My 1x30 and angle guide have arrived. I can immediately see the need to modify the angle guide as you've shown here. This video is really helpful. Thank you.
I picked up one of these angle guides about a year ago because I wanted to start sharpening. I had such a hard time on the right side because it wouldn’t allow me to get close enough. I got so discouraged that I completely stopped trying, and hadn’t touched it in a year. I went back this morning to try sharpening again and ran into the same problems. So glad I found this video. Thank you for the tips! Going to try this cut out tomorrow morning. With a baby now on the way, I wish I would’ve found this video earlier, because I feel I could have a decent stream of secondary income had I kept with it a year ago! You’ve encouraged me to keep at it. Thanks again!
It’s a skill and the more you do it the better you will get at it. Get some cheap knives from Goodwill or yard sales and practice. Consider checking out the Guild of Professional Sharpeners we have lots of training and tips to help you get started and discounts on many products sharpeners use. If you are interested let me know and I’ll send you a link. We have a free trail as well I am one of the Host I did an entire video series on Tormek Sharpening and CBN wheels
@@ALXSHARPEN the notch in the guide worked like a charm! Still struggling with the small stuff. Like small pocket knives and the alike. Getting better all the time though
Those little angle guides suck....but they are best we have now for a 1x30. These little tips make it so much better. Just did it with one of mine and it is a big improvement.
This is a great and helpful video, I didn't know about these angle guides but I'm going to order one now that I do, and I'm going to modify it by removing the corner, The one thing I am going to do differently and would recommend to anyone else, is to drill a hole just above the bottom of the corner which would be best done from the inside of the corner and then cut down to the edge of the hole on both sides, which will be neater and remove the chance of overcutting to the bottom and avoid stress fractures.
Appreciate & enjoy your videos! Retired Fireman, Southwest Missouri. Starting to dabble in knife sharpening as a hobby, maybe a little side business down the road. I find it very therapeutic / relaxing. I will say that serrated knives are intimidating to me. Have you considered maybe doing a tutorial video specific to that type of knife?
Hi Spence , sure I can do a video on that I have a few ways I use and always testing more. They are not all that difficult to do and some methods work far better than others. I will try and get together a video this week and will explain what I do and what serrated knives I usually avoid doing and why
Thanks Gary if your going to use more than one 1x30 it’s important and also I should have mentioned that if one is higher angle it’s always best that it be your final belt. So let’s say one is 16.9 and one is 17.0 always be sure the highest angle is your last one in your progression.
I saw that jumper cable to ground out your static, I did exactly the same thing! I got tired of getting shocked. One end goes on the spine of the blade and the other end to a good ground. Pretty funny we both thought of that.
@@ALXSHARPEN - the basic Harbor Freight one. I only want it for knife / ax / mower blade sharpening for my personal use. Thanks to wonderful videos like yours, I can probably set it up perfectly for $100. Everyone has modded it and left instructions to make it perfect for me. Don't see the advantage in getting anything else more expensive.
Thanks for sharing! Excellent tips! 👍😎👍 There is an angle guide available that is oriented the opposite direction to use for edge trailing. Edge trailing is a must for leather stropping.
I rally appreciate your video. Such a simple modification that really made great sense. Thank you. Here’s a question on the 1 x 30 machines shown: it looks as though you have changed the motors? Can you give details about what was done and if you have purchasing information for the parts it would be great. Thanks
Awesome video. Have a Rikon and had a problem with bolsters and very narrow knives slipping down behind angle and off the angle due to free hand sharpening to get entire length. Wife will be happy and I quess I can get all our cutlery sharper.
Interesting approach-I do not have all the equipment to do some of your modifications, although I can jury-rig something compatible and comparable. Good job!
The stamped steel attachment on the grinder is meeting a price point for it. It’s not to be considered a precision instrument, only a rough guide. If you’re interested in higher precision, you’ve got to go with an instrument that can measure as well as indicate via a readout.
Very cool! I love all the little tricks everyone has for what they do! My only concern is that it weakens the guide itself? Probably not if you're using it thanks!
@@robertmunguia250 yes when brand new and breaking in they will lose a bunch and be far more aggressive after 7-8 knives it will stop and they will reach their more normal abrasive level
Is there any way this would be able to fit on the Ken Onion blade grinder attachment where the small vertical platen is? Awesome content as always and thank you!
Because I mostly sharpen edge leading because it’s faster. I only go edge trailing on certain styles of knives. Planning on doing a video showing the subtle differences in the two forms as I just yesterday had a guy I’ve been helping was struggling with edge leading. I’m going to focus on how they are different and what you need to pay attention to with each way since they are different.
@@dougprentice1363 The Ken Onion is a great tool, especially for kitchen knives, but a large blade tends to oscillate on the belt: speed wobbles, tension changes, angle of attack varies. I think bigger is better. I’m fixing to try a 2x72.
