Nikodem, you are simply a young genius engineer. As an old man that I am, I would say your parents must be really proud of you. The job you are doing is really a dream and wish you all the success you rightly deserve. Please keep it up. I will try to go into your list of parts to see if it is economically viable for me as at 73 years I can only do so much, but since I have been looking out for such a project for some time I would love to go for it. Best of luck to you and wish you great success in the future. Regards, Saviour from Malta
🇨🇦/🇺🇸... Well said, Saviour! I've been FEELING old at 64 and have been working on doing things to exercise both body and mind! I live in a small apartment and had build the MPCNC (Mostly Printed CNC) but it is too big for my modest means and don't have a big worktable for it! So, I'm thinking about a smaller CNC. It's been a year since you posted. I hope you are doing well and that you built this machine! :-)
Great video. The best upgrades I ever did to my CNC machine were a) a full enclosure which dramatically cuts down the noise b) closed loop steppers made the machine consistently accurate and c) a water-cooled spindle. Having said that, You’ve inspired me to try some of your ideas as well. Thanks.
For your own safety, I recommend you use a 4-wire cable as the yellow-green should be connected to ground on the spindle! If it goes wrong, your whole machine can become live!
Believe it or not, this spindle design has no earth cable but relies on being earthed through its connection to the frame! The frame should be earthed. I also think that the manual says not to connect an earthing cable......somwthing about an earthing loop......
@@highjuice The problem is that cheap diy frames are often made of aluminium extrusions. They are anodised, which means when you bolt them together, they have no electrical conductivity, unless you sand/grind through the oxide layer.
You have a vision to make money but at the same time you are thinking about the rest of us that can't afford an expensive already built machine. Best wishes!!!
i had a good laugh when you started to explain the strange symptoms you experienced with the freshly installed spindle.. it was nice to see that I'm not alone with that mistake :)
Hi Niko, I have a recommendation for you. Based on my experience in building and using my CNC. I found that the gantry, if you only use the aluminum extrusions and linear rails, is considerably strong, but when you use a heavy spindle or the spindle is under heavy loads, it tends to bow for the weight and twist under load (less than a milimiter, but translate in larger movements in the cutting tool). This is not gona make imposible to use the machine, but it´s gona be a little bit more imprecise that what is capable. There is a lot of potencial solutions to this problem, but mine for speed and moneay was simply adding a backplate with M6 screws to the extrusions. You can even screw it to the side panels for the other axis to make it more rigid.
if i wanted to run a larger frame, do you think it would work to weld a steel framework and attach the extruded aluminum rails to that for added strength? im researching building a 4x4' CNC
@@beardedgaming1337If you have the possibility of welding, I will recommend you don't use aluminum extrusions at all. Aluminum extrusions are great for modular and cheaper machines, also are straight that is not always easy to get, but are not the strongest. Yes, you can use both if you want to add strength to the extrusions, but is gona be weacker than just steel. You can even use regtangular tubing for that, only make sure that the wall thickness is thicker enough, and maybe you will need to make flat the faces you will put the rails with lapping.
Another video packed with mouth-watering stuff, thanks Nikodem. It is a long way from Poland to my home in New Zealand, yet at 6:40 you are moving your machine on a folding work table identical to the two I have in my workshop! Our planet gets smaller every day. :o)
you're a clever young man. The Indymill project has inspired me to build my own Nema-23 based CNC. I've acquired all the C-Beam and v-slot extruded aluminum for the frame and gantry. The next step will be to 3D print all the braces. So excited to see how it turns out.
These are some of my favorite videos! Once I have the funds, I will be making one of these for myself. I don't know how practical for at home machining this is, but I cut aluminum daily at work and we use alcohol for cooling. We get a 200 proof ethyl alcohol in 55gal barrels that we go through probably too fast, but we are full production producing over a million units a year.
Spraying the area to be cut with a silicone lubricant aerosol can make a noticable difference to cuts, even though it has been allowed to dry. This avoids ruining wooden beds etc.. It is obviously not as good as a proper lube system, but still worth the effort. Watch out for your feet... parts remain slippery!
Check if your VFD has Modbus digital interface terminals… most similar VFDs do. It will give you full digital control of the VFD using a cheap USB to RS485 dongle. Set RPM precisely, start/stop/reverse, you can even read the spindle amps in real time to give you a 0-100% spindle load display. Much nicer solution than PWM! Also, get some ferrite beads on those spindle cables, it will help reduce EMI which can erroneously trigger limit sensors etc.
