So.....at the beginning of the video you showed us this nice, brand new workshop manual that you paid 100 bucks for. Perhaps consult that book and it may give you an idea how the factory intended the steering wheel to come off? Just a suggestion. Good luck!
Some people are just spoiled by RUclips uploaders who spend a lot of time editing days worth of footage into 30 minutes and making it look like they got their projects done fast.
@@bmh67wa I am sure people really want to see some progress in a project you know...at least I am that way, I don't want to watch 25 mins in a vid showing someone unscrewing or unbolting parts, I ve seen in other projects people CUTTING these boring scenes, if you know what I am trying to explain. Anyway that's my opinion ppl can hate me I don't really care. Peace out!
🎵Steering my pain with her rust, singing my life with her crust Killing me softly with her rust, killing me softly with her rust Rusting my whole life with her crust, killing me softly with her rust🎶
I faced the same dilemma with the spring plate bushes. I put the originals back in as modern rubber parts seem designed to fail. I reckon new ones will need replacing every few years. Replacement swing axle boots are also crap splitting every couple of years. In the end I used urethane boots instead and they have held up well. You can use urethane spring plate bushes but they usually end up squeaking.
You have a good brand of mig welder. Even the right amperage for what you will be doing. Now you will need the thin mig wire. We use metric in New Zealand where i am. The thin wire is .6mm and that's what you will need for doing panel work. Find a small piece of rag . Fold it up to the size of a postage stamp . Get a spring loaded clothes pin out of the laundry and clip the folded rag over the mig wire between the roll and the feeder. This will wipe the wire as it gets fed into the feeder and liner. This was taught to me by a body shop guy. It make the liner last longer in a dirty shop environment. Check the (big) roller matches the diameter of the wire you are using. One side will be .6mm and the other Side (groove) will be .8mm or .9mm. Make sure that you have some spare cooper torch tips that match your wire or the next diameter up which may be better for you as you are learning. Having the next size up may stop you welding the wire to the tip as you get the basics. Buy a small sheet of from your local steel shop. They usually have them cut already for patch panels for body shops. They are a quarter of a full 8 x 4 sheet. You can cut ti up with tinsnips for practicing on. The smaller gap the better the weld. As a rouge guide to get started a heat setting or 3 or 4 (Bottom knob) and wire feed (top knob) of 4 or 5. now i see you have a nice 3m speed glass helmet, get new batteries for it. They go in the top edge of the lens unit. Remember to push the shade button on the helmet to turn it on. It will stay on for an hour without shutting off which resets after each exposure to the arc. so you only need to turn it on once during the day. Your friend should be able to tell you the rest.
Hello! Thanks for all the great tips! That is much appreciated! New Zealand! That's pretty cool! Yes, I can't wait to use it. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Dude...In my area Auto Zone will lend you the proper puller! 1) Put a small piece of steal on threaded piece so you don't mushroom the shaft! 2) When other rig is under pressure, give it a good wack with a hammer! I appreciate your persistence but thus is terrablely painful to watch. Hell just watch some RUclips tutorials...ya think?!! ...Newk from Kentucky
I can totally relate to these bus projects.. Its one thing after another, specialty tools, patience, time and money. I'd try heating the steering wheel metal with a heat gun or small torch. Its fused with oxidation. Fill it with PB too...I got lucky with mine, the steering wheel slipped right off.
I have seen other videos on the matter...and you are on the right track....it seems that everybody has the same problem with those steering wheels...even with the metal plate, it's going to bend....but keep it going and it will eventually give away.
I live in North Texas. We know heat and humidity. First step to dealing with it is a large volume fan. helps lower the humidity effect. Next is a pair of shorts so air can better circulate around the body. Next is a very large container of tea, water, or sport liquid. Drink often and enjoy. Our humidity is not as high as yours but very often we have a heat index over 100. Good luck with Rusty.
Most of the illustrations in your owner manual are retouched photos by hand. My mentor when I started in Graphic design was a master in air brush photo retouching. He was amazing, simply amazing. Along his career as drafting manager for a large plumbing company, Crane, he did as a sideline job, all of their publications illustrations. (He told me one day that he was making more money doing that than his regular salary!!) Exactly like your manual. Replaced nowadays of course by Photoshop illutrators. He'd amazed !
2 pieces of plywood with the slots in different directions will do the trick and put one of the legs of your puller directly opposite of the slot so as not to be pulling against the weakest point, which is either side of the slot. Also, when the tension is on the puller, a good smack with a hammer directly on the top will help it to break loose. Keep it up, you'll get it. Please note the suggestion by Jimschrbr below. The owner's manual should give instructions on removing the wheel.
To get the steering wheel off with out breaking your teeth. (I've seen that done by another apprentice) loosen the nut. DON"T Take it off yet. Sit in the seat. grab the wheel . KEEP YOUR ARMS STRAIGHT. Use your shoulders one at a time to pull on the wheel. pull with the left, push with the right and vice vesa. after 3 or 4 pulls/pushes it will pop free. Yes they are tight. LOL Ive been doing this since 1984. For someone who isn't a trained mechanic you are doing ok. Its a big learning curve and i'm still learning.