I’ve tried magnets to hold a light on my Harbor Freight, but they don’t hold. I remember you mentioning rare earth magnets, is that how you attach your light? Thanks
Nice video! Never thought of that. Can you make a video on belt tracking? For some reason belt moves too much side to side. I have more idler wheels coming.
Best I can recommend is to get the upgraded wheels sold by Cliff Curry. That should help your tracking issues. Also check your tension spring if it's to loose that can be a cause of the belt not tracking well. My ten year old HF machine spring was to soft I had to replaced it about two years ago. Putting in a better spring may help. shop.currycustomcutlery.com/collections/machine-parts
@@robertmunguia250 I got it from a local old hardware store the kind of old school one that have tuns of stuff and it's one of those you can buy just buy one screw. We are luck to have a family owned one here for decades.You can also try pulling yours out and stretch it a bit that may work if it's not to warn out.
I just checked my angles and man they were way off also. I have that Klein angle finder and zeroed it out. Sure enough they were off by a long shot. Thanks for info again!
When you are referring to angle of 17 degrees wont that give a total or inclusive angle of 34 degrees on the blade? How did you establish the 17 degrees? Is it in your opinion a good overall angle?
So when I first started, I consulted with a couple of sharpeners who had been at it for decades more than me to find out what they liked for sharpening angles, and in my first two years, I really kept track of how my customers knives were performing when they would come back in to be re-sharpened. I also had several Restaurants for clients that I did monthly knife exchanges with what amazed me was that I could not use the same angles that I use for my residential knives for my restaurant knives my restaurant customers were very hard on their knives, so I had to use a higher angle, so that their knives maintained a decent level of sharpness for the 30 days. That was how often we did and exchange of knives. So in general on Western knives for a residential customer my favorite is 17 degrees or 34 inclusive for Japanese I like 15-16 degrees for restaurants I like 19-20 degrees for western knives . Now I also don’t change angles on all knives if something comes in looks decent just needs touching up I just match the existing angle so it’s really just a general set of angles I follow there are time I deviate or if customers has a specific angles request which in general is not I want this or that angle, but usually I can’t get this knife sharp or it’s not as sharp as I want it or it won’t stay sharp very long then I look to see if a new angle will improve it’s performance.
I am ordering a mini-1"x30" in a week or so, so I only wonder if I might find a similar deal for a more powerful sander from harbor freight and do some modifications, and I will do some searches right now! Hey!
If your doing a motor conversion to variable speed which I highly recommend because it let’s you go edge leading or trailing and have far more control and not over heat your knives then any central machine or Harbor freight is fine they are exactly the same and you ditch the motor anyway if you’re not converting the motor look for a variable speed 1x30 or get the Toolcker I reviewed and make the minor changes I show as it does far more than a HF model. The Toolcker is great for conditioning belts and grinding bolster and does a lot of things better that a HF full conversation the price difference is about $85 more for the Toolcker but it’s ready out of the box a HF Conversation cost less but it’s a lot more work to build and you have to install the motor swap the wheels of Cliff Curry’s good wheels so you will save some Money but you will have to do some work to make it a great sharpening machine.
Hey Alexandria nice setup, is that a cheap 1 by 30 you rebuilt with a sewing machine motor? Or is it a custom made one? I can tell the platen looks very nice with the slots. I made a grinder with one of those motors for serrated knives following cliffs suggestion, works great.
I’m this video they are all ones I built from Wen or HF frames the Wen has a glass Platen and custom angle guide I made. But I recently replaced that entire Unit with a new 1x30 that I purchased and haven’t modified in any way just yet.
I have a brand new Toolcker 1 X 30 Belt Sander, less than an hour use and now all of a sudden it will not track, no matter the amount of adjustment. Can you tell me how o fix this issue or what I am doing wrong? Could it be the cheap belt they send with the machine? Thanks Chuck
Thanks for the tips but I have an angle question. I see you prefer 17 +/- which I agree is a good balance. Do you account for the primary bevel on the knife? Say kitchen knife with 1-2 degree primary and hunter with 6-8 degree. Would you compensate to include that angle so your 17 degrees would be accurate? Thanks for any advice, I really like your videos.
my preferred angles are 15-16 Japanese 17 Western edc , hunting 19-20 I take many factors into consideration when sharpening knives like the grind style and knives purpose. I don't get overly concerned with primary bevels on kitchen knives but I don't compensate on the angle most of the time I am matching existing knife angels anyway
Bench grinder and paper wheels are good for sharpening some things but not great for knives as most run to hot and to fast. So depend what you want to sharpen
@@ALXSHARPEN Mostly Knives, and I have a big, recurve machete that needs a new edge. I normally just use a whetstone, but I can’t with this big recurve. Looking for my first powered system and it seems a 1x30 or the paper wheels might be the thing to get. The new Ken onion looks nice but is pricey at $250 for the elite model with the blade sharpener attachment. I was thinking a 5/8 inch paper wheel set would be good for my recurve machete.
