Why do people not show examples of errors instead of trying to explain them? It's much easier to see a side by side comparison. This is one of my biggest pet peeves for instructional videos.
Great Vid Ive recommended this Vid to so many people. Only improvement would be really good to see some close ups of the prints though, maybe 1 top score print and 1 with issues to show what to look for.
Great video, thanks! Not sure if the order you presented these tests in is the order you should run them. Is there an order these test prints should be run? I have a new Artillery Sidewinder X1 (V4) and am not having good luck with my initial prints. If you are testing a new printer, should you run specific tests first and address any issues before running other tests? Do changes for a single test have affects on the other tests? What about using some of the multi-calibration models available to make these types of tests? Thingiverse things like "*MICRO* All In One 3D printer test" or its cousins. I guess I can see where using a single model for a specific test could be beneficial, however, when you make changes to help fix one issue, those changes could be affecting other areas of your print. Seems nice to be able to print a single model that allows you to see specific changes and how those changes affect other aspects. Saves time, plastic and $$$. Appreciate any comments.
Michael Whinnery , It’s all good. Yes print a multi test model. Even then, print it again rotated 90 degrees on the build plate and observe and measure the effect of things like : - the overhang layer orientation might likely be stronger one way and maybe warp less the other? - the cooling fan duct breeze direction on the overhang could have direct effect on the warpage of a part. Fitting parts together into an assembly that maintains dimensional accuracy can be a challenge. We’re learning. This series of test just breaks down individual properties so each might be understood by itself. For example, bed leveling might merit it’s own test. It may be more filament efficient to check any number of suspect subsystems without print the whole multi model over and over. Cooling of overhangs as explained here is significant factor in model fidelity. Good explanation. How a printer, filament cooling or software handles bridging, extruding in thin air, is well worthwhile understanding. It’s all good. : )
This is what I don't understand about this video. I am coming here as a noob, not knowing what all these terms mean. Talking about the effects is kinda abstract so choosing printed models that scored highest isn't helpful at all. It would be much better video if you chose 1s or 2s or at least included photos if you can't replicate those effects.
Your horizontal surface test is actually quite poor, how do you give it a 5? there is holes through the surface. You either need to up your extrusion or add more top layers.
Because we are only scoring based on the area we are judging. In the parts that are not under extruded, it's a really goo surface finish, but the underextrusion isn't related to slice settings, it's a mechanical fault in the extruder assembly. The torque and pressure provided by the extruder causes it to underextruxe frequently, and post video I disassembled it, cleaned it out, and stretched the spring slightly to adjust the tension. The proper thing would be to redesign or purchase a higher quality extruder with a better tensioning mechanism, but you work with what you have.
Don't get me wrong Alec, great informative video and covers lots of problem areas. Just threw me off when I saw that horrible top layer and then you said it was a 5. Would have helped to add in the video that you were having extrusion issues hence the holes in the top layer. My OCD always gets the best of me lol. Keep up the great videos!
The Horizontal Finish Test does not look so great, with visible holes on the flat surface (@2:42), but you gave it a "perfect" score of 5!!!! I don't really understand!!
Is there a general layer height we can use for these tests or do certain tests show faults better with a certain layer height ? Im guessing tests like the Z wobble test will be ok with a higher layer height and the Negative space test would need a smaller layer height! Great video.Looking forward to trying these tests tomorrow, I'm relatively new to 3D printing and its going well but theres still plenty of room to improve my prints lol...
Regarding that stringing test... To me, it looks like the drooping horizontal strands are pulling the ever so taller getting vertical posts together ( evidence being the the layer where the horizontal bridging starts being less wide than the top final one! ) thus must likely emphasizing the drooping - Maybe consider redoing the model with a different tower geometry not susceptible to getting pulled togehter?
In my opinion the last one is not suitable to check the squareness. A squareness check needs two long perpendicular (straight) edges, not 4 small bricks. Print a 100x100x4-5mm square or an L shape instead. Take in consideration the corner inaccuracies and the elephant foot when you measure. You can file or sand the bumps for example.