I use a bearing clamp on the bottom then it has bolt holes for the puller I put on the top. Some of them are super tight and it is pretty scarry when they break loose. That is why some of the bottoms of the steering wheels have chips. Which can easily be fixed.
@@CTmoog alright Put it on camera and get that thing off. ha ha. Man I wish I would have helped you weld something after seeing you have never done it.
When trying to use any kind of puller on something with a threaded shaft screw the nut back on so it's flush with the end of the shaft. This keeps from messing up the shaft/threads. And when you install a puller, make sure the arms are equally spaced out. Then install the puller so it's got some pressure on it. Then hit the end of the screw shaft of the puller with a hammer. The shock of the hit usually pops the wheel loose.
Maybe you should have used the other board you cut in the opposite direction, glue them together and try that. In addition, try drilling the key out to decrease drag on the wheel bushing.
I pick up the same book for my 67 bus from wolfsburgwest for me it was worth the $100.00 . I had to make a puller with steel finally got mine to break free but cracked the plastic around the base. I think if I deisgned a better puller I would cuase less damage to the wheel base. Your design is really what I did but used a steel plate verses wood. If it would help you I can video the area of fitting surfaces. It crazy it just a tapper but it was machine well it really locks into the tapper bore of the steering wheel.
I'm guessing the steering shaft is just seized to the receiver piece molded into the wheel from years of humidity. It would have been machined to a machine tolerance to keep the wheel from feeling loose. If you are going to use a wheel puller get the nut back on to prevent damaging the shaft. I would look below to see if you can gently tap the keyway out from below. Once that is free you, might be able to turn the wheel lock to lock repeatedly to break that seize. I'd be afraid to try heat because of the wheel. If that didn't work I would get the board back in there and use a light impact hammer below the board. The mechanic below has the right suggestion about pulling on one side then the other. It's just stubborn, like getting an aluminum wheel off a steel axle. If you can use the right impact forces in the right spot gently, it should free up easily. Enjoy the series & Good luck.
You'll get it! You have a nice neighbor there somewhere! They were thinking of you. That Hagerty magazine is for Hagerty insurance subscribers, so someone has an older vehicle insured with them. If you see someone with a vintage/antique vehicle, it's probably them lol
Hi CT! The other solution is as following.put the nut back on the shaft and screws it down to it's even with the top of the shaft. then put an old bolt in the top of the shaft to stop the puller is damaging it then remove the nut and lift off the wheel. Buy a puller who is gripping under the wheel Good luck take greeting HCS Try it.
Make another board, re-enforce the board with something thicker like angle iron, put pressure on the wheel and tap the bottom of the board under the wheel with a hammer. Not too hard, and soak it a day of two before next attempt. hope it works.
that washer holding in the steering wheel, has a notch in it. Perhaps by using a punch, set in the groove , you can tap it, and see if the washer turns on the threads, and back of, by turning. RC
Hey, what a fun show to watch, had a few vw's myself. Id be very interested in what you've spent on tools and parts, a running total to see what the end result is. Cant wait to see the finished project ! Keep those videos coming !
Does not have a threaded hole? If you have a hole, you can make an extractor plate. If you do not have a hole, you can make a thick iron plate to screw, leave it with pressure and give it some hits and put Wd40 or something similar. Greetings from Uruguay
Bad luck CT, but not every job will be smooth sailinh, unfortunately. Ss we say down undet, Bugger! Oh, and I'll swap you our 3° C, for your heat!! Keep em coming CT. Cheers Tony from down under.
Oh, hot, yes. I agree on that.. =) Ok, Mr. CT, you got a terrible idea and so it was the result. =) No, I mean for the extractors you never use wood, there are quite consistent forces in play, but you can try to fabricate a small tool homemade. Get a piece of square bar, at least 30x30 mm, than cut 4 pieces (or more , depends on spacing of the column) and than you make a rectangle with one of the bars on each side passing under the wheel hub tied in with the spacing bars across on the ends. I suggest you weld one side and leave the other open for sliding in. Then you can attach only 2 arms of the extractor on each end, shich should be more than enough. I had the same problem with my R4. Actually the wheel is meshed with splines, so there is no need to tighten the nut very much, anyway with years and a bit of corrosion it gets stuck easily. The proper way is to fabricare a deep Y attachment for the extractor, but that involves more machining and cutting and maybe even welding. =) Cheers, keep up. It would be nice if I could send you a drawing though.