@@llamawizard I like 1x30 or 2x42 much better or even 1x42 for bigger things and for sharpening look for low speed buck tool has a nice 1x30 that’s bulky good for bigger things . I only like paper wheel for removing stubborn burrs. Go here and scroll down look for the black low speed buck tool www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
the short version www.amazon.com/vdp/01184e42f34e4d10b549acea4246e5aa?ref_=aipsfvideo_aipsfalexandriaknifesharpeninglaserengraving&linkCode=ssc&tag=alxsharpen-20
Thats because some people like to sharpen edge leading and others edge trailing and if you don't modify the machine with a new motor you can work by laying the 1x30 flat. My machines have all been converted to run both directions. I don't like the laying of the 1x30 flat for sharpening because I do 95 percent of my sharpening edge leading and when stropping I just reverse the motor so I don't need angle guides that go in both directions. I also find it hard for me to sharpen that way because of the height of my downdraft table and at 5'8" I cant see the top of the work piece. But many sharpeners do like to work all edge leading with the machine flat or the make a dedicated stropping machine configured that way. I find edge tailing sharpening to slow and burr removal is harder that way IMO.
I do have a grounding rod that goes into the ground behind my downdraft table but during certain conditions usually dry low humidty the shocks in my shop can suck so when it's bad I use one of these. I really like the metal wrist band one I have the cloth one as well if you hook to the frame of the 1x30 you will have no shocks just be sure to remove any paint where you clip to the frame. amzn.to/3nFDeSE
The link is in the video description on RUclips as well as my website go here scroll down you can't miss it www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
Hey do you know if the newer 1 by 30 belt sander from harbor freight is ok to modify with the aftermarket parts available on line for turning them into precision knife sharpners? I looked today for the sander your using in this video and did not see it available
I have seen it and read the specs and it sounds like all they did was paint it a new color and add a larger engine. The new color is pretty cool. I doubt they changed anything else so it should work fine. I do know that Amazon still sells the ones I used here is the link to them amzn.to/3MQ9lZN
I think I saw an alligator clip on one of your 1x30's. Is that for static electricity? Ive noticed a lot of build up (of charge), and get shocked. I've been putting a ground strap on my wrist to discharge the static. It works, but feels dangerous to have that teather on my wrist. Any insight?
During some weather conditions in my shop I have had some static mostly in the fall when it’s really dry I ran a ground wire to them as well that also helps
I have not seen one for a 2x42 wish they would make one .I made one from my Bucktool tool guide I called the company to buy a second one to modify and they gave me a second angle guild for free. Very nice company. They told me they are working on some things for sharpener.
This is all generally speaking there are always exceptions but from sharpening thousands of knives for both restaurants residential and pro chefs for several years now. I get to see the condition they come back in after needing sharpening again. I have found for residential customers (home use) 17 has incredible sharpness and good retention. I do not use that for professional kitchens and prep cooks the need 19-20 they are much harder on their knives and when I did 17 for them they needed lots of re-profiling work ….Japanese’s knives I like 15-16 in general some can be much lower but these would be Shun ,Miyabi,Global mostly your consumer Japanese Knives 🔪
For roughing out a knife 1x30 is good but to restore an edge, I find it removes too much. Also for restoring an edge. I like to pull the burr to the edge which I am finding out gives a superior edge which lasts longer. Only my experience.
It’s all good we do what works best for us and how we sharpen also keep in mind my 1x30 are custom and variable speed so I have very good control over material removal a non converted 1x30 I agree removes way to much runs hot and hard to control
This is a great video, thank you! I've just started using a 1x30 and figured out using the angle cube and reaming out the slots, but the other mod plus the Frog Tape are great tips. I'll be doing those. I happened to be looking through you videos when this one posted looking for something. Did you have a video, or at least say something in one ,about something to add to you respirator to easily hook and unhook it?
That’s a 3M mask that has that option I do have a link to it in one of my videos. It’s really great. I shared it with the Guild of Professional Sharpeners members and many have purchased it and everyone so far loves it. I’ll find the link for you.
Well, I have seen all sorts of angle guides, mostly for my wood shop for my lathes and my planes and chisels. That one is junk, not worth the effort of fixing. I am sure there must be better ones out there some where...I would want to be able to zero the angle guide against the belt for plumb, and then set the desired angle. I guess it is like most of the angle jigs that come on the standard bench grinders, not worth the effort of trying to use....