The horizontal and vertical surface finish both had huge visual indicators of under extrusion and looks pretty terrible yet he gave them a 5...I'm confused why.
@@creazinstincz7122 it's just a matter of Creality printers not having the best extruder assemblies, but have the potential to run really well. After the video I readjusted the screws and tightened things down in an attempt to apply more pressure into the filament, which got rid of any underextrusion and really cleaned up every print. The horizontal surface finish looked great besides the underextrusion, so with that solved its an easy 5.
Alec Richter never said the printer was at fault here. I have both ender 3 and ender 5 and they’re doing as good as a prusa. The one at fault is the channel providing bad info
im glad i watched this video, i had a tevo tarantula pro that came with a bearing for the lead screw but the printer had bent extrusions an i had to send it back an i ended up getting a ender 5 and it doesnt have the bearing at the top for the lead screw and i was literally getting ready to print one for it. but i have a question. would it be the same with the ender 5 cause the bed is at the top from the start an drops as it goes down so would the bearing on the lead screw mess with it in the same way?
Im using Cura and I don't seem to have any Extruder steps per mm or at least idk how to look for it x.x also my retraction test... the hairs are fine BUT the pillars are bubbly bumpy and snap off like.. wtf is this weird ringing.
What does the resonance test, show? I don't see a section in your blog that covers this. About to run the test for these for the anycubic mega zero. Beginner and noob here but i'm learning and building a solid foundation on the basics
Id like to say this video was helpful, but whos coming here with perfect "5.0" prints? you should have shown us what parts that scored 1,2 and 3 looked like, then we could say " yeah, thats my problem, i need to fix my ". I know i have calibration issues, but i dont know whats causing them exactly.. this didnt help much
That's a bad color to use for video. I can't see any of the detail. I'd give that bridging test a 5. There's no way the top two, as you said, be able to support the next layer, so it's not the settings fault. It's the nozzle diameter and layer height
Hi All I am Engineer George, I am passionate on this for a year to be able to print versatile Products. Can someone advice economic & best model for small Business?
We just added a link to all of the calibration prints by Make: in the description!
Why do people not show examples of errors instead of trying to explain them? It's much easier to see a side by side comparison. This is one of my biggest pet peeves for instructional videos.
I completely agree - a couple examples of failures and some recommendation for solutions (bonus points if they fix and re-print to show progress)
Because then you have to sabotage your machine and fix? Go to reddit if you want to see bad prints
@@urgamecshk then why didnt he show it in the video instead of trying to explain how it looks. he is after all trying to make a video explaining it.
I'd also say that there's way too much talking head!
Great Vid Ive recommended this Vid to so many people. Only improvement would be really good to see some close ups of the prints though, maybe 1 top score print and 1 with issues to show what to look for.
I guess we now know what Wolverine did before he joined X Men.
I subbed when this guy Flexed his Mungo Jerry style in this day and age.
The best calibration prints video I’ve seen yet.
Very clear and concise.
Thank you so much. These prints really helps to my new printer's calibration
I'll be trying these today.
Great video, thanks! Not sure if the order you presented these tests in is the order you should run them. Is there an order these test prints should be run? I have a new Artillery Sidewinder X1 (V4) and am not having good luck with my initial prints. If you are testing a new printer, should you run specific tests first and address any issues before running other tests? Do changes for a single test have affects on the other tests?
What about using some of the multi-calibration models available to make these types of tests? Thingiverse things like "*MICRO* All In One 3D printer test" or its cousins. I guess I can see where using a single model for a specific test could be beneficial, however, when you make changes to help fix one issue, those changes could be affecting other areas of your print. Seems nice to be able to print a single model that allows you to see specific changes and how those changes affect other aspects. Saves time, plastic and $$$. Appreciate any comments.