Just call it Bully like we call it in Germany. The haggerty magazine shows the Volkswagen 181 (The Thing) on its cover. Originally it was designed for our army forces , the "Bundeswehr". The soldiers called it "Kübelwagen". Greetings from germany where steering wheel and steering column were assembled inseparable :-)
HAHA! Yes it's a Bully for sure! =) Thanks for the fun facts! That's cool to know. I purchased a puller. Let's see if it works. Stay tuned for more! Thank you! =)
You can download the pdf’s of all the old VW manuals on thesamba.com I have them saved in iBooks on my phone and iPad! Makes for a quick reference...and they have the feel of the old ones visual oil stains and ALL! 👍
I would say with the amount of money you have spent on the parts and buying the van, you could have bought a better condition one. Looking at the rust holes on the van, it needs a ful restoration to make her fully dry and road worthy. Its going to cost a lot more for you. I wish you all the luck with it, but have you concidered looking for a less rusty one ?.
Hey Ian! I think you are correct. At the end of the day it's always cheaper to buy one that's already working. Although you will have to pay more up front. I like taking something broken, fixing it, bringing it back to life and learning along the way. Hopefully it won't break the bank. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
in the book was a steering wheel puller imitate that . o take some old pieces of iron thin and thick agle - bud -and oveflapweld them together and try diverend settings before you start welding on the car. keep on going
pb blaster let it is then tension it then give it a hit with a hammer from below? hey in some ways its reassuring the steering wheel doesn't come off too easy :). Nice manuals too...
PB blaster. Put the nut on flush with the top of the threads . A small block of wood . Put the wood on top of the nut and hit it with a hammer. That should help loosen my steering wheel and help break the rust free. Put the puller on there and as you are pulling hit the steering wheel with a hammer and or the pulley that will help cause vibration to break things looks maybe even hit the shaft not hard just enough to cause vibration
Hi CT !! I just checked your problem there should be a Nutt there if you did not take that of before so you have to remove that now. I saw now there is a blank shining washer or metal ring you have to remove Greeting HCS Stay cool man.
Hi CT I do really hope it solves your issue with the steering wheel. Greetings HCS.looking forwards to this Weekend.be interesting to watch that video. Greetings HCS
Soak the shaft in release oil first ,use a support over the shaft to protect from ballooning out under the pressure,steel plate (not wood) would be safer ,you may need to apply heat but that would be a last resort...AWAIT FOLLOW UP VIDEO .....Good luck
Try hitting the board with a mallet from underneath while there’s pulling pressure on it. Tighten the board just enough but not too much as to break it. It might work? Lol
Yup, rap it under pressure, as previously suggested. Progress. Plan to show progress in each video. Viewers are investing their time because they're interested in learning something, and is easiest when getting a visual. Watching someone fumble around for a half hour is a waste. Just a little FYI.
Steering wheel 1 - CT 0, LOL Want me to come over to help? You'll get it. Damn right its hot. I was going to head out to wally, I didn't make it to my car and I was just dripping. I gave up and went back inside. It can wait until tonight.
Hi dude nice to see you again Great try from but I think there is a lock in the center of nute or maybe all steering coming out keep going don’t give up amazing video amazing ct
1:30 this seal is ok because it's german made .if you get whatever aftermarket it wouldn't last the half time the others lasted . New rubber has nothing to do with old one . If possible get a NOS one
hi, i'm from indonesia. sometimes I don't understand what you say. but I have seen all the videos that you uploaded and I understand what you are doing. I'm sure you can finish the project. can you take me there I am interested in learning and want to be like you if I could join you, I would be very happy for me I will always support you and always watch your videos. thank you I really want to join and meet you
CT do you think that metal plate inside might be threaded? And if so, is there a notch where you could put a screwdriver and move it counterclockwise with a hammer. Just a thought God bless
Hey Jimmy! I'm not sure. I 'm going to check the manual tomorrow. Hopefully it has directions on how to do it. I think that slot is for the key that holds it in. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Check your manual first. That's why you bought it , right ? . You need a metal plate to pull against and not a piece of wood . 5 minutes in the manual will save you 30 minutes of frustration, or worse. But again, this is how we learn.Keep moving.
The steering wheel sits so tight because it is there in place for 60 years. You could use a large bearing puller or build something similar using a steel plate. But make sure that the force is not applied to the plastic. It may also help to put it under tension and just wait some days. Sometimes the steering wheel comes of after a few days. Warming it up may also help. But be carefull not to melt the plastic.
So you have that amazing manual and you didn’t use any it as a reference to remove the steering if? And if you did I was didn’t see it because I was skipping through the video to see something interesting, which never came. This and the last video sucked in my opinion. Quality over quantity my friend. I come to see progress on the build. Showing failure is great as long as you show success in the same video. And the last video was pointless. It was you filming a RUclips video of someone making a RUclips video on your bus. Surprise, we know the bus is rusty, we’ve been watching.
WOW! Tell me how you really feel! =) I can't please everyone all the time. I appreciate your input. Hopefully you'll stick around to see the process. More coming soon!
photos.app.goo.gl/tSTEky6zyUXPY94C7 Hi CT, This was at a VW show last year. I had a VW bus like this except it didn't have the popup roof. It was a camper bus with a sink, back fold down bed and the crank side windows. The engine blew up and had it replaced. Then sold it to a neighbor. Wish I kept it now plus my 65 bug and a few other vehicals i had🙁
Do you follow these guys, Mustie1, vwnut1967 , marcijunebug? These people may be able to help you on alot of questions on where you can find parts. They might even the parts you need, been watching for while. Keep up the good work! 👍 👍
ＬＩＫＥ | ＣＯＭＭＥＮＴ | ＳＨＡＲＥ | ＳＵＢＳＣＲＩＢＥ | Press the bell Icon - THANK YOU!!! CT =)
Hi! You spend $100.00 for a book, you can pay for the right tool to remove it. Good luck!!!
