Excellent. I've purchased probably 20+ sharpening systems over the years searching for 'the one'... your emphasis and explanation of technique has answered many of the questions that have always plagued me. Thanks for an extremely informative and quality video.
Thanks for all that you do for the sharpening community. The education that you provide has increased my knowledge which has allowed me to become more efficient and expand my business.
Im very new to knife making and because of cost i chose a 1x30 similar to the one in the video. So far this video is the most informative and in depth on sharpening with a 1x30 i have found. Thank you for taking the time to make this. Very good info, definitely eanrned a subscriber!!
Thanks for the vid! I've been bitten by the knife bugs bad! I just ordered a 1x30 buck tool and super excited to use it! I've been making handles for blanks and now I wanna try making a blade out of 1095 stock but anyway I love learning all of this and can't wait to start! Will be watching your channel more thanks👍
Kudos for your excellent teaching. Your edge-leading-against-platten approach is so quick. Even though I am just a sharpening hobbyist, may have to retool, edge leading. THANKS.
There are risks involved but the repeatability of the bevel angle does allow for also what I think is easily the quickest method to get the same results...or even a more controlled toothy edge.
Very educational video. I recently switched to partially serrated EDC pocket knives and wondered if that was a mistake, but your video demonstrates it is far easier to sharpen serrated so I am relieved.
@@CurryCustomCutlery I've just had my first run at sharpening this way, results are good! I'll definitely look at grabbing a scotchbrite wheel from you in the near future, I don't think the red scotchbrite belt is optimal here.
I always learn something from your videos and they're much appreciated but I was really hoping this one was the review of that newer 1x30 Ali special that's in your van. 😆 Have a great week buddy. 👍
@@CurryCustomCutlery heck it's not mine and I'm very disappointed. Probably because I've spent so much time and effort looking at different ones and there's just no reviews on them. Hopefully it's just a bad connection/connector from cleaning it and you'll have it up and running sooner than later. Good luck buddy. 👍
Hello Cliff, I just got home from my Harbor Freight in San Antonio TX. and they didn’t have the Central 1x30 so I ordered the Rikon 1x30, I’m anxious to get started sharpening my knives. I have enjoyed all of your videos and I have learned a lot. I want to ask you to help me pick the belts that you sell for me to get started. I did put the angle guide in the cart. Also I think I remember you saying that you also carry the replacement wheels and bearings? Let’s get these gathered up so I can place my order. Thank you, Eddie
Just a couple of questions,, I'm wondering why you don't turn the grinder around to have the belt going away from you? I use a 1×30 grinder to grind my bevels and want to try using it for sharpening, can you tell me where I can get the guide, bottom of the world here in NZ, Cheers
Do you find that the angle guide scratches the sides of the blades at all? I believe you mentioned that it can be taped however does metal still build up over time and cause scratching issues? If so any way to avoid it?
That's a great question. Posture and positioning are so important. I tried to stay in a neutral position with my arms at my side so my shoulders aren't hunched up and I'm not bent over
Hi Cliff ! ! Looks like I've found my place for all things cutlery. Thanks so much for the video ! ! It was exactly what I was looking for. I just bought the Angle Guide and have found my guide moves around alot. It's not in any whay anchored and I do understand why given the design. I don't know whether it's supposed to move this much. Any suggestions ? ? Thanks, Rob
Most common problem is the spring clip on back of angle guide hasnt been slid down over the machine platten correctly. The spring clip should "pinch the platten when sliding it down over the top not flop around.
I would like to see your storage locker setup for customer drop offs. I really need to set something like that up but I am not exactly sure how it would work.
How is the Rikon doing with the motor getting so hot? I would like to purchase one but a little hesitant with the heat wasting the motor. Thanks love your videos they really help us out.
You are convincing me to switch from edge trailing to edge leading. With the wooden frame attached to your unit, you could have flipped it over to do the final step on the leather belt edge trailing in a horizontal position. I suppose that with your experience, it wasn't necessary for you but do you think that is a good idea for those of us who are less experienced?