Jak zwykle super! Przy maszynach małej sztywności obróbkę wykańczającą warto puścić przeciwbieżnie. Przy wykańczaniu ustawiam 2-4 krotnie mniejszy posuw i przybranie boczne około 0,2mm i wychodziło niemal lusterko, oczywiście nie może podejść żaden wiór, bo przytrze powierzchnię i będzie matowa, ale jak masz mgłę olejową, to ona super usuwa wióry. Zwróć też uwagę, żeby frez był możliwie najkrótszy i jak najbardziej schowany w tulejkę, to zdecydowanie poprawia sztywność. U siebie ten falownik mam podłączony bezpośrednio do komputera przez konwerter USB-RS485 i przez plugin do Mach3 steruje włączaniem wyłaczaniem i prędkościami z poziomu Gcodu. Bardzo wygodne, tylko jak będziesz robił safety, to styki grzybka puść do falownika też. Pozdrawiam i powodzenia
This project is really nice! I have a similar 230v Spindle in my machine and you can easily use your (old) 10V circuit to control this one, but it can also be switched to 5V (PD071 is the parameter I think). You need to have a relay to connect FOR to DCM to turn it on though, and there is no spindle on/off pin on grbl 1.1, only PWM speed control. You can however recompile grbl in the Arduino IDE and set a parameter to remove the spindle direction pin and make it an off/on pin to control the relay. The parameter is USE_SPINDLE_DIR_AS_ENABLE_PIN in the config.h file.
The biggest problem with the 500W Spindle (aside from some EMI issues) are the bearings. They are usually using 2 8mm skateboard bearings that are fittet in rubber caps in the motor lids to compensate for bad tolerances which result in too much give in the spindle. I made it better by making a separate spindle with better bearing system that then is driven by the motor over a belt. The 500W performannce is enough for most things in my experience.
Two comments regarding your little pcb with the LM358. 1) add bypass capacitors to the +/- 12v rails. two caps each 0.1uf parallel with 4.7uf 2) do not leave the second op amp unconnected. connect - input to the output, and connect + input to ground. If these things are not done even the simple circuit may mis-behave, oscillate,...
Hello. After watching this, I have a suggestion. You should add the spindle controller circuit to a new model Indyshield. The original Indyshield is great, but it has some limitations, and a minor flaw. I propose a larger more powerful version. It starts with the capabilities of the first, but with the following changes and additions. 1) Add the spindle controller circuit. Instead of a separate independent circuit board for spindle control. Add the circuit to a larger more capable Indyshield. 2) Additional "A" axis. I believe grbl also allows for a 4th axis. Adding a 4th axis would allow for more advanced milling. 3) Move the VIN and end stop posts. They interfere with the arduino USB and power terminals. There are ways to mitigate this, but consider moving them. 4) Additional end stop posts. I may be wrong, but I believe grbl allows for two independent circuits for end stops. This may be useful in some instances. 5) Do not limit the shield size, if the shield needs to be larger to accommodate the changes, so be it. The original Indyshield is great for the DremelCNC, but your IndyMill has advanced beyond that, and while the Indyshield will drive the basic Indymill quite capably, a more capable shield will allow for more advanced milling.
Great video! I was inspired to build my own cnc, and also made a few upgrades. Something I would Really recommend is replacing the PC with a rasberry pi, maybe your next upgrade?
Why did the old 6600 drivers were unreliable?? The should support the voltage of the new power supply ok and the current of the motors just ok, I’m about to buy the drivers and don’t know if I should get the upgraded ones or not because were I live the 556 cost 3 times more than the 6600
nice project machine is looking good, just an idea for you if you mount a small solenoid piston above the oil can you should be able to automate when oil is dispensed.
A camera for remote monitoring, and a web control interface would be pretty cool. Like octoprint, but for cnc milling. You're doing awesome work, and I really like the videos. Also the weird bit for flush mounting screws is a countersink bit.
Yeah, I would definitely recommend adding proper crimp connectors. Not only is it not safe for you, people could start to assume this is the correct way.
I have the same cheap automatic wire stripper/crimper he used im the video and it even has crimp connectors included in the package. The first thing I did with it, when I bought it, that I upgraded all of my internal connections in my 3d printer.
