Tear-Down: Enermax Liqtech Threadripper Cooler
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- Taking apart the Enermax Liqtech 240 TR4 liquid cooler, primarily to determine whether the microfins span the entire Threadripper coldplate.
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Find our review of the Enermax Liqtech coolers here: • 360 vs. 240 Radiator f...
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Игры
Find our review of the Enermax Liqtech coolers (360mm & 240mm) here: ruclips.net/video/6jICNXAQrgs/видео.html
Link to the cooler in the description.
To me it does look like that block was machined, however I would need some more photos to give you a good assessment. What your looking for is some ejector pin or parting line markings www.finishing.com/314/31470.jpg www.diecastingdesign.org/studies/case3/images/Parting%20Line.jpg . These are a dead giveaway that it was die cast, but will be fairly difficult to find consider that the part looks like it was also put through a vibratory mill to clean up the surface finish before anodizing. Another way that you can check is to see if the bottom of the pocket is perfectly perpendicular to the sides. Die casting requires a small draft angle to make it so that the part can be ejected from the mold, so if it is perpendicular, you'll know that it was milled. Since this is a relatively low volume product, milling makes more sense in some ways, due to the expense of manufacturing the molds for die casting
I thinks its powder metal formed which is cheaper and more precise then casting and cheaper then machining. every single drill has gears which are made out of powdered metal, atleast with cordless types today. only way to tell is took at it with a microscope.
+Risto Mladich I knew I was forgetting about a manufacturing method! I have to agree with you on this, especially since you are able to make internal threads with sintering. Perhaps it would be too difficult for those T10s, but the reduction in manufacturing steps would make it much more cost effective
Risto & Inspector -- thanks for the comments! I have been wanting to learn more about these processes, and this is a good start. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge! ^SB
If you want to clean it you apparently should buy some Primochill Vue.
good to see iFixit sponsoring someone who actually uses more than just a phillips head.
WrothBog This is so accurate, it hurts
I think the liquid is neon green in color because that would make finding leaks much easier by using a black light
Great vid. Good product . Love how it is easily user serviceable and also redesigned instead of repurposed . Products like this deserve more recognition
From what I can see and hear, the block appears to be cnc machined from billet aluminum (most likely 6061), polished, bright dipped, hardcoat anodized, dyed black and sealed.
It's definitely not sand cast and it doesn't look like any of the die cast parts I've worked with. There's a really slim chance it could be lost wax investment casting with a boatload of post process work.
Yeah thats what I was thinking too, it looks like its done by CNC to me. Can you cast something with thin walls like that on the one side? I don't know much about it but I would think that CNC would be the best way to get an precise and consistent size, I thought shrinkage would be a problem on something with that thin on the one side?
I came here to say that. Walls with different thickness might be possible, but a nightmare to do it. It might costs even more than machining a block.
It really looks like an expensive product to manufacture (and designed from the ground up for a niche market? )
The issue with the thin wall and casting would be porosity. The air in the mold has nowhere to go and gets trapped in the metal. This could be overcome by post cast machining, but it'd be simpler and cheaper just to cut it from raw stock. Sand and investment casting also have a rough finish which would require too much post process work. Die casting gets rid of both problems with pressure and a smooth mold, but there's always a parting line, so more post process work.
The part would not be overly difficult or expensive to CNC machine from stock on a pallet changing horizontal mill. 5 of the 6 sides can be machined in 1 setup and then flipped to hit the 6th. I run a horizontal machining center for a firefighting equipment manufacturer and we do that kind of part all day long. With economy of scale and cheap labor (or automation), I'd put that part in the $10-15 range for cost of production.
EDIT - And because this is the kind of group that would find this stuff interesting...this is the type of machine I use and machining I do. :)
ruclips.net/video/n5X74Shzais/видео.html
definitely milled from a block of aluminium
Thanks, Kenneth & all in this thread. As noted in the video, it helps a lot to have the experts come out of the woodwork to help fill-in the gaps for me. I have been trying to learn more about manufacturing processes, and your comments are very helpful! ^SB
I love these teardowns. It is a great help for people either buying the product or that own one. Thanks GN.
