Brother Kenny, you're the best darn automotive repair educator I have ever met. You also strive for total perfection. You always make me laugh when you suggest that you are using Meg's toothbrush but that you'll put it back. You have a great sense of humor. I have always packed my wheelbearings the exact same way that you did yours even to include all of the extra grease. This was a valuable, well made video. I thank you and Meg too, for the toothbrush. LOL
I am surprised that the spring eye pivot bolts didn’t have a grease fitting. I would invest in some new bolts that have grease fittings. Makes the bushings last longer.
I bought a bearing packer about 20 years ago and never had to hand pack since ! Some trailers ive maintained had bearing buddy's ! Basically its just a cap with a grease zerk but makes life that much easier !"
That one was fighting you the whole way. Well that's how it goes for me. I may do it wrong, but I am not as critical removing the old grease. I wipe it out, I do clean the bearings with gas or diesel, pack them and put it back together. I always did use 90 weight gear grease. They say mixing greases is not good because they liquefy, I may be wrong again, but I call BS on that. Think about it, the thing gets so hot it liquefies anyway. Anyhow, thanks again for a good video, I always seem to learn something, your tips and tricks come in handy.
The "trick" for getting the inner bearing out is to leave the washer on as well. Also, if you're planning on reusing the old bearing with its matching cup, use a brass punch so one does not misshape the them.
I worked for a parts supplier and they recommended to me using marine grease on my front U-joints on my Dana 44. I had a dedicated grease gun with needle tip
Even if you use a bearing packer, it's still messy. Hand packing insures that everything is ok. I have many sets of jack stands, and the top of the tubular type fit the bearing caps on my old Chevys, instead of using a socket.
I remove those grease fittings from trailer axles. Only reason they are put on are to ensure a steady parts sales stream from guys constantly greasing away till they eventually blow out the seals and ruin the brake pads. Think about it……. Vehicles dont have and never did have grease fittings on axles so why does a trailer need them? Properly pack those wheel bearings and they’re good for a very long time.
I could tell the race was going to come by the angle of the punch when he was hitting it. I use an old piece of a wood broom handle to knock out bearings and seals.
Ive been watching your videos for years now and mostly find them interesting and informative. But this one i wondered if id accidently tuned into the comedy club. The way you treated those bearings to get them out then hitting the cages, i would not reuse these again after this. Im afraid for any newbys watching this and thinking this is acceptable procedure. Im sitting here shaking my head.
Wouldn’t the bearing race case being out of shape where into the bearing race and I thought that when sitting the bearing in you tightened them up tight and backed them off a preload them
Hey Kenny I hope you don't blow out the damaged bearing and chew out spindle on your road trip. cheaper to put in new bearings thanbe stuck on the road..cheap and nasty fix, I dont like it......
By me trailer bearings are very easy to do, you go to the parts store, and ask them for a golf 1 rear wheel bearing set, 2 bearings inner and outer, a lip seal, a nut, either nyloc, castellated or plain with the matching pressed steel locking collar, and a split pin, plus a new cap. Plus a bag of grease to fill them up, and you spend 15 minutes per side removing the old hub, knocking the bearings and seal out, then filling the new bearings and putting them in, along with the seal, and placing back in position. Light duty only, unbraked trailers for the most part, unless you get one with an actual brake, in which case you will be buying a set of VW golf 1 linings and drum as well, as that also is a standard thing. comes from the biggest and oldest manufacturer being Venter trailers, who started building them about the time VW introduced the golf into the country, and they used the stub axles from them, as it is a cheap and common part, so easy to get, and they used the whole thing for braked, and a simple inner socket for unbraked, to make a trailer suitable for up to 1000kg, and which was very easy to get certified, as they used parts with a certification already, making it easy. The cups never fit, so often the old ones go right back on, unless you are going to shrink them slightly to make them fit, or use brute force like there.
Great video!! I have old habits like yours too. Great filming too!! Good luck with your surgical procedure and hope Meg is back to her normal self!
Loved "don't care" Kenny! Way to express what you really think. And I agree with you. Used cotter pins are just fine with me.
I always used gasoline to wash the bearings. Works great since I'm not a smoker!
Brother Kenny, you're the best darn automotive repair educator I have ever met. You also strive for total perfection. You always make me laugh when you suggest that you are using Meg's toothbrush but that you'll put it back. You have a great sense of humor. I have always packed my wheelbearings the exact same way that you did yours even to include all of the extra grease.
This was a valuable, well made video. I thank you and Meg too, for the toothbrush. LOL
Great side eye moment 😊
I use the Lucas Marine grease for my Jeeps ball joints, steering components, u-joints etc. Need to grease the hubs on my trailer as well.
I am surprised that the spring eye pivot bolts didn’t have a grease fitting.
I would invest in some new bolts that have grease fittings.
Makes the bushings last longer.
The red grease that you took out was the Red&Tackey Lucas . We used it on our steel hauling trailer bearings with out an issue. FYI
He was worried about mixing different grease they sometimes liquify
red and tacky number 2 ?
NLA in the UK sadly ( it's ok , i have 6 tubes in my stock )
I bought a bearing packer about 20 years ago and never had to hand pack since ! Some trailers ive maintained had bearing buddy's ! Basically its just a cap with a grease zerk but makes life that much easier !"
