I am learning a lot and researching teak toe rail restoration. I visited Pacific Seacraft in Washington, NC and their teak restorer is amazing. The beauty of the teak that she restored was the most beautiful I have ever seen. The teak grain was exquistely viewed through the finish. Professional restorers are a wealth of knowledge. Fair Winds
You had the perfect opportunity to bond the hull and deck together. It is a bit of extra f/g and fairing work. Then build bulwark rails (4" high) mounted about one inch above the deck to brackets welded to the stanchion bases ala Hal Roth on Whisper. This eliminates a lot of holes altogether and gives a nice high bulwark rail against which to brace your feet. With the added bonus of no standing water on deck, even if you are in heavier sailing conditions. And the rail can be used as an infinitely adjustable genoa track by using a rope strop and a block.
The main reason I installed the toe rails now is because their absence leave a considerable access point for water that is hard to keep out even with tarps. I want as little water getting inside while I build the interior. As for the deck, I am planning on covering them with a plastic-teak decking material so wont be doing any finishing on them.
The second plug cutter is better. If you cut deeper, the plugs will come out with a round-over on top that allows them to be inserted easier. In Teak, the plug cutter will lose it's temper and dull faster. If you cool the cutter in a cup of water every few plugs, it will stay sharper much longer,
That's the idea... You need to keep water out, not tools. If you ever have to remove the plugs you drill them. As log as he keeps up with the varnish there should never be a reason to drill the plugs.
before you get a BeTter IdEa :( might seek some expert council; epoxying in the plugs, not bedding the rail, not finishing the deck and applying the bedded and at least partially finishes rail. Fake teak, really why? You have skill, initiative and a wonderful opportunity don't bugger it with what you think. What you lack is experience. Modern marine construction has at it's core centuries of tried and true techniques. Sadly I fear if you leave this rail as it is it will haunt you forever, this also is true for the entire project going forward. Best wishes John /
Um, no.... He did it exactly right. If you ever have to remove them you drill them. Epoxy is the only way to keep the water out and prevent crevice corrosion of the stainless screws.
Old School vs. New School, either way works but epoxy is superior at preventing water intrusion. Varnish works well but it will break down over time. Don't take my word for it, there are dozens of citations in books as well as videos here by restoration experts using this technique. All of the bungs I have replaced because they were rotted out had been put in with varnish or some other type of non-waterproof glue, typically the fastener was also trashed because of the water ingress.
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I am learning a lot and researching teak toe rail restoration.
I visited Pacific Seacraft in Washington, NC and their teak restorer is amazing. The beauty of the teak that she restored was the most beautiful I have ever seen. The teak grain was exquistely viewed through the finish. Professional restorers are a wealth of knowledge.
Fair Winds
You had the perfect opportunity to bond the hull and deck together. It is a bit of extra f/g and fairing work. Then build bulwark rails (4" high) mounted about one inch above the deck to brackets welded to the stanchion bases ala Hal Roth on Whisper. This eliminates a lot of holes altogether and gives a nice high bulwark rail against which to brace your feet. With the added bonus of no standing water on deck, even if you are in heavier sailing conditions. And the rail can be used as an infinitely adjustable genoa track by using a rope strop and a block.
I enjoyed your video
Question: Why install the toe rail before painting the deck? It seems like a fresh coat on the entire deck would be better. Don’t know for sure.
The main reason I installed the toe rails now is because their absence leave a considerable access point for water that is hard to keep out even with tarps. I want as little water getting inside while I build the interior. As for the deck, I am planning on covering them with a plastic-teak decking material so wont be doing any finishing on them.
I'd bed the rails with bedding compound like 3M 5200 aswell as the plugs. But only after throughly checking the hull-deck joint.
The second plug cutter is better. If you cut deeper, the plugs will come out with a round-over on top that allows them to be inserted easier. In Teak, the plug cutter will lose it's temper and dull faster. If you cool the cutter in a cup of water every few plugs, it will stay sharper much longer,
I'd make the toe rail or any thing else that you attach to the deck the last things you do....you need to paint or gel coat finish First...
I know these are old post, why no workbench or saw horses? You will never have access to those screws again!
That's the idea... You need to keep water out, not tools. If you ever have to remove the plugs you drill them. As log as he keeps up with the varnish there should never be a reason to drill the plugs.
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Workbenches? Your back will thank you. Plus more accuracy, leverage etc., etc.,
before you get a BeTter IdEa :( might seek some expert council; epoxying in the plugs, not bedding the rail, not finishing the deck and applying the bedded and at least partially finishes rail. Fake teak, really why? You have skill, initiative and a wonderful opportunity don't bugger it with what you think. What you lack is experience. Modern marine construction has at it's core centuries of tried and true techniques. Sadly I fear if you leave this rail as it is it will haunt you forever, this also is true for the entire project going forward. Best wishes John
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Bad move, you should not epoxy the plugs in. Now you will never be able to remove them without destroying them and the toe rail.
Um, no.... He did it exactly right. If you ever have to remove them you drill them. Epoxy is the only way to keep the water out and prevent crevice corrosion of the stainless screws.
Actually, the correct way to put them in is with varnish. Keeps the water out and they can be removed.
Old School vs. New School, either way works but epoxy is superior at preventing water intrusion. Varnish works well but it will break down over time. Don't take my word for it, there are dozens of citations in books as well as videos here by restoration experts using this technique. All of the bungs I have replaced because they were rotted out had been put in with varnish or some other type of non-waterproof glue, typically the fastener was also trashed because of the water ingress.
i think.. dude u just solve the problems but not in the better way... just fix slightly.
..emm.. your boat, your time..
i dont understand the complexity