This is the part where you fill it with distilled water and a few drops of anti-bacterial and see how it performs compared to the premade mixture
Horribly. It's likely an aluminum radiator with a copper block. Without an anti corrosive you'd experience galvanic corrosion pretty quickly.
Craig MacDaniel I thought the tubes were copper and the fins were aluminum. Is the whole rad seriously aluminum?
Everything I can find on the net lists the radiator as simply "aluminum", and most other AIO's use full aluminum rad's as well (except for those expandable ones from EK and Fractal). Which is another reason they don't want you to disassemble and refill them, because refilling them without an anti corrosive is asking for disaster.
Craig MacDaniel
True, over the long term; however, water is a better thermal fluid altogether than polypropylene glycol, and can absorb/dissipate heat far more effectively, so initially would outperform the green goop.
I was hoping this would happen!! Convinced me to use this in my Threadripper build.
Totally different views to every other tech channel, keep it up love the detail
Pretty late to the party, but this cooler is well known to corrode itself and cause thermal issues. Replacing the liquid inside with an anti-corrosive is highly recommended before installing.
Would coolant from Koolance be a good option to consider?
@@elvintp10 judging by extended testing with different solutions, the cooler itself is just fucked. Replacing the coolant won't help
Good work Steve!
Awesome tare down! Always good to see this content. Ave has some really good videos on how to check what kind of manufacturing processes and materials were used and could really help bring another level to some of these kind of reviews. He covers metals, plastics and a bunch of other stuff. At this point the failure point looks like it would be the pcb and it's components (outside of permeation). It would be interesting to see if they used any conformal coating or anything to account for possible leakage or what kinds of components were used on the pcb. Just thoughts, keep em comin!
Awesome, it's not just a re-purposed asetek cold plate.
Very good video. I've never taken an AIO before, but I have an Enermax ELC-LMR120-BS Liqmax II 120s / ELC-LMR120-BS for my AMD setup, and been fantastic, and in a year, or 2 I will I have to check it out, and see if it can be refilled with new coolant to extend it's life.
Kudos to Enermax for the ease of servicing. This may save some coolers from the trash.
Wow, I'm really impressed with that cooler's design.
That Enermax looks purdy
That looks like food to me! *drinks*
Peppermint Schnapps!
The magnet bit and the flexible extender work well together
The question posed for this video was "do the micro fins extend across the whole surface area of the plate?". Steve's 13-minute answer: Yes. Jokes aside, thanks for the interesting teardown, I always wanted to see what is inside of these things.
For sure do a re-assembly video. Work or fail it will be informative and fun!!!
Good Job Enermax!
Good job failing at doing a good job and having to recall ALL STOCK!
5:42 really funny seeing this retrospectively
Awesome video! That thing looks cnc'd to me definitely not sand casted.
Wow that's actually a very impressive and high quality product. If I had a threadripper build I would get the 360mm version
3:28 if you want a mini heart attack
A Cat have you ever had a heart attack? (I hope not because it’s very painful) If not please don’t use the context to make jokes...
haris javed I’ve went into cardiac arrest multiple times. torsades de pointes to be exact and was hit with the paddles. And I’m not offended. I think you need to get off your high horse and stop virtue signaling. Obviously was a light hearted comment.
haris javed Oh, come on, it's a light hearted joke. I have epilepsy and I still laugh with the seizure jokes.
Lmao that scared me too
Please make a step-by-step video of you replacing the liquid. I'd like to see what it entails and things to look out for.
Can almost guarantee that was machined from billet Aluminum then polished with some sort of shaker media and black anodized.
I wouldn’t be surprised if the coolant is actually off the shelf ethylene glycol based green coolant .
Discoloration is probably just some of the anticorrosives and related chemicals slightly reacting with the copper. Could also just be the dye slightly staining the metal .
