Thank you very much for following me on this journey! Thanks for the support, all the comments and tips :) I know there will be a lot of questions about things that I did not cover in this video so here you have the answers: 0. Check out my store if you want to buy parts for this project: indystry.cc/store/ 1. Price! An obvious question, how much did it all cost? You can easily build exactly the same machine as mine for less than $1000. It all depends on where you source the parts and most importantly how much you paid for steel plates (more on that in point number 2). Is it a lot? I don’t think so, especially when you compare it to other commercial options available. Something that I also didn’t mention in the video is that you can actually start with a less expensive setup that is easy to upgrade later (you can easily attach Nema 23 or Nema 17 to X and Y axis, there are mounts for both motors combined in every plate except Z axis, if you use Nema17 you can go with GRBL shield and smaller stepper motor drivers, smaller power supply and so on). You can even start with trapezoidal lead screws on each axis and later upgrade to much more expensive ball screws. You can easily save about $200 dollars that way and have a rigid, upgradable machine! 2. IndyMill plates for sale! But not yet. I got my first prototype of those plates, cut out of 6 mm steel with powder coating just a few days ago. I already know that 6 mm is more than strong enough for such CNC, but I have to go through some more testing, experiment with the final color, pricing, shipping, and safe packing. No worries, it is close to being finished and I will let you know once those are ready to buy through the newsletter (you can sign up at indystry.cc) and maybe I will make a video about the small-batch production process. Sounds cool? 3. I ordered more IndyShields and hopefully, you should be able to buy them again on Tindie next week. 4. How about another IndyMill test video? I want to mill some more things and show you what this machine is capable of. And of course, it will be just fun to mill some more things :) Any ideas on what to mill? 5. Working area is about 520x400x115mm That’s it I think. If you have any more questions feel free to ask, I read every single comment. Thanks again for everything, don’t forget to check out indystry.cc and IndyMill build instruction!
Dear Nikodem, first of all thank you for this intresting Project. I started now to order the parts for my own Indymill. One thing I am really struggling with is that your 2080 and 2040 Profiles are the chinese profiles, meaning that they are more or less Item profiles but with a 6mm channel which is originally not available in europe. This means that no shop in europe provides the ready cutted profiles. I will work now with the 5mm Channels I-Typ hoping that the M5 Screws for the connections are enough. I have one question,you used 666mm profiles with the 650mm lead screw. While you use in the other axis 600mm profile with a 600mm leadscrew. Do you adapt the missing 16mm with the coupling? BEacuse the rest of the design looks for me as it would be the same in both axis.
Great work! Just a hint: when milling wood, specially pinus, you can greatly reduce the necessity of post processing by simply performing a single last pass on the reverse direction of cut. Just clone your path and set it to cut in the opposite direction. Maybe it may be useful for you.
@@nikodembartnik CAST acrylic mills much better than EXTRUDED acrylic. Cost a little more but worth it. For aluminum 6061 will mill the best. dont' even try 3003 alloy aluminum unless you buy a special negative rake bit, otherwise it will just get clogged and break.
Wouldn't this introduce issues with dimensional accuracy? Acrylic, like many other materials, is subject to dimensional change due to thermal expansion and contraction. Is the scale simply too small to notice?
Neversink Makes .that is a good point. The project I was working on didn't require specific tolerances so the freezer method worked for me. I did try it at room temperature and had severe clogging. So my answer is ,I can't say for sure.
Stunning machine, and as always, excellent video. I believe the following will improve your aluminium cuts: 1) Use an air blast to clear chips from the cut. The blobs that weld to the end of your cutter are chips from previous cuts that melt during repeated re-cuts. A chip that is no longer there is a chip that cannot melt onto your cutter! A simple fence made from box-cardboard, or thin MDF can stop almost all of the chips from messing up the whole workshop! 2) Use 6061 or similar "free-cutting" grade of aluminium. The hardware store grade alloys are formulated to be extruded through a die, and this also makes them stick to your cutter. 3) If you have to use material that sticks to your cutter, a "fog buster" lube system may be the answer, but it does add more mess, smells, damage, etc to your operation. Can't wait for your next project... thanks so much!
Came here to say that. Milling cutters really don't like plowing through swarf (chips). It would not be too hard to arrange a light weight air nozzle that is right next to the cutting tip. You could make it even more effective by putting a travelling vac nozzle on the other side of the cutting tool. Aluminum responds great to a light cutting oil, but as you noted, that increases the mess factor by 20x. And, although the effect is less pronounced with much softer workpieces like wood, finish quality and reliability and precision all improve with automated chip removal using air plus vac nozzles tied to the cutting head. Plus it reduces the mess factor by 75%. Keep up the outstanding work Nikodem! Can't emphasize that enough.
When milling aluminum I would highly recommend using cutting oil as well as forced air. You will notice that cutting not only goes a lot easier, but the finish is also so much better!
You don't need forced air. Also some drops of Ethanol/ Spiritus is sufficient for this type of milling and has the great property of evaporating, so you won't have a mess afterwards. (Wood wasteboard and oil is also a bad idea, just saying)
@@jerzyszczepanski2518 I'm a machinist and work every day with cnc machines. You don't need compressed air, i wouldn't even recommend it for a small desktop CNC. You can simply use a paint brush to evacuade the chips while milling and use some drops of ethanol, just as i said 2 years ago.
In your video it looks like, that you put your ER11 collet in to the spindel befor puting it in to the nut. Thats not how you should install an ER collet. You should put your collet in to the Nut befor putting it in the spindel. When you look in to your Nut you schould see an oval, behind that is a shampfer. You press your collet in to your nut. If you tourn your nut upsidedown and your collet dosent fal out. You did it right. After that you can install your tool.
No worries I installed it properly :) I was recording the video and then I've remembered that I am doing it wrong so I did it the proper way but forgot to shoot that so I used this footage, good that you noticed, thanks for comment
Marc Krüger I struggled with this issue for a few days before I figure it out, you are exactly correct. Couldn’t figure out why my bit would not run true lol. That was why.
Great work!! Im a CNC Machinist and CNC tool and cutter grinder. One piece of advice is with to use 2 flute endmills for your aluminum work and use drills for entry point into workpiece, also slow way down milling through inside corners. when your mill is engaged on a larger percent of its diameter its gonna bind and break with little torque behind it.
Great video! It looks like, in the high speed of aluminum, you were getting a lot of flex in your spindle. If you raise the spindle so the spindle mount is closer to the collet it will increase rigidity. There's a lot of leverage right now between the mount and the tip of the bit. Your smaller bits won't break as easily if you shorten that distance.
I noticed you are not seating your ER11 collets in the nut properly. If you seat the collet into the essentric hole in the nut, the collet will clamp down better around the mill bit. But great machine!! Keep up the great projects! I think I will make one at some point!
Wow! When I saw this project and u genuinely share it I find it myself that I'm amaze with what u are going, enjoying journey with your building project, incorporate what's in your head,creating a system, building,had a lot of test for finding what's the best approach to happen the results u wanted 😊😊😊 More power and more amazing project you will MAKE! Happy making!
There are bits for aluminum which work fairly well with softwoods, but two flutes, please. Also plastic bits work well, many are one flute, but can give an excellent finish at the spindle speeds you can get to. There are also wood bits for routers, if you can get shanks that will fit your spindle. Some Dremel-like bits are of good quality. Don’t use regular burrs, or bits for steel. If you mill aluminum, you should use a thin cutting oil. You can go to the information sources for milling which will tell you the chip load per tooth. This isn’t a guessing game. You really need to know this. The motor really needs two mount clamps. Any metal, and many plastics, will cause a lot of vibration. Plastic also needs carbide cutters or the edges will wear quickly. I do like the machine though. You did an excellent job.