Not that I have been able to find and doing this works great for all the sharpeners I know and I know several people doing it and using what I did here. I wish I could find better but have not located one yet. I always look but I am open to a better one if someone invents one.
Well, maybe you will have to invent one. The ones you have don't appear to be worth more than the metal they are made from. I did see a set up from Woodpeckers which is for drilling angles on the drill press. It has geared teeth on a table, and a spring loaded gear so the teeth mesh at about 1 degree increments. I made a rest for my turning tools called the robo rest. There is a new and improved version called Right Angle tool rest which is a new and improved version of mine. The main problem with the ones for turning tools is that we don't need angles more acute than about 25 degrees. Veritas does make an articulated rest for grinders, but due to the articulated part, if you just look at it wrong, the angles change. Some practical minded person will figure one out for your belt grinders, eventually. Oh, Sorby tools has a belt grinder for turning tools and they have a couple of pre set angles on theirs, but again, probably not acute enough for kitchen knives....
@@robohippy yes kitchen knives have some interesting things that can be a problem like bolsters so it’s really helpful that the rest and the belt be the same size so you can hit the entire blade. But I have multiple tools for sharpening and some have far better and more precision angle guides if necessary these do what I need but would always welcome better if someone make one.
@@ALXSHARPEN I should have said that differently also already have it in practice it works really well and you don't have to continuously change it out
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
My 1x30 and angle guide have arrived. I can immediately see the need to modify the angle guide as you've shown here. This video is really helpful. Thank you.
After viewing again with the cut out modification ...this has answered my question about using the piece. Much better thank you.
What an impressive modification you did on that 1" belt angle me too was having a hard time ..Thanks a lot for sharing 👍🏼
Glad you enjoyed it
I picked up one of these angle guides about a year ago because I wanted to start sharpening. I had such a hard time on the right side because it wouldn’t allow me to get close enough. I got so discouraged that I completely stopped trying, and hadn’t touched it in a year. I went back this morning to try sharpening again and ran into the same problems. So glad I found this video. Thank you for the tips! Going to try this cut out tomorrow morning.
With a baby now on the way, I wish I would’ve found this video earlier, because I feel I could have a decent stream of secondary income had I kept with it a year ago! You’ve encouraged me to keep at it. Thanks again!
It’s a skill and the more you do it the better you will get at it. Get some cheap knives from Goodwill or yard sales and practice. Consider checking out the Guild of Professional Sharpeners we have lots of training and tips to help you get started and discounts on many products sharpeners use. If you are interested let me know and I’ll send you a link. We have a free trail as well I am one of the Host I did an entire video series on Tormek Sharpening and CBN wheels
How it going?
@@ALXSHARPEN the notch in the guide worked like a charm! Still struggling with the small stuff. Like small pocket knives and the alike. Getting better all the time though
Those little angle guides suck....but they are best we have now for a 1x30. These little tips make it so much better. Just did it with one of mine and it is a big improvement.
Yeah they're not 100%, but to get a differential reading they're perfectly fine.
Funny. A video about Precision and the Title spells it Percision. Hehe. Made my day.
This is a great and helpful video, I didn't know about these angle guides but I'm going to order one now that I do, and I'm going to modify it by removing the corner,
The one thing I am going to do differently and would recommend to anyone else, is to drill a hole just above the bottom of the corner which would be best done from the inside of the corner and then cut down to the edge of the hole on both sides, which will be neater and remove the chance of overcutting to the bottom and avoid stress fractures.
Great recommendation
Enlarging the angle guide top hole- just made life so much easier. Getting that gap smaller oh so nice-Thanks!
Great idea! I channel cut my angle guide’s like yours, it made a huge difference with knives like Wustof and Henckle’s with their bolsters.
Thank you.
just got my guide will do this mod, thanks for info!! getting my bucktool 1x30 this week😊😊
Awesome! It is a great machine and you will be able to do a lot with it
Nicely done - I am in the process of setting up a 1X30 for sharpening and these tips will be very useful - Thanks!
Thank you I just finished doing both of them, works much better now!
Great to hear!
Seems like someone should make these available for sale ! Nice opportunity
@Aviation_Professional Right waaay too much work and who has all the tools! I sharpen knives o.k, however I'm not a metal shop owner! Sell me one
Very cool tips . New at sharpen ing and needed that
Glad it was helpful!
This is brilliant! I never would have thought of this.
Appreciate & enjoy your videos! Retired Fireman, Southwest Missouri. Starting to dabble in knife sharpening as a hobby, maybe a little side business down the road. I find it very therapeutic / relaxing.
I will say that serrated knives are intimidating to me. Have you considered maybe doing a tutorial video specific to that type of knife?
Hi Spence , sure I can do a video on that I have a few ways I use and always testing more. They are not all that difficult to do and some methods work far better than others. I will try and get together a video this week and will explain what I do and what serrated knives I usually avoid doing and why
@@ALXSHARPEN thank you sir!
