Rusty's Engine Rebuild Take TWO? TEARING IT BACK DOWN!!! VW BUS Restoration! Restoring Rusty! ctmoog
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Some times things don't go as planned. Today was one of those days. Rusty's engine needs to be torn down again! Why??? Check it out! ctmoog
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ＬＩＫＥ | ＣＯＭＭＥＮＴ | ＳＨＡＲＥ | ＳＵＢＳＣＲＩＢＥ | Press the bell Icon - THANK YOU!!! CT =)
Hey CT awesome you caught it before the rebuild went too far👏 maybe you could use this in a positive way and look at a hoover mod to increase the life of the engine see ruclips.net/video/ubwhsLNM1wU/видео.html keep up the great effort mate.👍
A well known saying that every mechanic knows: You do it right if you do it twice 😁. Every experienced mechanic will make mistakes sometime, but it is no shame to make mistakes, it´s a shame not to correct them. So you are doing exactly the right thing. And sometimes it is very useful to educate yourself with some "how to" videos. And maybe some people in the future are using your videos for education.
I can see where that came from! =) It makes good sense. Yes, the bugme videos are awesome. Thanks man!
Hi CT, humanity’s has only progressed through making mistakes. I think you did exactly the right thing to tear it down again. The positive that you will now rebuild your engine...yay. Well done for diagnosing and rectifying.
excellent video CT , I'm glad you found the issues & now YOU get to build Rusty's engine 👍
Thanks brother! I'm glad too! This just feels right.
If it is any consolation, you certainly are not the only one that had to re-disassemble something for forgetting something. It is all part of the learning experience. And remember, it is always best to take whatever needed time to do it correct the first time, then to redo it after it cranks and breaks and have to redo it again with more cost.Thumbs Up!
Thanks Gary! I appreciate that my friend! I should be a pro by the time I'm Done with this one! =)
That's the way you learn.
Good job sir.
Thank you.
Thanks Tim!
When you are using your screwdriver as a pry, try a small piece of wood behind it to help you with more leverage. You have done the right thing going back into this. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tip David! I appropriate that. Thanks for the support. It just felt like the right thing to do. Thank you! Stay tuned!
That's ok ct, i have done that many times, we all have and it won't be the last time, you are doing fine and learning as you go, having a pad on the bench to write notes to yourself as a check list as you work to remind you of certain things as you reassemble or disassemble helps me. there have been Guys who rebuilt their engine and destroyed it in a few minutes of running because they forgot the oil, be thankful you learned a valuable lesson without hurting anything. keep cool,you are doing great.
Totally tuned here! Very glad to witness this big surgery.
Awesome! Thank you!
Wow, I am amazed that after nearly 58 Years the engine parts were in such a good condition once you cleaned them. Also another good job, you have done well. Like you say, it's learning by doing and you learn fast. Greetings ;)
Yes, it's pretty amazing! =) Thank you! Stay tuned!
That is precisely right! What you said in your video, you'll never learn unless you try. Mistakes can be frustrating, but exist to remind you not to make the same mistake twice. Discovering that stuck pressure relief and the possibility of crud still in the nooks and crannies of the engine is a blessing in disguise. It's better to discover those problems now while the engine accessible than to discover them while the engine is mounted in the van. Good job! Keep up the good work! 😁
Hey DJ! Thanks for the kind words my friend. I had a feeling that something wasn't right. I'm glad I trusted my instincts. Thank you! Stay tuned!
Working on cars is always interesting, mistakes,mishaps,broken tools, bleeding knuckles and more money spent than wanted. These are the reasons that it's so fun. Keep going. Never give up. 👍🏻
This is all true! =) I won't stop now. Keep moving forward! Thank you! Stay tuned!
First off, I'm proud of you for jumping back in there to correct a mistake! A job worth doing is worth doing right! I've probably rebuilt 50 engine's in my day but only one VDub, and I started out at 15 yo. My suggestion would be to clean the outsides of the cylinders and spray them black. They are already starting to rust. Good Luck, CT. ...Newk from Kentucky
Thanks man! I appreciate that! WOW! 50 that is a ton!
I have been following you the whole time. You are doing a great job.
Hey Donald! Thank you! I really appreciate the support! Stay tuned!
It's gonna pay big dividends in multiple ways for sure. Getting the PRV unstuck and making sure it's clean inside. This engine can be detailed much more now inside and out! You'll get a lot of great service out of it and when an engine is detailed it just looks so nice. The end result will be so much more rewarding. Looking very forward to seeing it go back together and hearing it run again my friend. ✌
Thanks Mike!