That one was fighting you the whole way. Well that's how it goes for me. I may do it wrong, but I am not as critical removing the old grease. I wipe it out, I do clean the bearings with gas or diesel, pack them and put it back together. I always did use 90 weight gear grease. They say mixing greases is not good because they liquefy, I may be wrong again, but I call BS on that. Think about it, the thing gets so hot it liquefies anyway. Anyhow, thanks again for a good video, I always seem to learn something, your tips and tricks come in handy.
The "trick" for getting the inner bearing out is to leave the washer on as well. Also, if you're planning on reusing the old bearing with its matching cup, use a brass punch so one does not misshape the them.
Remove seal, clean bearings with gas, pack and reinstall. Always install new seals if you do want a roadside repair to pop up.
Excellent video. Thanks.
I worked for a parts supplier and they recommended to me using marine grease on my front U-joints on my Dana 44. I had a dedicated grease gun with needle tip
Sometimes these old metalic seals are a pain in the neck to remove...
I make life easy and just buy new bearings and seals through E-Trailor
Hello Mr Kenny hope y'all have a great day. Hey Luna 🎉🐕
Even if you use a bearing packer, it's still messy. Hand packing insures that everything is ok. I have many sets of jack stands, and the top of the tubular type fit the bearing caps on my old Chevys, instead of using a socket.
Easy way to pop the seal/ bearing out- instead of using a punch, poke it out with your hammer handle.
"HOT GREASE IS GOOD !!" [FRIES, CHICKEN, BEIGNETS, ETC]
The trailer break video was good
That the way my dad taught me
Oh-oh Kenny has a hammer🫣
Good luck with surgery
30:31 well that's good practice for good inspection of the rollers
THAT'S THE CORRECT WAY TO DO A COTTER KEY. KUDOS
Ye ole side eye. lol keep wrenching.
I would think a roll of paper towels would be a lot better than two nasty-ass rags
I remove those grease fittings from trailer axles. Only reason they are put on are to ensure a steady parts sales stream from guys constantly greasing away till they eventually blow out the seals and ruin the brake pads. Think about it……. Vehicles dont have and never did have grease fittings on axles so why does a trailer need them? Properly pack those wheel bearings and they’re good for a very long time.
I don't understand why you removed the bearing race. I only remove it when I am replace them.
It came out on him remember.
I could tell the race was going to come by the angle of the punch when he was hitting it.
I use an old piece of a wood broom handle to knock out bearings and seals.
Trailer grease recommended amount is half grease half air in the middle, too much and it will pop seals when hot.
Wow, you didn't use Mrs Wrenching toothbrush haha
She would kick his butt.
Will diesel or kerosene work?
My goodness Kenny don't you have a parts washer
Not many have those at home.
I had a parts washer at home but she quit!
😢
Ive been watching your videos for years now and mostly find them interesting and informative. But this one i wondered if id accidently tuned into the comedy club. The way you treated those bearings to get them out then hitting the cages, i would not reuse these again after this. Im afraid for any newbys watching this and thinking this is acceptable procedure. Im sitting here shaking my head.
You load the bearing from the small end!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How to screw up a wheel bearing and take three times as long to do the job.
My neighbor found out the hard way there's two types of grease high pressure and high speed
What happened to learn the hard way?
@jthonn high pressure is for a grease gun for fittings like ball joints and it doesn't hold up well to temperature and speed and they burn up
@@timferguson8654 Thanks
Wouldn’t the bearing race case being out of shape where into the bearing race and I thought that when sitting the bearing in you tightened them up tight and backed them off a preload them
It all kind of straightens up when you put it together.
Hey Kenny I hope you don't blow out the damaged bearing and chew out spindle on your road trip. cheaper to put in new bearings thanbe stuck on the road..cheap and nasty fix, I dont like it......
Why is the inside face of that drum shiny-scored like a worn brake disc? Sorry- my trailers are all light duty aka no brakes.
By me trailer bearings are very easy to do, you go to the parts store, and ask them for a golf 1 rear wheel bearing set, 2 bearings inner and outer, a lip seal, a nut, either nyloc, castellated or plain with the matching pressed steel locking collar, and a split pin, plus a new cap. Plus a bag of grease to fill them up, and you spend 15 minutes per side removing the old hub, knocking the bearings and seal out, then filling the new bearings and putting them in, along with the seal, and placing back in position. Light duty only, unbraked trailers for the most part, unless you get one with an actual brake, in which case you will be buying a set of VW golf 1 linings and drum as well, as that also is a standard thing. comes from the biggest and oldest manufacturer being Venter trailers, who started building them about the time VW introduced the golf into the country, and they used the stub axles from them, as it is a cheap and common part, so easy to get, and they used the whole thing for braked, and a simple inner socket for unbraked, to make a trailer suitable for up to 1000kg, and which was very easy to get certified, as they used parts with a certification already, making it easy. The cups never fit, so often the old ones go right back on, unless you are going to shrink them slightly to make them fit, or use brute force like there.
If they are really old or worn, I pretty much do that, but if they are good, you save a few bucks by reusing the old stuff where you can.
That bearing is no good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SHOULD of CLEANED all of parts first .then you dirty the parts again.
Just get your rags from work and when they get dirty, take them bake and let the company clean them!!!!!!