Because you are so kind to share your ideas, here is mine. Make a version of this that is VERTICALLY orientated and can be mounted on a wall (onto a wooden backplate). This has a few benefits: 1. It will save space; 2. It can be larger in size or can be placed on top of a workspace/piece; 3. All dirt produced falls down by law of gravity and can be easily collected and nicer cuts because of clean surface; 4. (Large) plates can be easily mounted vertically; 5. A wall is very solid support structure; 6. You can use a simple curtain to keep away the dirt from spreading into environment when operating. What do you think about this? I think you doesn't have to change much because the head already has a great solid design (wormgear) to be able to go up and down instead of going forward and backwards. Let me know what you think.
When changing collets always fit the collet to the nut first, the way you did it inserting the collet into the machine then the nut afterwards can distort the collet and the bit will not sit right, inserting the collet into the nut first you will feel it clip in when presented about 45 degrees and then straighten it up you will find it seats right and get much less runout in the bit.
Great video, though one tip... the collet. Put it in the ring/nut first (at an angle, then press it straight, it should *click* in there), and then put it in the spindle. If you power the ring/nut on it with brute force sooner or later you're gonna break something....
Great Project. I only know the german names from my vocational training. I hope this helps anyway. Aluminum is a smeary Material when it get hot. Using Spiritus to cooling it was teached us heavily. Just a splash from time to time. Otherwhise you can get a "Aufbauschneide", that ruins the workpiece surface and can break the drill. (If you already get one on the drill, dont grind it of. Break it with preassure against a piece of metall.) Also, the direction of milling is important. If the driver spindle has too much play, or cant stand the preassure, the drill can be sucked into the Material an can break. Please search for "Gleichlauf und Gegenlauf Fräsen". Milling in drill spin direction, and against. Both Methods has benefits in stability and surface quality. I am sure these Tips may improve youre results. Keep on that great work.
Awesome work, Nikodem! Have you considered selling the IndyMill as a kit (or maybe even pre-assembled)? I think lots of makers might want to use an open-source CNC like this in their workshops. Selling the machine could be a way to get some return on the investment (both time and money-wise) you made on developing this project.
Risky. It could be a trap for Nikodem. "lots of people might want" means nothing from a commercial point of view. Sympathy had never made business. Engagement, conversely is a honest start. If a bunch of viewers do want to buy a pre-assembled CNC, they should sign a kind of warrant that they won't change their minds some time after. It's crucial for Nikodem to exactly know how many guys are REALLY I mean SERIOUSLY interested in buying his stuff. Assuming "lots of makers" as you said, might want etc... etc... is JUST an opinion.
I'm sure he's had the thought, if he bulk orders parts and can sell it at a price point of 1k there's definitely a market opportunity since everything at that price point doesn't have reliability or as great of a working space.
Merci pour vos vidéos de très bonne qualité.Tout paraît si facile avec vous..... même si je ne comprend pas tout car mon Anglais est limité ; je vais toujours au bout car les images suffisent .Merci beaucoup d'épauler nos rêves et d'instruire nos projets.
I usually dab Castrol stick wax on the cutter while its running, to help keep aluminum from sticking or melting into the flutes, also using air to keep the chips from jamming up the cutter. Wd40 helps in a pinch when doing short runs.
09:40 The problem is not that aluminium is gummy at low speeds, it has to do with the rigidity of the tool. If you had a tool with a shorter cutting shank and positioned it closer to the collet, then there would be no leverage to flex the tool when the aluminium bytes. Also, some lube would help rob the shavings of their heat and keep them from getting sticky. Lemmino what you think.
Best endmills for wood are the ones designed for acrilic plastics. 1 Flute downcut mills, and they don't need to be sharp for cutting wood. What i usually do is use them for acrílic untill the cut starts to yield poor cut surface then i just use them for wood
You made a comment about the inside surface finish of your first job: this is also due to the fact that you are milling softwood, which is common in Russia as it is here in Canada. I have used software for many routing projects and you will never get fine features from it because the grain is too loose and it will tear out easily during post-processing. This is not a fault of your machine! The same thing will happen if you use an old-style router table with softwood. If you want fine features, try a hardwood like Oak or MDF. The Beech and Birch species are also common in your region and should not be very expensive.
Hi Nikodem, I really enjoyed your videos. I even bought my own 3d printer and started building my own CNC Dremel machine. When that's finished I am definitely also going to try to create the indymill project. I already ordered your IndyShield boards. I would really be interested in the steal plates as well. Hope you can make a some money by selling these parts. You definitely deserve some payment for al the great work you have been doing. It's also very nice to see you working together with you dad sometimes. He must be so proud of your achievements! Keep up the great work!
I saw this guy cut acrylic with an electric saw and cooled it with a bottle of water with a hole in the lid and squirted it on the cut. Still looked superb, well done 🙃
I would suggest trying conventional milling when working with wood. I know it's counter-intuitive, because climb milling usually gives better surface finish. But that's when working with metals. With wood it is the opposite.
Tracisz na jakości przez te tanie wrzeciono. Swego czasu rozkręcałem je 4x dziennie by wymieniać szczotki ;D jest nie do zajechania, bo to zwykły silnik DC, ale łożyska osadzone są na gumowych tulejach wewnątrz metalowych końcówek wrzeciona więc mogą bez problemu pracować na boki, także luzy pojawią się prędzej czy później. Do tego ukręcił mi się wał, musiałem go skracać wraz z całą obudową. Na szczęście zrobił to w miejscu które umożliwiało ponowne uruchomienie wrzeciona po 3 godzinach pracy przy nim (skracanie obudowy itp). Kup używane wrzeciono 0.5kW i falownik do niego, wydasz jakieś 800zł a efekt będzie kosmiczny.
Don't put the collet inside the motor shaft when installing a new one. Put it into the nut, it will click in THEN you can screw it back on and insert the endmill. To remove it just simply push it out
Your mill looks really well made. I have long wanted to get into CNC milling and I am intending to build my own. But seeing this it looks exactly the sort of thing I was intending to build. I just have to find the time now. Thanks for sharing.