Would this pump (or cooler as a whole) as quiet or louder than the NZXT Kraken X62? I'm thinking of swapping out the NZXT for the 360mm Enermax one. Thanks!
Would love to see a video about rebuilding and refilling CLCs.
I bought an Enermax tr4 280 for my Threadripper build in feb, 2018.8 months later( 10-28-2018) my cpu was over heating @ 70c idle temps.I took it apart to find one of the inlet/outlet ports was 100% clogged with debris similar to the 'grey gunk' you saw in this one.after removing the pump it became obvious that the coolant Enermax used in mine was brown in color and had ALOT of debris chunks in it and the aluminum had severe corrosion and deep pitting.The copper cold plate looked nearly perfect so I'd guess the coolant used in my model is highly corrosive to aluminum.After doing some research about this on various forums etc. many others are having the same problems with Enermax liquid coolers.
It looks like an extruded bar that's cut and (cnc) milled. It's one of the best methods for high quality mass production.
No food ❤️
Responsible youtuber ❤️
The mark of a quality part is if you can disassemble it and reassemble and have it function again. As for the base, if you don't see any machine marks its most likely MIM'd [metal injection molded] its a bit different than die casting. It gives a bit more control on grain size in the part be I g cast.
you guys should do a teardown of the deepcool captain 240 ex
I want to see you refill it and test it again to see how it performs thermally.I'm thinking of using the 360 variant in an upcoming PC build and that info would be valuable.
Looking more like Thor everyday.
With just 4 Torx 6 screws, looks like you could easily change the oritentation of the Enermax logo depending on how you have to orientate the block and tubes.
Product reviews indicate these things are breaking down on people pretty reliably. (August 2018)
All of them got recalled, so that's even worse that breaking down reliably...
Realy interesting. :-)
Please show us when you refill it and with what liquid.
That thing is surprisingly skookum; it makes the Asetek ones look pretty chintzy.
That jacket housing looks like a machined aluminum part, to me.
Do a video about servicing liquid coolers. That would be a great thing to cover. I actually have an older one where the pump is still good, but the liquid most likely needs replacing (it's about 4 years old). I don't use it on my current build, but would be nice to put it back into service on an older AMD FX machine I still have.
From what I c here this could the best aio cooler on the market
That liquid looks like Gatorade...
Drink some its good!!
Maybe milled to spec from a block then tapped for the screws. Can't really tell though due to the paint job they did with the paint
It seems very well built for me. Enermax is betting hard on threadripper, it seems
It looks like Enermax did a good job all the way around with this cooler.
Look pretty well built. But some damage in the tube sleeve (nylon it seems) visible at 11:50 , maybe from the taking apart handling, or is it maybe too easy to damage?
I design hydronic systems for a living (boilers and stuff) and that discoloration could be due to the pH of the glycol mix. When heated is has the tendency to become acidic over time and if they didnt balance the pH after adding the glycol, to what I would assume is distilled water, you could something like that. If the pH was off before that it could be even worse obviously.
We see similar stuff in the industry when people with in ground snow/ice melt systems never maintain their glycol. It has caused heat exchangers in boilers to leak given enough time.
Good insight and you were probably right, heaps of people have reported leaks and corrosion with these coolers in the time since.
Any way you can look at their version 2? Supposedly they fixed their gen 1 issues of corrosion and pump failures but I'm still hesitant
Hey Steve, how big is the coldplate/block since its so easy to take apart and also seems to be very high quality im wondering if I could youse it for a ridgid tube clc mod with self machined parts.
I'd like to see a reassembly
After 6 months, my T2 Temp on my 1950x is 77c just watching this video... I got the "Enermax Liqtech TR4 II 360 Addressable RGB AIO Liquid CPU Cooler" on the way and I will gut my current rig and post the results. I will try to restore the unit in case the new Enermax has the same problem. :-(
Will you be doing any tear-down videos of "gaming" headphones?
Is Corsair H100i V2 and Corsair H60-80i better than this?
Just want to know, i don't see anywhere the review between Enermax coolers with those for Threadripper.