I think all the method have their place. Even just a final pass edge leading will reduce the amount of time needed to strop to just a few swipes and horizontal for some would be easier for sure!
Once again kind sir a wonderful video, where we get the joy of catching new tid-bits of new to our eyes information. Always enjoy your videos. Thanks again.
Finally getting to see this the first time, worried about the scratches that you can get from sliding it on the jig, wondering if you could put painters tape on the pad instead of bare metal
Thank you for the rant, try to tell people that about the 1x30 and most that are stuck in there ways say no way no machine’s, of course i know how to not use but, I at one time did a shoe box full of knives in less than an hour and had a 250 dollar pay out
First thing I do is make sure to round off n soften all the edges and polish too. Then I apply the Teflon type tape and wipe it off often. Another tip is not to press so dang hard into the angle guide Lastly if its a flawless knife, expensive or mirrored surface I will run a strip of blue tape down the side for safety
New bladesmith here. I can make decent knives, but what I really struggle with is sharpening. I have a 1x30 with that same guide. What rpm do you like for your machine? Although mine is fixed speed, I can install a variable speed device. Thanks
Great explanation but can I ask should I scotch brite before or after my 1200 grit belt? Do you have a grit progression for a dull to sharp knife video please?
Cliff, I've had far too many complaints about scratching on the sides of the knives. I've tried the masking tape on the angle guide but found it of little use. Even with fresh masking tape, a couple of passes over the tape and there is enough metal particles embedded in the tape to scratch the surface of the knife sides. It's not so noticeable on heavily used knives already with existing scratching. But when I get a set of expensive, high-end, knives that have never been sharpened and have brite shiny faces I go to the AMK-75 for sharpening. I don't dare use the 1/30 and angle guide on those knives. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated. Love your videos, please keep cranking them out.
If the knife is in brand new condition or is the show piece I will tape the blade so I don't scratch it. I don't have huge scratches going down the sides of my knives though so maybe too much pressure
@@gm7tx What kind of tape were you using? If you use something with a durable and slick top side it’s a whole lot better. Like a vinyl or Kapton tape. You can even give it a shot of silicone spray every once in awhile so it’s even harder for anything to stick to it.
i wonder if it will be better to use a ptfe tape on the angle guide so that the knife slide smoothly and more consistent than a painters tape, give it a try?
Do you have your entire system in one video? I see different aspects in different videos. I've been using only tormek for awhile and it takes a long time. I'm thinking of converting over to what you're showing me but I don't have the whole picture of what's needed. Thanks
Curious if anyone bedides me sharpen things like mower blades and axes running the edge perpeindicular to the belt on the curve of belt sanders pulley. I can get a nice dressed edge doing this. Granted its not for a knife but i wonder if you could get a initial edge on a knife doing that.
whatever works....use all the parts of the machine to do what you need I have a quick end of video demo somewhere that I show how to modify the frame of 1x30 so you can use the top idler wheel better
When people worry about these belt myths I usually just tell them that this is what the factory does in 95% of cases, then ask them if they want to know more about it since I cba to waste time with unsolicited information. If they do want to know more though, having that little conversation with them about how things actually work (allthough a bit tedious to repeat often) is usually very productive.
Nice video. I bought some Cubitron belts from your site and the 120 belts just say Cubitron II 120, there is no 'P,' just wondering what the difference is?
Anyone have issues with static electricity? I've had to start using a static dissipater, which is a wrist strap and a clip I connect to the sander to keep me from getting shocked as I sharpen. Does anyone do something different?
I don't encourage people to attach straps or cords to their body that could get tangled in the motor wheel. I know that some have Earth grounded their machine to stop it creating static like a Van de graaff generator
@@CurryCustomCutlery oh, I don't like it, but I also hate the shock I get while it's running and holding a knife. I'll try it, but my grinder is already grounded (via 3 prong plug). But I'll play around with an external ground to the machine. Thanks!