CT, you are spot on about cleaning the passages- good call to back up a step and follow through on your inclinations! I can relate to an approach that takes forever but is right for the guy doing the work. There's a tool for that relief plunger and some plugs with allen heads instead of that awful flat blade arrangement on the stock plugs. Good stuff man! (email sent)
Yes man! I have to take my time and go through this so I can learn. I might have to upgrade to the new style plug! Awesome! We will meet up soon!
@@CTmoog you’ve got to; you’re both Florida men...🤣
Hi CT, now you do it properly! And you do it yourself now. Respect! Keep it up and get a nice video report from! greetings from the Netherlands 😉👍🏻
Hey Ronald! Thanks my friend! I appreciate the support and respect! Thank you! Stay tuned!
Great teardown! A confidence builder! Just a friend Ron
To lever over off parts made of, or fastened to, aluminium make some aluminium chisel shaped wedges from strips of aluminium. Far less chance of damaging a surface intended to be a seal. Brass or copper rods make the better drifts for tapping items reluctant to move too. Sometimes a piece of wood with a tapered end can be gently tapped into the centre of some thing and the pulled to withdraw it. Something like the piston part of the pressure valve you needed out. Hope it helps in the future. Been there, done that, often learned the hard way
Very cool video CT, I totally agree on your choice of dissembling the engine just to be 100% sure that everything is nice and clean on the inside.
Hey Sorush! Thanks for the support! Yes, that is the plan. Get everything nice and clean. Thank you! Stay tuned!
I get almost as much out of these comment sections as I do the videos. Keep up the great work. You're getting close to 100K subscribers!
Thanks Thomas! I appreciate that my friend! =)
Good decision CT. We’ve all made boo-boos like that and in any event it is MUCH better to spend a bit of time now to get things fully sorted out than to finish your project and have the engine blow up somewhere down the road.
One thing: when you are removing the wrist pin retainer rings - PLEASE pack a rag into the openings in the engine block so that the ring doesn’t drop down in there. If that were to happen,you would have to fish it out and that would be a heck of a lot of work if you couldn’t see it without splitting the block.
Also, don’t let the connecting rods flop around when removing the pistons. If they nick the edge of the cylinder port in the block, you could have a leak.
Your happy and positive attitude is really good - keep it up!
been there done that
Hey Peter! Thanks for all the advice! I will! Thank you! Stay tuned!
I commend you for deciding to tear the engine down and check things out. It may have been mentioned in a previous comment but don't forget to re-expand the pushrod tube before you reinstall the heads.
Learning curve we all have to go through it. Great video!
Yes, it just takes time and practice. I'm having fun with it but I do need to move forward soon. Thanks my friend!
Oh don’t worry about moving forward quickly that will come too! I worked at a VW dealership and got to rebuild many many aircooled engines and trannys over a 30 year period. I enjoy watching all the you tubers doing vw’s
@@vdub9943 Very cool. Do you still work on them?
Fantastic job, can't wait till the next video, keep up the good work....
I really appreciate that! Thank you! New video in 2 days. Thank you! Stay tuned!
FYI, you can drill and tap the oil relief plunger and thread a bolt into it and pull it out.
Since you sand blasted the engine, it wouldn’t hurt to reclean the case. Worse thing to do is let a fresh build sit for a long time. Line it up real well and then run it for a break in, change the oil and then let it sit.
That is good to know man! I will look into that. It is stuck in there real good! Yes, I want to get this engine built and get it running soon. Thanks brother!
That's all right we all have setbacks at least you caught your mistake and now you can correct it awesome man Rock on
Thanks Jose! Yes, it's just part of the process. I'm having fun and will keep pushing forward. Thanks for the support my friend! Stay tuned!
I always find it easier to remove the studs before the barrels and pistons.
Before you reassemble the engine use the handle of a screwdriver to expand the pushrod tubes I find it helps stop them leaking as they have been squashed when you tighten the heads down.
The pressure relief valve can be removed by using a piece of all thread (7/16). Cut a two slots in the end to allow you to drive it into the valve. Rotate the the all thread clockwise while pulling on the valve (you may have to push it in and out a few times).
Good luck with the build.
Oil pump removal is easier if you remove two studs. This way you can part the case without the need to remove the oil pump first.
Hey Philip! Thanks for the advice man! I appreciate that!