@@CarlosVW-xz3lc Yes, I'll get one soon! =) Thanks Carlos!
So.....at the beginning of the video you showed us this nice, brand new workshop manual that you paid 100 bucks for. Perhaps consult that book and it may give you an idea how the factory intended the steering wheel to come off? Just a suggestion. Good luck!
HAHA! Hey Jim! Good idea! I looked after I read your comment and it's in the book! I have to get the correct puller. Stay tuned my friend!
I learned a long time ago, when removing rusted parts on old cars Dynamite does wonders. especially after a few cold ones on a hot day.
HAHA! Nice one Tom! I picked up a puller. Let's see if it works. Stay tuned for more! Thank you! =)
Another 30 mins vid with no progress….man you will finish this project in 5 years LOL
HAHA! Yes, it's slow going this time of year. It's hot! Stay tuned! I will get more done soon. Hopefully it's not 5 years! =)
Some people are just spoiled by RUclips uploaders who spend a lot of time editing days worth of footage into 30 minutes and making it look like they got their projects done fast.
@@bmh67wa I am sure people really want to see some progress in a project you know...at least I am that way, I don't want to watch 25 mins in a vid showing someone unscrewing or unbolting parts, I ve seen in other projects people CUTTING these boring scenes, if you know what I am trying to explain. Anyway that's my opinion ppl can hate me I don't really care. Peace out!
@@rioalexbrasil, no one is holding a gun to your head making you watch it.
You are triggering an unnecessary stress, move on and leave my comment & myself alone
🎵Steering my pain with her rust, singing my life with her crust
Killing me softly with her rust, killing me softly with her rust
Rusting my whole life with her crust, killing me softly with her rust🎶
Nice! I like it! =)
Good pace considering the local heat and humidity. Its not a race, nor a job...but a hobby you share. Thanks
This is so true! Thanks for reminding me. Sometimes I forget that. It really is fun and relaxing even in the heat. Stay tuned! =)
I faced the same dilemma with the spring plate bushes.
I put the originals back in as modern rubber parts seem designed to fail.
I reckon new ones will need replacing every few years.
Replacement swing axle boots are also crap splitting every couple of years.
In the end I used urethane boots instead and they have held up well.
You can use urethane spring plate bushes but they usually end up squeaking.
Good to know. Yes, they make things like they use to. They want things to break...Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
You have a good brand of mig welder. Even the right amperage for what you will be doing. Now you will need the thin mig wire. We use metric in New Zealand where i am. The thin wire is .6mm and that's what you will need for doing panel work. Find a small piece of rag . Fold it up to the size of a postage stamp . Get a spring loaded clothes pin out of the laundry and clip the folded rag over the mig wire between the roll and the feeder. This will wipe the wire as it gets fed into the feeder and liner. This was taught to me by a body shop guy. It make the liner last longer in a dirty shop environment. Check the (big) roller matches the diameter of the wire you are using. One side will be .6mm and the other Side (groove) will be .8mm or .9mm. Make sure that you have some spare cooper torch tips that match your wire or the next diameter up which may be better for you as you are learning. Having the next size up may stop you welding the wire to the tip as you get the basics. Buy a small sheet of from your local steel shop. They usually have them cut already for patch panels for body shops. They are a quarter of a full 8 x 4 sheet. You can cut ti up with tinsnips for practicing on. The smaller gap the better the weld. As a rouge guide to get started a heat setting or 3 or 4 (Bottom knob) and wire feed (top knob) of 4 or 5. now i see you have a nice 3m speed glass helmet, get new batteries for it. They go in the top edge of the lens unit. Remember to push the shade button on the helmet to turn it on. It will stay on for an hour without shutting off which resets after each exposure to the arc. so you only need to turn it on once during the day. Your friend should be able to tell you the rest.
Hello! Thanks for all the great tips! That is much appreciated! New Zealand! That's pretty cool! Yes, I can't wait to use it. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Dude...In my area Auto Zone will lend you the proper puller! 1) Put a small piece of steal on threaded piece so you don't mushroom the shaft! 2) When other rig is under pressure, give it a good wack with a hammer! I appreciate your persistence but thus is terrablely painful to watch. Hell just watch some RUclips tutorials...ya think?!! ...Newk from Kentucky
That's good advice man! I know it's painful to watch! Sorry...I picked up a puller. Let's see if it works. Stay tuned!
I can totally relate to these bus projects.. Its one thing after another, specialty tools, patience, time and money. I'd try heating the steering wheel metal with a heat gun or small torch. Its fused with oxidation. Fill it with PB too...I got lucky with mine, the steering wheel slipped right off.