Great stuff! I’m just getting my big cnc working order. One question: what was those small wires from the spindle cables that seemed to connect to each other on spindle end? Seemed odd and interesting at the same time. Something to do with interference? I’m having some interference problems from the spindle to limit sensor inputs.
I believe you are talking about the power cables. They need to be at least 22 awg wire. It's a 3 phase spindle so 3 power wires. Believe it or not but this spindle doesn't have an earthing cable....... It is earthed through the spindle body connection to the frame...... Which needs to be earthed! Your interference may be a result of your spindle having an earthing cable and therefore requiring a shielded cable to prevent noise.
Funny how a such a drastically improved, ergonomic solution can stall by our brains, wanting the perfect design. Happens to me all the time, "should've done that ages ago" solutions!
Hi Niko, I designed my own DIY CNC KR8 based on your Indymill & put in the 1.5kw spindle with GRBL control through a Pwm to 10v analogue board and ran into noise issue. If you use limit switches and use homing, the noise from the VFD will cause GRBL to give false hard limit or soft limit alarm. Because of this, I just ordered optically isolated PWM to 10v board to isolate the noise from the VFD to the Arduino board. Are you experiencing any noise issue after switching to the 1.5kw spindle with VFD control ?
Quick correction... The controller for the spindle isn't an inverter, because it isn't converting DC into ac... It's called a VFD it's the bigger brother of the well know ESC
Great work , i love your videos, they do are very inspiring, i will be soon building a cnc like yours very soon, just wanted to ask you, what would be the largest working area for a cnc like this using nema 23 motors? you think 1x1 meter would work well ? or 1.3x1.3 meter? thank you
so that parts list you have on the site: does it have these upgrades in it? i want to CNC wood and aluminum in 4x4' area. id like to run 48v system i think, given its faster and such. i do not own a 3d printer (thats next) but i own bandsaws, plasma cutter, router tables, and mig welder. so id be find welding framework and such. what is your recommendation to build a good system here? thanks
great video, great mods. Only thing to improve is your coolant. Use Isopropanol instead of wd40, it has way better cooling abilities and on top of that it's cheeper. (Alu only, don't use it with steel because of the fire risk)
When you switched to 36V power supply, did you do something with the power to the Aurdino board? Can the Aurdino board work with 36V or have you used a voltage regulator? Thanks for answer
Siema! Co to za system szufladek w którym trzymasz wszystkie śrubki? Jakiś gotowiec, albo samoróbka? Fajny pomysł, muszę u siebie uporządkować drobnicę :) Pozdrawiam!
Nice video, cool to see how you are tackling your cnc. I do think that bracket that you showed at @18:05 looks a bit weak! Also there is no backslash nut on it aren't you afraid it is going to vibrate in the z height?
I like the 1.5kw spindle upgrade. On your DXF file have you considered having holes for both the 500w and 1.5kw spindle option, or have an option for two dedicated plates? Maybe you could have three plate options 500w, 1.5kw and custom drill plate. Also are you planning on having more steel plates kits on your website in the near future.
Hey Nikodem, I really love your videos and the IndyMill build, I think I am ready to start my build but I wanted to check is there a sizing guide for the Indymill if I want to build make a unit with a larger build volume? What is the build volume of your machine?
Hi Niko. I have a Shapeoko XL and your light idea appeals to me. Have you perfected the light. If so can one be made to fit? Thanks in advance, Michael
Hi, great video. Just curious. I have built an indymill and also bought a vfd controlled spindle to mount later. It weighs a lot(guesstimate 6kg). Is the z axis belt drive coping well with the weight?
Hi Daniel, the belt should work fine. However, the tiny printed Z axis nut holder will break sooner or later because it has to hold the complete weight (on two M3 screws, screwed into plastic).
Dorób sobie uziemienie wrzeciona bo dokładnie ten model ma na obudowie 80V przy braku obrotów i ok. 120V przy uruchomieniu - Ciebie nie porazi bo prąd płynie tam mały, może 2 mA (mierzyłem jakieś 2 miesiące temu, ale te okolice), ale ryzykujesz spaleniem elektroniki jeśli gdzieś zewrzesz nawet przypadkiem ramę z czymkolwiek innym + będzie siało zakłóceniami aż miło. Poza tym fajne wrzecionko, sam też jestem zadowolony choć ja je zakładałem do całkowicie autorskiej konstrukcji i ciągle walcze jeszcze z zakłóceniami od falownika.
