@@dranoer209 well the thing is I didn't do enough of a drop to really mess with camber so I can't really be of much help there. I suppose if I had I would have looked into using the eccentric bushings from whiteline but who knows if you can find an alignment shop who knows what to do with them.
Random thing i did that seemed to work out great, was setting my passenger side about 10mm lower than the driver side. This gives me a truly perfect ride height when I’m in then cockpit.
I thought about doing something like that but opted for it to be perfectly level in case passengers or whatever. I'm pretty lightweight anyway, though with age that's changing. Maybe I need to start hitting the gym......
@@evsnova74 hahaha dude honestly I think the difference is closer to 5mm. But I’m pretty sure the goat from the factory has more weight percentage on that side of the car than the passenger side. I could be wrong but the coolant expansion tank, car’s computer, the whole steering wheel/column LH drive and stock catback is moreso on the driver side and I like the feel when cornering to have my side a slight hair higher. Might just be cuz we drive on that side 🤣
Well thanks. The dampening adjustment on the shocks can get ridiculously stiff but I'm not sure how it affects the squat. The spring is what it is, I didn't get upgraded springs from swift. When the weather breaks and I get this thing off jack stands I'll try to get a video of a launch
@@willsperformancetech2933 right on. I've got the headers on, front sway bar and cradle have been replaced. But I haven't touched anything in the rear yet so I'm still hoping I can even get this done before the weather breaks.
This weekend, 2/19 I’m putting the bc br series on my 04 gto. I’ve been watching your whole series on this daily for a couple weeks now. I really liked the final ride height on the front so I’m going to start with your 65mm measurement and see if it’s the same on my car. The rear I want a little higher than you ended with. Goal is 275 tires at some point. Did you ever measure the rear adjuster thing on top of the spring? How far from the seat of it to the bottom spanner bolt? Thank you for these videos again. I know you said next your doing the rear cradle and I hope it’s soon. That’s my next move as well. I already have an entire extra one in the back of my Astro van. I put a short up showing the play in the pinion and ring gear.
I can easily measure the spring in the rear next time I'm in the shop. And I will be doing the rear bushings soon but I don't know when the video will go up. I still need to get the pinion seal too
@@goat_life254 I started on my rear suspension yesterday, got everything removed from the control arms, dropped the differential mount and popped one of the sub frame bushings out. Right now I have easy access to the control arm bolts so apart from pressing the bushings out somehow it's all downhill from here. I'll go ahead and drop these videos first but I don't know when I'll get back over there to finish up. Maybe I'll get a day off this week and make it over there but if not I don't see how I wouldn't have this wrapped up by next saturday. Oh and I measured that spring perch and I think it was 1 5/16" between the upper adjuster and the top of the perch itself but I didn't write it down nor take a pic because my phone was having a new screen installed at the time. I may try to go over there today after church and get something done on it and will confirm.
@@evsnova74 I got all of it installed yesterday. I went with your measurements of 65mm in the front and it’s low. Real low. I remembered you have factory wheels which are 17” and mine are 18”. My fenders have been rolled so maybe it’ll be alright. I took it around the block and there doesn’t seem to be much travel. I had to cut off one of my ball joints with a sawzall. The rears I adjusted about a centimeter from it’s highest point. And they are slightly uneven. So today I’m going to lower the rear some and probably lift the front 5mm. I showed one of my friends that rear end and he thinks it’s fine. All that noise is in the rotors cuz they are loose. But the pinion has almost no slop it turns axles immediately. So I’ll start buying the bushings and the alignment tool. Once my suspension is settled I’ll put my driveline in to make sure it works. It’s a Hinson and slot of people don’t like them. But my new diff is an 05-06 so it’s got a different bolt pattern. My stock one won’t work so I need to be sure this one is good or order a new one. My car has the 3.46 gears and my new ones are 3.90. Can’t wait to see what that does for me. But I’ve lost my drag bags. I’ll be able to tell you if it’s better or worse. I was okay with the factory height in the rear so if it’s too bad I’ll put my original setup back and just keep the bc shock. Thank you bro. I’ll be watching these next ones daily and in two months that other cradle will be going in.