No, there is no other production CLC that works as well as this one for Threadripper. The Enrmax Liqtech 240/360 are both exceptionally good coolers, for TR & a LOT better than any other CLC on the market. Unless you went with a custom loop, these are the best it gets, when it comes to cooling, for Threadripper. And before anyone says it, yes they are better than the Noctua TR air-coolers, too.
10 months later and all the enermax ones have fallen apart, do not buy if you value your threadripper check out some of the reviews on amazon or wherever
This repair is definitely necessary - my Liqtech cooler was far worse than any other I've seen, but I've also seen posts from tons of people with terrible corrosion issues. HOWEVER, don't be like this guy in this video. Get yourself a 40ml syringe from your local feed store (or Amazon) - it makes it super easy to refill your radiator and water block, and helps you accurately measure how much you put in (and it costs like $2). Using a funnel and a cup is... well, it's as hard as he makes it look, or harder. Having said that, my pump housing is so pitted that I don't think it'll last through more than 2-3 repairs - after that, I think it'll literally corrode through, and leak in the case. Finally, for what it's worth, my cooler seems to be running just fine at 100% capacity 3 months after a cleanout, filled with about 70% distilled water and about 30% 50/50 pre-mix automotive antifreeze (NAPA brand) with a tiny quarter of a drop of Dawn detergent in the liquid, added with a toothpick.
You say the pump housing is pitted. Do you think if you had drained the original coolant before even using it, you could have avoided pitting?
@@turdfurguson2609 - would have been worth a shot I suppose, but who knows. The fluid that came out was quasi-congealed, yellow in color, and has some nasties floating in it (well, suspended/sinking in it). I have no idea what it was originally. But, I will say that they've got aluminum parts right up next to copper parts in a fluid medium - that's just asking for ion exchange and corrosive effects. So, I have no idea if better fluid from the beginning would have made a difference.
@@tymarbutinstructionalvideo9726 hello! Since writing the first response, I have been doing a lot of studying on aluminum and copper galvanic corrosion. Also I bought a new in box liqtech tr4 version 2. I dismantled it without running it, and found no pitting on the pump housing. I do not know the condition of the inside of the aluminum rad though.
Since posting I have learned that anodized aluminum parts are considered safe, as aluminum oxide is non reactive electrically. So the pump housing is PROBABLY ok.
My hypothesis is that the fluid was bad and the copper was reacting with the aluminum in the rad. Then gumming up the fins and possibly aiding in pitting of the pump housing.
Anyhow, I plan on putting good fluid in, and running a full copper radiator, just using the aio pump/block combo for the full coverage of the IHS.
@@turdfurguson2609 well, good luck of course. I've heard the v2 should be somewhat improved, but I'll also say that my pump block was also anodized and it seems like there just needs to be a little microscopic break in the anodization for a pit to form... Or something. Anyway, hopefully your v2 stays running longer than mine did!
Curious how different types of liquid would perform, only concern really being interactions with metals/plastics of course. I might try it lol
would have liked to see the fins held up against the threadripper CPU with the sharpie marks showing the die locations just for a size reference.
how long we can clean (maintain) ECOMASTER Enermax Liquid Cooler Liqmax II Series? Every year or every 6 months?
Do u guys recommend this clc to cool a i7 6700k skylake?
I just bought one of these and it seems OK when running, but in the package there was a bit of liquid on the block which I wiped off before installing. I see no leaks as it is running. Is it safe to leave it or should I try to return it? I have never bought one of these before and I don't know if this is normal or a sign of defect.
How do they go about manufacturing the microfins?
What's changing in the refresh of the pro tech tool kit?
Also wondering, why can't they use a special solvent that can help to prevent gunk buildup? that seems to be the main issue with liquid cooling and why they need regular servicing.
This thing is definitely CNC machined. Die cast stuff would have draft on the sidewalls and ejection pin circles. on the inner surface.
Ill watch this later if i remember
The body looks casted, because it has small circles at some places that are usually an indicator for that.