My sweet spot for sharpening is right about the lowest speed setting on this machine at 2000 RPMs. For stopping I tend to turn it up to 2500 or a bit more
Great content as allways 👍 2 questions please: 1-How long would those edges last in homecook normal use (aprox) 2-When do you decide to thin a blade and why ?
Too many factors to say how long an edge will last including type of steel, type of cutting board, time of use, type of cutting...sorry I cant give a better answer. Thinning is a whole nother topic...
I can try better maybe... Edge last average 3-6 months before I see again from home cooks. Thinning I suggest when the edge is at a certain thickness that its significant and obvious.
I have a full price list out on my website somewhere but basically: Sm $5 Med $7 Lrg $9 Serrations are extra and Single bevel are extra. I dont usually charge for fixing tips since its so easy but many do.
Love the videos. Very informative and easy to understand. I would love to see you grind that "T" off the word "across". Acrosst is not a word. Hit it with that 40 grit, and get it to the correct "heigh-th", which is also not a word. Just kidding. Great video.
Edge trailing jig concept was something I tried many years ago when I first started and I found it to be a complete fail. The belt sucks the knife off the guide causing inconsistencies in the angle and overall appearance is all over.
I was skeptical. I really didn't think edge leading was any better than edge trailing. I did my own testing with both techniques on my AMK 75. I really wanted edge trailing to be better since it pushes all the dust away from me. After 10 or so knives there is a lot of dust. However, I came to the conclusion that with edge trailing, it is much harder to remove the burr. It gives you fake results. You think its sharp but there is still a flimsy burr hanging on after a strop belt. So it takes several extra passes during the stropping process. Edge leading doesn't lie to you. Its 90% complete pre stropping. So when you are sharpening for several customers and time is an issue, edge leading takes a lot of the guess work out and really speeds up the process. I have yet to do any testing on how long each technique will hold up over time but I'm guessing you are left with more robust steel with edge leading. Thanks Cliff!
Good information, I sorta have to keep my composure when I hear "he's using a belt" or something implying they would never let me sharpen their knife. To each his own the old lady said as she kissed the cow. 👍
That is when you are using a worksharp and at the end you naturally pickup the handle and elf shoe the tips. This is not that machine or that method but thanks!
After watching you sharpen I realize I am spending way too much time on each knife. I'm sure the speed will come as time goes on. I did change my belt progression to use only 3 belts: 200, 600, and 1200. I sharpen edge leading so there is usually no burr but I finish with a hand strop to make sure. I was using the leather belt but it just seemed to dull the knives which is really frustrating because then I have to re-sharpen them.
Just my experience that 200 grit starting isnt course enough to get the edge prepped for a refinement step. go from 600 grit to strop and dial in that stropping step. You will get a great biting edge. Msg me for more. Aloha
Working on a new machine build that many should find interesting. More of a workstations approach in a small compact form. Got the items just need to build and record video of it.
Blue happens at 500 to 600 degrees, if you see a color change its already to late,most stainless steel gets soft very quickly after 350 to 400 degrees.
Metallurgical data shows u would have to get blade edge to a slightly higher temperature than the blade was finished tempered at to do damage. So if tempered at 400 deg F for 2 hrs x 2 cycles a fairly common tempering method on many steels , u would have to get the blade to 400 or above to alter its edges treatment. Now personally if I feel heat in by blade while sharpening I move to another blade and work or I’ll cool the blade in water.
The heat damage thing on knife blades when sharpening on a belt grinder is WAY over-hyped. A lot of people put their knives in the dishwasher which heats the entire knife up to a temperature that is so hot you can't even touch the knife. I sharpen on a slow speed 1x30 and I have never felt even the slightest amount of heat.