You feel pain...I might try heating it up. I picked up a new puller as well. Hopefully it works,. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
I have seen other videos on the matter...and you are on the right track....it seems that everybody has the same problem with those steering wheels...even with the metal plate, it's going to bend....but keep it going and it will eventually give away.
Thanks Alberto! That's good to know. I don't feel so bad now. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
I live in North Texas. We know heat and humidity. First step to dealing with it is a large volume fan. helps lower the humidity effect. Next is a pair of shorts so air can better circulate around the body. Next is a very large container of tea, water, or sport liquid. Drink often and enjoy. Our humidity is not as high as yours but very often we have a heat index over 100.
Good luck with Rusty.
Man, I live in south texas. And boy I agree with you 1 hundred percent. It gets real hot and humid here. You got the steps spot on! Texas forever man!
Good advice! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Most of the illustrations in your owner manual are retouched photos by hand. My mentor when I started in Graphic design was a master in air brush photo retouching. He was amazing, simply amazing. Along his career as drafting manager for a large plumbing company, Crane, he did as a sideline job, all of their publications illustrations. (He told me one day that he was making more money doing that than his regular salary!!) Exactly like your manual. Replaced nowadays of course by Photoshop illutrators. He'd amazed !
It really is a lost art. It's amazing how well they made them look! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
2 pieces of plywood with the slots in different directions will do the trick and put one of the legs of your puller directly opposite of the slot so as not to be pulling against the weakest point, which is either side of the slot. Also, when the tension is on the puller, a good smack with a hammer directly on the top will help it to break loose. Keep it up, you'll get it. Please note the suggestion by Jimschrbr below. The owner's manual should give instructions on removing the wheel.
Hey George! Great advice sir! I will try again this weekend! =) Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
To get the steering wheel off with out breaking your teeth. (I've seen that done by another apprentice) loosen the nut. DON"T Take it off yet. Sit in the seat. grab the wheel . KEEP YOUR ARMS STRAIGHT. Use your shoulders one at a time to pull on the wheel. pull with the left, push with the right and vice vesa. after 3 or 4 pulls/pushes it will pop free. Yes they are tight. LOL Ive been doing this since 1984. For someone who isn't a trained mechanic you are doing ok. Its a big learning curve and i'm still learning.
That is great advice my friend! THANK YOU! I don't want to knock my teeth out! I really appreciate the kind words! Thanks man! Stay tuned for more! =)
I use a bearing clamp on the bottom then it has bolt holes for the puller I put on the top. Some of them are super tight and it is pretty scarry when they break loose. That is why some of the bottoms of the steering wheels have chips. Which can easily be fixed.
Hey Mike! I just watched your video! I just picked up that puller. I'll give a try!
@@CTmoog alright Put it on camera and get that thing off. ha ha. Man I wish I would have helped you weld something after seeing you have never done it.
When trying to use any kind of puller on something with a threaded shaft screw the nut back on so it's flush with the end of the shaft. This keeps from messing up the shaft/threads.
And when you install a puller, make sure the arms are equally spaced out. Then install the puller so it's got some pressure on it. Then hit the end of the screw shaft of the puller with a hammer. The shock of the hit usually pops the wheel loose.
Maybe you should have used the other board you cut in the opposite direction, glue them together and try that. In addition, try drilling the key out to decrease drag on the wheel bushing.
That might have worked. Not a bad idea! I purchased a puller. Let's see if it works. Stay tuned for more! Thank you! =)
I pick up the same book for my 67 bus from wolfsburgwest for me it was worth the $100.00 . I had to make a puller with steel finally got mine to break free but cracked the plastic around the base. I think if I deisgned a better puller I would cuase less damage to the wheel base. Your design is really what I did but used a steel plate verses wood. If it would help you I can video the area of fitting surfaces. It crazy it just a tapper but it was machine well it really locks into the tapper bore of the steering wheel.
Hey Dan! Yes the book is really nice! I picked up a pull this week. Let's see if it works! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
I'm guessing the steering shaft is just seized to the receiver piece molded into the wheel from years of humidity. It would have been machined to a machine tolerance to keep the wheel from feeling loose. If you are going to use a wheel puller get the nut back on to prevent damaging the shaft. I would look below to see if you can gently tap the keyway out from below. Once that is free you, might be able to turn the wheel lock to lock repeatedly to break that seize. I'd be afraid to try heat because of the wheel. If that didn't work I would get the board back in there and use a light impact hammer below the board. The mechanic below has the right suggestion about pulling on one side then the other. It's just stubborn, like getting an aluminum wheel off a steel axle. If you can use the right impact forces in the right spot gently, it should free up easily. Enjoy the series & Good luck.
Hey John! Those are all great points sir. I will give it a try this weekend. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
You'll get it!
You have a nice neighbor there somewhere! They were thinking of you. That Hagerty magazine is for Hagerty insurance subscribers, so someone has an older vehicle insured with them. If you see someone with a vintage/antique vehicle, it's probably them lol
Thanks Dan! Yes, there are some nice people here. It's pretty cool! I'll keep a look out for them. =) Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Hi CT!