A no i daj spokój z WuDekiem do chłodzenia - strasznie zatłuszcza wszystko i sam sie przy tym nadenerwowałem ostro XD Lepiej już za te 40 zł kupić 5L emulsji z czego zrobisz 100-120L chłodziwa, a przy chłodzeniu mgiełką wcale tego wiele nie schodzi więc można pozwolić sobie na robotę bez obiegu zamkniętego jeśli chodzi o chłodziwo bo nie zrujnujesz sie finansowo :D Pozdro
I just buy the exactly same 1.5 kW spindle :-) ... but I'll use it on just finished mpcnc (next time I'll make yours :-) First of all thanks a lot for the video. And second, please tell us in a video if you can connect the inverter of spindle to the... I don't know... to the software maybe ??? (for now I use marlin) Thanks again
oh another thing! One thing about 3d printed upgrades not being quite as good as metal ones. Just make the CNC with 3d printed parts, then make the metal replacements with that very machine! have it upgrade itself like we do with 3d printers hahaha
Hello, I just made my CNC and on my first test something does not seem right. The CNC uses 2.2 KW air cooled spindle at 300 Hz speed. and a Makita drill bit with one cutting teeth as you can see in the picture from the end of my video. Could you please explain why do I have that whistle noise when it cuts? Also the spindle motors is getting very hut, after the cut I could barely hold my hand on it? Cut federate is 800 . The diameter of the drill bit is 6mm. ruclips.net/video/dsRKRu3pHBw/видео.html
Nice cnc. Although the X axis seems to look weak compared to the Y axis. Also the Z seems not so rigid. Best to replace the X beams with larger alu profiles and put them vertical for rigidity. I also never like to see a belt transmission. This is also not rigid and causes the z guide to vibrate when doing a lead in.
Nikodem, you are simply a young genius engineer. As an old man that I am, I would say your parents must be really proud of you. The job you are doing is really a dream and wish you all the success you rightly deserve. Please keep it up. I will try to go into your list of parts to see if it is economically viable for me as at 73 years I can only do so much, but since I have been looking out for such a project for some time I would love to go for it. Best of luck to you and wish you great success in the future. Regards, Saviour from Malta
🇨🇦/🇺🇸... Well said, Saviour! I've been FEELING old at 64 and have been working on doing things to exercise both body and mind! I live in a small apartment and had build the MPCNC (Mostly Printed CNC) but it is too big for my modest means and don't have a big worktable for it! So, I'm thinking about a smaller CNC. It's been a year since you posted. I hope you are doing well and that you built this machine! :-)
Great video. The best upgrades I ever did to my CNC machine were a) a full enclosure which dramatically cuts down the noise b) closed loop steppers made the machine consistently accurate and c) a water-cooled spindle. Having said that, You’ve inspired me to try some of your ideas as well. Thanks.
For your own safety, I recommend you use a 4-wire cable as the yellow-green should be connected to ground on the spindle!
If it goes wrong, your whole machine can become live!
Believe it or not, this spindle design has no earth cable but relies on being earthed through its connection to the frame! The frame should be earthed. I also think that the manual says not to connect an earthing cable......somwthing about an earthing loop......
@@highjuice The problem is that cheap diy frames are often made of aluminium extrusions. They are anodised, which means when you bolt them together, they have no electrical conductivity, unless you sand/grind through the oxide layer.
@@Nealieboyee That's what I've found!
Loving your video’s. The “weird” drill bit that taper’s the top of screw holes you referred to is call a “counter sink”.
A lot of great ideas here. I'm glad RUclips suggested I watch this. Thank you for documented your CNC upgrades.
You have a vision to make money but at the same time you are thinking about the rest of us that can't afford an expensive already built machine. Best wishes!!!
i had a good laugh when you started to explain the strange symptoms you experienced with the freshly installed spindle.. it was nice to see that I'm not alone with that mistake :)
Hi Niko, I have a recommendation for you. Based on my experience in building and using my CNC.
I found that the gantry, if you only use the aluminum extrusions and linear rails, is considerably strong, but when you use a heavy spindle or the spindle is under heavy loads, it tends to bow for the weight and twist under load (less than a milimiter, but translate in larger movements in the cutting tool).