I have some temp sensitive paint that shows if you go slow or press to hard the edge bevel can hit over 300° pretty quick and without any warmth in the blade. However it also shows that normal sharpening speeds and pressures dont melt it. Video coming on that too soon!
I tried the angle guide for the harbor freight 1" and it was just a disaster, it was as if it was made backwards . This after I watched your video . I sent and returned back. To the novice this was a cluster fukk
You tell us to 'drop the bolsters' but you don't tell what that means?? (what we drop it on the ground ?what?) you tell us to do that and you don't tell us why?! what is the benefit of it?
I'm guessing you are making a few bucks per knife. Not a lot individually. But you are cranking through a whole pile of knives in just literally a few seconds each, with maybe one more step to finish, also taking just a few seconds each. Once you get the business model, tools, and logistics figured out and the clientele coming in, I can see how this is a decent business model for a side gig, or a full time income for an enterprising person.
Dude, aren't you using the wrong direction guide? the belt is running against the leading edge. Isn't it supposed to run away from it? They sell the same guide that mounts in both opposite directions. Like this one: ruclips.net/video/_SN1jpn4vS4/видео.html
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent. I've purchased probably 20+ sharpening systems over the years searching for 'the one'... your emphasis and explanation of technique has answered many of the questions that have always plagued me. Thanks for an extremely informative and quality video.
Very welcome
Same here.
This system works well and fast.
Thanks for all that you do for the sharpening community. The education that you provide has increased my knowledge which has allowed me to become more efficient and expand my business.
Comments like yours mean so much, appreciate you as well.
Im very new to knife making and because of cost i chose a 1x30 similar to the one in the video. So far this video is the most informative and in depth on sharpening with a 1x30 i have found. Thank you for taking the time to make this. Very good info, definitely eanrned a subscriber!!
Thank you J D. Another video that is my favorite is the "Sharpening in 1 Minute video". It shows the steps and breaks down what I do so you can see.
@@CurryCustomCutlery Thank you for all your information. I have only an IPad, and can not find your full catalogue. How do I do that?
Thanks for the vid! I've been bitten by the knife bugs bad! I just ordered a 1x30 buck tool and super excited to use it! I've been making handles for blanks and now I wanna try making a blade out of 1095 stock but anyway I love learning all of this and can't wait to start! Will be watching your channel more thanks👍
Kudos for your excellent teaching. Your edge-leading-against-platten approach is so quick. Even though I am just a sharpening hobbyist, may have to retool, edge leading. THANKS.
There are risks involved but the repeatability of the bevel angle does allow for also what I think is easily the quickest method to get the same results...or even a more controlled toothy edge.
Very educational video. I recently switched to partially serrated EDC pocket knives and wondered if that was a mistake, but your video demonstrates it is far easier to sharpen serrated so I am relieved.
I'm not set up to get a scotchbrite wheel yet - could you achieve similar effect with scotchbrite belts on serrated knives?
Definitely you could use a scotch belt to do the work almost the same.
@@CurryCustomCutlery I've just had my first run at sharpening this way, results are good! I'll definitely look at grabbing a scotchbrite wheel from you in the near future, I don't think the red scotchbrite belt is optimal here.
I always learn something from your videos and they're much appreciated but I was really hoping this one was the review of that newer 1x30 Ali special that's in your van. 😆
Have a great week buddy. 👍
It died this Saturday at my Farmers Market while I was cleaning it up. Either controller or connector. :(
@@CurryCustomCutlery heck it's not mine and I'm very disappointed. Probably because I've spent so much time and effort looking at different ones and there's just no reviews on them. Hopefully it's just a bad connection/connector from cleaning it and you'll have it up and running sooner than later.
Good luck buddy. 👍
@@CurryCustomCutlery is going
Hello Cliff,
I just got home from my Harbor Freight in San Antonio TX. and they didn’t have the Central 1x30 so I ordered the Rikon 1x30, I’m anxious to get started sharpening my knives.