The other solution is as following.put the nut back on the shaft and screws it down to it's even with the top of the shaft. then put an old bolt in the top of the shaft to stop the puller is damaging it then remove the nut and lift off the wheel. Buy a puller who is gripping under the wheel Good luck take
greeting HCS Try it.
Yes, I will do that. Good point. I have a new puller and will try again this weekend. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
I believe in you, man! you will succeed
Thanks Art!!! I appreciate that! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
@@CTmoog sure! don't give up
Make another board, re-enforce the board with something thicker like angle iron, put pressure on the wheel and tap the bottom of the board under the wheel with a hammer. Not too hard, and soak it a day of two before next attempt. hope it works.
Hey Daniel! That's good advice man! I will try that! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
that washer holding in the steering wheel, has a notch in it. Perhaps by using a punch, set in the groove , you can tap it, and see if the washer turns on the threads, and back of, by turning. RC
The strongest bond is the static charge... second strongest bond is a 62 micro bus steering wheel. Sauna... who would buy one
HAHA! =)
A good manual is the best tool in the shop.
I can see where this will be very helpful! Thanks Terry!
If you place an iron piece instead of a piece of wood it will work
Thank you for your great work👍
Good advice! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Hey, what a fun show to watch, had a few vw's myself. Id be very interested in what you've spent on tools and parts, a running total to see what the end result is. Cant wait to see the finished project ! Keep those videos coming !
It Hurts watching You Work on this
Then don’t watch
Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
@@other_brother_darryl4714 =)
Does not have a threaded hole? If you have a hole, you can make an extractor plate.
If you do not have a hole, you can make a thick iron plate to screw, leave it with pressure and give it some hits and put Wd40 or something similar. Greetings from Uruguay
Hello! Yes, I will try that! Good idea! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Bad luck CT, but not every job will be smooth sailinh, unfortunately. Ss we say down undet, Bugger! Oh, and I'll swap you our 3° C, for your heat!! Keep em coming CT. Cheers Tony from down under.
This is true! Thanks Tony!
Your learning, slow as it is. It’s fun to watch anyway lol keep it up buddy
Thanks Sam!
Oh, hot, yes. I agree on that.. =) Ok, Mr. CT, you got a terrible idea and so it was the result. =) No, I mean for the extractors you never use wood, there are quite consistent forces in play, but you can try to fabricate a small tool homemade. Get a piece of square bar, at least 30x30 mm, than cut 4 pieces (or more , depends on spacing of the column) and than you make a rectangle with one of the bars on each side passing under the wheel hub tied in with the spacing bars across on the ends. I suggest you weld one side and leave the other open for sliding in. Then you can attach only 2 arms of the extractor on each end, shich should be more than enough. I had the same problem with my R4. Actually the wheel is meshed with splines, so there is no need to tighten the nut very much, anyway with years and a bit of corrosion it gets stuck easily. The proper way is to fabricare a deep Y attachment for the extractor, but that involves more machining and cutting and maybe even welding. =) Cheers, keep up. It would be nice if I could send you a drawing though.
Hello! Thanks for all the great tips! I will give that a try this weekend. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =) R4...?
Stay with it CT! I’m still pulling for you. Pun intended!😉
Thanks man! HAHA! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
It's nice to see someone else have a hard time with vehicles! lol
HAHA! The struggle is real my friend! =) Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
the good ole times.. when things were made to last....... don't give up CT!!!
This is so true! I'm not giving up! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Just call it Bully like we call it in Germany. The haggerty magazine shows the Volkswagen 181 (The Thing) on its cover. Originally it was designed for our army forces , the "Bundeswehr". The soldiers called it "Kübelwagen". Greetings from germany where steering wheel and steering column were assembled inseparable :-)
HAHA! Yes it's a Bully for sure! =) Thanks for the fun facts! That's cool to know. I purchased a puller. Let's see if it works. Stay tuned for more! Thank you! =)
You cant complete a build with shouldn't be's and I can't believe it's. You neeed I'll get'er's and what's next's! Good luck and keep at it!
Hey Dan! Good advice sir! I will! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
You can download the pdf’s of all the old VW manuals on thesamba.com
I have them saved in iBooks on my phone and iPad! Makes for a quick reference...and they have the feel of the old ones visual oil stains and ALL! 👍
Hey Marci! That's good to know! Thank you! =)
A sky hook works best to remove steering wheels on a VW.
I would say with the amount of money you have spent on the parts and buying the van, you could have bought a better condition one. Looking at the rust holes on the van, it needs a ful restoration to make her fully dry and road worthy. Its going to cost a lot more for you. I wish you all the luck with it, but have you concidered looking for a less rusty one ?.
Hey Ian! I think you are correct. At the end of the day it's always cheaper to buy one that's already working. Although you will have to pay more up front. I like taking something broken, fixing it, bringing it back to life and learning along the way. Hopefully it won't break the bank. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
@@CTmoog I know it is the passion in you that keeps you going. You vision ther van on the road and you behind the wheel enjoying the drive. :).