CT. I'm sorry bud there is NO EXCUSE for not cleaning the inside of that engine. YOU'RE FIRED! lol. Always great to see you. God bless
Hey Jimmy! I know....=) Thanks man! I appreciate the support! Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
Be glad you took it apart. You hadn't installed the air deflectors on the bottom of the cylinders. Very important piece for even cooling for cylinders.
Good catch. I will make sure to put them on this time. Thank you! Stay tuned!
Alternative to buying the lifter removal clips, I just use some small, strong magnets that I picked up off a clearance shelf at a hobby supply store ($.0.99) and duct taped a couple of them to two pipe cleaners to each one (cross the pipe cleaners in an X and tape the magnets in the center). Drop the magnets down into the lifter bore until it connects to the lifter and spread the pipe clear out around the outer case. I have never dropped a lifter. Yeah, I am cheap; plus I forgot to order them and didn’t want to hold up the job waiting for the mailman.
Hey Brian! Thats a great trick man. I will try to remember that one! Thank you! Stay tuned!
Hi CT, I agree if you have the time and want to do the hands on take it apart so you can feel good about the inside out and gain the knowledge. So next you will get in there to remove the pressure valve? Also check for any other items you didn't remove so all passages are clean. Good plan
Mistakes are very frustrating!! But honestly that’s the only way I ever end up learning unfortunately! Be careful using a screwdriver to remove your oil pump. They sell cheap puller for that.
I hear you brother! That's good to know. I will have to order one. Thanks man!
CT They’re honestly very cheap my friend. Before trying to pull the oil pump, loosen the bolt and nut above it, and below it. And it will help the oil pump come out much easier. Ask me how I know 🙄😂
@@SladesVWBeetle Good tip man!
Hello CT enjoyed your restoration project,
my two cents do not forget to install the 6 large missing "O" rings in the case halfs
Hey Jac, I guess you don't have to use them on the 40hp 1200cc. That is what I've been told.
If case has indent around base of the 6 studs for case then yes "o" rings will prevent oil from leaking past the studs
Also I noticed on tear down, that shields are missing, they help move air under the cylinders
Always good to pull apart and double check if your not sure, good practice and it is fun..You garage is so clean a practice i should should adopt.. . I do have my limits to what level of clutter i will work in, & will just stop and spend the weekend cleaning.. Bug Me series good info i got them back when they were VHS tapes and had a chance to meet them at vw car show.
Yes, I just feels right and I will learn more too. Yes, I like to have a clean space but it get s messy real fast. We just need more space. One space for all our junk and then a space just for building stuff. =)
Saludos cordiales hermano. Vaya trabajo ese de desmontaje muy chulo el proceso. Te comento que este 7/12/19 me tocó hacerle la talacha a la combi. Le cambié le cambié las rótulas, vaya trabajo que costó. Ya quedó y después sigue la bomba de los frenos. saludos cordiales hermano desde tierra Azteca
Professionals work, CT comments. As usual. Don't forget CT told us he doesn't know anything about cars and about ... working. Stay tunned !
Another great video brother. This just shows how much you are paying attention to every little detail. I'm going to check out some of the Bug Me videos. Looks like they are a great resource for do-it-yourselfers. Keep up the good work and you're starting to make this stuff look easy. 😁
Every day a school day ct !! Good job on restripping and finding your mistake !! Good luck and look forward to the next engine build video
this time around I'd install the cylinder reflector plates in before the heads go on.
Hey John! Good idea! I will do that! Thank you! Stay Tuned for more!
Didn't know you could spray brake Kleen on surfaces and gear teeth normally emersed in oil bath with roughing up and corroding those machined surfaces.
They also say "make it nice or make it twice.". Heh, I prefer the first one.. =) If you ask my opinion, it's better to take a bit more time, demolish the engine till the last screw, clean it, check it, replace every seal (especially on older machines), measure it, assemble it, set it, done. For the next 30 years or more you don't have to think about it. Nice work though. =) Keep on.
Keep rowing. It's a big project.
Yes it is! I will. Thanks for the support my friend! Thank you! Stay tuned!
It would be a good idea to invest in a brass hammer. It can be used to get the more stubborn parts seperated.
Thanks Donald! That is a great idea! =)
I was wondering since the engine magician Dennis had assembled the first part did he not notice that the pressure valve had not been overhauled?