@@goat_life254 I had to get factory 18s to run these Brembos but the beauty of measuring from the fender lip to the center of the hub is that it takes the wheel out of the equation. Apparently there is a lot of variance from car to car with these, you'll just have to play with it and get it where you want it. At least that measurement is in the ballpark, if you watch the Josh's car corner video he jacks it way up for the initial adjustment and it's like 3 or 4 inches between the top of the tire and the fender lol
Dude I figured out why I had so much space between the retainer plate and the coil over assembly. My OEM style mounts i bought were crap. Bought a new one for the driver from GTOG8TA and had it shipped to replace and now there’s no gap. Downside, is now my driver side camber is a lot more negative. The passenger side even when lowered, didn’t affect the camber much at all and I’m assuming due to the faulty mounts. Anyhow my question is now that I freakin loctited the clevis bolts and the caliper bracket bolt, and I know I have to adjust the camber do I need to remove all those in order to add some positive camber back? Or can I just mess with the camber bolt without removing those 3 🙃. Should’ve switched around my clevis bolts like you did from the start
You're adjusting your own camber? How are you measuring it? I'd be letting an alignment shop do that. And no the caliper bolt doesn't need to come out, you just loosen the clevis bolts, I probably wouldn't worry about loctiting either, I doubt alignment shops do but I may be wrong. Worst case just remove the nut and loctite again, though the bolt will still have some loctite on it. Maybe get one of those plumber's wire brushes for copper, idk the bolt is big enough though
@@evsnova74 nah I’m definitely gonna have an alignment shop do my alignment for sure. I need to put tires on up front. My only concern was now that the whole coilover assembly sits in there right with the mount proper.. there is a lot of negative camber on the driver side. Pass side is still fine because I haven’t swapped the pass side mount out yet (pass side still has a lot of gap between retainer plate and frame of car) so the camber on pass side is fine til I get a new mount for that one. Driver side is all set up all ready to rock but driver side camber is super neg. Should I mess with it? Or at least screw in for a little more positive? And if I do, do I need to remove the clevis bolts or loosen them to mess with the camber? I’m not actually setting any of the camber/caster/toe settings myself. Just wanted to get the driver side as close to normal as possible before going to align.
@@permabulk1454 one trip to the alignment shop isn't going to cause any noticable tire wear on the inner edge on that side, but it wouldn't be hard to just loosen the clevis bolts slightly and tighten the camber bolt at the top of the knuckle a little either.
@@evsnova74 yea that’s exactly what I’m sort of asking. Do I loosen the clevis bolts to adjust the camber bolt? And is it screw in for positive camber screw out for negative? Or vice Versa
@@permabulk1454 yep just loosen them a little. Pretty sure when you screw in the camber bolt it forces the top of the knuckle outward, making it more positive.
What’s up man, I’m probably bugging the shit out of you at this point 🤣 I think we’ve even talked on the forums before (ls1gto) anyway I installed my front coils and am needing some serious guidance on the top retainer nut and it’s gap between the retainer plate and the strut tower. Do you have an Instagram we can talk over so I can send you what my concern is and you can maybe let me know if it’s wrong or right/and or what you did with your BCs!? I’d appreciate it dude. The BC BRs you have are basically the better version of my meganEZs and I can’t get the knobs in nor do I feel comfortable with where my retainer plates are sitting. It’s harder to communicate via RUclips comments sadly
I could probably set one up but I just recently got back on RUclips. Raymond Barnsley is definitely my real name and not a fake one if you wanna dm me on there.
@@evsnova74 okay yea cool. Man it totally blew my mind, everyone has recommended Andy from Kollar racing for like a decade now. I’ve messaged him twice ever and both times were super unpleasant. This last time I messaged basically seeing what I could get with a thousand(which could’ve gotten me all Pedders springs shocks etc for 860 and a discount or the full Megan set for 705 shipped) he basically just told me to screw off that he doesn’t deal with cheap crap and that he has absolutely nothing in my price range (which is false) so idk what that was about. But kinda made me feel weird even going back on there. Almost like people get off on talking down to you lol. I’ll shoot you a dm
@@permabulk1454 yeah I ordered all my coilovers and front bushings from him and told him to ship it to my shop, which was different from the PayPal address and he got all pissed and said to cancel the order and re order with "the CORRECT address". I was like shit man I didn't know I had to make sure the PayPal address was correct jeez never mind just ship it to my house lol
Thanks man this going to help me out when I install my BC coilovers this weekend, rebuilding my suspension and your videos are going to help out alot
Glad to hear it, lemme know how it goes, I can't always remember to include everything when recording
@@evsnova74 will do man thank you!
@@evsnova74 did you have to get camber correction plates for the coilovers? Or where you still able to align it with out them?
@@dranoer209 well the thing is I didn't do enough of a drop to really mess with camber so I can't really be of much help there. I suppose if I had I would have looked into using the eccentric bushings from whiteline but who knows if you can find an alignment shop who knows what to do with them.
Thanks for making all these! very informative, very good guide! I did my suspension last summer, this would have come in handy.