Kilka małych rad: Jeżeli nie masz sztywności całego układu - staraj się eliminować ryzyko wibracji - Frez powinien wystawać z oprawki tylko tyle ile potrzebujesz np. jeżeli jest to aluminium 4mm to wyciągasz freza z oprawki na 6-7mm - aby mieć nieco luzu. Kiedyś przeczytałem że zmniejszenie wysięgu freza o 20% redukuje drgania o 80% - nie wiem czy te wartości to prawda ale na pewno jest w tym sporo racji. Staraj się unikać frezów jednopiórowych - mają one naturalną skłonność do wpadania w wibrację ponieważ środek ciężkości nie leży w osi obrotu. O wiele lepszym rozwiązaniem będzie frez 2-piórowy który jest symetryczny i wywołuje mniejsze wibracje. Dodatkowo jeżeli frezujesz taki kawałek aluminium jak na tym filmie (element z otworami) to dobrą praktyką na tego typu maszynach jest wykonanie otworu w pierwszej kolejności - następnie przez te otwory dajesz wkręty z podkładami i nie musisz robić mostków które później są upierdliwe w wycinaniu i wygładzaniu. Polecam też w celu poprawienia jakości krawędzi aby robić najpierw przejazd (konturu) frezem który daje nam szybkie efekty (np. frez jednopiórowy gdzie jest sporo miejsca na urobek - polecam frezy do obróbki zgrubno-wykańczającej albo zgrubnej. Szkoda używać freza finiszowego do "orania") w offsecie zewnętrznym np. 0,05mm-0,1mm a następnie zmieniamy frez na finiszowy i jedziemy w przeciwnym kierunku niż do tej pory i próbujemy na pełnej głębokości - zbieramy wtedy tylko 0,05-0,1mm materiału na szerokości więc można sobie pozwolić aby frezować na pełną głębokość materiału. Oczywiście nie zawsze się udaje i trzeba jednak nawet finisz robić na kilka razy ale zawsze opłaca się to robić jeżeli interesuje nas dobra jakość krawędzi ciętych. Jeżeli mowa o obróbce aluminium to trzeba zwracać jaki gatunek obrabiamy - jest tego sporo i część jest typowo do obróbki skrawaniem a część do obróbki plastycznej także trzeba o tym pamiętać. Może pokusisz się także o chłodzenie obszaru roboczego, nie koniecznie mówię tutaj o dołożeniu chłodzenia mgłą olejową czy nawet powietrzem ale warto zamoczyć frez przed rozpoczęciem pracy w gęstym smarze, nawet w wazelinie i psiknąć "WD-40" w czasie obróbki kilka razy - powinno pomóc przy zaklejaniu się rowka wiórowego :) Świetna robota, Pozdrawiam
That spindle uses a grub screw to attach the er adapter to a relatively small shank on the motor; this creates compounding accuracy issues and loss of rigidity. Get a cheap 800w Spindle with inverter and choke up on the tool more :)
Nice build. The next tool I'm adding to my shop will be a cnc router. I have been debating building or buying one. I might just build one of these! Good Work!
Dude, nice work. you router is hanging way too low, for cutting wood its fine however when you go and start cutting aluminum you need rigidity and few more things in order to cut aluminum well. lower your mounting plate of the Z axis down so its in the middle of the column. also you need to use a 2 or 3 flute ZRN coated carbide endmills and you need air nozzle to blow chips from the cut that's why you have a buildup on your endmill. also change your cutting recipe and used Fusion to calculate the cutting speeds based on the tool data or you can lookup any manufacturer they post their feeds and speeds and SFM . good luck.
I really enjoyed your little series on building the Indymill. Keep on making good content. I would have built a bigger z-axis and grbl mega 5x, so that you can add a 4th and even 5th axis.
FYI. To high a feedrate when you were cutting alu. #2 you need coolant and lubricant. ALU use varsol. Or you will be breaking tools and wearing them out quickly. Oh Ya and Use HSS cutters. Get you self a feeds and speed guide per material.
Try a 2 flute .250 dia x .5 flute length. You also need to make a low pressure spray mister to put a tiny amount of coolant directly on the cutter. At high speeds the aluminum will weld to the cutter.
Some thoughts... 1: swap out the main mounting board for something waterproof. A section of laminate countertop material will do (although aluminum tooling plate would be better). Then... 2: add a minimum-quantity-lubrication system, and load it up with a non-toxic aluminum cutting fluid. Lastly, 3: add some T-slot extrusions to the mounting board for use with T-bolts & clamps. These come already setup for integrating into woodworking tables; as well as the 4-sided ones you used to build the frame from. 🤔
Ten kanał i projekty które robisz to chyba jedna z najlepszych rzeczy jakie znalazłem na RUclips. Mega szacunek. Studiujesz budowę maszyn/mechatronikę?
Hello. I enjoyed this whole series especially your explanations. Keep it up. You are doing a great job. I just cannot fathom the "thumb down/dislike"?? Must be jealousy from others.
Hey Nikodem, I love your CNC vieos and you actually inspired me to build my own dremel CNC. I don´t have a 3d printer, so I built mine from scrapwood after creating a 3d model in fusion and it works great :D I am currently working on making it better by using parts I mill myself from wood and I hope you could do something similar with your machines (just maybe with aluminium). Thank you for giving me this awesome Idea and for all those nice videos and greetings from Germany
Hi Nikodem, its a great CNC u built here. I ordered your steel plates and all other parts from different suppliers. I sent you a mail about the 3D plastic printed parts because i cant make those. I will replace them later with aluminium onces when de machine is ready :) I have been researching the internet and for this money you cant get any better than your setup. Great piece of work, thank you mate. If you like, i can make PCB's with programmed Atmel chip on it, to get rid of the Uno.
Great build, but I would suggest a few changes to increase rigidity which should increase performance. I would guess that if you pulled on the bottom of the spindle motor the gantry will flex. 1) Mount an aluminum plate to the back of your gantry attached to the upper and lower aluminum channels. This shouldn't increase the weight of your machine significantly but it will be much more rigid. 2) The Z-axis should be mounted as low as possible while still clearing your side rails, this will reduce your Z-axis capacity but it will allow you to mount the spindle motor higher and still reach your table. The spindle motor is too low in its mount in the current configuration. 3) Center the spindle motor mount on its carrier plate to equalize the load on the rail slides. Again, this is a great build, I'm just suggesting a few changes.
Do you have any info on the rigidity of the frame? On my chineese 3020 CNC I used a dial indicator attached to the machine's table. A rod inserted in the spindle was touching the tip of the indicator. Then I applied 1Kg force to that rod to see how far it will move - the force was measured by household scales. Don't remember exact numbers, but I can repeat the measurements. Did this when upgraded the machine to ball screws.
tremendo trabajo, te sigo desde el que hiciste a partir de un 3018 impreso en 3d, mucho tiempo ha pasado, pero culminar con un aparato tan completo como este , le haz invertido mucho de tu vida, mi respeto y saludos desde mexico cdmx.
Your video came up in my news feed for some reason so I pushed play. Proper talent. Nice construction . I’m going to watch all of your previous videos now. Great to see up and coming engineers starting out. You’re definitely going places buddy.
Spray urethane on that soft wood, amazing detail. Can you mill steel if you change the milling beads to diamond and set your speed to one fifth or whatever?
Przy frezowaniu aluminium stosuj chłodziwo np aceton, denaturat lub jak niektórzy proponują wd-40. Do frezowania aluminium dobre sa polerowane frezy 2 lub 3 piorowe. Na alledrogo sa fajne za 30zl :p Zauważyłem tez ze zagłębienie freza przy jednorazowym przejeździe jest zbyt duże. Ja stosuje podpatrzona w poradniku zasadę: frez 3mm-zagłębienie 0,3mm, frez 4mm-zagłębienie 0,4 itd. Oczywiście nie trzymam się tego sztywno bo czasami dodaje +0,1mm na przejazd aby zaoszczędzić czas. Stosujac te wytyczne mozna spokojnie zwiększyc prędkość posuwu. Ja na swojej maszynie z niskiej półki przy wyżej podanych zagłębieniach frezuje 350-400 mm/min
just finished watching the videos for a second time. last time i was waiting for a new shed so that i would have space to complete some projects.....and now tht it has arrived i think that the CNC is first on the list...though i might just double the extrusion lengths and screws to give me a 1M square bed.....might avoid rebuilds in the future..... anything i should add in if will the existing design scale up?