This is not gona make imposible to use the machine, but it´s gona be a little bit more imprecise that what is capable. There is a lot of potencial solutions to this problem, but mine for speed and moneay was simply adding a backplate with M6 screws to the extrusions.
You can even screw it to the side panels for the other axis to make it more rigid.
if i wanted to run a larger frame, do you think it would work to weld a steel framework and attach the extruded aluminum rails to that for added strength? im researching building a 4x4' CNC
@@beardedgaming1337If you have the possibility of welding, I will recommend you don't use aluminum extrusions at all. Aluminum extrusions are great for modular and cheaper machines, also are straight that is not always easy to get, but are not the strongest. Yes, you can use both if you want to add strength to the extrusions, but is gona be weacker than just steel. You can even use regtangular tubing for that, only make sure that the wall thickness is thicker enough, and maybe you will need to make flat the faces you will put the rails with lapping.
Another video packed with mouth-watering stuff, thanks Nikodem. It is a long way from Poland to my home in New Zealand, yet at 6:40 you are moving your machine on a folding work table identical to the two I have in my workshop! Our planet gets smaller every day. :o)
17:45 I think it's a chamfer bit, but for the screws, those are countersink holes
Those 24 minutes were captivating
Thank you!
you're a clever young man. The Indymill project has inspired me to build my own Nema-23 based CNC. I've acquired all the C-Beam and v-slot extruded aluminum for the frame and gantry. The next step will be to 3D print all the braces. So excited to see how it turns out.
One of the most valuable video you've posted. Thank you Nikodem! Instructive and helpful as usual.
Thanks!
Well done, friend. As always, I'm enjoying watching your work.
These are some of my favorite videos! Once I have the funds, I will be making one of these for myself.
I don't know how practical for at home machining this is, but I cut aluminum daily at work and we use alcohol for cooling. We get a 200 proof ethyl alcohol in 55gal barrels that we go through probably too fast, but we are full production producing over a million units a year.
With such a cooling system in my small workshop it's better not to drive a car after milling something :)
Spraying the area to be cut with a silicone lubricant aerosol can make a noticable difference to cuts, even though it has been allowed to dry. This avoids ruining wooden beds etc.. It is obviously not as good as a proper lube system, but still worth the effort. Watch out for your feet... parts remain slippery!
Always Use a shielded cable with Inverter driven motors to avoid noise!
Check if your VFD has Modbus digital interface terminals… most similar VFDs do. It will give you full digital control of the VFD using a cheap USB to RS485 dongle. Set RPM precisely, start/stop/reverse, you can even read the spindle amps in real time to give you a 0-100% spindle load display. Much nicer solution than PWM! Also, get some ferrite beads on those spindle cables, it will help reduce EMI which can erroneously trigger limit sensors etc.
The air mixer system looks like a great tip ! Tnx ! I didn't know it.
Jak zwykle super! Przy maszynach małej sztywności obróbkę wykańczającą warto puścić przeciwbieżnie. Przy wykańczaniu ustawiam 2-4 krotnie mniejszy posuw i przybranie boczne około 0,2mm i wychodziło niemal lusterko, oczywiście nie może podejść żaden wiór, bo przytrze powierzchnię i będzie matowa, ale jak masz mgłę olejową, to ona super usuwa wióry. Zwróć też uwagę, żeby frez był możliwie najkrótszy i jak najbardziej schowany w tulejkę, to zdecydowanie poprawia sztywność. U siebie ten falownik mam podłączony bezpośrednio do komputera przez konwerter USB-RS485 i przez plugin do Mach3 steruje włączaniem wyłaczaniem i prędkościami z poziomu Gcodu. Bardzo wygodne, tylko jak będziesz robił safety, to styki grzybka puść do falownika też.
Pozdrawiam i powodzenia
This project is really nice!
I have a similar 230v Spindle in my machine and you can easily use your (old) 10V circuit to control this one, but it can also be switched to 5V (PD071 is the parameter I think).
You need to have a relay to connect FOR to DCM to turn it on though, and there is no spindle on/off pin on grbl 1.1, only PWM speed control.
You can however recompile grbl in the Arduino IDE and set a parameter to remove the spindle direction pin and make it an off/on pin to control the relay. The parameter is USE_SPINDLE_DIR_AS_ENABLE_PIN in the config.h file.