What a great video...most helpful. Thank you, Paul!
Thanks Gary if your going to use more than one 1x30 it’s important and also I should have mentioned that if one is higher angle it’s always best that it be your final belt. So let’s say one is 16.9 and one is 17.0 always be sure the highest angle is your last one in your progression.
I saw that jumper cable to ground out your static, I did exactly the same thing! I got tired of getting shocked. One end goes on the spine of the blade and the other end to a good ground. Pretty funny we both thought of that.
Good tip!
Great stuff, thanks! Getting my 1x30 tomorrow.
what are you getting?
@@ALXSHARPEN - the basic Harbor Freight one. I only want it for knife / ax / mower blade sharpening for my personal use. Thanks to wonderful videos like yours, I can probably set it up perfectly for $100. Everyone has modded it and left instructions to make it perfect for me. Don't see the advantage in getting anything else more expensive.
Besides the texture, the big difference between blue tape and frog tape is the adhesive. This is what makes the blue tape seem more “grippy.”
Thanks for sharing! Excellent tips! 👍😎👍 There is an angle guide available that is oriented the opposite direction to use for edge trailing. Edge trailing is a must for leather stropping.
Great tip!
I rally appreciate your video. Such a simple modification that really made great sense. Thank you. Here’s a question on the 1 x 30 machines shown: it looks as though you have changed the motors? Can you give details about what was done and if you have purchasing information for the parts it would be great. Thanks
look in my links at the top of the page or in the video description or my Shop Tools Page on my website
www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
Awesome!
Glad you think so!
great mod 👍 thanks for sharing it with everyone
Very very helpful, I need to do that to my angles.
Awesome video. Have a Rikon and had a problem with bolsters and very narrow knives slipping down behind angle and off the angle due to free hand sharpening to get entire length. Wife will be happy and I quess I can get all our cutlery sharper.
Glad it helped
I don't have all these tools, you should totally mod some fixed and ready to sell. I'd buy one!
Well done Paul
@@Phil.D333 I thought you were replying to me....
sincerely,
Paul :)
Thanks for the tips 👍
your welcome
Very informative video. Thank you👍
I got one sharpening guide like that, and that's exactly what I thought, it's not a 10 degrees where it says it is.
Interesting approach-I do not have all the equipment to do some of your modifications, although I can jury-rig something compatible and comparable. Good job!
Thank you for watching
Yes blue tape seems to be more grabby thanks for pointing that out too
yes it really is Green Frog is the Best for the angle guide
Very helpful video, thanks!
Nice video. Where can I get the bracket to hold the buckle guide?
The stamped steel attachment on the grinder is meeting a price point for it.
It’s not to be considered a precision instrument, only a rough guide.
If you’re interested in higher precision, you’ve got to go with an instrument that can measure as well as indicate via a readout.
Thanks for this.
No problem
Thanks again, very informative.
glad you liked it
Very cool! I love all the little tricks everyone has for what they do! My only concern is that it weakens the guide itself? Probably not if you're using it thanks!
I have never had on break they are really strong and the positives is results are worth it
Where do you get the belts?
shop.currycustomcutlery.com/
Have you ever tried Kapton tape for the guide?
Awesome build!!! Will it work on large knife and cleaver?
Yes but I also have a custom 2x42 that I use for big things there’s a video showing it.
Great video! Thanks
Glad you liked it!
How did you round out those holes?
Carbide bit and dremel tool and some wonder slick stick
@@ALXSHARPEN I meant to ask you is it normal for the CBN wheel to loosen some particles from the wheel? There’s dust below on the mat.
@@robertmunguia250 yes when brand new and breaking in they will lose a bunch and be far more aggressive after 7-8 knives it will stop and they will reach their more normal abrasive level
@@ALXSHARPEN ok good to know. Thanks!
Great video, thanks for the info!
Thank you sir!
Thanks for the info
Fantastic video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
In most cases could that rigid saw replace an angle grinder? I want to upgrade from my $20 corded porter cable angle grinder and like the look of this
Nice modification, like the way you think.
Right on
Well done 👍thanks
Great video. Please tell me where you purchased the angle guide? I didn't find it in Harbor Freight. Thank You
I put the links to products used in all my videos in the video description the angle guide is in there. Its the second one listed
Love it! Keep it up!
Is there any way this would be able to fit on the Ken Onion blade grinder attachment where the small vertical platen is? Awesome content as always and thank you!
Not sure that would be worth doing. I have seen some 3D things guys have made with 3D printers not sure how good they work
Why not set up for edge trailing right from the get-go for all your equipment?