I have enjoyed all of your videos and I have learned a lot. I want to ask you to help me pick the belts that you sell for me to get started. I did put the angle guide in the cart. Also I think I remember you saying that you also carry the replacement wheels and bearings?
Let’s get these gathered up so I can place my order.
Thank you,
Eddie
How do you do your scandi blades when they come your way?
match the bevel angles, apex and deburr would be best explanation?
Hello nice video!
Question…..
Where can you buy the angle guide for this machine…
Thank you
Just a couple of questions,, I'm wondering why you don't turn the grinder around to have the belt going away from you? I use a 1×30 grinder to grind my bevels and want to try using it for sharpening, can you tell me where I can get the guide, bottom of the world here in NZ, Cheers
Do you find that the angle guide scratches the sides of the blades at all? I believe you mentioned that it can be taped however does metal still build up over time and cause scratching issues? If so any way to avoid it?
It does, you can see it on the knives. I would get a lot of complaints from my customers if I returned their knives scratched up like that!
What height do you like to keep your machines when sharpening? Are they at your chest, belly etc? Thank you
That's a great question. Posture and positioning are so important. I tried to stay in a neutral position with my arms at my side so my shoulders aren't hunched up and I'm not bent over
I rarely ever use my angle guide...it comes in handy for a few things, but it mostly collects dust on the shelf...lol
there is a learning curve with it but hopefully I was able to show some of the benefits to using it.
Hi Cliff ! ! Looks like I've found my place for all things cutlery. Thanks so much for the video ! ! It was exactly what I was looking for. I just bought the Angle Guide and have found my guide moves around alot. It's not in any whay anchored and I do understand why given the design. I don't know whether it's supposed to move this much.
Any suggestions ? ? Thanks, Rob
Most common problem is the spring clip on back of angle guide hasnt been slid down over the machine platten correctly. The spring clip should "pinch the platten when sliding it down over the top not flop around.
I would like to see your storage locker setup for customer drop offs. I really need to set something like that up but I am not exactly sure how it would work.
Msg me or email and Ill shoot you pics n discuss
Thank you for the video Cliff! I appreciate all you do.
I appreciate that very much. This seems to be what Im supposed to do and I enjoy it :)
How is the Rikon doing with the motor getting so hot? I would like to purchase one but a little hesitant with the heat wasting the motor. Thanks love your videos they really help us out.
bought 3 more and working fine...they get hot. no big deal they run
You are convincing me to switch from edge trailing to edge leading. With the wooden frame attached to your unit, you could have flipped it over to do the final step on the leather belt edge trailing in a horizontal position. I suppose that with your experience, it wasn't necessary for you but do you think that is a good idea for those of us who are less experienced?
I think all the method have their place. Even just a final pass edge leading will reduce the amount of time needed to strop to just a few swipes and horizontal for some would be easier for sure!
Once again kind sir a wonderful video, where we get the joy of catching new tid-bits of new to our eyes information. Always enjoy your videos. Thanks again.
Finally getting to see this the first time, worried about the scratches that you can get from sliding it on the jig, wondering if you could put painters tape on the pad instead of bare metal
For sure that's the way I typically run. If it's a showcase piece tape the blade
Thank you for the rant, try to tell people that about the 1x30 and most that are stuck in there ways say no way no machine’s, of course i know how to not use but, I at one time did a shoe box full of knives in less than an hour and had a 250 dollar pay out
Very nice! The massive amount of experience shows. Very well shown.
Do you have a video on how to sharpen scissors?
How do you deal with a knife that has a bolster when the bolster hits the guide?
Thanks for the great content. Any thoughts on the Craftsman Utility Sharpener for home use? Good luck!
Do you ever have issues with your angle guard causing scratches on the knives?
First thing I do is make sure to round off n soften all the edges and polish too.
Then I apply the Teflon type tape and wipe it off often.