If it would be machined, you would see machining traces, i think.
you can see one of those small circles i'm talking about at 11:52 on the inside right lower corner underneath the upper screw hole.
But i could be wrong.
so whats new with the refreshed Protech toolkit?
Glad you were impressed worth the cold plate, now you can stop being biased against them just because they're a smaller manufacturer
Can we get a affiliate link to the normal 64 bit kit? That has everything I need and I want to support the channel.
Enermax just sent me a liqtech ii after I noticed reduced performance with my original purchase.
Just watched a teardown of the liqtech ii on another channel and it seemed like they didn't improve the coolant and even noticed the same gunk starting to build up.
Wondering if I should try and replace the liquid with a better coolant that won't corrode.
Wondering if you had any luck replacing the coolent with a better one?
Hmm, can you replace the hose with custom nipples? Like if you want to integrate that pump into a custom loop.
what size led's? looks 0603 for me.
What are the box temps on that Blue bowl?
Is that literally just a DDC impeller/motor with a proprietary control board and pump housing?
Steve the ENERMAX LIQTECH TR4 II is out? Any chance to review it and do a teardown?
If copper and aluminum are installed in a conductive medium (water - any kind, even pure) they will produce a galvanic differential of about .58 volts, and the aluminum will be taken into solution. This will happen very quickly if the copper is screwed to the aluminum as is the case here (shorting the battery). The white gunk/paste found in this and similarly constructed coolers is aluminum oxide which precipitates out once the coolant (electrolyte) is saturated. It's very hard and abrasive, and will kill the pump pretty quickly. If the cooling loop was all copper or all aluminum, all would be well. This is common knowledge to experienced engineers, which are apparently in short supply at PC component manufacturers. If you doubt me, search "Aluminum/copper battery" It's a high school experiment, and also the bane of boat builders as well as computer accessory builders.
If all their pumps are like this, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Enermax clc's to anyone. If I wasn't going to do a custom loop I'd be buying one when my current clc dies.
Gamers Nexus- can you start testing flow rates when disassembling CLCs please?
Maybe pull off a hose, submerge one end in water, & time the flow rate for a gallon/liter whatever? With/without the radiator?
I'd also like to see a roundup of the different pumps categories
Other than satisfying your curiosity, what would be the benefit of that test?
Basically to dispel misinformation/hearsay/rumors @ watercooling and instead publish some facts (something I think GN prides itself in).
The question started with youtubing "corsair flow rate" and realizing that there's a lot of bullshit being spread @ what a bare minimum necessary flow rate is
Expanding on that:
-To gather & share more info with the public @ common misconceptions (the idea that 0.5-1.5gpm+ is necessary for watercooling, or offers significant benefits to temps)
-To get some compilation going about pump styles & pros/cons. All I really know(?) is that Asetek is a supplier for most(?) companies marketing AIOs due to patent(?). I think Swiftech uses a different pump style with their radiator mounted pump/reservoir. I think the Fractal Kelvin isn't available in the USA due to patent, but AFAIK it has a very strong pump in comparison to something like a Corsair. I think the Antec Kuhler had a moderately strong pump in comparison to the Corsair. Steve seems to be in a good position to gather knowledge like this due to his contacts working in the industry.
-Testing flow rate is relatively easy if an AIO is going to be destroyed, and usually can be done without destroying it.
-To share some info with people who are expanding their AIOs & (again) dispel some notions that a strong pump is necessary for 1+ radiators
-Teach people about what major versions of AIOs are available (is/how-is a Corsair different from a CoolerMaster/nzxt/deepcool/enermax/evga/etc). Are there any unique models on the market, and if so, what are they.