Witam. aby uniknac lamania malej srednicy frezow powinienes zmniejszyc dystans pomiedzy lozyskiem silnika a koncem freza aby uniknac tak zwanego Flex in your setup. Mocowanie Silnika tez powinno byc na wysokosci obydwu lozysk. A poza tym super Ci idzie. I beda z Ciebie ludzie!! 👍
Hello Nikodem, we have decided to build your amazing IndyMill, however we decided that we would like to use 1.5 kW spindle. Because of that we need to remodel some parts (for example spindle plate part). Also the 1.5 kW spindle has a different dimensions so maybe there will also be a need to remodel some other parts - I cant tell yet. But perhaps you could provide the whole assembly model, the one that you have on the main page of your "Build instruction" ebook. I know that what I am asking is a great deal - you have spent a lot of time on this one. However you yourself want to make it open source and this would really help us a lot! Of course we will share all the remodeled parts and our experience with the 1.5 kW spindle once we are done building. Could you please share the whole assembly project in CAD so we can use it to remodel parts and adapt Indymill for 1.5 kW spindle? Best regards from Czech Republic
Awesome project, I'm either going to build a Dremel CNC or an IndyMill for sure. It's nice to see you're benefiting from trying different cutters. Watching your earliest Dremel videos I was thinking your machine would benefit a lot from using cutters more suitable for the individual materials. Especially aluminium, which is "sticky", as you found yourself at 9:20 . A bit of oil or WD40 would work wonders.
Greetings. Your problem with aluminum is cooling. The aluminum sticks to the tool. Try spilling a little alcohol solution on your part and you will see big difference. Also if you do not have cooling try smaller depth steps an faster feeding speeds. And yes, you are correct saying that these tools are cheap and bad quality.
My CNC design is almost finished, using a Dewalt router, N23's. Using a more symmetrical design to hold the router, everyone goes with the same design I believe has some flaws when cutting.
Question: Are cross cut saws illegal in Europe? You are the second (and brilliant) European RUclipsr who doesn’t use a crosscut saw when it would clearly improve efficiency. It’s my understanding that dado stacks are illegal in at least some countries so maybe crosscut saws? Amazing build!
great build, im thinking of 3d printing the plates and then upgrading to aluminum parts that the 3d printed version will probably be able to manufacture
Hello Nikodem; first, thanks for sharing such an excellent project. About the Steel Parts, which you show in the video at 1:14, I know you shared in DXF files but neither in the video nor in the files show cutting measures and drilling measures. Thanks
Ho Nikodem, very nice passion,, congratulations I world like to built a cnc and your projects are very good. I would like mill pcb. I Was wondering if dremel cnc precision is enologhi or i need an indymill wich i suppose is more precise Thank you
I have an Xcarve i'm using with aluminum and i need to use small bits for some of the finer features but with a little lubrication i never gum up the bits if i don't try and go too fast, i never tried going faster though, aluminum tends to heat up and stick to bits so i cant see how going faster works and also a larger bit at the same speed has a different surface feeds and speeds to consider .. still impressive results.. i have even cut steel with small features on my Xcarv,,..its definitely not as sturdy as yours looks but if i get the settings right it does just fine with plenty of patience. still i'm looking for something a little more industrial and thinking of overbuilding my own new CNC.
I hate to see some dislikes given to this guy. Why? There is only 1 in 1000 young people who can understand and talk about this stuff, and then only 1 out of 100 of those can actually build something (Yes, I am talking about North America where everyone seems to talk only about business).
I have been looking at many NileRed video's lately and what came up in my head was setting up the CNC in an enclosed box with extraction. Why... fumes, noise, tiny materials, scientist look/advanced/futuristic look, safety.. \_o_/ - great job on this, love the video.
Awesome job. I've been watching this project for a while and the results look fantastic. As soon as I can find a space in the workshop I'll be getting one!
so how big can this frame be elongated to? Making the Y axis longer should be pretty easy. The x axis might need a back plate of metal bolted to the top and bottom rails to stiffen it up? could it go 900x900mm without major modifications? 600x600 is pretty small.
good morning, very nice video. thanks for the inspiration. quick and silly question, do you have a complete part list to purchase in order to build my own cnc? i went into the link below but the excel file is quite confusing me. not sure what i need to buy..... sorry
Hey there. This is one of the nicest CNC's I've seen made to date. I have all the gear to build my own but it's sitting in a box in my workshop. I have gotten a lot of inspiration from seeing ur video man. I'm not tech savvy so I kinda struggle with the electronics side. I have the motors, Nema 23's, stepper motors, etc and power supply also. I need to swat up on how to build it and make it work. Would mack-3 be ok or is there something better. I bought Arduino too and have lots of extra parts as well. How many power supply's did u use for this build? I have 3 different ones. I have a similar spindle to ur one there but I cannot change the collet out of it. It's only a 1/8 collet stuck in it. Can u buy those collet nuts for those spindle machines? Mine is the exact same as ur one but the fan atop of urs is different. I saw u used the larger rod outside the frame? What size rod was that? It looked big and those linear rails would be better than my cheaper belts and pulleys system.. I get that much anyways.. LOL Brilliant build my friend. Look forward to seeing more of those build videos..
Thank you very much for following me on this journey! Thanks for the support, all the comments and tips :) I know there will be a lot of questions about things that I did not cover in this video so here you have the answers:
0. Check out my store if you want to buy parts for this project: indystry.cc/store/
1. Price! An obvious question, how much did it all cost? You can easily build exactly the same machine as mine for less than $1000. It all depends on where you source the parts and most importantly how much you paid for steel plates (more on that in point number 2). Is it a lot? I don’t think so, especially when you compare it to other commercial options available. Something that I also didn’t mention in the video is that you can actually start with a less expensive setup that is easy to upgrade later (you can easily attach Nema 23 or Nema 17 to X and Y axis, there are mounts for both motors combined in every plate except Z axis, if you use Nema17 you can go with GRBL shield and smaller stepper motor drivers, smaller power supply and so on). You can even start with trapezoidal lead screws on each axis and later upgrade to much more expensive ball screws. You can easily save about $200 dollars that way and have a rigid, upgradable machine!
2. IndyMill plates for sale! But not yet. I got my first prototype of those plates, cut out of 6 mm steel with powder coating just a few days ago. I already know that 6 mm is more than strong enough for such CNC, but I have to go through some more testing, experiment with the final color, pricing, shipping, and safe packing. No worries, it is close to being finished and I will let you know once those are ready to buy through the newsletter (you can sign up at indystry.cc) and maybe I will make a video about the small-batch production process. Sounds cool?
3. I ordered more IndyShields and hopefully, you should be able to buy them again on Tindie next week.
4. How about another IndyMill test video? I want to mill some more things and show you what this machine is capable of. And of course, it will be just fun to mill some more things :) Any ideas on what to mill?
5. Working area is about 520x400x115mm
That’s it I think. If you have any more questions feel free to ask, I read every single comment. Thanks again for everything, don’t forget to check out indystry.cc and IndyMill build instruction!
Mill an instrument... like an electric guitar! :)
Wait... Nikodem, have you tried milling pcbs with any of your CNCs?
@@an-yr7gk I just did that on my diy cnc made an egen8 copy and if you are interested in some free files looks at the laguna cnc strat
look in to compression cutters, they help a lot with fuzzy edges in wood, almost leaving no fuzz at all
@@sammiller5509
Yes thats how they're called.
Also I think just straight 2 flutes.
But I think he said he was just waiting for them to arrive.