Another tip is not to press so dang hard into the angle guide
Lastly if its a flawless knife, expensive or mirrored surface I will run a strip of blue tape down the side for safety
@@CurryCustomCutlery thank you for the great tips
New bladesmith here. I can make decent knives, but what I really struggle with is sharpening. I have a 1x30 with that same guide. What rpm do you like for your machine? Although mine is fixed speed, I can install a variable speed device. Thanks
just saw your question
any speed can work you just need to adjust your own speed n pressure to match, go faster n go lighter
Great explanation but can I ask should I scotch brite before or after my 1200 grit belt? Do you have a grit progression for a dull to sharp knife video please?
My absolute favorite demo of sharpening is still:
ruclips.net/video/Z2hbqBQEyeY/видео.html
Cliff, I've had far too many complaints about scratching on the sides of the knives. I've tried the masking tape on the angle guide but found it of little use. Even with fresh masking tape, a couple of passes over the tape and there is enough metal particles embedded in the tape to scratch the surface of the knife sides. It's not so noticeable on heavily used knives already with existing scratching. But when I get a set of expensive, high-end, knives that have never been sharpened and have brite shiny faces I go to the AMK-75 for sharpening. I don't dare use the 1/30 and angle guide on those knives. Any thoughts you have would be appreciated. Love your videos, please keep cranking them out.
If the knife is in brand new condition or is the show piece I will tape the blade so I don't scratch it. I don't have huge scratches going down the sides of my knives though so maybe too much pressure
@@CurryCustomCutlery Thank you, sir. Good point.
@@gm7tx What kind of tape were you using? If you use something with a durable and slick top side it’s a whole lot better. Like a vinyl or Kapton tape. You can even give it a shot of silicone spray every once in awhile so it’s even harder for anything to stick to it.
@@jdisdetermined Good point, I've been using the paper painter's tape. I'll try some vinyl tape. Thanks!
i wonder if it will be better to use a ptfe tape on the angle guide so that the knife slide smoothly and more consistent than a painters tape, give it a try?
Super helpful, Cliff. Can you tell us the exact model of the Scotch-Brite wheel you are using? Thanks.
I cant because Ive used several from Amazon. Working on sourcing my own to offer directly from shop.currycustomcutlery.com
Do you have your entire system in one video? I see different aspects in different videos. I've been using only tormek for awhile and it takes a long time. I'm thinking of converting over to what you're showing me but I don't have the whole picture of what's needed. Thanks
Look for the sharpening in under 1 minute video. It's actually a breakdown and demonstration
You really have mastered the art of sharpening, good video as always.
Thanks 😋👍
Still learning n growing and having fun. Good to see you!
What kinda grinder is that
What’s the manufacturer of the buffer?
powertek?
Curious if anyone bedides me sharpen things like mower blades and axes running the edge perpeindicular to the belt on the curve of belt sanders pulley. I can get a nice dressed edge doing this. Granted its not for a knife but i wonder if you could get a initial edge on a knife doing that.
whatever works....use all the parts of the machine to do what you need
I have a quick end of video demo somewhere that I show how to modify the frame of 1x30 so you can use the top idler wheel better
Best knife guy on RUclips
When you say 15 degrees is that 15 per side for a total of 30?
While debatable Ive found that in general people speak of angles in DPS(degrees per side) to avoid confusion. Inclusive would be 30°
When people worry about these belt myths I usually just tell them that this is what the factory does in 95% of cases, then ask them if they want to know more about it since I cba to waste time with unsolicited information. If they do want to know more though, having that little conversation with them about how things actually work (allthough a bit tedious to repeat often) is usually very productive.
Nice video. I bought some Cubitron belts from your site and the 120 belts just say Cubitron II 120, there is no 'P,' just wondering what the difference is?
I say the 'P" out of habit. Its actually a different grit scale but at the course end they are all the same almost anyways. Disregard pls.
@@CurryCustomCutlery ok thanks.
Cheers I love your videos I always learn or refine technique/attitude after watching.