Some tested data I've found:
[[[[[[[[[ If you google "Radiator roundup 2016" & follow the xtremerigs-net link, page 3 of the article will share some data about Differential Pressure (PSI) variation in a couple dozen radiators - which varies widely between 0.02 -2.20 PSI depending on flow volume (gpm) & radiator model
The article continues on to publish comparisons of 0.5gpm vs. 1.0gpm vs. 1.5gpm flow rate effect on Delta T on page 4 (the difference between 0.5-1.5 GPM can be as little as 1 degree Celcius)
The full chart is shown on page 5- (they use Watts/10DeltaT) the results are typically only @1-10watts of variation (~5%) between 0.5-1.5GPM ]]]]]]]]]
Personal experience/stance:
I've seen people with multiple pumps, people running their pumps at 100%, people complaining about noise/temps etc. People fear mongering the dangers of 90 degree angles, tight bends, blocks, radiators, tube sizing, compression fittings, etc.
It seems like no one knows their shit & are stuck in an echo chamber regarding wc
I mean, why hasn't someone just:
-grabbed a pump. Turn it on. Record the flow rate at various PWM input
-attach a XXXmm radiator. Turn the pump on. Record " "
-attach a second " ". Turn the pump on. Record " "
-attach a third " ". Turn the pump on. Record " "
then expand the basic results with the other variables (like bends/tubing/etc)
If anyone can cut through the bullshit I think Steve can.
Plus I was under the impression GN was kinda sorta thinking @ getting into WC stuff due to the livestream etc. wc setup & it might be a win-win for GN + the community
the discoloration looks like the dye to me, it probably separates/concentrates if the fluid boils, might be why others use clear fluid.
Hello I have a quick question about aio . A friend of mine has one but unfortunately he can't tell me the name or brand of it as his PC is a pre-built . He has a 4770k at stock speeds and is getting 77 degrees on his CPU thermal paste has been replaced already with little difference. My theory is that the liquid in his aio is no longer of suitable quality to cool his CPU anymore so my question is considering it 4 years old is how often should you change the liquid in a aio and would he be better of just purchasing a new aio altogether. If it helps its a single 120 radiator.
Hayden Madden I have a Corsair H90 cooler that has been running for 5 years or so. Your friends temps are a bit right depending on airflow and radiator placement.
I'm waiting for mine to fail and have thermal overload protection on in the bios. Theory is, one day I'll come home and the pc will be off. I'm constantly checking CPU temp, fan speed etched so it'll be immediately obvious to me when my cooler dies.
You should refill it with pure distilled water and see if it changes temps vs stock now that it doesn't need the propylene gylcol for shipping. It might be worth making a custom bracket for x299 and seeing if that benefits it over a normal aio.
That channel in the middle of the cold plate is a bit confusing. Normally they're there with an inlet above that channel so liquid goes out in 2 opposite directions, right? But with the gasket I guess it's just to reduce surface tension along the channels?
It could also be to re-distribute the liquid , so that any blockage (gunk) renders less of the surface area useless or uneven pressure is equalized. Or maybe we are overthinking it and it's simply there because the tool (or cutting parameters) limited the length of the fins.
I'm fairly sure that the rad is aluminum while the cold plate is copper. That's gonna corrode so quickly without an anti-corrosion additive like propylene glycol. The liquid appears neon green like antifreeze because it essentially is antifreeze. Propylene glycol is used because it's non-toxic when ethylene glycol can't be used.
Pyromanaic28
That silicone pad/gasket is even more confusing. The fin arrangement looks like CoolerMaster's ML-120RGB thermal plate fin array, except that CM's seems to be machined into thin fins, and the water path is definitely from the middle out; while this one's path is from one side to the other under the silicone pad. It's almost as if they tried middle-out first, and either didn't get it to work, or (most likely) got lawyer-slapped before they got to production.
Side-to-side isn't an ideal flow path, because the dies on the far side will always run hotter than the ones under the first part of the path. Kinda goofy, if ya ask me.
I am guessing the discoloration is from an additive that causes the glycol have the toxic yellow color.
I can see push pins for an injection molding machine, however there is obviously been some machining work done to the block, however I do not know much about plastic machining, so I can't say for certain what it is, idk if Delrin can be injection molded.
Joshua Nicoll yep you can injection mold Delrin!