Dear Nikodem,
first of all thank you for this intresting Project. I started now to order the parts for my own Indymill. One thing I am really struggling with is that your 2080 and 2040 Profiles are the chinese profiles, meaning that they are more or less Item profiles but with a 6mm channel which is originally not available in europe. This means that no shop in europe provides the ready cutted profiles. I will work now with the 5mm Channels I-Typ hoping that the M5 Screws for the connections are enough.
I have one question,you used 666mm profiles with the 650mm lead screw. While you use in the other axis 600mm profile with a 600mm leadscrew. Do you adapt the missing 16mm with the coupling? BEacuse the rest of the design looks for me as it would be the same in both axis.
Great work! Just a hint: when milling wood, specially pinus, you can greatly reduce the necessity of post processing by simply performing a single last pass on the reverse direction of cut. Just clone your path and set it to cut in the opposite direction. Maybe it may be useful for you.
What bit should be used for milling wood?
Before I mill acrylic, I put it in the freezer to get it cold. The smaller bit don't clog up so much. Glad to see you're enjoying your cnc.
Nice idea, need to buy a freezer for my workshop :)
@@nikodembartnik CAST acrylic mills much better than EXTRUDED acrylic. Cost a little more but worth it. For aluminum 6061 will mill the best. dont' even try 3003 alloy aluminum unless you buy a special negative rake bit, otherwise it will just get clogged and break.
Rolland Elliott i just clicked the comment button to say that, but I very soon realised that you had already suggested this. 🤣🤣 Nice 👍.
Wouldn't this introduce issues with dimensional accuracy? Acrylic, like many other materials, is subject to dimensional change due to thermal expansion and contraction. Is the scale simply too small to notice?
Neversink Makes .that is a good point. The project I was working on didn't require specific tolerances so the freezer method worked for me. I did try it at room temperature and had severe clogging. So my answer is ,I can't say for sure.
Stunning machine, and as always, excellent video. I believe the following will improve your aluminium cuts:
1) Use an air blast to clear chips from the cut. The blobs that weld to the end of your cutter are chips from previous cuts that melt during repeated re-cuts. A chip that is no longer there is a chip that cannot melt onto your cutter! A simple fence made from box-cardboard, or thin MDF can stop almost all of the chips from messing up the whole workshop!
2) Use 6061 or similar "free-cutting" grade of aluminium. The hardware store grade alloys are formulated to be extruded through a die, and this also makes them stick to your cutter.
3) If you have to use material that sticks to your cutter, a "fog buster" lube system may be the answer, but it does add more mess, smells, damage, etc to your operation.
Can't wait for your next project... thanks so much!
Came here to say that. Milling cutters really don't like plowing through swarf (chips). It would not be too hard to arrange a light weight air nozzle that is right next to the cutting tip. You could make it even more effective by putting a travelling vac nozzle on the other side of the cutting tool. Aluminum responds great to a light cutting oil, but as you noted, that increases the mess factor by 20x.
And, although the effect is less pronounced with much softer workpieces like wood, finish quality and reliability and precision all improve with automated chip removal using air plus vac nozzles tied to the cutting head. Plus it reduces the mess factor by 75%.
Keep up the outstanding work Nikodem! Can't emphasize that enough.
@@solarguy6043 : I knew there was something I left out of my comment - the vacuum shoe is a "no-brainer" addition for almost all materials! 👍
When milling aluminum I would highly recommend using cutting oil as well as forced air.
You will notice that cutting not only goes a lot easier, but the finish is also so much better!
You don't need forced air. Also some drops of Ethanol/ Spiritus is sufficient for this type of milling and has the great property of evaporating, so you won't have a mess afterwards. (Wood wasteboard and oil is also a bad idea, just saying)
@@rayly7291 You do need forced air or high pressure cooling media to evacuate swarf. otherways it gets in the cut again and again.
@@jerzyszczepanski2518 I'm a machinist and work every day with cnc machines. You don't need compressed air, i wouldn't even recommend it for a small desktop CNC. You can simply use a paint brush to evacuade the chips while milling and use some drops of ethanol, just as i said 2 years ago.
In your video it looks like, that you put your ER11 collet in to the spindel befor puting it in to the nut. Thats not how you should install an ER collet. You should put your collet in to the Nut befor putting it in the spindel. When you look in to your Nut you schould see an oval, behind that is a shampfer. You press your collet in to your nut. If you tourn your nut upsidedown and your collet dosent fal out. You did it right. After that you can install your tool.
No worries I installed it properly :) I was recording the video and then I've remembered that I am doing it wrong so I did it the proper way but forgot to shoot that so I used this footage, good that you noticed, thanks for comment
Marc Krüger I struggled with this issue for a few days before I figure it out, you are exactly correct. Couldn’t figure out why my bit would not run true lol. That was why.
Great work!! Im a CNC Machinist and CNC tool and cutter grinder. One piece of advice is with to use 2 flute endmills for your aluminum work and use drills for entry point into workpiece, also slow way down milling through inside corners. when your mill is engaged on a larger percent of its diameter its gonna bind and break with little torque behind it.
You're amazing man, please never stop sharing your pasion! I'll start designing my CNC and your project is truly inspiring.
Great video! It looks like, in the high speed of aluminum, you were getting a lot of flex in your spindle. If you raise the spindle so the spindle mount is closer to the collet it will increase rigidity. There's a lot of leverage right now between the mount and the tip of the bit. Your smaller bits won't break as easily if you shorten that distance.
You're my hero, I always wanted to create a CNC machine with a decent work volume. May you be generously blessed in life!
I'm a mechanical engineering student in Australia and I appreciate your videos, you're an inspiration!
U may like this
ruclips.net/video/TZuK2f2Y2vg/видео.html
I noticed you are not seating your ER11 collets in the nut properly. If you seat the collet into the essentric hole in the nut, the collet will clamp down better around the mill bit. But great machine!! Keep up the great projects! I think I will make one at some point!
Wow! When I saw this project and u genuinely share it I find it myself that I'm amaze with what u are going, enjoying journey with your building project, incorporate what's in your head,creating a system, building,had a lot of test for finding what's the best approach to happen the results u wanted 😊😊😊
More power and more amazing project you will MAKE!
Happy making!
There are bits for aluminum which work fairly well with softwoods, but two flutes, please. Also plastic bits work well, many are one flute, but can give an excellent finish at the spindle speeds you can get to. There are also wood bits for routers, if you can get shanks that will fit your spindle. Some Dremel-like bits are of good quality. Don’t use regular burrs, or bits for steel. If you mill aluminum, you should use a thin cutting oil. You can go to the information sources for milling which will tell you the chip load per tooth. This isn’t a guessing game. You really need to know this.
The motor really needs two mount clamps. Any metal, and many plastics, will cause a lot of vibration. Plastic also needs carbide cutters or the edges will wear quickly.
I do like the machine though. You did an excellent job.
Because you are so kind to share your ideas, here is mine. Make a version of this that is VERTICALLY orientated and can be mounted on a wall (onto a wooden backplate). This has a few benefits:
1. It will save space;
2. It can be larger in size or can be placed on top of a workspace/piece;
3. All dirt produced falls down by law of gravity and can be easily collected and nicer cuts because of clean surface;
4. (Large) plates can be easily mounted vertically;
5. A wall is very solid support structure;
6. You can use a simple curtain to keep away the dirt from spreading into environment when operating.
What do you think about this? I think you doesn't have to change much because the head already has a great solid design (wormgear) to be able to go up and down instead of going forward and backwards. Let me know what you think.