Another fantastic video. Glade I found your RUclips channel. Keep up the good work
The biggest problem with the 500W Spindle (aside from some EMI issues) are the bearings. They are usually using 2 8mm skateboard bearings that are fittet in rubber caps in the motor lids to compensate for bad tolerances which result in too much give in the spindle. I made it better by making a separate spindle with better bearing system that then is driven by the motor over a belt. The 500W performannce is enough for most things in my experience.
Hmm have here a 750w one it’s a joke. Upgraded to a 3kw one hsk40a
My handheld router is 1500W, isn't this the minimum you need for a good cnc machine? 500W seems a little low.
@@powerpc6037 That is my thinking too
@17:43 , the weird drilling bit is called a countersink bit
Excellent machine
Perfect! I just bought the same spindle recently, but haven't mounted it up, yet. I'm excited for what it can do on aluminum!
Two comments regarding your little pcb with the LM358.
1) add bypass capacitors to the +/- 12v rails. two caps each 0.1uf parallel with 4.7uf
2) do not leave the second op amp unconnected.
connect - input to the output, and
connect + input to ground.
If these things are not done even the simple circuit may mis-behave, oscillate,...
Hello. After watching this, I have a suggestion. You should add the spindle controller circuit to a new model Indyshield.
The original Indyshield is great, but it has some limitations, and a minor flaw. I propose a larger more powerful version. It starts with the capabilities of the first, but with the following changes and additions.
1) Add the spindle controller circuit. Instead of a separate independent circuit board for spindle control. Add the circuit to a larger more capable Indyshield.
2) Additional "A" axis. I believe grbl also allows for a 4th axis. Adding a 4th axis would allow for more advanced milling.
3) Move the VIN and end stop posts. They interfere with the arduino USB and power terminals. There are ways to mitigate this, but consider moving them.
4) Additional end stop posts. I may be wrong, but I believe grbl allows for two independent circuits for end stops. This may be useful in some instances.
5) Do not limit the shield size, if the shield needs to be larger to accommodate the changes, so be it.
The original Indyshield is great for the DremelCNC, but your IndyMill has advanced beyond that, and while the Indyshield will drive the basic Indymill quite capably, a more capable shield will allow for more advanced milling.
Great video! I was inspired to build my own cnc, and also made a few upgrades. Something I would Really recommend is replacing the PC with a rasberry pi, maybe your next upgrade?
You haven't resistors on your led PCB for your spindle ?
Why did the old 6600 drivers were unreliable?? The should support the voltage of the new power supply ok and the current of the motors just ok, I’m about to buy the drivers and don’t know if I should get the upgraded ones or not because were I live the 556 cost 3 times more than the 6600
Been eye a similar spindle motor. Need to get some beefy rails first tho.
Nice and inspirational video!
nice project machine is looking good, just an idea for you if you mount a small solenoid piston above the oil can you should be able to automate when oil is dispensed.
Great upgrades. Thank you!!!
Congrasts, from Brazil!
Good job, but you better get some terminals for that 19:10
Hello! Where are you ordering those laser cut parts? (eg. spindle mount plate)
Super professional upgrade mate 👍I like your style. Keep going forward
A camera for remote monitoring, and a web control interface would be pretty cool. Like octoprint, but for cnc milling. You're doing awesome work, and I really like the videos. Also the weird bit for flush mounting screws is a countersink bit.
It’s super dangerous how you connected the new spindle
Yeah, I would definitely recommend adding proper crimp connectors. Not only is it not safe for you, people could start to assume this is the correct way.
I have the same cheap automatic wire stripper/crimper he used im the video and it even has crimp connectors included in the package. The first thing I did with it, when I bought it, that I upgraded all of my internal connections in my 3d printer.
I think you should add some endstops for auto homing and resuming.
Great stuff! I’m just getting my big cnc working order. One question: what was those small wires from the spindle cables that seemed to connect to each other on spindle end? Seemed odd and interesting at the same time. Something to do with interference?
I’m having some interference problems from the spindle to limit sensor inputs.
I believe you are talking about the power cables. They need to be at least 22 awg wire. It's a 3 phase spindle so 3 power wires. Believe it or not but this spindle doesn't have an earthing cable....... It is earthed through the spindle body connection to the frame...... Which needs to be earthed!