Hi Ct !! I mentioned to you for a for Monts ago Think Think Think if you did so then think 3 more times before you start to demounting things and put them together again. Now hopefully you learnt from your mistakes. this is not meant to be mean
bud a reminder for your work. However, I do really. respect your determination to do all over again.Greetings from HCS.
The universe has spoken! “So let it be written, so let it be done!” 😂👍
HAHA! Yes! I have spoken! =)
I'm very sad and sorry that such a thing happened but on the positive side you're gonna be a double graduate at engine building and rebuilding
That will be a great bonus for future projects
As your confidence levels will be turbo charged after rebuilding this engine
Try using a tap on the inside of the relief to give you a thread to lock a bolt into it. Take a nut place it on the bolt and the thread the bolt into the relief. Turn the nut down into the case and it should act like a puller. If it still tight apply some heat the the outside and try again.
As for the relief plug replace or use a small ball Moran hammer and tap down the raised area back into the slot. File the slot to finish it.
Probably a good thing that your starting over on your rebuild because you forgot the cooling tin that go on the side of the cylinders
Good catch Mike. Thanks you! Stay tuned for more sir! =)
This does not require any further comment.
👌👍👍 Keep it up.
Awesome! Thanks my friend! Stay tuned!
Those wrist pins are full floating and should just be slip fit l, no hammering required. Clean them up worth some brake clean and a fine scrouring pad do the same for the piston and rod boss's. Lube with white lithium grease or assembly lube when installing.
Mistakes are part of learning .We have all been there. It's how you handle the mistake that matters.
The tool is expensive, used a wooden dowel with electrical tape on the end for mine... dowel was 12.7mm (1/2 inch?) bevelled the end slightly then tape about 0.5 cm from tip allowed the dowel to jam in and pull the piston out.. worked a charm - Sorry in Aus we're metric :)
Good tip Rob! Thank you! Stay tuned!
I notice a distinct lack of the deflector plate under the cylinders..and both on them sitting on the bench..best you fit them or you will be tearing it down again when it seizes...deflector plates are crucial for air flow around cylinders..
Good catch. Did you see the engine build part one? Check-it out. Thank you! Stay tuned for part two! =)
Was waiting to see you pulling out the valve, :{ , thanks for another great video.
I'm going to pull it out in the next video. Stay tuned.
Best way to learn is by making mistakes!
Three-Bond 1104 on any metal to metal zero clearance surface, which doesn't use a gasket, that needs sealing. silicon is a no-go these days and will plug oil passages as it always tends to squeeze out and then gets soft and falls into oil.
Also it looks like you didn't clean the cylinders good after you honed them, oil looks all black... that's metal dust and hone grit lol.
Might want to give those pistons and cylinders a good cleaning. Hot water and dish soap works. Just dry everything right away, coat cylinder walls in a light coat of oil and bag them till ready, make sure rings and pistons are good and dry, they can be oiled when ready for assembly.
Hey Dan, I will look into the 1104. Good to know. Yes, everything is going to get a good cleaning. I think you are correct. I will get it this time. Clean, clean, clean! =)
I remember my first bug engine rebuild....had a socket set, wrench, hammer, crescent wrench, two screwdrivers and vice grips....no references/books/videos.(you wasnt a real man unless you just got er done gung ho all on your own)....at 15 the only knowledge I had was rebuilding a five horse Tecumseh go cart engine....wasnt too much difference, just an extra three cylinders...But one thing, I don't recall messing with the oil relief valve....I guess that's why the engine only lasted two years on that first build.
Rusty Wrench Projects That’s a word I haven’t heard in a while...Tecumseh!! My mini bike had that engine....well many years ago
@@SladesVWBeetle ... that's was my favorite car to this day....an old school go kart..no roll bars..no live Axle...no gears..... that little sucker would hit 45 mph after I disabled the governor
Rusty Wrench Projects Oh yeah you can get those to roll along! The governor being removed had to improve a smile on your face!!😃
If you have doubts about the cleanliness, by all means rebuild it. I listen to the universe now that I am older. Don't beat yourself up. It's better that you take care of it now. Excrement Occurs! Best wishes! Take your time
Hey Ivor! This is so true! I try and listen as much as possible. Sometimes things get int the way. I will! Thank you! Stay tuned!
