The backplate holds the relock bolt up when screwed tight, however if one applies any external force to the lock mechanism, the bolt will drop and prevent the door being opened again without cutting or drilling. On some variants there is also a built-in relock bar that interacts with the anti-drill plate, that can also lock the lock bolt permanently in place.
My SG lock has a bad battery compartment Liberty is sending a new lock at no charge. I either DIY or pay a locksmiths $400.00 to install new keypad lock. Looks doable and not out $400!!! Thanks
Nice video - I've had some issues with my keypad here and there - having to enter the combo multiple times, having it stick and not open - that kind of thing. It's nice to know that if things start to get worse, I can do a DIY fix - the SG keypads are actually fairly reasonably priced.
That part with the spring is a relocking feature to prevent someone drilling and destroying your electronic lock. It’s supposed to “fire” and lock your safe at which point a pro would need to open it for you.
Any suggestions on a Cannon gun sfe that seems to be unlocking the handle turns but safe won't open something inside seems to be jammed. It may be overfull blocking mechanism.
We have the same exact issue. No click on the inside when we put in code. We even purchased the master lock code and still does not click. What did you do off camera to get the safe open? I may need to try that..... Thank you!!!!
The part missing as stated is a re-locker. In a puck out attempt on lock or drill out the mechanism it will drop in and lock the slide til cut open. You can (and should) reuse the plate off original lock to keep that function. It is a super simple fail safe. And new mechanism had the same screw holes to mount the plate in the same spot
Your old lock would have worked if you had removed that other locking large pin that you or I don't know the name of. I had the same problem of multiple trys up to 20+ I looked at how the mechanism worked and noticerd the dual drop down pins were working but not the large spring loaded bolt. Instead of removing that large spring loaded bolt pin, I just moved it to the upper hole to stay out of the way. Hope this helps others with the same problem of not opening until numerous tries. Also, try a fresh good Alakline battery. Sometimes, there's just not enough power to make the mechanism work.
I have the same shape I bought new from tractor supply in 2019 last week when I went to open it the shaft connected to the turn handle broke off inside the shape call Cannon took quite a while to give them all the information they wanted to warranty this even a video of the battery then they tell me it will be 15 to 20 days before they get someone to come out and open it I am already going to have another safe a much better one I just want them to open it my advice if something goes wrong and you have a warranty problem go with another company avoid cannon at all costs thank you for your time
Thanks for this video. I have a Liberty safe and the lock needs replaced. It’s a SG lock and looks almost identical to yours. My safe is still under warranty but I can’t get any return calls or emails from Liberty or the locksmith I bought my safe from. Where did you order the keypad from?
You can take the dial lock out following the same general steps here with some minor added steps (lots of videos on youtube). Then to install the key pad the same way. Wayne Winton i think i spelled it right goes into good detail on all the steps
The thingy is a re-locker, and if someone attempts to drill through your safe, or smash out the lock by hitting it with a hammer, the re-locker will snap into place, causing the safe to be permanently locked.
The single battery 6120's (with front loading battery that sits inside a sleeve that slides up from the bottom of the keypad body) have a screw under the "SG" logo sticker at the bottom front of the keypad. Then there's more screws underneath the cover...
Original lock probably would have worked perfectly if you would have loosened all 4 screws on mechanism and wiggled it into alignment and retightened it. Probably thrown together so quick or tweaked in shipping.
Thanks for the info. That silly original lock had been a bugger since day one. More fun to just replace it. And if I screwed it up, I could make a video about how to break into your own safe with a sizable portion of Tannerite!
Cut straight to the chase? Where's the fun and entertainment value in that? Thanks for watching and I might just try to start talking faster if that would work...
@@danielthompson3119 The safes are of fair quality it is the keypad and the support that suck the worse. They never answer the phone, they want to do everything by email so you are locked out of your safe for days!!! Complete BS!!! They need to be shutdown!!!!
I'm afraid I just like to talk😂😂😂. Like my 5 year old daughter said at the dinner table (She's 23 now and in medical school), "You just don't understand...Some people just have to talk". Thanks for the input and thanks for watching.
Хобби
The backplate holds the relock bolt up when screwed tight, however if one applies any external force to the lock mechanism, the bolt will drop and prevent the door being opened again without cutting or drilling. On some variants there is also a built-in relock bar that interacts with the anti-drill plate, that can also lock the lock bolt permanently in place.
My SG lock has a bad battery compartment
Liberty is sending a new lock at no charge. I either DIY or pay a locksmiths $400.00 to install new keypad lock. Looks doable and not out $400!!!
Thanks
Thanks for the video. Very helpful!
Nice video - I've had some issues with my keypad here and there - having to enter the combo multiple times, having it stick and not open - that kind of thing. It's nice to know that if things start to get worse, I can do a DIY fix - the SG keypads are actually fairly reasonably priced.
Thank You, nice job
Great video. I have the same issue with my safe. Could you post a link to the keypad you bought? Thank you
That “thingy” is a RELOCKER. Fool with it out of ignorance and you’ll be locked out forever.
That part with the spring is a relocking feature to prevent someone drilling and destroying your electronic lock. It’s supposed to “fire” and lock your safe at which point a pro would need to open it for you.
Awesome. Thanks for the excellent input. Always wanted to know what that silly thing was and does...I guess it’s going back in...thanks again!