KW0311 USMC then that would be perfect, its a really nice to machine plastic and lubricates the moving parts. My cheap EK SPC pumps use the top delrin cap as a bearing surface, makes them pretty nice for the price.
The housing is actually made of aluminium, not plastic. Also, the EK SPC lineup uses re-branded Laing DDC pumps, which are not cheap by any means - for that, you would have to look at something like a Phobya DC-12.
Oh, and the pump tops are made of POM because they look good - there's a whole slew of other materials that they could use, since the "low friction" aspect of POM isn't actually that relevant, as the pumps are designed around the principle of a fluid-dynamic bearing (i.e. the Rotating part does not touch the housing).
I thought it looked a little like metal, in the screw holes in particular, but I wasn't sure if that was just some kind of threadlock, so then it's injection molded and machined for the block.
The EK SPC is not anything to do with Laing, it's designed by EK, Liang has had no part in making it, at all. Delrin isn't so much used for looks, but because all the pump tops, block tops and such are CNC milled (I'm looking at the XTOP part are it's 100% CNC milled) and Delrin is basically one of the most machinable plastics there is, it's really nice to machine. I can however confirm, that the pump impeller does rest on the delrin top, it's not a tight fit though, the liquid is meant to lubricate it, but the plastic and impeller are bearing surfaces. The rest is certamic as you'd expect from a pump.
Joshua Nicoll You're right about the pump - didn't catch up on that. But I hope the rotating bit is not touching the top, as that would scratch the clear (Acrylic?) tops and also create imbalance long term.
The pump housing looks CNC milled. I doubt it is billet, though it is small enough that it could be and not be waistful, depends on what the cheaper way to get the base material is I would think. Unless they choose billet for product quality. Lol, I am not helping. It could also be case hardened but the only real way to know is to either cut it in half and test the rockwell hardness or to ask the company of the manufacturing process. For the purpose of it, the only real thing it needs to worry about is heat transfer and use of sealing surfaces. It doesn't carry a load other than supporting its weight and a portion of the hoses.
a TR20 Torx bit aye lol, all this talk of sockets has got my blood pressure ryzen
Pump housing - pressure diecast aluminium?
The pump housing appears to be a machined casting.
Nothing wrong with Asetek screws if you use a PZ1 bit. Of course Steve knows this now.
I would need it in hand, hard to see the body on screen.
Milk that cooler baby! :D
Torx T20. You said TR20 cuz threadripper on the mind 😁
Wow. Self-serviceable AIO? That makes these Enermax units even more attractive for their price. Forget self-service, most AIO aren't even designed to let the factory service them. They're designed as use-once, throw away.
Does it matter?
Yeah... Cooler looks to be OK but no food bowl is what I learned ; D
anybody have one of these fail? Seemed great quality, my pump failed after 5 months (enermax 360 tr4) and i switched to noctua, enermax sent me a new unit but i am hesitant to put it back in, afraid it will go out on me and damage my CPU this time, built the threadripper machine i had it in after my koolance pump died and fried my i7
Yup, mine just did, bought it end of jan, so only a few months old, basically no flow left in the thing, pump is fine, probably filled with corrosion or so
who knows, they sent me a new one, not sure if i will be trusting it again- their RMA dept is very difficult to understand on the phone, and their emails are weird, somehow ive been sent 2 new pumps and 2 sets of headphones as well, no info at all on returning the faulty unit
they will not release an explanation for why these have been failing and what they have done to remedy it, I think Im going to keep my enermax in the box until they do
Already on a Noctua because my 360 was delivered dead on arrival, leaking everywhere on the unopened box, so sad....
Steve. Love the reviews, analytics, overall good common sense you apply to your work. But, please... please.... square your bit to the screw head.... every time I see you unscrew things you are torquing on the head at an angle. That will greatly increase the stress on the bit and the chance you will strip the screw or round the bit. Probably just my OCD, but watching you unscrew things is like you reviewing a case with no front air intake.
Keep up the awesome work!
his fav word is coldplate
12:27 Jesus at the last supper?
i want 64bit processing screwdriver