I would NOT blast those cases. The only media I would ever use for blasting aluminum is baking soda. It is gentle enough not to damage the base metal, but just abrasive enough to remove dirt and corrosion. And it dissolves in water. Also, I noticed when you were removing the rocker assemblies that I did not see any assembly lube on any of the components. Oil will drain off the parts, especially when sitting for long periods. Assembly lube stays in place so you know you have adequate lube on those critical parts upon first start. Not trying to tell you what to do (it’s your engine), but I own a small engine repair shop, so I have a lot of experience with air cooled engines and have successfully rebuilt several over the years. And yes, I’ve even had my hands into some V-dubs over the years too.
Hey John! That is great advice sir! I will make sure all the parts have assembly lube. I just ordered some today. That's awesome man. Where is your shop? It would be cool to hang out sometime. Thank you! Stay tuned!
most guys will scrub an engine with soap and water after any rebuild type work. Parts have to be next to sterile before assembly. Vapor blast has a grit than can remain in small passages.
Yes, I'm going to get this one super clean. Basically starting over and doing it right this time. Thank you! Stay tuned!
CT its so worth it. My build is doing great.
Yes, it's the right thing to do. It's a learning process and I really enjoy it. That's awesome man! I'll come check out the vids!
FULL FLOW!!!!!!!!!
Thank you! Stay tuned!
I had a quick look at the head whilst you where taking it off.
Double check the collets on the valve stems have a visible gap where they meet.
If not they can be a loose fit on the valve grooves which will eventually drop the valve.
I sand them on a flat surface until they don't completely close up on the valve stem.
Stripping the engine was the right choice, if you have concerns now's the time to address them.
Regarding the oil plunger you will find that the proper tool works great.
Hey CT.
Just a quick follow up.
Search for Hagerty here on RUclips and the latest redline rebuild on their Chevy.
Have a look at the built head regarding the collet gap I mentioned.
It's an excellent channel with some very cool engine builds.
@@djambrosia Thanks man! I will check it out. That inna great channel!
school of hard knocks !
Hey Timothy! I've been going to that school all my life! =)
Happy holidays sir... better safe than sorry :)
Happy Holidays my friend! This is true!
Just wondering, where are the heat plates tns for cooling the heads and cylinders?
Yes! The air deflectors under the cylinders are ESSENTIAL for cooling. The motor will overheat if those aren’t installed.
well done mate
Hey Robert! I appreciate that brother! Thank you! Stay tuned!
You're absolutely right - dirt and grit MUST be cleaned out of those oil passageways in that block or you'll likely be disaappointed with the results and have accelerated wear and poor performance sooner not later. One suggestion I've seen is to drill out the old case plugs, tap the holes and install something like these in place of the old plugs:
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3932.htm,
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3931.htm,
www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3930.htm.
Once you remove the old case plugs and before the new ones go in, hook up the air compressor to the pressure relief valve opening or to the opening of one of the case plugs you removed and blow all the dirt and grit out of the passages. For me the entire process might look something like this 1) tear down the engine, ie gut the case (remove and place case dowel pins in a baggy for safe keeping) 2) carefully drill out the case plugs 3) tap the holes for the case plugs using an appropriately sized tap 4) reinstall the new threaded case plugs in the links above 5) take everything to the car wash and power wash the heck out of it ( or use a pressure washer at home) note: be careful not to loose any forgotten case dowel pins! 6) blow out the case passageways with a high pressure blast of compressed air 7) reassemble. At this point you can be pretty confident all dirt, grit and magnesium shavings have been completely gotten rid of. Use a new oil cooler if you haven't already to remove the possibility of previous dirt/metal shavings being recirculated in the oil of the new build. On my personal build I did all the above except 2), 3) and 4) but I had my case halves hot tanked and steam-cleaned rather than sandblasted. I think with sandblasting you have to be extra diligent to get everything clean. Take your time and don't put it back together until you're 100% certain it is clean, clean, clean. There is no need to rush it. Every time I get in too big of a hurry or impatient I almost always screw something up! Good luck!!!
HEy Ted! Thanks for all this information! Very cool. I'm going to do this. This is really cool! I want it to be right.
Now you need to line bore the crankcase.
Great idea! Thank you! Stay tuned!
Hope it doesn't happen, have experienced oil leaks from push rod tubes.
Hi CT, one of my viewers ask why I didn't have a Patreon account so he could make a donation? Being I had never heard of it I looked it up and signed up. Will see how this works? Anything I get would just put it into my future video projects. I would love to get a bug to work on for sure👍
Hey Tim that's awesome man! I was thinking about doing that as well. Just haven't done it yet. Get the bug brother!
Use a brass pry bar on aluminium parts.