This video also confirmed my desire for Russel or any braided brake lines 😊
Great videos
Random thing i did that seemed to work out great, was setting my passenger side about 10mm lower than the driver side. This gives me a truly perfect ride height when I’m in then cockpit.
Damn you really are bulky lol
I thought about doing something like that but opted for it to be perfectly level in case passengers or whatever. I'm pretty lightweight anyway, though with age that's changing. Maybe I need to start hitting the gym......
@@evsnova74 I fucking am bro 😂😂😂😂
@@evsnova74 hahaha dude honestly I think the difference is closer to 5mm. But I’m pretty sure the goat from the factory has more weight percentage on that side of the car than the passenger side. I could be wrong but the coolant expansion tank, car’s computer, the whole steering wheel/column LH drive and stock catback is moreso on the driver side and I like the feel when cornering to have my side a slight hair higher. Might just be cuz we drive on that side 🤣
@@evsnova74 but I am about 240lbs so that’s a slight chunk of weight if you think about it
Nice job. How stiff can you adjust these set up, specialy the rear? I'm trying to get rid of the squad. Thanks. Keep up the good work 👍
Well thanks. The dampening adjustment on the shocks can get ridiculously stiff but I'm not sure how it affects the squat. The spring is what it is, I didn't get upgraded springs from swift. When the weather breaks and I get this thing off jack stands I'll try to get a video of a launch
That would be awesome! Thanks for the quick response and I'll be looking forward on watching the video when it comes out
@@willsperformancetech2933 right on. I've got the headers on, front sway bar and cradle have been replaced. But I haven't touched anything in the rear yet so I'm still hoping I can even get this done before the weather breaks.
Thx for the measurements
This weekend, 2/19 I’m putting the bc br series on my 04 gto. I’ve been watching your whole series on this daily for a couple weeks now. I really liked the final ride height on the front so I’m going to start with your 65mm measurement and see if it’s the same on my car. The rear I want a little higher than you ended with. Goal is 275 tires at some point.
Did you ever measure the rear adjuster thing on top of the spring? How far from the seat of it to the bottom spanner bolt?
Thank you for these videos again. I know you said next your doing the rear cradle and I hope it’s soon. That’s my next move as well. I already have an entire extra one in the back of my Astro van. I put a short up showing the play in the pinion and ring gear.
I can easily measure the spring in the rear next time I'm in the shop. And I will be doing the rear bushings soon but I don't know when the video will go up. I still need to get the pinion seal too
@@evsnova74 I appreciate you
@@goat_life254 I started on my rear suspension yesterday, got everything removed from the control arms, dropped the differential mount and popped one of the sub frame bushings out. Right now I have easy access to the control arm bolts so apart from pressing the bushings out somehow it's all downhill from here. I'll go ahead and drop these videos first but I don't know when I'll get back over there to finish up. Maybe I'll get a day off this week and make it over there but if not I don't see how I wouldn't have this wrapped up by next saturday.
Oh and I measured that spring perch and I think it was 1 5/16" between the upper adjuster and the top of the perch itself but I didn't write it down nor take a pic because my phone was having a new screen installed at the time. I may try to go over there today after church and get something done on it and will confirm.
@@evsnova74 I got all of it installed yesterday. I went with your measurements of 65mm in the front and it’s low. Real low. I remembered you have factory wheels which are 17” and mine are 18”. My fenders have been rolled so maybe it’ll be alright. I took it around the block and there doesn’t seem to be much travel.
I had to cut off one of my ball joints with a sawzall.
The rears I adjusted about a centimeter from it’s highest point. And they are slightly uneven. So today I’m going to lower the rear some and probably lift the front 5mm.
I showed one of my friends that rear end and he thinks it’s fine. All that noise is in the rotors cuz they are loose. But the pinion has almost no slop it turns axles immediately. So I’ll start buying the bushings and the alignment tool.
Once my suspension is settled I’ll put my driveline in to make sure it works. It’s a Hinson and slot of people don’t like them. But my new diff is an 05-06 so it’s got a different bolt pattern. My stock one won’t work so I need to be sure this one is good or order a new one.
My car has the 3.46 gears and my new ones are 3.90. Can’t wait to see what that does for me.
But I’ve lost my drag bags. I’ll be able to tell you if it’s better or worse. I was okay with the factory height in the rear so if it’s too bad I’ll put my original setup back and just keep the bc shock.
Thank you bro. I’ll be watching these next ones daily and in two months that other cradle will be going in.