I was hoping g to read an Expert reply to a great question
Michael Whinnery ,
It’s all good. Yes print a multi test model. Even then, print it again rotated 90 degrees on the build plate and observe and measure the effect of things like :
- the overhang layer orientation might likely be stronger one way and maybe warp less the other?
- the cooling fan duct breeze direction on the overhang could have direct effect on the warpage of a part.
Fitting parts together into an assembly that maintains dimensional accuracy can be a challenge.
We’re learning.
This series of test just breaks down individual properties so each might be understood by itself. For example, bed leveling might merit it’s own test. It may be more filament efficient to check any number of suspect subsystems without print the whole multi model over and over.
Cooling of overhangs as explained here is significant factor in model fidelity. Good explanation. How a printer, filament cooling or software handles bridging, extruding in thin air, is well worthwhile understanding.
It’s all good.
: )
Thanks for this video, guys. I'll be doing some tuning soon.
great video indeed.
was not aware of a few
thanx a mil for posting !
This is some of the best content y'all have made, thank you!
It would be really useful if you showed the scale of results for each test, eg. a picture prints scoring a 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.
This is what I don't understand about this video. I am coming here as a noob, not knowing what all these terms mean. Talking about the effects is kinda abstract so choosing printed models that scored highest isn't helpful at all. It would be much better video if you chose 1s or 2s or at least included photos if you can't replicate those effects.
that would require actual effort though, instead of just picking some test prints out of the trash and talking into a camera for a couple of minutes
Thank you very informative in diagnosing print quality issues.
Your horizontal surface test is actually quite poor, how do you give it a 5? there is holes through the surface. You either need to up your extrusion or add more top layers.
Maybe it's a 5 out of 100 ? That would actually fit quite accurate then.
Because we are only scoring based on the area we are judging. In the parts that are not under extruded, it's a really goo surface finish, but the underextrusion isn't related to slice settings, it's a mechanical fault in the extruder assembly. The torque and pressure provided by the extruder causes it to underextruxe frequently, and post video I disassembled it, cleaned it out, and stretched the spring slightly to adjust the tension.
The proper thing would be to redesign or purchase a higher quality extruder with a better tensioning mechanism, but you work with what you have.
Don't get me wrong Alec, great informative video and covers lots of problem areas. Just threw me off when I saw that horrible top layer and then you said it was a 5. Would have helped to add in the video that you were having extrusion issues hence the holes in the top layer. My OCD always gets the best of me lol. Keep up the great videos!
@@Richter3D They have spring cups as well that increase the spring tension. Thats what I printed for my Ender 3 Pro and it helped a lot.
can you do a video on the list of the most important calibration that is important for 3d printer from worst to best
The Horizontal Finish Test does not look so great, with visible holes on the flat surface (@2:42), but you gave it a "perfect" score of 5!!!! I don't really understand!!
Like the video.
Would like to know a few setting:
1. Layer height?
2. Infill?
3. Speed?
4. Perimeters?
5. Filament?
Thanks
Justin
Wish you would have shown more of the part you are talking about - some of the prints you didn't show anything.
Videos without examples annoy the crap out of me.
This is a fantastic video!
Great walkthrough :-)
Thanks for sharing :-)
Is there a general layer height we can use for these tests or do certain tests show faults better with a certain layer height ? Im guessing tests like the Z wobble test will be ok with a higher layer height and the Negative space test would need a smaller layer height!
Great video.Looking forward to trying these tests tomorrow, I'm relatively new to 3D printing and its going well but theres still plenty of room to improve my prints lol...
I've seen extrusion calibration done both hot and cold which is right, I've done both methods and get different numbers at same steps per mm
Thanks I'm a noob and I sure hooe some of the helps me out
Regarding that stringing test... To me, it looks like the drooping horizontal strands are pulling the ever so taller getting vertical posts together ( evidence being the the layer where the horizontal bridging starts being less wide than the top final one! ) thus must likely emphasizing the drooping - Maybe consider redoing the model with a different tower geometry not susceptible to getting pulled togehter?
that a good video. thank you and good weekend
In my opinion the last one is not suitable to check the squareness. A squareness check needs two long perpendicular (straight) edges, not 4 small bricks. Print a 100x100x4-5mm square or an L shape instead. Take in consideration the corner inaccuracies and the elephant foot when you measure. You can file or sand the bumps for example.