@@ianallen2 Yes sir! =)
Hi CT you can put two or three pieces of wood in not to break or steel. Good effort anyway!!!
Hi Lucy! I appreciate that! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
in the book was a steering wheel puller imitate that . o take some old pieces of iron thin and thick agle - bud -and oveflapweld them together and try diverend settings before you start welding on the car. keep on going
Thanks Charlie! I will take a closer look at the manual tomorrow. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
with your knees you pull the steering wheel upwards, into the steering axle through the board you strike with a hammer so as not to bend the axle
That might work! Thanks for the advice! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
I saw a key way! Did you try pushing down instead of pulling up. There may be wedges inside that need to be removed?
Yes, there is a key way. Do you think it might be stuck?
@@CTmoog Possibly. It is an assembly! Your friend Ron
Try to take the watcher off from the wheel, the one is on top, try to see if it can move off.
Dude your content rocks!
Thanks man!
hey my friend is not easy no I'm sending you positive vibes to you Good luck, thank you.
Thank you so much my friend! I appreciate that! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
I love owners manuals! I own over 100 all years models and different countries oct1952 to a 1995 Mexican vw
WOW! Really? That's a lot of books!
portable ac unit in the bus would help. I am searching craigs right now but keep missing them.
YES! =)
pb blaster let it is then tension it then give it a hit with a hammer from below? hey in some ways its reassuring the steering wheel doesn't come off too easy :). Nice manuals too...
Good advice Rob! Thank you! Stay tuned!
PB blaster. Put the nut on flush with the top of the threads . A small block of wood . Put the wood on top of the nut and hit it with a hammer. That should help loosen my steering wheel and help break the rust free. Put the puller on there and as you are pulling hit the steering wheel with a hammer and or the pulley that will help cause vibration to break things looks maybe even hit the shaft not hard just enough to cause vibration
Hi CT !! I just checked your problem there should be a Nutt there if you did not take that of before so you have to remove that now. I saw now there is a blank shining washer or metal ring you have to remove Greeting HCS Stay cool man.
Ok, I will take another look this weekend. Thank you!
@@CTmoog Hi ! you are very welcome to take care greetings HCS
Hi CT I do really hope it solves your issue with the steering wheel. Greetings HCS.looking forwards to this Weekend.be interesting to watch that video. Greetings HCS
Amazing,,from indonesia 👋
Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Soak the shaft in release oil first ,use a support over the shaft to protect from ballooning out under the pressure,steel plate (not wood) would be safer ,you may need to apply heat but that would be a last resort...AWAIT FOLLOW UP VIDEO .....Good luck
Hey Paul! Great advice my friend! I will try that. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
On the front page of Hagerty is Logan Calkins driving a 181.😎
Yes, it's pretty cool! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Try hitting the board with a mallet from underneath while there’s pulling pressure on it. Tighten the board just enough but not too much as to break it. It might work? Lol
Ok, I'll give that a try! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Nice job dude and Yeah the steering wheel is very stuck to it.
Yes, it doesn't want to come off! I have a puller now so let's see what happens! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Yup, rap it under pressure,
as previously suggested. Progress. Plan to show progress in each video. Viewers are investing their time because they're interested in learning something, and is easiest when getting a visual. Watching someone fumble around for a half hour is a waste.
Just a little FYI.
Good point William! Thank you for the insight and tips! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Steering wheel 1 - CT 0, LOL Want me to come over to help? You'll get it. Damn right its hot. I was going to head out to wally, I didn't make it to my car and I was just dripping. I gave up and went back inside. It can wait until tonight.
Yes, I'm coming back for round two! Yes it's so hot!!!
pour some hot water on to the top it will expand the metal. Forget the wood you need the same bit but make it out of 4mm steel.
Good advice man! I will try that! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
@@CTmoog no worries, wait for the bang to it will make a noise ;)
You get it under tension then tap the puller bolt on the end.
Ok, I will try that! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
We like your design! Material wasn't up to the task
Thanks Matt! I thought I'd give it a try before spending $30 on a puller. I got one yesterday. Let's see if it works!
Hi dude nice to see you again
Great try from but I think there is a lock in the center of nute or maybe all steering coming out keep going don’t give up amazing video amazing ct
often helps with such conical tensions, a strong hammer blow on the shaft.😉
1:30 this seal is ok because it's german made .if you get whatever aftermarket it wouldn't last the half time the others lasted . New rubber has nothing to do with old one . If possible get a NOS one
Yes, the German parts are made to last! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Getting the right puller for this job might help .
Yes, I just picked up one this week. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Everyone have a moment of silence for the Volkswagen beetle... 😭.
#Volkswagen
Thank you! =)
(Vc é o cara... Só falta o final. 25.07.19)
They are tapered and they come off with some energy! Be mindful of that.
Thanks for the heads up. I will be careful. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Well as they say on the South “let’s get a bigger hammer”. Stay thirsty my friend.