@@goat_life254 I had to get factory 18s to run these Brembos but the beauty of measuring from the fender lip to the center of the hub is that it takes the wheel out of the equation. Apparently there is a lot of variance from car to car with these, you'll just have to play with it and get it where you want it. At least that measurement is in the ballpark, if you watch the Josh's car corner video he jacks it way up for the initial adjustment and it's like 3 or 4 inches between the top of the tire and the fender lol
Dude I figured out why I had so much space between the retainer plate and the coil over assembly. My OEM style mounts i bought were crap. Bought a new one for the driver from GTOG8TA and had it shipped to replace and now there’s no gap.
Downside, is now my driver side camber is a lot more negative. The passenger side even when lowered, didn’t affect the camber much at all and I’m assuming due to the faulty mounts.
Anyhow my question is now that I freakin loctited the clevis bolts and the caliper bracket bolt, and I know I have to adjust the camber do I need to remove all those in order to add some positive camber back? Or can I just mess with the camber bolt without removing those 3 🙃. Should’ve switched around my clevis bolts like you did from the start
You're adjusting your own camber? How are you measuring it? I'd be letting an alignment shop do that. And no the caliper bolt doesn't need to come out, you just loosen the clevis bolts, I probably wouldn't worry about loctiting either, I doubt alignment shops do but I may be wrong. Worst case just remove the nut and loctite again, though the bolt will still have some loctite on it. Maybe get one of those plumber's wire brushes for copper, idk the bolt is big enough though
@@evsnova74 nah I’m definitely gonna have an alignment shop do my alignment for sure. I need to put tires on up front. My only concern was now that the whole coilover assembly sits in there right with the mount proper.. there is a lot of negative camber on the driver side. Pass side is still fine because I haven’t swapped the pass side mount out yet (pass side still has a lot of gap between retainer plate and frame of car) so the camber on pass side is fine til I get a new mount for that one. Driver side is all set up all ready to rock but driver side camber is super neg. Should I mess with it? Or at least screw in for a little more positive? And if I do, do I need to remove the clevis bolts or loosen them to mess with the camber? I’m not actually setting any of the camber/caster/toe settings myself. Just wanted to get the driver side as close to normal as possible before going to align.
@@permabulk1454 one trip to the alignment shop isn't going to cause any noticable tire wear on the inner edge on that side, but it wouldn't be hard to just loosen the clevis bolts slightly and tighten the camber bolt at the top of the knuckle a little either.
@@evsnova74 yea that’s exactly what I’m sort of asking. Do I loosen the clevis bolts to adjust the camber bolt? And is it screw in for positive camber screw out for negative? Or vice Versa
@@permabulk1454 yep just loosen them a little. Pretty sure when you screw in the camber bolt it forces the top of the knuckle outward, making it more positive.
What setting would you say get the car to stock height?
I just had to check the description, it's been too long lol. From the center of the hub to the fender, 350mm front, 370mm rear
Do the brakes rub?
Do they rub the wheel? Nope, barely clears
What’s up man, I’m probably bugging the shit out of you at this point 🤣
I think we’ve even talked on the forums before (ls1gto) anyway I installed my front coils and am needing some serious guidance on the top retainer nut and it’s gap between the retainer plate and the strut tower. Do you have an Instagram we can talk over so I can send you what my concern is and you can maybe let me know if it’s wrong or right/and or what you did with your BCs!? I’d appreciate it dude. The BC BRs you have are basically the better version of my meganEZs and I can’t get the knobs in nor do I feel comfortable with where my retainer plates are sitting. It’s harder to communicate via RUclips comments sadly
I could probably set one up but I just recently got back on RUclips. Raymond Barnsley is definitely my real name and not a fake one if you wanna dm me on there.
@@evsnova74 hahaha kk
@@permabulk1454 or of course ls1gto "conversations" or whatever they started calling dms there
@@evsnova74 okay yea cool. Man it totally blew my mind, everyone has recommended Andy from Kollar racing for like a decade now. I’ve messaged him twice ever and both times were super unpleasant. This last time I messaged basically seeing what I could get with a thousand(which could’ve gotten me all Pedders springs shocks etc for 860 and a discount or the full Megan set for 705 shipped) he basically just told me to screw off that he doesn’t deal with cheap crap and that he has absolutely nothing in my price range (which is false) so idk what that was about. But kinda made me feel weird even going back on there. Almost like people get off on talking down to you lol. I’ll shoot you a dm
@@permabulk1454 yeah I ordered all my coilovers and front bushings from him and told him to ship it to my shop, which was different from the PayPal address and he got all pissed and said to cancel the order and re order with "the CORRECT address". I was like shit man I didn't know I had to make sure the PayPal address was correct jeez never mind just ship it to my house lol