Each of your prints looks like they have under extrusion...
The horizontal and vertical surface finish both had huge visual indicators of under extrusion and looks pretty terrible yet he gave them a 5...I'm confused why.
Ender Gaming yeah it’s weird. Really bad vide
@@creazinstincz7122 it's just a matter of Creality printers not having the best extruder assemblies, but have the potential to run really well. After the video I readjusted the screws and tightened things down in an attempt to apply more pressure into the filament, which got rid of any underextrusion and really cleaned up every print. The horizontal surface finish looked great besides the underextrusion, so with that solved its an easy 5.
Alec Richter never said the printer was at fault here. I have both ender 3 and ender 5 and they’re doing as good as a prusa. The one at fault is the channel providing bad info
@@creazinstincz7122 I know that you didn't say it was at fault, but as the person that worked with that specific printer, it /was/ at fault.
what about in the case or large dual lead screw machines? mine came with a bearing on the end of either z axis lead screws.
im glad i watched this video, i had a tevo tarantula pro that came with a bearing for the lead screw but the printer had bent extrusions an i had to send it back an i ended up getting a ender 5 and it doesnt have the bearing at the top for the lead screw and i was literally getting ready to print one for it. but i have a question. would it be the same with the ender 5 cause the bed is at the top from the start an drops as it goes down so would the bearing on the lead screw mess with it in the same way?
Im using Cura and I don't seem to have any Extruder steps per mm or at least idk how to look for it x.x also my retraction test... the hairs are fine BUT the pillars are bubbly bumpy and snap off like.. wtf is this weird ringing.
Is there a particular order that these tests are best done in?
What does the resonance test, show? I don't see a section in your blog that covers this. About to run the test for these for the anycubic mega zero. Beginner and noob here but i'm learning and building a solid foundation on the basics
Question. If I’m printing 2 parts in pla and need it to be strong. Should I do both at the same time or one at a time.
where can i get those test files?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755063/files
Bro looks like Hans from Frozen.
What settings on cura do you have for cleaner retractions?
Can these be printed simultaneously?
What no links to test files here in a link.... bad form.
Just posted them in the description - thanks for the heads up!
good god those burns
I give that first print a 3
Id like to say this video was helpful, but whos coming here with perfect "5.0" prints? you should have shown us what parts that scored 1,2 and 3 looked like, then we could say " yeah, thats my problem, i need to fix my ". I know i have calibration issues, but i dont know whats causing them exactly.. this didnt help much
Alec, my CR10S comes from the factory with bearings on the top of the lead screws... Should I take them off?
Ben E. Brady idk
I believe Cr10s one has sufficient play in it to avoid binding
PS: I also have a Cr10s
I printed with and without didn't matter on my CR10s except for resonance
Negative space = OPENINGS
Is that a standard Ender 3 ?
That's a bad color to use for video. I can't see any of the detail. I'd give that bridging test a 5. There's no way the top two, as you said, be able to support the next layer, so it's not the settings fault. It's the nozzle diameter and layer height
wasnt this guy from frozen
slow printing removes (almost) all of these issues yet who has the time to print at 5mm/min?
Hi All I am Engineer George, I am passionate on this for a year to be able to print versatile Products. Can someone advice economic & best model for small Business?
1st step, one a 3D printer
hm hm hm... "Squareness test" without chamfered edges... that means ...
Useful but showing failed vs success would be even better.
clicky switchs are fuckin annoying
Wtf is that facial hair..
Terrible video. "Here is the problem, oh not with this one. This one is perfect. *Shows terrible print*"