Excellent
Anyone have issues with static electricity? I've had to start using a static dissipater, which is a wrist strap and a clip I connect to the sander to keep me from getting shocked as I sharpen.
Does anyone do something different?
I don't encourage people to attach straps or cords to their body that could get tangled in the motor wheel.
I know that some have Earth grounded their machine to stop it creating static like a Van de graaff generator
@@CurryCustomCutlery oh, I don't like it, but I also hate the shock I get while it's running and holding a knife.
I'll try it, but my grinder is already grounded (via 3 prong plug). But I'll play around with an external ground to the machine.
Thanks!
Is this belt grinder worth it? More so than a modified HF one? Found these on sale
The blue rikon variable speed is still a great out of box option.
Thanks for the new videos! Great info!
What's speeds do you use per belt grit/strop please? Thank you for posting this.
My sweet spot for sharpening is right about the lowest speed setting on this machine at 2000 RPMs. For stopping I tend to turn it up to 2500 or a bit more
I'm learning a lot from your excellent videos.😊
When will the angle toll be back in stock
Inventory updated. Thanks for the heads up back in stock!
Great content as allways 👍
2 questions please:
1-How long would those edges last in homecook normal use (aprox)
2-When do you decide to thin a blade and why ?
Too many factors to say how long an edge will last including type of steel, type of cutting board, time of use, type of cutting...sorry I cant give a better answer.
Thinning is a whole nother topic...
I can try better maybe...
Edge last average 3-6 months before I see again from home cooks.
Thinning I suggest when the edge is at a certain thickness that its significant and obvious.
Another great instructional video, thank you!!
Glad you liked it!
Finally ! Thank You! I owe my friend.
Hope that helped....
what do you charge to sharpen a knife?
I have a full price list out on my website somewhere but basically:
Sm $5 Med $7 Lrg $9
Serrations are extra and Single bevel are extra. I dont usually charge for fixing tips since its so easy but many do.
Nice video, concise and clear. Could you do a video on how you sharpen smaller knives with 3"-5" blades such as EDC pocket knives and hunting knives?
Didnt forget just ramping back up...again.
Love the videos. Very informative and easy to understand. I would love to see you grind that "T" off the word "across". Acrosst is not a word. Hit it with that 40 grit, and get it to the correct "heigh-th", which is also not a word. Just kidding. Great video.
Thanks excellent video!
They used to make these jigs edge trailing and I swear they worked much better
Edge trailing jig concept was something I tried many years ago when I first started and I found it to be a complete fail.
The belt sucks the knife off the guide causing inconsistencies in the angle and overall appearance is all over.
I was skeptical. I really didn't think edge leading was any better than edge trailing. I did my own testing with both techniques on my AMK 75. I really wanted edge trailing to be better since it pushes all the dust away from me. After 10 or so knives there is a lot of dust. However, I came to the conclusion that with edge trailing, it is much harder to remove the burr. It gives you fake results. You think its sharp but there is still a flimsy burr hanging on after a strop belt. So it takes several extra passes during the stropping process. Edge leading doesn't lie to you. Its 90% complete pre stropping. So when you are sharpening for several customers and time is an issue, edge leading takes a lot of the guess work out and really speeds up the process. I have yet to do any testing on how long each technique will hold up over time but I'm guessing you are left with more robust steel with edge leading. Thanks Cliff!
Pls just be careful going edge leading into belt without a fixed type angle guide for safety.
Im back to edge trailing. I just refined my deburring technique.
Interesting, thanks.
Good information, I sorta have to keep my composure when I hear "he's using a belt" or something implying they would never let me sharpen their knife. To each his own the old lady said as she kissed the cow. 👍
heat damage testing video coming soon. Spoiler I show on camera the belts dont ruin blades (at normal speeds and pressure)
WorkSharp recommends not running the tip of the knife past the middle of the Sand Belt, this is to keep from rounding off the tip!