@@DrShankopotamus yeah what he said
Any suggestions on a Cannon gun sfe that seems to be unlocking the handle turns but safe won't open something inside seems to be jammed. It may be overfull blocking mechanism.
We have the same exact issue. No click on the inside when we put in code. We even purchased the master lock code and still does not click. What did you do off camera to get the safe open? I may need to try that..... Thank you!!!!
The part missing as stated is a re-locker. In a puck out attempt on lock or drill out the mechanism it will drop in and lock the slide til cut open.
You can (and should) reuse the plate off original lock to keep that function. It is a super simple fail safe. And new mechanism had the same screw holes to mount the plate in the same spot
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
Thanks!
That lock is also EMP proof for anyone that wants to know
It's the "fiddly farting around" in the beginning that I need to get my Cannon NL locked safe open. Too bad that part was skipped.
Fiddly Fartin Around is the most funnest part...Not sure how to get into your locked safe, either. thanks for watching.
Your old lock would have worked if you had removed that other locking large pin that you or I don't know the name of. I had the same problem of multiple trys up to 20+ I looked at how the mechanism worked and noticerd the dual drop down pins were working but not the large spring loaded bolt. Instead of removing that large spring loaded bolt pin, I just moved it to the upper hole to stay out of the way. Hope this helps others with the same problem of not opening until numerous tries. Also, try a fresh good Alakline battery. Sometimes, there's just not enough power to make the mechanism work.
Thanks for the input and advice. And thanks for watching.
I have the same shape I bought new from tractor supply in 2019 last week when I went to open it the shaft connected to the turn handle broke off inside the shape call Cannon took quite a while to give them all the information they wanted to warranty this even a video of the battery then they tell me it will be 15 to 20 days before they get someone to come out and open it I am already going to have another safe a much better one I just want them to open it my advice if something goes wrong and you have a warranty problem go with another company avoid cannon at all costs thank you for your time
Good luck with your channel
Thank you. It's going fine, but I don't think it's going to fund my retirement!
Thanks for this video. I have a Liberty safe and the lock needs replaced. It’s a SG lock and looks almost identical to yours. My safe is still under warranty but I can’t get any return calls or emails from Liberty or the locksmith I bought my safe from. Where did you order the keypad from?
Lol you should google Liberty safe right now. I think that company is a little busy picking up their PR mess.
Don't recall exactly, but I think they are available online from many retailers. Good luck.
If you can't open your safe because your SG keypad is dysfunctional is there an easy way to remove the keypad and lock externally?
I don't think so...If it was easy to do then the safe wouldn't be very secure. Good luck and thanks for watching...
Iit has batteries and it locked itself and I cannot unlock it how can I need help
Is there any way to convert a combination lock to a key pad lock. Mine has the combination roller and its tedious to use
I would think there might be a way to do it, but it could be more work than it is worth to change out the lock mechanism.
You can take the dial lock out following the same general steps here with some minor added steps (lots of videos on youtube). Then to install the key pad the same way. Wayne Winton i think i spelled it right goes into good detail on all the steps
You left out some of the parts we needed to see.....like wiring the lock mechanism.
Wil this work on a liberty safe?
I'm guessing it should work on any safe with a similar lock. Good luck.
Lol yeah what he said. Without that a thief can knock the lock mechanism off and open your safe
The thingy is a re-locker, and if someone attempts to drill through your safe, or smash out the lock by hitting it with a hammer, the re-locker will snap into place, causing the safe to be permanently locked.
Good to know, thank you! Really couldn't find a good online manual for the innards of these safes.
wish you would show how to remove the key pad , mine will not twist or move up
The single battery 6120's (with front loading battery that sits inside a sleeve that slides up from the bottom of the keypad body) have a screw under the "SG" logo sticker at the bottom front of the keypad. Then there's more screws underneath the cover...
Original lock probably would have worked perfectly if you would have loosened all 4 screws on mechanism and wiggled it into alignment and retightened it. Probably thrown together so quick or tweaked in shipping.
Thanks for the info. That silly original lock had been a bugger since day one. More fun to just replace it. And if I screwed it up, I could make a video about how to break into your own safe with a sizable portion of Tannerite!
@@DrShankopotamus HA! That would be a video worth seeing!
You will definitely not get a shock out of a capacitor charged from a 9V battery. There is no higher voltage in the lock.
I’ll be damned... my digital lock has been failing just like this one for 3 fkn years. What a pos. Just ordered a mechanical replacement.
Sentry safe
Just get on with it already
Cut straight to the chase? Where's the fun and entertainment value in that? Thanks for watching and I might just try to start talking faster if that would work...
Winchester Safes are the worst safes and even worse support!!! DO NOT BUY!!!!
I'm watching now because I have 2 crappy winchester safes from tractor supply
@@danielthompson3119 The safes are of fair quality it is the keypad and the support that suck the worse. They never answer the phone, they want to do everything by email so you are locked out of your safe for days!!! Complete BS!!! They need to be shutdown!!!!
Shut the dam music off
I like your videos, but try not to talk too much and just get to the point faster...will make your video a lot more "watchable"..
I'm afraid I just like to talk😂😂😂. Like my 5 year old daughter said at the dinner table (She's 23 now and in medical school), "You just don't understand...Some people just have to talk". Thanks for the input and thanks for watching.
Por favor traducir al español: Qué vídeo tan RE MALO. otra vez MALÍSIMO. Qué verguenza