When changing collets always fit the collet to the nut first, the way you did it inserting the collet into the machine then the nut afterwards can distort the collet and the bit will not sit right, inserting the collet into the nut first you will feel it clip in when presented about 45 degrees and then straighten it up you will find it seats right and get much less runout in the bit.
Great video, though one tip... the collet. Put it in the ring/nut first (at an angle, then press it straight, it should *click* in there), and then put it in the spindle. If you power the ring/nut on it with brute force sooner or later you're gonna break something....
Great Project. I only know the german names from my vocational training. I hope this helps anyway.
Aluminum is a smeary Material when it get hot. Using Spiritus to cooling it was teached us heavily. Just a splash from time to time. Otherwhise you can get a "Aufbauschneide", that ruins the workpiece surface and can break the drill. (If you already get one on the drill, dont grind it of. Break it with preassure against a piece of metall.)
Also, the direction of milling is important. If the driver spindle has too much play, or cant stand the preassure, the drill can be sucked into the Material an can break. Please search for "Gleichlauf und Gegenlauf Fräsen". Milling in drill spin direction, and against. Both Methods has benefits in stability and surface quality.
I am sure these Tips may improve youre results. Keep on that great work.
Awesome work, Nikodem! Have you considered selling the IndyMill as a kit (or maybe even pre-assembled)? I think lots of makers might want to use an open-source CNC like this in their workshops. Selling the machine could be a way to get some return on the investment (both time and money-wise) you made on developing this project.
Risky. It could be a trap for Nikodem. "lots of people might want" means nothing from a commercial point of view. Sympathy had never made business. Engagement, conversely is a honest start. If a bunch of viewers do want to buy a pre-assembled CNC, they should sign a kind of warrant that they won't change their minds some time after. It's crucial for Nikodem to exactly know how many guys are REALLY I mean SERIOUSLY interested in buying his stuff. Assuming "lots of makers" as you said, might want etc... etc... is JUST an opinion.
@@joetke Did you heard about pre-order system?
I'm sure he's had the thought, if he bulk orders parts and can sell it at a price point of 1k there's definitely a market opportunity since everything at that price point doesn't have reliability or as great of a working space.
Merci pour vos vidéos de très bonne qualité.Tout paraît si facile avec vous..... même si je ne comprend pas tout car mon Anglais est limité ; je vais toujours au bout car les images suffisent .Merci beaucoup d'épauler nos rêves et d'instruire nos projets.
I usually dab Castrol stick wax on the cutter while its running, to help keep aluminum from sticking or melting into the flutes, also using air to keep the chips from jamming up the cutter. Wd40 helps in a pinch when doing short runs.
09:40 The problem is not that aluminium is gummy at low speeds, it has to do with the rigidity of the tool. If you had a tool with a shorter cutting shank and positioned it closer to the collet, then there would be no leverage to flex the tool when the aluminium bytes. Also, some lube would help rob the shavings of their heat and keep them from getting sticky. Lemmino what you think.
Squirt bottle with turps in it works a treat until you build your own mister
Best endmills for wood are the ones designed for acrilic plastics.
1 Flute downcut mills, and they don't need to be sharp for cutting wood. What i usually do is use them for acrílic untill the cut starts to yield poor cut surface then i just use them for wood
You made a comment about the inside surface finish of your first job: this is also due to the fact that you are milling softwood, which is common in Russia as it is here in Canada. I have used software for many routing projects and you will never get fine features from it because the grain is too loose and it will tear out easily during post-processing.
This is not a fault of your machine! The same thing will happen if you use an old-style router table with softwood. If you want fine features, try a hardwood like Oak or MDF. The Beech and Birch species are also common in your region and should not be very expensive.
What an incredible random thing to pop up in my rec feed, subbed.
Thanks!
This is amazing, you just inspired me to build a CNC machine myself.
Hi Nikodem, I really enjoyed your videos. I even bought my own 3d printer and started building my own CNC Dremel machine. When that's finished I am definitely also going to try to create the indymill project. I already ordered your IndyShield boards. I would really be interested in the steal plates as well. Hope you can make a some money by selling these parts. You definitely deserve some payment for al the great work you have been doing. It's also very nice to see you working together with you dad sometimes. He must be so proud of your achievements! Keep up the great work!
I saw this guy cut acrylic with an electric saw and cooled it with a bottle of water with a hole in the lid and squirted it on the cut. Still looked superb, well done 🙃
Hi from Mexico Nikodem, great job. which is the final cost of the CNC?
Estoy por terminarla y van aproximadamente 16 mil pesos
So it looks like 16000 pesos is just under $800 US. Thank you for sharing !
I would suggest trying conventional milling when working with wood. I know it's counter-intuitive, because climb milling usually gives better surface finish. But that's when working with metals. With wood it is the opposite.
Tracisz na jakości przez te tanie wrzeciono. Swego czasu rozkręcałem je 4x dziennie by wymieniać szczotki ;D jest nie do zajechania, bo to zwykły silnik DC, ale łożyska osadzone są na gumowych tulejach wewnątrz metalowych końcówek wrzeciona więc mogą bez problemu pracować na boki, także luzy pojawią się prędzej czy później. Do tego ukręcił mi się wał, musiałem go skracać wraz z całą obudową. Na szczęście zrobił to w miejscu które umożliwiało ponowne uruchomienie wrzeciona po 3 godzinach pracy przy nim (skracanie obudowy itp). Kup używane wrzeciono 0.5kW i falownik do niego, wydasz jakieś 800zł a efekt będzie kosmiczny.
You remind me of Josef Prusa. Keep it up. The world will recognize you soon!
Don't put the collet inside the motor shaft when installing a new one. Put it into the nut, it will click in THEN you can screw it back on and insert the endmill. To remove it just simply push it out
Your mill looks really well made. I have long wanted to get into CNC milling and I am intending to build my own. But seeing this it looks exactly the sort of thing I was intending to build. I just have to find the time now. Thanks for sharing.
Kilka małych rad:
Jeżeli nie masz sztywności całego układu - staraj się eliminować ryzyko wibracji - Frez powinien wystawać z oprawki tylko tyle ile potrzebujesz np. jeżeli jest to aluminium 4mm to wyciągasz freza z oprawki na 6-7mm - aby mieć nieco luzu. Kiedyś przeczytałem że zmniejszenie wysięgu freza o 20% redukuje drgania o 80% - nie wiem czy te wartości to prawda ale na pewno jest w tym sporo racji. Staraj się unikać frezów jednopiórowych - mają one naturalną skłonność do wpadania w wibrację ponieważ środek ciężkości nie leży w osi obrotu. O wiele lepszym rozwiązaniem będzie frez 2-piórowy który jest symetryczny i wywołuje mniejsze wibracje. Dodatkowo jeżeli frezujesz taki kawałek aluminium jak na tym filmie (element z otworami) to dobrą praktyką na tego typu maszynach jest wykonanie otworu w pierwszej kolejności - następnie przez te otwory dajesz wkręty z podkładami i nie musisz robić mostków które później są upierdliwe w wycinaniu i wygładzaniu. Polecam też w celu poprawienia jakości krawędzi aby robić najpierw przejazd (konturu) frezem który daje nam szybkie efekty (np. frez jednopiórowy gdzie jest sporo miejsca na urobek - polecam frezy do obróbki zgrubno-wykańczającej albo zgrubnej. Szkoda używać freza finiszowego do "orania") w offsecie zewnętrznym np. 0,05mm-0,1mm a następnie zmieniamy frez na finiszowy i jedziemy w przeciwnym kierunku niż do tej pory i próbujemy na pełnej głębokości - zbieramy wtedy tylko 0,05-0,1mm materiału na szerokości więc można sobie pozwolić aby frezować na pełną głębokość materiału. Oczywiście nie zawsze się udaje i trzeba jednak nawet finisz robić na kilka razy ale zawsze opłaca się to robić jeżeli interesuje nas dobra jakość krawędzi ciętych.