Your interference may be a result of your spindle having an earthing cable and therefore requiring a shielded cable to prevent noise.
Awesome stuff
Funny how a such a drastically improved, ergonomic solution can stall by our brains, wanting the perfect design. Happens to me all the time, "should've done that ages ago" solutions!
Hi Niko, I designed my own DIY CNC KR8 based on your Indymill & put in the 1.5kw spindle with GRBL control through a Pwm to 10v analogue board and ran into noise issue. If you use limit switches and use homing, the noise from the VFD will cause GRBL to give false hard limit or soft limit alarm.
Because of this, I just ordered optically isolated PWM to 10v board to isolate the noise from the VFD to the Arduino board.
Are you experiencing any noise issue after switching to the 1.5kw spindle with VFD control ?
Great stuff! Love your videos please keep it up!!
plz put a Plexiglas between the computer and CNC to avoid debris and dust from the CNC. I enjoy watching you video. thanks for sharing
I am building an indymill, but with the blackbox motion controller system.
Keep it up! Cheers from Germany
Great work. It would be great to do a PCB video showing how to order an assembled PCB from one of the online companies.
The spindle led is very useful, also for 3D printers
Olá,
What is the fastest speed you can cut with this Nema 23 + 5mm pitch ball screw set?
cool project! Where can I download the frame details? for milling. made your last machine
indystry.cc/indymill/
Hi what setting did you use on the DM556 dip switches for the microstepping setting ?
Quick correction... The controller for the spindle isn't an inverter, because it isn't converting DC into ac... It's called a VFD it's the bigger brother of the well know ESC
That was AWSOME.
Just Another upgrade 4th AXIS.
PLEASE!
Great work , i love your videos, they do are very inspiring, i will be soon building a cnc like yours very soon, just wanted to ask you, what would be the largest working area for a cnc like this using nema 23 motors? you think 1x1 meter would work well ? or 1.3x1.3 meter? thank you
I don't see a dxf for the 1.5kw spindle - did I miss it somewhere? BTW - I bought the instruction book.
What is your idea about making 5 axis diy cnc machine ?
I want to collect gold dust particles to regain it... Help me to suggest which dust collector will be good? I want in compact size... Mini in size.
Where did you buy the vacuum hose from?
so that parts list you have on the site: does it have these upgrades in it? i want to CNC wood and aluminum in 4x4' area. id like to run 48v system i think, given its faster and such. i do not own a 3d printer (thats next) but i own bandsaws, plasma cutter, router tables, and mig welder. so id be find welding framework and such. what is your recommendation to build a good system here? thanks
great video, great mods. Only thing to improve is your coolant. Use Isopropanol instead of wd40, it has way better cooling abilities and on top of that it's cheeper. (Alu only, don't use it with steel because of the fire risk)
When you switched to 36V power supply, did you do something with the power to the Aurdino board? Can the Aurdino board work with 36V or have you used a voltage regulator?
Thanks for answer
if I happen to build your CNC design, can it be upscale to 1.2m x 1.2m for the x and y axis?
17:45 Chamfer bit
Can the Steel plate for the Z be modified for my 80mm 2.2kw spindle? Thanks!
Siema! Co to za system szufladek w którym trzymasz wszystkie śrubki? Jakiś gotowiec, albo samoróbka? Fajny pomysł, muszę u siebie uporządkować drobnicę :) Pozdrawiam!
also, im having great fun with mine and yes learn and brake some endmills along the way, its part of the process :)
Nice video, cool to see how you are tackling your cnc. I do think that bracket that you showed at @18:05 looks a bit weak! Also there is no backslash nut on it aren't you afraid it is going to vibrate in the z height?
Amazing project, I am copying it, in the process of my making, I want to add knife setting function, is it possible to do this project
for the pwm converter, what value did you use for r1 and c1? as they are not included in the parts list
Hello, how is name of your cam program????
Drill bit change option? I would like to do that also maybe you should do it first.
What CAM software are you using for your CNC?
how long can you run this spindle before overheating?
Why you do not use a palm router for spindle? It's to loud? Or maybe some other problems? This spindle is quite expensive.
I like the 1.5kw spindle upgrade. On your DXF file have you considered having holes for both the 500w and 1.5kw spindle option, or have an option for two dedicated plates? Maybe you could have three plate options 500w, 1.5kw and custom drill plate. Also are you planning on having more steel plates kits on your website in the near future.