I need a really big hammer! =) Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
hi, i'm from indonesia. sometimes I don't understand what you say. but I have seen all the videos that you uploaded and I understand what you are doing. I'm sure you can finish the project. can you take me there I am interested in learning and want to be like you if I could join you, I would be very happy for me I will always support you and always watch your videos. thank you I really want to join and meet you
Hello! Thank you so much for watching and supporting me! I really appreciate it! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
After getting tension on the board you gotta hit it with a hammer from underneath
Ok, I will try that! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
like everyone, get tension on it and tap the puller with a hammer
Hey Ron! I will give that a try! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
CT do you think that metal plate inside might be threaded? And if so, is there a notch where you could put a screwdriver and move it counterclockwise with a hammer. Just a thought God bless
Hey Jimmy! I'm not sure. I 'm going to check the manual tomorrow. Hopefully it has directions on how to do it. I think that slot is for the key that holds it in. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Check your manual first. That's why you bought it , right ? . You need a metal plate to pull against and not a piece of wood . 5 minutes in the manual will save you 30 minutes of frustration, or worse. But again, this is how we learn.Keep moving.
Good point! =) I guess I'm not use to having it. I will check again this weekend. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
How did u get it off? I’m doing mine ?
You havent failed, you just found out a way that doesnt work
Thanks David! I appreciate your positive outlook sir! Stay tuned!
Looks like there is a threaded washer holding the steering wheel on.....have you tried removing that?
Hey John, I take a closer look at it tomorrow. You might be right. Stay tuned for more.
Ok i new the puller setup wasn’t working. Get a 3 leg puller ... taht wood won’t hold a second with the pressure
Hey Sam! I picked up a new puller. Let's see what happens. Stay tuned! =)
CT yess,!! That’s good! Hopefully a 3 jaw leg puller.
The steering wheel sits so tight because it is there in place for 60 years. You could use a large bearing puller or build something similar using a steel plate. But make sure that the force is not applied to the plastic.
It may also help to put it under tension and just wait some days. Sometimes the steering wheel comes of after a few days.
Warming it up may also help. But be carefull not to melt the plastic.
Good advice sir! I'll try that! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Ct ,pegale con las palmas de tus manos en el borde del volante, yo hice asi y salió y lo hice en varios autos
Ok, I will try that! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Did you find a spring plate yet?
Not yet. Do you know where to find one?
@@CTmoog Thought I had one but I guess not.... I can straighten the one you have if you don't find one.
So you have that amazing manual and you didn’t use any it as a reference to remove the steering if? And if you did I was didn’t see it because I was skipping through the video to see something interesting, which never came. This and the last video sucked in my opinion. Quality over quantity my friend. I come to see progress on the build. Showing failure is great as long as you show success in the same video. And the last video was pointless. It was you filming a RUclips video of someone making a RUclips video on your bus. Surprise, we know the bus is rusty, we’ve been watching.
WOW! Tell me how you really feel! =) I can't please everyone all the time. I appreciate your input. Hopefully you'll stick around to see the process. More coming soon!
Well duh I’m going to stick around. I’m invested at this point. Plus I want to see the KRAMA!!! I’m just giving you my opinions to improve
Cool! I just picked up a puller today. I'll get this thing off in the next day or so. Stay tuned! =)
I think your bus may have been underwater for a while!
Hey Tolba! Where you been? I think you might be right! =) Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Here is how to get that steering wheel off without damage. ruclips.net/video/GbC50xRRnqE/видео.html
you forgotten to shock it whit a hammer
Good idea! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
1966 Volkswagen Bus Abandoned on magazine
Hey Tyson! Yes! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Alright
View #431 at 10:08 PM on 7/14/19 - NJ
Thanks John!
Не пробовал с низу молотком постучать по этой доске))
Put the other board u cut to big under that one so it’s doubled up
Good idea!
photos.app.goo.gl/tSTEky6zyUXPY94C7
Hi CT, This was at a VW show last year. I had a VW bus like this except it didn't have the popup roof. It was a camper bus with a sink, back fold down bed and the crank side windows. The engine blew up and had it replaced. Then sold it to a neighbor. Wish I kept it now plus my 65 bug and a few other vehicals i had🙁
OH YEA ! MAC VW411
YES! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Take a hammer and tap the puller bolt on the end.
Ok, I've give that a try. I picked up a puller. Let's see if it works. Stay tuned for more! Thank you! =)
no impact gun, it would save you a lot of grunt work
Hey Brian, it's on the wish list of tools I want to buy. Soon I hope! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
With metalschiene stabilce¿?
Yes, I picked up a puller so that should help. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
Nice🚖
Do you follow these guys, Mustie1, vwnut1967 , marcijunebug? These people may be able to help you on alot of questions on where you can find parts. They might even the parts you need, been watching for while. Keep up the good work! 👍 👍
Hey Bert! Yes, I watch all of them They are all great! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)
do you know that those pages won't stay white for long?LOL
No they won't! HAHA!