Hey Greg! Great idea! I will try that! Thank you! Stay tuned!
Impact screwdirver may have saved the day.
Yep, Don't split the case if it runs. .
I commented on the first video of the engine build. Looks like the engine builder forgot the o-rings on the main studs. Double check it.
👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks brother! =)
blow shop air through the passages, the valve may blow out
Good idea. I will try that!
If I’m not mistaken This is the same engine I watched run in one of your videos right? And I’m sure it had oil in it correct? Or you change the oil correct. It’s my opinion that those oil galleries have been flushed out pretty well. At least you’re not dealing with the block that mud Dobber hornets have made their home in. And plugged up all the passages with Clay.
That being said what I would’ve done, and I’ve done it before.
Take out your oil pump. I was watching you use a screwdriver, you will booger your case up doing that. They make a oil pump puller for Volkswagen. anyway pull oil pump out. Because the passageway goes directly to that pressure relief valve.
Get yourself a 14 mm tap… I believe it’s 14 mm. It might be 12. I would just have to check. Take the tap and screw it into the pressure relief valve. It will only go a half a thread or so. Spray some lubricant in there or something And turn that pressure relief valve while you’re pulling. She’ll come out of there. Just keep doing it back-and-forth and back-and-forth, and it will come out. Once you get it out. Use a little emery cloth and clean the valve up. Put some oil in your case Hole Where are the pressure relief valve fits. And run that valve back and forth in there with the tap until you’re satisfied that it it moves freely. Take the whole mess out again, and then use some spray cleaner with the pressure relief hole Pointed downwards. Liquids run downhill remember. Then spray into your oil pump hole, and clean that all out. Lubricate everything back up again and put it together. Bob’s your uncle, you’re done.
I don’t think it was necessary to split the case. I can understand you’re “better safe than sorry “attitude though. It’s a good way to be.
Good job great video! Thank you for sharing
This is the engine that came out of the 1962 Bus. That is great advice! Thank you. I will be working on it tomorrow. Hopefully it comes out.
@@CTmoog 👍👍👍
Is that a harbor freight engine stand? If so does the 3 wheeled version work well for you?
Yes, It works great and it's like $35 with the coupon. Thank you!
No gaskets?
Build specs on welding/build tables ? Very nice.
Hey Chris! My buddy Tim built these. I will try and get the specs from him! Basically they are very heavy duty! Thank you! Stay tuned!
With your permission, I would like to copy dimensions. I think table would be perfect in my work space.
Hi CT, I'm going to put together a VW car show picture collection with music in the background. I think I can do it with the editing I have. Wish me luck😁
What is the video tutorial that you’re following step by step for the rebuild?
Hi CT how did you clean all the engine parts?
While tearing the motor apart at this point might be disappointing, it's better than finishing the build and having the motor seize ( or worse ) once Rusty is ready to roll.
Yes, this is true. Something was telling me to start over and do it right. Thanks for the support. Thank you! Stay tuned!
View# 12,188 at 6:30 PM on 12/12/19 - NJ...….Now we have CT Me video.
Thanks John! =)
At least run rubber tubes down the studs to protect the piston when removing wrist pin.
I see how you make the Unión of the pieces in from Cancún México here the mecanics use black silocone to make gaskets and dont have oil filtrations check this in my opinión olso in not a mecanic
Or you could try a expandable concrete anchor.
Am I wrong about the case having a gasket between the two halves.
If you put a proper oil filter on it all the grit would be removed before it got to the bearings, rings, etc. That screen is just not adequate. (but you want to keep it original and I respect that)
Complimenti sei diventato ottimo professionista 👍👍👍
Thank you sir! =)
I want to see the removal of the stuck valve and cleaning if the engine with vapor
did vw or porsche ever make a proper high performance engine case? some of u guys may know... I'm talking about stronger internals such as...five crank bearings, proper bearing caps for each, not using the casing halves and mile long studs for keeping the crank in place, and other mods to make the engine stronger for higher hp.
Where did you get the engine stand yoke?
Ждём продолжения!!! 👍👍👍🤝🤝🤝✊✊✊
Thank you! Stay tuned!
Maestro geñio 🤓👍👍👍
You forgot the probely most important issue of the engine, this is the oil leakage failure ingenuity of vw and nobody can figure it out, single or dual
I'm sure someone has mentioned this before but this is like My Summer Car, but with less beer and sewage tank cleaning.
store.steampowered.com/app/516750/My_Summer_Car/