Because I mostly sharpen edge leading because it’s faster. I only go edge trailing on certain styles of knives. Planning on doing a video showing the subtle differences in the two forms as I just yesterday had a guy I’ve been helping was struggling with edge leading. I’m going to focus on how they are different and what you need to pay attention to with each way since they are different.
You prefer this over your ken onion?
@@dougprentice1363 The Ken Onion is a great tool, especially for kitchen knives, but a large blade tends to oscillate on the belt: speed wobbles, tension changes, angle of attack varies.
I think bigger is better. I’m fixing to try a 2x72.
Could you give us a link to the magnets that you use
It's in my for sharpeners area of my website link up top of my RUclips page
I’ve tried magnets to hold a light on my Harbor Freight, but they don’t hold.
I remember you mentioning rare earth magnets, is that how you attach your light? Thanks
What’s the purpose of this green tape on the guide
keeps from scratching the knife and it make it glide across the belt smother
Can’t you set a T-bevel to 84 degrees and set it on the paper and the angle guide? The balance is 16 degrees.
Nice video! Never thought of that. Can you make a video on belt tracking? For some reason belt moves too much side to side. I have more idler wheels coming.
Best I can recommend is to get the upgraded wheels sold by Cliff Curry. That should help your tracking issues. Also check your tension spring if it's to loose that can be a cause of the belt not tracking well. My ten year old HF machine spring was to soft I had to replaced it about two years ago. Putting in a better spring may help.
shop.currycustomcutlery.com/collections/machine-parts
@@ALXSHARPEN ok where can I get a better tension spring? I ordered wheels from Curry now.
@@robertmunguia250 I got it from a local old hardware store the kind of old school one that have tuns of stuff and it's one of those you can buy just buy one screw. We are luck to have a family owned one here for decades.You can also try pulling yours out and stretch it a bit that may work if it's not to warn out.
I just checked my angles and man they were way off also. I have that Klein angle finder and zeroed it out. Sure enough they were off by a long shot. Thanks for info again!
Hi, in one video to showed a leather wheel. Can you tell me where i can by that?
Thank you
www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
When you are referring to angle of 17 degrees wont that give a total or inclusive angle of 34 degrees on the blade? How did you establish the 17 degrees? Is it in your opinion a good overall angle?
So when I first started, I consulted with a couple of sharpeners who had been at it for decades more than me to find out what they liked for sharpening angles, and in my first two years, I really kept track of how my customers knives were performing when they would come back in to be re-sharpened. I also had several Restaurants for clients that I did monthly knife exchanges with what amazed me was that I could not use the same angles that I use for my residential knives for my restaurant knives my restaurant customers were very hard on their knives, so I had to use a higher angle, so that their knives maintained a decent level of sharpness for the 30 days. That was how often we did and exchange of knives. So in general on Western knives for a residential customer my favorite is 17 degrees or 34 inclusive for Japanese I like 15-16 degrees for restaurants I like 19-20 degrees for western knives . Now I also don’t change angles on all knives if something comes in looks decent just needs touching up I just match the existing angle so it’s really just a general set of angles I follow there are time I deviate or if customers has a specific angles request which in general is not I want this or that angle, but usually I can’t get this knife sharp or it’s not as sharp as I want it or it won’t stay sharp very long then I look to see if a new angle will improve it’s performance.
I am ordering a mini-1"x30" in a week or so, so I only wonder if I might find a similar deal for a more powerful sander from harbor freight and do some modifications, and I will do some searches right now! Hey!
If your doing a motor conversion to variable speed which I highly recommend because it let’s you go edge leading or trailing and have far more control and not over heat your knives then any central machine or Harbor freight is fine they are exactly the same and you ditch the motor anyway if you’re not converting the motor look for a variable speed 1x30 or get the Toolcker I reviewed and make the minor changes I show as it does far more than a HF model. The Toolcker is great for conditioning belts and grinding bolster and does a lot of things better that a HF full conversation the price difference is about $85 more for the Toolcker but it’s ready out of the box a HF Conversation cost less but it’s a lot more work to build and you have to install the motor swap the wheels of Cliff Curry’s good wheels so you will save some Money but you will have to do some work to make it a great sharpening machine.
what belt machine are u using?
It’s in the description
Hey Alexandria nice setup, is that a cheap 1 by 30 you rebuilt with a sewing machine motor? Or is it a custom made one? I can tell the platen looks very nice with the slots.
I made a grinder with one of those motors for serrated knives following cliffs suggestion, works great.
I’m this video they are all ones I built from Wen or HF frames the Wen has a glass Platen and custom angle guide I made. But I recently replaced that entire Unit with a new 1x30 that I purchased and haven’t modified in any way just yet.