That is when you are using a worksharp and at the end you naturally pickup the handle and elf shoe the tips.
This is not that machine or that method but thanks!
Thank for sharing your knowledge. This is a simple and dynamic way of sharpening. You are the man!
After watching you sharpen I realize I am spending way too much time on each knife. I'm sure the speed will come as time goes on. I did change my belt progression to use only 3 belts: 200, 600, and 1200. I sharpen edge leading so there is usually no burr but I finish with a hand strop to make sure. I was using the leather belt but it just seemed to dull the knives which is really frustrating because then I have to re-sharpen them.
Just my experience that 200 grit starting isnt course enough to get the edge prepped for a refinement step. go from 600 grit to strop and dial in that stropping step. You will get a great biting edge. Msg me for more. Aloha
@@CurryCustomCutlery thanks!
Seems like it would pay to apply tape to that belt guard (rest) so you don't nick up the blade.
I do...its HTPE tape alot like Teflon
@@CurryCustomCutlery , ahhh, I see it now.
Which Scotch-Brite wheel do you use (grit or type)? Thanks
There are many and all work very similar. I like a 180 grit 1inch wide
Love the vids, Cliff! Gearing up for the weather change here in the desert and hoping to do a full season of farmer’s markets.
Working on a new machine build that many should find interesting. More of a workstations approach in a small compact form. Got the items just need to build and record video of it.
Love the way you the show audience how too sharpen, its opened my eyes, even a numbskull like me could do it.
I’d love to do the math but you didn’t say how much you charge for a knife sharpening.
If you can see blue color change
Did you see a hint of blue somewhere? You seem to be looking for it closely. hehe :)
Blue happens at 500 to 600 degrees, if you see a color change its already to late,most stainless steel gets soft very quickly after 350 to 400 degrees.
Metallurgical data shows u would have to get blade edge to a slightly higher temperature than the blade was finished tempered at to do damage. So if tempered at 400 deg F for 2 hrs x 2 cycles a fairly common tempering method on many steels , u would have to get the blade to 400 or above to alter its edges treatment. Now personally if I feel heat in by blade while sharpening I move to another blade and work or I’ll cool the blade in water.
The heat damage thing on knife blades when sharpening on a belt grinder is WAY over-hyped. A lot of people put their knives in the dishwasher which heats the entire knife up to a temperature that is so hot you can't even touch the knife. I sharpen on a slow speed 1x30 and I have never felt even the slightest amount of heat.
I have some temp sensitive paint that shows if you go slow or press to hard the edge bevel can hit over 300° pretty quick and without any warmth in the blade.
However it also shows that normal sharpening speeds and pressures dont melt it. Video coming on that too soon!
I tried the angle guide for the harbor freight 1" and it was just a disaster, it was as if it was made backwards . This after I watched your video . I sent and returned back. To the novice this was a cluster fukk
What was the disaster" Im happy to help in private conversation or here if interested. I started as a novice myself ofcourse.
You tell us to 'drop the bolsters' but you don't tell what that means?? (what we drop it on the ground ?what?) you tell us to do that and you don't tell us why?! what is the benefit of it?
You may have to do some research on your own. There's a term called bolster reduction that I demonstrate in the video
I'm guessing you are making a few bucks per knife. Not a lot individually. But you are cranking through a whole pile of knives in just literally a few seconds each, with maybe one more step to finish, also taking just a few seconds each. Once you get the business model, tools, and logistics figured out and the clientele coming in, I can see how this is a decent business model for a side gig, or a full time income for an enterprising person.
Most sharpening service including myself will list their prices.
For Kitchen knives my price typically ranges from $7-9 so we do...alright ;)
Dude, aren't you using the wrong direction guide? the belt is running against the leading edge. Isn't it supposed to run away from it? They sell the same guide that mounts in both opposite directions. Like this one: ruclips.net/video/_SN1jpn4vS4/видео.html
Nope. Yup. Nope. Yup. Yup
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