Thanks for the video. One thing I would raise though. The filament removal steps are, IMO not the best and I think this is potentially a good example of unquestioned "copy" behaviour. Personally I would instead recommend Dave Crocker's (the Duet 3D guy) approach. When removing filament heat to about 2/3rd's extrusion temp. So if removing e.g. PETG heat to about 160. Then remove the filament by giving it a firm tug. The filament comes out nice clean a bit like when doing a cold pull (but easier because it has been nicely heated to a temp where it will release but is unlikely to snap off). When you heat to extrusion temp, you leave a blob of filament in the extruder, which is messy and can lead to other problems. One of the worse problems that can occur is if you then need to load a higher temp filament, for example PC. You can end-up overheating and annealing the residual filament such that it ruins the nozzle. This is a very common problem and the cause of many a partial clogged nozzle and is almost impossible to clear. Keeping the nozzle clean surely has to be better.
ABS is likely going to be the most flame retardant filament concerning ease-of-use to flame-retardance. You could also try PETG, or some of the higher-difficulty / more expensive filaments, although most basic consumer machines likely won't be able to print such.
Thanks for the video. One thing I would raise though. The filament removal steps are, IMO not the best and I think this is potentially a good example of unquestioned "copy" behaviour. Personally I would instead recommend Dave Crocker's (the Duet 3D guy) approach. When removing filament heat to about 2/3rd's extrusion temp. So if removing e.g. PETG heat to about 160. Then remove the filament by giving it a firm tug. The filament comes out nice clean a bit like when doing a cold pull (but easier because it has been nicely heated to a temp where it will release but is unlikely to snap off). When you heat to extrusion temp, you leave a blob of filament in the extruder, which is messy and can lead to other problems. One of the worse problems that can occur is if you then need to load a higher temp filament, for example PC. You can end-up overheating and annealing the residual filament such that it ruins the nozzle. This is a very common problem and the cause of many a partial clogged nozzle and is almost impossible to clear. Keeping the nozzle clean surely has to be better.
Excuse me. Which machine are you using here?
What model are you using here?
But to calibrate it should be programmed on the g code to makes it easy.
First view and comment! This is a great video, thanks for the tips and help with setting up for newbies!
Thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
just in time. i struglled with a couple of these points
Hi. Great material! I'd like to ask which material do you recommend as the most fire-retardant one?
ABS is likely going to be the most flame retardant filament concerning ease-of-use to flame-retardance. You could also try PETG, or some of the higher-difficulty / more expensive filaments, although most basic consumer machines likely won't be able to print such.
@@benjamin_f_gates ABS, as it is oil based, is actually one of the least flame safe, others like PLAs and some PETG's do not burn, only melt