I have a brand new Toolcker 1 X 30 Belt Sander, less than an hour use and now all of a sudden it will not track, no matter the amount of adjustment. Can you tell me how o fix this issue or what I am doing wrong? Could it be the cheap belt they send with the machine? Thanks Chuck
Thanks for the tips but I have an angle question. I see you prefer 17 +/- which I agree is a good balance. Do you account for the primary bevel on the knife? Say kitchen knife with 1-2 degree primary and hunter with 6-8 degree. Would you compensate to include that angle so your 17 degrees would be accurate? Thanks for any advice, I really like your videos.
my preferred angles are 15-16 Japanese 17 Western edc , hunting 19-20 I take many factors into consideration when sharpening knives like the grind style and knives purpose. I don't get overly concerned with primary bevels on kitchen knives but I don't compensate on the angle most of the time I am matching existing knife angels anyway
Should I buy a 1x30 or a bench grinder and paper wheel system?
Bench grinder and paper wheels are good for sharpening some things but not great for knives as most run to hot and to fast. So depend what you want to sharpen
@@ALXSHARPEN
Mostly Knives, and I have a big, recurve machete that needs a new edge. I normally just use a whetstone, but I can’t with this big recurve. Looking for my first powered system and it seems a 1x30 or the paper wheels might be the thing to get. The new Ken onion looks nice but is pricey at $250 for the elite model with the blade sharpener attachment. I was thinking a 5/8 inch paper wheel set would be good for my recurve machete.
@@llamawizard I like 1x30 or 2x42 much better or even 1x42 for bigger things and for sharpening look for low speed buck tool has a nice 1x30 that’s bulky good for bigger things . I only like paper wheel for removing stubborn burrs. Go here and scroll down look for the black low speed buck tool www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
It’s $149 has half grinder and half 1x30 but it’s low speed far better for sharpening
@@ALXSHARPEN thanks!!!
What brand of 1x30 do you recommend?
www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening. The fist one here is my fav
the short version www.amazon.com/vdp/01184e42f34e4d10b549acea4246e5aa?ref_=aipsfvideo_aipsfalexandriaknifesharpeninglaserengraving&linkCode=ssc&tag=alxsharpen-20
can you recommend a variable speed 1/30 belt sander that you can get without buying a conversion kit add on! for knife sharpening.
amzn.to/3Ox1uRA
AMAZON sells two types of angle guides, one grinding blade up and the other grinding blade down. Which one is best?
Thats because some people like to sharpen edge leading and others edge trailing and if you don't modify the machine with a new motor you can work by laying the 1x30 flat. My machines have all been converted to run both directions. I don't like the laying of the 1x30 flat for sharpening because I do 95 percent of my sharpening edge leading and when stropping I just reverse the motor so I don't need angle guides that go in both directions. I also find it hard for me to sharpen that way because of the height of my downdraft table and at 5'8" I cant see the top of the work piece. But many sharpeners do like to work all edge leading with the machine flat or the make a dedicated stropping machine configured that way. I find edge tailing sharpening to slow and burr removal is harder that way IMO.
@@ALXSHARPEN Thanks. I guess it would make sense to grind in one direction and then strop in other. Sharp knives do cut.
Did you use currycustoms mods on this 1x30?
yes and some of my own mods as well
The brass colored guide isn't wide enough to work on a craftsman 1x30.
You will have to make an adapter for that.
I put a piece of black Gorilla tape where you are using the Frog tape.
The Gorilla tape is thicker and tougher yet very smooth.
Have to tried that but can you send me a link to what you used exactly at Alxsharpening@gmail.com
Sorry I didnt see this in the past. Ill send you the Amazon link.
Hi Paul. Where do you have your 1x30 grounded to? I've been looking at that as I keep getting shocked from the static electricity when using it.
I do have a grounding rod that goes into the ground behind my downdraft table but during certain conditions usually dry low humidty the shocks in my shop can suck so when it's bad I use one of these. I really like the metal wrist band one I have the cloth one as well if you hook to the frame of the 1x30 you will have no shocks just be sure to remove any paint where you clip to the frame. amzn.to/3nFDeSE
Ok
Where do you get this angle guide?
I have asked this question to every video on this subject……
No answer…… is this top secret?
The link is in the video description on RUclips as well as my website go here scroll down you can't miss it www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
Hey do you know if the newer 1 by 30 belt sander from harbor freight is ok to modify with the aftermarket parts available on line for turning them into precision knife sharpners? I looked today for the sander your using in this video and did not see it available
I have seen it and read the specs and it sounds like all they did was paint it a new color and add a larger engine. The new color is pretty cool. I doubt they changed anything else so it should work fine. I do know that Amazon still sells the ones I used here is the link to them amzn.to/3MQ9lZN
@@ALXSHARPEN awesome thank you.!!
I think I saw an alligator clip on one of your 1x30's. Is that for static electricity? Ive noticed a lot of build up (of charge), and get shocked. I've been putting a ground strap on my wrist to discharge the static. It works, but feels dangerous to have that teather on my wrist.