Hey Nikodem, I really love your videos and the IndyMill build, I think I am ready to start my build but I wanted to check is there a sizing guide for the Indymill if I want to build make a unit with a larger build volume?
What is the build volume of your machine?
Great videos- I have a diy cnc machine and have the same spindle-will the plate for the 1.5kw spindle be on your site and can you do stainless?
Upgrade show 👏👏👏😁
The weird bit is called a countersink bit. Some might call it a chamfer bit too
That spindle does not need cooling system?
I have the same spindle I like it
Hi Niko. I have a Shapeoko XL and your light idea appeals to me. Have you perfected the light. If so can one be made to fit?
Thanks in advance, Michael
You would have to redesign that to fit a different diameter
Over thing things "welcome to the club" 😇
Hi Indy, Whats the feed rate and Rpm you are running it?
Hi, great video. Just curious. I have built an indymill and also bought a vfd controlled spindle to mount later. It weighs a lot(guesstimate 6kg). Is the z axis belt drive coping well with the weight?
Hi Daniel, the belt should work fine. However, the tiny printed Z axis nut holder will break sooner or later because it has to hold the complete weight (on two M3 screws, screwed into plastic).
Dorób sobie uziemienie wrzeciona bo dokładnie ten model ma na obudowie 80V przy braku obrotów i ok. 120V przy uruchomieniu - Ciebie nie porazi bo prąd płynie tam mały, może 2 mA (mierzyłem jakieś 2 miesiące temu, ale te okolice), ale ryzykujesz spaleniem elektroniki jeśli gdzieś zewrzesz nawet przypadkiem ramę z czymkolwiek innym + będzie siało zakłóceniami aż miło. Poza tym fajne wrzecionko, sam też jestem zadowolony choć ja je zakładałem do całkowicie autorskiej konstrukcji i ciągle walcze jeszcze z zakłóceniami od falownika.
A no i daj spokój z WuDekiem do chłodzenia - strasznie zatłuszcza wszystko i sam sie przy tym nadenerwowałem ostro XD Lepiej już za te 40 zł kupić 5L emulsji z czego zrobisz 100-120L chłodziwa, a przy chłodzeniu mgiełką wcale tego wiele nie schodzi więc można pozwolić sobie na robotę bez obiegu zamkniętego jeśli chodzi o chłodziwo bo nie zrujnujesz sie finansowo :D
Pozdro
to masz wrzeciono 1.5kW czy jak odsyłasz do Amazan - 2.2kW?
bro I love this
I just buy the exactly same 1.5 kW spindle :-)
... but I'll use it on just finished mpcnc (next time I'll make yours :-)
First of all thanks a lot for the video.
And second, please tell us in a video if you can connect the inverter of spindle to the... I don't know... to the software maybe ??? (for now I use marlin)
Thanks again
you have a cnc why did you etch it ? why not just cut it ?
oh another thing! One thing about 3d printed upgrades not being quite as good as metal ones. Just make the CNC with 3d printed parts, then make the metal replacements with that very machine! have it upgrade itself like we do with 3d printers hahaha
Świetna robota. Maszyna dobrze trzyma wymiary, mógłbyś zrobić odcinek w którym to pokazujesz?
Nice CNC improvements. Why are you using a 3D printed ball screw nut holder for your spindle plate?
It will be your weakest link in the system
Hello,
I just made my CNC and on my first test something does not seem right.
The CNC uses 2.2 KW air cooled spindle at 300 Hz speed. and a Makita drill bit with one cutting teeth as you can see in the picture from the end of my video.
Could you please explain why do I have that whistle noise when it cuts? Also the spindle motors is getting very hut, after the cut I could barely hold my hand on it?
Cut federate is 800 . The diameter of the drill bit is 6mm.
ruclips.net/video/dsRKRu3pHBw/видео.html
Nice cnc. Although the X axis seems to look weak compared to the Y axis. Also the Z seems not so rigid. Best to replace the X beams with larger alu profiles and put them vertical for rigidity. I also never like to see a belt transmission. This is also not rigid and causes the z guide to vibrate when doing a lead in.
Why not use the CNC to carve the other PCB instyead of this awful transfer paper method?
the power supply broke down because there is no snubber diode when u connected the spindle motor to the PS.