Jeżeli mowa o obróbce aluminium to trzeba zwracać jaki gatunek obrabiamy - jest tego sporo i część jest typowo do obróbki skrawaniem a część do obróbki plastycznej także trzeba o tym pamiętać. Może pokusisz się także o chłodzenie obszaru roboczego, nie koniecznie mówię tutaj o dołożeniu chłodzenia mgłą olejową czy nawet powietrzem ale warto zamoczyć frez przed rozpoczęciem pracy w gęstym smarze, nawet w wazelinie i psiknąć "WD-40" w czasie obróbki kilka razy - powinno pomóc przy zaklejaniu się rowka wiórowego :)
Świetna robota,
Pozdrawiam
Dear Nikodem you have to be proud of your inventive and capability to make such a nice milling machine. :-)
WWWOOOOOOOWW! Congratulations, great video, so nice to see a project like this workout. And your milling aluminum too, that's fantastic, thank you.
That spindle uses a grub screw to attach the er adapter to a relatively small shank on the motor; this creates compounding accuracy issues and loss of rigidity. Get a cheap 800w Spindle with inverter and choke up on the tool more :)
Well done Nikodem! It's been a fantastic project. End result is very good. I will be looking to make an IndiMill.
Thank you! Good luck with the build :)
You're an Awesome young man! I wish you the best!!!
Nice build.
The next tool I'm adding to my shop will be a cnc router.
I have been debating building or buying one.
I might just build one of these!
Good Work!
Nice cuts on the acrylic. Looks almost as good as laser cut.
Awsome machine. Great to also see it milling metals! I have found that milling metals is a whole other game compaired to woods and plastics.
I can't wait for the things you will create in the future, I'm excited and keep it up!!!!
Me to man
Me too dudes!
Dude, nice work. you router is hanging way too low, for cutting wood its fine however when you go and start cutting aluminum you need rigidity and few more things in order to cut aluminum well. lower your mounting plate of the Z axis down so its in the middle of the column. also you need to use a 2 or 3 flute ZRN coated carbide endmills and you need air nozzle to blow chips from the cut that's why you have a buildup on your endmill. also change your cutting recipe and used Fusion to calculate the cutting speeds based on the tool data or you can lookup any manufacturer they post their feeds and speeds and SFM . good luck.
your series is the best diy series in the world ;)
Bravo Niko! And thank for sharing your work to the community for free. A lot of work. Congratulations !!
I really enjoyed your little series on building the Indymill. Keep on making good content. I would have built a bigger z-axis and grbl mega 5x, so that you can add a 4th and even 5th axis.
I follow your videos and projects with great interesting. I like as you explain them and your passion is tangible. Never stop believing!!!
FYI. To high a feedrate when you were cutting alu. #2 you need coolant and lubricant. ALU use varsol. Or you will be breaking tools and wearing them out quickly. Oh Ya and Use HSS cutters. Get you self a feeds and speed guide per material.
Try a 2 flute .250 dia x .5 flute length. You also need to make a low pressure spray mister to put a tiny amount of coolant directly on the cutter. At high speeds the aluminum will weld to the cutter.
Some thoughts... 1: swap out the main mounting board for something waterproof. A section of laminate countertop material will do (although aluminum tooling plate would be better). Then... 2: add a minimum-quantity-lubrication system, and load it up with a non-toxic aluminum cutting fluid. Lastly, 3: add some T-slot extrusions to the mounting board for use with T-bolts & clamps. These come already setup for integrating into woodworking tables; as well as the 4-sided ones you used to build the frame from. 🤔
You are my role model started my own cnc project because of you :)
hahah, thanks!
Ten kanał i projekty które robisz to chyba jedna z najlepszych rzeczy jakie znalazłem na RUclips. Mega szacunek. Studiujesz budowę maszyn/mechatronikę?
Hello. I enjoyed this whole series especially your explanations. Keep it up. You are doing a great job. I just cannot fathom the "thumb down/dislike"?? Must be jealousy from others.
Hey Nikodem, I love your CNC vieos and you actually inspired me to build my own dremel CNC. I don´t have a 3d printer, so I built mine from scrapwood after creating a 3d model in fusion and it works great :D I am currently working on making it better by using parts I mill myself from wood and I hope you could do something similar with your machines (just maybe with aluminium).
Thank you for giving me this awesome Idea and for all those nice videos and greetings from Germany
Fajny warsztat! Cieszę się, że Cie odkryłem ;)
Hi Nikodem, its a great CNC u built here. I ordered your steel plates and all other parts from different suppliers. I sent you a mail about the 3D plastic printed parts because i cant make those. I will replace them later with aluminium onces when de machine is ready :)
I have been researching the internet and for this money you cant get any better than your setup. Great piece of work, thank you mate.
If you like, i can make PCB's with programmed Atmel chip on it, to get rid of the Uno.
Great build, but I would suggest a few changes to increase rigidity which should increase performance. I would guess that if you pulled on the bottom of the spindle motor the gantry will flex.
1) Mount an aluminum plate to the back of your gantry attached to the upper and lower aluminum channels. This shouldn't increase the weight of your machine significantly but it will be much more rigid.
2) The Z-axis should be mounted as low as possible while still clearing your side rails, this will reduce your Z-axis capacity but it will allow you to mount the spindle motor higher and still reach your table. The spindle motor is too low in its mount in the current configuration.
3) Center the spindle motor mount on its carrier plate to equalize the load on the rail slides.
Again, this is a great build, I'm just suggesting a few changes.
Is there a cad file of the cnc that I can work on? I'm looking to implement a few mods before starting to build.
CONGRATULATIONS FROM SPAIN!! I have a similar machine like yours and it's incredible :)
You demonstrated that you can mill acrylic with this machine, but can you also mill poly carbonate with a nice finish with this machine?
Do you have any info on the rigidity of the frame? On my chineese 3020 CNC I used a dial indicator attached to the machine's table. A rod inserted in the spindle was touching the tip of the indicator. Then I applied 1Kg force to that rod to see how far it will move - the force was measured by household scales. Don't remember exact numbers, but I can repeat the measurements. Did this when upgraded the machine to ball screws.
I bought it based on how much I've got from your amazing videos to date. Many thanks 👍
Thanks a lot!
tremendo trabajo, te sigo desde el que hiciste a partir de un 3018 impreso en 3d, mucho tiempo ha pasado, pero culminar con un aparato tan completo como este , le haz invertido mucho de tu vida, mi respeto y saludos desde mexico cdmx.
Your video came up in my news feed for some reason so I pushed play. Proper talent. Nice construction . I’m going to watch all of your previous videos now. Great to see up and coming engineers starting out. You’re definitely going places buddy.
Spray urethane on that soft wood, amazing detail. Can you mill steel if you change the milling beads to diamond and set your speed to one fifth or whatever?
Good afternoon. Try a wood cutter with chips thrown down. It should give an edge without fringe.
Hey man, just ordered some parts from your site. hope all goes well with shipping. can't wait to build.
Thanks a lot! I can see your order and it will be shipped out soon!