Any insight?
During some weather conditions in my shop I have had some static mostly in the fall when it’s really dry I ran a ground wire to them as well that also helps
What is “precision”?
Guess I have to buy one and mod it for my 2" x 42"
I have not seen one for a 2x42 wish they would make one .I made one from my Bucktool tool guide I called the company to buy a second one to modify and they gave me a second angle guild for free. Very nice company. They told me they are working on some things for sharpener.
Why 17 degrees?
This is all generally speaking there are always exceptions but from sharpening thousands of knives for both restaurants residential and pro chefs for several years now. I get to see the condition they come back in after needing sharpening again. I have found for residential customers (home use) 17 has incredible sharpness and good retention. I do not use that for professional kitchens and prep cooks the need 19-20 they are much harder on their knives and when I did 17 for them they needed lots of re-profiling work ….Japanese’s knives I like 15-16 in general some can be much lower but these would be Shun ,Miyabi,Global mostly your consumer Japanese Knives 🔪
@@ALXSHARPEN thank you for sharing!!
For roughing out a knife 1x30 is good but to restore an edge, I find it removes too much. Also for restoring an edge. I like to pull the burr to the edge which I am finding out gives a superior edge which lasts longer. Only my experience.
It’s all good we do what works best for us and how we sharpen also keep in mind my 1x30 are custom and variable speed so I have very good control over material removal a non converted 1x30 I agree removes way to much runs hot and hard to control
This is a great video, thank you! I've just started using a 1x30 and figured out using the angle cube and reaming out the slots, but the other mod plus the Frog Tape are great tips. I'll be doing those. I happened to be looking through you videos when this one posted looking for something. Did you have a video, or at least say something in one ,about something to add to you respirator to easily hook and unhook it?
That’s a 3M mask that has that option I do have a link to it in one of my videos. It’s really great. I shared it with the Guild of Professional Sharpeners members and many have purchased it and everyone so far loves it. I’ll find the link for you.
@@ALXSHARPEN Thank you!
www.amazon.com/3M-Comfort-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator/dp/B00IF7RCU6?crid=RSMLQCKRSGH0&keywords=3m+mask+quick+release&qid=1665938569&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjAwIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=3mmask+quick+release,aps,99&sr=8-2&linkCode=sl1&tag=alxsharpen-20&linkId=78169c5c41256441ee2f9a243dd15ebc&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
ruclips.net/video/vsbafn-qTZo/видео.html
This video I talk about the masks
wunnerful
Well, I have seen all sorts of angle guides, mostly for my wood shop for my lathes and my planes and chisels. That one is junk, not worth the effort of fixing. I am sure there must be better ones out there some where...I would want to be able to zero the angle guide against the belt for plumb, and then set the desired angle. I guess it is like most of the angle jigs that come on the standard bench grinders, not worth the effort of trying to use....
Not that I have been able to find and doing this works great for all the sharpeners I know and I know several people doing it and using what I did here. I wish I could find better but have not located one yet. I always look but I am open to a better one if someone invents one.
Well, maybe you will have to invent one. The ones you have don't appear to be worth more than the metal they are made from. I did see a set up from Woodpeckers which is for drilling angles on the drill press. It has geared teeth on a table, and a spring loaded gear so the teeth mesh at about 1 degree increments. I made a rest for my turning tools called the robo rest. There is a new and improved version called Right Angle tool rest which is a new and improved version of mine. The main problem with the ones for turning tools is that we don't need angles more acute than about 25 degrees. Veritas does make an articulated rest for grinders, but due to the articulated part, if you just look at it wrong, the angles change. Some practical minded person will figure one out for your belt grinders, eventually. Oh, Sorby tools has a belt grinder for turning tools and they have a couple of pre set angles on theirs, but again, probably not acute enough for kitchen knives....
@@robohippy yes kitchen knives have some interesting things that can be a problem like bolsters so it’s really helpful that the rest and the belt be the same size so you can hit the entire blade. But I have multiple tools for sharpening and some have far better and more precision angle guides if necessary these do what I need but would always welcome better if someone make one.
I would use a old leather glove that was worn out and cut a piece out to perfectly fit instead of using that tape just a thought
I think it would get dirty too fast and also add to much height. I do know some people like to teflon tape.
@@ALXSHARPEN you blow it off with pressurized air from your compressor periodically but no it doesn't get dirty that fast
@@ALXSHARPEN I should have said that differently also already have it in practice it works really well and you don't have to continuously change it out
Hold did you attach it ,glue?
@@ALXSHARPEN I use E6000 industrial strength glue
That digital angle guide takes five seconds to zero? Get a Wixey. Press the button and it's zeroed.
I have 2 in my shop
Precision?