. 8500 lb curb and tows 18k.
Nice man how hard was it to redo this wanting a camping trailer and weve seen some great deals on ones that need work. I do mechanical work and I'm pretty handy with pretty much everything around the house but don't know how much of a project I want
It was a LOT of work, approximately 300 hours of labor we estimated.
What year is that MotorHome?
1995
1995 it was, as saw in the earlier videos.
That temperature guage pegged I think when you went up the hill.
what kind of trans? Allison?
Allison 6 speed
How’s the excursion?!?!
Minty 👌 just got back from a road trip! 👍
11:37 so your saying it’s in sport mode all the time. Unless your in eco
No, it's in normal mode all the time unless it's eco. There's no "sport mode"
RVs don’t have sport mode at all, unfortunately. I personally never saw any RV that has that kind of capability, which is only available in certain sports cars like a Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini, or even higher end models with sport mode.
I enjoyed the video; but shouldn't something that size have a backup beeper?
Those are annoying as hell so no.
FishFind3000 that is the point; to alert people that it is moving backwards. People get killed that way, but we don't want to annoy you
Unless both the driver and you are blind and deaf, there not needed. if either party is blind or deaf, they shouldn't be near this thing. When near places where there are vehicles of any size, you should be aware of what's around you.
Do you need a class b to drive one of these?
Not in the US. The GVWR is under 26k lbs
Mbrp RV straight pipe?
I thought about it, I wonder how that would sound lol
Can you drive Toyota Camry
Can you do a startup and test drive a Toyota Camry?
Lol
Some segments in the video are stamped not adjacent to each other
60,000 miles on a 2019 wow
Pushbutton transmissions go back to the 1950s. Ford and Chrysler had them. They were not successful
How were they not successful?
classic287 because they were dropped. For decades
Kevin Barry, Fords did not have them. Edsel had them. Possibly Mercury, Lincoln had them. Chrysler, Plymouth, Dodge had them. Rambler had them.
1:08 Why do diesel engines not idle higher when cold like a petrol engine would?
Because spark plugs are cold compared to glow plugs...
@@classic287 i though petrol cars idled higher to heat up the exhaust?
Not all gasoline engines idle high when cold. An early 2000s Chevrolet truck/SUV with a V8 engine do not idle high when cold. They startup and run at idle, just like a diesel.
MauriceNL, No, It’s so they don’t stall
Diesel engines in North America used to use that approach when electronic engine control first appeared in the late 80's and early 90's, where the engine would jump to a high idle when started cold, and then slowly throttle back to their bare idle as they warmed. I found this to be advantageous only to ensure that the engine got running smoothly on all cylinders, but of course it put some stress on the engine being immediately ramped up to a silly speed before great oil flow has been established. It also lead to excessive emissions, which at that time was not new, but for a computer-managed system, was sort of defeating the purpose of reducing emissions. Anyways, the thinking is different now in today's world of computer-managed diesel engines, and most modern heavy diesel engines no longer jump up to 1000 or 1100 rpm at cold start, but they still do rev slightly above what is considered to be "bare idle" speed, until they hit a pre-determined heat range.
It was about 25 seconds to do 0-50 😂😂
What do you expect for a 35,000+ pound vehicle???? 6 seconds?
Do you need a special license to operate these? I'd be terrified driving something so big lol.
Nope
classic287 murica
Although I don’t have the best info, some states like California do require class B non-commercial license if the trailer is more than 40 feet. Not all states have this requirement, so it’s best to check up with your state’s DMV. The following is a link to the California DMV site on RVs. www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/uploads/2020/06/dl648.pdf
classic287 Well, some states actually.
Kyle Chak, There you go......
Some segments in the video are stamped not adjacent to each other