@@nikodembartnik parts received in good order. Thanks a lot,
Przy frezowaniu aluminium stosuj chłodziwo np aceton, denaturat lub jak niektórzy proponują wd-40. Do frezowania aluminium dobre sa polerowane frezy 2 lub 3 piorowe. Na alledrogo sa fajne za 30zl :p Zauważyłem tez ze zagłębienie freza przy jednorazowym przejeździe jest zbyt duże. Ja stosuje podpatrzona w poradniku zasadę: frez 3mm-zagłębienie 0,3mm, frez 4mm-zagłębienie 0,4 itd. Oczywiście nie trzymam się tego sztywno bo czasami dodaje +0,1mm na przejazd aby zaoszczędzić czas. Stosujac te wytyczne mozna spokojnie zwiększyc prędkość posuwu. Ja na swojej maszynie z niskiej półki przy wyżej podanych zagłębieniach frezuje 350-400 mm/min
Respect, well done. Thank you for sharing your amazing design.
just finished watching the videos for a second time. last time i was waiting for a new shed so that i would have space to complete some projects.....and now tht it has arrived i think that the CNC is first on the list...though i might just double the extrusion lengths and screws to give me a 1M square bed.....might avoid rebuilds in the future..... anything i should add in if will the existing design scale up?
Witam. aby uniknac lamania malej srednicy frezow powinienes zmniejszyc dystans pomiedzy lozyskiem silnika a koncem freza aby uniknac tak zwanego Flex in your setup. Mocowanie Silnika tez powinno byc na wysokosci obydwu lozysk. A poza tym super Ci idzie. I beda z Ciebie ludzie!! 👍
Hello Nikodem,
we have decided to build your amazing IndyMill, however we decided that we would like to use 1.5 kW spindle.
Because of that we need to remodel some parts (for example spindle plate part). Also the 1.5 kW spindle has a different dimensions so maybe there will also be a need to remodel some other parts - I cant tell yet. But perhaps you could provide the whole assembly model, the one that you have on the main page of your "Build instruction" ebook.
I know that what I am asking is a great deal - you have spent a lot of time on this one. However you yourself want to make it open source and this would really help us a lot! Of course we will share all the remodeled parts and our experience with the 1.5 kW spindle once we are done building.
Could you please share the whole assembly project in CAD so we can use it to remodel parts and adapt Indymill for 1.5 kW spindle?
Best regards from Czech Republic
hey I just wanna say thank you
Awesome project, I'm either going to build a Dremel CNC or an IndyMill for sure.
It's nice to see you're benefiting from trying different cutters. Watching your earliest Dremel videos I was thinking your machine would benefit a lot from using cutters more suitable for the individual materials. Especially aluminium, which is "sticky", as you found yourself at 9:20 .
A bit of oil or WD40 would work wonders.
Its better to build avid cnc type ..indimill or Dremel is not sturdy compared to avid cnc
You can see here ruclips.net/video/TZuK2f2Y2vg/видео.html
Greetings. Your problem with aluminum is cooling. The aluminum sticks to the tool. Try spilling a little alcohol solution on your part and you will see big difference. Also if you do not have cooling try smaller depth steps an faster feeding speeds. And yes, you are correct saying that these tools are cheap and bad quality.
Great job! You need a dust boot and a box to contain chips and dust.
I feel so proud of him and we are not even related 😅
I'm very excited to get started on my Indy Mill. I ordered the PDF on-line yesterday but have not received a download link. When should I expect that?
My CNC design is almost finished, using a Dewalt router, N23's. Using a more symmetrical design to hold the router, everyone goes with the same design I believe has some flaws when cutting.
Question: Are cross cut saws illegal in Europe? You are the second (and brilliant) European RUclipsr who doesn’t use a crosscut saw when it would clearly improve efficiency. It’s my understanding that dado stacks are illegal in at least some countries so maybe crosscut saws? Amazing build!
great build, im thinking of 3d printing the plates and then upgrading to aluminum parts that the 3d printed version will probably be able to manufacture
Hello Nikodem; first, thanks for sharing such an excellent project. About the Steel Parts, which you show in the video at 1:14, I know you shared in DXF files but neither in the video nor in the files show cutting measures and drilling measures. Thanks
Ho Nikodem, very nice passion,, congratulations
I world like to built a cnc and your projects are very good. I would like mill pcb.
I Was wondering if dremel cnc precision is enologhi or i need an indymill wich i suppose is more precise
Thank you
I have an Xcarve i'm using with aluminum and i need to use small bits for some of the finer features but with a little lubrication i never gum up the bits if i don't try and go too fast, i never tried going faster though, aluminum tends to heat up and stick to bits so i cant see how going faster works and also a larger bit at the same speed has a different surface feeds and speeds to consider .. still impressive results.. i have even cut steel with small features on my Xcarv,,..its definitely not as sturdy as yours looks but if i get the settings right it does just fine with plenty of patience. still i'm looking for something a little more industrial and thinking of overbuilding my own new CNC.
I hate to see some dislikes given to this guy. Why? There is only 1 in 1000 young people who can understand and talk about this stuff, and then only 1 out of 100 of those can actually build something (Yes, I am talking about North America where everyone seems to talk only about business).
To skip a bunch of post processing work on wood, you could try a compression end mill
DIY CNC Machine makes aluminium ?? great video please continue
I have been looking at many NileRed video's lately and what came up in my head was setting up the CNC in an enclosed box with extraction. Why... fumes, noise, tiny materials, scientist look/advanced/futuristic look, safety.. \_o_/ - great job on this, love the video.
This is so exciting to see.
Great job, Nikodem!
Awesome job. I've been watching this project for a while and the results look fantastic. As soon as I can find a space in the workshop I'll be getting one!
Awesome, can't wait to see your build!
so how big can this frame be elongated to? Making the Y axis longer should be pretty easy. The x axis might need a back plate of metal bolted to the top and bottom rails to stiffen it up? could it go 900x900mm without major modifications? 600x600 is pretty small.
...i like your choice of music (background)...really gets you into a 'nerdy' mood... other tutorials have 'crappy' beats... so annoying...
you need cold air for milling some plastics,blowing on cutter.
good morning,
very nice video. thanks for the inspiration. quick and silly question, do you have a complete part list to purchase in order to build my own cnc? i went into the link below but the excel file is quite confusing me. not sure what i need to buy..... sorry
Awesome. Look for down cut endmills, they can help with surface engraving. Wood should get less hairy.
use for soft stuff a downcut bit it makes the edge nicer
Thank you. Is there a way to double or triple the work area? Any suggestions?
Hey there. This is one of the nicest CNC's I've seen made to date. I have all the gear to build my own but it's sitting in a box in my workshop.
I have gotten a lot of inspiration from seeing ur video man.
I'm not tech savvy so I kinda struggle with the electronics side. I have the motors, Nema 23's, stepper motors, etc and power supply also.
I need to swat up on how to build it and make it work. Would mack-3 be ok or is there something better.
I bought Arduino too and have lots of extra parts as well.
How many power supply's did u use for this build?
I have 3 different ones.
I have a similar spindle to ur one there but I cannot change the collet out of it. It's only a 1/8 collet stuck in it. Can u buy those collet nuts for those spindle machines? Mine is the exact same as ur one but the fan atop of urs is different.
I saw u used the larger rod outside the frame? What size rod was that? It looked big and those linear rails would be better than my cheaper belts and pulleys system..
I get that much anyways.. LOL
Brilliant build my friend. Look forward to seeing more of those build videos..